Iwan2go went to the Dordogne
Jul 5th, 2014, 06:16 PM
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Iwan2go went to the Dordogne
First, a huge thank you to everyone for your help! This was a wonderful trip, very relaxing, and we’d like to go again! It seems like so long ago, but it’s only been two months…time to go somewhere again.
To tell you a little about ourselves, we’re in our mid-sixties, in good walking shape, love gardens, museums, good food, and getting to know our hosts and fellow travelers. We’ve been to Paris and France several times but this was our first time to the area around the Dordogne and Lot. Our trip was from April 21-May 3, and we went for three days to Paris, six nights in the Dordogne, and two nights in Toulouse.
There are a few things I wish we’d done differently - mainly booked tickets online for the Musee Marmottan Monet and the Gouffre Padriac - and one thing I thank God we did, which was to get an automatic transmission, which happened to come with GPS. I didn’t know we’d get the GPS but it was absolutely a Godsend to see that yes, this is still the D703 while going through what looked like some farmer’s field (I exaggerate for effect…but not much). We’ll get both from now on - it cut out SO much stress.
We left in the late afternoon from LAX, an Air France direct flight to Paris. We’d saved lots of coins from our last trip and plugged them into the machine at CDG for RER tickets, getting off at St. Michel. I’d hoped to avoid any stairs, but we must have taken the wrong exit and had to haul our bags up a flight or two. Someone put the exit number to look for on this board but I didn’t have it then, so oh well. Walked about a half mile to our hotel, Hotel Residence Henri IV in the Latin Quarter, near Maubert Mutalite. A lovely place to stay, and we had the top floor room with two balconies and an open view over the neighboring park. It was a very, very nice place, friendly staff, and a great value as we’d booked a while ahead. We had dinner locally at La Petit Pontoise, which was good but not worth 131E.
The next day we went online and got tickets to the Rodin Museum (not as necessary as the following day!), had lunch at Restaurant Pasco (very good, 67E with wine and coffee), and a lovely dinner at our favorite restaurant, Itineraires (only a few blocks away!). We were warmly greeted and had a wonderful meal, three courses, wine and coffee for 147E - great ambiance, service and food.
The following day we spent with Michael Osman, who’s always fun and a great source of information. We went by bus to the Marmottan to find looong lines for a special exhibit. Oh well, live and learn, it was worth waiting for. After lunch we took the Metro, then a bus to the Bois de Boulogne and the Bagatelle (couldn’t have found it so easily on our own, which was why we asked him to guide us). WOW, that was just magical. What a beautiful, tranquil place. We wandered around there til late afternoon admiring the flowers and trees; it’s just so refreshing. The guys, walking behind me on the road in, were propositioned by a woman in a van after we got off the bus - that was interesting - and on the way out, the door was closed. Ahem.
That night we tried a local restaurant, Le Buisson Ardent, which was fine but nothing great. Got a cab to Orly the next morning and flew to Toulouse, where we rented the car and set off for our B&B in Montfort, near Sarlat.
Our home for the next six nights - for that was what it became - was just wonderful. L’Ombriere, named after a castle of Eleanor of Aquitaine, is the home of Barbara and Andrea Polato. Barbara was a Professor of Biology and Andrea a photographer, and the most gentle, kind and hospitable couple you’ll ever meet. Our room was on the top floor of their stone house, with a view over the countryside. The second best thing was the location - it was right on the D703, on the way to Domme and La Roque Gageac, as well as a direct road (though a little confusing…) to Sarlat. The third best thing - maybe I shouldn’t rank them, they’re all the “best” - was the breakfasts and dinners. Absolutely made the trip!
We found L'Ombriere fairly easily, probably crashed, and went down for dinner with B&A and our fellow guests, a darling couple from Brazil (who spoke English, among about 6 other languages, and were kind enough to do so that night). Barbara made an amazing pasta - I wished for seconds and thirds but didn’t ask - duck breast, and panna cotta with strawberries. All the wines were local, as were the cheeses. What a great start!
The next day was market day in Sarlat, so we got over there and wandered around. I am glad we saw it, but even more glad we went back later, when it wasn’t crowded and we could see the buildings. We had a very nice lunch at Le Presidential, hidden away on a back street in a garden setting. The menu was salad, salmon, a strawberry tart for me, and ginger and raspberry ice cream for my husband. Cost was $75.00, and I would go back again if only for the ambiance.
Now it’s getting to be dinner time, so I’ll write more later!
To tell you a little about ourselves, we’re in our mid-sixties, in good walking shape, love gardens, museums, good food, and getting to know our hosts and fellow travelers. We’ve been to Paris and France several times but this was our first time to the area around the Dordogne and Lot. Our trip was from April 21-May 3, and we went for three days to Paris, six nights in the Dordogne, and two nights in Toulouse.
There are a few things I wish we’d done differently - mainly booked tickets online for the Musee Marmottan Monet and the Gouffre Padriac - and one thing I thank God we did, which was to get an automatic transmission, which happened to come with GPS. I didn’t know we’d get the GPS but it was absolutely a Godsend to see that yes, this is still the D703 while going through what looked like some farmer’s field (I exaggerate for effect…but not much). We’ll get both from now on - it cut out SO much stress.
We left in the late afternoon from LAX, an Air France direct flight to Paris. We’d saved lots of coins from our last trip and plugged them into the machine at CDG for RER tickets, getting off at St. Michel. I’d hoped to avoid any stairs, but we must have taken the wrong exit and had to haul our bags up a flight or two. Someone put the exit number to look for on this board but I didn’t have it then, so oh well. Walked about a half mile to our hotel, Hotel Residence Henri IV in the Latin Quarter, near Maubert Mutalite. A lovely place to stay, and we had the top floor room with two balconies and an open view over the neighboring park. It was a very, very nice place, friendly staff, and a great value as we’d booked a while ahead. We had dinner locally at La Petit Pontoise, which was good but not worth 131E.
The next day we went online and got tickets to the Rodin Museum (not as necessary as the following day!), had lunch at Restaurant Pasco (very good, 67E with wine and coffee), and a lovely dinner at our favorite restaurant, Itineraires (only a few blocks away!). We were warmly greeted and had a wonderful meal, three courses, wine and coffee for 147E - great ambiance, service and food.
The following day we spent with Michael Osman, who’s always fun and a great source of information. We went by bus to the Marmottan to find looong lines for a special exhibit. Oh well, live and learn, it was worth waiting for. After lunch we took the Metro, then a bus to the Bois de Boulogne and the Bagatelle (couldn’t have found it so easily on our own, which was why we asked him to guide us). WOW, that was just magical. What a beautiful, tranquil place. We wandered around there til late afternoon admiring the flowers and trees; it’s just so refreshing. The guys, walking behind me on the road in, were propositioned by a woman in a van after we got off the bus - that was interesting - and on the way out, the door was closed. Ahem.
That night we tried a local restaurant, Le Buisson Ardent, which was fine but nothing great. Got a cab to Orly the next morning and flew to Toulouse, where we rented the car and set off for our B&B in Montfort, near Sarlat.
Our home for the next six nights - for that was what it became - was just wonderful. L’Ombriere, named after a castle of Eleanor of Aquitaine, is the home of Barbara and Andrea Polato. Barbara was a Professor of Biology and Andrea a photographer, and the most gentle, kind and hospitable couple you’ll ever meet. Our room was on the top floor of their stone house, with a view over the countryside. The second best thing was the location - it was right on the D703, on the way to Domme and La Roque Gageac, as well as a direct road (though a little confusing…) to Sarlat. The third best thing - maybe I shouldn’t rank them, they’re all the “best” - was the breakfasts and dinners. Absolutely made the trip!
We found L'Ombriere fairly easily, probably crashed, and went down for dinner with B&A and our fellow guests, a darling couple from Brazil (who spoke English, among about 6 other languages, and were kind enough to do so that night). Barbara made an amazing pasta - I wished for seconds and thirds but didn’t ask - duck breast, and panna cotta with strawberries. All the wines were local, as were the cheeses. What a great start!
The next day was market day in Sarlat, so we got over there and wandered around. I am glad we saw it, but even more glad we went back later, when it wasn’t crowded and we could see the buildings. We had a very nice lunch at Le Presidential, hidden away on a back street in a garden setting. The menu was salad, salmon, a strawberry tart for me, and ginger and raspberry ice cream for my husband. Cost was $75.00, and I would go back again if only for the ambiance.
Now it’s getting to be dinner time, so I’ll write more later!
Jul 5th, 2014, 07:51 PM
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Glad to hear you had a good trip. Not sure what problems you had with the D703, though - it's a D road, yes, but a main thoroughfare through the area.
Minor corrections for anyone who wants to follow through on google or elsewhere: It's the Gouffre de Padirac and the restaurant in Sarlat is Le Présidial.
Looking forward to hearing more!
Minor corrections for anyone who wants to follow through on google or elsewhere: It's the Gouffre de Padirac and the restaurant in Sarlat is Le Présidial.
Looking forward to hearing more!
Jul 5th, 2014, 09:32 PM
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Right, thanks for the corrections, St. Cirq. That’s what I get for not looking at my notes (and rushing for dinner).
The D road was fine, it’s just that sometimes it went through some areas that seemed more like a side road than a main road, so the GPS was handy for confirmation. All in all, driving there wasn’t difficult at all. We discovered a few places we hadn’t intended, perhaps, but that’s the fun of traveling.
The D road was fine, it’s just that sometimes it went through some areas that seemed more like a side road than a main road, so the GPS was handy for confirmation. All in all, driving there wasn’t difficult at all. We discovered a few places we hadn’t intended, perhaps, but that’s the fun of traveling.
Aug 31st, 2014, 06:42 AM
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Also planning SW France for next September -- debating method from Paris to Bordeaux or Toulouse and whether or drive or join tour. Interested in the Bienvenue au Chateaux for lodging-- is L'Ombriere part of that group? Can't wait for next installment....
Aug 31st, 2014, 09:11 AM
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Thanks for sharing! I'm thinking of the Dordogne for 2016, so I'm eager to read about your trip!
I'm curious as to your hotel in Paris. How did you secure such a nice rate? Did you book directly with the hotel? Were they running a special?
I'm curious as to your hotel in Paris. How did you secure such a nice rate? Did you book directly with the hotel? Were they running a special?
Sep 1st, 2014, 04:26 PM
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Thanks for the wake-up call, guys, I have been lazy.
uhoh_busted, I love your handle and wish mine was as catchy.
Aliced, I don’t think L’Ombriere is a part of any group, but I cannot recommend it highly enough. indy, I did book our hotel in October (the trip was in April) and the room was 190-200 E/night. I almost always book directly with the hotel - the exception was a few years ago with the Hotel Brighton, which I did through Booking.com, I think.
aliced, I think it depends on how comfortable you are driving around, and what you like to do. We prefer to travel at our own pace, and are OK with driving in most places, so like independent traveling - at least, we have so far! It was quite easy to fly out of Orly to Toulouse, and I think the TGV goes to Bordeaux so either one would work.
uhoh_busted, I love your handle and wish mine was as catchy.
Aliced, I don’t think L’Ombriere is a part of any group, but I cannot recommend it highly enough. indy, I did book our hotel in October (the trip was in April) and the room was 190-200 E/night. I almost always book directly with the hotel - the exception was a few years ago with the Hotel Brighton, which I did through Booking.com, I think.aliced, I think it depends on how comfortable you are driving around, and what you like to do. We prefer to travel at our own pace, and are OK with driving in most places, so like independent traveling - at least, we have so far! It was quite easy to fly out of Orly to Toulouse, and I think the TGV goes to Bordeaux so either one would work.
Sep 1st, 2014, 05:56 PM
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OK, back to the drawing board. I was almost done with this now, and I closed the screen and lost it. Argghhh.
To continue…From Sarlat, we drove to the gardens of the Manoir d’Eyrignac, through a light rain. By the time we arrived it was pretty much pouring, so we hustled through the first section of gardens (shaped topiaries) and took shelter in a little gazebo. The gardens were beautiful, well worth the visit, and there was a lovely little manor house (which, I was told later, is occupied. Good thing no one was in there when I looked through the windows). We drove back to L’Ombriere, picking up picnic supplies and eating at the house.
The next day was our favorite. We stopped in La Roque Gageac, walking up to the top of the village and taking in the scenery, then drove a short distance to the Parc de Marquessac. It was amazing, with garden “rooms” of undulating boxwoods, allees of trees, wild sculptures and old stone buildings, and at the very top, a belvedere with a view over the whole valley. Even with a light rain, we could have stayed there for hours. We had lunch there, then chatted with a darling young couple from Washington state who had left their four young children with grandma for the duration (and wow, is she is a better grandma than me!).
Back to change for dinner at La Belle Etoile near La Roque Gageac, which was very good. My notes say that we had an amuse bouche of foie gras with creme brûlée, escargot in puff pastry, a ginger crisp with shrimp and an eggplant puree, fish with asparagus, and lavender creme brûlée with strawberries. And a few glasses of champagne and wine. Cost was 93E. Vive la France! Or at least, the food. Yum.
The next morning we set off for Rocamadour, going the back way on the D803 and D840, through Martel and arriving at the top at L’Hospitalet - so we didn’t see the town from the valley below. It was a beautiful, spiritual place, with the chapels cut into the rock, and the tiny, old Black Virgin statue. There was another interesting chapel with signed soccer jerseys from French teams in a display case. We walked around, had lunch, and headed over to the Gouffre de Padirac.
Well, folks, if you’re going to the GdeP, go early and get tickets ahead of time online. We were there during school break, and arrived to find a two-hour-long line of French families stoically waiting in the rain. We decided to cut our losses and come back the next day - which was a good idea, because there is another line downstairs to take the boats into the caverns, and another wait.
The house had now filled, with two French couples and one couple from Belgium. Because he knew that we spoke a little French, Andrea suggested that we try to speak it during dinner. Oh, boy. I took a year in 1999, prior to our first trip, and I my language skills are limited to present and future tense, and a lot of gesturing and facial expressions. I must have improved over the course of the evening, because the Belgian guy said, give her some more wine, she’s getting better. Most of them spoke English as well, which they threw in when I looked lost, and Andrea and Barbara translated as well. Still, I was somewhat proud of myself when I toddled up to bed.
to be continued…I don’t want to lose it again!
To continue…From Sarlat, we drove to the gardens of the Manoir d’Eyrignac, through a light rain. By the time we arrived it was pretty much pouring, so we hustled through the first section of gardens (shaped topiaries) and took shelter in a little gazebo. The gardens were beautiful, well worth the visit, and there was a lovely little manor house (which, I was told later, is occupied. Good thing no one was in there when I looked through the windows). We drove back to L’Ombriere, picking up picnic supplies and eating at the house.
The next day was our favorite. We stopped in La Roque Gageac, walking up to the top of the village and taking in the scenery, then drove a short distance to the Parc de Marquessac. It was amazing, with garden “rooms” of undulating boxwoods, allees of trees, wild sculptures and old stone buildings, and at the very top, a belvedere with a view over the whole valley. Even with a light rain, we could have stayed there for hours. We had lunch there, then chatted with a darling young couple from Washington state who had left their four young children with grandma for the duration (and wow, is she is a better grandma than me!).
Back to change for dinner at La Belle Etoile near La Roque Gageac, which was very good. My notes say that we had an amuse bouche of foie gras with creme brûlée, escargot in puff pastry, a ginger crisp with shrimp and an eggplant puree, fish with asparagus, and lavender creme brûlée with strawberries. And a few glasses of champagne and wine. Cost was 93E. Vive la France! Or at least, the food. Yum.
The next morning we set off for Rocamadour, going the back way on the D803 and D840, through Martel and arriving at the top at L’Hospitalet - so we didn’t see the town from the valley below. It was a beautiful, spiritual place, with the chapels cut into the rock, and the tiny, old Black Virgin statue. There was another interesting chapel with signed soccer jerseys from French teams in a display case. We walked around, had lunch, and headed over to the Gouffre de Padirac.
Well, folks, if you’re going to the GdeP, go early and get tickets ahead of time online. We were there during school break, and arrived to find a two-hour-long line of French families stoically waiting in the rain. We decided to cut our losses and come back the next day - which was a good idea, because there is another line downstairs to take the boats into the caverns, and another wait.
The house had now filled, with two French couples and one couple from Belgium. Because he knew that we spoke a little French, Andrea suggested that we try to speak it during dinner. Oh, boy. I took a year in 1999, prior to our first trip, and I my language skills are limited to present and future tense, and a lot of gesturing and facial expressions. I must have improved over the course of the evening, because the Belgian guy said, give her some more wine, she’s getting better. Most of them spoke English as well, which they threw in when I looked lost, and Andrea and Barbara translated as well. Still, I was somewhat proud of myself when I toddled up to bed.
to be continued…I don’t want to lose it again!
Sep 1st, 2014, 06:16 PM
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The next day we drove back to The Gouffre de Padirac with our tickets in hand, and went down into the caverns. Really cool, and the guide translated for our benefit. It was interesting to me, but not as much as La Roque St Christophe, which we saw the next day. Just my opinion. Drove back to see Sarlat again, without the market, and we were very glad we did. What a lovely town, with so many beautiful buildings and things to discover. Got some foie gras for gifts and a few things for the grandchildren, had dinner locally at le Villa du Roque (I don’t remember, but the receipt says 80 E).
To Lascaux the next day! Andrea was great about drawing little maps and suggesting quaint villages to see along the way, so we followed his advice and diverted off the road to the tiny village of St Genies. Beautiful, and we took some pictures. On to Montauban, an easy time getting tickets for an entry time less than an hour later, and off to see the caves. Even if Lascaux II is a copy, it was still amazing.
We drove down the Vezere valley, stopping in the beautiful town of St-Leon-sur-Vezere for lunch, rest, and walking around. Then to Roque St Christophe, a huge, long, troglodyte slash in the mountain which was inhabited since pre-historic times - look it up, the place is great. There were lots of interpretive things, statues, machines to bring supplies up from the valley - kids would absolutely love it (knights guarding the gate, a starving prisoner in jail - an active imagination could go wild here).
Back home, to our last night in the Dordogne. We had dinner with our new friends at La Petite Tonnelle in Beynac, then drove up to the top to see the fortress, lit up at night. It was so dramatic, and a lovely memory to carry of our time there.
I was concerned that six nights might be too long in one place, but we would have stayed longer. It was one of our favorite places - the bed and breakfast, and the area. Thanks to those of you who suggested that location as a good one - you were right. We would not have liked being more north of there - as we wanted to see more gardens, this was a great location, and we really liked being able to drive after dark along one road (translation: I got my husband to take me out to dinner. He’s not crazy about finding the way back in unfamiliar territory).
Next: Toulouse and Albi
To Lascaux the next day! Andrea was great about drawing little maps and suggesting quaint villages to see along the way, so we followed his advice and diverted off the road to the tiny village of St Genies. Beautiful, and we took some pictures. On to Montauban, an easy time getting tickets for an entry time less than an hour later, and off to see the caves. Even if Lascaux II is a copy, it was still amazing.
We drove down the Vezere valley, stopping in the beautiful town of St-Leon-sur-Vezere for lunch, rest, and walking around. Then to Roque St Christophe, a huge, long, troglodyte slash in the mountain which was inhabited since pre-historic times - look it up, the place is great. There were lots of interpretive things, statues, machines to bring supplies up from the valley - kids would absolutely love it (knights guarding the gate, a starving prisoner in jail - an active imagination could go wild here).
Back home, to our last night in the Dordogne. We had dinner with our new friends at La Petite Tonnelle in Beynac, then drove up to the top to see the fortress, lit up at night. It was so dramatic, and a lovely memory to carry of our time there.
I was concerned that six nights might be too long in one place, but we would have stayed longer. It was one of our favorite places - the bed and breakfast, and the area. Thanks to those of you who suggested that location as a good one - you were right. We would not have liked being more north of there - as we wanted to see more gardens, this was a great location, and we really liked being able to drive after dark along one road (translation: I got my husband to take me out to dinner. He’s not crazy about finding the way back in unfamiliar territory).
Next: Toulouse and Albi
Sep 2nd, 2014, 11:24 AM
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A few corrections and additions... I was confused - La Belle Etoile is a beautiful restaurant IN La Roque Gageac, and we had a table by the window, with a view of the quay. La Ville du Roque was on the road between Montfort and La Roque Gageac, and we liked it a lot.
Also, our dinner companions took us up to Domme before dinner in Beynac, for the incredible views over the valley.
Also, our dinner companions took us up to Domme before dinner in Beynac, for the incredible views over the valley.
Sep 2nd, 2014, 05:14 PM
#15
Very interested in your wonderful report, I like your style.
We're heading there in three weeks. I've been a bit concerned that six nights in Sarlat might be too much, but not after reading about your experiences.
Please keep it coming, we're also headed to Albi and Toulouse and Rocamadour, so this is very timely indeed!
Next instalment, please.
We're heading there in three weeks. I've been a bit concerned that six nights in Sarlat might be too much, but not after reading about your experiences.
Please keep it coming, we're also headed to Albi and Toulouse and Rocamadour, so this is very timely indeed!
Next instalment, please.
Sep 2nd, 2014, 05:53 PM
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Yes, of course Michael - Montignac was where the tickets were sold for Lascaux. My notes are messy, and I remembered seeing Montauban somewhere…I guess on the way from Toulouse to Montfort.
Sugarmaple, I think you will love your trip. The whole area of the Dordogne was just so beautiful! Everywhere we drove there were such lovely vistas and interesting historical sites. We never made it west to see anything there, nor to some of the things to the east - maybe if we hadn’t messed up on the Gouffre we’d have had more time, but who knows, you just have to go with the flow and let go of it. We talked and decided that if we’d been on a tour, maybe we would have “seen" more - but you know, for us, relaxing and enjoying the “found”/ accidental things is why we travel. It’s not a waste to us if we don’t check off all the boxes.
We just need to go back, that’s all.
BTW, I made a note of the tolls paid on the highway: about 14 Euros each way, which I’d squirreled away while in Paris. I know that our credit cards don’t work there (not yet chip-and-pin), and this way we didn’t have any problems.
Sugarmaple, I think you will love your trip. The whole area of the Dordogne was just so beautiful! Everywhere we drove there were such lovely vistas and interesting historical sites. We never made it west to see anything there, nor to some of the things to the east - maybe if we hadn’t messed up on the Gouffre we’d have had more time, but who knows, you just have to go with the flow and let go of it. We talked and decided that if we’d been on a tour, maybe we would have “seen" more - but you know, for us, relaxing and enjoying the “found”/ accidental things is why we travel. It’s not a waste to us if we don’t check off all the boxes.
We just need to go back, that’s all.
BTW, I made a note of the tolls paid on the highway: about 14 Euros each way, which I’d squirreled away while in Paris. I know that our credit cards don’t work there (not yet chip-and-pin), and this way we didn’t have any problems.
Sep 2nd, 2014, 09:10 PM
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We left Montfort in the morning of May 1st, which is a major French holiday, so the drive was pretty easy. I had read people’s cautionary stories about the ring road around Toulouse somewhere on this Forum, and was glad to see that there was an offramp and pretty much a straight shot to the train station drop -off.
When we got to the station, we looked for a EuropCar sign and didn’t see one, so asked some soldiers hanging around what to do. They gestured to the multi-story parking structure, so up we went the tiny circular ramp. That was interesting…glad we had an automatic, as we’re not used to manual transmissions and that would not have been the best place to practice. Ahem. At the very top, there were some signs with different auto rental places, but no attendants - so we just parked the car, took the luggage, and headed down. Turned out that was what we were supposed to do, no problem. FYI for anyone else figuring it out.
To back up - We rented the car from AutoEurope before leaving the US, and ended up paying $577 to AE, plus another $149 to EuropCar while there. No problems picking it up at the airport upon arrival, and we could shoot out the road north, avoiding the city on the way to Sarlat. Although I’m a pretty good navigator with maps, we decided that from now on, it’s GPS. Duh. Dinosaurs.
OK! So, got a cab to our next place, Cote Carmes, in a nice, walkable area of Toulouse. Darling, darling couple who run the three bedroom B&B, which was VERY nice. We had the largest room - which was huge! About 20 x 20 feet, with a big bed, seating area, and gorgeous bath with freestanding soaking tub and shower. Bliss. Breakfasts were served in the dining room, and included delicious homemade yogurts in little pots, breads, cakes, cheese, juices and cereals. We dropped off our bags and walked out to see some of the city.
Because it was a holiday, most places were closed, but we were pleased to see that the Capitole building was open, so we walked though it and admired the paintings and sculptures. On to the Basilica of St Sernin, which was beautiful, around the whole area, then to an early dinner.
I had read reviews of restaurants in Toulouse, and Bibent had a lot of negative comments, but I thought - hey, it’s Christian Constant, how bad can it be? We’d eaten at Le Violin d’Ingres in Paris several years ago and it was good. Well, folks, his talents didn’t transfer to Bibent. First, I’d read on the internet that they didn’t take reservations, but when we walked in without them (apparently now they DO take reservations), we were met by a snobby little waitress who sullenly agreed to seat us despite not having one. Not the greatest intro to a place. Our waiter was wonderful, however! The first course, asparagus volute with a foie gras paste-thing on the bottom was ok, but I asked to have the salty spinach with my fish dish replaced (no problem, they did it). My husband liked his cassoulet, however. For the price - 117E - it was very disappointing - only the waiter somewhat redeemed it. I decided that from now on, I’m going with the TA reviews.
Walked back for a long soak in the tub, and tomorrow, Albi!
When we got to the station, we looked for a EuropCar sign and didn’t see one, so asked some soldiers hanging around what to do. They gestured to the multi-story parking structure, so up we went the tiny circular ramp. That was interesting…glad we had an automatic, as we’re not used to manual transmissions and that would not have been the best place to practice. Ahem. At the very top, there were some signs with different auto rental places, but no attendants - so we just parked the car, took the luggage, and headed down. Turned out that was what we were supposed to do, no problem. FYI for anyone else figuring it out.
To back up - We rented the car from AutoEurope before leaving the US, and ended up paying $577 to AE, plus another $149 to EuropCar while there. No problems picking it up at the airport upon arrival, and we could shoot out the road north, avoiding the city on the way to Sarlat. Although I’m a pretty good navigator with maps, we decided that from now on, it’s GPS. Duh. Dinosaurs.
OK! So, got a cab to our next place, Cote Carmes, in a nice, walkable area of Toulouse. Darling, darling couple who run the three bedroom B&B, which was VERY nice. We had the largest room - which was huge! About 20 x 20 feet, with a big bed, seating area, and gorgeous bath with freestanding soaking tub and shower. Bliss. Breakfasts were served in the dining room, and included delicious homemade yogurts in little pots, breads, cakes, cheese, juices and cereals. We dropped off our bags and walked out to see some of the city.
Because it was a holiday, most places were closed, but we were pleased to see that the Capitole building was open, so we walked though it and admired the paintings and sculptures. On to the Basilica of St Sernin, which was beautiful, around the whole area, then to an early dinner.
I had read reviews of restaurants in Toulouse, and Bibent had a lot of negative comments, but I thought - hey, it’s Christian Constant, how bad can it be? We’d eaten at Le Violin d’Ingres in Paris several years ago and it was good. Well, folks, his talents didn’t transfer to Bibent. First, I’d read on the internet that they didn’t take reservations, but when we walked in without them (apparently now they DO take reservations), we were met by a snobby little waitress who sullenly agreed to seat us despite not having one. Not the greatest intro to a place. Our waiter was wonderful, however! The first course, asparagus volute with a foie gras paste-thing on the bottom was ok, but I asked to have the salty spinach with my fish dish replaced (no problem, they did it). My husband liked his cassoulet, however. For the price - 117E - it was very disappointing - only the waiter somewhat redeemed it. I decided that from now on, I’m going with the TA reviews.
Walked back for a long soak in the tub, and tomorrow, Albi!
Sep 2nd, 2014, 10:09 PM
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Because of the timing of this vacation (Easter, May Day, work), we were limited to only two nights in Toulouse. We debated about whether to spend our last day there, or go to Albi. We both wanted to see the Toulouse Lautrec museum, so we decided to take the one hour train ride out there. Left the B&B, took the metro one stop to the train station and tried to buy tickets for the next train, leaving in 45 minutes.
Great, the chip-and-pin thing again. Arghh, will I be glad when Capital One changes over. We couldn’t use the machines, and had to wait to buy the tickets from the counter agent. Take a number and watch the clock - or the other passengers, and try to figure out who they were and where they were going. The time of the original train came and went (40 minutes?), and we got a ticket for the next train. What-ever.
Thinking again about our arrival in Albi at mealtime (I always am thinking about meals, it’s France, hel- loo), I used the journey to look up restaurant reviews online. Found one for La Table du Sommelier that sounded great, looked at the menu, and called for a reservation. Am I clever, or what - somehow doing this on my iPhone, on a train, made me feel extra accomplished. Anyway, the young man who answered the phone told us to take the second stop, I think it was called Albi Madeleine. I thought I heard him say something about, “Do you want me to pick you up”, but I said no, we’ll walk.
We got to the restaurant easily - it was pretty much a straight shot - and had a great meal, which I didn’t write down, sorry - it was the prix fixe menu, three courses, and I do remember thinking THIS is really good. The wines were exceptional - the owner, Daniel Pestre, was the ELU Sommelier of the year in 2004 (that’s what it says on the receipt, whatever ELU means). We tried three different glasses (I’m surprised we didn’t need a nap).
So, we’re leaving (along with most of the other patrons, it was about 2:00 by now), and asked M. Pestre’s son (the one who’d answered the phone) for directions to the museum. He said, I’m going that way, why don’t I drop you off? Can you believe it? So we didn’t have to walk over there. They were SO nice. So if you are going to Albi, eat there (or drink there), they are great - food, wine and hospitality!
The TL Museum is not only interesting as a vessel for the scope of his work, but the building itself is beautiful. It was the Bishop’s Palace, completed in the 13th century; a fortress with views out the windows and stone interiors. The gardens outside were lovely as well, though we didn’t walk through them. We spent a few hours wandering through. I had seen his posters of course, but was really impressed by the technique in his early paintings. Wonderful setting and museum!
Next door was the brooding and dramatic Cathedral, made to show the power of the Church after the Albigensian heresy. I’d read a novel a while ago about the Albigensians, also known as Cathars (it was something to do with two gods, one being good, the other evil) who were brutally wiped out in the 12th-14th centuries. The Cathedral is made of brick, and rises almost vertically from the street. We took some photos, I did some more gift shopping, and we caught the train back to Toulouse in time for dinner on the Capitole square at Les Tenors, which was ok, and walked around the city some more.
The next morning, we got the cab to the airport. FYI, this was on a Saturday morning, and it took just 20 minutes to get there, and an additional 30 to check in and go through security. I’m not suggesting that this would always be the case, but we were pleased to get there with time to relax before the flight. Transferred in Paris, plane was delayed, got some Laduree macarons for our son-in-law, and flew home.
Looking back, we would definitely go back to the Dordogne. We didn’t, unfortunately, see enough of Toulouse to form an opinion, other than that it is a beautiful city. Late April - early May was a GREAT time to go. There was some rain, but it didn’t stop us from doing anything, and the foliage and flowers were lovely. Paris was warmer than the Dordogne for us. Temps were in the high 50s - 60s, and I wore mostly cotton turtlenecks and a cashmere turtleneck in the Dordogne. (I made a note in my book to bring more warmer sweaters next time).
I hope some of this is helpful to the next travelers to the region. Next stop, Nice in December! Yippee!
Great, the chip-and-pin thing again. Arghh, will I be glad when Capital One changes over. We couldn’t use the machines, and had to wait to buy the tickets from the counter agent. Take a number and watch the clock - or the other passengers, and try to figure out who they were and where they were going. The time of the original train came and went (40 minutes?), and we got a ticket for the next train. What-ever.
Thinking again about our arrival in Albi at mealtime (I always am thinking about meals, it’s France, hel- loo), I used the journey to look up restaurant reviews online. Found one for La Table du Sommelier that sounded great, looked at the menu, and called for a reservation. Am I clever, or what - somehow doing this on my iPhone, on a train, made me feel extra accomplished. Anyway, the young man who answered the phone told us to take the second stop, I think it was called Albi Madeleine. I thought I heard him say something about, “Do you want me to pick you up”, but I said no, we’ll walk.
We got to the restaurant easily - it was pretty much a straight shot - and had a great meal, which I didn’t write down, sorry - it was the prix fixe menu, three courses, and I do remember thinking THIS is really good. The wines were exceptional - the owner, Daniel Pestre, was the ELU Sommelier of the year in 2004 (that’s what it says on the receipt, whatever ELU means). We tried three different glasses (I’m surprised we didn’t need a nap).
So, we’re leaving (along with most of the other patrons, it was about 2:00 by now), and asked M. Pestre’s son (the one who’d answered the phone) for directions to the museum. He said, I’m going that way, why don’t I drop you off? Can you believe it? So we didn’t have to walk over there. They were SO nice. So if you are going to Albi, eat there (or drink there), they are great - food, wine and hospitality!
The TL Museum is not only interesting as a vessel for the scope of his work, but the building itself is beautiful. It was the Bishop’s Palace, completed in the 13th century; a fortress with views out the windows and stone interiors. The gardens outside were lovely as well, though we didn’t walk through them. We spent a few hours wandering through. I had seen his posters of course, but was really impressed by the technique in his early paintings. Wonderful setting and museum!
Next door was the brooding and dramatic Cathedral, made to show the power of the Church after the Albigensian heresy. I’d read a novel a while ago about the Albigensians, also known as Cathars (it was something to do with two gods, one being good, the other evil) who were brutally wiped out in the 12th-14th centuries. The Cathedral is made of brick, and rises almost vertically from the street. We took some photos, I did some more gift shopping, and we caught the train back to Toulouse in time for dinner on the Capitole square at Les Tenors, which was ok, and walked around the city some more.
The next morning, we got the cab to the airport. FYI, this was on a Saturday morning, and it took just 20 minutes to get there, and an additional 30 to check in and go through security. I’m not suggesting that this would always be the case, but we were pleased to get there with time to relax before the flight. Transferred in Paris, plane was delayed, got some Laduree macarons for our son-in-law, and flew home.
Looking back, we would definitely go back to the Dordogne. We didn’t, unfortunately, see enough of Toulouse to form an opinion, other than that it is a beautiful city. Late April - early May was a GREAT time to go. There was some rain, but it didn’t stop us from doing anything, and the foliage and flowers were lovely. Paris was warmer than the Dordogne for us. Temps were in the high 50s - 60s, and I wore mostly cotton turtlenecks and a cashmere turtleneck in the Dordogne. (I made a note in my book to bring more warmer sweaters next time).
I hope some of this is helpful to the next travelers to the region. Next stop, Nice in December! Yippee!
Sep 3rd, 2014, 09:33 AM
#19
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Glad you enjoyed your time here in the Dordogne. You might want to know that 'Elu sommelier de l'annee' means he was elected 'sommelier'. Past tense of the verb elire. It's quite a big thing,although it depends who elected, or appointed him.
Sep 3rd, 2014, 10:33 AM
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You may want to plan a future trip further south -- to see the Cathar castles (well, ruins, actually) at Queribus and Peyrepertuse. And also Montpelier, Peripertus, the lovely coast around Collioure, inland to Ceret, Tautavel --- Languedoc-Roussillon is an amazing region. It also has the most sunny days per year of any region in France. We spent the month of November there in 2010, and just loved every thing about it.
