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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 05:04 AM
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Itinerary for Venice

My husband and I are planning a 2+ month long trip to Europe. Plan is to arrive from the east coast US to London, then time in southeastern UK, Paris, and our next stop is Venice for 1 week. Dates not firm as waiting to hear about Paris apt. but hoping to be in Venice from Sept. 13-20, 2015. We are 2 retired seniors and this will be our first time to Venice. I have knee problems and walking down stairs is a slow go but manageable.

This is the itinerary I've planned. Would appreciate any advice, suggestions, criticisms as I have never been to Venice before. Will only be having breakfasts in the apt. as well as keeping snacks and drinks on hand. Will not be cooking dinners. Included in my days will be time to just sit and people watch or wander and get "lost."

day 1-Arrive by flight from Paris, take alilaguna boat to city center, arrive to booked apt. (still looking), settle in and then venture out for supplies. Wander over to St. Mark's Square in the evening.

day 2- St. Mark's Square, Basilica (be there when the interior is lit), Clock Tower, Grand Canal cruise on vaporetto.

day 3- Correr Museum, Secret Itineraries tour Doge's Palace-Bridge of Sighs and prisons, Campanile, La Fenice Opera House.

day 4- markets, Rialto Bridge, Frari Church, Scuola San Rocco. If time-San Giacomo dell'Orio Church.

day 5- Lagoon islands-Murano, Burano and if time Torcello.

day 6- San Giorgio Maggiore, La Salute Church, Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

day 7- Accademia, Ca'Rezzonico, Arsenale.

There is so much more I would have liked to see but so little time! Others would be San Zaccaria Church, SS Giovanni e Paolo Church, Ca d' Oro, old Jewish Ghetto. I'm sure I've missed some amazing gem. If I have please let me know! Thanks.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 05:14 AM
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Most of Venice is an amazing gem, and with 7 days, you should be able to see a lot of it.

Your list looks good except too museum-heavy on day 7, you could move Ca'Rezzonico to another day so you are not inside all day. I would be flexible about scheduling my activities to take account of the weather each day. Get to San Marco Basilica early to avoid the queues, September is still high season in Venice.

There are people here who will be happy to advise when it comes to choosing restaurants!
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 05:22 AM
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Just in case you did not know, getting around Venice generally means ascending and descending hundreds and hundreds of stairs because of the small bridges that are the only way to cross the city's hundreds and hundreds of canals. So you have a very ambitious itinerary.

Choosing a ground floor apartment near a vaporetto stop (and purchasing a vaporetto pass) might really help you enjoy your stay and maximize your sightseeing.

All the places you have chosen are highly rewarding. Just about everyplace you go in Venice will repay however much time you spend lingering there. If you end up at places you didn't plan but that thrilled you, don't grieve you missed things on your list.

I suggest you put Torcello at the top of your lagoon excursion itinerary rather than an optional last. It is flat, and it is most interesting of the islands.

During your time frame you will also need to be prepared for intense crowds during some times of day in some areas. You might plan some of your sightseeing around the idea you will see less famous sights during peak tourist hours, and visit the most famous ones early in the morning or in the evening. The sights stay open fairly late and in September daylight hours are long.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 05:35 AM
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Agree that Torcello is the most fascinating of the islands. IMHO Murano is just a shopping stop unless you are mad for glass tchotkes - we were bored stiff there.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 05:46 AM
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Venice is one of the most magical places in the world, a joy and wonder to visit. BUT ... I'd echo sandralist's caution: you cannot visit Venice without encountering many, many steps up and down. Depending on how much of a problem that will be, OP might want to consider a shorter visit to Venice, and adding days to one of the many other great places to stay in Italy that are much less stair-centric.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 06:21 AM
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Thanks all! I know I'm going to encounter steps throughout our Europe trip. I just have to go at my own speed and know my limitations. It's going down that is a problem. Don't know why but no trouble walking up steps. I survived 3+ months of walking, climbing up and down in SE Asia this past year so I know I can do it as long as I take it easy when my knees tell me to.

This is only a tentative itinerary as much depends on the weather, the crowds, my knees.

I planned the visit to Murano because I really enjoyed our trip to a local attraction by my home-the Corning Museum of Glass. It was so interesting to watch the glassblowers at work and to see them work their magic. I bought a few pieces which are a delight.

Would welcome any ideas for dining places. Thinking one nice splurge dinner but the rest will have to be more inexpensive-like maybe a budget of 100 euros per day for dinner for the 2 of us. Pizza with a glass of wine and a beer would be fine. Normally we do not eat lunch or if we do it's a very light meal. Is that budget for dinner reasonable??

Don-We will also have time in Florence, Positano, and Rome. Our stay in Italy is right now at 5 weeks. But I'd be happy to hear any recommendations.

sandra-When would be the peak tourist hours? We are early risers so do intend to be able to make it to lots of places right at opening time. Are there specific ones we should do first thing and ones for late afternoon? I'm still doing research by reading trip reports as well as the several guide books I've checked out of my library.

I really appreciate all the great feedback!!
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 06:55 AM
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<i><font color=#555555>"My husband and I are planning a 2+ month long trip to Europe… I have knee problems and walking down stairs is a slow go but manageable."</font></i>

Two months of steady walking in Europe is not going to be kind on problem knees. I hope you talk with your doctor and arm yourself with anti-inflammatory/pain medication. Chances are you will need it.

<i><font color=#555555>"Choosing a ground floor apartment…might really help you enjoy your stay"</font></i>

The better apartments in Venice are NOT on the ground floor. If you're going to rent a ground floor apartment, it helps to knows whether it gets flooded during Acqua Alta. Most vacation rental owners won't tell you the truth if you ask. The information is difficult to come by unless you spend some time in Venice during the flooding months.

If mold, mildew, and an assortment of creepy-crawlers hiding in wood aren't an issue with you, than a ground floor apartment might make life a little more tolerable. Most Venetians live on the upper floors. If you can endure steps, the truly gorgeous spaces in Venice are elevated.

<i><font color=#555555>"I suggest you put Torcello at the top of your lagoon excursion itinerary…it is most interesting of the islands"</font></i>

Well, you know what they say about opinions.

I have a friend who lives on Torcello, but the place bores the daylights out of me. I come from the school that states there's no place more fascinating than Venice. If you want to be kind to your knees (and your feet), confine yourself to Venice. You won't regret it. There is very little to see on Torcello that is worth giving up a precious day in Venice. During a short visit, if you really want to visit an island outside Venice that offers visual excitement, I would choose Burano over Torcello.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 07:33 AM
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well, to get to Torcello you have to go to Burano anyway, so you might as well see it while you're there [I agree that the island itself isn't much but you go there to see the ancient Basilica, last renovated about 1000 years ago!]

And I agree about Murano, but if you really want to see it you could easily fit it into a day's trip to the islands if you get an early start. [and the glass blowing is only in the morning anyway, I understand]

as for the rest, your Day 2 seems very thin, and you seem to be going up the campanile [clock tower twice!] Better than the one in San Marco is the campanile on the isolo di San Georgio - far fewer people and half the price. [and there's a lift!]

otherwise, to avoid doing too much walking, a vaporetto pass for the week would be a good investment, and will allow you to spend a day or two just hopping from one stop to another - a lot of fun and a good way of seeing quite a lot of Venice. and try to group sights together on the same day - for example the Accademia and the Arsenale are quite a long way apart. you could do the Basilica di San Marco on the same day as the Secret itineraries, and the Arsenale with San Gi e Pi. The Chorus pass which allows free entry into most of the churches in venice could also help - if only to give you somewhere to sit down when you're tired!
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 09:45 AM
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<i><font color=#555555>"to get to Torcello you have to go to Burano anyway, so you might as well see it "</font></i>

I know a few 60+-year-olds with bad knees. When offering time-consuming suggestions, I prefer to ere on the side of caution.

The vaporetto drops you on the west side of the island. Chiesa di Santa Fosca is on the east side. The walk along Strada della Rosina is rather long and VERY boring. Sure, you eventually pass Locanda Cipriani, but it is nothing to look at from the outside. By the time you get to the church, you'll start asking yourself, "Why do some people rate this place so highly?"

There are plenty of images of Torcello available on the internet. You can even walk around, using the Google man on Google Maps. See for yourself before you decide to spend a precious day there. It took me years of visits to Venice before I decided to take the time. As you'll see from aerial photos from the internet, Torcello is mostly overgrown grass. A far cry from the heady, mysterious <i>calli</i> of Venice.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 09:47 AM
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You have to book the clock tower in advance, and they only sell a few tickets a day to get in there. So if you want to go your second day, try to book online the month before here:
http://torreorologio.visitmuve.it/en/home/

Alternatively, go to the Correr museum when you arrive and see if they have any space available for the days you will be there.

100 euros for two for dinner should be no problem if you don't order three courses each every night. With that budget you'll do nicely. And eating light during the day is so easy in Venice, with cichetti and tramezzini in many, many bars all over town.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 10:12 AM
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We were in Venice last month departing on a cruise. The city is swamped with cruise ships and that brings in the crowds. The days will be crowded with day trippers, the evenings much better.

One thing we did this time was to take a "small restaurants tour" We booked it on booking.com. They take you to four local bars where you taste wine and eat the bar's small snacks. Our tour guide was great and we enjoyed seeing the out of the way local bars with history. Plus, we did not need dinner that evening as we got plenty to eat.

Good luck on the steps. My wife has knee problems. The up and down and up and down of Venice canal bridges cannot be avoided and is not kind to anyone's knees.

Know exactly where you are going when you arrive at St. Marks via the airport boat. It does not dock directly at St. Marks. There is a short walk through a valley of vendors just to get to the main square. You will probably be dragging bags. If you do not know where you are going you will be dragging those bags up and down those same steps just trying to find your apartment. Not fun....we just did it.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 10:14 AM
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Most of us ignore NYCFoodSnob's ignoramus comments, so that is more advice for you.

In September you will find that a great many day trippers begin arriving into Venice after 9am and stay until 4pm. If you want to enjoy strolling in Venice, then it is best to do it before or after. Most of the daytrippers have no use for art museums or history, so places like Torcello, with its extraordinary 9th c. mosaic and history as the original settlement of Venice bore them blind. They head for the mask stores and other shopping.

It is too bad you don't enjoy long lunches, because it is one way to give your knees a break, to sit out part of the tourist crush, and sometimes lunch menus are cheaper than dinner menus in the better places.

But honestly, if NYCFoodSnob is going to clog up your thread with insults and her stupid tourist advice, I'm outta here. You'll do fine in Venice following your plan. Look on Slow Travel for sensible advice about apartments with easy access. People over there will really help you. NYCFoodSnob could care less if she ruins your thread or your trip. She has loads of problems. Don't make hers yours.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 10:34 AM
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Thank you for the hearty laugh, greasy donut (aka sandradeelist). The fact that you take the time to read my posts and comment on them satisfies me just fine.

<i><font color=#555555>"She has loads of problems."</font></i>

Now if that ain't the pot callin' the kettle black, I don't know what is.

<i><font color=#555555>"I'm outta here."</font></i>

Oh pooh. Just when things were getting fun. See you soon, dear. Everyone knows you just can't resist.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 11:41 AM
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NYCFoodSnob-I guess maybe I'm giving the wrong impression about my knees. First it's my right knee that I had minor surgery for several yrs. ago-torn meniscus. While in SE Asia my husband estimates we walked and climbed at least 5 miles per day. I did a lot of climbing up and down-Angkor site/Siem Reap where we spent 11 nights. All over Cambodia, Burma, and Thailand. I managed ok.
Saw my doctor when we returned-no further damage to my knee plus I lost 20+ lbs.!
We prefer slow travel and sightseeing days with not many sights to see. Some could probably do and see all on my list in 3 -4 days. That's why I planned for a week. I do plan to take anti inflammatory meds with me as well as some good ointment.
I will only book an apt. that has an elevator if it's more than 2 US flights up. The one I'm looking at has an elevator. Marino. http://www.italyperfect.com/venice/v...n-rentals.html

annhig-Not doing the Clock Tower twice. On day 2 I mean Torre dell'Oroglio. You can go inside with a pre booked tour. The Campanile on day 3 is the bell tower and has an elevator to the top. I've also made note of your suggestions in terms of possibly rearranging my days and sights planned. I've read a bit about the Chorus pass and will check about the vaporetto pass. Thanks.

rialtogirl-Thanks for the heads up about advance booking for the Clock Tower. I didn't realize they only sell such a limited amount of tickets.
We normally order a main and dessert for dinner. My husband may order a starter or salad too. I'm hoping the 100 euros for dinner will be enough but that amount isn't set in stone. I tend to over estimate expenses and then be pleasantly surprised when I get back home. I was way under my planned budget for SE Asia and we did not skimp on anything. I know Europe will be more expensive so I will be prepared!

traveldawg-Did you enjoy Venice? I can relate to your wife and only hope that despite her knee issues she had a good time!
I will look into your idea of the bar/sm. restaurant tour. Sounds like it may work for one of our days. Thanks for the info.
Haven't decided on an apt. yet but the one I'm considering is in the Dorsoduro area and I have the info for the vaporetto stop.

sandra-I'm not much of a shopper so won't worry about that. We generally are up early while on vacation-around 6:30-7:00 am. Breakfast at the apt. We should be out the door by 8:30 am. Can't avoid the day trippers so we will make the best of it. Hope you're right as my main interest in Venice is the museums and churches.
My comment about not normally eating lunch is how we are at home. I find that on these long trips we've been doing we will stop for drinks and something light just to have a break/rest and have the time to recharge for the afternoon. For our SE Asia trip we'd be on the go before 7am, back to the hotel around noon with a 3 hr. pool/lunch break, and back out around 3 pm until 6 pm or so. It was the only way to deal with not only all the physicality but the heat index also. Before retiring we were limited to 1 week vacations. Since 2007 our shortest trip has been a month. So we will do lunch/drinks to keep our energy levels up!!
I do have the Slow Travel website bookmarked. I also have planed a do nothing but relax week after our week in Florence but before our 2 weeks in Rome.

I love all the great advice I've gotten. So helpful to a first time Venice visitor. Many thanks!
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 12:41 PM
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chris,

I also found Murano pretty boring. The glass blowing demo I saw was short and nothing special. Just making the pretty glass horses, not the real artistic pieces. I've seen that before so could have skipped it.

I next went on to Burano which I really enjoyed (photo ops), but didn't have time for Torcello. Wished I had skipped Murano and spent that time at Torcello which would have been more interesting to me personally.

My last visit to Venice was in 2005, so it's been a few years, but I had a fabulous splurge, 3 course dinner at Al Covo. Excellent.

Sounds like you have a wonderful visit planned. Lucky you to be able to visit Italy the first time for 5 weeks! Where do you plan to do your relaxing week?
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 01:00 PM
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Dayle-Thanks for the dinner suggestion. I think I need to do more research on the lagoon islands. I was thinking Murano would be similar to what we have here at Corning Museum of Glass. I definitely will visit Burano. Maybe I'll be able to do all 3!!

Relaxing week-leaning towards Positano. I know about the steps but another poster told me to look for a place near Via Pasitea. Want a place with a pool if possible as I understand the beaches are pebbly, not soft white sand. Others have suggested day trips to Ravella and Capri. Maybe Pompeii?? I guess it depends on much we need to just do nothing. We'll have 7 days so maybe 2 day trips with the remaining time just to be lazy.

Are the beaches in Sardinia more sandy than pebbly?
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 01:42 PM
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It sounds like you will be on the Amalfi Coast last of Sept which is a pretty good time to visit. Sept is still high season and should have good weather, but the worst of the hoards will be over with.

How much relaxing you get is going to depend on if you can resist the wonderful sightseeing the area offers! Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Paestum, all the Amalfi Coast towns. Capri if you must, but don't bother with a daytrip only. It's better if you stay overnight. There's your week!

I have not visited Sardinia - yet.

LOVED Sicily last year, but it's really a 3 week destination.

Do you plant to spend some time in the Tuscan or Umbrian countryside? To me those areas are much more relaxing than the Amalfi. Gorgeous scenery, incredible food and wine, lovely, easy drives. Touristed, but not concentrated crowds like the Amalfi Coast can have. Sept is very nice in the countryside!
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 01:44 PM
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It might be helpful to you to read my trip report from 2005. Just click on my name. I visited the Amalfi Coast, Rome, and Tuscany and Umbria where I drove. Had a wonderful time!
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 02:18 PM
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<i><font color=#555555>"maybe I'm giving the wrong impression about my knees"</font></i>

It doesn't matter. There are lots of people with knee issues who read this board for research. Only the individual with bad knees can know what is possible and what is overkill. You decide.

Feel free to ignore my playful musings with Sandralist (otherwise known as zeppole, and a host of other names). I find her quite amusing at times. She's a classic troll hypocrite, always calling people names and accusing other people of hurling insults, yet, when she does it, it somehow is OK. She's had a bevy of different usernames and tries, unsuccessfully, to hide behind them all. And then she has the nerve to suggest that other users have "loads of problems."

We all know what it's like to have a bratty kid storm out the sandbox, kicking sand in everyone's face, because the impudent urchin couldn't handle a taste of its own medicine. Welcome to sandy's world. Very d-list, indeed.
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Old Nov 1st, 2014, 03:15 PM
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The Doge's Palace Secret Itineraries Tour had a lot of climbing and there were some people who were almost slowing the tour down because they were exhausted so it went past our time. You know your knee problems better than anyone else, but to be safe, I'd leave one day for relatively little to do but options and keep reservations at a minimum per day, so if there's any day during the trip that you get tired, you can take the time to relax and still be able to see what you prioritize.
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