Hi Parosblue,

It's several years since I've been to Koufonissi, so I can't help you with hotels, but I like the small-island atmosphere similar to that of Antiparos. There are several nice beaches strung along the coast east of Chora, culminating in Pori, abut 45 minutes walk as I recall. In season there are also caiques to Kato Koufonissi.

Combining Naxos with Koufonissi is very practical, since you will have to go there to catch Express Skopelitis anyway. If you want to stay in the beach area, there are lots of hotels in Agia Anna and Agios Prokopios, but be aware that few are actually on the beach. Personally I prefer to stay at Agios Georgios (St George) and take the bus to Agios Prokopios or Plaka beaches. There are many nice hotels in St George. I stay at Hotel Argo which is clean and reasonably priced.

One of the pleasures of Naxos is its wonderful chora, with many shops and tavernas in the winding passageways below the kastro, along the harbour, and in the square. Stay in St George, and it's an easy 10 minute walk — if you stay in the beach area you will have to take the bus, which is sometimes very, and I mean very, crowded in the evenings. Of course if you are looking for quiet you could just stay in the beach area and eat in the tavernas there. Naxos is a family-oriented island, and seldom, if ever, gets raucous.

Thanks Heimdall - I did hope you'd reply - I credit you with drawing us to Antiparos. We had done a day trips on the ferry from Paros before, but it wasn't until we stayed on the island that it became a favorite place. As to Naxos - we have only day tripped there as well. Your idea of staying at Agios George makes sense for us as we love meandering around the chora. I'll check out Argo. We did think the beach there seemed pretty packed and noisy, but we were walking on the section near town I think. I like taking the bus, but since it's such a big island, I'm thinking a car might be worthwhile. Are there little inland villages to visit - similar to Lefkes? Nice beaches on the far side of the island? The sound of water lapping over pebbles is more our style.

Hi again,

St George Beach does get crowded in high season, especially the section closest to town. It's popular for families with young children, as the sea slopes off gently and the water is a bit warmer in its sheltered position. I like St George for the evenings, but take the bus to Plaka or Ag Prokopios to swim. If you ask where, you can catch the bus as it passes behind St George on the way to the beaches, so you don't have to walk into town to the bus station. You will need to buy tickets in advance, though.

Naxos has a much larger interior than Paros, with several beautiful mountain villages, including Filoti and Apeiranthos to mention just a couple. That's one point where Naxos beats Paros, IMO. If you rent a car you could see them, and even take the route to Moutsouna on the remote east coast, and up to Appollonas, a small port on the northern tip of the island. Some of the mountain roads on Naxos aren't for the feint of heart.

I would recommend renting a car for a day or two for a trip into the mountains, and maybe to visit some of the hard-to-reach beaches south of Plaka. If you stay in St George, check with the hotel to see if they have guest parking. I believe Argo does, but I wouldn't swear to it. If you stay out at one of the beach resorts parking may be easier, but you will have difficulty finding somewhere to leave the car if you drive into Naxos Town in the evenings. There is a parking lot by the town hall that gets filled fairly quickly.