Itinerary set – additional suggestions needed for 18 days in Portugal
Nov 25th, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Itinerary set – additional suggestions needed for 18 days in Portugal
Me: 30yo female solo traveler heading out for a 10 week adventure with the first 2 ½ weeks in Portugal. Budget is $1,000USD/week and I always opt to spend more on food than on lodging (most of which is booked). I will be traveling in Portugal from Jan 11-Jan 28 before heading to Spain. I will happily spend 6+ hours walking, enjoy fine art museums, am not terribly interested in ruins, drink a healthy amount of wine, am obsessed with food, and will go to any UNESCO site within a reasonable distance.
What I need from my Fodors friends: suggestions on interesting things to do and see, great restaurants that are under $25 for lunch/$35 for dinner (including wine!), perfect spots for sipping wine and watching locals do their thing, fascinating walking tours of the cities I’m visiting, and hidden gems you stumbled upon on past trips. Did I mention wine?
Itinerary:
Porto – 4 nights
Douro Valley (renting a car) – 2 nights
Lisbon – 8 nights (will rent an apt)
Sintra – 2 nights (need some help here on best plan-of-attack for seeing everything)
Evora – 2 nights
Thank you all in advance – I’m very excited to see what you suggest.
What I need from my Fodors friends: suggestions on interesting things to do and see, great restaurants that are under $25 for lunch/$35 for dinner (including wine!), perfect spots for sipping wine and watching locals do their thing, fascinating walking tours of the cities I’m visiting, and hidden gems you stumbled upon on past trips. Did I mention wine?
Itinerary:
Porto – 4 nights
Douro Valley (renting a car) – 2 nights
Lisbon – 8 nights (will rent an apt)
Sintra – 2 nights (need some help here on best plan-of-attack for seeing everything)
Evora – 2 nights
Thank you all in advance – I’m very excited to see what you suggest.
Nov 26th, 2012, 08:46 AM
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I was hoping you'd get some more responses as we've rented an apartment in Lisbon for January and I was planning on stealing any recommendations you garnered!
We haven't done much research yet, clearly too lackadaisical, but I did bookmark some very detailed discussion of restaurants in Lisbon over on Chowhound. It looks like there's a poster there who is a local foodie and has lots of opinions and suggestions which might be helpful?
We haven't done much research yet, clearly too lackadaisical, but I did bookmark some very detailed discussion of restaurants in Lisbon over on Chowhound. It looks like there's a poster there who is a local foodie and has lots of opinions and suggestions which might be helpful?
Nov 26th, 2012, 09:31 AM
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In which neighborhood did you rent the apartment? There are a number of good options for dining in both the Barrio Alta and Chiado neighborhoods.
As far as visiting Evora, Porto and the Douro River Valley go, you might be interested in reading some of the posts on the blog: www.iberiantraveler-ontheroad.com having to do with Portugal.
Wining and Dining in Portugal’s Alentejo
Pousadas of the Alentejo - Touring Portugal’s Alentejo
Exploring the Alto Douro Wine Region - Caldas de Aregos to Pinhāo
72 hours in Portugal’s Historic Port City - On The Road to the Alto Douro
As far as visiting Evora, Porto and the Douro River Valley go, you might be interested in reading some of the posts on the blog: www.iberiantraveler-ontheroad.com having to do with Portugal.
Wining and Dining in Portugal’s Alentejo
Pousadas of the Alentejo - Touring Portugal’s Alentejo
Exploring the Alto Douro Wine Region - Caldas de Aregos to Pinhāo
72 hours in Portugal’s Historic Port City - On The Road to the Alto Douro
Nov 26th, 2012, 01:18 PM
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I would see Evora as a day trip from Lisbon. It's only 1.5 hours on the train and you won't need more than 1 day (or less) to see the sights. There is no nightlife in Evora - everything closes up by 6 or 7PM, even in nice weather and on weekends.
Sintra - see the Pena Palace first as it will take the longest amount of time and is truly fantastic. Again, Sintra has no night life so you need to decide if you want to stay there or do 2 day trips. It's only a half hour from Lisbon. Good, inexpensive food can be found near the train station.
Ask for half portions of meals as the portions are large; sometimes the half portion was too much. Food and wine are very inexpensive.
Sintra - see the Pena Palace first as it will take the longest amount of time and is truly fantastic. Again, Sintra has no night life so you need to decide if you want to stay there or do 2 day trips. It's only a half hour from Lisbon. Good, inexpensive food can be found near the train station.
Ask for half portions of meals as the portions are large; sometimes the half portion was too much. Food and wine are very inexpensive.
Nov 26th, 2012, 03:03 PM
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I'm sure you know all about the wine lodges in Porto, but I can also recommend a place in Lisbon called Solar do Vinho do Porto with a port menu (a book really) -- amazing selection. Also don't miss the fado in Lisbon!
We really loved wine from the Borba region (near Evora)-- not well known at all. Another favorite is Requengos.
Not sure where you plan to go in the Douro Valley, but we really enjoyed Lamego, especially the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios with its incredible staircase decorated with tiles, fountains etc. Raposeira sparkling wine comes from vineyards nearby. From Lamego, you can walk the road to Balsemao (first discovered this in Lonely Planet) -- its a great walk through olive groves and vineyards to the fascinating little chapel in Balsameo.
One observation -- 8 nights seems like a long time to spend in Lisbon. You could shorten that and make a stop between Porto and Lisbon - Nazare is a cute beach town and you could do an easy day trip to Monasterio de Alcobaca, a UNESCO site, and probably my favorite spot of my whole trip -- absolutely gorgeous with a tragic Romeo and Juliet type story about Pedro and Inez. Highly recommended!
Portugal is one of my favorite countries -- you are in for a real treat!
We really loved wine from the Borba region (near Evora)-- not well known at all. Another favorite is Requengos.
Not sure where you plan to go in the Douro Valley, but we really enjoyed Lamego, especially the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios with its incredible staircase decorated with tiles, fountains etc. Raposeira sparkling wine comes from vineyards nearby. From Lamego, you can walk the road to Balsemao (first discovered this in Lonely Planet) -- its a great walk through olive groves and vineyards to the fascinating little chapel in Balsameo.
One observation -- 8 nights seems like a long time to spend in Lisbon. You could shorten that and make a stop between Porto and Lisbon - Nazare is a cute beach town and you could do an easy day trip to Monasterio de Alcobaca, a UNESCO site, and probably my favorite spot of my whole trip -- absolutely gorgeous with a tragic Romeo and Juliet type story about Pedro and Inez. Highly recommended!
Portugal is one of my favorite countries -- you are in for a real treat!
Nov 26th, 2012, 05:06 PM
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@welltraveledbrit I cannot believe I forgot to check out Chowhound – will do so ASAP! And please let me know if you'd like to meet up while there. IMHO I am a delightful dinner companion.
@ Robert, good question about neighborhoods. That might help you help me
Porto: Rua Miguel Bombarda; Douro I’m at Casa Cimeira-Douro in Valença do Douro; Lisbon will either be couple blocks from Rua Prata or in Lapa. And thanks for the blog tip, I’ll take a look.
@ adrienne: thanks for the food tips and good to know about what to do first in Sintra.
@Magster Thanks for all the great info! Do you have a favorite spot for fado? Your rec’s for Douro are great – thank you! Might do them all!
As for Alcobaça & Batalha, I was trying to figure out how to do them both as one day trip from Lisbon, but it’s looking like a lot of travel to make it work as well as a lot of rushing around. I think I may take your advice and stop in Nazare before going to Lisbon. Is there enough around there for me to do two nights and fill my time (with things other than reading, eating, and drinking)?
@ Robert, good question about neighborhoods. That might help you help me
Porto: Rua Miguel Bombarda; Douro I’m at Casa Cimeira-Douro in Valença do Douro; Lisbon will either be couple blocks from Rua Prata or in Lapa. And thanks for the blog tip, I’ll take a look.@ adrienne: thanks for the food tips and good to know about what to do first in Sintra.
@Magster Thanks for all the great info! Do you have a favorite spot for fado? Your rec’s for Douro are great – thank you! Might do them all!
As for Alcobaça & Batalha, I was trying to figure out how to do them both as one day trip from Lisbon, but it’s looking like a lot of travel to make it work as well as a lot of rushing around. I think I may take your advice and stop in Nazare before going to Lisbon. Is there enough around there for me to do two nights and fill my time (with things other than reading, eating, and drinking)?
Nov 26th, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Hi, bubbly, I'll leave it to you to decide whether my walking tour of Lisbon is "fascinating" or not, but I've given it to a bunch of friends who have all enjoyed it. It's posted here: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-of-lisbon.cfm
For Lisbon restaurants, there are numerous posts here if you use the search function and I've gotten some good suggestions. There's also this website that I check before going to Lisbon to see what's newly recommended,
http://www.spottedbylocals.com/lisbo...y/restaurants/ and I usually find something new to try.
For Sintra, if you have a couple of full days, you could see some of the more out of the way places. Maybe rent a car for one day and visit Monserrate (a beautiful summer home of a magnate lovingly restored), the cork monastery (Convento dos Capuhos), -- all these sites are described here: http://www.parquesdesintra.pt/en/index.php#.ULQk1ny9KSM /
and then swing over to Praia d'Adraga for a fantastic fish dinner in a little restaurant right on a small but beautiful (and usually nearlyl deserted) beach. This restaurant and beach are impossible to get to without a car (or taxi from Sintra wouldn't be too outrageous) and are reallyl worth the visit.
Not sure I would spend two nights in Nazare. It's beatiful, though very touristy now, and you would enjoy going up to the upper town for the beautiful views, the church, the ride in the cable car that creeps up the hill, and the hoards of women dressed in colorful traditional clothing selling snacks and the like. Good fish restaurants, but that's about it. But getting to Alcobaca and Batalha would be easy from Nazare if you have a car.
One last thing -- Lapa is a very nice, but very residential neighborhood of Lisbon. There is some public transportation but it's best served by taxis (which aren't expensive but you may prefer public transportation). Lots of nice streets for walking, past all the embassy houses, a fancy hotel or two, but not a whole lot more. I'd stay closer to the center, but you may be looking for peace and quiet.
My favorite mderately priced lodging in the Douro Valley is hands down Casa das Canilhas. Spectacular views, great location (about a km from the pousada in Mesao Frio and close to the small town of the same name with a decent restaurant). I'd say that a train ride from Regua or Pinhao east to the end of the line in Pocinho is a must. Many people take the train from Porto and get off at Pinhao and miss the real beauty, which starts after Pinhao. The train goes out and back with a short stop at the end of the line so you can get out and go to the bar/cafe, walk around a bit, buy some local honey or olive oil, a nice way to spend a few hours.
Sorry that this is kind of scattered, but I hope some of it may be useful to you.
For Lisbon restaurants, there are numerous posts here if you use the search function and I've gotten some good suggestions. There's also this website that I check before going to Lisbon to see what's newly recommended,
http://www.spottedbylocals.com/lisbo...y/restaurants/ and I usually find something new to try.
For Sintra, if you have a couple of full days, you could see some of the more out of the way places. Maybe rent a car for one day and visit Monserrate (a beautiful summer home of a magnate lovingly restored), the cork monastery (Convento dos Capuhos), -- all these sites are described here: http://www.parquesdesintra.pt/en/index.php#.ULQk1ny9KSM /
and then swing over to Praia d'Adraga for a fantastic fish dinner in a little restaurant right on a small but beautiful (and usually nearlyl deserted) beach. This restaurant and beach are impossible to get to without a car (or taxi from Sintra wouldn't be too outrageous) and are reallyl worth the visit.
Not sure I would spend two nights in Nazare. It's beatiful, though very touristy now, and you would enjoy going up to the upper town for the beautiful views, the church, the ride in the cable car that creeps up the hill, and the hoards of women dressed in colorful traditional clothing selling snacks and the like. Good fish restaurants, but that's about it. But getting to Alcobaca and Batalha would be easy from Nazare if you have a car.
One last thing -- Lapa is a very nice, but very residential neighborhood of Lisbon. There is some public transportation but it's best served by taxis (which aren't expensive but you may prefer public transportation). Lots of nice streets for walking, past all the embassy houses, a fancy hotel or two, but not a whole lot more. I'd stay closer to the center, but you may be looking for peace and quiet.
My favorite mderately priced lodging in the Douro Valley is hands down Casa das Canilhas. Spectacular views, great location (about a km from the pousada in Mesao Frio and close to the small town of the same name with a decent restaurant). I'd say that a train ride from Regua or Pinhao east to the end of the line in Pocinho is a must. Many people take the train from Porto and get off at Pinhao and miss the real beauty, which starts after Pinhao. The train goes out and back with a short stop at the end of the line so you can get out and go to the bar/cafe, walk around a bit, buy some local honey or olive oil, a nice way to spend a few hours.
Sorry that this is kind of scattered, but I hope some of it may be useful to you.
Nov 26th, 2012, 05:38 PM
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It's been several years since I was in Lisbon, so I don't know that you can trust my fado recommendations, but I really liked Adega Mesquita -- excellent entertainment (but the meal was terribly overpriced).
Not a lot to do in Nazare, but it's a beautiful place and anyway you'll want to spend the better part of your one full day seeing Alcobaca. You will love the seafood there. (Unfortunately, our favorite restaurant seems to be gone.) Be sure to walk up the cliff to Sitio for awesome views and lots of great places to eat.
Not a lot to do in Nazare, but it's a beautiful place and anyway you'll want to spend the better part of your one full day seeing Alcobaca. You will love the seafood there. (Unfortunately, our favorite restaurant seems to be gone.) Be sure to walk up the cliff to Sitio for awesome views and lots of great places to eat.
Nov 27th, 2012, 09:29 AM
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I'm more familiar with the restaurants in Foz do Douro then in the center of Porto. If you take the tram out to Foz, you'll find the popular Al Forno and the outstanding Pedro Lemos, one of the best chefs in Portugal (www.pedrolemos.net). And the Restaurante Foz Velha is worth the tram ride by itself (www.fozvelha.com).
Nov 27th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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If you need to choose between Alcobaca and Batalha, I would choose Alcobaca. We enjoyed the architecture much more and it's also the burial site for royalty. King Pedro and his Inez are there(see Coimbra and read about their love story.)
Loved the seafood in Nazare..Loved the food in Lisbon. Acorda.. And a restauarnt with that name too..
We did day trips to Sintra from Lisbon as we wanted to stay in Lisbon.
Loved the seafood in Nazare..Loved the food in Lisbon. Acorda.. And a restauarnt with that name too..
We did day trips to Sintra from Lisbon as we wanted to stay in Lisbon.
Nov 27th, 2012, 10:24 AM
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When you are in the north ( if this is on yur route) you must try the Broa, a dense bread of the locale. Very good...the full circle skirts of the fishermen's wives in Nazare are another unique item,. You will see them on the ladies and hanging on the window clothes lines. Portugal is a great experience.
Nov 29th, 2012, 09:38 AM
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Can you all help me decide between a few apartments?
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p388030
http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/portugal/P11328.htm
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p3166065 (this one is in Lapa, which seems a little far away for me, I like lively)
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p388030
http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/portugal/P11328.htm
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p3166065 (this one is in Lapa, which seems a little far away for me, I like lively)
Nov 29th, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Oh, and one more: http://loureiro2.wordpress.com/category/photos/
Nov 29th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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@ Bubblywine, would be fun to meet up if the dates work, feel free to email me on the contact page on my blog. At least one of us will be a delightful dinner companion 
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/p/contact-me.html
We opted to rent in the Bairro Alto but I liked the look of the Graca neighborhood too. Lapa was recommended but the place we looked at seemed a walk to the shops when I looked around the neighborhood on Google Maps. I always ask for the address and make sure to have a good look around the streets online, it's not foolproof but it does give you an idea.
I'd go with the first one because I like a place that has reviews posted, it also has a separate sleeping area which is nice though I wouldn't fancy the stairs after a couple of glasses of wine!
PS Please keep asking questions, at this rate I won't have to plan my trip at all, perhaps you could even cover the trip report for me too?!
http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/p/contact-me.html
We opted to rent in the Bairro Alto but I liked the look of the Graca neighborhood too. Lapa was recommended but the place we looked at seemed a walk to the shops when I looked around the neighborhood on Google Maps. I always ask for the address and make sure to have a good look around the streets online, it's not foolproof but it does give you an idea.
I'd go with the first one because I like a place that has reviews posted, it also has a separate sleeping area which is nice though I wouldn't fancy the stairs after a couple of glasses of wine!
PS Please keep asking questions, at this rate I won't have to plan my trip at all, perhaps you could even cover the trip report for me too?!
Nov 30th, 2012, 05:42 AM
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I'm not a huge fan of Rua Augusta. Although the one benefit is that it's pedestrian only so no traffic noise except for the cross streets. Also, 3rd floor probably means 4th floor. If you're in Lisboa for 8 nights, you won't be rushing as much to see things and you might better enjoy a more residential neighborhood with friendly corner cafes and shops. Check out the Principe Real area.
Nov 30th, 2012, 12:42 PM
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I think y'all are right about the first one and the pics are my favorite and the price can't be beat.
@lreynold: What a great walking tour you put together, thank you! And I always love trying hot new places, so that website will be a great resource.
Magster-do you have one or two wine houses in Porto that you like best? I think I'll do Sandman, but am wondering if there is another that would be really interesting to see. Or maybe one with exceptional, and inexpensive, ports for me to try.
I'm going to swap out a night in Lisbon for a night in Nazare and will hit Batahla on my way there from Douro and Alcobaca and Obidos before dropping the car in Lisbon.
Thanks for the rec's, Robert! I got some great ideas from the blog you suggested for Douro, as well. Question for those who have spent time driving around Douro valley: does this itinerary look okay? Is it too much to pack into two days, and if so, what should I cut? I’m also having trouble finding the train schedule from Regua to Pocinho – wondering what time the first train is.
Monday:
Dept. 9am to stop in Lamego for museum and stair case
Lunch: DOC Restaurante in Pinhao
PM: Quinta do Seixo
Dinner: Hotel
Tuesday:
AM: train Peso da Régua to the end of the line, in Pocinho
Museu do Douro
Lunch: Castas e Pratos
PM: Quinta do Vallado
Quinta Nova
Quinta do Portal
Dinner: Hotel
Thanks!
@lreynold: What a great walking tour you put together, thank you! And I always love trying hot new places, so that website will be a great resource.
Magster-do you have one or two wine houses in Porto that you like best? I think I'll do Sandman, but am wondering if there is another that would be really interesting to see. Or maybe one with exceptional, and inexpensive, ports for me to try.
I'm going to swap out a night in Lisbon for a night in Nazare and will hit Batahla on my way there from Douro and Alcobaca and Obidos before dropping the car in Lisbon.
Thanks for the rec's, Robert! I got some great ideas from the blog you suggested for Douro, as well. Question for those who have spent time driving around Douro valley: does this itinerary look okay? Is it too much to pack into two days, and if so, what should I cut? I’m also having trouble finding the train schedule from Regua to Pocinho – wondering what time the first train is.
Monday:
Dept. 9am to stop in Lamego for museum and stair case
Lunch: DOC Restaurante in Pinhao
PM: Quinta do Seixo
Dinner: Hotel
Tuesday:
AM: train Peso da Régua to the end of the line, in Pocinho
Museu do Douro
Lunch: Castas e Pratos
PM: Quinta do Vallado
Quinta Nova
Quinta do Portal
Dinner: Hotel
Thanks!
