Good heavens, I can't believe I put that "w" on the end of Limoncello...

Great writing-I can see it all,especially the limoncello!

ooooohhh goodie!!!!

Great information about being able to buy the 72-hour vaporetto pass in the airport terminal, especially the detailed directions for locating the ACTV desk. Thank you.

SusanP, I'm glad you're back! I love reading your trip reports. Can't wait for more.

Great start, SusanP--look forward to reading more, especially Bologna after seeing a segment on it by Samantha Brown--my goodness the food!

Waiting for the next episode . . .

AmanteDelLimoncello, I love your name!
IdyllicItaly, happy to help.
AnnMarie, yes, I'll have info on the food in Bologna, actually not all as good as you would expect.
Thanks marigross, Samsaf and ellenem.

Here's some more:

The next morning, it is again beautiful weather. Throughout the trip, it is hot of course, and humid, but just not the sweltering heat I had expected. I rest when I feel like it and do OK with the heat. And while crowded, Venice is certainly not mobbed, even in the evening at San Marco. I do catch a little odor from the canals a few times, but it’s neither overpowering nor constant. Just occasional.

I catch the vaporetto to the Accademia stop. I’m thinking of going to the museum but walk over to Santa Maria della Salute first and spend some time there. After walking back to the Accademia, I decide I really don’t feel like going there. It’s too nice outside. Instead, I get on the vaporetto and take it back past Rialto and the train station, going the long way around to get to the San Basilio stop. For the first time ever, after one stop I get a seat up in the front of the boat for the long trip. It’s wonderful! The wind feels so good and the view is unbeatable. It’s probably around a 40-minute ride, and I really enjoy it. I’m headed to the San Basilio stop to go to San Sebastiano and the Church of Angelo Raffaele (after reading Miss Garnet’s Angel). The streets around here are empty. I only pass a few people the whole time I’m in this area. Of course, the long vaporetto ride has made me just miss getting into San Sebastiano. I had read that the Paolo Veronese works here are fantastic, so guess I’ll have to come back sometime. Raffaele is also closed, but I’ve enjoyed just walking around this section of Venice. It’s obvious that not many tourists come here. I walk back through Campo San Barnaba toward Ca’ Rezzonico and catch the vaporetto back to Rialto. Time to put my feet up for a while before dinner.

I had made an email reservation at Vini da Gigio. Turns out that on Saturday and Sunday, they have two seatings, one at 7:00 and another at 9:30. I didn’t want to wait quite that late, so I had taken the early one. I take the vaporetto to Ca’ d’Oro and walk in the general direction of the restaurant. I’m early and want to take a look around on Strada Nova. I find a Billa supermercato and decide to check it out. Success…I find some Crema di Carciofi and also get a small bottle of Basil Olive Oil. On to dinner. They don’t have my reservation! I explain that I did it by email and had a response (I hadn’t printed it out, though). At first, he says it’s a problem, but does find a table for me. The Penne with Gorgonzola and Pistachio is delicious, and the Grilled Squid is wonderful. With wine & water, 50.50E. I return to San Marco to enjoy the orchestras again to end another lovely evening.

The next morning, I have a reservation for the San Marco Basilica. I just love walking past that long line to go right in! Of course, I had gone in last time but had not gone up to the loggia and want to do that this time. It’s only 3E to go up. It is quite a climb, and the steps are high and steep, so not for the handicapped. I can do steps like this, just not fast. I’m the first one up there, and of course there’s a great view and you get to see the horses close up. I also enjoy the museum with the original horses and lots of mosaics. Easily worth 3E!

I walk over to San Zaccharia. This church should be on everybody’s must-see list. You start with Bellini’s “Sacra Conversazione” (Madonna & Child with Saints), then pay 1E on the right side to go into the Chapel of St. Athanasius (Tiepolo and Tintoretto) and into the Gold Chapel. Absolutely amazing! From there, you can go down to the 10th Century crypt. The kind of place you’ll want to go back to again and again.

There’s a nice antique store right there on the square, plus Anticlea Antiquariato on Campo San Provolo nearby for antique beads. I love this store. She has a large selection of beads from the 1950’s that you can choose from, and if desired, she will make them into earrings or a pendant while you wait. A great place for inexpensive gifts that are a little different (or of course they can get more expensive if you use a lot of beads).

I find myself just wandering around, mostly without consulting my map, which is fun. I really don’t seem to get as lost in Venice as most people. I end up at Campo San Zulian and do then check the map, as my feet are starting to give out! At least I have generally gone in the right direction towards my hotel, where it’s again time to put my feet up. I’m going to Al Paradiso, Calle de Paradiso in San Polo, for dinner, my favorite restaurant from last time. I start out early to stroll around on the way. Shortly after I’ve left the hotel, there are dark clouds and thunder, so I go back to get my umbrella. This doesn’t really do me a whole lot of good! Not far from the hotel, sure enough, it starts to rain. Well, rain doesn’t really describe what happened! An absolute downpour, with wind added in, so that my slacks are wet all the way down the front. Of course, I'm holding the umbrella against the wind, but it all of a sudden changed direction, and my whole other side is now wet. I duck into a store to wait out the worst, but I'm already so wet, it doesn’t make much difference.

But better things are to come tonight. I tell the owner of the restaurant that I had been there a couple of years ago, and he thanks me for returning. I sit outside and order my favorite Beef Carpaccio, which is divine, and Crisp Sea Bass with Fennel, also an excellent choice. The Panne Cotta with Wild Berry Sauce sounds too good to pass up, and it is! With wine and water, 57.70E. At the next table are ten people who have come from the US, New Zealand, Wales and England to celebrate one of the lady’s birthday. They are having a wonderful time, and I’ve talked to them a little bit. When the owner brings out the Muscato and those almond cookies, I tell the man from the US you have to dunk them in the wine. Anyway, they invite me over to join the party. A very fun group! (The guest of honor said if they hadn’t been British, they certainly would have invited me over sooner. ) I tell the owner that the next time I’m in Venice, I’m just coming here every night. He takes my hand in both of his and thanks me. The group invites me to go with them to San Marco to listen to the orchestras, so we all walk over for that. Lots of fun, and we check out all the orchestras. You really do meet a lot of great people when you travel.

"I'll have info on the food in Bologna, actually not all as good as you would expect."

"But better things were to come tonight", were they ever. What a magical moment in time that followed. I love your report and anxiously await the next installment.

I always enjoy your reports! Keep it coming.

AnnMarie, don't worry, I'm sure there is still plenty of good food in Bologna!
Thanks, Leely, I will do more either later tonight or tomorrow.

Another great report.

bookmarking

So funny, Susan - I saw the title (with the "w") and thought "newbie"

So glad I found this as it is wonderful as usual. More, please . . .
Linda

bookmarking. thx!

Great report! I'm really loving it!

Susan I just love your reports!! You write in such a way that I feel like I am right there beside you. I'm thinking of maybe going back to Venice next year and to Bologna too, so your report is very timely. Looking forward to reading more - can't wait to hear about Rome.

TRSW, thanks. Linda, I was so annoyed when I saw that "w"! sarge and sally, glad you're enjoying it. Hi Barb, one of these times we'll be in Rome at the same time again...

Here's more:

The next morning, I wake up with a sore throat. I know you’re not supposed to be able to catch a cold just from getting wet, but that’s what has happened. I guess I shouldn’t complain, because it’s lucky I wake up when I do. My alarm clock chose this morning for the alarm to die. Things are off to a rocky start, and they’re only going to get worse! I’ve missed breakfast, but fortunately have time to get to the train station in time. I check out and catch the vaporetto to the train station to go to Bologna. I have my ticketless confirmation for the reservation I made at trenitalia.com. I don’t understand the problems everybody seems to have with that website, I always do fine with it. I often want a specific train, so I like to have that reservation ahead of time. Good thing, as it appears that the train is full. I also don’t understand the obsession with only having a 22” suitcase when traveling by train. I have a 26” bag plus a small carryon and my small purse. Yes, it’s a bit of a pain getting it on the train, but not that bad, and really, it’s only a pain for a few minutes. And I do find that there are plenty of gentlemen in the world, and one usually offers to help me. There is no room at the end of the car for my bag, but the husband of the Australian family I am sitting with puts it up in the overhead for me. That’s the other thing…my 26” bag fits in the overhead with no problem.

Now comes the embarrassing part. I really don’t know how it happens. Maybe I can blame the cold I’m getting, and that I’m not feeling that great. I really don’t want to admit this, but I miss the stop in Bologna! Like I say, don’t ask me to explain it. Just so everybody knows, that stop in Bologna is so short, you don’t even realize the train has stopped! Nothing to do but continue on to Florence. Did I mention the train is full? I just stand at the end of the car until we get there. I race in to one of the ticket machines and find there is a train back to Bologna in ½ hour. Perfect! I can now report that the ticket machines are as easy to operate as everyone always says. Just realize that when it prints out your receipt, that is NOT your ticket! I almost walk away without the ticket. You have to push a little door in at the bottom to get the ticket.

I hurry in to get a sandwich, as I’m going to faint if I don’t get something to eat soon. I come back out and go to the track noted on the screen. I get over there and it’s the wrong track! I run back out and see that the board has changed and hurry over to the correct track. Of course, my car is at the far end. After going a ways down the side of the train, I decide I better get on before it leaves and move down to my car inside. Good thing I did! I feel a little better after eating my sandwich, but my sore throat is getting worse. Needless to say, I am right by the door as we pull into Bologna! There is a long flight of stairs up to ground level. I usually just pull it up a step at a time without a problem, but another one of those gentlemen behind me just lifts my bag and carries it up for me.

I take a taxi to my B&B, Accogliente Bologna on Via Nazario Sauro. This place is very small, only two rooms. You are actually in Maria & Roberto’s apartment. They are delightful hosts, and Maria also gives cooking classes, which I’m looking forward to. 60E per night for a single room including breakfast. The two rooms share a bathroom. Everything is spotless. Maria serves the most wonderful breakfasts imaginable. All homemade breads, cakes, jams, yogurt, plus fresh fruit. The most delicious peaches I’ve ever tasted. I’m not a yogurt lover, but the yogurt is better in Italy, and Maria’s is by far the best I’ve had. Who could have thought plain yogurt could be so good? Of course, it’s delicious when the fresh fruit or a spoonful of homemade jam is added as well!

Maria also gives me a map and points out some things to see. I’m afraid I don’t have as much information on Bologna as I normally would, because I just don’t feel very well while I’m there. That evening during dinner, in addition to the sore throat, I can feel my head filling up as well. I walk to Da Cesari, Via dei Carbonesi, 8 for dinner, having a look around on the way. I check out the Neptune Fountain and the Sala Borsa on Piazza Maggiore, which has been turned into a library and has glass floors to show the Roman ruins below. There is a Chaplin retrospective going on and there is a huge movie screen set up in the Piazza and rows and rows of seats set up. Roberto had made a reservation for me at Da Cesari, but it wouldn’t have been necessary. They start out with complimentary Prosecco. The platter of local sausage sliced very thin with red onion & fennel is wonderful and is enough to cover a dinner-size plate. The duck with roasted potatoes and black olive sauce is delicious as well. With ½ bottle of wine, 32.50E. Their complimentary after-dinner drink is Blueberry Grappa! Mmmm…but very strong (and I thought Limoncello was strong!). Definitely something to sip slowly.

The next day I decide to skip my daytrip to Ravenna, even though I really want to go there, because I’m feeling much worse. I do go and see the Basilica di San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore and then Santo Stefano. If you can only see one thing in Bologna, make it Santo Stefano, with the ancient interconnected churches. One of those places you can just feel the age. I’m very glad I went here, despite not feeling well. I do a little shopping on my way back, then just get a sandwich and take it back to my room, where I sleep for a couple of hours.

I do feel a little better when I get up and am ready for my cooking class. Fun! I’ll tell more about it when I continue.

How awful to get sick on your trip, hopefully it doesn't last too long. What a trooper to just keep going regardless. Maybe next year in Roma.

I have only taken one real solo trip and I got sick for part of it. The worst part was that there was no one to feel sorry for me except for...me. You sound much more adult! Hope our next installment finds you on the mend.

So sorry you missed Ravenna. Terrible to have a cold on vacation (have had it happen to me too).

We also thought DaCesari was great -- in fact, I think had the same main course!

Looking forward to the rest . . .

"Just so everybody knows, that stop in Bologna is so short, you don’t even realize the train has stopped!"

lol! You can laugh or you can cry, right?! So sorry you became sick during your trip.

Pausanias, yes, Da Cesari was good.
Barb & Leely, you have to just keep going!
AnnMarie, yes, you have to laugh or cry, and I prefer to laugh. I'm not saying I never get annoyed, but you just can't let these things ruin your trip. When I was in Rome over Christmas and didn't have my luggage for the first five days, I refused to let it ruin my trip. I preferred to look on it as a chance to go shopping in Rome!

Here's some more:

The cooking class is a lot of fun. Maria gives you several menus to choose from, plus you can interchange things if you like. We make Stuffed Zucchini (stuffed with a pork and Parmiggiano filling and cooked with tomato sauce), Cotoletta Bolognese (thin pieces of pork breaded in bread crumbs and Parmiggiano, then layered with Asiago cheese and prosciutto), Potato Gnocchi with tomato sauce, and Pear/Chocolate Cake (really more what we would call a tart). I have a great time, and Maria gives many tips throughout about both the dishes we are making and Bolognese cooking in general. (She also continues the tips at breakfast relating to the things she is serving there.) You get recipes for what you make plus the other choices as well. She offers an additional book for 10E that includes all her desserts. The class is around three hours, then some finishing before serving, for 40E, and of course, we eat the food for our dinner, with Roberto joining us. Everything is delicious (I’m making the Cotoletta Bolognese Saturday night for a friend).

The next morning, I am unfortunately feeling terrible. After breakfast, I go back and lay down for a while. Then I set out to go to a cheese store recommended by Maria & Roberto, because of course I have to buy some Parmiggiano Reggiano! On the way back, I go to San Martino, mainly because it’s right on the way. As usual with most churches in Italy, this is worth a stop. It’s a little out of the central square, but not really very far. Bologna is not that big. Later, after sleeping again, I do take a walk back to Piazza Maggiore and over to Tamburini’s. I had been there briefly the day before, but there had been no seats to eat there. This afternoon, I am luckier. It’s around 3:00, and the place is empty. I mean, not only the tables to sit at, but there is absolutely nobody shopping there, either. You can look over the food offered and choose what you want. I get Bacon rolled around chicken and PR cheese and a Spinach Salad with crisp pancetta and PR cheese with olive oil and Balsamic vinegar as a dressing, plus a glass of the house red wine. The salad is great. I wondered if the chicken would be dry, having been there under the heat lamps all afternoon, and it was, but not bad. I just sit and relax over the lunch. I decide I’d like another glass of wine. After all, the doctor always says to drink lots of fluids when you have a cold, doesn’t he?

Believe it or not, I go back to the room and sleep some more! Later, I go to dinner at Caminetto d’Oro, highly recommended on Fodors. Roberto had also made a reservation for me here, and it was definitely needed. I see several parties turned away. I’m afraid it is a disappointment, except for the appetizer. I order the local ham with figs and fresh cheese. It is wonderful! I debated about my main course, thinking I should order the Tagliatelle Bolognese (after all, this IS Bologna!), but the lamb chops sound so good, I go with them. Should have gone with the Tagliatelle. There are three very tiny lamb chops, but I’m not complaining so much about the quantity. I realize that in Italy, lamb is usually well done, and I can be OK with that, but these were way overcooked, to the point of being dry. With 2 glasses of wine and water, 49.50E. Plus, the service was terrible. I like a nice leisurely dinner, but when you have to wait more than 20 minutes after you have requested the bill (and it took a while to get someone’s attention to even ask for the bill), it’s a bit much. I really can’t recommend this restaurant.

An interesting sideline…Maria asked about my experiences with the restaurants I went to for dinner. She said that it used to be that the restaurants in Bologna mainly served Bolognese dishes, but that there are a lot of new restaurants starting up that only have a couple of Bolognese dishes on the menu, and the rest of the menu is some other cuisine. It seems a shame that a city so known for its local food should have this happen; I don’t think it is a positive trend. Another interesting thing, for a restaurant to open in Bologna, it costs 100,000 Euro for the registration fee, compared to Germany, where the registration is free. So anybody opening a restaurant in Bologna has to have big bucks, when you consider that fee plus the real estate and everything else that goes into opening a restaurant.

Maria graciously agrees to have breakfast at 7:00 the next morning (it’s usually more like 8:30-9:30) so I can get my train to Rome in time. With so few guests, they can tailor it to what is needed. I have thoroughly enjoyed staying with them. I’m not sure this is the sort of accommodation for everyone. You are really staying with someone in their home. Much different from a hotel, or even what you usually think of as a B&B. I would definitely stay here again. I want more of Maria’s breakfasts, and I would definitely take another cooking class! These two things, plus my desire to go to Ravenna (not to mention the other things I didn’t see due to not feeling well), mean I just may have to return to Bologna! And if anyone is wondering whether Italian men wear shorts, Roberto is in shorts the entire time I am there!

I am feeling a little better this morning. My cold is far from gone (it’s not even completely gone now, 2-1/2 weeks later), but the worst seems to be over. Not that I don’t like Bologna, but I’d rather be sick here than in Rome. I take a taxi to the train station and get on the train to Rome. I do sleep a little on the trip. After all, I don’t have to worry about missing the stop. Rome is the end of the line! I get off the train and walk out to the taxi line. Ahhh, yes, I’m in ROME. My favorite place! Rome has its own energy. It’s in the air! I can FEEL it as soon as I step out of the train station. For me, it’s like coming home.

More to come...

Fascinating! I'm waiting to hear more!What a shame about the cold, but you made lemonade (limoncello?, lol) from lemons very well.

Virgogirl, definitely Limoncello!

(By the way, I'm a Virgo, too)

Hi Susan, so great to see another trip report from you. I knew immediately it was yours from the title (even with the w). How fabulous that you keep returning to Rome..I feel the same way about Positano and will be making my annual trip there in Sept., also visiting Barcelona and Amsterdam for the first time.

Are you actively planning to relocate to Rome in the near future? I dream of one day living in Italy too, even if only part-time and would be happy to have a fellow expat to drop in on in Roma!

It sounds like you had another amazing adventure and I am really enjoying reading about it. Can you be my trip report mentor, ha ha.

Hope to see you again in Italy some day.
JenV

Loving your report, Susan--sorry you got sick!! Eager for more....................

Susan, am new to this forum, but you seem to know about rome, my family and i are planning to go there in december, do not have any idea where to stay (husband, 2 children) any advise would be great. Thanks.

Hi Jen, great to hear from you. I only wish I COULD move to Rome in the near future. There's just this one little problem of having to support myself!

Thanks, lovesroses.

MAC, I would look into apartments for a family of four. I think the best location is in the triangle between Piazza Navona, Campo de' Fiori and the Pantheon. Close to a lot, good bus connections, lots of good restaurants closeby. Will you be there over Christmas? I was there his past Christmas and New Year's, so here's my trip report to help you get started:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34922204

And for more info, here are two previous reports:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34687434

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34780400

SusanP--I have certainly enjoyed your trip report. We love Italy and were there mid-May.

Would it be possible for you to post the recipe for Cotoletta Bolognese? It sounds yummy. Many thanks.

Yes, my husband wants to go the Mass at the Vatican, any suggestions on where to look for an apartment, and the prices in $$s.
Thanks.

Hi Susan

I have to tell you, I am a big fan of your trip reports. I can't wait to read your Rome installment, it's my favorite city, too, and your trip reports always make me feel as if I am there.

Hope you are feeling better,

Johanna

Hello SusanP!
I'm so glad to find your entertaining trip report. (I still remember how much I enjoyed your Tuscan report from the past.) Yeah - Venice adventures! Sad - sick in Bologna! You remind me of how much I love Italy. It makes me yearn to return soon - not sure it's going to happen til next Spring. I, too, have enjoyed traveling by myself having vacationed alone in Paris. Looking forward to more...

Katie, I just got home from a concert I had tonight but will post the recipe tomorrow. It's really very easy.

MAC, I have always used www.sleepinitaly.com for apartments. There are other agencies as well. If you do a search here, you should be able to find them. The prices will be in Euro. Why do you need to see them in dollars? Just convert it. The exchange rate has been between $1.30 and $1.35 per Euro.

Thanks, Johanna & dorkforcemom, glad you're enjoying it. I will write more tomorrow.

Hi SusanP, this is SusanC! I enjoyed travelling solo too. I'm sorry your cold hangs on. Did you go to a pharmacy while there?
Gorgonzola and pistacchio's huh? OH-MY...
Thank you for this report, a lot of fun.

Susan...you're my kind of traveler!! You had very similar experiences with the train that my husband and I had this past spring. Some stops are oh so short and our cars always seemed to be located at the very back. Getting to the right platform is often tricky and we lugged our bags up a whole lot of stairs getting to some of them. I must say I much prefer having a rent car...even if it means parking on the outskirts of a large city and taking a taxi into our apartment or hotel. I'm loving your report and am reliving our most recent trip to beloved Italy. Keep it coming!

Great read, Susan. Brings back memories from my stay with Maria and Roberto last October. It IS a wonderful place to stay. And breakfasts were indeed fabulous, different each morning. I had 7 of them...

I'm finally back. SuzieC, yes, I did go to the pharmacie. They gave me one thing for the throat and another for the stuffed-up nose. The lady was apologetic that her English wasn't that good. Ha! I told her she had been a great help, and that her English was far better than my Italian! She was extremely helpful.

carol, yes you have to be quick at some of those stops!

Keren, yes, Maria & Roberto are great. When I get back to Bologna, I will definitely stay with them.

Katie, here is the recipe for Cotoletta Bolognese:

Whisk together egg (2 eggs for 4-6 slices), 2 teaspoons grated Parmiggiano and salt and pepper and marinate very thin slices of pork (about 1/4" thick) for at least 1/2 day.

Dredge pork in a coating of bread crumbs, Parmiggiano and salt & pepper. Pat the coating firmly into the pork.

Fry the pork in sunflower oil for a couple minutes per side. Drain on paper towel. Arrange in a pan and top each slice of pork with a couple of slices of Asiago cheese (just enough to hold the prosciutto in place), top with a slice of proscuitto, then cover completely with more slices of Asiago. You can do it up to this point ahead and finish it just before serving. You can add just a touch of water to the pan. Cover and heat until the cheese melts (we did this on top of the stove, but I think you could do it in the oven on a low heat). This also finishes cooking the pork. Serve immediately.

More on Rome to follow.

OK, here's a little bit on Rome:

I take a taxi to my apartment, booked through SleepinItaly. They are great to work with, and this is the third time I’ve booked my apartment with them. It’s Vicolo delle Vacche – Bis, Vicolo delle Vacche, 5, a ground-floor apartment (there are three steps up to the apartment). It’s a great apartment with the kitchen area separate from the bedroom. The website says it’s between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, but that’s not really accurate. It’s just west of Piazza Navona, right by Piazza Fico. A fabulous location. It has a real double bed--actually, I think it’s a queen (not two twins pushed together)--plus I think the couch opens up into an additional single bed, but just so you know, it’s right in the same room. The air conditioning is good. Kitchen has an electric stove and under-the-counter refrigerator. The bathroom is small but not too small. The shower is, of course, also small, but not the smallest I’ve had, and it’s a real enclosed shower, so you’re not getting the floor all wet. It does have the shower head attached to the wall that you have to move around yourself. I know this is a real problem for some people, but I don’t see it as that big a thing. The water pressure and drain are both good, much more important to me. The only real drawback is that the hot water doesn’t last that long, so you need to take a quick shower or turn the water off while you’re soaping up. Personally, I find this to be a small thing considering a great apartment in a wonderful location. There was only one towel and the toilet paper was almost gone, so the guy meeting me called the owner and both were delivered that day. 110 Euro per night plus a 35 Euro cleaning fee. I would definitely stay here again.

I suppose I don’t do as much in Rome as most people want to do during their visit. This is my fourth visit, so I’ve seen a lot of the major things (although I still have some to go) and like to seek out the lesser known places. I like to just enjoy Rome. Plus, I’ve made a few friends there and like to spend some time with them. If there are gaps in my report, that’s probably what I was doing. The thing is, even the lesser known churches in Rome are fabulous. Wonderful art, sculpture, gold, etc. And there are very few people in them. If people had more time when they’re in Rome, they would find that you could spend months there and still not see everything.

I head over to my favorite spot, the Piazza Navona. It’s not the least bit crowded. That’s the surprising thing about this trip. I’m in Rome in high season, and it’s really not that crowded. Not even in the Piazza Navona. Even in the evening, there are a lot of people there, but it’s certainly not mobbed. I keep wondering where all the people are and decide they must be at the Vatican and the Colosseum, and in talking to a woman at the airport when leaving (it happened to be the same family I had been on the train with from Bologna to Rome!), she confirms this idea. And I never have any trouble with those vendors who want to stick their wares in your face. I just say no and they go away and leave me alone. I’ve never had a problem with one continuing to pursue me. I don’t know if it’s the way I say “no” (I don’t think I’m particularly intimidating) or some other reason, but they don’t bother me.

One other thing, just a couple of days before I left on my trip, I read a thread about the horrible situation in Rome with crowds of people drinking and moving from bar to bar and generally ruining the whole atmosphere of Rome. I never see any of that while I’m here, and this is July. On my first night (a Friday), I do see exactly two young guys walking around in the Piazza Navona with open bottles of wine, and it appears as though it isn’t their first bottle, but they aren’t causing any commotion or bothering anybody. I’m happy to see that I’m not seeing the things going on that the newspaper had reported.

I walk around and make a couple of dinner reservations. In the midst of this, I am starving and thirsty and stop at the first place I see that looks like I can have something small and inexpensive. Believe it or not, it’s the Bulldog Inn (sounds very British, doesn’t it?) on Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II. I have a perfectly lovely lunch of Papavero Salad (a huge salad of arugula, tomato and lots of large shavings of Parmiggiano) and water for 7.25 Euro. I go back to the apartment to put my feet up and get a shower before dinner.

I'll try to do more in the next couple of days.

Susan,

So sorry about the head cold. I too caught one when I was in Bologna. And due to it and a steady downpour, I canceled a daytrip to Parma and Modena. Just means I need to go back.

Tom

SusanP--Many thanks for taking the time to post the recipe. I can't wait to try it.

Again, I'm thoroughly enjoying reading your trip report. Italy is one of our favorite countries. What's not to like about it? The people, food, scenery are all terrific.

From another Virgo - I have the exact same feeling upon arriving back in Rome - like somehow I am home. It has such a vibrancy and that soft, sweet air is irrisistable. Your report is giving me goosebumps. I wish I was there right now.

bookmarking

So maybe that's it - Virgos love Rome. I'm one too and from the first moment of my first visit to Rome I felt like I was at home. Great trip report.

I'm also a Virgo. Maybe Virgos just love Italy!

Well, I'm not a Virgo, but I love Rome, too.

Continuing to enjoy your trip report Susan. I really enjoy how Rome feels like home to you since you have been so many times. Please continue . . .

Hi again, SusanP

Just wanted to let you know I fixed the Cotoletta Bolognese for dinner tonight. It was a big hit and so delicious.

Thanks again for the recipe.

Tom, yes, there's always a reason to go back, isnt' there?

Well, Barb, viaggiatrice, & Katie, here's to all the Virgos! LC, that's OK if you're not one , glad you're enjoying the report. Katie, so glad you enjoyed the recipe!

Here's a little more:

I go to Il Bacaro for dinner, one of the reservations I had made earlier, Via d. Spagnoli, northeast of Piazza Navona, a favorite from a previous trip. This is a very small place, you have to be really lucky to get in without a reservation. I am seated inside and order Beef in Herb Oil and a Fennel/Cheese Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette Dressing. It’s delicious. Just one problem, I’m sitting right underneath the fan for the air conditioning, and it’s cooling off my meat too fast! Next time, I’ll be sure to request an outdoor seat. With 2 glasses of wine and water, 42E. After dinner, I go and do my favorite thing in Rome, enjoy a Limoncello at Café Barocco on the Piazza Navona and watch the people, artists, and performers. I like to end every day this way, another reason why I like to stay close to Piazza Navona. People-watching is so interesting. It’s a never-ending wonder to me how couples end up together. I mean, really, when you think about it, it’s amazing that so many people DO find the person they want to marry! I have to smile at one couple who are kissing, and it’s obvious that they aren’t used to doing this in public, but when in Rome…

As mentioned, I’m out to see some of the lesser-known places in Rome. The next morning, I get some beautiful cherries from the small market a few steps from my apartment and head over to Campo de’ Fiori on my way to Trastavere. I stop and get several herb blends from the herb guy in the Campo. This turns out to be another reason that it’s good to have large zip-loc bags with you. He twirls the bag into a cone shape that would bust open if any pressure were put on it when packed in a suitcase. I open the bag, flatten out the herbs and put each in a zip-loc bag. Works great! I’m on my way to the western end of Trastavere to Villa Farnesina, via della Lungara, 230 (5E entry fee). It has frescoes by Raphael and Baldassarre Peruzzi, the Room of the Marriage of Alexander the Great & Roxana, and more. Maybe a dozen people are here. Also, the grounds are beautiful. It feels like you’re in a park. I go to Palazzo Corsini, right across the street, and am wondering if I really want to go up that very long flight of stairs ahead of me. The decision is taken out of my hands, because it turns out that it’s closed due to a staff shortage!

Next, I go to the Botanical Gardens (4E entry fee). This is a large, beautiful, peaceful area. Lots of palm trees and ferns, very green. I see around five other people. I did expect more things in bloom. There was exactly one rose in bloom in the rose garden! The other thing to remember is that this area is the start of the Gianicolo hill. Lots of uphill climbing. I enjoy this very much but am very thirsty (I forgot my water bottle), not to mention hungry, so I don’t stay as long as I might have. I head back towards Ponte Sisto to find somewhere for lunch. I never get around to writing down the name of the café, but it’s on Via della Scala right where that meets both Via Garibaldi and Via d. Pte. Settimiana. The salad of pear, arugula and large shavings of parmiggiano is delicious. It really hits the spot. With water and ¼ liter of house wine, 10E.

Hi Susan,

I am glad you are searching out lesser known places in Rome. I will be there for my second visit in 89 days for eight nights(but whos counting).And the timing of your report is perfect.

Also, can I ask you to please share the rest of the recipes from your cooking class? It all sounds sooo good!! As a Chef (glorified line cook)I always love to try new things. Thanks.

Tom

Thanks for a wonderful trip Susan! Can I ask a stupid question or two.

Lemoncello: I know it's a liquor, but do you drink it straight up or on the rocks and ....

Spritz: I've read about this Venician drink on other Forums. Is this like a wine spritzer here in the States?

Thanks for helping

OK, Tom, here goes:

Stuffed Zucchini:
Short, fat baby zucchini
Filling:
Parmiggiano, grated, 50g
ground pork, 600g
1 egg
parsley
garlic
1 piece of bread soaked in milk
salt/pepper

Hollow out the center of the zucchini (Maria had a neat tool for this, it could also be used to core an apple).
Mix all filling ingredients well and stuff in the zucchini.
Fry stuffed zucchini in olive oil 5 mins on high heat, then 5 mins on medium heat. Add tomato sauce and milk to cover. Cover and cook about 40 mins. After first 20 mins, add the cores of the zucchini and meatballs from leftover stuffing. Cook 30 mins. At end, add salt & pepper.

The gnocchi is a little long to explain, and you really need to see the technique demonstrated of rolling them off the fork at the end.

Pear & Chocolate Cake (really what we would call a tart):
Crust:
300g soft wheat flour type 00
150g butter, room temperature
15g baking powder
1 whole egg
2 egg yolks
150g sugar
pinch salt
lemon zest (organic is better)

Mix ingredients until soft. Spread a little flour on your board, knead gently. Form a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, refrigerate about 1 hour, especially in summer.
Roll 1 cm thick and put in springform pan. Edge of the crust should be 1 cm high around the edge. Pierce with fork.
Layer with 100g crushed amaretti biscuits (or biscotti) to absorb the moisture.
Peel, core and thinly slice 4-5 pears and spread over biscuits. Top with 50g more of crushed amaretti biscuits and 100g of unsweetened chocolate shavings.
Preheat oven.
Bake 40-50 mins. at (I think) 350 degrees.
Enough for 2 cakes. Can be wrapped and frozen. Or leave in the oven for the next day.

Mmmm...

Grazzie!!!!

Oh, and Tom, I love that you know it's 89 days until you go to Italy!

On that zucchini recipe, I added an additional 30 mins. cooking. It should be 20 mins., add zucchini cores and meatballs, then 20 more mins. Ignore that 30 mins!

bashamj, I'm afraid I haven't had a spritz and at the moment, the ingredients escape me. Maybe someone else knows. Limoncello is an after-dinner drink. It is served very cold, so it doesn't need ice. If you have some at home, keep it in the freezer. It's 30% alcohol, so it won't freeze, it will just be delicious!

One more thing, Tom, for the crust on the cake, measurements are extremely important. Maria insists that you need to weigh them (much like Julia Child always insisted that you weigh ingredients for real French bread). I need to get scale that has both metric and ounces/pounds!

Here's a little more, I'll try to finish soon:

Later, I need to decide where to go for dinner. It’s Saturday night, and I don’t have a reservation. I know, I know…not a good idea according to ekscrunchy! Oh well, I’m flexible, so I’m sure I’ll do OK. I’ve read a lot about Ditirambo and decide to try that. I really don’t expect to get in without a reservation. Thanks to someone’s excellent directions, I find it easily and realize that I almost walked by it every day last year when I stayed just off of Campo de’ Fiori. Of course, they ask if I have a reservation and I have to tell them I don’t. Some people say you have more luck with a walk-in like this if you’re nicely dressed. I don’t know if that’s always true, but I am nicely dressed and he gives me a table. I choose to sit outside. Their olive bread is delicious. I start with Wheat Pasta with Crab & Artichoke Cream. It looks great. It’s delicious. The only problem is that there is this huge crab claw in the middle of the dish and no graceful way to crack it open! In the US, they would give you something to crack it with. I do my best to get most of the delicious crab meat out but don’t succeed with getting it all.

I move on to the Steak with demiglaze. I tell the waiter I want it done rare. He asks if I mean bloody, and I say no, red but not bloody, and he seems to instantly know what I want. There’s nothing quite so good as a perfectly done steak. The meat is tender, juicy, and perfectly cooked. I was expecting a small piece, and thought I would go over to the Piazza Navona after dinner and have room for Tartufo at Tre Scalini, but the steak is NOT small. And it’s so good, of course, I have to eat the whole thing. OK, no dessert tonight! I will definitely have to go back some time and have that steak again. With ½ bottle of wine, 39E. Of course, I do go over to Piazza Navona anyway and have my Limoncello. And I have to get a painting from my artist friend there. Well, OK, two, but one is really a gift. A lovely evening.

SusanP--Your fans are waiting for the continuation of your trip report.

We are going in late October to Italy. I have enjoyed your report. Thank you for taking the time to give us such enjoyment

Wow!!! Thanks SusanP and keep it coming. As another Romaholic, if I survive the next 81 days, my taxi will stop at Giolitti. Then I will walk to my SleepInItaly apt. in your neighborhood. How can one fall asleep in Rome without first spending at least an hour in Piazza Navona? Not that I ever want to find out. Thanks again for another wonderful trip report.

Dear Susan, I am really enjoying your trip report! I can hardly wait to finally see Rome.....55 days and counting! Someone referenced your earlier Tuscany Trip Report--I am going to have to try to locate it; I'd love to read it too! Thanks again!

Your trip report makes me want to be there now. I leave in 56 days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bkmk

Thanks for writing such a wonderful trip report~I just told my husband I'll have to stop reading it though because it is making me want to return to Italy...which isn't in the budget since we have a trip to Asia coming up in November. Thanks again for the detailed report!

Susan,
We'll be there in 3 weeks. I'm just finishing with a cold and I hope my husband gets it BEFORE we go! Loving your report. Thanks, Helaine

Katie, sorry, I have been busy but will go write some more now.

jrecm, glad you're enjoying it.
Gianni, yes, I have to be in the Piazza Navona at least once a day. Since I always stay close to it, it's usually more than that, as I pass through it on the way to other places.

lovesroses, I wish I were going back in only 55 days! If you look above at my post on 7/20, I gave the url's for my trip reports. After the first one, where I give the two previous ones, the first of those two is the one that includes Tuscany. Enjoy!

Amante, lucky you, only 56 days!
stragic & boatgirl, glad you're enjoying the report. I'll go write more now.

OK, here's more:

The next morning, I’m off to Piazza di Popolo. I’ve done this walk a couple of times before, and there’s a section of Via di Ripetta that was always closed. It’s finally open this time and goes by San Rocco (which is closed, but at least I see the outside), the Museum of Ara Pacis, where there’s a Valentino exhibit going on, and Augustus’ Masoleum. So I see things I wasn’t even expecting. When I get to Piazza di Popolo, I decide to go in Santa Maria d. Mircoli, which had also been closed the other times. I have to admit I’m not very impressed. Very dark. However, Santa Maria del Popolo makes up for it. The Sunday morning service is going on, so I quietly walk along the left side of the church. I love Bernini’s Daniel (don’t miss the lion at his feet) and Habbakuk. You can’t get up to the alcove where the Caravaggio’s are, as it’s blocked off. At first, I wonder why, but then realize you would be walking right in front of the organist. So I just sit down and wait for the end of the service, which isn’t long, and of course, it’s worth it to see the Conversion of St. Paul and Crucifixion of St. Peter. I spend some more time looking at the rest of the church before heading back outside. This is the only church I visit where there are more than ten people. Even though it’s somewhat crowded, it’s not mobbed.

It’s a beautiful day. I’m not that crazy about the Spanish Steps, I mean I just don’t think they’re that great, but I’ve never been here in summer. Since I’m so close, I decide I’ll check them out to see if they’re really as wonderful as everyone says with all the flowers out. OK, so when exactly do they put all the flowers out? Because this is July, and there isn’t even one flower anywhere on the Spanish Steps! So much for that myth…

I go a little further to Piazza Mignanelli, and since I’m hungry and thirsty, stop at the Mignanelli Café for lunch. The Pizza Margherita is great, but watch out for this place. The wine isn’t listed on the menu, and I make the mistake of just ordering a glass of the house wine without asking how much it will cost. I can’t believe it when I get the bill. One glass of wine is 7E! Truly a tourist rip-off. Fortunately, I really haven’t run into a lot of those. Usually, a glass of house wine at a café is somewhere between 2E and 3.5E.

I work my way down (or I should say up, as it’s quite a climb) to Via d. Quattro Fontane. Hmmm…guess I’ve somehow never read much about this. I didn’t realize it’s four separate fountains on each corner of the intersection! I’m headed to San Carlo alle Quattro, which is closed and Sant’ Andrea al Quirinale, which is also closed but due to reopen in about 15 minutes. I sit down on the porch to wait. OK, everybody has to go here. This is a real gem! The sculpture, the dome, the gold…definitely one of my favorites. The recessed dome has a gorgeous dove, and around the rim of the dome are all these cupid sculptures peeking over the edge, plus a cluster of them just below the edge. Rather playful, I just love it! I sit in here for a while just enjoying it all. There are maybe five people here.

I’m not done yet. I continue down Via del Quirinale to Piazza d. Quirinale. Quite impressive as you walk into this large square, with a large fountain with (I think) Castor & Pollux. And, of course, the President’s House. You’re up high, so it has a good view over part of Rome as well. I head down Via d. Dataria off the northwestern corner of the Piazza, and now I’m going down, down, and down some more! I have to make a gelato stop, as I really need to sit down for a bit. After a rest, I continue on to Via del Corso, where I decide I can’t walk any further and catch a bus back to Piazza Navona. Definitely time to put my feet up!

I decide to try the Old Bear restaurant someone here recommended. It’s just off Via d’Orso, I think it’s Via d. Gigli, just north of Piazza Navona. I order the Marinated Salmon w/Sweet Peppers and Taglialini w/Truffle Sauce, thinking maybe it’s not going to be a huge meal and this time I’ll have room for that Tartufo later. Well, the salmon completely covers a dinner-size plate. Even though it’s delicious, there’s no way I can finish it and still have room for any pasta. The pasta is also very good and a generous portion, which I again can’t finish, so I guess I won’t have room for dessert again. With ½ liter house wine, 22.40E. It’s been a long day, but not long enough to miss my Limoncello in Piazza Navona!

Well, I've finally had time to finish my report. Of course, when I referred to cupids above, I meant cherubs!

Here's the rest:

The next morning, I take the bus to the Labicana stop, behind the Colosseum. Right there at the stop is the Lodus Magnus, where they did gladiator training, then across the street is a steep walk up to Parco Oppio, with the Baths of Trajan and Domus Aurea (which is closed, as I expected). This is another nice park area around the Baths and runs right into Parco di Traiano. The whole area is beautiful, with great views. In this whole large area, I pass maybe a half dozen people! I guess they’re all over on the other side of the Colosseum. After enjoying the park for a while, I head down Via Mecenate, as my ultimate goal is SS Quattro Coronati. I’m hungry, but there aren’t a lot of cafes or restaurants around here. I stop at Il Re del Tramazzino and have a prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich. Nothing special, but not bad. For the sandwich and a bottle of water, it’s 5.50E.

I continue on past San Clemente (which I’ve visited before) to SS Quattro Coronati, the 4th Century fortified convent. It’s another steep walk up to the entrance. A young woman is doing restoration work in one of the alcoves. I know you are supposed to be able to ring a bell at the right side of the inner courtyard to have a nun let you into the chapel. I find the turntable, but there is no bell and no apparent way to be let in. Even without getting into the chapel, I really enjoy this church and the frescoes. Like San Stefano in Bologna, it’s a place where you can just feel the age. While I’m sitting there, a nun does come in and get her Bible and sits down to read it, but since she’s reading and is in the inaccessible part of the sanctuary up by the altar, I really don’t feel I can ask her about the chapel. There are two other people in the church; then they leave and it’s just me and the nun. Very peaceful, as most of the churches I visit during this trip are, not something most people associate with Rome!

I walk back over to Labicana and catch the bus to Via Marmorata, because I just have to go to Volpetti’s. I’m a bit early (they don’t reopen after the afternoon closing until 5:00 pm), but I’m definitely waiting. Don’t want to miss all that wonderful cheese! Although I bought Parmiggiano Reggiano in Bologna, I decide to get a little more for my son. The guy gives me another cheese to taste which is good, but I point to the Pecorino Romano (I just love Pecorino). After wrapping that up, he wants me to go to the other side of the store to taste another one. Note to self: Don’t taste cheese before looking at the price, because you will absolutely love the cheese and then find out that it is VERY expensive. He gives me a piece of Pecorino dei Basilischi. It’s to die for. I have to have some. It costs over 45E per kilogram! I succumb and have him cut me a slab. After cutting the piece, he points to the moisture inside and gives me a thumbs up. He then starts giving me samples of balsamic vinegar and truffle oil. I soon have to explain that it’s just going to cost too much, plus I can’t put too many glass bottles in my suitcase! I do end up with a small bottle of truffle oil. And I’m thoroughly enjoying the Pecorino dei Basilischi! I leave the store before I’m completely broke and take the bus back to my apartment to rest before dinner.

That first day in Rome, I had made a reservation at Armando al Pantheon for dinner tonight. Reservations definitely needed here. I start with Bruschetta a Pomodoro. It is absolutely wonderful. I could make a whole meal of this! I then have a dilemma in that I want the Grilled Scarmoza (ekscrunchy raved about this) but I love Beef Carpaccio, and that sounds good. The problem is that they are both main courses. The waitress agrees to give me ½ order of the Beef. The Scarmoza is excellent, although I have to say it’s not quite as good as the Grilled Pecorino I had in Pienza a couple of years ago. The Beef Carpaccio is delicious. I end with Panne Cotta with small strawberries that is smooth and creamy and yummy. With ½ bottle wine and small water, just over 40E. I decide to make a reservation to come back tomorrow night. And of course, I end with my Limoncello in Piazza Navona.

The next morning, I can’t believe it’s the last day of my trip. I’m not ready to go home yet! I take the bus to the Petroselli stop, because I see it will be a short walk across Ponte Palatino to St. Cecilia in Trastavere. There are beautiful views from the bridge. I’m the only one in the sanctuary to view the beautiful mosaics in the dome over the altar. Another thing that might be easily missed is the alcove (behind iron bars) on the right side at the very front of the church. A very cool sculpture and three-dimensional mosaic design to picture going down a hallway with mosaics on the ceiling of the hallway. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. Of course, you must go down to the crypt. There was a charge which I didn’t write down, but it was very little. Walk through the interesting excavations (although I think this is the place where the explanations were only in Italian) to the end, where there is an absolutely exquisite mosaic chapel. There are exactly two other people down there with me, so I can stand there gazing at it as long as I like. Really amazing!

I continue on to San Francesco a Ripa to see Bernini’s Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni. I really love Bernini. It is beautiful. There are other nice sculptures here as well. There are two other people here. I wander over through Piazza Santa Maria in Trastavere, over Ponte Sisto and through Campo de’ Fiori. I’m looking for a little sandwich place on Via d. Giubbonari, but it’s gone. However, there is a clothing store I like, so I go there instead! When I’m done, I still need lunch, so across the Campo is Pizza al Taglia on Via del Pellegrino, where I’ve had lunch several times on previous trips (once I was staying very close to it). They weigh the pizza and it is delicious. With water, 3.97E.

After relaxing back in the Piazza Navona for a little while, I get some gelato at Blue Ice on the way back to my apartment. One scoop of Limoncello, one of Bacio (chocolate & nuts). I think I’ve died and gone to heaven! I’ve always loved the nicoccia and coconut, but maybe I have new favorite flavors.

I return to Armando al Pantheon and again have the Bruschetta Pomodoro, then the lamb chops and roasted potatoes. It is delicious again. With ½ bottle wine and water. 30.50E. I go and enjoy my last Limoncello in Piazza Navona. Once again, I had planned a daytrip from Rome, probably to Tivoli and Hadrian’s Villa, but somehow I never get around to it. I guess I just don’t want to leave Rome once I get there! On the way home, I am starting to figure out when I can afford to come again!

I'd be happy to answer any questions.

Thank you for the report, it was really informative, I have made notes. Sounds like a wonderful trip for sure.

Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful report.
Last time I've been to rome was October 2006. I truly need to go back. I physically long for it.

Bravo, Bravo!!! Your reports are so very well done. I still remember having a lovely dinner with you in Rome a few years ago. After reading your report, I can hardly wait to making my 4th trip to this great city.

Hi Susan,

Thanks for another great, detailed trip report! I really enjoy traveling vicariously through you since you get to go more often than I do.

Ciao!

ttt

Susan, once again - an absolutely lovely report. With many others here, I share your love of Rome. I hope some day I am able to take the time that you do to really investigate and appreciate this wonderful city. In the meantime, thank you for sharing your experiences and please continue to go as often as you can and share more!

SusanP,

You've sold me on the nightly limoncello in Piazza Navona. Our hotel is close to the piazza, but we are only in Rome for two nights. You can bet we will spend both having a late-night limoncello at your favorite little spot. We are going in October and will raise our glass to you first night!

I think we're also going to get reservations at the Armando al Pantheon for the first night. Can't wait!!!

Thanks for your lovely and detailed reports. These are the "undiscovered" spots I can't wait to discover!

Paula

Thank you again for a marvelous report. Sigh, wish I was in Roma right now, even with the heat and crowds!

I am impressed how well you got around using the bus. Did you have any problems figuring out which buses to use? I have vowed to take the plunge and master the buses the next time I am there - hopefully next year.

Isn't Volpetti's just the best. I can still remember the lovely aroma there, but I can also remember the long walk, carrying about a ten pound bag of goodies all the way back to the apt. in Trastevere.

SeaUrchin, thanks, I always enjoy your reports as well.
Keren, I know just what you mean--I'm addicted!
Hi Mike, nice to hear from you! Glad you're able to go back to Rome.
Dayle, we seem to often like the same things, maybe we'll be there at the same time sometime.
LC, I will be happy to oblige and go as often as I can!
Paula, enjoy the Limoncello. I always do!
Barb, other than a couple of times, I really haven't had trouble with the Rome buses. At each stop, there are signs with the bus numbers and a list underneath of all the stops they make going in each direction. I much prefer it to trying the Metro, and of course they go a lot more places. One thing I do that I started on my first trip is, each time I take a bus somewhere, I write down the number and where it took me. I have found this to be helpful if I want to go to the same area again, since I always stay in the same area. The one thing about the signs is that it won't always list the actual street you want, so you need to have a map handy so you can see what is near your destination. I never go anywhere without my Streetwise Rome map!

Good suggestions about the bus. Ok, I am printing out your report now for next time I'm there!!

SusanP,

Thank you for another great report. And thanks for some great dining options. I can't wait to return to Roma!!

Tom

PS Yes there must be something about us Virgos loving Rome.

Barb, have fun trying the buses.

Tom, glad you enjoyed it. I would love to have dinner in Rome tonight!

Bookmarking for later.

Guidebook writer's tips connected with SusanP's report:
-Volpetti also has a stall in the market at Piazza dell'Unità on Via Cola di Rienzo (Vatican area) so you dont have to trek all the way to the Pyramide
-rent an apt. if you dont want to spend a ton on restaurants (susanp spent in her 11 days what we spend in a month for an entire family!)
-SusanP any time you come to Italy please come and visit-your insights are wonderful, it makes me remember when I first arrived (Sept 8th, 1965) with my Sears Roebuck suitcases which I still have here.
-the articles on Rome on www.elegantetruria.com have been written over the years...I hope you enjoy them
-