Italy Trip Report - March 2008
Mar 21st, 2008, 07:54 AM
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Italy Trip Report - March 2008
This is Part I of our trip report (March 9 - 19th)
Trip Itinerary
11 days (including travel days). Five nights in Palestrina (outside Rome) staying at Anne’s Place B&B. Three nights in Sorrento, staying at Il Roseto B&B. One night in Rome at the Hotel Golden. Third trip to Italy (first trip was 10 days in Rome; second trip was 10 days in Florence.)
Days 1 & 2:
We left on Northwest Airlines from Boston through Amsterdam to Rome. The flight was routine, with typical airline food and service. The Amsterdam airport is large and clean with good signage. We had to walk from one end of the airport to the other to catch the connecting flight to Rome, which felt refreshing after sitting like a sardine for seven hours.
Our flight arrived in Rome on schedule. We made our way to the train station, and bought tickets for the Leonardo Express. The weather was cool and dreary, and Rome looked dirtier and more graffiti-ridden than I remembered from our first visit. Upon arrival in Termini, we obtained some euros from the ATM and bought our tickets to Palestrina (2,30 euros). The ride to Palestrina took about 35 minutes, and as the city gave way to suburbs and finally the countryside, we wondered if we had made a mistake in staying so far away from the center of the city. The contact point in Palestrina with Anne’s place was closed, so we had some trouble finding a way to call the B&B. Finally, we were able to contact the B&B – Anne’s husband David picked us up and drove us to our lodging place.
By the end our stay at Anne’s Place, our misgivings about its location were allayed by the helpfulness and kindness of our hosts, Anne and David. In addition, we truly enjoyed getting know our fellow guests. After dealing with the hustle and bustle of Rome, it was very relaxing to spend time in a peaceful small town (with Anne and David providing safety net). Spending time at Anne’s Place was something like going to summer camp for adults.
Day 3
We took the train into Rome, and walked through some familiar spots to become reacquainted with Rome and to walk off jetlag – St. Peters Square, Ponte Sant’ Angelo, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Barberini, Via Veneto and Villa Borghese. Near St. Peters, we had gelato at our favorite shop in Italy – Old Bridge (across the street from where people line up to get into the Vatican Museum). We visited the Museum of Modern Art, which actually covers the period from the 1800s to the present. The museum portrayed an interesting look at Italian art and cultural history during this timeframe. Back in Palestrina, we ate dinner at Lo Schiribizzo, a low-key family-run place.
Trip Itinerary
11 days (including travel days). Five nights in Palestrina (outside Rome) staying at Anne’s Place B&B. Three nights in Sorrento, staying at Il Roseto B&B. One night in Rome at the Hotel Golden. Third trip to Italy (first trip was 10 days in Rome; second trip was 10 days in Florence.)
Days 1 & 2:
We left on Northwest Airlines from Boston through Amsterdam to Rome. The flight was routine, with typical airline food and service. The Amsterdam airport is large and clean with good signage. We had to walk from one end of the airport to the other to catch the connecting flight to Rome, which felt refreshing after sitting like a sardine for seven hours.
Our flight arrived in Rome on schedule. We made our way to the train station, and bought tickets for the Leonardo Express. The weather was cool and dreary, and Rome looked dirtier and more graffiti-ridden than I remembered from our first visit. Upon arrival in Termini, we obtained some euros from the ATM and bought our tickets to Palestrina (2,30 euros). The ride to Palestrina took about 35 minutes, and as the city gave way to suburbs and finally the countryside, we wondered if we had made a mistake in staying so far away from the center of the city. The contact point in Palestrina with Anne’s place was closed, so we had some trouble finding a way to call the B&B. Finally, we were able to contact the B&B – Anne’s husband David picked us up and drove us to our lodging place.
By the end our stay at Anne’s Place, our misgivings about its location were allayed by the helpfulness and kindness of our hosts, Anne and David. In addition, we truly enjoyed getting know our fellow guests. After dealing with the hustle and bustle of Rome, it was very relaxing to spend time in a peaceful small town (with Anne and David providing safety net). Spending time at Anne’s Place was something like going to summer camp for adults.
Day 3
We took the train into Rome, and walked through some familiar spots to become reacquainted with Rome and to walk off jetlag – St. Peters Square, Ponte Sant’ Angelo, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Barberini, Via Veneto and Villa Borghese. Near St. Peters, we had gelato at our favorite shop in Italy – Old Bridge (across the street from where people line up to get into the Vatican Museum). We visited the Museum of Modern Art, which actually covers the period from the 1800s to the present. The museum portrayed an interesting look at Italian art and cultural history during this timeframe. Back in Palestrina, we ate dinner at Lo Schiribizzo, a low-key family-run place.
Mar 21st, 2008, 09:25 AM
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Part II:
Day 4
I forgot to mention that on Day 3 we also walked through the Piazza del Popolo and Santa Maria del Popolo. This piazza is one of my favorites in Rome, partly because the center of the square is free of vehicles. Unlike St. Peters, the Piazza del Popolo is more on a human scale.
On Day 4 (Wednesday 3/15) we spent the day in Palestrina. (see www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palestrina). David dropped us off at the top of the hill (being the oldest part of the town). A little ways down the hill is an excellent archeological museum which includes the Mosaic of the Nile. This mosaic is a stylized map of the Nile valley as seen by Egyptian artists of the 1st century BCE). That night we had dinner at Amadeo’s. This was a fixed price full-course dinner (20 Euros per person – the most expensive and best meal of the trip).
Day 4
I forgot to mention that on Day 3 we also walked through the Piazza del Popolo and Santa Maria del Popolo. This piazza is one of my favorites in Rome, partly because the center of the square is free of vehicles. Unlike St. Peters, the Piazza del Popolo is more on a human scale.
On Day 4 (Wednesday 3/15) we spent the day in Palestrina. (see www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palestrina). David dropped us off at the top of the hill (being the oldest part of the town). A little ways down the hill is an excellent archeological museum which includes the Mosaic of the Nile. This mosaic is a stylized map of the Nile valley as seen by Egyptian artists of the 1st century BCE). That night we had dinner at Amadeo’s. This was a fixed price full-course dinner (20 Euros per person – the most expensive and best meal of the trip).
Mar 21st, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Yay, I found it!
Did you find that you especially did not mind staying in Palestrina because you had been to Rome once before? I say that because I really loved wandering the city at night. However, it does sound lovely to relax in the "country".
Did you find that you especially did not mind staying in Palestrina because you had been to Rome once before? I say that because I really loved wandering the city at night. However, it does sound lovely to relax in the "country".
Mar 21st, 2008, 01:42 PM
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To LCBoniti:
Yes, I think part of the reason we enjoyed staying in Palestrina was that we had already spend a vacation in Rome. In addition, staying outside of Rome may appeal to those who are not "city" people.
Yes, I think part of the reason we enjoyed staying in Palestrina was that we had already spend a vacation in Rome. In addition, staying outside of Rome may appeal to those who are not "city" people.
Mar 24th, 2008, 06:14 PM
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Part III-
Day 5
Tivoli was our destination for the fifth day of the trip. David transported us and another couple staying at the B&B for a 30 Euro charge per person. We visited the Villa d’Este and the Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa). The fountains of Villa d’Este are a marvel of hydraulic engineering. Hadrian’s Villa has Roman ruins that are better preserved than anything in Rome except for the Pantheon. We found that as the day went on, we were better able to imagine what Hadrian’s Villa must have looked like. Dinner in Palestrina was at Papa’s.
Day 6
On Friday 3/14 we spent another day in Rome. First, we walked from the Spanish Steps to Piazza Fontanella Borghese. Every day, antique print and book dealers set up shop in this piazza. We bought a Renaissance-era reproduction map of Rome (unframed) after some bargaining with the dealer. Next, we walked back to the Spanish Steps and visited the Keats-Shelley house. Keats died in this house after moving to Rome as part of a treatment plan to deal with his tuberculosis. After another stop at Old Bridge for gelato, an amazing thing happened. We were strolling through St. Peters square when I noticed a familiar face – it was our best friends’ daughter who was visiting Rome on a break from her semester in Florence. From St. Peters we walked up Janiculum (Giancolo) hill for a spectacular view of Rome. We continued down the other side of the hill to the Trastevere neighborhood. It was refreshing to be in this relatively car-free medieval district. We stopped at Santa Maria in Trastevere and enjoyed the mosaics. As we approached Viale di Trastevere, we decided to take the “H” bus back to Termini (to catch the train to Palestrina). After finding the nearest bus stop, a women patiently explained to us (in Italian) that the “H” bus did not stop there. A nearby newsstand worker overhead the conversation and told us that the next “H” bus stop was at the Tiber river. At the end of a long day, we appreciated these random acts of kindness. Dinner that night was at the Antica in Palestrina (under 30 euros for a light meal).
Day 5
Tivoli was our destination for the fifth day of the trip. David transported us and another couple staying at the B&B for a 30 Euro charge per person. We visited the Villa d’Este and the Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa). The fountains of Villa d’Este are a marvel of hydraulic engineering. Hadrian’s Villa has Roman ruins that are better preserved than anything in Rome except for the Pantheon. We found that as the day went on, we were better able to imagine what Hadrian’s Villa must have looked like. Dinner in Palestrina was at Papa’s.
Day 6
On Friday 3/14 we spent another day in Rome. First, we walked from the Spanish Steps to Piazza Fontanella Borghese. Every day, antique print and book dealers set up shop in this piazza. We bought a Renaissance-era reproduction map of Rome (unframed) after some bargaining with the dealer. Next, we walked back to the Spanish Steps and visited the Keats-Shelley house. Keats died in this house after moving to Rome as part of a treatment plan to deal with his tuberculosis. After another stop at Old Bridge for gelato, an amazing thing happened. We were strolling through St. Peters square when I noticed a familiar face – it was our best friends’ daughter who was visiting Rome on a break from her semester in Florence. From St. Peters we walked up Janiculum (Giancolo) hill for a spectacular view of Rome. We continued down the other side of the hill to the Trastevere neighborhood. It was refreshing to be in this relatively car-free medieval district. We stopped at Santa Maria in Trastevere and enjoyed the mosaics. As we approached Viale di Trastevere, we decided to take the “H” bus back to Termini (to catch the train to Palestrina). After finding the nearest bus stop, a women patiently explained to us (in Italian) that the “H” bus did not stop there. A nearby newsstand worker overhead the conversation and told us that the next “H” bus stop was at the Tiber river. At the end of a long day, we appreciated these random acts of kindness. Dinner that night was at the Antica in Palestrina (under 30 euros for a light meal).
Mar 25th, 2008, 03:43 AM
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Part IV
Day 7
On Saturday 3/15 we traveled from Palestrina to Sorrento via Rome and Naples. Cost-saving tip: took the IC Plus train from Rome to Naples instead of the Eurostar or AV trains. Savings = 12 euros per person each way. The IC plus train took two hours from Rome to Naples compared to 1.5 hours for the fast train.
The Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento was, as others have described, comparable to a big-city subway/elevated train ride. The Naples train station was a bit tricky, in that men in blue jackets would come up to us and hassle us about where we were going. We have heard that these men are trying to scam travelers for money in return for assistance with luggage, etc. We tried to ignore them by not making eye contact. The Circumvesuviana trains leave from the Garibaldi station, which is downstairs from the main Napoli Centrale tracks. It was somewhat difficult to get our suitcases down the stairs to the Garibaldi station. In return for these hassles, the fare from Naples to Sorrento was a cheap 3,30 Euros.
We arrived in Sorrento in the middle of the afternoon. Our B&B (Il Roseto) was halfway between two Circumvesuviana train stations. On the way in, we got off at the main Sorrento station and walked to the B&B. After settling in, we walked around Sorrento, and then had dinner in the old part of town at the Ristorante Giardiniello. Sorrento has only one main street, so it is relatively easy to get oriented to the town.
Day 8
Today was perhaps the highlight of our trip – a visit to Pompeii. We were glad to be staying in Sorrento, so that we could get to Pompeii on a half-hour Circumvesuviana ride. Even so, we could have easily spent two days at Pompeii – perhaps one day without the guidebook to just let it all sink in, and another day with a guidebook.
Our innkeeper recommended a restaurant in Sant Agnello, which is the town just east of Sorrento. We had a nice meal at Ristorante Peppino, which reminded my wife of her Italian grandmother’s home cooking.
On the way to dinner, my wife tripped on the sidewalk and strained some muscles in her back. The sidewalks on Via Corso Italia are very narrow (and in some spots non-existent). This injury caused her discomfort, but she was able to walk without difficulties.
Day 9
This day was spent walking around Sorrento. Sorrento has a picturesque old section, highlighted by Via San Cesareo, a pedestrian-only shopping mecca. There is a lemon grove garden where you can get a free sample of limoncello (the local lemon liqueur). Sorrento sits on a bluff overlooking the sea – the best view is from Villa Communale. We walked down through an ancient Greek gate to Marina Grande, a fishing village. We ate again at Ristorante Peppino.
Sorrento was pretty, but it is definitely a resort town with shopping as the main activity. The tour buses were already arriving, and I shudder to think how crowded the town must be during peak tourist season. We found the people to be less friendly than in other parts of Italy we have visited. Our theory was that the locals hardly have any respite from the hoards of tourists, so they develop a callous attitude. On the other hand, it was only March, and the tourist season had barely started. When we arrived in town, we asked a couple of locals if we were headed in the right direction to reach Corso d’Italia (the main drag). The first two people refused to help us. The people working in the stores and restaurants seldom made eye contact, so it felt somewhat awkward to greet them with our usual “Buon giorno”.
Our B&B, the Il Roseto, was very nice, especially for the price of 65 euros a night. Michele and his family were polite and helpful. The rooms were clean and in good repair, although not overly large. The breakfast was close to the best that we have had anyplace in Italy.
Day 7
On Saturday 3/15 we traveled from Palestrina to Sorrento via Rome and Naples. Cost-saving tip: took the IC Plus train from Rome to Naples instead of the Eurostar or AV trains. Savings = 12 euros per person each way. The IC plus train took two hours from Rome to Naples compared to 1.5 hours for the fast train.
The Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento was, as others have described, comparable to a big-city subway/elevated train ride. The Naples train station was a bit tricky, in that men in blue jackets would come up to us and hassle us about where we were going. We have heard that these men are trying to scam travelers for money in return for assistance with luggage, etc. We tried to ignore them by not making eye contact. The Circumvesuviana trains leave from the Garibaldi station, which is downstairs from the main Napoli Centrale tracks. It was somewhat difficult to get our suitcases down the stairs to the Garibaldi station. In return for these hassles, the fare from Naples to Sorrento was a cheap 3,30 Euros.
We arrived in Sorrento in the middle of the afternoon. Our B&B (Il Roseto) was halfway between two Circumvesuviana train stations. On the way in, we got off at the main Sorrento station and walked to the B&B. After settling in, we walked around Sorrento, and then had dinner in the old part of town at the Ristorante Giardiniello. Sorrento has only one main street, so it is relatively easy to get oriented to the town.
Day 8
Today was perhaps the highlight of our trip – a visit to Pompeii. We were glad to be staying in Sorrento, so that we could get to Pompeii on a half-hour Circumvesuviana ride. Even so, we could have easily spent two days at Pompeii – perhaps one day without the guidebook to just let it all sink in, and another day with a guidebook.
Our innkeeper recommended a restaurant in Sant Agnello, which is the town just east of Sorrento. We had a nice meal at Ristorante Peppino, which reminded my wife of her Italian grandmother’s home cooking.
On the way to dinner, my wife tripped on the sidewalk and strained some muscles in her back. The sidewalks on Via Corso Italia are very narrow (and in some spots non-existent). This injury caused her discomfort, but she was able to walk without difficulties.
Day 9
This day was spent walking around Sorrento. Sorrento has a picturesque old section, highlighted by Via San Cesareo, a pedestrian-only shopping mecca. There is a lemon grove garden where you can get a free sample of limoncello (the local lemon liqueur). Sorrento sits on a bluff overlooking the sea – the best view is from Villa Communale. We walked down through an ancient Greek gate to Marina Grande, a fishing village. We ate again at Ristorante Peppino.
Sorrento was pretty, but it is definitely a resort town with shopping as the main activity. The tour buses were already arriving, and I shudder to think how crowded the town must be during peak tourist season. We found the people to be less friendly than in other parts of Italy we have visited. Our theory was that the locals hardly have any respite from the hoards of tourists, so they develop a callous attitude. On the other hand, it was only March, and the tourist season had barely started. When we arrived in town, we asked a couple of locals if we were headed in the right direction to reach Corso d’Italia (the main drag). The first two people refused to help us. The people working in the stores and restaurants seldom made eye contact, so it felt somewhat awkward to greet them with our usual “Buon giorno”.
Our B&B, the Il Roseto, was very nice, especially for the price of 65 euros a night. Michele and his family were polite and helpful. The rooms were clean and in good repair, although not overly large. The breakfast was close to the best that we have had anyplace in Italy.
Mar 25th, 2008, 07:05 AM
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Thank you for continuing your trip report. I'm sorry your wife hurt her back. Hopefully it did not prevent her from enjoying the rest of the trip.
I really loved Pompeii. Had you been before? We had a guide who did a wonderful job of making the city live, helping us appreciate the people who lived and died there. Very moving.
I really loved Pompeii. Had you been before? We had a guide who did a wonderful job of making the city live, helping us appreciate the people who lived and died there. Very moving.
Mar 25th, 2008, 12:13 PM
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I was intrigued that you stayed at Il Roseto. We're there early May--albeit at a much higher rate. We're looking forward to our stay here. We're definitely interested in a trip on the Amalfi coast. Don't know whether the ferry is a reasonable alternative, but if it is, sounds like a good option vs the bus. Did you find that the bus was ever too crowded to catch, or did you walk back and forth to town by preference? BTW, do you remember what you paid for dinner at the two restaurants mentioned?
Mar 25th, 2008, 05:43 PM
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Day 10 and conclusion
We walked to the Sant Agnello train station (about 400 meters) and took the Circumvesuviana back to Naples, and the IC Plus train back to Rome. The taxi seemed like a good option for getting from Termini to the Hotel Golden. Unfortunately, we were asleep at the switch, and paid 17 euros for the ride instead of the more appropriate amount of around 12 euros. Marco at the Hotel Golden commiserated with our problem, and told us that we had apparently been charged the rate for after 10 PM. The Hotel Golden is a two star hotel in a five star neighborhood, located on Via Marche near the Porta Pinciana entrance gate to the Villa Borghese. We had the “small” double for 100 euros, and it was reminiscent of a Manhattan hotel room. The mattress was quite hard, which was not good for my wife with her sore back. The Hotel Golden starts serving breakfast at 7:30 AM, which barely allowed us time to catch something to eat (we had a 10:20 return flight leaving from FCO).
After settling in, we decided to walk around Rome one more time, since we don’t know when we will return. The city pulsed with energy, as it was possible to follow the Holy Week crowds from one point of interest to another. A stop at St. Peters revealed thousands of chairs set up in the basilica, blocking the inside view of the great dome. Asian street vendors along the Via della Conciliazione hawked textile goods to passersby. A film crew had set up some 60s – era cars along the Tiber. A whiff of roasting chestnuts wafted up from a street corner. The rhythmic tone of an ambulance pierced the air. Piazza Navona teemed with life, as the warm evening brought out people for the evening passeggiata. The Pantheon stood still and solemn, and Trevi Fountain lit up for the evening just as we approached.
Trip Conclusion and Summary
The weather was excellent. It only rained for one day (on our arrival day in Rome). The daytime temperature was in the 60-70 degree range, with one day around 50. Nighttime temperatures were in the 40s.
This trip cost about 10% less than our trip to Italy in February 2004, even though the exchange rate was about 18% less favorable this time. We spent much less on lodging, due to the fact that we stayed in B&Bs except for the last night. Food was cheaper since we ate a number of meals in smaller towns instead of Rome.
We had a routine flight home on March 19th, connecting to the airport in a car arranged by the Hotel Golden (40 euros). This was our third trip to Italy in the last four years, so we will probably branch out and see other places. We hope to return to Italy someday…
We walked to the Sant Agnello train station (about 400 meters) and took the Circumvesuviana back to Naples, and the IC Plus train back to Rome. The taxi seemed like a good option for getting from Termini to the Hotel Golden. Unfortunately, we were asleep at the switch, and paid 17 euros for the ride instead of the more appropriate amount of around 12 euros. Marco at the Hotel Golden commiserated with our problem, and told us that we had apparently been charged the rate for after 10 PM. The Hotel Golden is a two star hotel in a five star neighborhood, located on Via Marche near the Porta Pinciana entrance gate to the Villa Borghese. We had the “small” double for 100 euros, and it was reminiscent of a Manhattan hotel room. The mattress was quite hard, which was not good for my wife with her sore back. The Hotel Golden starts serving breakfast at 7:30 AM, which barely allowed us time to catch something to eat (we had a 10:20 return flight leaving from FCO).
After settling in, we decided to walk around Rome one more time, since we don’t know when we will return. The city pulsed with energy, as it was possible to follow the Holy Week crowds from one point of interest to another. A stop at St. Peters revealed thousands of chairs set up in the basilica, blocking the inside view of the great dome. Asian street vendors along the Via della Conciliazione hawked textile goods to passersby. A film crew had set up some 60s – era cars along the Tiber. A whiff of roasting chestnuts wafted up from a street corner. The rhythmic tone of an ambulance pierced the air. Piazza Navona teemed with life, as the warm evening brought out people for the evening passeggiata. The Pantheon stood still and solemn, and Trevi Fountain lit up for the evening just as we approached.
Trip Conclusion and Summary
The weather was excellent. It only rained for one day (on our arrival day in Rome). The daytime temperature was in the 60-70 degree range, with one day around 50. Nighttime temperatures were in the 40s.
This trip cost about 10% less than our trip to Italy in February 2004, even though the exchange rate was about 18% less favorable this time. We spent much less on lodging, due to the fact that we stayed in B&Bs except for the last night. Food was cheaper since we ate a number of meals in smaller towns instead of Rome.
We had a routine flight home on March 19th, connecting to the airport in a car arranged by the Hotel Golden (40 euros). This was our third trip to Italy in the last four years, so we will probably branch out and see other places. We hope to return to Italy someday…
