Karen and Penny's great Ireland adventure (trip report)
Jul 11th, 2004, 02:38 PM
#1
Karen and Penny's great Ireland adventure (trip report)
A friend and I (two women, 40+...no need to say how much plus!) just returned from a fabulous 10 days in beautiful, friendly, thoroughly delightful (but rather rainy!) Ireland. We rented a car at Shannon Airport and set off for Galway (3 nights), Dublin (2 nights), Kilkenny/Rock of Cashel (1 night), Cobh/Kinsale (1 night), Killarney (2 nights), and Bunratty (1 night). A few highlights...
Day 1 (Tuesday, Jun 29): Arrived at Shannon about 2 hours late (10 a.m.) because our plane from Baltimore had been delayed the previous evening. Picked up our rental car from Thrifty and got under way as quickly as possible. Although we had pre-purchased the CDW insurance, we ended up springing for an extra 15 Euros per day (aarrgghh!) for full coverage. I didn't realize that the CDW wasn't already full coverage, but the way the woman explained it, we'd have a 900E deductible on damages, and theft was not covered at all. I was not happy about the extra expense, but Penny and I agonized over a cup of tea and finally agreed it was worth it for the peace of mind. Also, they didn't have the size car we had requested, so they offered a free upgrade... which I turned down rather vehemently after having heard all the talk here on the board about how narrow the roads are (and was glad I did - the roads are INDEED narrow, but more on that later).
We set off for the Cliffs of Moher with only a few fits and starts with the car. Roads are well marked, pointing you to the next town (or one farther along), although the route number is not always given. We only got lost once or twice and rarely encountered heavy traffic, except in cities. I did the driving; Penny navigated. It worked out well - only once did I nearly get us killed, although several times the left-hand mirror was in serious jeopardy.
The Cliffs were beautiful and well worth the slight detour. Although it was rather overcast with occasional bouts of drizzle, at least the cliffs weren't covered in fog! We hiked up to the little castle at the overlook by the visitors' center and walked up the other side (to the left), as well. After about 50 pictures each (ok, maybe only 30 each), we headed for the Burren (with lots of stops for more pictures). We had lunch in Doolin at Gus O'Connor's Pub - great mushroom soup. And I managed to snag an ice cream cone (the first of many!) just down the street. Try the soft ice cream with a Flake (a stick of Cadbury chocolate). The ice cream, by the way, was the best bargain in Ireland - I got a cone at one place for just 80 cents (without the Flake, which was usually only an extra 20 cents). What a deal! Yum!
It was at the Dunguaire Castle, as we were nearing Galway, that we had our near-miss in the car. We had driven past the castle and decided we wanted to go back for... yes, a picture (or two). I pulled off the road, turned around, and when I pulled back out there were no cars in either direction. I went into auto-pilot and cut across to the right lane - and just moments later two cars came around a curve heading straight for me, chicken style. YIKES! I think Penny nearly had an accident of her own (don't tell her I told you). Fortunately, I managed to swerve over into the left lane in time (it wasn't really terribly close, but it was still a bit unnerving). After that, we were eager to arrive in Galway and get some sleep. We stayed at Westpoint B&B, kind of on the outskirts. Dinner was at Kitty O'Shea's, a mile and a half walk in rain and gale-force winds or, as our B&B hostess told us, "just a little way down the road... turn left at the top of the street" (an expression I had trouble with, because the "top" might be downhill from where you were at the time, but evidently it refers to the "end" of whatever stretch you're talking about). The B&B was quite nice, although I'd rather have been closer to town. Tomorrow... Connemara. To be continued... (Feel free to ask questions - I'll try to answer as I go along.)
Karen
Day 1 (Tuesday, Jun 29): Arrived at Shannon about 2 hours late (10 a.m.) because our plane from Baltimore had been delayed the previous evening. Picked up our rental car from Thrifty and got under way as quickly as possible. Although we had pre-purchased the CDW insurance, we ended up springing for an extra 15 Euros per day (aarrgghh!) for full coverage. I didn't realize that the CDW wasn't already full coverage, but the way the woman explained it, we'd have a 900E deductible on damages, and theft was not covered at all. I was not happy about the extra expense, but Penny and I agonized over a cup of tea and finally agreed it was worth it for the peace of mind. Also, they didn't have the size car we had requested, so they offered a free upgrade... which I turned down rather vehemently after having heard all the talk here on the board about how narrow the roads are (and was glad I did - the roads are INDEED narrow, but more on that later).
We set off for the Cliffs of Moher with only a few fits and starts with the car. Roads are well marked, pointing you to the next town (or one farther along), although the route number is not always given. We only got lost once or twice and rarely encountered heavy traffic, except in cities. I did the driving; Penny navigated. It worked out well - only once did I nearly get us killed, although several times the left-hand mirror was in serious jeopardy.
The Cliffs were beautiful and well worth the slight detour. Although it was rather overcast with occasional bouts of drizzle, at least the cliffs weren't covered in fog! We hiked up to the little castle at the overlook by the visitors' center and walked up the other side (to the left), as well. After about 50 pictures each (ok, maybe only 30 each), we headed for the Burren (with lots of stops for more pictures). We had lunch in Doolin at Gus O'Connor's Pub - great mushroom soup. And I managed to snag an ice cream cone (the first of many!) just down the street. Try the soft ice cream with a Flake (a stick of Cadbury chocolate). The ice cream, by the way, was the best bargain in Ireland - I got a cone at one place for just 80 cents (without the Flake, which was usually only an extra 20 cents). What a deal! Yum!
It was at the Dunguaire Castle, as we were nearing Galway, that we had our near-miss in the car. We had driven past the castle and decided we wanted to go back for... yes, a picture (or two). I pulled off the road, turned around, and when I pulled back out there were no cars in either direction. I went into auto-pilot and cut across to the right lane - and just moments later two cars came around a curve heading straight for me, chicken style. YIKES! I think Penny nearly had an accident of her own (don't tell her I told you). Fortunately, I managed to swerve over into the left lane in time (it wasn't really terribly close, but it was still a bit unnerving). After that, we were eager to arrive in Galway and get some sleep. We stayed at Westpoint B&B, kind of on the outskirts. Dinner was at Kitty O'Shea's, a mile and a half walk in rain and gale-force winds or, as our B&B hostess told us, "just a little way down the road... turn left at the top of the street" (an expression I had trouble with, because the "top" might be downhill from where you were at the time, but evidently it refers to the "end" of whatever stretch you're talking about). The B&B was quite nice, although I'd rather have been closer to town. Tomorrow... Connemara. To be continued... (Feel free to ask questions - I'll try to answer as I go along.)
Karen
Jul 11th, 2004, 05:06 PM
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Great start! I always tell everyone: "The steering wheel ALWAYS goes to the CENTER of the road -- the reminder always helps me. Interestingly, I seldom forget IN IRELAND, I usually suffer at least one SENIOR MOMENT within my first week HOME.
For future reference: Get a MasterCard Gold or Platinum and waive the CDW. It still won't cover everything, but it is better coverage, vis-a-vis the deductible on the standard CDW, and it costs you nothing. Ten days, at 15 Euro per would have gone a long way towards a night in a castle, or an hour at Blarney Woolen Mills!
Can't wait to hear more.
For future reference: Get a MasterCard Gold or Platinum and waive the CDW. It still won't cover everything, but it is better coverage, vis-a-vis the deductible on the standard CDW, and it costs you nothing. Ten days, at 15 Euro per would have gone a long way towards a night in a castle, or an hour at Blarney Woolen Mills!
Can't wait to hear more.
Jul 11th, 2004, 06:39 PM
#3
I forgot to mention... I did try to switch the insurance to my gold Master Card, but since it had been pre-paid, they balked and said they couldn't do it. Also, they said there'd be a 10 Euro per day charge if we used the credit card insurance. I didn't understand that - why would we pay them NOT to use their insurance? Anyway, we were too tired to haggle so we just accepted it - probably a mistake. More tomorrow.
Jul 11th, 2004, 09:15 PM
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As I have said on more than one occassion, car rental in Ireland is about the only weak link in the entire Irish travel experience. Everyone should get in the habit of writing a 'protest letter' with a CC to Bord Failte, every time they have a problem. Maybe then, we might actually see some improvement in this regard.
Ah, well. Hopefully the rental car hassle was not sufficient to put you off from returning. Compared to all the pluses of traveling in Ireland, I look upon it as one of life's little annoyances. So far, it hasn't kept me from returning. June was #6 and we are already talking about when we can go again!
Ah, well. Hopefully the rental car hassle was not sufficient to put you off from returning. Compared to all the pluses of traveling in Ireland, I look upon it as one of life's little annoyances. So far, it hasn't kept me from returning. June was #6 and we are already talking about when we can go again!
Jul 12th, 2004, 06:43 AM
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Hello Althom1122, if you get a chance could you perhaps have a look at my rough plan for trip to Ireland in 2005? My husband and I haven't been before and would be hugely grateful for any advice. I'll be printing out your trip report and studying it.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Jul 12th, 2004, 09:41 AM
#6
Yes, LisainSA, I'll be glad to offer any advice I can on your itinerary (although I'm not an expert!)...
On to day 2: Our first Irish breakfast - cooked eggs, "bacon" (they call it bacon, but to us it was ham or maybe Canadian bacon), brown soda bread (I LOVED it), toast, cereal, yogurt, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms. After two days, I switched to just cereal and yogurt and sometimes a piece of fruit (and STILL gained 3 pounds on the trip!).
Because it was raining, we decided to postpone our visit to the Aran Islands and instead go into Galway and then take a drive in the countryside. We visited the Cathedral (mass was in progress, so we sat quietly in a corner for a little bit just taking it in). It's not the most impressive cathedral I've seen, but it is worth a stop if you're in Galway. Other than that, we just strolled and did a bit of shopping. I bought a dark green sweater for my boyfriend - 39E. Didn't know to ask for the tax back form and they didn't offer, so I missed out that time. If you're making purchases and they don't offer, be sure to ask. It adds up.
We got a couple of pictures in front of a jewelry store with the Oscar Wilde statue (and someone else, too, but I can't remember who!).
Then we headed out around noon for Connemara: Clifdon, Kylemore Abby, and Cong. The Connemara area is absolutely lovely even on a cloudy day. We made lots of stops for pictures and a brief break at Aughanare Castle (not worth the stop if you're rushed for time) and still managed to arrive in Clifdon mid-afternoon where we did a little shopping. It's a cute town, definitely worth a stroll. And of all things, we ran into some people from just a few miles from us in Maryland. Small world. Next stop (other than some roadside pull-offs for more pictures!) was Kylemore Abby. We didn't go inside, but the setting was beautiful. And the gift shop there was a particularly nice one. I bought some jewelry, both for me and for a couple of friends, and Penny made some purchases, as well. Just past the abby, we came to a scenic lake and stopped for more pictures. I was sitting on a rock fence with the water behind me, and a truck came by and slowed down and one of the guys asked if we were making a calendar... (haha).
We got to Cong late in the afternoon, but the Abby ruins there are always open (and free) and worth the visit. We drove by Ashford Castle (it's a hotel now and we didn't go in), and then had dinner at the hotel in town (sorry, can't remember the name of it, but it was pretty good). We then drove back to the B&B and went down to Salthill for ice cream.
It seems like we did a LOT in one day! Didn't feel rushed, though. The long days (not dark til 10:30 or 11) made it easy to pack a lot in.
Day 3: Aran Islands. To be continued...
On to day 2: Our first Irish breakfast - cooked eggs, "bacon" (they call it bacon, but to us it was ham or maybe Canadian bacon), brown soda bread (I LOVED it), toast, cereal, yogurt, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms. After two days, I switched to just cereal and yogurt and sometimes a piece of fruit (and STILL gained 3 pounds on the trip!).
Because it was raining, we decided to postpone our visit to the Aran Islands and instead go into Galway and then take a drive in the countryside. We visited the Cathedral (mass was in progress, so we sat quietly in a corner for a little bit just taking it in). It's not the most impressive cathedral I've seen, but it is worth a stop if you're in Galway. Other than that, we just strolled and did a bit of shopping. I bought a dark green sweater for my boyfriend - 39E. Didn't know to ask for the tax back form and they didn't offer, so I missed out that time. If you're making purchases and they don't offer, be sure to ask. It adds up.
We got a couple of pictures in front of a jewelry store with the Oscar Wilde statue (and someone else, too, but I can't remember who!).
Then we headed out around noon for Connemara: Clifdon, Kylemore Abby, and Cong. The Connemara area is absolutely lovely even on a cloudy day. We made lots of stops for pictures and a brief break at Aughanare Castle (not worth the stop if you're rushed for time) and still managed to arrive in Clifdon mid-afternoon where we did a little shopping. It's a cute town, definitely worth a stroll. And of all things, we ran into some people from just a few miles from us in Maryland. Small world. Next stop (other than some roadside pull-offs for more pictures!) was Kylemore Abby. We didn't go inside, but the setting was beautiful. And the gift shop there was a particularly nice one. I bought some jewelry, both for me and for a couple of friends, and Penny made some purchases, as well. Just past the abby, we came to a scenic lake and stopped for more pictures. I was sitting on a rock fence with the water behind me, and a truck came by and slowed down and one of the guys asked if we were making a calendar... (haha).
We got to Cong late in the afternoon, but the Abby ruins there are always open (and free) and worth the visit. We drove by Ashford Castle (it's a hotel now and we didn't go in), and then had dinner at the hotel in town (sorry, can't remember the name of it, but it was pretty good). We then drove back to the B&B and went down to Salthill for ice cream.
It seems like we did a LOT in one day! Didn't feel rushed, though. The long days (not dark til 10:30 or 11) made it easy to pack a lot in.
Day 3: Aran Islands. To be continued...
Jul 12th, 2004, 07:21 PM
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You Go Girl! My kind of attitude and my kind of touring. Everyone needs that flexible attitude (to deal with the vagarities in the weather). Glad to see that you are visiters, and not just Tourists!
Keep the details coming. Haven't been back to the Connemeara in over two years and you are reminding us why we need to remedy that oversight.
Keep the details coming. Haven't been back to the Connemeara in over two years and you are reminding us why we need to remedy that oversight.
Jul 13th, 2004, 11:39 AM
#8
Day 3: Aran Islands. Left our B&B around 9:20 or so (in the sunshine!) for the 45 minute drive to the ferry dock - very easy to find. When you pull in, though, there's a big parking lot on the right with big signs for the ferry. We parked there (3E), but ended up having to walk 200 yards or so to the actual dock - in the POURING rain! Although it had started out sunny, one thing we learned very quickly is that the weather in Ireland can be EXTREMELY changeable! Within 20 seconds of getting out of the car, the skies opened up and we had a downpour. It rained just long enough to totally soak us, and when we boarded the ferry, it let up within a few minutes. My lightweight pants (altogether the wrong thing to wear for rain) were wringing wet. Fortunately, they dry fairly quickly. But to add insult to injury, it turns out there was a parking lot just across the street from the ferry dock - so... if you're there and it's rainy, go on down past the first parking lot on the right to the one on the left just across from the actual dock.
We got under way a little late (departure was supposed to be at 10:30 but we were held up waiting for a bus to arrive). It was a bit rough on the way over - quite a few swells - but I didn't see anybody who got sick (had heard tales that morning at the B&B of others who had). When we got to Inishmore (the largest of the Arans), we were met by various bus drivers wanting to take us on a tour. One guy, in particular, seemed friendly and nice (without being pushy!) and we decided to go for it. The tour was 10E. It was well worth it, enabling us to see a lot of the island in a short time. The visit to Dun Aengus alone made it worth the trip! This ancient fortress of rock walls(about 2000 years old) is set atop a cliff overlooking the ocean - somewhat similar to the Cliffs of Moher. The views are spectacular, but there are absolutely no guardrails to keep you from falling to your death (as Penny put it), so keep a close eye on little ones. It's about a 15-minute hike up a rocky path from the visitors' center, not terribly strenuous for people in reasonably good health. When we exited the bus, our driver told us not to fall over the edge because he'd be out his 10E (since you paid at the end), and then he winked at us - it was quite cute. It costs 2E to get in to Dun Aengus - one of the best bargains in Ireland (except for the ice cream).
It rained (again!) just as we were heading back down, and the rocks were kind of slippery, but we managed. (My pants, which had thoroughly dried from the morning's soaking, got wet all over again. Oh well.
After that, we drove to Seven Churches, a group of stone ruins used by monks in the Middle Ages. Some great photo ops here - with the old graveyard and crumbling churches. Just off to the side was a field of bulls - the biggest bulls I've ever seen. I had to get a picture. As I walked toward the fence, this one enormous brown bull looked straight at me with eyes that would stare down a python. Yikes. I nearly turned tail and ran, but the thought of that photo op was more than I could resist. So... he didn't move a muscle as I pulled out my camera and aimed it at him - just kept staring the whole time. I managed to line him up so that there was a gravestone marker (one of the typical Celtic style crosses with the round circle around the middle of the cross) just behind him and above his head. It turned out great - one of my finer shots! But I was ready to move away as soon as I snapped it.
By this time, we had sunshine and were enjoying the beautiful but stark countryside as we drove back to town (Kilronan). There we did some shopping - I bought myself a sweater. Penny pointed out that I tried on at least 20 percent of their inventory before deciding - and then walked down the street and found the same one for cheaper! By this point we were pretty hungry and asked a woman in the sweater shop (who by this time was my new best friend - ok, not really) where she'd eat, and she recommended the little cafe/coffee shop right next to the Spar supermarket (where, by the way, Penny purchased a sponge to use in the shower since apparently none of the B&B's supply wash cloths). We walked up and the cafe didn't look like much, but we decided to give it a try. It was one of the best lunches we had! Very small, down-to-earth place, but great food. Penny had a Mediterranean wrap and I had a vegetable quesadilla. Both were excellent, reasonably priced, and served with side salads. And the woman there then managed to talk me into some warm chocolate cake with "cream" (whipped cream). She really had to twist my arm - yup, no way would I have done such a thing on my own...
Then after a few more pictures and a little more shop browsing (oh, and we peeked in the church there in town - worth a look - I always love checking out the churches), it was time to get back on the ferry for the (much smoother) ride back.
At our B&B hostess' recommendation, we stopped for dinner at a place right on the way back from the ferry (about 5-6 miles outside of Galway) called Donnelly's. It was a fantastic recommendation - the fried crab claws were to die for.
That pretty much did us in for the day and we went back to the B&B to get to bed a little early.
(One thing I forgot to mention is that in Galway the previous day, I inadvertently drove down a pedestrian street. Didn't realize it until too late, but sure did feel foolish!)
Tomorrow: Dublin, here we come.
We got under way a little late (departure was supposed to be at 10:30 but we were held up waiting for a bus to arrive). It was a bit rough on the way over - quite a few swells - but I didn't see anybody who got sick (had heard tales that morning at the B&B of others who had). When we got to Inishmore (the largest of the Arans), we were met by various bus drivers wanting to take us on a tour. One guy, in particular, seemed friendly and nice (without being pushy!) and we decided to go for it. The tour was 10E. It was well worth it, enabling us to see a lot of the island in a short time. The visit to Dun Aengus alone made it worth the trip! This ancient fortress of rock walls(about 2000 years old) is set atop a cliff overlooking the ocean - somewhat similar to the Cliffs of Moher. The views are spectacular, but there are absolutely no guardrails to keep you from falling to your death (as Penny put it), so keep a close eye on little ones. It's about a 15-minute hike up a rocky path from the visitors' center, not terribly strenuous for people in reasonably good health. When we exited the bus, our driver told us not to fall over the edge because he'd be out his 10E (since you paid at the end), and then he winked at us - it was quite cute. It costs 2E to get in to Dun Aengus - one of the best bargains in Ireland (except for the ice cream).
It rained (again!) just as we were heading back down, and the rocks were kind of slippery, but we managed. (My pants, which had thoroughly dried from the morning's soaking, got wet all over again. Oh well.
After that, we drove to Seven Churches, a group of stone ruins used by monks in the Middle Ages. Some great photo ops here - with the old graveyard and crumbling churches. Just off to the side was a field of bulls - the biggest bulls I've ever seen. I had to get a picture. As I walked toward the fence, this one enormous brown bull looked straight at me with eyes that would stare down a python. Yikes. I nearly turned tail and ran, but the thought of that photo op was more than I could resist.
So... he didn't move a muscle as I pulled out my camera and aimed it at him - just kept staring the whole time. I managed to line him up so that there was a gravestone marker (one of the typical Celtic style crosses with the round circle around the middle of the cross) just behind him and above his head. It turned out great - one of my finer shots! But I was ready to move away as soon as I snapped it. By this time, we had sunshine and were enjoying the beautiful but stark countryside as we drove back to town (Kilronan). There we did some shopping - I bought myself a sweater. Penny pointed out that I tried on at least 20 percent of their inventory before deciding - and then walked down the street and found the same one for cheaper! By this point we were pretty hungry and asked a woman in the sweater shop (who by this time was my new best friend - ok, not really) where she'd eat, and she recommended the little cafe/coffee shop right next to the Spar supermarket (where, by the way, Penny purchased a sponge to use in the shower since apparently none of the B&B's supply wash cloths). We walked up and the cafe didn't look like much, but we decided to give it a try. It was one of the best lunches we had! Very small, down-to-earth place, but great food. Penny had a Mediterranean wrap and I had a vegetable quesadilla. Both were excellent, reasonably priced, and served with side salads. And the woman there then managed to talk me into some warm chocolate cake with "cream" (whipped cream). She really had to twist my arm - yup, no way would I have done such a thing on my own...
Then after a few more pictures and a little more shop browsing (oh, and we peeked in the church there in town - worth a look - I always love checking out the churches), it was time to get back on the ferry for the (much smoother) ride back.
At our B&B hostess' recommendation, we stopped for dinner at a place right on the way back from the ferry (about 5-6 miles outside of Galway) called Donnelly's. It was a fantastic recommendation - the fried crab claws were to die for.
That pretty much did us in for the day and we went back to the B&B to get to bed a little early.
(One thing I forgot to mention is that in Galway the previous day, I inadvertently drove down a pedestrian street. Didn't realize it until too late, but sure did feel foolish!)
Tomorrow: Dublin, here we come.
Jul 13th, 2004, 12:25 PM
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Sounds like we had the exact same Aran Island experience, from the parking lot realization, to the ferry waiting for a bus, to the rough boat ride there and smooth back, to the mini-bus tour. Only difference was for us, it was raining all morning and the whole drive from Galway to Rossaveel, and as soon as we parked (1pm), the sunshine came out and lasted all day while on InisMor. We were glad we didn't turn back as we learned just how variable the weather really is!
Was too bad the mini-bus tours dont' go to more of the forts. Would have liked to do that.
Yep - One thing that's been mentioned on here for "things to pack" is washcloths, as BBs normally don't provide them.
Sounds like a nice trip so far.
Was too bad the mini-bus tours dont' go to more of the forts. Would have liked to do that.
Yep - One thing that's been mentioned on here for "things to pack" is washcloths, as BBs normally don't provide them.
Sounds like a nice trip so far.
Jul 14th, 2004, 09:48 AM
#12
Day 4: In Dublin's fair city...
We bid farewell to our B&B in Galway (no more fried breakfasts for me!), a little after 9 for the drive to Dublin. We'd mapped it out on the AA software, which said it was a little over 3 hours. Our B&B hostess said to allow for nearly 4 - she was right. We needn't have bothered with the map, though - roads were well marked all the way from Galway to Dublin. The roads were better than most of the others we traveled (certainly not interstate standard, though!), and we made good time. I was nervous about driving in the city, but we managed with very little trouble - only a couple of wrong turns. There was, however, quite a bit of traffic in Dublin, so it was somewhat stressful. Still, we arrived safe and sound and checked into our hotel, Mont Clare, and it was right on the corner at Merrion Square (catty-corner from the Oscar Wilde statue) - nice hotel, great breakfast, and excellent central location. We had prepaid as part of a package along with our B&B vouchers, so I'm not quite sure how much it was per night.
Once settled, we walked to Trinity College where we took one of the 30-minute, student-run tours with Andrew (whom Penny was certain must be a theater major because he was quite animated). The tour was very enjoyable with lots of interesting tidbits (for instance... in the old library, the books are shelved according to SIZE!). The cost of the tour included admission to the Book of Kells (and saved us the wait in line to buy the Kells ticket). I was glad we saw it, and was impressed with the Book's beauty and excellent condition given its age (8th or 9th Century!), but personally I enjoyed the library upstairs more - it was quite a sight.
Next stop was the National Museum, also within walking distance. We saw some gold, Viking stuff, medieval relics, Egyptian artifacts, and a section on the struggle for Irish independence. It was interesting, but I had trouble putting it all together in my mind - it seemed like a lot of disparate pieces. Still, definitely worth a stop (and free). One of my favorite things was a very, very long canoe carved out of the trunk of a tree (maybe 40 feet or more - it was LONG). I don't remember how old it was, but some years ago (early in the 1900s I believe), a farmer found it in his field and he and some neighbors carried it into town, and eventually it ended up in the museum. I could just picture these guys carrying this canoe into town...
After the museum, we stopped in a record store and bought some Irish CD's (which we played over and over in the car - once we eventually noticed that the car had a CD player!). Then on to the National Gallery. We didn't see much here - were both getting tired and hungry, so we went in search of some traditional food, didn't find anything to suit us right away, and ended up (I'm ashamed to say!) settling for Burger King. Oh well. It was the only time.
Then back to the hotel and bed.
Tomorrow: More of Dublin...
Hope this is helpful (and I'm not overwhelming you with detail!).
We bid farewell to our B&B in Galway (no more fried breakfasts for me!), a little after 9 for the drive to Dublin. We'd mapped it out on the AA software, which said it was a little over 3 hours. Our B&B hostess said to allow for nearly 4 - she was right. We needn't have bothered with the map, though - roads were well marked all the way from Galway to Dublin. The roads were better than most of the others we traveled (certainly not interstate standard, though!), and we made good time. I was nervous about driving in the city, but we managed with very little trouble - only a couple of wrong turns. There was, however, quite a bit of traffic in Dublin, so it was somewhat stressful. Still, we arrived safe and sound and checked into our hotel, Mont Clare, and it was right on the corner at Merrion Square (catty-corner from the Oscar Wilde statue) - nice hotel, great breakfast, and excellent central location. We had prepaid as part of a package along with our B&B vouchers, so I'm not quite sure how much it was per night.
Once settled, we walked to Trinity College where we took one of the 30-minute, student-run tours with Andrew (whom Penny was certain must be a theater major because he was quite animated). The tour was very enjoyable with lots of interesting tidbits (for instance... in the old library, the books are shelved according to SIZE!). The cost of the tour included admission to the Book of Kells (and saved us the wait in line to buy the Kells ticket). I was glad we saw it, and was impressed with the Book's beauty and excellent condition given its age (8th or 9th Century!), but personally I enjoyed the library upstairs more - it was quite a sight.
Next stop was the National Museum, also within walking distance. We saw some gold, Viking stuff, medieval relics, Egyptian artifacts, and a section on the struggle for Irish independence. It was interesting, but I had trouble putting it all together in my mind - it seemed like a lot of disparate pieces. Still, definitely worth a stop (and free). One of my favorite things was a very, very long canoe carved out of the trunk of a tree (maybe 40 feet or more - it was LONG). I don't remember how old it was, but some years ago (early in the 1900s I believe), a farmer found it in his field and he and some neighbors carried it into town, and eventually it ended up in the museum. I could just picture these guys carrying this canoe into town...
After the museum, we stopped in a record store and bought some Irish CD's (which we played over and over in the car - once we eventually noticed that the car had a CD player!). Then on to the National Gallery. We didn't see much here - were both getting tired and hungry, so we went in search of some traditional food, didn't find anything to suit us right away, and ended up (I'm ashamed to say!) settling for Burger King. Oh well. It was the only time.
Then back to the hotel and bed.
Tomorrow: More of Dublin...
Hope this is helpful (and I'm not overwhelming you with detail!).
Jul 14th, 2004, 09:57 AM
#14
OH! And I almost forgot. We went to Gogarty's Pub for music that night. It was a bit touristy (is mentioned in Rick Steves' book, and probably others), but we enjoyed it a lot. After standing for nearly an hour, we snagged a seat really close to (but behind) the band. We got a kick out of watching a group of women (all ages!)obviously having a bachelorette party for one of the younger women who was getting married soon. She and her mother and sister and it looked like some other female relatives practically put on a show dancing/clogging. They were clearly having a lot of fun - and we were, too!
Jul 14th, 2004, 09:59 AM
#15
>>>Message: Karen and Penny not Kevin and Perry.
British observers will note the Harry Enfield (comedian) link.<<<<
Gosh, maybe I'm more of a comedian than I knew...
British observers will note the Harry Enfield (comedian) link.<<<<
Gosh, maybe I'm more of a comedian than I knew...
Jul 15th, 2004, 01:59 AM
#16
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Very funny! Karen, I ate at that coffee shop in Inish Mor and it is wonderful. We stayed in the B&B just across from it. Many of the reataurants I felt were not great and that was the best meal we had on the Island!
As for the tour Guide in Trinity I am really cracking up as he is so OTT I pass through the main entrance as a shortcut to work and he is just so OTT shouting out about the tours sounding like he ownes the place I want to whallop him some days.
The bottom level of the museum with the boat and jewellery is my favourit and I reccommend it to anyone. There is also a cafe in here and you san stop for a coffee and rest your feet.
The Music store is on Nassau Street and anyone interested in Irish music or folk music would do well in here. Occasionally there is a live performance in the shop.
Sounds like you had fun!
As for the tour Guide in Trinity I am really cracking up as he is so OTT I pass through the main entrance as a shortcut to work and he is just so OTT shouting out about the tours sounding like he ownes the place I want to whallop him some days
. The bottom level of the museum with the boat and jewellery is my favourit and I reccommend it to anyone. There is also a cafe in here and you san stop for a coffee and rest your feet.
The Music store is on Nassau Street and anyone interested in Irish music or folk music would do well in here. Occasionally there is a live performance in the shop.
Sounds like you had fun!
Jul 15th, 2004, 07:32 AM
#17
Day 5: More of Dublin
I skipped breakfast and slept in, so Penny ate for both of us (ok, not really). We then decided to take the hop-on-hop-off bus and caught the first one at about 9:30 or so - practically across the street from our hotel. We went with City Sightseeing (rather than Dublin City Tours). City Sightseeing (also called the Gray Line) actually has two routes, red and yellow, and your ticket is good on either. They go mostly to the same places, but only one (yellow) goes to the Kilmainham Jail - a not-to-be-missed sight in my opinion. (The other company, Dublin City Tours, doesn't go there at all, but otherwise does pretty much the same route.)
We thought we'd ride once all the way around just to get a city overview and then get off at some stops after that. We sat on top (and only got rained on a couple of times!) and enjoyed the view. We hopped off at St. Patrick's Cathedral for our first stop. (We had planned on getting off at the previous stop - Christ Church - but the bus didn't stop there! We didn't realize you had to ring the bell in order get the bus to stop. Duh.) St. Patrick's is lovely inside and there's a nice gift shop to boot. We then walked back to Christ Church, arriving just as an American choral group was starting a concert (free). Wow! Talk about timing. It was wonderful and the classical and spiritual hymns reverberated throughout the beautiful surroundings. It was a real treat and one of the highlights of the trip.
Next we walked to Dublin Castle. Tours are only given between 2 and 5 on Saturday, so we were a bit early and stopped in the visitors' center cafe for a quick sandwich. The castle was quite enjoyable - and one of the few places where you could take flash pictures (so of course, we snapped away). Penny especially enjoyed the end of the tour where you went underground and saw excavations of some of the early walls. We then went out behind the castle (best picture spot for outdoor shots of the castle).
We left the splendor of royalty and headed, literally, off to jail - the Kilmainham Jail. If you're interested in Irish history, do not miss this. It was about a 45-50 minute tour, filled with stories of Irish political prisoners who were executed after staging rebellions against the British - including one particularly moving tale of a prisoner who was allowed to wed in the chapel prison, spend 10 minutes alone with his new bride, and was then led away to the firing squad. (Penny said it reminded her of her romances...) All-in-all, it was moving and fascinating.
We got back on the bus and ended our tour at O'Connell Street, a wide and beautiful boulevard. We went in search of dinner, crossed the bridge back over to the southside of the river, and ended up at Gallagher's on Temple Bar (almost right across the street from Gogarty's, where we had enjoyed the music the night before). This was a FIND! I had the vegetarian roulade and it was the best meal of the trip. It had spinach and cream cheese (and something else - I forget what) encased in a wonderful pastry shell. Yum! It was reasonably priced and delicious. (Sorry, don't remember what Penny had, but she liked it, too.) Then we strolled up Grafton Street (pedestrian mall), but the shops were mostly closed, and headed back to the hotel for a good night's sleep.
Tomorrow: Glendalough, Kilkenny, and the Rock of Cashel...
I skipped breakfast and slept in, so Penny ate for both of us (ok, not really). We then decided to take the hop-on-hop-off bus and caught the first one at about 9:30 or so - practically across the street from our hotel. We went with City Sightseeing (rather than Dublin City Tours). City Sightseeing (also called the Gray Line) actually has two routes, red and yellow, and your ticket is good on either. They go mostly to the same places, but only one (yellow) goes to the Kilmainham Jail - a not-to-be-missed sight in my opinion. (The other company, Dublin City Tours, doesn't go there at all, but otherwise does pretty much the same route.)
We thought we'd ride once all the way around just to get a city overview and then get off at some stops after that. We sat on top (and only got rained on a couple of times!) and enjoyed the view. We hopped off at St. Patrick's Cathedral for our first stop. (We had planned on getting off at the previous stop - Christ Church - but the bus didn't stop there! We didn't realize you had to ring the bell in order get the bus to stop. Duh.) St. Patrick's is lovely inside and there's a nice gift shop to boot. We then walked back to Christ Church, arriving just as an American choral group was starting a concert (free). Wow! Talk about timing. It was wonderful and the classical and spiritual hymns reverberated throughout the beautiful surroundings. It was a real treat and one of the highlights of the trip.
Next we walked to Dublin Castle. Tours are only given between 2 and 5 on Saturday, so we were a bit early and stopped in the visitors' center cafe for a quick sandwich. The castle was quite enjoyable - and one of the few places where you could take flash pictures (so of course, we snapped away). Penny especially enjoyed the end of the tour where you went underground and saw excavations of some of the early walls. We then went out behind the castle (best picture spot for outdoor shots of the castle).
We left the splendor of royalty and headed, literally, off to jail - the Kilmainham Jail. If you're interested in Irish history, do not miss this. It was about a 45-50 minute tour, filled with stories of Irish political prisoners who were executed after staging rebellions against the British - including one particularly moving tale of a prisoner who was allowed to wed in the chapel prison, spend 10 minutes alone with his new bride, and was then led away to the firing squad. (Penny said it reminded her of her romances...) All-in-all, it was moving and fascinating.
We got back on the bus and ended our tour at O'Connell Street, a wide and beautiful boulevard. We went in search of dinner, crossed the bridge back over to the southside of the river, and ended up at Gallagher's on Temple Bar (almost right across the street from Gogarty's, where we had enjoyed the music the night before). This was a FIND! I had the vegetarian roulade and it was the best meal of the trip. It had spinach and cream cheese (and something else - I forget what) encased in a wonderful pastry shell. Yum! It was reasonably priced and delicious. (Sorry, don't remember what Penny had, but she liked it, too.) Then we strolled up Grafton Street (pedestrian mall), but the shops were mostly closed, and headed back to the hotel for a good night's sleep.
Tomorrow: Glendalough, Kilkenny, and the Rock of Cashel...
Jul 15th, 2004, 07:34 AM
#18
Forgot to mention that we deliberately skipped the Guinness tour. The bus stops there (and a lot of people got off), but we had both been on similar tours and, given our limited time, we decided to pass. There are SO many things to do that you have to be really selective!
Jul 16th, 2004, 10:29 AM
#19
Day 6: Glendalough, Kilkenny and Rock of Cashel.
We had planned to spend this night in Waterford, but after reading a little more on the Rock of Cashel, we decided (while still in Galway) not to pass it up and changed our plans to skip Waterford and spend the night at Cashel. We hadn't gotten our B&B reservations ahead of time, so it was a simple matter to call Cashel rather than Waterford to book. Even though it was July, we had no trouble booking B&B's. I suspect if we had wanted a special one that is highly recommended, it might have been a problem, but don't worry that you'll be left without a place to stay if you haven't booked well ahead of time. We usually called a couple of days in advance and it was fine.
We left Dublin Sunday morning around 9. It was great timing because there was very little traffic and we were out of the city in no time. We headed south and stopped very briefly at Powerscourt, but it wasn't open yet, and we decided not to wait (we had a lot to do this day). The driveway, alone, however was beautiful! We then stopped for an hour or so at Glendalough. I'd never been to a visitor center that charged admission, but this one did - $2.75E. We decided to pass since you could see the monastic ruins and lakes for free - which was what we wanted anyway. The ruins and graveyard were great! Definitely worth a stop. (Try to get there early to beat the tour buses!)
We then headed for Kilkenny (the visitors' center at Glendalough had printed directions - so if you're driving that way, be sure to ask!), for a couple of hours. We started with the castle tour - very different from some of the other castles and certainly worthwhile (it had a very lived-in feel) - unfortunately, no picture-taking inside. I especially liked the huge room with numerous paintings on display and a ceiling that looked like an upside down Viking ship. Since it was Sunday, the shops were mostly closed so we passed on strolling the town and drove to St. Canice's Cathedral... so we thought! It was actually St. Mary's Cathedral - worth a look, but not as interesting as St. Canice's, which we found after asking for directions. St. Canice's is a beautiful Gothic church with a large round tower. The climb up is lots of fun - it's ladders rather than stairs - about 8 of them, maybe. This would not be a good idea for someone who is feeble or has claustrophobia, but otherwise, it's a fun thing to do and gives great views of town.
It took us awhile to find our way out of Kilkenny, but somehow we managed and headed for Cashel, arriving late afternoon - a little after 5. Last entry into the Rock was at 6:15, so we made it with time to spare. Our B&B, Rockside, was a delight - our favorite one. It was literally right at the base of the Rock of Cashel, a fantastic location. The rooms were adorable, the beds very comfortable, a breakfast menu was available (including pancakes!), and the hostess was a dear, if rather talkative! I'd highly recommend this place. (They accept vouchers.)
After dropping off our luggage, we walked up to the ruins. Wow. They're amazing. And the way they're perched up on the hill is fantastic - beautiful from the bottom looking up, and beautiful from the top, with vistas all the way around. This was a trip highlight! The tour is well worth it and is included in the cost of admission - take the tour! We got lots and lots of pictures here. It was overcast and rainy the evening we arrived, but the next morning it was blue sky, so we headed up again, and they let us in for free so we could get a few more pictures in the sunny weather!
After our tour, we went to dinner at Pasta Milano for a change of pace. Penny and I both had pasta, which was very good, but I must say the pizza (which we saw after we'd already gotten our meals) looked even better. Our B&B hostess also recommended Hannigans.
After dinner, we strolled through the town and I found another ice cream cone, 1E at Grogan's, a small convenience store at the far end of town. We then walked down around the corner from Grogan's (turn right at the "top of the road" then cut around to the left) to ruins of an abbey out in a field. It was a beautiful sight. There seemed to be no way to enter, though, so we... climbed a rock fence (broke the law, as Penny said), evaded some bulls, cut through the field, and got some exquisite pictures when the sun suddenly broke through the clouds! From here you could see not only the abbey, but also the back side of the Rock of Cashel. It was a great evening. We then went back to our B&B, talked to the hostess, Joan, for an hour or so, and then went back out for some night shots of the Rock, which was floodlit.
Another great day! Tomorrow: Cobh and Kinsale...
(Is anybody still reading?)
We had planned to spend this night in Waterford, but after reading a little more on the Rock of Cashel, we decided (while still in Galway) not to pass it up and changed our plans to skip Waterford and spend the night at Cashel. We hadn't gotten our B&B reservations ahead of time, so it was a simple matter to call Cashel rather than Waterford to book. Even though it was July, we had no trouble booking B&B's. I suspect if we had wanted a special one that is highly recommended, it might have been a problem, but don't worry that you'll be left without a place to stay if you haven't booked well ahead of time. We usually called a couple of days in advance and it was fine.
We left Dublin Sunday morning around 9. It was great timing because there was very little traffic and we were out of the city in no time. We headed south and stopped very briefly at Powerscourt, but it wasn't open yet, and we decided not to wait (we had a lot to do this day). The driveway, alone, however was beautiful! We then stopped for an hour or so at Glendalough. I'd never been to a visitor center that charged admission, but this one did - $2.75E. We decided to pass since you could see the monastic ruins and lakes for free - which was what we wanted anyway. The ruins and graveyard were great! Definitely worth a stop. (Try to get there early to beat the tour buses!)
We then headed for Kilkenny (the visitors' center at Glendalough had printed directions - so if you're driving that way, be sure to ask!), for a couple of hours. We started with the castle tour - very different from some of the other castles and certainly worthwhile (it had a very lived-in feel) - unfortunately, no picture-taking inside. I especially liked the huge room with numerous paintings on display and a ceiling that looked like an upside down Viking ship. Since it was Sunday, the shops were mostly closed so we passed on strolling the town and drove to St. Canice's Cathedral... so we thought! It was actually St. Mary's Cathedral - worth a look, but not as interesting as St. Canice's, which we found after asking for directions. St. Canice's is a beautiful Gothic church with a large round tower. The climb up is lots of fun - it's ladders rather than stairs - about 8 of them, maybe. This would not be a good idea for someone who is feeble or has claustrophobia, but otherwise, it's a fun thing to do and gives great views of town.
It took us awhile to find our way out of Kilkenny, but somehow we managed and headed for Cashel, arriving late afternoon - a little after 5. Last entry into the Rock was at 6:15, so we made it with time to spare. Our B&B, Rockside, was a delight - our favorite one. It was literally right at the base of the Rock of Cashel, a fantastic location. The rooms were adorable, the beds very comfortable, a breakfast menu was available (including pancakes!), and the hostess was a dear, if rather talkative! I'd highly recommend this place. (They accept vouchers.)
After dropping off our luggage, we walked up to the ruins. Wow. They're amazing. And the way they're perched up on the hill is fantastic - beautiful from the bottom looking up, and beautiful from the top, with vistas all the way around. This was a trip highlight! The tour is well worth it and is included in the cost of admission - take the tour! We got lots and lots of pictures here. It was overcast and rainy the evening we arrived, but the next morning it was blue sky, so we headed up again, and they let us in for free so we could get a few more pictures in the sunny weather!
After our tour, we went to dinner at Pasta Milano for a change of pace. Penny and I both had pasta, which was very good, but I must say the pizza (which we saw after we'd already gotten our meals) looked even better. Our B&B hostess also recommended Hannigans.
After dinner, we strolled through the town and I found another ice cream cone, 1E at Grogan's, a small convenience store at the far end of town. We then walked down around the corner from Grogan's (turn right at the "top of the road" then cut around to the left) to ruins of an abbey out in a field. It was a beautiful sight. There seemed to be no way to enter, though, so we... climbed a rock fence (broke the law, as Penny said), evaded some bulls, cut through the field, and got some exquisite pictures when the sun suddenly broke through the clouds! From here you could see not only the abbey, but also the back side of the Rock of Cashel. It was a great evening. We then went back to our B&B, talked to the hostess, Joan, for an hour or so, and then went back out for some night shots of the Rock, which was floodlit.
Another great day! Tomorrow: Cobh and Kinsale...
(Is anybody still reading?)
