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Old May 29th, 2004, 12:21 PM
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Italy with Teenagers

I just returned from a 2 1/2 week trip with my 16 year old son and 14 year old daughter to Italy. I wrote copiously and faithfully in my journal every day so now it is only to type it up before posting a very long trip report but for now, some tips I learned. Probably other people have given the same advice, so I just reiterate...

Highlights:

The kids favorite place out of Sorrento, Rome, Florence and Venice was Sorrento. We live in a small town and I think they found it more manageable. It is a very charming town. My daughter loved the shopping, they have many inexpensive and fashionable clothing stores and she bought some really cute items.

PISA- if your kids want to see this, don't let anyone talk you out of it. If you are in Florence on a Monday, this is a good trip to make since the museums are closed. This was a highlight for them. If you want to climb the tower (300 steps - nothing compared to climbing the Dome at the Cathedral in Florence), get your appointment right away. We got our appointment for two hours later. We had lunch, saw the Baptistery and Cathedral, and walked around and the time went by quickly.

The Coliseum in Rome.

Eating at 8 and 9 PM. They got used to that real fast.

And speaking of eating, a wonderful thing happens once they get over their antsyness to get the bill and leave as soon as they are done eating. Between antipasto and primo and sometimes even a secundo, and dolche, they begin to talk. They talk to you. They talk to each other. They laugh. They joke. They enjoy the meal. An long lingering Italian meal is a wonderful thing. One dinner I got the whole works and spent 95 Euro, including cafe and chicolotte at the end. It was worth every penny.

Their all time favorite place, believe it or not - the Cat Sanctuary at Torre Argentina. They would have stayed there for hours. That's right, I took my kids to Italy so they could look at cats climbing ruins.

Biggest Disappointment - okay, get ready for blasphemy - the Sistine Chapel. We did it all wrong. Due to a mix up with our address, we were unable to hook up with a private guide for the Vatican and we went on our own and got caught up in the endless herd march to the the Chapel. It was hot, crowded, bottle necks trying to squeeze too many people into doorways, NOTHING on earth was going to live up to being worth what it took to get there. And sure enough it was a let down. Don't do what we did. I don't want anymore teenagers going home to tell their friends the Sistine Chapel is overrated.

Do not over schedule churches and museums. Just accept you won't see as many as you would like to see because you don't want to see them with whining complaining kids. Let them sleep in and you go see what you must see without them. In fact, let them sleep in period, even if it means you don't get to see as much in a day. Everyone will be happier.

Those 10 Euro drinks when you stop at outdoor cafes to rest are WORTH EVERY EURO! Go ahead. Sit down. Let them order Coke. Make a deal. They can have a Coke if you can see another church.

Gellato every day goes a long way.

You won't see as much as you planned. Oh well.

Joelle
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Old May 29th, 2004, 01:16 PM
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Nice report, Joelle. Sounds like you had a wonderful time! You provided some valuable tips to others with planned travels.

Also glad to hear how wonderful your meals were with your teens. We Americans definitely tend to eat on the run these day, thus lose precious time with our loved ones. I hope the trend is continuing now that you are home.
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Old May 29th, 2004, 01:18 PM
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What great info! We are off to Italy in July with two teenagers (17 and almost 15). We want to see the sites but make it enjoyable for everyone. Your suggestions are practical, realistic and wise.

Our girls are really looking forward to the shopping. Any specific places in Sorrento?
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Old May 29th, 2004, 01:35 PM
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Thanks for the great report! We're going with a 13 & 16 year old next summer. Where is the cat sanctuary? Your experience of the long meals is great. We had similar -- very memorable -- dinners on our trip a few years ago. I will look forward to reading more when you post the full report!
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Old May 29th, 2004, 02:30 PM
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As far as shops in Sorrento, our hotel was on via Capa and we just walked up that street to the piazza and passed a lot of little fashion shops with very inexpensive clothes.

And whoever says they only where dark colors in Europe hasn't looked around at these shops. Oh my goodness, bright shades. There's a green you see that I haven't seen in the US.

My daughter also enjoyed shopping in Florence. She got a very nice white leather jacket for 100 E.

Torre Argentina is very easy to find, if you are walking around from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, a wrong turn will get you there. You'll see a bunch of ruins in the middle of the street - that's it. The Sanctuary is down the steps and they are more than happy to give you a tour and tell you the story of some of their crippled kitties. They also have a little gift shop and are greatful for any donations. From Torre Argentina you can take the #8 tram to Travestere

Joelle
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Old May 30th, 2004, 04:52 AM
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Joelle,
I was so interested in your message since I will travel to Italy with my husband and two girls (ages 12 & 15) at the end of June. We have three weeks. We fly into Rome and though we did not really plan on visiting my 15 year old insisted that we spend a couple of days to see the highlights, including the Sistine Chapel. We know we are going to have to be aggressive with our schedule since we only have one full day and two half days. Since we are just arriving I think we will be fresh and ready to go!

After leaving Rome, we drive up to our villa near Cortona for a week which will be a more relaxing environment. Then we go to Lucca and Florence and Venice before flying home.

My kids are pretty seasoned travelers. We have been to India, Central America, South East Asia (Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore, Thailand) and England and Scotland. They have traveled since they were young and have done their share of museums, temples and the like. They are very excited about this upcoming trip to Italy.

When I read your comment about the Sistine Chapel I got worried. It sounds like we may encounter the same "underwhelming tour" since we are trying to squeeze so much into our stay in Rome. I have read about some tips on getting through the Vatican on this site which I have noted but what do you think would be the best way to handle a visit? Usually, we hire private guides to take us through sites but I thought we would do this on our own - to save time and because we have quite a bit of literature.

Also, did you happen to purchase any Venetian masks? My daugher has that on her priority shopping list and I assume we can find them but any tips would be apprediated. She has said she is willing to pay a lot of money for a good one. This, in lieu of clothing for her!

I was intrigued by your mention of Torre Argentina in Rome. I had never read of the place. It sounds like a great break in the site seeing schedule for us if we can plan it. I didn't quite understand the directions, though. Could you try again? Thanks!

I appreciate your comment about Pisa. My younger daughter says she really wants to go but all I have read says it is really a pass. We might be able to do it from Lucca and perhaps we should consider it more.

I look forward to reading your whole trip report as I am sure I will pick up some other hints from it. I do agree with your overall comments about traveling with teenager or any children. If they are happy, everyone is happy!
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Old May 30th, 2004, 05:06 AM
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We had planned to have a private guide at the Vatican and I guess I gave him the wrong address for our apt in (we were close to the vatican) I just copied and pasted the address and before I left, I didn't really know it, I must have left out a number and I was REALLY stupid by not taking down the number. So when he didn't show up (because he was waiting for me somewhere else) there was nothing we could do. If I'd had a cell phone # it would have been easily cleared up.

I would by all means pay the money for a guide. We did an Roman church tour with Liz from Scalea Reala and she was SO good, made it very interesting for my daughter (my son sat it out) - I think she would probably be great for the Vatican. She has been recommeneded by others here. I'd say that would be worth the $$. Don't try to do the Vatican on your own. It's just overwhelming.

There are masks all over the place in Venice. I bought a 20 E one at a stand - but there are lots of shops if she wants to get a nicer quality one. They all looked the same to me.

We took a bus from our apt near the Vatican to Torre Argentina, there are lots of buses that go there. It's probably not a very expensive taxi ride from wherever you are. Buses can be confusing because it's hard to know if you are at your stop--especially when they are very crowded. Actually I think it was at Torre Argentina that my daughter got off, but I couldn't push by the crowd fast enough and the doors shut and the bus took off and I screamed bloody murder. The fear of a mother is understood in any language and the rest of the passengers yelled at the bus driver and I was off in a hurry.

WHich reminds me of another tip. We did not have a contingency plan for that. Sarah had chased the bus when it left her. I told her if it happens again that SHE was to stay put and I would find her. Make a plan with your kids. I made sure they always had their own money in case they neeeded a taxi and they did know where they were staying.

If you hate crowded touristy places, you won't like PISA, we kind of get a kick out of touristy places. We loved watching all the people pose by holding up the tower. It was a highlight for the kids.

Joelle
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Old May 30th, 2004, 05:51 AM
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<i>&quot;There are masks all over the place in Venice...They all looked the same to me.&quot;</i>

And this is a pretty common reaction from the majority tourists.

As with glass from Murano, Venetian mask art requires a bit of study to determine quality, authenticity, and artistic integrity. Luckily, with a little research and a conversation or two with any of Venice's star mask creators, one can easily discern the factory made from the true artisan.

Filmmaker Stanley Kubrick had a personal relationship with Italy for many years. When it came time to mask Tom Cruise in &quot;Eyes Wide Shut,&quot; he called upon Sergio Boldrin and his brother Massimo, two of Venice's top mask-makers. Their famous shop, La Bottega dei Mascareri, is located in San Polo near the Rialto Bridge. All you have to do is mention the shop's name and Venetians will walk you there.

Another shop that Stanley used for his film is Ca' Macana on Calle delle Botteghe in Dorsoduro. This shop is quite large and features some very high quality creations. They have another branch near Campo San Barnaba on Barbaria delle Tole.

Several years ago I did a high-end, avant garde fashion shoot for an artsy foreign publication based on the key members of Commedia dell'Arte, Venice's famous theater troupe of the 16th century. I had ten female models and their masks were made at these two boutiques.
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Old May 30th, 2004, 06:06 AM
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Hi karin,

We found
Specchi Veneziana di Barbini Sergio at 1720 Calle del Cristi
phone 041 524 03 45
to be a very good, custom shop, for Venetian masks.

It is near the Rialto.

I believe that Mr Barbini's niece (3rd generation) is now in charge.
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Old May 30th, 2004, 08:23 AM
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Joelle, you've discovered the &quot;secret&quot; to the closeness of Italian families: long, leisurely meals together. So, if I may suggest, why not keep it going now that you're back home? It's a very important part of the glue that keeps Italian families so solid, and we could all use more of that in the world today.


best regards,
Deirdr&eacute; Straughan

http://www.straughan.com
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Old May 30th, 2004, 12:19 PM
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Just to follow up on the venetian masks. I'm sure my daugher will be buying something somewhere between the quality of Stanley Kubricks and a street vendor. I noted the suggested shop from ira but I wonder what the costs are there? My daughter will be using her babysitting money to purchase her mask so she probably has a few hundred dollars in total for souviners in Italy. I'm glad she has decided on quality rather than quantity and wants to spend her money on a venetian mask she will cherish forever. I just wonder what a mid range price would be??
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Old Jun 2nd, 2004, 09:56 PM
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Karinw:

Torre Argentina is located at the intersection of Via Arenula and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. This is between Campo dei Fiori &amp; Piazza Venezia.

I stop there most every day when I'm in Rome.

Here's a site of it that you may like.
http://www.romancats.de/

Ciao ciao, Eileen
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