Italy was HOT...but the Limoncellow was COLD!
Jul 16th, 2007, 06:54 PM
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Italy was HOT...but the Limoncellow was COLD!
I just returned from 11 wonderful nights in Italy, 3 in Venice, 3 in Bologna and 5 in Rome. Italy is as wonderful as ever! I had never been there in July and was a little concerned about the heat (I don’t do well in very hot, humid weather) and the crowds. Much to my surprise, neither was really a problem. I work in a school now and have to take the bulk of my vacation in the summer.
As I have known for some time, I want to move to Rome. Tomorrow would be good!
I continue to enjoy traveling alone. You meet a lot of interesting people, and they’re more likely to really get into conversations with you when you’re by yourself. I won’t bore you with the details of getting to JFK when a major route you usually take is completely closed and, this being rural Upstate New York, you have to go WAY out of your way to get there. This is the sort of thing that happens when you travel, best to just get past it and enjoy the trip! I got there a lot later than I would have liked but made the flight just in time. At least this time I wasn’t without my luggage for the first five days!
I arrive in Venice on time and buy my 72-hour vaporetto pass (come out from getting your luggage, turn left and go past the long line at the ATVO desk on your left (where people are getting Alilaguna tickets) to get to the ACTV desk on your right, where there will be no line – no credit cards, you have to have cash). The pass covers the ACTV Orange #5 bus to Piazzale Roma, which takes around 20-25 minutes (it doesn’t cover the ATVO express blue bus, which maybe takes five minutes less) and of course then covers the vaporetto to your hotel. For those of you who have read my previous reports, you know that I have arthritis in my knees and therefore move a lot more slowly than most and want a hotel with an elevator. There’s no way to travel to Italy without doing a lot of walking and a lot of stairs, but I prefer not add more to get to my hotel room or apartment at the end of the day.
I have a short walk to my hotel, Palazza la Scala, where I had stayed last time in September 2005. Since I am a returning customer and agree to pay in cash, they give me a price of 150E per night for a double room/single use (quite a discount for this time of year). The hotel is located between the Rialto Bridge and San Marco, closer to Rialto. I don’t use the Fodors favorites because they don’t have an elevator. Also, I know a lot of people want something quiet and out of the way, but I like to be in the thick of things, so this is a perfect location as far as I’m concerned. Even though I’m pretty sure I stayed one floor higher last time, the room I have is identical. Double bed, desk/chair, small bathroom but not as small as some, small shower but again not as small as some, phone, safe. Good buffet breakfast, with ham, rolls, croissants, yogurt, fruit, juice (including blood orange), coffee, Danish, cereal.
The main thing is…I’m in Venice! I get a shower and am ready to head out. Jetlag hits me more on the way home than on the way over. I managed to sleep for probably four hours on the plane and really don’t want to take a nap anyway. I just wander around the area, soaking in the ambience of Venice. After a while, I start to sort of look for the restaurant where I have an 8:00 reservation this evening, Trattoria Sempione. I actually find it at 7:00, and even though I usually don’t eat this early, I’m hungry and decide to go in then. They’re empty at this hour, so it’s not a problem. Actually, it turns into a slight problem. The food is very good. I have the Sardine Soar (with pine nuts, which is different), the Butter-Fried John Dory Fillet, and Tomato Salad (which is literally a huge bowl of cut up tomatoes, nothing else), as well as water and 2 glasses of wine (54E). The problem is that the waiter is hovering (he doesn’t have any other customers to look after). I feel like he’s just waiting for me to finish the sardines, and in fact, that is the case. As soon as I finish the last bite and put down my fork, he is there to swoop away the plate. Now, I like good service, but I feel like I am being watched every second, so it is uncomfortable. One other thing, the 12% service is not included in the price listed on the menu, very unusual in my experience in Italy. So, good food but I am not comfortable there.
I wander a bit more after dinner and eventually go over to San Marco to see the dueling orchestras. While they were good last time, I think the quality of the music is much higher this time, especially at Florian’s. Not only do they have a flute in the group (and I play the flute, so I know how good he is), but their female violinist is amazing, the best among the three orchestras. Of course, it’s expensive, 10E for my Limoncello plus 5.80E for the cover charge, but you’re paying for the ambience, the music, the experience, being in San Marco Square in Venice on a beautiful evening…
Have to stop now, will continue tomorrow...
As I have known for some time, I want to move to Rome. Tomorrow would be good!
I continue to enjoy traveling alone. You meet a lot of interesting people, and they’re more likely to really get into conversations with you when you’re by yourself. I won’t bore you with the details of getting to JFK when a major route you usually take is completely closed and, this being rural Upstate New York, you have to go WAY out of your way to get there. This is the sort of thing that happens when you travel, best to just get past it and enjoy the trip! I got there a lot later than I would have liked but made the flight just in time. At least this time I wasn’t without my luggage for the first five days!I arrive in Venice on time and buy my 72-hour vaporetto pass (come out from getting your luggage, turn left and go past the long line at the ATVO desk on your left (where people are getting Alilaguna tickets) to get to the ACTV desk on your right, where there will be no line – no credit cards, you have to have cash). The pass covers the ACTV Orange #5 bus to Piazzale Roma, which takes around 20-25 minutes (it doesn’t cover the ATVO express blue bus, which maybe takes five minutes less) and of course then covers the vaporetto to your hotel. For those of you who have read my previous reports, you know that I have arthritis in my knees and therefore move a lot more slowly than most and want a hotel with an elevator. There’s no way to travel to Italy without doing a lot of walking and a lot of stairs, but I prefer not add more to get to my hotel room or apartment at the end of the day.
I have a short walk to my hotel, Palazza la Scala, where I had stayed last time in September 2005. Since I am a returning customer and agree to pay in cash, they give me a price of 150E per night for a double room/single use (quite a discount for this time of year). The hotel is located between the Rialto Bridge and San Marco, closer to Rialto. I don’t use the Fodors favorites because they don’t have an elevator. Also, I know a lot of people want something quiet and out of the way, but I like to be in the thick of things, so this is a perfect location as far as I’m concerned. Even though I’m pretty sure I stayed one floor higher last time, the room I have is identical. Double bed, desk/chair, small bathroom but not as small as some, small shower but again not as small as some, phone, safe. Good buffet breakfast, with ham, rolls, croissants, yogurt, fruit, juice (including blood orange), coffee, Danish, cereal.
The main thing is…I’m in Venice! I get a shower and am ready to head out. Jetlag hits me more on the way home than on the way over. I managed to sleep for probably four hours on the plane and really don’t want to take a nap anyway. I just wander around the area, soaking in the ambience of Venice. After a while, I start to sort of look for the restaurant where I have an 8:00 reservation this evening, Trattoria Sempione. I actually find it at 7:00, and even though I usually don’t eat this early, I’m hungry and decide to go in then. They’re empty at this hour, so it’s not a problem. Actually, it turns into a slight problem. The food is very good. I have the Sardine Soar (with pine nuts, which is different), the Butter-Fried John Dory Fillet, and Tomato Salad (which is literally a huge bowl of cut up tomatoes, nothing else), as well as water and 2 glasses of wine (54E). The problem is that the waiter is hovering (he doesn’t have any other customers to look after). I feel like he’s just waiting for me to finish the sardines, and in fact, that is the case. As soon as I finish the last bite and put down my fork, he is there to swoop away the plate. Now, I like good service, but I feel like I am being watched every second, so it is uncomfortable. One other thing, the 12% service is not included in the price listed on the menu, very unusual in my experience in Italy. So, good food but I am not comfortable there.
I wander a bit more after dinner and eventually go over to San Marco to see the dueling orchestras. While they were good last time, I think the quality of the music is much higher this time, especially at Florian’s. Not only do they have a flute in the group (and I play the flute, so I know how good he is), but their female violinist is amazing, the best among the three orchestras. Of course, it’s expensive, 10E for my Limoncello plus 5.80E for the cover charge, but you’re paying for the ambience, the music, the experience, being in San Marco Square in Venice on a beautiful evening…
Have to stop now, will continue tomorrow...
Jul 17th, 2007, 03:20 PM
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AmanteDelLimoncello, I love your name!
IdyllicItaly, happy to help.
AnnMarie, yes, I'll have info on the food in Bologna, actually not all as good as you would expect.
Thanks marigross, Samsaf and ellenem.
Here's some more:
The next morning, it is again beautiful weather. Throughout the trip, it is hot of course, and humid, but just not the sweltering heat I had expected. I rest when I feel like it and do OK with the heat. And while crowded, Venice is certainly not mobbed, even in the evening at San Marco. I do catch a little odor from the canals a few times, but it’s neither overpowering nor constant. Just occasional.
I catch the vaporetto to the Accademia stop. I’m thinking of going to the museum but walk over to Santa Maria della Salute first and spend some time there. After walking back to the Accademia, I decide I really don’t feel like going there. It’s too nice outside. Instead, I get on the vaporetto and take it back past Rialto and the train station, going the long way around to get to the San Basilio stop. For the first time ever, after one stop I get a seat up in the front of the boat for the long trip. It’s wonderful! The wind feels so good and the view is unbeatable. It’s probably around a 40-minute ride, and I really enjoy it. I’m headed to the San Basilio stop to go to San Sebastiano and the Church of Angelo Raffaele (after reading Miss Garnet’s Angel). The streets around here are empty. I only pass a few people the whole time I’m in this area. Of course, the long vaporetto ride has made me just miss getting into San Sebastiano. I had read that the Paolo Veronese works here are fantastic, so guess I’ll have to come back sometime. Raffaele is also closed, but I’ve enjoyed just walking around this section of Venice. It’s obvious that not many tourists come here. I walk back through Campo San Barnaba toward Ca’ Rezzonico and catch the vaporetto back to Rialto. Time to put my feet up for a while before dinner.
I had made an email reservation at Vini da Gigio. Turns out that on Saturday and Sunday, they have two seatings, one at 7:00 and another at 9:30. I didn’t want to wait quite that late, so I had taken the early one. I take the vaporetto to Ca’ d’Oro and walk in the general direction of the restaurant. I’m early and want to take a look around on Strada Nova. I find a Billa supermercato and decide to check it out. Success…I find some Crema di Carciofi and also get a small bottle of Basil Olive Oil. On to dinner. They don’t have my reservation! I explain that I did it by email and had a response (I hadn’t printed it out, though). At first, he says it’s a problem, but does find a table for me. The Penne with Gorgonzola and Pistachio is delicious, and the Grilled Squid is wonderful. With wine & water, 50.50E. I return to San Marco to enjoy the orchestras again to end another lovely evening.
The next morning, I have a reservation for the San Marco Basilica. I just love walking past that long line to go right in! Of course, I had gone in last time but had not gone up to the loggia and want to do that this time. It’s only 3E to go up. It is quite a climb, and the steps are high and steep, so not for the handicapped. I can do steps like this, just not fast. I’m the first one up there, and of course there’s a great view and you get to see the horses close up. I also enjoy the museum with the original horses and lots of mosaics. Easily worth 3E!
I walk over to San Zaccharia. This church should be on everybody’s must-see list. You start with Bellini’s “Sacra Conversazione” (Madonna & Child with Saints), then pay 1E on the right side to go into the Chapel of St. Athanasius (Tiepolo and Tintoretto) and into the Gold Chapel. Absolutely amazing! From there, you can go down to the 10th Century crypt. The kind of place you’ll want to go back to again and again.
There’s a nice antique store right there on the square, plus Anticlea Antiquariato on Campo San Provolo nearby for antique beads. I love this store. She has a large selection of beads from the 1950’s that you can choose from, and if desired, she will make them into earrings or a pendant while you wait. A great place for inexpensive gifts that are a little different (or of course they can get more expensive if you use a lot of beads).
I find myself just wandering around, mostly without consulting my map, which is fun. I really don’t seem to get as lost in Venice as most people. I end up at Campo San Zulian and do then check the map, as my feet are starting to give out! At least I have generally gone in the right direction towards my hotel, where it’s again time to put my feet up. I’m going to Al Paradiso, Calle de Paradiso in San Polo, for dinner, my favorite restaurant from last time. I start out early to stroll around on the way. Shortly after I’ve left the hotel, there are dark clouds and thunder, so I go back to get my umbrella. This doesn’t really do me a whole lot of good! Not far from the hotel, sure enough, it starts to rain. Well, rain doesn’t really describe what happened! An absolute downpour, with wind added in, so that my slacks are wet all the way down the front. Of course, I'm holding the umbrella against the wind, but it all of a sudden changed direction, and my whole other side is now wet. I duck into a store to wait out the worst, but I'm already so wet, it doesn’t make much difference.
But better things are to come tonight. I tell the owner of the restaurant that I had been there a couple of years ago, and he thanks me for returning. I sit outside and order my favorite Beef Carpaccio, which is divine, and Crisp Sea Bass with Fennel, also an excellent choice. The Panne Cotta with Wild Berry Sauce sounds too good to pass up, and it is! With wine and water, 57.70E. At the next table are ten people who have come from the US, New Zealand, Wales and England to celebrate one of the lady’s birthday. They are having a wonderful time, and I’ve talked to them a little bit. When the owner brings out the Muscato and those almond cookies, I tell the man from the US you have to dunk them in the wine. Anyway, they invite me over to join the party. A very fun group! (The guest of honor said if they hadn’t been British, they certainly would have invited me over sooner. ) I tell the owner that the next time I’m in Venice, I’m just coming here every night. He takes my hand in both of his and thanks me. The group invites me to go with them to San Marco to listen to the orchestras, so we all walk over for that. Lots of fun, and we check out all the orchestras. You really do meet a lot of great people when you travel.
IdyllicItaly, happy to help.
AnnMarie, yes, I'll have info on the food in Bologna, actually not all as good as you would expect.
Thanks marigross, Samsaf and ellenem.
Here's some more:
The next morning, it is again beautiful weather. Throughout the trip, it is hot of course, and humid, but just not the sweltering heat I had expected. I rest when I feel like it and do OK with the heat. And while crowded, Venice is certainly not mobbed, even in the evening at San Marco. I do catch a little odor from the canals a few times, but it’s neither overpowering nor constant. Just occasional.
I catch the vaporetto to the Accademia stop. I’m thinking of going to the museum but walk over to Santa Maria della Salute first and spend some time there. After walking back to the Accademia, I decide I really don’t feel like going there. It’s too nice outside. Instead, I get on the vaporetto and take it back past Rialto and the train station, going the long way around to get to the San Basilio stop. For the first time ever, after one stop I get a seat up in the front of the boat for the long trip. It’s wonderful! The wind feels so good and the view is unbeatable. It’s probably around a 40-minute ride, and I really enjoy it. I’m headed to the San Basilio stop to go to San Sebastiano and the Church of Angelo Raffaele (after reading Miss Garnet’s Angel). The streets around here are empty. I only pass a few people the whole time I’m in this area. Of course, the long vaporetto ride has made me just miss getting into San Sebastiano. I had read that the Paolo Veronese works here are fantastic, so guess I’ll have to come back sometime. Raffaele is also closed, but I’ve enjoyed just walking around this section of Venice. It’s obvious that not many tourists come here. I walk back through Campo San Barnaba toward Ca’ Rezzonico and catch the vaporetto back to Rialto. Time to put my feet up for a while before dinner.
I had made an email reservation at Vini da Gigio. Turns out that on Saturday and Sunday, they have two seatings, one at 7:00 and another at 9:30. I didn’t want to wait quite that late, so I had taken the early one. I take the vaporetto to Ca’ d’Oro and walk in the general direction of the restaurant. I’m early and want to take a look around on Strada Nova. I find a Billa supermercato and decide to check it out. Success…I find some Crema di Carciofi and also get a small bottle of Basil Olive Oil. On to dinner. They don’t have my reservation! I explain that I did it by email and had a response (I hadn’t printed it out, though). At first, he says it’s a problem, but does find a table for me. The Penne with Gorgonzola and Pistachio is delicious, and the Grilled Squid is wonderful. With wine & water, 50.50E. I return to San Marco to enjoy the orchestras again to end another lovely evening.
The next morning, I have a reservation for the San Marco Basilica. I just love walking past that long line to go right in! Of course, I had gone in last time but had not gone up to the loggia and want to do that this time. It’s only 3E to go up. It is quite a climb, and the steps are high and steep, so not for the handicapped. I can do steps like this, just not fast. I’m the first one up there, and of course there’s a great view and you get to see the horses close up. I also enjoy the museum with the original horses and lots of mosaics. Easily worth 3E!
I walk over to San Zaccharia. This church should be on everybody’s must-see list. You start with Bellini’s “Sacra Conversazione” (Madonna & Child with Saints), then pay 1E on the right side to go into the Chapel of St. Athanasius (Tiepolo and Tintoretto) and into the Gold Chapel. Absolutely amazing! From there, you can go down to the 10th Century crypt. The kind of place you’ll want to go back to again and again.
There’s a nice antique store right there on the square, plus Anticlea Antiquariato on Campo San Provolo nearby for antique beads. I love this store. She has a large selection of beads from the 1950’s that you can choose from, and if desired, she will make them into earrings or a pendant while you wait. A great place for inexpensive gifts that are a little different (or of course they can get more expensive if you use a lot of beads).
I find myself just wandering around, mostly without consulting my map, which is fun. I really don’t seem to get as lost in Venice as most people. I end up at Campo San Zulian and do then check the map, as my feet are starting to give out! At least I have generally gone in the right direction towards my hotel, where it’s again time to put my feet up. I’m going to Al Paradiso, Calle de Paradiso in San Polo, for dinner, my favorite restaurant from last time. I start out early to stroll around on the way. Shortly after I’ve left the hotel, there are dark clouds and thunder, so I go back to get my umbrella. This doesn’t really do me a whole lot of good! Not far from the hotel, sure enough, it starts to rain. Well, rain doesn’t really describe what happened! An absolute downpour, with wind added in, so that my slacks are wet all the way down the front. Of course, I'm holding the umbrella against the wind, but it all of a sudden changed direction, and my whole other side is now wet. I duck into a store to wait out the worst, but I'm already so wet, it doesn’t make much difference.
But better things are to come tonight. I tell the owner of the restaurant that I had been there a couple of years ago, and he thanks me for returning. I sit outside and order my favorite Beef Carpaccio, which is divine, and Crisp Sea Bass with Fennel, also an excellent choice. The Panne Cotta with Wild Berry Sauce sounds too good to pass up, and it is! With wine and water, 57.70E. At the next table are ten people who have come from the US, New Zealand, Wales and England to celebrate one of the lady’s birthday. They are having a wonderful time, and I’ve talked to them a little bit. When the owner brings out the Muscato and those almond cookies, I tell the man from the US you have to dunk them in the wine. Anyway, they invite me over to join the party. A very fun group! (The guest of honor said if they hadn’t been British, they certainly would have invited me over sooner.
) I tell the owner that the next time I’m in Venice, I’m just coming here every night. He takes my hand in both of his and thanks me. The group invites me to go with them to San Marco to listen to the orchestras, so we all walk over for that. Lots of fun, and we check out all the orchestras. You really do meet a lot of great people when you travel.
Jul 17th, 2007, 03:47 PM
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"I'll have info on the food in Bologna, actually not all as good as you would expect." 
"But better things were to come tonight", were they ever. What a magical moment in time that followed. I love your report and anxiously await the next installment.
"But better things were to come tonight", were they ever. What a magical moment in time that followed. I love your report and anxiously await the next installment.
and thought "newbie" ;-)
Jul 18th, 2007, 09:43 AM
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Susan I just love your reports!! You write in such a way that I feel like I am right there beside you. I'm thinking of maybe going back to Venice next year and to Bologna too, so your report is very timely. Looking forward to reading more - can't wait to hear about Rome.
Jul 19th, 2007, 02:07 PM
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TRSW, thanks. Linda, I was so annoyed when I saw that "w"! sarge and sally, glad you're enjoying it. Hi Barb, one of these times we'll be in Rome at the same time again...
Here's more:
The next morning, I wake up with a sore throat. I know you’re not supposed to be able to catch a cold just from getting wet, but that’s what has happened. I guess I shouldn’t complain, because it’s lucky I wake up when I do. My alarm clock chose this morning for the alarm to die. Things are off to a rocky start, and they’re only going to get worse! I’ve missed breakfast, but fortunately have time to get to the train station in time. I check out and catch the vaporetto to the train station to go to Bologna. I have my ticketless confirmation for the reservation I made at trenitalia.com. I don’t understand the problems everybody seems to have with that website, I always do fine with it. I often want a specific train, so I like to have that reservation ahead of time. Good thing, as it appears that the train is full. I also don’t understand the obsession with only having a 22” suitcase when traveling by train. I have a 26” bag plus a small carryon and my small purse. Yes, it’s a bit of a pain getting it on the train, but not that bad, and really, it’s only a pain for a few minutes. And I do find that there are plenty of gentlemen in the world, and one usually offers to help me. There is no room at the end of the car for my bag, but the husband of the Australian family I am sitting with puts it up in the overhead for me. That’s the other thing…my 26” bag fits in the overhead with no problem.
Now comes the embarrassing part. I really don’t know how it happens. Maybe I can blame the cold I’m getting, and that I’m not feeling that great. I really don’t want to admit this, but I miss the stop in Bologna! Like I say, don’t ask me to explain it. Just so everybody knows, that stop in Bologna is so short, you don’t even realize the train has stopped! Nothing to do but continue on to Florence. Did I mention the train is full? I just stand at the end of the car until we get there. I race in to one of the ticket machines and find there is a train back to Bologna in ½ hour. Perfect! I can now report that the ticket machines are as easy to operate as everyone always says. Just realize that when it prints out your receipt, that is NOT your ticket! I almost walk away without the ticket. You have to push a little door in at the bottom to get the ticket.
I hurry in to get a sandwich, as I’m going to faint if I don’t get something to eat soon. I come back out and go to the track noted on the screen. I get over there and it’s the wrong track! I run back out and see that the board has changed and hurry over to the correct track. Of course, my car is at the far end. After going a ways down the side of the train, I decide I better get on before it leaves and move down to my car inside. Good thing I did! I feel a little better after eating my sandwich, but my sore throat is getting worse. Needless to say, I am right by the door as we pull into Bologna! There is a long flight of stairs up to ground level. I usually just pull it up a step at a time without a problem, but another one of those gentlemen behind me just lifts my bag and carries it up for me.
I take a taxi to my B&B, Accogliente Bologna on Via Nazario Sauro. This place is very small, only two rooms. You are actually in Maria & Roberto’s apartment. They are delightful hosts, and Maria also gives cooking classes, which I’m looking forward to. 60E per night for a single room including breakfast. The two rooms share a bathroom. Everything is spotless. Maria serves the most wonderful breakfasts imaginable. All homemade breads, cakes, jams, yogurt, plus fresh fruit. The most delicious peaches I’ve ever tasted. I’m not a yogurt lover, but the yogurt is better in Italy, and Maria’s is by far the best I’ve had. Who could have thought plain yogurt could be so good? Of course, it’s delicious when the fresh fruit or a spoonful of homemade jam is added as well!
Maria also gives me a map and points out some things to see. I’m afraid I don’t have as much information on Bologna as I normally would, because I just don’t feel very well while I’m there. That evening during dinner, in addition to the sore throat, I can feel my head filling up as well. I walk to Da Cesari, Via dei Carbonesi, 8 for dinner, having a look around on the way. I check out the Neptune Fountain and the Sala Borsa on Piazza Maggiore, which has been turned into a library and has glass floors to show the Roman ruins below. There is a Chaplin retrospective going on and there is a huge movie screen set up in the Piazza and rows and rows of seats set up. Roberto had made a reservation for me at Da Cesari, but it wouldn’t have been necessary. They start out with complimentary Prosecco. The platter of local sausage sliced very thin with red onion & fennel is wonderful and is enough to cover a dinner-size plate. The duck with roasted potatoes and black olive sauce is delicious as well. With ½ bottle of wine, 32.50E. Their complimentary after-dinner drink is Blueberry Grappa! Mmmm…but very strong (and I thought Limoncello was strong!). Definitely something to sip slowly.
The next day I decide to skip my daytrip to Ravenna, even though I really want to go there, because I’m feeling much worse. I do go and see the Basilica di San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore and then Santo Stefano. If you can only see one thing in Bologna, make it Santo Stefano, with the ancient interconnected churches. One of those places you can just feel the age. I’m very glad I went here, despite not feeling well. I do a little shopping on my way back, then just get a sandwich and take it back to my room, where I sleep for a couple of hours.
I do feel a little better when I get up and am ready for my cooking class. Fun! I’ll tell more about it when I continue.
Here's more:
The next morning, I wake up with a sore throat. I know you’re not supposed to be able to catch a cold just from getting wet, but that’s what has happened. I guess I shouldn’t complain, because it’s lucky I wake up when I do. My alarm clock chose this morning for the alarm to die. Things are off to a rocky start, and they’re only going to get worse! I’ve missed breakfast, but fortunately have time to get to the train station in time. I check out and catch the vaporetto to the train station to go to Bologna. I have my ticketless confirmation for the reservation I made at trenitalia.com. I don’t understand the problems everybody seems to have with that website, I always do fine with it. I often want a specific train, so I like to have that reservation ahead of time. Good thing, as it appears that the train is full. I also don’t understand the obsession with only having a 22” suitcase when traveling by train. I have a 26” bag plus a small carryon and my small purse. Yes, it’s a bit of a pain getting it on the train, but not that bad, and really, it’s only a pain for a few minutes. And I do find that there are plenty of gentlemen in the world, and one usually offers to help me. There is no room at the end of the car for my bag, but the husband of the Australian family I am sitting with puts it up in the overhead for me. That’s the other thing…my 26” bag fits in the overhead with no problem.
Now comes the embarrassing part. I really don’t know how it happens. Maybe I can blame the cold I’m getting, and that I’m not feeling that great. I really don’t want to admit this, but I miss the stop in Bologna! Like I say, don’t ask me to explain it. Just so everybody knows, that stop in Bologna is so short, you don’t even realize the train has stopped!
Nothing to do but continue on to Florence. Did I mention the train is full? I just stand at the end of the car until we get there. I race in to one of the ticket machines and find there is a train back to Bologna in ½ hour. Perfect! I can now report that the ticket machines are as easy to operate as everyone always says. Just realize that when it prints out your receipt, that is NOT your ticket! I almost walk away without the ticket. You have to push a little door in at the bottom to get the ticket. I hurry in to get a sandwich, as I’m going to faint if I don’t get something to eat soon. I come back out and go to the track noted on the screen. I get over there and it’s the wrong track! I run back out and see that the board has changed and hurry over to the correct track. Of course, my car is at the far end. After going a ways down the side of the train, I decide I better get on before it leaves and move down to my car inside. Good thing I did! I feel a little better after eating my sandwich, but my sore throat is getting worse. Needless to say, I am right by the door as we pull into Bologna! There is a long flight of stairs up to ground level. I usually just pull it up a step at a time without a problem, but another one of those gentlemen behind me just lifts my bag and carries it up for me.
I take a taxi to my B&B, Accogliente Bologna on Via Nazario Sauro. This place is very small, only two rooms. You are actually in Maria & Roberto’s apartment. They are delightful hosts, and Maria also gives cooking classes, which I’m looking forward to. 60E per night for a single room including breakfast. The two rooms share a bathroom. Everything is spotless. Maria serves the most wonderful breakfasts imaginable. All homemade breads, cakes, jams, yogurt, plus fresh fruit. The most delicious peaches I’ve ever tasted. I’m not a yogurt lover, but the yogurt is better in Italy, and Maria’s is by far the best I’ve had. Who could have thought plain yogurt could be so good? Of course, it’s delicious when the fresh fruit or a spoonful of homemade jam is added as well!
Maria also gives me a map and points out some things to see. I’m afraid I don’t have as much information on Bologna as I normally would, because I just don’t feel very well while I’m there. That evening during dinner, in addition to the sore throat, I can feel my head filling up as well. I walk to Da Cesari, Via dei Carbonesi, 8 for dinner, having a look around on the way. I check out the Neptune Fountain and the Sala Borsa on Piazza Maggiore, which has been turned into a library and has glass floors to show the Roman ruins below. There is a Chaplin retrospective going on and there is a huge movie screen set up in the Piazza and rows and rows of seats set up. Roberto had made a reservation for me at Da Cesari, but it wouldn’t have been necessary. They start out with complimentary Prosecco. The platter of local sausage sliced very thin with red onion & fennel is wonderful and is enough to cover a dinner-size plate. The duck with roasted potatoes and black olive sauce is delicious as well. With ½ bottle of wine, 32.50E. Their complimentary after-dinner drink is Blueberry Grappa! Mmmm…but very strong (and I thought Limoncello was strong!). Definitely something to sip slowly.
The next day I decide to skip my daytrip to Ravenna, even though I really want to go there, because I’m feeling much worse. I do go and see the Basilica di San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore and then Santo Stefano. If you can only see one thing in Bologna, make it Santo Stefano, with the ancient interconnected churches. One of those places you can just feel the age. I’m very glad I went here, despite not feeling well. I do a little shopping on my way back, then just get a sandwich and take it back to my room, where I sleep for a couple of hours.
I do feel a little better when I get up and am ready for my cooking class. Fun! I’ll tell more about it when I continue.
