Just got back from 3 wonderful weeks in Italy - my third trip. This time around as a solo traveler visiting the Amalfi Coast, Rome, Tuscany and Umbria. Thanks so much to the Fodorites who provided suggestions and detailed info for some of my questions. Here is my trip report with my personal opinions and recommendations. It may be more detail than some people care for, but I hope it helps those of you in the planning stages!
Flight day got off to a great start with Delta leaving just slightly behind schedule out of Salt Lake. For the first (and probably only) time in my life I was flying first/business class thanks to FF miles saved for many years. I had to book a year ahead to get this award ticket. I have to say, it’s the way to go if you can afford it! What a difference. Extremely roomy leather seats, lots of leg room, and very attentive flight attendants, food was actually quite good. We made it to JKF ahead of schedule and there was plenty of time to make the connection. Ended up having a very fun New York gal sit next to me and we gabbed for a couple hours until time to sleep. The Business Class seats on Delta were the best with all kinds of fine tuning adjustments for your comfort. For the first time, I actually slept on a plane. It was great to wake up for breakfast about 1 ½ hours out of Rome feeling relatively fresh and ready to go!
Amalfi Coast, day 1
Took the Leonardo Express into Rome which was very easy. Missed the ES to Salerno so I got a ticket to Naples on the next ES. I’m not an overly fussy person, but the train was filthy and smelled like a stadium restroom that hadn’t been cleaned in years! I thought, wow this is the worst train I’ve ever been on. I can’t believe it’s a Eurostar train. I should have listened to my intuition. I had mistakenly boarded the Direct (extremely slow) train to Naples that actually left 10 minutes before my ES train but from the same track. Instead of taking 1 ½ hours to Naples, I took me 2 ½ hours on a miserable train.
From there, I got the SITA bus to Praiano, but had to wait another hour for departure. It was a long, hot day of travel and took much longer than expected. In hindsight, I would have paid the $300 for a private driver from direct Fiumicino to Praiano and felt it worth the price.
Hotel: Le Sirene in Praiano. A double room for 90E a night. Quite a few steps down to the hotel. Like most rooms fairly basic, but completely clean and comfortable. The traditional Amalfi tile everywhere. Large room and bathroom. Lovely private terrace with a sea view. Dead quiet at night, which I love! Gianfranco and Maria were wonderful, welcoming and extremely helpful. Breakfast on the outdoor terrace was very good. Definitely recommend Le Sirene.
Weather: Extremely hot and humid for someone who lives in a dessert climate. Unfortunately, I learned the Italian word for mosquitoes “zanzari”. Not many, but enough to eat me alive. Very nasty little devils. Everyone was walking around with huge, ugly red welts on their legs.
Fashion: 98% of the people you will see are tourists, wearing every sort of tennis shoe and walking sandal you can imagine. Clothes very casual, even among the locals. Wear whatever you want. I was very glad I took sleeveless, nice tee shirts, linen tops and pants, and a tiered cotton skirt.
Crowds: This was the first time tour groups had a negative impact on a trip to Italy. The Amalfi Coast was absolutely packed with tour groups and tour buses. I can’t begin to imagine what it must be like in July and August. I would never consider going during those months, nor would I ever go again in September. My first trip to Praiano had been in March 10 years ago and the difference was horrible to experience. SITA buses ran 30 to 45 minutes late or didn’t show up at all. When they arrived, they were packed and stifling. If you must go during peak tourist months, I would recommend picking a town and parking yourself there. Don’t even try to go to the other towns -- unless you can get there by sea.
Praiano - day 2
I took the SITA bus to Ravello. Ravello was very nice, but I thought the Villa Cimbrone Gardens were a bit overrated, 5E to get in. The views were awesome however, and I had a nice lunch of caprese salad (my favorite) and nice local wine. I also finally acquired a beautiful ceramic platter with the lemon design! Very expensive, plus shipping home, so this was my major souvenir of the trip. Getting to Ravello on public transportation was so awful and took so long, that I would not recommend staying in Ravello unless you use taxis or plan on relaxing and not going anywhere else during your time in the area.
Day 3 - I took the bus, boat, and train down to Paestum. It took about 2 ½ hours one way, but was well worth it! The temples are beautiful and so different from Roman ruins.
Important Note:
The trains and buses in Campania are good for bus/train for a certain number of minutes. You cannot buy a return train ticket at the Paestum train station! You must buy your return ticket at one of the cafes in Paestum before making the long walk back to the station.
Discovering this the hard way lead to interesting encounter #1. The station agent (who cannot sell tickets, but handles the arriving/departing trains) saw my look of disbelief and defeat. At this point, I was hot, tired, dusty, and had blisters on both feet. I guess my opinion of walking all the way back and forth again was clearly shown on my face! He offered (in Italian, he did not speak any English) to give me a ride back to Paestum to get the ticket and I took him up on it! In return I got us both a cold Coke in the bar and away we went back to the station. So - now he wants me to sit and visit in his air conditioned office. We had a limited, but interesting conversation while I waited for my train. My Italian is not good enough for a fluent conversation, but he did tell me he collects stamps and asked me to send him some. Harmless enough guy, but he sure tried his best to make an “impression”.
On the catamaran boat back from Salerno to Amalfi, I was the only passenger! Seems not many people do this, but it was a beautiful ride. Coming up the gangplank, I was looking ahead, not down, and missed a step down into the boat. Went down on my hands and knees while the young crew members just stared and didn’t move a muscle. Didn’t even ask if I was alright. Interesting.
Took the boat to Positano and walked around a bit, then stopped for a glass of wine at a bar on the beach and just people watched. Lots of expensive shopping, clothes, jewelry, typical tourist stuff and lots of tourists. I’m so glad I decided to stay in Praiaino, it was much more my kind of place. I think if you like some nightlife, shopping and the resort atmosphere, you would prefer Positano and be bored in Praiano.
Restaurant: La Brace in Praiano. I had a dinner here 10 years ago and remembered it to be very good. Had a delicious seafood dinner here my first night with friendly, professional service. The second night, I tried a little trattoria/pizzeria in Praiano where my waiter (an Arab immigrant) made it very obvious he didn’t want to serve a single woman. Dinner was poor, the clams so sandy I couldn’t eat them. I headed back to La Brace for desert and they insisted on treating me to the dessert. Yummy tiramisu compliments of Gianni, the owner. I returned the third night and was greeted like an old friend. Again, a fabulous dinner. I would highly recommend La Brace. They asked me not to recommend them to too many people because they’re getting old! Be sure to try La Signora’s mixed grilled vegetables. They are to die for.
Capri - day 4
Since there was no hope of getting my single piece of luggage on the crowded Positano/Praiano bus, I took a taxi to Positano, sort of. 20E got me dropped off above the town and I had to walk down the stairs with my rolling suitcase. I had made a reservation for the 9:30 am boat and was glad I knew it was necessary. There were lot of people extremely disappointed to find out they were going to have to wait and take the 11:30 am boat for their day trip to Capri.
Hotel: Stayed at Hotel Bellavista in Anacapri, a 3*. Nice enough single room and very quiet hotel, but it has seen better days. Breakfast not good. It seems they have a lunch contract with a big tour outfit and the group was getting instructions from their guide during lunch. Grabbed a quick lunch in a pizzeria where every customer but me had a tour group sticker on their shirt. Not a good sign, but the food and wine were good enough and the service speedy. They seemed surprised and impressed that I was able to order in Italian.
Took the lift up to Mt. Solaris and enjoyed the views of the clear turquoise water below. Walked around a bit into the local neighborhood below and found a church, Chiesa Monumentale S. Michele, with a famous mosaic floor. It was really beautiful and I recommend visiting to see it. Jammed onto the little bus back down to Capri. Yes it’s quite a ride, but not scary. Walked around town and tried not to be trampled to death by a tour group. Sorry to say I did not enjoy this aspect of Capri at all.
Day 5
I took the boat tour around the island in the small wooden boat. We had about 20 passengers of all nationalities. This was a true highlight and very relaxing! The sea as very rough that day on the gulf side of the island (much to the dismay of the Italian girl sitting next to me - yuck) so the Blue Grotto was closed. That was OK, our tour took us to other grottos where we could see the beautiful effect of the sun reflecting into the water. We also saw a cave where red coral was growing. It was a very relaxing and beautiful trip. Perfect temps and the wind in your hair. Capri was definitely getting much better! After the boat ride, I stopped for a great lunch at ristorante Villa Verde in Capri. Excellent grilled seafood lunch and a beautiful interior garden setting. Then I made the hike up to Villa Jovis which is quite a hike. Not many people do this, so it was nice to see what the residential areas of Capri were really like and again to get away from the day tripping crowds in town. I ended the day with a glass of wine in the small piazza and definitely noticed fewer people in the evening.
Some people enjoy the high end shopping and that type of thing. What I enjoyed was the natural beauty of Capri. I would not go there again during tourist season. I would go to Ischia instead.
The next morning, on to Sorrento via the alifscafi. My scheduled boat never showed up, so waited another hour before one came. The ride was very scary!!! The sea was rough out in the middle, the “wings” kept hitting the water and we were nearly thrown out of our seats. I was really scared (not much scares me) and looked around to see if the regulars were concerned. They were. I would not recommend the alifscafi, take the boat instead!
Next Pompeii and Napoli…..
Just Back - Dayle's Solo Trip to Italy
Recent Activity
View all Europe activity »
- 1 General questions about Sicily
- 2 Paris Transportation- Hotel near Saint Suplice Station to CDG Airport
- 3 Confirm these things before you book yourself at B&B accommodation.
- 4 London and Paris; Christmas 2013!
- 5 Running Very Behind on Month Long Europe Trip
- 6 Zee Best
- 7 I have a new eBook out on Mystical Ireland Travel
- 8 Chatham Dockyards Need a Whole Day?
- 9 Yorkshire Dales and Moors home base? (and other questions)
- 10
Barcelona June 2013 Trip Report
- 11 Best Base on the Rhine for Day Trips
- 12 Prague Hotels -Old Town
- 13 Christmas Markets - Frankfurt or Copenhagen
- 14 What to Give to Host Family
- 15 Rome apartment
- 16
Schnauzer, live from Paris, Lyon, Nice, Averyon and Dordogne, join me
- 17 Renting Road Bikes near Beaune
- 18 Rome stay - Flaminio P. del Popolo or P. del Colosseo?
- 19
Trip Report: SE England - Stately Homes & Gardens in Kent
- 20 Paros or Naxos?
- 21 Serbia itinerary and ideas for activities
- 22 Turin/Torino and surrounding area
- 23
Mum's been to Iceland, or "round Iceland with a cucumber"
- 24 Hotels in London
- 25 Cinque Terre, Monterosso- Transportation & Accommodation questions
Thanks for the great post. I love the Amalfi coast too. I went in mid-Feb. & my only disappointment was that the flowers weren't blooming.
What kind of a boat is an alifscafi?
Cobbie
Thanks for your report. It is just what I needed. I’ll be traveling solo and visiting pretty much the same area. I thought September would be a perfect month to visit the area. I may tweak my timetable just a little bit.
I can’t wait for the rest.
Oops, sorry, it's aliscafi - a hydrofoil. Still a little loopy from the 26 hours of travel back home. But that's a whole other story!
Thanks for the trip report. I will be in Sorrento for 4 days next week, and am also travelling solo. What kind of tour did you take in Capri? I don't have much of a budget and will only be visiting as one of those annoying day-trippers, but your boat ride sounds amazing!
Hi Ashlynn,
I believe the company I went with cost about 11 - 15E. I usually save my tickets, but I'm not finding this one. The boat trip really was my favorite thing about Capri! It took about 2 hours. It may be a bit longer for you if you get to go into the blue Grotto.
Buona fortuna!
Hi Dayle, thanks for sharing your time in Italy..enjoyed your report. Is there more?
I was on a hydrofoil from Naples to Capri one time when the sea was very rough. Isn't that terrible? My problem was half of the passengers got sick which made me so afraid I would be too, but fortunatly I wasn't.
Pompeii - Day 6
After weaving my way through several huge tour groups waiting to board for Capri, I took the bus up to the train station and got on the Circumvesuviana for Pompeii. It took about an hour and I enjoyed chatting with 3 young entertainers who came ashore from a Silver Seas ship in the harbor. Upon arrival in Pompeii, I discovered that the only “baggage check” was a back room of the bar. Unsecured and very informal. No choice but to leave my bag there and I had all my valuables on me anyway.
This was my second visit to Pompeii. The first time I had 2 hours and this time I spent 4 ½. It was hot and I was very glad I had lugged along my straw hat. They never stop excavating, and a whole new area called the “Suburban Baths” has been uncovered in the past 10 years. You can go into it with a “special ticket” which is free. Just ask for one at the ticket booth so you don’t have to walk back. I got an audio guide and was very happy with it. Amazing mosaics! I concentrated on seeing some of the homes and buildings I had not seen previously and learned a lot. One of the most interesting buildings was the “laundry”. Also more beautiful and amazing frescos and mosaics. Reclaimed my bag and headed into Napoli.
I arrived at Garibaldi station just in time for Friday rush hour! What a great time to take a wild taxi ride in Napoli! It was actually a blast. The trash and garbage of all kinds for blocks around the train station was horrible! I would not have wanted to walk those streets under any circumstances, but I felt perfectly comfortable in the train station. My hotel, the Pinto Storey, a 3* was in the Chiaia district, very upscale area and in a historic building -- 80E per night. The hotel has been very nicely renovated and my single room had a great city view and was very nice and comfortable. The air conditioning had already been turned off for the season, but the humidity was so high and the noise outside so intense, I had to pay extra to have it turned on in my room. It was worth it for a good night’s sleep. This hotel seemed to have mostly a guy clientele and I felt a little out of place. If that bothers you, you might want to choose another hotel.
I couldn’t find the restaurant the hotel recommended, so I popped into a place on the same street called the Antica Pizzeria. I was early and the first customer, but my choice was confirmed when 5 minutes later all the locals trooped in and the place was full from then on. I was the only tourist! Fabulous pizza and good local red wine. I ate the whole thing!
Napoli - Day 7
Up early, left my bag at the hotel, and on to the Archeological Museum. Actually took the subway which was just across the piazza from the hotel.
Important Note: Have a good collection of small bills. Even though these are world class sites and museums, they are totally unprepared to give change for the 50E notes tourists get out of the ATM machines! I was unable to get an audioguide because I didn’t have exact change. I didn’t get as much out of my visit without it.
The artifacts from Pompeii were incredible, especially the mosaics! Some of them were done in pieces no bigger than an 1/8”! Absolutely amazing.
Reclaimed my bag at the hotel and since it was a Saturday and the subway wasn’t crowded, I just hopped back on to Garibaldi station. Got the ES to Rome and arrived quickly and easily in 1 ½ hours. Lucky for me I missed the torrential rain that hit Napoli later than evening. They actually had flooding problems in the city.
Upon arrival I took a taxi to my hotel, Hotel Giardino Rome, a 2*, 90E per night. This was a nice little place run by an Englishwoman, Katy, who has lived in Rome for over 20 years. Nothing fancy, but my single room was adequate and had double-paned windows to keep out the street noise. Yummy breakfast, but no water pressure whatsoever in the shower. Just a trickle……however, this hotel is in a great location! Just on the other side of the hill from the Vittorio Emmanuelle (SP?) and Trajan’s Market. Easy walking distance to all the sights except the Vatican which is a ways further. Katy and her staff are super helpful and friendly. Very homey place.
Desperately needing to do laundry, I experienced a Roman Laundromat. Didn’t take long and away I went with clean clothes. Their washing machines spin the clothes almost dry! Much better than ours in the US.
Tonight was the 3rd annual Note Bianca celebration in Rome. Basically an all night party where shops, restaurants and bars stay open all night. They had concerts and other performances in every piazza all night long. Unfortunately, it poured rain all night (as it has every year) and I was just too exhausted to care. I spent the night sleeping.
Roma - Day 8
Today was my reservation for the Borghese Gallery. My time slot was 11:00 am, but I was up early in search of cash. Turns out my ATM cards were not the same network as most of the Bancomat machines conveniently located absolutely everywhere. I had to get to more local banks to access cash. Got that done and headed to the Borghese.
Turns out since it was a Sunday morning (and probably also due to the all night party the night before) the 9:00 am time slot wasn’t full and they let me go in early. Great call! Instead of 200 people there were only about 75. A very pleasant experience and the sculptures were amazing. I had the same jaw dropping reaction to Apollo and Daphne that I had to Michaelangelo’s David. It’s that beautiful! When I came out, it was a madhouse with the 9:00 group trying to claim bags and get out and the 11:00 group trying to buy tickets, etc. One sour note, you do have to check all bags and I knew that going in so I had my valuables on me. Unfortunately, my very expensive Oakley cycling glasses were stolen out of my bag at the bag check. Be aware!
Enjoyed a walk through the Borghese Gardens and headed toward the Spanish Steps. Found an optical shop near Via Condotti and bought some new sunglasses from an Austin, TX gal who married an Italian and has lived in Rome for over 25 years. Had some lunch at a little sidewalk café off Via Condotti then continued on to the Pantheon. Such an amazing and beautiful structure! The scaffolding has been removed! Evidently the repairs/restoration are done. Had to make a gellato stop, then on to Piazza Navona which I had missed on my previous visit to Rome. Such a beautiful piazza with wonderful fountains. The fountain at (I think) the north end was fenced off for repairs. I believe this is the one that was damaged by a couple of idiots earlier this year. Too bad the junk vendors obscure the view. I never saw anyone buy anything from them. Sat and enjoyed a glass of wine at one of the many cafes and just people watched for a while.
By now I was beat and it was time to head back to the hotel for a short rest and to change for dinner. The hotel recommended a traditional Roman place on a tiny back street near the Quirinale, restaurant Scaremberg, street of the same name. Food was excellent and the real thing. I had octopus bruschetta, and although I’ve had octopus before and liked it, I just couldn’t eat this. It was served cold and was in big pieces. Got down 5 bites for a good try, but it was just a little too slimy. I also had their ravioli in butter and sage sauce which was fantastic and a good ½ bottle of their house wine. Desert was good too, but now I can’t remember what I had!
More Rome to follow.
Dayle, I am enjoying your report. It's very helpful to those of us planning trips to the Amalfi Coast. From what you experienced our scheduled visit in early November is sounding better and better. Hopefully the numerous mosquitos and tour groups will be elsewhere by then. We want to visit Capri during this trip but I hope the seas are calmer when we are there. I seldom get seasick but if those around me are suffering my stomach may also in sympathy
. Looking forward to reading more of your travels. Deborah
Dayle: Great report so far. Those of us who have been to the places you've been are hankering to return again!!
Nice imformative report Dayle---grazie !
Thanks Dayle, I'm also a solo travelling Italy lover, but haven't been south of Rome yet. Your notes are great.
Dayle,
So glad that you had a wonderful time!!
What is the hardest part of traveling solo??
Just curious...I'm leaving in a few weeks & going solo to Venice.
Roma - Day 9
Today’s plan was for the Context Rome Antica Roma tour of the Palentine Hill, the Forum and the Coliseum, but I awoke to a wild lightening storm and torrential rain about 6:00 am. By the time I was ready to get started, it had stopped raining and the skies were clearing! Lucky again! Started the day with an English language tour of Nero’s Golden House given by an archeologist. It was very interesting, but you really had to use your imagination on what it must have looked like. Since Nero was not a popular guy, emperor Trajan (I believe it was) filled in his palace with dirt and added lots of galleries (brick walls) to support his new bath complex built above. One very interesting point was that they have found no kitchens or bathrooms in the palace at all. They think that the palace was only for show, for receiving visitors, and not for living. While I waited for my tour, I sat on a bench in the little park above and watched the Moms and some grandparents with the little toddlers and babies. Chatted with a couple of them and really enjoyed this little slice of Italian life. Stopped at a pizzeria across from the Coliseum expecting to get poor food and was pleasantly surprised with a yummy pizza, good wine and even good gelato!
Met my group and Context Rome guide, Carlos at the Palentine Hill entrance and off we went. Carlos was very knowledgeable, but his information was a little disjointed and I found my mind wandering. We spent a lot of time on the Palentine Hill then skipped quickly through the Forum so we could spend a lot of time a the Coliseum. Unfortunately, the Coliseum was the only thing I had already seen on my previous trip and also that I knew a lot about. I would have preferred to spend more time in the Forum, but in all it was a good tour and went a whole 4 ½ hours.
By now I had met 2 couples over breakfast at the hotel and we all happened to be spending the same nights in Rome. We all went out to dinner to ristorante Scaremberg and sat outside in the tiny piazza at a linen draped tables surrounded by cars and vespas. Very fun and friendly people! We had a great time and drank more than our share of good wine! Everyone agreed the food was excellent. We were the last ones to leave. I guess we closed the place down.
Roma - Day 10
The Context Rome Vatican Art tour was today! I had really been looking forward to this one. Got an early start and went to see Santa Maria Maggiore which was beautiful and San Pietro in Vincoli where the Michaelangelo sculpture of Moses is located. In order to save my legs, I took a taxi to the Vatican and braced myself for a bad meal at the café directly across the street. Yikes! I can’t believe it’s legal to sell frozen, micro waved pizza in Italy!!! Biggest mistake was getting their gelato, which didn’t even qualify to be called gelato. Oh well, I knew what I was getting in to.
The line for tickets was unbelievably long, but magically disappeared completely by 1:00 pm when we were to go in. Our guide was a tiny Sicilian girl who was getting her PhD in Renaissance art. She had gone to college in the states and had excellent English. Julianna really knew her stuff and I learned so much! Did you know they used to use urine to stabilize the dies in tapestries? I might have been able to live without that particular piece of information, but then look what I’m remembering! The Rafaello rooms were incredibly beautiful and Julianna spent a ½ hour explaining the Sistine Chapel in detail before we entered. It was crowded in the chapel, but still the art was just amazing! Like many others I would highly recommend taking a tour of the museums. You will get so much more out of it.
Back to the hotel for a rest and a change for dinner. One of the couples was going to a concert of opera arias and I went out to another restaurant recommended by the hotel. Ran into the other couple, who invited me to join them, and we all enjoyed another great meal. This restaurant was La Piccola Arancia.
Roma - Day 11
There had been a national transportation strike scheduled for today, but luckily it was called off. I was able to go out to Tivoli as planned and it turned out to be a real highlight! According to Steve James’ wonderful, detailed directions, I took the metro out to the proper station and then got the bus to Tivoli. Myself and a couple others hopped off and walked the rest of the way to Hadrian’s Villa. It was a bit of a walk, but not bad. The interesting thing about the Villa is that it has not been buried under successive years of building projects. You didn’t have to use your imagination much to see how it must have looked. Very interesting.
Caught the local bus up to Tivoli and went to the Villa d’Este. What a treat! I really didn’t know what to expect. The villa itself has been turned into a sculpture museum, but most of the frescos remain and are in very good condition. The real surprise were the beautiful gardens and fountains! It was just as I had always expected an Italian Renaissance garden to look, but had never really found. The fountains were spectacular and just overwhelming! I noticed that everyone was walking around with smiles. A real pleasure. Go if you can!
Met the 2 couples for a "last night" dinner and we went to ristorante der Pallaro, a place where you sit down and eat what they bring you for a fixed price of 20e per person. What a great meal. Four courses, we were stuffed and the family Fazi was lots of fun! Another late, but very fun night. We all exchanged e mail addresses and have invitations to visit each other. I've been wanting to go to Australia!
Next, on to Tuscany and Umbria.
Bailey,
Really only minor inconveniences in traveling solo. Such as, not having anyone to take turns watching the luggage at train stations while buying tickets or making pit stops. Another very good reason to travel light!
The very major problem with traveling solo, and for a true wine lover, it really is a problem, is that you can't normally get just a glass of the wine of your choice. You have to settle for the house wine, usually not want you really want. Sometimes you can get a 1/2 bottle of something, but selection is extremely limited. It's hard for me to drink a 1/2 bottle even with a large meal. I love the wine, but it keeps me awake when I'm dining at 8 or 9 pm!
The advantages of traveling solo far outweigh any disadvantages. Restaurants take better care of you. You are far more available to talk with new people, tourists and locals alike! That's the biggest plus by far. I met so many great people. I also had much more opportunity to use my limited Italian and the local people really appreciated my efforts. I even got a few compliments!
You do need to be fairly self confident and self sufficient. If you are not normally, you will be by the time you go home!
Buon viaggio!
Such a great read Dayle. I am really looking forward to hearing about Tuscany and Umbria.
Perhaps one of the advantages of travelling solo is having more time to keep a detailed journal. Your information is invaluable to those of us who now travel solo.
Wonderful trip report. Can't wait to hear more. My 21 yr. old daughter just got back from 6 months in Italy and travelled some of the time solo and yes, she really met some great people (some not so great too, but she handled it fine). She even told us that in her 2 weeks in Lipari--she had a research grant--she only paid for 2 meals the entire time--they literally wouldn't let her pay!
Looking forward to hearing more.
Thanks all! I'm glad if this helps some planners. I've been on Fodor's for over 10 years and have planned my 4 trips to Europe with the help of this great board.
EmBee, I actually don't have the patience to keep a journal. Never have, not even once all my life. I do, however, have a pretty good memory.
Ugh, back to work tomorrow. I'll finish up tomorrow.
Buona sera!
great trip report!
Hi dayle,
Thanks for an interesting trip report.
When we visited the AC the 1st week of Oct, it was somewhat less crowded than you are reporting.
>Did you know they used to use urine to stabilize the dies in tapestries?<
Yes. Chamber pots were emptied into large jars on the corner and emptied by the dyers each evening. Night soil went into other jars and was collected for use on farms.
It's the urea in urine that helps fix the dyes and give brighter colors.
You've got great style and spirit Dayle. I am thoroughly enjoying your report.
"The very major problem with traveling solo, and for a true wine lover, it really is a problem, is that you can't normally get just a glass of the wine of your choice."
I totally agree! On my last trip to Rome I wasn't even solo, but my sister was pregnant and couldn't drink. So it was wine by the glass for me. Boo hoo.
I am really, really enjoying your report. Thanks.
Thanks Dayle for such a great report. I'm getting my nerve up to travel solo since I'm the only one I know that wants to go to Paris all the time.
I love your report too. It's fun and enlightening to travel solo as you well represent.
I agree about the wine problem, but some places encourage you to take the half filled bottle with you and sometimes that works out well for the next afternoon's picnic.
Oh and for more than you ever want to know on the subject, woad is a weed that was mixed with manure to produce indigo blue.
Dayle,
Which pizzeria in Naples did you go to? You said your hotel was in the Chiaia district, and was named Antica Pizzeria something. Was it "Brandi" by any chance (on an alley off Via Chiaia, near Piazza del Plebescito and Cafe Gambrinus)?
Thanks everyone for the kind comments!
Tydls, no my Napoli hotel was the Pinto Storey (located right at the Piazza Amedeo) and the name of the pizzeria was Antica Pizzeria on Via Francesco Crispi.
I'll work on the last week tonight!
Bravo Dayle! Solo travel is awesome. I've traveled solo to Italy three times. You're so right -- it's a great way to really get into things, meet people, practice the language, and...do whatever you please!
You mentioned the mosaics in the Museo Archeologico di Napoli...did you see the Alexander Mosaic--was it on view? As I just mentioned in another thread yesterday, that's the ONE artwork I long most to see that I haven't yet. The mosaic rooms were closed for renovation on two of my previous trips, and the third I didn't go to Naples. I know that mosaic backwards and forwards from books, slides, etc., but have never, ever seen it in person...sniffle...maybe next year...
Montalcino - Day 12
Caught an early train from Termini to Chiusi where I was to pick up my rental car - Autoeurope, 8 days for $330. Chatted with two young girls from Hong Kong who shared my compartment. They were really having an adventure! The Avis office was actually far enough away to require yet another taxi ride and was located inside an auto dealership. If I had known this, I would have picked up my car in Orvieto. You can walk to the rental offices in Orvieto - at least you could 5 years ago! Anyway, got a zippy little VW Golf. I don’t know why I always forget how much fun it is to drive a stick. I really had a good time in this car!
Drove though Montepulciano and on to Pienza. Because it was lunchtime and I was hungry, I stopped and had lunch at the Latte di Luna (if I have the name right). Most of the tables were reserved and the host rather grudgingly gave me a table in the back inside. Still, the pasta with truffles was excellent, even if the service did border on rude. Saved Pienza for another day and continued on to Montalcino. A couple minutes later the seat belt dinger started going off in the car! I tried everything, but couldn’t get it to stop. So, for the next 45 minutes I had to listen to it dinging away. Very nerve racking and distracting. I was having visions of having to turn back or waste a few hours the next day returning the car. Luckily, it finally stopped right before I reached Montalcino and never bothered me again!
Hotel: Il Giglio, a 3*. Made a few turns through the narrow streets before I found it, but it was very nice. They do park and retrieve your car for you which is a good thing considering where they park them. My double room was very nice (80E per night, breakfast not included) and had a breathtaking view out over Tuscany. Bath was very nicely done in unpolished travertine marble, but still the shower had no water pressure. Trickle only. I had a bit of laundry done here and it was a very nice service. Be forewarned that those old walls have no soundproofing. I got to listen to the people in the next room (ahem) for far too long that first night before I finally banged on the wall around 1am.
Headed right up to the Fortezza for some long-anticipated Brunello tasting. I had never tried Brunello before since its cost in the US is far beyond my budget. Even here, it was 12E just for 3 tastes! Ouch! However, it was well worth it. I thought I had gone to heaven. The people tasting next to me had been there for some time and were former New Yorkers from Telluride. I was green with envy when they shipped 30 bottles home!!! Climbed up to the walkway around the top of the fort and took some beautiful pictures. There was a whole group of serious photographers there. Turns out they were a photo seminar tour with National Geographic and were learning from the real pros. I noticed people below setting up for some sort event at the Fortezza, with food tents and a stage being erected.
As I walked around the town, it became very clear that in Montalcino, it’s ALL about the wine! I just fell I love with Montalcino. Just the right size for me, very, very small. I found Grappolo Blu and decided to have dinner there when they opened. In the meantime, I had to go shopping for something warmer to wear! A cold front had come through and Montalcino was only 17 degrees C. I don’t know what that is in Fahrenheit, but it was really cold with a strong wind! Found a lovely red-orange, wool sweater and had a nice conversation with the lady who owned the store. She spoke no English, but we still managed to joke that maybe I should buy some orange lingerie she had on display to go with it!
Dinner at Grappolo Blu was truly special. It’s a nice, but relaxed and friendly place. There was some sort of small, Foodie tour group there, but fortunately, the group didn’t impact the experience or the service. I ordered the Zuppa alla Contadino and Cinghale in Balsamic sauce along with a ½ bottle of Brunello. I had no idea the zuppa would be so filling, but it was excellent! Bean soup in a delicious broth (brodo) with onions, herbs, and some crusty bread. I was stuffed and trying to save room for the next course, but Luciano (the owner, of “Vanilla Beans and Brodo” fame) insisted I finish it off! Now here comes the cinghale and it was really excellent! I ate all of it and knew someone would have to take me out in a wheelbarrow for sure. Luciano is quite the character and knows how to work the room, but the man really knows and LOVES his wine. He and his wife, Mariapia, work hard, but love what they do and it comes through in the food. This is really the place to come if you want try traditional, hearty Tuscan cooking at its best. All the dishes are the perfectly complimented by Brunello, of course! Luciano invited me to return at 11:30 pm and “drink the wine” with them, but I was just too full and too tired to make it.
Pienza and Monte Oliveto - Day 13
Slept in a little after all the fine Brunello the night before! Then hopped in the Golf and zipped over to Pienza. Pienza is really a beautiful small town, and definitely on all the tour bus routes. They had lots of very nice shops with goods aimed at the tourists, but that’s OK. Beautiful and tasty things to be had. I took quite a few pictures and grabbed a panini to eat along the city walkway. Gorgeous views! I spent about 2 hours in Pienza including sitting for a while with lunch, then after a gelato stop, it was time for a good drive. I looped all around and made whatever detours looked fun at the moment on my scenic route to Monte Oliveto. I spent about 3 hours just driving and making photo stops. Arrived at the abbey right on time for the 3:00pm reopening and was disappointed to find that the Il Sodoma frescos were closed and under restoration. However, all the other frescos were there to enjoy and in beautiful condition. I didn’t take any kind of guide, so don’t know if these have all been restored. I would imagine so since they were quite brilliant. I really enjoy the frescos and they way they used them to tell stories and record events.
Returned to Montalcino in the late afternoon -- just in time to taste some more wine. This time I tried a couple of the “Super Tuscans” and one of the Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello’s “little brother” as they call it. The first wine was a blend of Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot and I really didn’t care for it. The other was a blend of Cabernet and Cabernet Franc and I did really like that one. The Rosso was very good too.
Next, another fabulous dinner at Grappolo Blu. Tonight I ordered a light caprese salad and grilled lamb, one glass only of Brunello that Luciano selected for me. Everything was excellent! It was so nice to be able to finally have a truly great, single glass of wine! OK, I’m going on and on about the food and wine, but for me this was one of the highlights of my trip. For some reason I had better meals on this trip than on my previous visits, and that’s saying something.
Dejavu,
Since I didn't get an audioguide or buy a book, I'm not remembering if I did see the Alexander mosaic. Remind me what it looks like? You seem to be a real art lover! I know there were several that I recognized.
Congratulations to Dayle and all past and future solo trippers to Italy !!! Great report Dayle.
I may be able to make my first trip to Italy (hit & run) later THIS month (Oct.) or early Nov. for approx. 15 to 18 days, Amalfi to Venice. I need advice.
Will consider a female travel partner. Thank you.
Dayle,
Thanks for the tips...in fact I figured out a way to beat the wine problem.....but a bottle & offer the remainder to other dinners or the staff!!
Ira...that's
one that I've never heard...NIGHT SOIL!! The things we learn on Fodor's...PRICELESS!!!
Dayle,
What an interesting, and inspiring report! I have been to Italy twice and it is One of my favorite places. I would love to go on a solo trip, but haven't gotten the nerve to tell my family! You make it sound sooo easy!
Nancy - easy ! Tell your family you're going to the shops & send 'em a postcard from the Galleria in Milan !
We actually do pretty well here in Australia on that score - pretty dismal on the 1/2 bottles, though.
Dayle - I'm SO enjoying your post. I could almost taste the cingale as you described it! One of my "moments" was freshly roasted pig on slabs of bread at a food fair in Greve in Chianti. I was wandering around in a little Bambina (aren't those little Italian jobs fun?) & was lucky enough stumble in on market day.
I'm with you on the hardship we solos endure with the scarcity of good wines by the glass
Dayle:
If the room was open and you went in that room, I'm sure you must have seen the Alexander Mosaic -- it's HUGE. Almost 9 ft tall and almost 17 ft wide. Battle scene--Alexander the Great (riding in from left, looking gorgeous) versus Persian king Darius III (escaping to the right). Soldiers and chaos everywhere. *Millions* of tesserae!
I was so sad the mosaic rooms were closed when I went. It's a fabulous museum though. So much to see.
DejaVu,
Yes, I did see it! It was HUGE and beautiful. Really the mosaics and frescos are my favorites. You'll definitely have to go back and see them.
SharonG,
Don't even worry about it - just go solo! Everybody at work was saying "wow you are so brave." Bravery is not required, an adventuresome spirit is!
SeaUrchin,
Thanks for the compliments! Woad and manure. Have to remember that one! We have lots of woad around where I live.....
SharonG, I wanna go to Paris with you! What a hoot that trip would be!
Topping to print out later to savor....
Montepulciano & San Antimo - Day 14
My most perfect day of vacation among many wonderful days! Got an early start to nearby San Antimo so I could hear the 9:00am mass in Gregorian Chant. The abbey is in such a lovely setting and the beautiful yellow stone just glows in the morning light. After getting a few pictures, I headed in and could already hear the beautiful chants echoing through the church. Visiting early was a great call because there were only about 15 people, worshipers and respectful visitors. The church is absolutely beautiful in its undecorated simplicity. Perfectly suited for the Gregorian Chant. After the service, the abbey was open for the morning public visiting hours. As I left, the tour buses were rolling in! Go for the mass, not the visiting hours.
Hopped back into the car for the drive to Montepulciano to meet friends from home for lunch at Café Poliziano. We both arrived right on time and had a nice, long lunch while exchanging travel stories. Afterward they headed out for a long drive and I walked around town for a while. Broke down and brought a beautiful leather handbag that I felt was a very good bargain compared to US prices for the same quality. Now - how to fit this thing into my 21” roller?! Where there’s a will, there’s a way……
After a few loops around trying to find the right exit road from Montepulciano, I returned to lovely little Montalcino in time for a bit more strolling and shopping. The special event in the Fortezza turned out to be a fund raiser for restoring one of the churches so I planned to check it out after dinner. Once again, Grappolo Blu proved excellent! I had a green salad and some yummy ravioli with tomato sauce with a splurge of another ½ bottle of Brunello. Dessert was a perfect little chocolate “flan” which was sort of like a flourless fudge cake, but not too rich. Luciano kindly brought out a complimentary glass of chilled Moscato to finish off my meal and it really was the perfect finish. I left with hugs and “ciao’s” from Mariapia and Luciano. Wonderful food, great people.
Heading up to the Fortezza, I could hear the band playing. The majority of citizens must have been there, it was a good crowd. The band was just finishing the “dinner” music of 70’s pop and rock - Neil Diamond in Italian! Then they got everyone dancing with some salsa music, including a darling little toddler just old enough to walk. He started bobbing to the beat along with the adults! I knew it was my kind of fun when they started playing the Village People’s “YMCA”! They had the song right, but the crowd just didn’t have the whole cheer leading, letter forming thing going. Arm waving was a good as it got. After a few more disco songs including “Disco Inferno”, it was time for bed. This was such a fun day. The local party was the perfect end. How cool is it to live in a town where the community events are held inside an ancient fort? One of the things I love about Italy is the juxtaposition of modern and ancient.
Sleepless in Gubbio - Day 15
Today was Sunday and I stopped in Cortona for about 3 hours. Of all the hill towns I’ve visited, Cortona is the steepest by far! I got a real workout hiking all the way to the top. Can’t remember the name of the church, but it’s worth the hike. Very beautiful. There is also a monastery up there and it was interesting to see the priests (?) walking along barefooted and bearded in coarsely woven robes. Here in Cortona I also saw women tottering around the main piazza in spike heels for the first time of the trip. There is definitely a certain walk required to survive cobblestones in 4” heels. I also saw the cowboy boot thing for the first time here. Cortona really wasn’t very touristy compared to my other stops. I stopped for lunch at a ristorante up above the main piazza and had a great plate of spinach and ricotta ravioli in tomato and onion sauce. Fun people watching on Sundays!
Since money goes further in Umbria, I had booked a 4* in Gubbio for two nights, right in the centro storico. The Relais Palazzo Ducale is right on the main piazza and has wonderful views. I had parked below and walked up to find out how to drive to the hotel. Good think because you really can’t. They have a free shuttle bus that escorts you to the parking garage, very far away and down below. They will take you back and forth to your car as often as needed. The preservation laws don’t seem to be the same in Umbria and in Tuscany, so Gubbio had the centro storico and the more modern city down below. I really liked the town and would have liked to spend more time there. Gubbio's speciality seemed to be medieval weapons, as well as their famous cermics.
The first room they gave me had an automatic bathroom fan with a “humidity sensor”. Fine, but it went on even when no water was running and it screeched horribly! After a while it stopped so I thought it just needed to warm up a bit. Off I went to dinner at the hotel’s recommended ristorante, La Taverna del Lupo. This place tries way too hard to be upper-class. Far too stuffy and the food just so, so.
When I returned to my room later, I found that the fan continued to screech and asked to be moved to another room. Room number 2 had been more recently renovated and was very nice, but had no view. No problem. Church bells rang. Nice. I expected they would stop around 11pm or midnight like in every other town I have experienced. NOT. I spent a sleepless night with the church bells directly across from my room going off EVERY 15 minutes, ALL night long and no A/C. I decided this was a new form of torture.
Assisi - Day 16
Needless to say, I checked out early the next morning and did a few sightseeing things before heading on to Assisi. I did ride up the “bird cage” lift to the top of the mountain. One of the strangest lifts this skier has ever tried. Nice views at the top and, of course, a bar and café.
I had planned to see Assisi as a full day on the way to Spello, my next destination. Having no idea where I would spend the night, I headed off expecting I would just find an agritourismo along the way. I did look for a couple, but they seemed to be so far off the main road that I never did find them. So I just went for Assisi, parked my car temporarily while I hiked up to the tourist info office in the main piazza. They steered me to a nice little 3* just outside the walls for just 50E a night, the Porta Nuova Hotel. Nice, QUIET double room, breakfast, parking all included. Bliss!
Set off to start seeing churches. No audioguides available so I bought the little Assisi book. I really liked S. Maria Maggiore with the flying buttresses and the pretty pink and white stripped façade. Lots and lots of tour groups here of course, but since they are so expected in Assisi and it’s a big town, they really didn’t impact. By the time I got to the Basilica S. Francesco, it was very late afternoon. A long walk, but a beautiful sight. I spent about an hour in the upper basilica using my book and examining the frescos in detail. By the time I got to the lower basilica, my eyes were crossing. I was finally experiencing “church & fresco overdose”. Just kind of walked through the lower and headed back to my hotel.
After asking if I liked antipasti and had a car, the owner recommended a ristorante a short distance from the town. What a great find! My meal was excellent -- mixed hot antipasti, grilled lamb and patate fritti. I got an outstanding, single glass of wine and friendly service. Highly recommend this place - Paradiso Le Terme, Via Padre Giorgi 6.
Spello - Day 17
Checking out the next morning after a good, typical breakfast, I asked if I could leave my car parked until noon. Headed back to the basilica to revisit the lower church and see the art collection. I really liked the lower church with it’s colorful geometric details. Seeing Assisi in two half days rather than one whole day turned out to be much better. Assisi is a very beautiful town. Definitely a must see.
Drove the short distance to Spello where I checked into the best hotel of my trip! Palazzo Bocci, as recommended by Fodorite Eloise (I believe). Mille grazie, Eloise! A beautifully restored and very elegant 4 star in a 11th century palazzo. Excellent, friendly and unobtrusive staff, super comfy bed and divine sheets. A shower with real water pressure in an ancient palazzo! How do they do it? I had a single room with a fabulous view, plenty big enough for one person for 100E. Peacefully quiet at night even though the A1 is within sight. Breakfast was a generous buffet, laundry done swiftly and perfectly. I just loved Spello. Again, a very tiny town with a couple of small piazzas with flowers and fountains. Walked all around town, up to the top with a vino stop along the way. There is a bar/gellateria with a big garden and wonderful view of the valley about 2/3 of the way up the main street.
Dinner that night was at La Cantina. I was followed in by a small tour group that seemed to be on a “luxury” tour. They weren’t obnoxious, but they sure were loud! I ordered a bruschetta antipasti and rabbit in lemon caper sauce. It was OK, but not as flavorful as expected. There was an Italian guy dining solo at the next table. I didn’t know there was such a thing as an Italian geek, but there he was. He blew his nose constantly all though dinner. I think this did have an effect on my enjoyment of the meal. Is it just me, or isn’t it rude as well as gross to blow your nose at the table?
Spello & Montefalco - Day 18
Following a leisurely breakfast, I drove to check out Montefalco. Another very small town. Their specialty seems to be hand woven linens. Went in to see their church which is another one worth seeing. More amazing frescos mostly in good condition. Had a very good pizza and Sangrantino (SP?) de Montefalco wine which I loved! I was ready to wind down my trip and spend the rest of the afternoon simply reading in the beautiful Palazzo Bocci interior garden which I had all to myself. Wandered back up to the garden bar and had a gellato. Dinner tonight was Il Mulino, another excellent restaurant. Again, I was followed in by the small tour group -- complete with a nose-blower of their own! They were having another pre-determined meal. Personally, I would hate to go to such a nice restaurant and not be able to choose my own meal. I ordered a beef fillet in balsamic sauce and it was mouthwatering! A ½ bottle of Sangrantino de Montefalco to go with. I got to sit near their open fire grill, where an Asian chef grilled right on the fire. He was an absolute wizard with beautiful Asian presentation of the food and fun to watch. A wonderful (nearly) last meal in Italy! After dinner, I went over to him, shook his hand, gave a little bow and said “Arigato” (SP?). The look of surprise and pleasure on his face was a wonderful memory.
Tomorrow, ~ Il FINITO
Dayle - I am so enjoying your trip report! Thanks! Sally
Dayle, this report is fantastic!
ahhh the Brunello - what I would do to have a case at home!
I really regret not making it to hear the Gregorian Chants, but we only had limited time in Tuscany.
Your advice regarding solo travel interests me. Not that it would happen, my husband is just as addicted to travel as I! But still, thanks for all the input.
Can't wait to hear the finale!
Roma - Day 19
I was sorry to leave Spello. I really loved the town and the hotel. I needed to drive to Foligno to return my car and get the train to Rome. I had chosen Foligno because they had a rental office right at the station. Foligno is Umbria’s third largest city and it was the largest city I’ve driven in. It was actually very easy, not too much traffic and after a few turns I found the station. Trained to Termini and repeated the routine of a taxi to my hotel which was supposed to be the Hotel Giardino Rome again. After lugging my suitcase up the 2 flights of stairs, Sergio informed me that my room was unavailable due to a plumbing problem. However, Katy had taken the step of reserving a single room for me at the 3* across the street, the Hotel Hiberia. The Hotel Giardino Rome picked up the difference in cost. I thought that was very good of them and I appreciated their making arrangements in advance for me. Hotel Hiberia was just a bit nicer in furnishings and bath (real water pressure in the shower!) than Giardino, but not nearly as friendly and intimate.
I arrived mid-afternoon and just spent my last afternoon and evening walking all over the city! I was done with churches and museums and I just wanted to walk, enjoy the energy of Rome and revisit some of my favorite landmarks. Stopped for a very late lunch somewhere near the Pantheon. Went to Café St. Eustachio (SP?) to pick up chocolate covered expresso beans for my best friend, then hit the gourmet shop, Chocolat, for my own addiction. Not one, but two last gellati and the best flavor yet Melon (Mango), actually it was a sorbet.
Ciao, Roma - Day 20
I had arranged with the hotel for a driver to take me to Fiumicino. He was 20 minutes late arriving so the day did not start well. I knew checking in at Alitalia would be ugly and it was. It took 45 minutes just to get anywhere near the front of the line and they finally let passengers for my flight go ahead when the clock ticked down to under an hour before departure. It was very good I checked up on the desk agent because she did not even read the itinerary I handed her. She only tagged my luggage as far as Paris and didn’t even notice the other two legs of my reservation. After two more tries, she finally got the luggage tag right.
Alitalia’s first class section wasn’t much, but then it was only a short flight to Paris. It was a clear day over the Alps and the mountains were just spectacular. Got a good view of Lake Geneva. Just barely made my connection at CDG after changing terminals and going through security once again. Then on to the “gate” and the bus that drives you out to your plane. The bus driver actually did a couple of U turns before he found the right plane!! Air France business class was very nice, but seats weren’t quite as comfortable as Delta. Loved the little glass of champagne though! Our flight ended up taking off 50 minutes late. Not good. I couldn’t sleep at all, so just read the only English language paperback I could find in CDG and tried to forget that I had paid 11.50 E for it! Finally got around to watching “Mr. & Mrs. Smith” on the screen. Loved the black humor although the concept wore thin at the end.
Unfortunately, things went downhill from here. We got into Chicago 45 minutes late and in spite of Air France’s assurances that Air France personnel would help us make our connections, there wasn’t a living soul to answer questions or give any gate information at all! I ended up missing my flight which was the last direct flight to Salt Lake. Having no choice, they put me on a commuter flight to Cincinnati (somewhere I really didn’t want to go) where I would then take another flight to SLC. This added a mere 4 hours to my travel time. Amazingly, my little suitcase made the entire trip with me! I wasn’t holding out much hope of ever seeing it again.
It was a wonderful trip and as usual I can't wait to go back! Some observations:
They now have traffic personnel with radios directing traffic through the tightest turns and squeezes on the Amalfi drive.
A huge decrease in the number of people smoking from what it was 10 years ago. Love the new anti-smoking laws for buildings, trains, and restaurants!
ITALIANS OF ALL AGES WEAR JEANS! Jeans, jeans, jeans. Everywhere, any time of day. I even saw people wearing blue jeans at a very large, very somber funeral, with their respectful black tee shirts of course.
The biggest benefit of going solo: You become so much more approachable. People will ask you questions and are much more interested in you because you are definitely not the norm. Also, because you are not so involved with your travel companion(s), you become much more observant of everything and everyone around you. A very big plus!
I know this is long and very detailed, but I’ve always picked up little pieces of useful info reading other’s trip reports. I hope some of you will get some little bits here.
Buon viaggio, Fodorites!
Dear Dayle, what a beautiful, interesting and informative trip report. I know that I am not the only one that has enjoyed it so much. You are a role model for solo travel. Thank you so much for sharing your three weeks in Italy with us. I wish you many more beautiful trips!
Dayle, I have so enjoyed this trip report. Some of the places you visited brought back lovely memories of my trip this past Spring. I too, loved the little town of Spello and also Assisi.
I think it amazing that you drove yourself!! That is definitely brave.
Thanks for sharing.
Now that was fun. Brava!
Hi Dayle, I've really enjoyed your report. Too bad we weren't able to hook up in Rome (I'm in the middle of doing my report as well). Don't feel too bad about what you paid for that paperback, I paid 13.70E at the Rome airport because I really wanted something to read on the flight home!
Dayle, Nice report. Tonight is our last night in Rome after 22 great days in Italy. We just missed crossing paths at a few areas.
)
(
Loved it Dayle..Loved it. My only time to travel in Italy was when I was 15 and on a school "art" trip. You brought a lot of life...good life things...into this report. I WOULD love to trace your trip, except a few less churches for me (yes, I know the great art is in there)...
I'll raise a glass that you get a chance to return again and again!
Thanks everyone for your comments!
SusanP and MaitaiTom, I know we did just miss each other along the way.
Tom, we need a full trip report from you too! Please have a gellato for me - any flavor will do, but if you can find the gellateria right near the Trevi Fountain - they have Mango!
SusanP, I'm enjoying your report too!
Ciao,
Dayle
Dayle, what a great report, I enjoyed reading it to the end!
I could not get over the issue of changing planes at CDG - I almost missed my flight back to Boston! The security, TWO buses and then racing a good 3/4mile to my gate, whew!
But back to you, I too admire you for driving alone!
Thanks again for sharing so much about solo travel, too.
Dayle,
Loved your report and the news that all of the Pantheon can now be seen. What limo service did you use to get you to the airport in Rome. Thank you for the info.
Kadurk49,
Sorry, I didn't keep their receipt. It was a company arranged by the hotel. I had thought it would be less stressful to indulge in the driver to Fiumicino. Oh well, best laid plans!
To everyone who is reluctant to drive - it really is easy! Didn't even get lost much. Made a couple goofs, but I would pull over frequently to make sure I had made the right turn, or if I though I hadn't! If you are good with maps and have a good sense of direction - no worries. Having learned to drive in a stick shift car on the southern California freeways, not much intimidates me.
I didn't however, try to drive in Rome or Naples!!
Great report, Dayle. Was it too cold to swim in Amalfi/Capri? Glad you had a good experience at del Pallaro in Rome, that was one of the meal highlights on our trip this summer. Amazing you were willing to take on Italy on your own; I've had a couple of solo business trips to Europe, and I'm pretty ready to get back home. Would you do it again by yourself?
MRand,
Grazie! Yes, people were swimming at Capri and Positano. It was quite hot. The day I took my boat tour around Capri, I just wore a tee shirt and lightweight capris (what else?) and was perfectly comfortable.
I would go solo again in a flash! It was a whole different travel experience and, I have to say a better one, in several ways.
topping
Dayle:
What a great trip report. As a fellow solo traveller I know exactly how you feel, although I'm not quite brave enough, yet, to drive there. I just got back myself - a trip with 5 other women! I am going back to solo journeys from now on. I hope to get a trip report written, but have come back to a work crisis. I love your descriptions of the food and wine. I'm with you on that one too - one of the reasons I love Italy so much and, when you are alone, and the dinner bill comes, you don't have to argue over who had the salad and who had the extra this or that, or how outrageous the service charge is. You sound like my kind of traveller.
Grazie Barb!
I'll look forward to reading your report. Please don't make us wait too long! After all, which is more fun, reliving your trip or work?
I'm fortunate to have 2 very dear friends (one guy and one gal) who I have traveled with twice before. We get along great due to the fact that we are all very flexible. We have many common interests, to varying degrees of course, and try to accomodate each other's basic requirements as much as possible. They could not come this time and I missed them, but the solo trip was a whole different experience.
Driving in the Italian countryside is a piece of cake. Don't be intimidated.
Looking for your report!
WOW! What a trip. We will take a trip to Rome and Amalfi Coast in Nov. for 9 days. I will use your notes on our trip. I have a question. Should we plan on three nights in Rome and 5 nights in Sorrento? We thught about one night in Naples or should we stay somewhere else?? We will go back to Rome the day before our early departure. Would love to hear from you.
Marsha in Texas
Grazie Marsha in Texas!
The Fodorites have always passed along info that has helped me, so I'm glad I can return the favor.
No need to stay in both Sorrento and Naples. They are not far apart. But how much time you spend in the south and Rome depends on what your interests are. What are you hoping to see and do?
This is wonderful, especially so as I am now planning my 25-day trip to Umbria in July and will be spending time in Montalcino and Pienza and surrounds. Thank you!
Hi Dayle:
Thanks for this wonderful trip report.
I am inspired by your confidence and
openness to immerse yourself into the culture. You truly had a remarkable time because of your outlook.
My family doesn't understand why I wouldn't mind traveling solo. I'll leave your report around the house for them to read so they can have a better
understanding of it all.
Di
St. Cirq, I'm so glad I could give you some ideas. Really most of my decisions on destinations were made from trip reports here on Fodors. When I read about a town or place that sounded appealing, I would remember it. Also, from two previous trips, I had a good idea of areas I wanted to see more of!
Please do have as much Brunello, pecorino, and of course gellato, as you possibly can for me!!!
Dig,
Go for it if you want to! It's really no big deal to travel solo. Although I might qualify that with "especially if you've been there before!"
Buon viaggio!
Dayle,
I really enjoyed your trip report. I took the train from Rome to Chiusi and spent four days at the Il Giglio shortly after you did -- Sept. 29 to Oct 2. I liked Montalcino very much, especially the fortezza, and loved the view from my window.
Sant Antimo was a highlight but I took the bus and walked down that long, long road -- and back up to get to the bus stop. However, the visit was worth it.
I was solo in Montalcino and for a few days in Paris on my way home. I prefer traveling solo but haven't been in Italy for many years so joined a group in Florence to get a feel for the country. I'd go back alone now that I have a good idea of how to get around and where I want to go.
Glad you mentioned the jeans. I saw them everywhere and wished I'd brought mine for those rainy, chilly days. I had reserved a first class seat for the train ride from Rome and shared a compartment with three Italian women -- all in jeans and sneakers -- two of them wearing white Nikes.
I agree with your views on traveling solo but the people I interacted with made no comments about it to me. Several years ago I rented a car and spent a week in Ireland and everyone seemed amazed (and puzzled) that a woman would travel alone. Ah, times do change.
Thanks again for a great report.
Where are you going next?
Dayle, thanks for a fantastic report! I just read the whole thing through, and was loving it, but was especially thrilled when I got to the part where you rented a car!! I'm a frequent solo traveler to Italy, but my next trip will be the first time driving. And I'll be covering some of the same ground you did. So, thanks for the "pep talk!"
Grazie, Luisah and Nutella. We learn a lot here don't we? Luisah, glad to hear how much you enjoyed Montalcino too! It would be too small and too quiet at night for some people, but for me it was exactly perfect.
Nutella, have a wonderful time in bella Italia! Give us a trip report when you return. Can't wait to hear how the driving goes...
Buon viaggio!
Hi Dayle....good for you !!!
I enjoyed your trip and give you credit for just plain Doing It !
I had planned to go recently but didn't make it this year. Hopefully next spring.
Drop me a line if you like...I would like to hear more.
Ciao..... Tom Gandolfo
topping for Susan considering a solo trip, and others planning for Italy.
Hope this is helpful.
Buon viaggio!
Dayle,
Great report! Very helpful especially as I will be travelling solo to Rome in September.
Topping for wanderingirl. Buon viaggio!
Thanks, Dayle! I can't wait to read to it.
Topping for Aramis
Have to get a glass of wine! Really enjoying this.
ttt
Dayle: this ranks as a basic primer for solo travel in Italy. I recall reading it when it debuted and am so glad it got brought back for a couple of 'newbies' now!
bookmarking
I finally got back to this and noticed the date. Still wonderful, Dayle! I'm going to see if you've done more TR's since this one.
Your comment: I was green with envy when they shipped 30 bottles home!!! made me laugh. It was 95 euros to send 3 bottles of wine from Montalcino when we were there in 2009! The people who sent 30 spent a fortune!
Dudette,
Si, si! And they had it to spend....
Unfortunately, I was supposed to be on Lipari right now. Work is so awful I had to cancel my plans. I need a new job...
bookmarking
Welcome back, Dayle!
What a nice report!
Loved the report! Still a fabulous read after 5 years.
Dayle, I realize your trip was sometime in the past, but I have enjoyed your report in anticipation of a trip which will include a week in Umbria (splitting nights between a B&B in the village of Montone and an agriturismo outside of Orvieto). I'm working on packing plans; I will probably check in luggage, but want to pack lightly, just for convenience of moving around, and with expectations of doing laundry. As our trips are of similar length, location, and same time of year, and you did mention laundry a couple of times, what worked well for you in terms of what do bring/pack for the trip? Anything you would have done differently? I'd appreciate any recommendations! I am traveling with two friends this trip but after reading your and other trip reports, will do a solo trip next year; it sounds like an adventure that I would really enjoy.
italynovice,
Sorry, I didn't see your question until now. Will try to answer later tonight!
Ciao!
Dayle will have better info, but I'll chime in. Hub and I were gone for 2 weeks usually and we each brought 3 changes of clothing-including what we wore. We wore each outfit 2 times. We did laundry 2 times. He did a chart of what to wear so he would always have a clean change of clothing if needed.
Once we used a fold and wash, twice we used our hotel, but the rest of the time we went to local lavaterias. Hotel laundry is most expensive but it sure is a luxury to come home to washed and folded duds! The fold and wash was less than the hotel but very nice to have someone else do it. Cheapest was DIY-we usually met a fellow traveler or local.
Have a great trip.
italynovice,
Sorry it's taken me SO long to answer. My life has been extremely busy the last few months and I've been mostly absent from Fodor's!
I have to think back....back in time....OK!
Timing of my trip meant I encountered all types of weather, yes even in Sept!
Amalfi Coast area was very hot and humid to me - someone who lives in the desert dry climate of the UT mountains.
I took:
1 pair lt wt cotton slacks (wore on plane)
1 pair lt wt linen crop pants
1 other pair pants, can't remember what, but not jeans
1 cotton twill pencil skirt
1 cotton gauze multi layer skirt
1 cotton shirt
1 linen sleeveless
2 cami's
3 tee shirts
1 lt wt sweater
1 floaty summer dress (stupid fantasy idea, didn't wear)
1 rain coat
3 pr shoes - wore closed toe pair over, 2 pr sandals
umbrella
Believe it or not - all fit in a 21" roller - Eagle Creek Switchback on it's 3rd trip to Europe.
Amalfi Coast - very hot and humid, crowded buses, very sweaty = laundry in Rome
Rome - perfect temps, rain at night, pleasant breezes daytime, laundry at served laundomat,interesting experience
Tuscany - 2 day COLD front & wind - bought extra wool sweater, freezing, laundry at hotel
Umbria - warmer, perfect again
Wore everything except the stupid dress. Loved the linen, didn't love the packing wrinkles, no irons, had hotels do ironing for me. Skirts were my favorite - much cooler.
Wash undies in sink, cotton takes a long time to dry. Microfiber blends best - see REI, Travelsmith, dept store and read your labels.
I took a small backpacker's squeeze bottle of Woolite.
Hope this helps. Buon viaggio!
TTT for Steph - in the planning stages.
Dayle,
Thank you for your tip on Le Sirene in Praiano (and other tips on my itinerary). My daughter and I loved Le Sirene...although I also could have done without the steps! Loved the small town pluses like buying our fruit & cheese from the same store by the bus stop. I will do a full trip report in a week or so but wanted you to know the tip really made our Amalfi Coast stay perfect. Le Sirene: so calm, friendly - and incredible views!
Dawn
PS: I plan to pack even lighter next time!
Dawn,
How nice that you enjoyed Le Sirene! I stayed there after Ira mentioned it in his trip report and I did a little checking on my own.
That's how the forums are supposed to work! Not everyone ends up with the same experience, but "personal" recommendations here in Fodorville are worth a lot.
So looking forward to your trip report!
Thanks for your information and insight. I will be traveling solo early Oct to Cinque Terre, Amalfi Coast areas hoping for day trips to Rome, Florence and Naples. All your information is exceelent knowledge.
Hi Dayle
This is my first time in a forum! I've enjoyed reading all the great info people have posted. My husband and I are heading to Florence/Tuscany/Cinque Terre for 2 weeks in May. We have most things worked out (I think!). You had mentioned loving Montalcino (this goes back to a 2011 posting I read!). Do you remember where you stayed? Or is there another town you would now recommend? What about San Quercio? Our thinking is 5 nights Florence (with a day trip to Lucca in there), 4 nights in Tuscany (I have booked 2 nights in San Gimi, and am still not sure where the other 2 nights should be), and then ending with 3 nights in Cinque Terre. That should give us time to explore without charging around too much! We can always come back!
thanks...
MtlBabe,
Wow, I just saw this. I hope my old trip report was helpful for you.
I loved Montalcino, it was easy to drive in/out of, especially since the hotel did the parking! The views are amazing. My main interest there was Brunello.
I stayed at Il Giglio***. The hotel itself was nice and some rooms had incredible views. The owners are a little remote, which is defintely not normal for Italy. There are other hotels and apartments for rent in and around Montalcino, so you might look into those.
For my tastes, I would not want to spend a whole 5 days in Florence. Do you have a definite list of museums and sites you want to see that will take a full 5 days?
If it were me:
2 days Florence
3 nights southern Tuscany (around the Montepulciano/Pienza/Montalcino area)
2 nights San Gimignano
3 nights Cinque Terre
I didn't visit San Querico, so can't say. Just drove past on my way to Montalcino.
Hopefully, the next time I visit Tuscany, I will stay in a new little town. I always like visiting new places.
I have some friends who travel to Italy every year. Their strategy is to go to areas that everyone wants to visit, BUT - they stay in towns that are completely off the tourist radar. They have a much more authentic experience and save a lot of money.
It's a thought!
You better hurry. You are VERY late making reservations for this May and you options will be limited.
Buon viaggio!
Love your trip report!
Grazie lcc. Watch for the next one - Solo in Sicily, in about 2 months...
Very enjoyable report. Thanks so much for taking the time to share!!!
Will love to read the Sicily report when you get it completed.
bookmarking