BKD

First time to Krakow in March. Should we stay in Old Town or in Kazmierz? Kazmierz sounds kind of interesting, artsy, night life, etc. Would appreciate some insight.

Christina

It's not as convenient to the other areas of Krakow where you are likely to want to be and things you want to see, that's all. I didn't really know it was a place with a lot of hotels, actually, I only visited one day when I was staying in the main center of Krakow. It took a while to get there, also, I know I took the bus but I forget the full logistics. But it was far enough away that I took the bus rather than walking.

It might be fine for you if you like what you read and you understand the logistics and transportation issues.

jomagpie

I was just there this past October. My bf and I stayed in the Kazimierz area. Since this was mid-October, the area was pretty quiet, although at night a lot of the bars were quite full with mostly locals. Old Town was beautiful, but I'm glad we stayed in Kazimierz because Old Town was just too touristy and the bars and restos didn't have a nice local feel to them.

Are you guys young travellers, or older? What kind of things are you interested in? We chose this area specifically for the nightlife (dark, indie, sometimes divey bars).

I suggest you use this guide when you get there: http://www.inyourpocket.com/poland/krakow

Lots of good suggestions and it's free.

jomagpie

I posted the same time as Christina. Just commenting on her post: It was about a 15min walk to Old Town (or quick tram ride), if you don't mind walking that, then it was no problem. If you're interested in viewing Podgroze area and the Schindler Factory, then Kazimierz is closer (across the river).

There's lots of apartment-hotels in the area. Have a look at www.booking.com.

Ozarksbill

Likely old city is a better location (SAS Radisson was our hotel) but do see the Kazimierz area, cemetery, also a side trip to Auschwitz. See comments on Poland Tour Photos and other Poland postings. Maybe jomagpie is right about less noise in other side of river. But I don't recall any noise at all.
Bill in Boston

Pegontheroad

I loved the old city. Lots of tourists, but then I'm a tourist too.

adrienne

I've stayed in the old city (within 2 blocks of the main square) twice and loved it. I enjoyed going out at night and sitting in the square with a glass of wine, watching all the activity and being in the midst of activity. But you could do that and stay in Kazimierz as well if that suits you better.

BKD

Jomagpie, well depends how you define older.... We'd like to think of ourselves as young but I suppose since we are north of 50 you may think otherwise. However we are somewhat adventuresome and tend to seek out less touristy, more local places particularly to eat, drink, listen to music, etc. Although we are obviously tourists we like to see places as locals do. We are definitely "cooler" than our children, which we don't quite understand.

It sounds like there is a split vote on where to stay. It sounds like it may be better to stay near the square but eat, drink and hangout in Kazmierz. Btw, we do like divey bars; we met in one of the diviest and have been married for 23 years!

Thanks to all. Recommendations for hotels, restaurants, watering holes, and music clubs in the jazz or piano bar variety will be most appreciated.

jomagpie

Bar suggestions in Kazimierz:

Propaganda Bar (communist decor, great punk/rock music, quite divey)
Alchemia (dark, old bar, I think somewhat of an "institution" in Kazimierz, outside seating looking out onto Plac Nowy if a nice day)
There was another one with a Godfather decor, cheesy yes, but great beer selection and quite popular.

I'm jealous! So much great beer in Poland, and I'm not talking about Zywiec.

Do have a look at the In Your Pocket guide link I gave above. I printed it out before we left and it was pretty much our bar and restaurant bible.

Oh and you HAVE to get zapiekanka in Plac Nowy (Kazimierz)and kielbasa from the purple van sausage man by Hala Targowa (closed on Sundays; we sadly made the trek on a Sunday to find it empty, so we had to go back the next day). See this link for both: http://tastytrix.blogspot.com/2011/0...e-tale-of.html

Ozarksbill

I think I should add this about Kazimierz from my memory. Definitely would walk through the old Jewish cemetery letting your imagination roam about this once being a thriving Jewish community across the river from Krakow. A few years ago we dined at Artistic Cafe in Hotel Alef on Ul which was the meeting place for Schindler and his family and was also frequented by Spielberg during the filming of the story. In fact celebrated my birthday there with breast of chicken in raisin almond sauce, roasted potatoes, shredded carrots, plus cake and chocolates. And now I hear the Factory not far away is open to visitors?
Bill in Boston

adrienne

<< And now I hear the Factory not far away is open to visitors? >>

Bill - The Krakow Under the Occupation Museum in the former Schindler factory administration building is a fabulous museum! Not to be missed. I think it opened about 1.5 years ago. When I return to Krakow this museum is one of the first things I'll do again. It re-creates war-time Krakow with replicas of streets, railway waiting room, ghetto wall, and many video screens (in Polish and English) telling survivors' stories, old photos, and lots of sounds throughout.

We had a private guide for Kazimierz and Podgorze and it was a wonderful experience. The only down side was that we were there during Rosh Hashanah and the synagogues were closed except for Isaac's Synagogue.

BKD

Jomagpie and Bill, thanks for the recommendations. Adrienne, how did get your guide? Do you have contact info for the guide?

adrienne

BKD - her name is Marta and she will do either a half day or full day tour. We booked her for a full day. In the ghetto we saw the 3 major churches, 1 synagogue, walked around the area, Podgorze, went to lunch at a restaurant she recommended with good food and very inexpensive. Then went into the main area of Krakow and drove around (my friend didn't walk well so we limited our walking), dropped off my friend and Marta and I went to the University and Franciscan church.

I had given her a very long list of things I wanted to see and when we met she laughed and said that no one had ever given her such a long list!

Another day Marta and I went to see the wooden churches outside Krakow which I really enjoyed but it was a long day as the churches are not close to Krakow.

Marta's email is:
[email protected]

If you want to say I recommended you then tell her it was the woman she took to the wooden churches.