Itinerary for Family of Five- Thoughts?c Title
Feb 22nd, 2016, 03:12 PM
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Itinerary for Family of Five- Thoughts?c Title
We are heading to Rome in mid-April with our 3 children (9, 12 & 16) and have planned what I hope is a fun (yet not over-scheduled) five days. I have done a lot of research but the possibilities seem endless. Would love to know your thoughts and suggestions about what we've got planned.
Arrive early Saturday morning from NYC, drop bags at apartment in Spanish Steps, and then find a nearby cafe for some much needed caffeine and our first of many cornetti.
Abbreviated Heart of Rome walk via Rick Steves and have lunch somewhere along the route (takes us from Piazza del Popolo to Campo de' Fiori)
Attempt to purchase tickets for AS Roma game on Sunday afternoon @ official store in Piazza Colonna and visit Panthenon/Trevi fountain.
Back to apartment for rest/quick nap and then dinner @19:00 at Osteria Barberini.
Sunday- Villa Borghese in the morning, early lunch either at Babette or Buca di Ripetta (we have reservations at both). Train/Uber to Stadio Olimpico for AS Roma vs. Bolonga match at 15:00.
(If we decide against seeing a soccer match, the alternate plan is to have lunch in Travestere and then spend the afternoon in Gianicolo Parque.)
Rest at apartment
Dinner at Colline Emiliane @ 20:00.
Monday- Metro to Piramide, see Malta Keyhole (my 9 year old's request)
Testaccio Food Tour via Eating Italy 10:30-14:30
Afternoon options: Visit/walk around Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, Piazza Navona
Rest at apartment
Dinner @ Il Gabriello @ 20:00
Tuesday- 9-12PM Vatican/St. Peter's tour w/ Rome4kids
Either Uber to lunch at I Porchettoni OR walk to Pizzarium/Panificio Bonci
Afternoon options: Explore Travestere/Campo Fiori, Largo de Torre
Rest at apartment
Dinner @ Trattoria Monti @ 20:00
Wednesday- 8:30-11:30AM Colosseum tour w/ Rome 4 Kids
visit Mouth of Truth (also 9 year old's request)
walk to 12:30 lunch @ Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
walk to Palazzo Valentino English tour @ 14:30
Rest @ apartment
Dinner at Osteria del Sostegno @ 20:00
Visit Trevi fountain and have last gelato in Rome
Thursday- Train from Rome to Venice (36 hours and then head back to the States)
Look forward to hearing your input. Thanks in advance!
Arrive early Saturday morning from NYC, drop bags at apartment in Spanish Steps, and then find a nearby cafe for some much needed caffeine and our first of many cornetti.
Abbreviated Heart of Rome walk via Rick Steves and have lunch somewhere along the route (takes us from Piazza del Popolo to Campo de' Fiori)
Attempt to purchase tickets for AS Roma game on Sunday afternoon @ official store in Piazza Colonna and visit Panthenon/Trevi fountain.
Back to apartment for rest/quick nap and then dinner @19:00 at Osteria Barberini.
Sunday- Villa Borghese in the morning, early lunch either at Babette or Buca di Ripetta (we have reservations at both). Train/Uber to Stadio Olimpico for AS Roma vs. Bolonga match at 15:00.
(If we decide against seeing a soccer match, the alternate plan is to have lunch in Travestere and then spend the afternoon in Gianicolo Parque.)
Rest at apartment
Dinner at Colline Emiliane @ 20:00.
Monday- Metro to Piramide, see Malta Keyhole (my 9 year old's request)
Testaccio Food Tour via Eating Italy 10:30-14:30
Afternoon options: Visit/walk around Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, Piazza Navona
Rest at apartment
Dinner @ Il Gabriello @ 20:00
Tuesday- 9-12PM Vatican/St. Peter's tour w/ Rome4kids
Either Uber to lunch at I Porchettoni OR walk to Pizzarium/Panificio Bonci
Afternoon options: Explore Travestere/Campo Fiori, Largo de Torre
Rest at apartment
Dinner @ Trattoria Monti @ 20:00
Wednesday- 8:30-11:30AM Colosseum tour w/ Rome 4 Kids
visit Mouth of Truth (also 9 year old's request)
walk to 12:30 lunch @ Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
walk to Palazzo Valentino English tour @ 14:30
Rest @ apartment
Dinner at Osteria del Sostegno @ 20:00
Visit Trevi fountain and have last gelato in Rome
Thursday- Train from Rome to Venice (36 hours and then head back to the States)
Look forward to hearing your input. Thanks in advance!
Feb 22nd, 2016, 03:36 PM
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The Knights of Malta keyhole is on the Aventine which is a hill - therefore a long climb from the Pyramide metro stop. I would take a cab there as it is literally a minute's worth of looking through a keyhole for a lot of bother to get there. Take a walk there on Google street view to see what I mean.
Mouth of Truth - be prepared for very long lines. It's been over 50 years since 'Roman Holiday' but this spot has taken on a life of its own. There is an official there to make sure no one takes too long with a photo and if you muck around too much they will shout at you to move on.
You say your're not over-scheduled and yet you have a dinner reservation every night. This doesn't allow for the spontaneous or the 'tired kids/adults' eventualities. Sometimes just taking a walk and finding somewhere beautiful to eat is part of the Roman experience.
Mouth of Truth - be prepared for very long lines. It's been over 50 years since 'Roman Holiday' but this spot has taken on a life of its own. There is an official there to make sure no one takes too long with a photo and if you muck around too much they will shout at you to move on.
You say your're not over-scheduled and yet you have a dinner reservation every night. This doesn't allow for the spontaneous or the 'tired kids/adults' eventualities. Sometimes just taking a walk and finding somewhere beautiful to eat is part of the Roman experience.
Feb 22nd, 2016, 04:22 PM
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With an apartment, you might have dinner at home one night, perhaps later in your visit. Make shopping at a local market or supermarket part of your sightseeing. Your family may enjoy seeing the different products and a bit of everyday life as they search for their new favorites in the supermarket aisles.
My niece, albeit age 18, wanted to visit the famous keyhole and was pretty disappointed with it after the long trek up the hill from the subway. Not sure where your food tour begins and ends, but a taxi to the keyhole might be a good idea.
My niece, albeit age 18, wanted to visit the famous keyhole and was pretty disappointed with it after the long trek up the hill from the subway. Not sure where your food tour begins and ends, but a taxi to the keyhole might be a good idea.
Feb 22nd, 2016, 04:38 PM
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Good to know about Malta Keyhole and Mouth of Truth. I will prepare my headstrong 9 year old for long walks & lines and leave some of those decisions up to him.
As for having a dinner reservation every night, we have found that by planning ahead we have options and that they aren't necessarily MUSTS. I would say that when we travel there are at least 1 or 2 evenings where we change the plan and do something different for dinner.
And while I LOVE to cook, it's not what I want to do on vacation. We will have some breakfast type foods in the apartment and some snacks, but lunches and dinners are someone else's responsibility!
As for having a dinner reservation every night, we have found that by planning ahead we have options and that they aren't necessarily MUSTS. I would say that when we travel there are at least 1 or 2 evenings where we change the plan and do something different for dinner.
And while I LOVE to cook, it's not what I want to do on vacation. We will have some breakfast type foods in the apartment and some snacks, but lunches and dinners are someone else's responsibility!
Feb 22nd, 2016, 05:43 PM
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The Mouth of Truth and the Keyhole are a short walk from each other so if you really want to see both you should do them at the same time. Right now you have them on different days. But if this is your families first trip to Rome I might reconsider even including either of them.
If you do go to the Mouth of Truth, go inside the church. It's rather unusual for Roman churches and quite nice AND there is hardly anyone inside it (they are all on line outside to stick their hands in the mouth). And while you are there check out the temples across the street.
www.pbase.com/annforcier/image/161273763
And if you go up to see the Keyhole View go into the church just down the street (you pass it walking up there form the Mouth of Truth) - it's also beautiful, usually empty and quite different from other churches. The park right next to it has a nice view (better than the keyhole, though of course not through a key hole).
www.pbase.com/annforcier/image/161273766
If you do go to the Mouth of Truth, go inside the church. It's rather unusual for Roman churches and quite nice AND there is hardly anyone inside it (they are all on line outside to stick their hands in the mouth). And while you are there check out the temples across the street.
www.pbase.com/annforcier/image/161273763
And if you go up to see the Keyhole View go into the church just down the street (you pass it walking up there form the Mouth of Truth) - it's also beautiful, usually empty and quite different from other churches. The park right next to it has a nice view (better than the keyhole, though of course not through a key hole).
www.pbase.com/annforcier/image/161273766
Feb 23rd, 2016, 12:54 AM
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Your son might be interested to know that the Villa of the Knights of Malta is actually an independent "country", not part of Italy. There are private tours, in limited numbers, of the inside of the villa, which is more interesting than the famous keyhole.
There are several churches near the Villa of the Knights of Malta. I think Isabel probably means the Basilica of Santa Sabina, which is an early Christian basilica built in the early 5th century, shortly before the fall of the Roman Empire. On the side of the church is a very rare ancient Roman bas relief wooden door, illustrating Biblical scenes. Since wood usually isn't well preserved for long periods, this door represents one of a very few examples of ancient Roman wood carving.
The inside of the church was somewhat modified in the middle ages, and even more modified in the 17th century when the Baroque craze hit Rome, but about 100 years ago all the 16th century modifications were removed, so it now is pretty much as it was in ancient times. There's an original mosaic over the main door that has the original dedication of the church in Latin. It shows two women, one Greek and one Hebrew, which represent the two branches of Christianity in those days.
Just past the basilica is the city orange grove, from which you can get great views of the Tiber and the area on the other side of the river. At that point, you might as well keep walking down the hill in the direction of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, where the mouth of truth is. You'll pass the city rose garden, which usually opens in late April, so I don't know if you'll be able to go in.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin is a very interesting basilica, dating from the 8th century. It belongs to a community of Greek-rite Catholics, who originally fled to Rome to escape the iconoclasts in (I forget which) century. It has a beautiful floor of medieval mosaics, of a type called Cosmatesque, after the family who specialized in this type of mosaic. There are the relics of many saints in the church, one of which is supposed to be the head of St. Valentine.
Also in this vicinity are the Baths of Caracalla, one of the most beautiful of remaining Roman bath structures. You could really spend a whole day in this area, and the Mouth of Truth and the Keyhole wouldn't be among the most interesting things you'd see.
There are several churches near the Villa of the Knights of Malta. I think Isabel probably means the Basilica of Santa Sabina, which is an early Christian basilica built in the early 5th century, shortly before the fall of the Roman Empire. On the side of the church is a very rare ancient Roman bas relief wooden door, illustrating Biblical scenes. Since wood usually isn't well preserved for long periods, this door represents one of a very few examples of ancient Roman wood carving.
The inside of the church was somewhat modified in the middle ages, and even more modified in the 17th century when the Baroque craze hit Rome, but about 100 years ago all the 16th century modifications were removed, so it now is pretty much as it was in ancient times. There's an original mosaic over the main door that has the original dedication of the church in Latin. It shows two women, one Greek and one Hebrew, which represent the two branches of Christianity in those days.
Just past the basilica is the city orange grove, from which you can get great views of the Tiber and the area on the other side of the river. At that point, you might as well keep walking down the hill in the direction of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, where the mouth of truth is. You'll pass the city rose garden, which usually opens in late April, so I don't know if you'll be able to go in.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin is a very interesting basilica, dating from the 8th century. It belongs to a community of Greek-rite Catholics, who originally fled to Rome to escape the iconoclasts in (I forget which) century. It has a beautiful floor of medieval mosaics, of a type called Cosmatesque, after the family who specialized in this type of mosaic. There are the relics of many saints in the church, one of which is supposed to be the head of St. Valentine.
Also in this vicinity are the Baths of Caracalla, one of the most beautiful of remaining Roman bath structures. You could really spend a whole day in this area, and the Mouth of Truth and the Keyhole wouldn't be among the most interesting things you'd see.
Feb 23rd, 2016, 03:42 AM
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I totally understand the desire to have someone else cook on vacation--I am the same way when I rent an apartment in Italy. Still, a visit to the supermarket may be interesting for your entire family, even if to just find breakfast food and snacks. It can be a way to connect to the Italy of today after viewing all the ancient ruins, just like the soccer match will be.
I like your plan for one sight in the morning and one in the afternoon -- leaves plenty of room for gelato breaks.
I like your plan for one sight in the morning and one in the afternoon -- leaves plenty of room for gelato breaks.
Feb 23rd, 2016, 04:12 AM
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I can't find that you have allocated any time to the Roman Forum - IMHO probably the single most important ancient sight in Rome. However, it will take several hours to see and you would need to rearrange something else.
As for cooking - I'm with you. I don't cook at home and there is no way I would do so on vacation. Will go to street markets and bring back to the hotel beverages, baked goods and fruit - if not enough is provided by the hotel - but nothing more complicated.
As for cooking - I'm with you. I don't cook at home and there is no way I would do so on vacation. Will go to street markets and bring back to the hotel beverages, baked goods and fruit - if not enough is provided by the hotel - but nothing more complicated.
Feb 23rd, 2016, 05:15 AM
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I love a good street market and could spend hours. In fact, one of the reasons we chose to live in Gramercy Park was so that I could be close to the Union Square Market. Our Food tour takes us to one and I'm hoping to stumble across at least one more during our stay.
As for the Forum and Palantine Hill, that is part of our 3 hour Colosseum tour-I know one could spend a full day there, but for the sake of everyone's sanity, we are doing kid-centered tours for both the Colosseum and the Vatican.
As for the Forum and Palantine Hill, that is part of our 3 hour Colosseum tour-I know one could spend a full day there, but for the sake of everyone's sanity, we are doing kid-centered tours for both the Colosseum and the Vatican.
Feb 23rd, 2016, 05:17 AM
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Ellennem, what are your thoughts about taking the kids to the soccer match on Sunday? We have mixed feelings. Love that it will be a slice of local everyday life, but are a little concerned that it will be too rowdy and not really family-friendly.
Feb 23rd, 2016, 09:49 AM
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Dayle- All three kids play soccer, but the youngest is a big FIFA fan, (Barcelona in particular). We thought it would be something they'd always remember and give us a peek into what another country's sports rituals are like. Again, we are just not sure if it's the best use of our time/money while we are there. And I'm not super excited about making the trek to/from the stadium.
Feb 23rd, 2016, 10:08 AM
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Hi...
Ditto on the recommendation to visit Santa Sabina. It is an <em>ancient Roman</em> Christian church, unlike so many of the medieval and Renaissance churches you see all over Europe. (Though the interior decoration has been re-done since the 5th c., the layout and structure is pretty much the same.)
It's likely the closest you will ever get to experiencing what 5th century Christian's did.
There is a claim that the doors show the earliest depiction currently known of Christ on the Cross...but that isn't certain by any means.
The walk up the hill is not bad, either.
ssander
Ditto on the recommendation to visit Santa Sabina. It is an <em>ancient Roman</em> Christian church, unlike so many of the medieval and Renaissance churches you see all over Europe. (Though the interior decoration has been re-done since the 5th c., the layout and structure is pretty much the same.)
It's likely the closest you will ever get to experiencing what 5th century Christian's did.
There is a claim that the doors show the earliest depiction currently known of Christ on the Cross...but that isn't certain by any means.
The walk up the hill is not bad, either.
ssander
Feb 23rd, 2016, 04:47 PM
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I am not sure about soccer matches in Italy, but I recall going to a Mets game with visitors from Switzerland. They were surprised by what a family affair it was. Others can advise if you will see families in the stands in Italy and if it will be too rowdy. It is a big commitment of time.
You might decide to make an even bigger commitment of time and shake things up a bit by using your Sunday or another day to take a daytrip to Orvieto. It is easy to decide this at the very last minute based on the weather. Orvieto is a pretty hilltown which would be a nice contrast to Rome and Venice. It is an hour from Rome by train. From the Orvieto train station, you ride a funicular up to the top of the hill. Your kids might enjoy the tour of Orvieto's underground cave system or the descent into the well.
I like to suggest ordinary present-day activities to visitors because sometimes that may may the biggest impression, especially on a child. ("Look, the fire trucks are yellow." "We have to put out the garbage this way, not the same way at home.")
(actravelgirl, we are practically neighbors.)
You might decide to make an even bigger commitment of time and shake things up a bit by using your Sunday or another day to take a daytrip to Orvieto. It is easy to decide this at the very last minute based on the weather. Orvieto is a pretty hilltown which would be a nice contrast to Rome and Venice. It is an hour from Rome by train. From the Orvieto train station, you ride a funicular up to the top of the hill. Your kids might enjoy the tour of Orvieto's underground cave system or the descent into the well.
I like to suggest ordinary present-day activities to visitors because sometimes that may may the biggest impression, especially on a child. ("Look, the fire trucks are yellow." "We have to put out the garbage this way, not the same way at home.")
(actravelgirl, we are practically neighbors.)
Feb 25th, 2016, 10:00 AM
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Thank you for all of the information about the churches near the Keyhole & Mouth. Will add them to our ever-growing list of "unplanned options". I have been using Google Maps to plan our trip but once I used "street View", I realized the Knights of Malta Keyhole wasn't as close to our food tour as I had thought.
As an update, we have decided NOT to go to the soccer match on Sunday- too many moving parts, unknowns, etc. I will be reworking our itinerary a bit and this should give us a little more downtime to explore and get lost, which IMO is the best way to see a city!
Thank you to everyone for all of the good information!
As an update, we have decided NOT to go to the soccer match on Sunday- too many moving parts, unknowns, etc. I will be reworking our itinerary a bit and this should give us a little more downtime to explore and get lost, which IMO is the best way to see a city!
Thank you to everyone for all of the good information!
Feb 25th, 2016, 10:55 AM
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Which match were you thinking of going to? There's a LOT of insight you can get (and a lot of new words the kids can learn, which you need to prevent them from Googling) at a calcio match. And having gone to some soccer matches overseas, it's a great cultural experience.
Seriously, if one or more really want to go, then ensure they go. It'll be a LOT more fun than puttering around another day. You're building memories in the hobbits - the match will stick more than yet another museum/ruin/church/obelisk. And Roma is in a tight race for a Champions League berth in 2016-17, so there's a lot at stake.
Roma has two home matches on a Sunday in April. If you were looking for tickets to the Napoli match, you'd need to purchase asap. Regionally, you're dealing with a rival; and functionally, Napoli is 2nd and Roma is 4th right now. If for the Bologna match, you could probably wait but not long. Either way, I'd buy asap and pick them up in Rome.
In our situation, I'd take my boy to the match and have Her Majesty and Her Highness hang out together for the day. I took my non-soccerphilic Dad to a match in Spain and he loved it.
Seriously, if one or more really want to go, then ensure they go. It'll be a LOT more fun than puttering around another day. You're building memories in the hobbits - the match will stick more than yet another museum/ruin/church/obelisk. And Roma is in a tight race for a Champions League berth in 2016-17, so there's a lot at stake.
Roma has two home matches on a Sunday in April. If you were looking for tickets to the Napoli match, you'd need to purchase asap. Regionally, you're dealing with a rival; and functionally, Napoli is 2nd and Roma is 4th right now. If for the Bologna match, you could probably wait but not long. Either way, I'd buy asap and pick them up in Rome.
In our situation, I'd take my boy to the match and have Her Majesty and Her Highness hang out together for the day. I took my non-soccerphilic Dad to a match in Spain and he loved it.
Feb 25th, 2016, 11:14 AM
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You may find tickets are sold out anyway, with the competition being as tight as it is. Drop by the AC Roma store if you're in Piazza Colonna and see what they say. I agree that it is a great experience and they will direct you to buy tickets in a seating area away from the areas where the more vocal and active fans are located.
Feb 25th, 2016, 11:15 AM
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A major highlight of one of my many trips to Italy was a soccer (football) match outside Firenze. I wouldn't be so quick to eliminate it. My kids absolutely loved it. And this wasn't a major match - it was local, but still incredibly interesting and vivacious.
Feb 25th, 2016, 12:21 PM
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One of the more interesting churches for kids, I think, is San Clemente, which is near the Colosseum. It's a church on top of an old church, on top of a Mithraic temple, built on a Roman villa. Of of which you can view.
Don't forget to buy the advance tickets for the Borghese Gallery.
A place that we love to pick up slices of pizza is Pizza Florida, which is on via Florida. It has the advantage of being right next to the cat sanctuary at Torre Argentina. Which is also the place where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Pizza Florida always has a great selection of just-baked pizza by the slice. Very little seating, but there are benches outside.
You have tours scheduled for three consecutive mornings (though one doesn't start until 10:30). It's partly a matter of personal preference, but when we travel, I don't like being so committed to a certain schedule. What if it rains, or if it's a particularly nice day, and your group would rather be outside wandering the ruins than inside a museum? If you self-guide yourselves around the Colosseum, Forum, Vatican Museums, or wherever, then you can change your schedule any time you want.
Don't forget to buy the advance tickets for the Borghese Gallery.
A place that we love to pick up slices of pizza is Pizza Florida, which is on via Florida. It has the advantage of being right next to the cat sanctuary at Torre Argentina. Which is also the place where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Pizza Florida always has a great selection of just-baked pizza by the slice. Very little seating, but there are benches outside.
You have tours scheduled for three consecutive mornings (though one doesn't start until 10:30). It's partly a matter of personal preference, but when we travel, I don't like being so committed to a certain schedule. What if it rains, or if it's a particularly nice day, and your group would rather be outside wandering the ruins than inside a museum? If you self-guide yourselves around the Colosseum, Forum, Vatican Museums, or wherever, then you can change your schedule any time you want.
