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Italy with baby - where to go?

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Hello! My husband and I are looking to rent an apartment in Europe for 3 or 4 weeks with our 11 month old in May. Would appreciate if anyone has suggestions for a town, village, or non-major city that is relatively calm (ie, a city smaller than Rome or even Bologna), that can be a good base where we can enjoy the culture of the town, maybe hop out to a museum and grab a cappuccino, go to the market to cook in the apartment, and have access to day/weekend trips. We're thinking a town in Italy, but are open to other countries. Places drivable to a beach are a big plus for us also, though in May it will likely be too cold and the beach would just be a big plus for us, not a requirement. Thanks, we appreciate any advice!

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