Just two days in Venice
Jun 11th, 2010, 10:42 AM
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Just two days in Venice
My sister will be in Venice for just one weekend in September. I've already given her my advice on what to do and see in that short period of time, but would love your input as well. What would you put on your list of absolute must-dos in Venice in one short fall weekend?
Jun 11th, 2010, 11:38 AM
#4
St. cirq, I have a suggested 2 day itinerary:
DAY 1
early morning at the rialto market,
visit to the frari, then the sculoa di san rocco:
if sunny, lunch on the zattere [south facing] then
walk along to santa maria della salute [closes 12 noon -2pm]
catch vaporetto over to san marco - take secret itineraries tour of Doge's palace, [book in advance] then tour basilica.
wander back to hotel. in evening, if lunch was had elsewhere, go to the zattere for supper, otherwise at place spotted in daytime.
Day 2
if missed the basilica on Day 1, go there first, otherwise walk north up to the Fondamente nuove via the gesuiti church [to see the marble curtains, just amazing, only open in the mornings] then catch the vaporetto to Burano, and the ferry over to Torcello, see the Basilica [for the mosaics]. look out for views of the Dolomites on sunny clear days.
depending on time, either lunch there [we liked trattoria attila] or catch the boat back to Burano, and lunch there. then either get the boat back to "giardino" vaporetto stop and walk back through castello to the centre, or get off the boat at Murano, and have a wander around, getting the vaporetto from the centre of the island back to Venice.
in the evening, if fine, take the opportunity to explore another area like the ghetto, or the area around the arsenale.
These are just two ways of spending two days in Venice.
there are of course hundreds of others, but they seem to me to give a good mix of art, wandering, and the islands, which IMO are such an integral part of the experience of visiting venice, it's a great pity to miss them out on the grounds of not having enough time.
I have missed out:
the guggenheim [in 5 visits I've never been; i have no interest in modern art which seems to have little to do with the real Venice, but that's just me]
the Accademia [there is so much specifically Venetian art in the Frari, the Scuola and the Doge's palace, I don't see the point of seeing a more general collection in such a short visit]
Ca'd'oro [way off this track; but if you ended up nearby, it might be worth an hour or so]
Ca' Rezonnico [I know some people love it, but we didn't]
endless churches [no time really, and the cost soon mounts up unless you have a chorus pass]
etc.etc.
hope this helps!
DAY 1
early morning at the rialto market,
visit to the frari, then the sculoa di san rocco:
if sunny, lunch on the zattere [south facing] then
walk along to santa maria della salute [closes 12 noon -2pm]
catch vaporetto over to san marco - take secret itineraries tour of Doge's palace, [book in advance] then tour basilica.
wander back to hotel. in evening, if lunch was had elsewhere, go to the zattere for supper, otherwise at place spotted in daytime.
Day 2
if missed the basilica on Day 1, go there first, otherwise walk north up to the Fondamente nuove via the gesuiti church [to see the marble curtains, just amazing, only open in the mornings] then catch the vaporetto to Burano, and the ferry over to Torcello, see the Basilica [for the mosaics]. look out for views of the Dolomites on sunny clear days.
depending on time, either lunch there [we liked trattoria attila] or catch the boat back to Burano, and lunch there. then either get the boat back to "giardino" vaporetto stop and walk back through castello to the centre, or get off the boat at Murano, and have a wander around, getting the vaporetto from the centre of the island back to Venice.
in the evening, if fine, take the opportunity to explore another area like the ghetto, or the area around the arsenale.
These are just two ways of spending two days in Venice.
there are of course hundreds of others, but they seem to me to give a good mix of art, wandering, and the islands, which IMO are such an integral part of the experience of visiting venice, it's a great pity to miss them out on the grounds of not having enough time.
I have missed out:
the guggenheim [in 5 visits I've never been; i have no interest in modern art which seems to have little to do with the real Venice, but that's just me]
the Accademia [there is so much specifically Venetian art in the Frari, the Scuola and the Doge's palace, I don't see the point of seeing a more general collection in such a short visit]
Ca'd'oro [way off this track; but if you ended up nearby, it might be worth an hour or so]
Ca' Rezonnico [I know some people love it, but we didn't]
endless churches [no time really, and the cost soon mounts up unless you have a chorus pass]
etc.etc.
hope this helps!
Jun 11th, 2010, 11:44 AM
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I'm a Ca'Rezzonica lover so I would definitely recommend it. Also a trip to Torcello and the church there, Miracoli church, evening vaporetto ride from Rialto to San Marco to see the palazzi lit up.
Jun 11th, 2010, 01:20 PM
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annhg,
just as aside, while I found the Peggy Guggeneheim disappointing for many reasons, I do think it has everything to do with the REAL Venice -- which is after all, the home of the Biennale and the Venice Film Festival, two extremely important events in the art world. The continuum of Venice as a place of both glamor and fine art into the 20th century has a lot to do with Peggy Guggenheim settling there, and the present ambience of the Dorsoduro is very much a result of her having made it her home.
As for the Accademia, It is not "a general collection." It is certainly the greatest repository of Venetian painting in the world. Much of the art work inside the churches of Venice simply had to be removed for safekeeping due to damp conditions, and viewing the collection in the Accademia can begin to give one a true sense of how splendid and rich the golden interiors of Venice were. In addition, the Accademia is one of Italy's greatest museums of painting, and it is one of the most important museums of painting in Europe.
I've never been on the "secret intineraries of the Doge's Palace" and probably never will.
just as aside, while I found the Peggy Guggeneheim disappointing for many reasons, I do think it has everything to do with the REAL Venice -- which is after all, the home of the Biennale and the Venice Film Festival, two extremely important events in the art world. The continuum of Venice as a place of both glamor and fine art into the 20th century has a lot to do with Peggy Guggenheim settling there, and the present ambience of the Dorsoduro is very much a result of her having made it her home.
As for the Accademia, It is not "a general collection." It is certainly the greatest repository of Venetian painting in the world. Much of the art work inside the churches of Venice simply had to be removed for safekeeping due to damp conditions, and viewing the collection in the Accademia can begin to give one a true sense of how splendid and rich the golden interiors of Venice were. In addition, the Accademia is one of Italy's greatest museums of painting, and it is one of the most important museums of painting in Europe.
I've never been on the "secret intineraries of the Doge's Palace" and probably never will.
Jun 11th, 2010, 02:58 PM
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I have been to Venice 10+ times, and knowing how much and often a person can get lost, I would suggest saving the trip to Murano and Burano for another time. I just returned from Italy with a couple who had never been, and we took them to Venice among other places. My husband and I know it well, but I am sorry that we spent 1 of our 3 days on the boat ride to the islands. They loved it, but in turn, they missed some things on Venice proper that I think they would have liked. It takes a good part of day to make the trip.
Jun 11th, 2010, 07:14 PM
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Hi, franco. No, she hasn't been to Venice before (not sure if she's even been to Italy, but is very well traveled). Her interests are pretty much the same as mine: a museum or two, history, art and architecture, good food (I know that's not Venice's strong point), people-watching, cultural events, and probably some shopping (she's a shoe-aholic like me). She's very organized and detail-oriented and will probably want to scour maps and guidebooks and know precisely what she's going to do every minute - but will also be open to diversions along the way.
Jun 12th, 2010, 02:37 AM
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Ah well, so for such a short visit, I'd certainly choose a small museum, so not the Doge's Palace and not the Accademia, great as they are. And no, not the Guggenheim either (though I agree with zeppole about the importance of the Guggenheim for contemporary Venice, I also agree with Ann that modern art is still not representative enough for Venice to include in a two-days visit). Think Ca' d'Oro (the building is more exciting than the art, which isn't bad either, but Ca' d'Oro is the best Venetian palazzo by far), Ca' Rezzonico, Querini-Stampalia (a happy marriage between the historic art exposed and the interior design by the one grand modern architect of Venice, Carlo Scarpa), or, if she happens to be interested in historic dresses, Palazzo Mocenigo at San Stae.
Otherwise, I'd dedicate one day to well-known, world-class, crowded & overrun Venice, and the other day to calm, serene small-town Venice. Like in: Basilica di San Marco (early morning or late afternoon, but it's indispensable to go inside), the Piazza, Canal Grande, S. Maria della Salute, the Frari Church, Scuola Grande di S. Rocco and "her" museum, day 1 (very similar to what Ann suggested). Scuola di S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni, S. Giorgio Maggiore (not just the church, which would rather belong to day 1, but above all the former monastery, now the Fondazione Cini, expensive entrance fee, but she will be alone with some very knowledgeable guide, showing her around terrific architecture by father and son de Buora, Palladio, and Baldassare Longhena), SS. Redentore, Le Zitelle (since she'll be there on a weekend: this is for Sunday morning, before mass - the only possibility to see this little-known jewel, nicknamed "Palladio's Pantheon"; mass is at 10.30, if I recall correctly), S. Nicolò dei Mendicoli, I Carmini (church and scuola), S. Giovanni Decollato (S. Zuane Degolà, in Venetian), day 2... I've only included churches that are open on Sundays (which leads to the sad omission of S. Sebastiano). I strongly advise against any islands (sorry, Ann) for such a super-short visit - the only one that's REALLY interesting is Torcello, and that's too distant and time-consuming for a two-days stay.
Shoeaholics (both female and male) must visit Giovanna Zanella, quite probably this planet's best and most interesting shoe designer/shoemaker. She's usually making them to measure, but there are always a few pairs ready-to-go, and of course she ships the measure-made shoes wherever you want her to. (I don't mention which international celebrities are among her customers, since I find that rather off-putting. Suffice it to say that there are more than just a few of them.) Castello 5641 (Calle Carminati), near S. Lio; no website (but some pictures of her shoes available via Google).
Otherwise, I'd dedicate one day to well-known, world-class, crowded & overrun Venice, and the other day to calm, serene small-town Venice. Like in: Basilica di San Marco (early morning or late afternoon, but it's indispensable to go inside), the Piazza, Canal Grande, S. Maria della Salute, the Frari Church, Scuola Grande di S. Rocco and "her" museum, day 1 (very similar to what Ann suggested). Scuola di S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni, S. Giorgio Maggiore (not just the church, which would rather belong to day 1, but above all the former monastery, now the Fondazione Cini, expensive entrance fee, but she will be alone with some very knowledgeable guide, showing her around terrific architecture by father and son de Buora, Palladio, and Baldassare Longhena), SS. Redentore, Le Zitelle (since she'll be there on a weekend: this is for Sunday morning, before mass - the only possibility to see this little-known jewel, nicknamed "Palladio's Pantheon"; mass is at 10.30, if I recall correctly), S. Nicolò dei Mendicoli, I Carmini (church and scuola), S. Giovanni Decollato (S. Zuane Degolà, in Venetian), day 2... I've only included churches that are open on Sundays (which leads to the sad omission of S. Sebastiano). I strongly advise against any islands (sorry, Ann) for such a super-short visit - the only one that's REALLY interesting is Torcello, and that's too distant and time-consuming for a two-days stay.
Shoeaholics (both female and male) must visit Giovanna Zanella, quite probably this planet's best and most interesting shoe designer/shoemaker. She's usually making them to measure, but there are always a few pairs ready-to-go, and of course she ships the measure-made shoes wherever you want her to. (I don't mention which international celebrities are among her customers, since I find that rather off-putting. Suffice it to say that there are more than just a few of them.) Castello 5641 (Calle Carminati), near S. Lio; no website (but some pictures of her shoes available via Google).
Jun 12th, 2010, 02:39 AM
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Ah yes, and she may be interested in http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...estaurants.cfm and http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...sportation.cfm
Jun 12th, 2010, 07:37 AM
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Franco: I hate to add more of a burden onto your load of "expert in residence", but I just read through your restaurant rec post from 2006. I'm wondering if you would consider making a short updated post list whenever you have a spare moment. I know that in my hometown or in two of our standard vacation places, ownership turnover or circumstances would greatly alter my recommendations within a few years.
BYW, since Peggy Guggenheim's house was one of our favorites, I had recommended that to the friend. Upon reading others' reactions, I'm going to write her and say, "just ignore that--you won't like it".
I wish we had done the Fondazione Cini--I don't know why we didn't. We certainly enjoyed being over on that island, and I have told my friend not to bother with the Campinelle on St. Mark's square since the loggia of the church provides much the same view and the view from S. Giorgio Maggiore was the one to get.
Again, kudos.
BYW, since Peggy Guggenheim's house was one of our favorites, I had recommended that to the friend. Upon reading others' reactions, I'm going to write her and say, "just ignore that--you won't like it".
I wish we had done the Fondazione Cini--I don't know why we didn't. We certainly enjoyed being over on that island, and I have told my friend not to bother with the Campinelle on St. Mark's square since the loggia of the church provides much the same view and the view from S. Giorgio Maggiore was the one to get.
Again, kudos.
Jun 12th, 2010, 08:19 AM
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Alessandra or Zoe, if you read through that entire restaurant thread, you'll notice quite a few updates; currently, I don't have any further (in Italy, ownership changes are usually to be measured in decades rather than years, and chefs don't ever change at most places - who would change their mamma?). But you are right, I'll make an update summarizing what has changed since the very first post, and that nothing has changed in the meantime.
