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Itinerary for 17 days in Rome & AC - version #1

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Itinerary for 17 days in Rome & AC - version #1

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Old Apr 26th, 2013, 04:39 PM
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Itinerary for 17 days in Rome & AC - version #1

This is a preliminary plan and itinerary for 17 days in Italy, May 2014. The places we hope to visit are not (with certain exceptions) set in stone. So if we decide we have no more time for them, we can always leave them for “next time”.

We are a couple in our mid 40s, and love history, culture, good food, photography, nature, expansive views; on top of that, I have a thing about churches, so we’ll try so see as many as I can fit. It is our 2nd trip to Italy (first one was about 10 years ago, to Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, and we loved it). So, here we go:

1 – Thu – land in Rome around 7 am. Check-in to the hotel (most likely Pantheon area) and spend the day around there. Piazza Navona, San Luigi dei Francesi, Sant’Agostino, Sant'Agnese in Agone, Santa Maria sopra Minerva
2 – Fri – Galleria Borghese tour in the morning, then Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Spagna, Capuchin Monk Crypt, Santa Maria della Vittoria, Piazza dela Republica
3 – Sat – Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill tour in the morning; then San Pietro in Vincoli, San Giovanni in Laterano, San Clemente in the afternoon
4 – Sun – Day trip to Tivoli
5 – Mon - Galleria Doria Pamphilj, Trevi, Il Gesu, Victor Emmanuel Monument, Piazza del Campidoglio , Santa Maria in Aracoeli
6 – Tue – Vatican tour in the morning; then St.Peter’s and if we can still walk after climbing the dome, Castel Sant Angelo
7 – Wed – Day trip to Orvieto
8 – Thu - Capitoline Museum in the morning, Trastevere in the afternoon
9 – Fri – Train to Salerno, ferry to Positano
10 – Sat - Positano, maybe hike The Path of Gods in the moning
11 – Sun – Day trip to Amalfi; sleep in Positano
12 – Mon – Day trip to Ravello; sleep in Positano
13 – Tue – Boat/ferry to Capri; spend 3 nights there
16 – Fri – Boat to Napes; Archeological Museum in the afternoon
17 – Sat – Day trip to Pompeii; sleep in Naples
18 – Sun – Fly back home

I would like to hear your comments, so I can change things if you think any of these days looks crazy. I know we are missing things, can’t see everything…but if you suggest to drop anything and add some “must see”, please tell me. Thanks
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Old Apr 26th, 2013, 07:01 PM
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The Doria Pamphilj had a Saturday musical tour of the palace on a Saturday when we were there in May 2012. Live music in different rooms as a docent led the tour discussing the art, a concert at the end, very nice. You should check if they are still doing it and if possible rearrange your days.

It is possible to do both Pompeii and Herculaneum in the same day from Naples. Herculaneum, smaller and more preserved than Pompeii, is sort of the link between the Archeological Museum and Pompeii.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 03:33 AM
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AJ,
The Doria Pamphilj live music sounds wonderful,it would definitely enhance the visit and I'm going to look into it.

Glad to hear we could add Herculaneum to the trip, I was afraid we would push it too much. Thanks
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 10:47 AM
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Here's a link:

http://www.dopart.it/roma/en/suoni-e...di-caravaggio/

We got our tickets on line, thanks to Google Translate.

My trip report: Click my screen name.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 11:02 AM
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Normally i would suggest going straight from Rome to the Naples area when you land, and putting your Rome stay at the end of the trip, so as to be in the right place to fly home, without splitting your Rome stay.

However, I know that you are probably putting the Amalfi at the end of the trip so as to get the better weather there, but if you don't personally i would like to be back in Rome for a day or two before i flew home.

One place you haven't included is Ostia antica, which is actually quite near the airport - and would make a nice spot to stay for a day if you decided to split the trip up in the way I suggest.

the Doria-pamphilij is great - I've been twice now and enjoyed it very much; with music it would be even better. i would definitely arrange the itinerary to be able to take this in.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 04:47 PM
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I think you will find many churches in Rome closed mid-afternoons.

>>>11 – Sun – Day trip to Amalfi; sleep in Positano
12 – Mon – Day trip to Ravello; sleep in Positano<<<

You need to combine these. You have to go to Amalfi to get to Ravello (requires a bus change there).
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 06:14 PM
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ky, I was just going to suggest the same thing: Amalfi and Ravello are one day. I'd suggest the ferry to Amalfi, and a cab to Ravello. The bus situation is not good there.

xyz, you have certainly done your research! You have included some wonderful places. Orvieto could even be an overnight trip. We stayed there overnight last summer on the way to Rome from Tuscany. We dropped a rental car there and took the train to Rome.

If you need a hotel in the Pantheon, I can recommend Albergo del Senato, but you should book early. The Galleria Borghese is wonderful, and the Basilica of San Clemente is a must see.

If you're at all claustrophobic, I would not recommend climbing the dome of St Peters. I did climb it several years ago, and found it to be less than enjoyable. If you're in great physical condition and don't mind tight spaces, it does have an amazing view, however.

If your budget allows, I'd suggest getting a guide for the Forum and Pompeii parts of your trip. We learned so much and enjoyed the experience more in the Forum with a guide. We visited Pompeii without a guide, and really wished that we had someone to take us through; it's massive!

What a wonderful trip you have planned so far, and you have plenty of time to tweak the details. Have fun!
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 01:46 AM
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i'll echo what was said about climbing the Dome -I did it, but it"s hard work and quite narrow in places.

but it's still worth going up to roof level - you can see the mosaics around the inside of the cupola that are just blurs from the ground, you get to see the statues that overlook the front of the Basilica, the roofs themselves are fascinating, and there is a cafe and loos!
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 06:24 AM
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AJ,
Thanks for the link – the concerts are only on Sat, and I was thinking of doing the Colosseum tour that morning, to maximize the Roma Pass on that and the Borghese on Fri. Not sure if I want to switch to an afternoon tour of the Colosseum, I think it would get too hot…need to think about that.
I found your TR – I’m sure I read it before, but I was not planning a Rome trip back then. I will read it again.

Ann,
Actually I was thinking of flying out of Naples (not splitting the Rome stay)…it’s not a direct flight, but with a connection somewhere in Europe, but it does not sound bad. I think Rome would be too hectic at the end of our vacation, and AC and the sea view would make for a better ending. You still think we should do this in reverse? Weather is not a concern, we are not planning any beach/pool time.

I’m going back and forth about including (or not) Ostia Antica. We are going to Turkey in Oct, so we’ll see (maybe?) similar things there. I am not sure about that…
If not, what should we cut off to include Ostia Antica? That would take a full day, right?

ky,
Yes, I had looked up the churches’ opening hours…you are correct, and we will have to adjust around that.
We will combine Amalfi + Ravello in one day (ferry and cab, as cybertraveler suggested). This will give us an extra day in Positano…any suggestion for it, or just wander around?

cybertraveler,
Albergo del Senato is the hotel I’m looking at. I emailed them about rates, and they mentioned that 2014 bookings will only start in Sept.
About climbing the dome…hmm, I am a little bit claustrophobic and not in a great shape. But I am a big sucker for views, and for that I endure a lot. So I think I will take is slowly and do it. How does the climb compare to St.Paul’s in London or Florence’s Duomo climb? Granted, I was a lot younger back then

We are getting a small tour for Colosseum, Forum and the Palatine Hill, and we will definitely get a guide for Pompeii. Should we try to arrange the Pompeii guide in advance, or finding one at the entrance is good enough? If our legs will still carry us at the end of the day, we’ll try to stop at Herculaneum on our way back to Naples.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 09:18 AM
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You are on your way to a great trip.

About "maximizing" a pass at the expense of a missed opportunity, I suggest comparing the costs of no pass and your top choice of sites vs a max pass use, then decide if the cost saving is worth it. I doubt you can be precise to the penny, as there is a reasopnable chance that the prices will be different in a year, but you can get an idea of how much to insert in the blanks: "I saved $_______ but missed _________."

We did the Colloseum/Palatine/Forum tour on a May afternoon and found it not too hot despite the long walk. There were sit down spots along the way. By the way, the view from the very top of the Colloseum is pretty good.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 09:43 AM
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AJ,
You are absolutely right!!! What was I thinking????

Done, order switched
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 11:40 AM
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Actually I was thinking of flying out of Naples (not splitting the Rome stay)…it’s not a direct flight, but with a connection somewhere in Europe, but it does not sound bad. I think Rome would be too hectic at the end of our vacation, and AC and the sea view would make for a better ending. You still think we should do this in reverse? Weather is not a concern, we are not planning any beach/pool time.>>

in that case, ignore entirely what I said about reversing the trip. Flying into Rome and out of Naples is a great idea.

I don't know if what you can see at Ostia is in anyway similar to Turkey, so i can't help there. it is only a half day trip when you re there, but getting back and forth will take an hour or so each way, depending on where you're starting from of course. it's quite different from Pompeii because it wasn't destroyed by a natural disaster but just fell down over the years, though quite a lot of it is surprisingly intact - the theatre, the market area, the bar and restaurant, the latrines, lots of the houses - it's all there apart from the locals in their togas.

really up to you whether you want to go - I'd have it on my C list, whereas the Doria Pamphilij, with or without music, is at the top of my B list.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 11:57 AM
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I also echo the thought of checking church hours before you go running around to get to them. It can be frustrating to arrive and find the church you are planning to see closed.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 03:13 PM
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Carol,
You should see my OCD spreadsheet...although I am sure it will not be 100% accurate. But it's the best I can do.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 03:19 PM
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Ann,
I will take another look at Ostia Antica pictures (and read some more) after we get back from Turkey. I will have a better idea then how they compare.
Thanks for sharing your rating opinion, I truly value it.

Now...what' on your A list? Am I missing any of it?
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 09:25 PM
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Ostia Antica photos (and more) if that helps.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...log-photos.cfm
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Old Apr 29th, 2013, 05:56 AM
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If you want to get a pass for Rome, currently the Roma Pass is 30€ and the Roma & Piu Pass is 32€. To get the value, you would have to group the more expensive sites within the 3 day pass window or combine expensive sites with ones that require a lot of travel such as Tivoli. The more expensive sites on your list are the Colosseum/Forum/Palantine (12€), Borghese (11€), Capitoline (9.50€). If you switch day 5 and day 7, you might find it cost effective to buy a Roma & Piu pass for days 2,3,4 and a Roma Pass for days 6,7,8.

With the Roma Pass, you can make use of the little electric buses that run through the historic center. You could catch the 116 close to your hotel and take it to the Borghese. You can also catch the 117 for San Clemente and San Giovanni in Laterano.

http://www.atac.roma.it/files/doc.asp?r=9

I can't see a way to make the Campania Artecard pay off for your current itinerary. The 3 day Tutta La Regione (27€)is the only one that includes transport. Pompeii is 11€ as is Herculaneum. The museum in Naples is only 8€ and the card would deduct your first two sites visited as the free sites.

I don't think you need to add Ostia Antica if you are visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum.
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Old Apr 29th, 2013, 01:41 PM
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Now...what' on your A list? Am I missing any of it?>>

A list

St Peter's
vatican museums
colosseum
Piazza Navona and the Centro storico
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Old Apr 29th, 2013, 02:52 PM
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For your time in Positano, I always recommend a tour with Christine of www.discoverpositano.com. It is only 2 hours and you learn alot about the history of the area and the town - and it includes sampling of local products!
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Old Apr 29th, 2013, 04:25 PM
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Hi, xyz -

Should be a great trip! Just a few comments:

> 9 – Fri – Train to Salerno

Since you love churches, do consider stopping in Salerno long enough to visit its Cathedral, which has some truly stunning ambos, among other treasures. Unfortunately, I suspect it will be closed for a VERY long siesta - but see if you can fit it in! As a bonus, you'll get a bit of a walk through a little-touristed medieval core and a walk along Salerno's lovely Lungomare (which I would take on the way to the cathedral, walking other ways to get back to the area by the train/bus/ferry stations).

And do consider whether you can free up the time to go to Paestum.

> 11 – Sun – Day trip to Amalfi; sleep in Positano
12 – Mon – Day trip to Ravello; sleep in Positano

Since you have to go through Amalfi to get to Ravello, you might combine these two. In Ravello, visit the Cathedral (another amazing ambo) and both the Villa Rufolo and the Villa Cimbrone. If the weather is good, the walk from Ravello to Amalfi affords some stunning views, but it is surprisingly easy to take a wrong turn, so be sure you have a good map and don't hesitate to ask people to confirm that you are on the right path!

> 16 – Fri – Boat to Napes; Archeological Museum in the afternoon

I realize that you don't have much time in the area, but there are some amazing churches and other sites in Spaccanopoli. You might consider cutting your time in Capri to one day to allow an extra day in Naples.

> I'd suggest getting a guide for ... Pompeii

I'd say that's a matter for personal preference. I thought the audio guide sufficient given the research I had done in advance, and I found that there were a number of very helpful docents who were more than happy to share details with those who showed even the slightest interest.


Hope that helps!
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