Itallian Chauffeur's [sic] April 2006 Ireland Trip -- The 'RENEWAL' Tour
Apr 11th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Itallian Chauffeur's [sic] April 2006 Ireland Trip -- The 'RENEWAL' Tour
Just Back. Tales to tell. Adventures to recount. Complaints to make. But, all that will have to wait.
For now, though --- PICTURES !!!!!
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/remprimo/album?.dir=/cc05
More to follow.
Bob
For now, though --- PICTURES !!!!!
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/remprimo/album?.dir=/cc05
More to follow.
Bob
Apr 11th, 2006, 09:55 PM
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Hi! Looking forward to your trip report.. Enjoyed the pics.. I'm glad to see I'm not the only person who took lots of pictures of cows! My son thought I was looney.
Also, I don't know if I ever thankd you for all the help you provided for our trip last summer.. really, it made our planning so much easier and fun. so.. thank you!
Also, I don't know if I ever thankd you for all the help you provided for our trip last summer.. really, it made our planning so much easier and fun. so.. thank you!
Apr 12th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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With Apologies to John Spillane and Ger Wolfe ....
So, I took this trip to Ireland. Arrived in Shannon on Friday, 31 March and left on 9 April, from same. I took massive amounts of photographs and had many adventures in the South and West. I returned home, tired, jet-lagged and generally worn out. I had no interest in sitting down at the computer to create a viable photo album of the trip. Neither, did I feel motivated to write my traditional EPIC trip report. But the Missus says to me, "Bob, you must write it all down, and do the work. If you don't, who will?" True enough, that (as she so often is). Therefore, I was subdued and set about the task.
First, I edited down the pictures to a manageable 100 or so, to shield the innocent and protect, the guilty. No ACTUAL animals were hurt, or mistreated, during the process. Then, I lashed captions onto nearly each, and every one of the chosen group. Then (for I am a metikulus - meticelouse --- CAREFUL --- researcher), I wrote out the following, all in my own words and such, in order to entertain, enlighten and educate, like.
Fair play, to me, and Good Enough.
Basic Outline:
Friday: Arrived Shannon at 9:30 AM, retrieved rental car and drove to Watergrasshill, Co. Cork and checked into Ashgrove B&B. Dinner with family.
Saturday: Drove to Kilcrohane, Sheeps Head, via the N71. Checked into The Apartment (a rebuilt, stone cottage) at Pinewood Cottages, for a one week, Saturday to Saturday, self-catering rental. Dinner in Bantry at The Snug.
Sunday: Toured Sheeps Head, in AM, then drove to Drimoleague to visit family. Dinner with the family.
Monday: Toured Mizen Head, with lunch at O'Sullivan's, in Crookhaven. Dinner at "home".
Tuesday: Visited Heritage Center, in Skibbereen, then drove to Drimoleague for lunch with relatives and then ascended past Castle Donovon to Coomleigh, for afternoon tea with the Laird O' the Mountain, Cousin Sean, himself. Dinner in Bantry at O'Callaghan's.
Weds. drove back to Skibbereen to catch the records clerk at the Hospital. Retrieved copies of my wife's Grandmother's birth certificates. Lunch at the Church Restraunt. Drove to Glenngarriff for MAJOR gift shopping. Dinner at O'Callaghan's.
Thursday: Drove to Clonakilty, via Skibbereen, Castle Townsend, Union Hall and Glandore. Visited Drombeg Stone Cirle enroute. Stayed at Quality Hotel, on the bypass. Dinner in town (the name escapes me), then to DeBarra's for John Spillane's once-monthly performance.
Friday: Drove to Killarney, via N71 to Skibbereen, then to Drimoleague and into Bantry. Picked up the N71 again and drove on through Glenngarriff, and Kenmare, to the Windy Gap. Turned off toward Sneem, there, for lunch at the Pancake Cottage and then returned to the N71 to continue into Killarney. Had the Tourist Board book me into the Harp B&B, on Muckross Road, for Friday night, and the Shannon View B&B in Newmarket-On-Fergus, for Saturday night. Spent a few hours shopping, then met Ciaran Wynne for dinner at O'Connor's, on High Street, before retiring to O"Riain's for drinks with his sister and brother-in-law whilst being thoroughly entertained by Ciaran's musical performance.
Saturday AM, drove to Millstreet, via Rathmore. Lunch at Nibbles Cafe and Bakery. Headed off through the hinterlands and hidden roads to Killarney, where we turned off to Shannon, via the N21, through Adare and Limmerick. Dinner at Kathleen's, in Bunratty.
Great, INTERESTING trip. Blow-by-blow details to follow, but that's the basic truth of it, as far as it goes, so Fair Play to me.
And Good Enough.
Bob
So, I took this trip to Ireland. Arrived in Shannon on Friday, 31 March and left on 9 April, from same. I took massive amounts of photographs and had many adventures in the South and West. I returned home, tired, jet-lagged and generally worn out. I had no interest in sitting down at the computer to create a viable photo album of the trip. Neither, did I feel motivated to write my traditional EPIC trip report. But the Missus says to me, "Bob, you must write it all down, and do the work. If you don't, who will?" True enough, that (as she so often is). Therefore, I was subdued and set about the task.
First, I edited down the pictures to a manageable 100 or so, to shield the innocent and protect, the guilty. No ACTUAL animals were hurt, or mistreated, during the process. Then, I lashed captions onto nearly each, and every one of the chosen group. Then (for I am a metikulus - meticelouse --- CAREFUL --- researcher), I wrote out the following, all in my own words and such, in order to entertain, enlighten and educate, like.
Fair play, to me, and Good Enough.
Basic Outline:
Friday: Arrived Shannon at 9:30 AM, retrieved rental car and drove to Watergrasshill, Co. Cork and checked into Ashgrove B&B. Dinner with family.
Saturday: Drove to Kilcrohane, Sheeps Head, via the N71. Checked into The Apartment (a rebuilt, stone cottage) at Pinewood Cottages, for a one week, Saturday to Saturday, self-catering rental. Dinner in Bantry at The Snug.
Sunday: Toured Sheeps Head, in AM, then drove to Drimoleague to visit family. Dinner with the family.
Monday: Toured Mizen Head, with lunch at O'Sullivan's, in Crookhaven. Dinner at "home".
Tuesday: Visited Heritage Center, in Skibbereen, then drove to Drimoleague for lunch with relatives and then ascended past Castle Donovon to Coomleigh, for afternoon tea with the Laird O' the Mountain, Cousin Sean, himself. Dinner in Bantry at O'Callaghan's.
Weds. drove back to Skibbereen to catch the records clerk at the Hospital. Retrieved copies of my wife's Grandmother's birth certificates. Lunch at the Church Restraunt. Drove to Glenngarriff for MAJOR gift shopping. Dinner at O'Callaghan's.
Thursday: Drove to Clonakilty, via Skibbereen, Castle Townsend, Union Hall and Glandore. Visited Drombeg Stone Cirle enroute. Stayed at Quality Hotel, on the bypass. Dinner in town (the name escapes me), then to DeBarra's for John Spillane's once-monthly performance.
Friday: Drove to Killarney, via N71 to Skibbereen, then to Drimoleague and into Bantry. Picked up the N71 again and drove on through Glenngarriff, and Kenmare, to the Windy Gap. Turned off toward Sneem, there, for lunch at the Pancake Cottage and then returned to the N71 to continue into Killarney. Had the Tourist Board book me into the Harp B&B, on Muckross Road, for Friday night, and the Shannon View B&B in Newmarket-On-Fergus, for Saturday night. Spent a few hours shopping, then met Ciaran Wynne for dinner at O'Connor's, on High Street, before retiring to O"Riain's for drinks with his sister and brother-in-law whilst being thoroughly entertained by Ciaran's musical performance.
Saturday AM, drove to Millstreet, via Rathmore. Lunch at Nibbles Cafe and Bakery. Headed off through the hinterlands and hidden roads to Killarney, where we turned off to Shannon, via the N21, through Adare and Limmerick. Dinner at Kathleen's, in Bunratty.
Great, INTERESTING trip. Blow-by-blow details to follow, but that's the basic truth of it, as far as it goes, so Fair Play to me.
And Good Enough.
Bob
Apr 14th, 2006, 07:13 AM
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Callalilli, we took no pictures of cows. But lots of pictures of sheep! I think it may have to do with the fact that my husband and I grew up in a small, rural town surrounded by dairy farms. So my kids grew up seeing lots of cows whenever they visited their grandparents. But sheep, especially sheep running loose with huge splotches of neon color, now that was a novelty!
Apr 14th, 2006, 01:56 PM
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Bob, welcome back! Thanks for sharing the great pics. We leave in a week and I am so encouraged by all the sun you had. Looks like a wonderful trip. Will look forward to the tales, adventures and complaints when you are up to it.
Apr 16th, 2006, 04:22 PM
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Just a reminder of the hows, whys and wherefors, of the PLAN for our trip:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34750769
This should let you cross-compare with what ACTUALLY transpired.
I'm working on the details, as we speak. More to follow...
Bob
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34750769
This should let you cross-compare with what ACTUALLY transpired.
I'm working on the details, as we speak. More to follow...
Bob
Apr 16th, 2006, 06:13 PM
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DAY ONE: FRIDAY, 31 MARCH
We departed from Sarasota Airport with only one minor hassle - I left a butane lighter in the pocket of my coat and when the X-ray scan turned it up, they confiscated it. The flight was full, but uneventful. The scheduled layover in Newark was short (just under three hours), allowing time for a decent dinner. We boarded just before 8:00 PM for our scheduled 8:35 departure, but about 8:20 it was announced that the flight was "over sold" and they were requesting "One passenger, who has NOT checked any luggage" to volunteer to accept a bump, with all the usual incentives -- $500 voucher, plus meal and hotel accommodation for the night AND a first class seat on the next evening's flight. Dunno if anyone qualified, or if there even WERE any volunteers, but we never left the ground until 9:30. Didn't 'make up' any time in the air, either, so we didn't land in Shannon until 9:35 / 9:40 AM (Local Time). A moderate rain was falling.
Because we were an hour late in landing, there were additional planes off loading, so customs and baggage claims were backed up. Once in the lobby, the lines at the rental car counters (specifically Europcar and Dan Dooley) were 2-3 wide and 15-20 deep. I popped into the nearby TOP Shop and purchased a 10 Euro "Top-Up" card for my cell phone. After picking up my keys and carting the luggage out to the car, we noticed a missing cover on the side view mirror, so I had to trek back into the terminal and have the damage annotated on the contract. By the time we pulled out onto the road, it was 11:30.
First stop was Bunratty, for breakfast in the upstairs of the Blarney Woolen Mills Shops, across from the castle. By now, the rain was nearly over, although there would be intermittent, light bursts, throughout the rest of the day.
Departing Bunratty, we drove south to Mallow, where were turned east on the N72. Ended up heading in the wrong direction, at first, because oddly enough, after driving through the center of town, you have to turn NORTH (a left), in order to head SOUTH, toward Waterford. Once we got turned back around, we drove to Fermoy, turned onto the N8 going south and arrived at our B&B in Watergrasshill about 2 PM. We have stayed at the Ashgrove House in Watergrasshill any number of times. It is neither fancy, nor pretentious, but Mrs. Cronin ALWAYS makes us feel so welcome, that my wife likens arriving there to going to spend the night at her grandmother's, when she was little -- the familiar, comfortable bed and the warm, genuine greeting, as if we are family, come home to visit.
After a two hour nap and a refreshing shower and change of clothes, we were off to Cousin Sean's. An hour or so later, we were at her daughter's for a family get-together and a dinner spread that couldn't be beat. Back to the B&B about eleven.
DAY TWO: SATURDAY, 1 APRIL
Morning found us refreshed, invigorated and happy to be in Ireland. We thoroughly enjoyed Mrs. Cronin's ample Irish breakfast, paid for our room (50 Euro -- because we're like family), then headed back to Sean's for a bit more visiting. Then, about 1 PM, we headed off under cloudy skies for West Cork and our self-catering rental on the Sheeps Head. We took the N8 South to the Tunnel and then kept working our way West around Cork, until we picked up the N71 heading through Bandon and into Clonakilty. Although Town Center has been bypassed, we drove into town and located DeBarras, where we had an excellent lunch and inquired about details concerning the scheduled John Spillane appearance, the following Thursday. He is a regular at DeBarras, playing there the first Thursday of every month.
As we attempted to exit the pub, we were trapped in the doorway by a sudden deluge for about 10 minutes or so, but we could see the line of blue sky, rapidly approaching from the West. As soon as the rain stopped, we walked to our car and drove off, into the sunshine. It was the LAST rainfall we would experience, for the next five days.
We continued on the N71, through Ross Carbery, Leap, Skibbereen and into Ballydehob, were we turned off on an unnumbered road, to Durrus. Once in Durrus, we followed the Sheeps Head Drive signs, through Ahakista, into Kilcrohane. From just outside of Durrus, the road hugs the coastline of Dunmanus Bay.
It was on THIS road, just outside of Ahakista, where we came across the road-full of cows, sans human accompaniment. They were apparently just out for a wee stroll, to stretch their legs. A tradesman, approaching from the opposite direction stopped his van, as well. When the cows should no interest in sharing the road, he finally beeped his horn and then waved his arm out the window. Reluctantly, they moved aside enough to let the tradesman past. Taking advantage of the opening (you can probably see from my photos that they didn't give up MUCH space), I gingerly drove by, as well.
Upon our arrival in Kilcrohane, we telephoned our landlords, John and Janet Tobin, quite proud that we had found our way, all by ourselves. As it turns out, they actually LIVE in Durrus, so we had to wait in Kilcrohane village about 15 or 20 minutes, for them to arrive and take us to the cottage. Small sacrifice -- Kilcrohane Village consists of one large Catholic Church, two pubs and one shop, cum post office, cum petrol station. There IS actually a second shop -a hardware/grocery store, but it is only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Prior to Easter, the pace there is slow -- the pubs don't regularly serve food in the evening and the sole resteraunt operates on a 'pre-book only' basis. That's not to say that the village is dead. There is new home construction, remodeling, etc. going on throughout the Village AND, the rest of the Sheeps Head, as well. We found it a beautiful and charming place, though all that blue sky and sunshine made it easy.
When John arrived, we followed him back to the 'Apartment'. It is located on the Ahakista side of Kilcrohane, less than 1/2 mile from the village center. Taking a left, we turned uphill on a narrow, paved road that, after a few narrow turns, quickly turned into a bohreen. After I pulled into the driveway, I politely suggested to Mr and Mrs Tobin that their web-site ( http://www.pinewoodcottage.com ) had pictures of the outside of the apartment, the outside of the Cottage and a few, of the inside of the cottage, but that he really needed to add at least one more -- of the view! All I can say is, "WOW!" Dunmanus Bay spreads out, at your feet, for as far as you can see, with the north coast of Mizen Head opposite. The web site DOES mention 'views of the bay', but ...
After being familiarized with the mechanical workings of the appliances etc. and paying the balance of the rental fee, we headed out, for supper in Bantry. We drove back into Kilcrohane and turned right, just past the Church, driving uphill passing the second pub, onto the Goat's Path. The Goat's Path is a winding, narrow road over the mountain (Seefin), where it meets the shore of Bantry Bay and follows along the shoreline, into Bantry. At the top, are TWO rest stops, complete with one picnic table, each. One is on the South, facing Dunmanus Bay; the other, on the North, overlooking Bantry Bay, with Beara Peninsula's silouette on the opposite shore. Just over the crest, on the Beara side is a replica Pieta. On the ridge midway between the two, is a concrete and stone slab/bench -- said to be the spot where Culculain rested, soaking his feet in the bay.
Bantry is only 20 miles away from Kilcrohane, using this route. Locals swear it is no more than a 20 minute drive. Call it 35 and you won't be too far off the mark. We had dinner at The Snug, a nice, small and busy pub/eatery on the north end of the square, decorated with tree trunks "supporting" tables and roof. Good food, reasonably priced. We drove back over the Goat's Path with darkness falling, stopping into the shop in Kilcrohane for juice, cereal, milk, tea, bread and jam to stock our little kitchen. I built up a peat fire in our little Waterford stove and we settled in for the night.
More to follow ...
Bob
We departed from Sarasota Airport with only one minor hassle - I left a butane lighter in the pocket of my coat and when the X-ray scan turned it up, they confiscated it. The flight was full, but uneventful. The scheduled layover in Newark was short (just under three hours), allowing time for a decent dinner. We boarded just before 8:00 PM for our scheduled 8:35 departure, but about 8:20 it was announced that the flight was "over sold" and they were requesting "One passenger, who has NOT checked any luggage" to volunteer to accept a bump, with all the usual incentives -- $500 voucher, plus meal and hotel accommodation for the night AND a first class seat on the next evening's flight. Dunno if anyone qualified, or if there even WERE any volunteers, but we never left the ground until 9:30. Didn't 'make up' any time in the air, either, so we didn't land in Shannon until 9:35 / 9:40 AM (Local Time). A moderate rain was falling.
Because we were an hour late in landing, there were additional planes off loading, so customs and baggage claims were backed up. Once in the lobby, the lines at the rental car counters (specifically Europcar and Dan Dooley) were 2-3 wide and 15-20 deep. I popped into the nearby TOP Shop and purchased a 10 Euro "Top-Up" card for my cell phone. After picking up my keys and carting the luggage out to the car, we noticed a missing cover on the side view mirror, so I had to trek back into the terminal and have the damage annotated on the contract. By the time we pulled out onto the road, it was 11:30.
First stop was Bunratty, for breakfast in the upstairs of the Blarney Woolen Mills Shops, across from the castle. By now, the rain was nearly over, although there would be intermittent, light bursts, throughout the rest of the day.
Departing Bunratty, we drove south to Mallow, where were turned east on the N72. Ended up heading in the wrong direction, at first, because oddly enough, after driving through the center of town, you have to turn NORTH (a left), in order to head SOUTH, toward Waterford. Once we got turned back around, we drove to Fermoy, turned onto the N8 going south and arrived at our B&B in Watergrasshill about 2 PM. We have stayed at the Ashgrove House in Watergrasshill any number of times. It is neither fancy, nor pretentious, but Mrs. Cronin ALWAYS makes us feel so welcome, that my wife likens arriving there to going to spend the night at her grandmother's, when she was little -- the familiar, comfortable bed and the warm, genuine greeting, as if we are family, come home to visit.
After a two hour nap and a refreshing shower and change of clothes, we were off to Cousin Sean's. An hour or so later, we were at her daughter's for a family get-together and a dinner spread that couldn't be beat. Back to the B&B about eleven.
DAY TWO: SATURDAY, 1 APRIL
Morning found us refreshed, invigorated and happy to be in Ireland. We thoroughly enjoyed Mrs. Cronin's ample Irish breakfast, paid for our room (50 Euro -- because we're like family), then headed back to Sean's for a bit more visiting. Then, about 1 PM, we headed off under cloudy skies for West Cork and our self-catering rental on the Sheeps Head. We took the N8 South to the Tunnel and then kept working our way West around Cork, until we picked up the N71 heading through Bandon and into Clonakilty. Although Town Center has been bypassed, we drove into town and located DeBarras, where we had an excellent lunch and inquired about details concerning the scheduled John Spillane appearance, the following Thursday. He is a regular at DeBarras, playing there the first Thursday of every month.
As we attempted to exit the pub, we were trapped in the doorway by a sudden deluge for about 10 minutes or so, but we could see the line of blue sky, rapidly approaching from the West. As soon as the rain stopped, we walked to our car and drove off, into the sunshine. It was the LAST rainfall we would experience, for the next five days.
We continued on the N71, through Ross Carbery, Leap, Skibbereen and into Ballydehob, were we turned off on an unnumbered road, to Durrus. Once in Durrus, we followed the Sheeps Head Drive signs, through Ahakista, into Kilcrohane. From just outside of Durrus, the road hugs the coastline of Dunmanus Bay.
It was on THIS road, just outside of Ahakista, where we came across the road-full of cows, sans human accompaniment. They were apparently just out for a wee stroll, to stretch their legs. A tradesman, approaching from the opposite direction stopped his van, as well. When the cows should no interest in sharing the road, he finally beeped his horn and then waved his arm out the window. Reluctantly, they moved aside enough to let the tradesman past. Taking advantage of the opening (you can probably see from my photos that they didn't give up MUCH space), I gingerly drove by, as well.
Upon our arrival in Kilcrohane, we telephoned our landlords, John and Janet Tobin, quite proud that we had found our way, all by ourselves. As it turns out, they actually LIVE in Durrus, so we had to wait in Kilcrohane village about 15 or 20 minutes, for them to arrive and take us to the cottage. Small sacrifice -- Kilcrohane Village consists of one large Catholic Church, two pubs and one shop, cum post office, cum petrol station. There IS actually a second shop -a hardware/grocery store, but it is only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Prior to Easter, the pace there is slow -- the pubs don't regularly serve food in the evening and the sole resteraunt operates on a 'pre-book only' basis. That's not to say that the village is dead. There is new home construction, remodeling, etc. going on throughout the Village AND, the rest of the Sheeps Head, as well. We found it a beautiful and charming place, though all that blue sky and sunshine made it easy.
When John arrived, we followed him back to the 'Apartment'. It is located on the Ahakista side of Kilcrohane, less than 1/2 mile from the village center. Taking a left, we turned uphill on a narrow, paved road that, after a few narrow turns, quickly turned into a bohreen. After I pulled into the driveway, I politely suggested to Mr and Mrs Tobin that their web-site ( http://www.pinewoodcottage.com ) had pictures of the outside of the apartment, the outside of the Cottage and a few, of the inside of the cottage, but that he really needed to add at least one more -- of the view! All I can say is, "WOW!" Dunmanus Bay spreads out, at your feet, for as far as you can see, with the north coast of Mizen Head opposite. The web site DOES mention 'views of the bay', but ...
After being familiarized with the mechanical workings of the appliances etc. and paying the balance of the rental fee, we headed out, for supper in Bantry. We drove back into Kilcrohane and turned right, just past the Church, driving uphill passing the second pub, onto the Goat's Path. The Goat's Path is a winding, narrow road over the mountain (Seefin), where it meets the shore of Bantry Bay and follows along the shoreline, into Bantry. At the top, are TWO rest stops, complete with one picnic table, each. One is on the South, facing Dunmanus Bay; the other, on the North, overlooking Bantry Bay, with Beara Peninsula's silouette on the opposite shore. Just over the crest, on the Beara side is a replica Pieta. On the ridge midway between the two, is a concrete and stone slab/bench -- said to be the spot where Culculain rested, soaking his feet in the bay.
Bantry is only 20 miles away from Kilcrohane, using this route. Locals swear it is no more than a 20 minute drive. Call it 35 and you won't be too far off the mark. We had dinner at The Snug, a nice, small and busy pub/eatery on the north end of the square, decorated with tree trunks "supporting" tables and roof. Good food, reasonably priced. We drove back over the Goat's Path with darkness falling, stopping into the shop in Kilcrohane for juice, cereal, milk, tea, bread and jam to stock our little kitchen. I built up a peat fire in our little Waterford stove and we settled in for the night.
More to follow ...
Bob
Apr 18th, 2006, 06:57 PM
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Dunno about that picture. MAYBE it was there all along and the rainbow distracted me. I only know that what's on the web-site doesn't do the actual view any justice ...
Anyway, More:
DAY THREE SUNDAY, 2 APRIL:
We got off to a late start, didn't 'hit the road until almost 10 AM. Dunno if it was the overcast sky, or the relaxed, idyllic setting, working its magic on us, but it seemed to end up being the norm for all our time on the Sheep's Head. My wife wanted to attend Mass in the village, scheduled for 11, so we drove out to the Visitor's Center out at the tip. The Center was closed, of course, given the time of year AND day, but the view was well worth the drive and I DID manage to make it back to Kilcrohane by 11:05. Since I am a pagan, Itallian Methodist, I opted to sit in the car and read UNDER THE SHADOW OF SUIFINN a local history written by Ann McCarthy that I picked up in the village shop. It is an obsession, with me -- wherever we go. I always end up buying a half dozen or so, every trip. This one has a nifty, fold-out, color map in the front, and the procedes go to the Kilcrohane Developement Association. It was 12 Euro 70 well spent, in my opinion and, actually, quite informative. My wife joined the exodus from the Church about 35 minutes later -- you've got to love the Irish efficiency when it comes to Mass (particularly if you aren't a Catholic).
With Mass over, the shop reopened and we went in to make a few purchases.I showed my wife an interesting looking tee with the Sheep's Head Logo, but there was only the one and it was a XXL. The shopkeeper said that the lady who did the shirts also ran the Visitor's Center, but it was only open on Sunday afternoons, this time of year. Since we had committed to meeting the cousins in Drimoleague, I expressed the opinion that we were out of luck, but the shopkeeper said that she would ring up the lady and have her drop a few more by the shop.
We drove in to Drimoleague, via Ahakista, Durrus and Skibbereen, then took a slight "detour" through Caheragh on some interesting, small, local roads. Well, OK, I took a wrong turn and we got lost A BIT -- Still, we DID end up in Drimoleague, more or less on time. Of course, it IS fortunate, that time is a rather FLUID thing, in Ireland!
Cousin Sean's daughter and her husband have just bought a newer, three bedroom, semi-detatched (townhouse type) house in Drimoleague, to use as a weekend/summer get away place. She admitted to us that her parents will probably use it a lot more than she will, but that really was the point, I guess. We had a great visit and a really sumptuous meal and then, after promising to meet Sean and his wife again on Tuesday, for lunch (They were planning on staying on, at the house in Drimoleague), we set out about 5:30 or so, for Bantry and then Kilcrohane.
More to come
Bob
Anyway, More:
DAY THREE SUNDAY, 2 APRIL:
We got off to a late start, didn't 'hit the road until almost 10 AM. Dunno if it was the overcast sky, or the relaxed, idyllic setting, working its magic on us, but it seemed to end up being the norm for all our time on the Sheep's Head. My wife wanted to attend Mass in the village, scheduled for 11, so we drove out to the Visitor's Center out at the tip. The Center was closed, of course, given the time of year AND day, but the view was well worth the drive and I DID manage to make it back to Kilcrohane by 11:05. Since I am a pagan, Itallian Methodist, I opted to sit in the car and read UNDER THE SHADOW OF SUIFINN a local history written by Ann McCarthy that I picked up in the village shop. It is an obsession, with me -- wherever we go. I always end up buying a half dozen or so, every trip. This one has a nifty, fold-out, color map in the front, and the procedes go to the Kilcrohane Developement Association. It was 12 Euro 70 well spent, in my opinion and, actually, quite informative. My wife joined the exodus from the Church about 35 minutes later -- you've got to love the Irish efficiency when it comes to Mass (particularly if you aren't a Catholic).
With Mass over, the shop reopened and we went in to make a few purchases.I showed my wife an interesting looking tee with the Sheep's Head Logo, but there was only the one and it was a XXL. The shopkeeper said that the lady who did the shirts also ran the Visitor's Center, but it was only open on Sunday afternoons, this time of year. Since we had committed to meeting the cousins in Drimoleague, I expressed the opinion that we were out of luck, but the shopkeeper said that she would ring up the lady and have her drop a few more by the shop.
We drove in to Drimoleague, via Ahakista, Durrus and Skibbereen, then took a slight "detour" through Caheragh on some interesting, small, local roads. Well, OK, I took a wrong turn and we got lost A BIT -- Still, we DID end up in Drimoleague, more or less on time. Of course, it IS fortunate, that time is a rather FLUID thing, in Ireland!
Cousin Sean's daughter and her husband have just bought a newer, three bedroom, semi-detatched (townhouse type) house in Drimoleague, to use as a weekend/summer get away place. She admitted to us that her parents will probably use it a lot more than she will, but that really was the point, I guess. We had a great visit and a really sumptuous meal and then, after promising to meet Sean and his wife again on Tuesday, for lunch (They were planning on staying on, at the house in Drimoleague), we set out about 5:30 or so, for Bantry and then Kilcrohane.
More to come
Bob
Apr 19th, 2006, 01:01 PM
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Bob, I'm enjoying your trip report. We leave on Sunday and I'm wondering if you have anything to add on the Ring of Beara - ie. how long to drive, best route. We're in England for a week and then arriving Shannon on the 30th. Your descriptions of things sure make me want to go NOW! Great pics too.
Apr 19th, 2006, 06:17 PM
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Didn't make Beara, this trip. Back in 2003, we drove down the south coast from Glenngarriff to Castletown Bearhaven, across to Eyeries, then up the northern coast, to enter the Healy Pass, in order to drive it North to South. After that, we returned to Glenngarriff, before heading off to the north Cork area.
If I remember correctly, you are coming from Kenmare and heading toward Kinsale/Cork City, right. You could take the R571 just south of Kenmare and take it to Lauragh, drive the Healy N to S and then head to Castletown Bearhaven, etc.
Now, the Caha Pass between Kenmare and Glenngarriff on the N71 is memorable, but there is a lot of construction there (AND at Moll's Gap), so missing it in exchange for touring the Beara is probably worth it.
Wish I could be more helpful, but we had to drop our intended Beara trip, as a result of some mid-trip 'tweaking' to the planned itinerary.
Bob
If I remember correctly, you are coming from Kenmare and heading toward Kinsale/Cork City, right. You could take the R571 just south of Kenmare and take it to Lauragh, drive the Healy N to S and then head to Castletown Bearhaven, etc.
Now, the Caha Pass between Kenmare and Glenngarriff on the N71 is memorable, but there is a lot of construction there (AND at Moll's Gap), so missing it in exchange for touring the Beara is probably worth it.
Wish I could be more helpful, but we had to drop our intended Beara trip, as a result of some mid-trip 'tweaking' to the planned itinerary.
Bob
Apr 19th, 2006, 07:33 PM
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DAY FOUR, MON. 3 APRIL
VISIONS OF MIZEN
Another glorious day, as by 9AM the sun chased away the gloom. Since the shop in Kilcrohane carries every conceivable variation of Coke product EXCEPT Diet Coke, I stopped into the market in Durrus. As Iwas beging to run a bit low on Euros, I inquired as to the location of the nearest ATM. As our destination was Mizen, I was advised that the nearest was in Goleen, or barring that, Skull. Durrus is not a LOT bigger than Kilcrohane, but it IS bigger, but I wasn't to the point of being desperate for cash, so we headed on the R591 along the north shore before crossing South, to Toormore. From there, we followed the South coast to Goleen (Not much bigger than Durrus). There, I replenished my Diet coke and inquired again.
"The ATM is at the Post Office," the young shop girl told me, without guile, as she handed me my change. Walking out to the car, I scanned up and down the street, looking for the green AN POST sign. Eventually, I spotted the small, rectangular banner, proudly jutting from the facade of the shop that I had just exited. Rentering the store, I now noticed the tidy little cubicle -- on the far wall directly opposite the shop's cashier. When I asked the young man behind the shelf about the ATM, he replied that it was only accessable by AIB customers, and that the nearest other that "would do any good" was located in Skull.
Continuing on, we ended up in a very quiet and subdued Crookhaven, at about 10 minutes before Noon. Since Budman and others had spoken highly of O'Sullivan's Bar. Unfortunately, when we tried the front door, though the sign said, 'OPEN', it was locked and no one was about. It seemed quite possible that, being the 'off season', they were, indeed, closed and had simply overlooked the sign, as we had passed two other places that had proudly displayed the fact that they were not open. But, as we walked back to our car, four twenty-somethings drove up, hopped out and strode perposely around to the small shop attatched to the side of the pub. As we made to follow, two other vehicles drove in -- a father with two small children that distracted us by being so damn cute, making their way to the pier for a look see, and a largish, Land Rover with yellow GB plates. It contained a youngish couple with 1.5 children.
Inside the shop, we discovered that the pub would be closing at 2 -- 'It being the off season, and all'.
"Ah, yes," says I. "And when, exactly, would it be that it opens?"
"Well, they are closing at 2, sir." The young girl looked a bit confused, as if uncertain of what I was asking. Apparently, she finally realized that I was a Yank, and presumably, a bit dense about such things. "So," says she, smiling patiently, "They will be opening up about 12, of course."
We went back out front to discover that GB hubby and young son were occupying a table near the pier, as young mother (with attatched, .5 child) was fetching over a glass of orange minerals and a frothy pint of the Black stuff, for himself. When we entered the now unlocked pub, we were courteously greeted and advised that they weren't quite 'set', yet.
"But if you can say what it is that you'll want, we can begin thinking about the making of it.'
1 Double pot of tea, two large bowls of soup - one mushroom and one chicken vegetable, both with brown bread, one toasted special and one toasted ham and cheese, without dressings. Everything was excedingly tasty and the price? A modest 16 Euro 50. Exiting the pub, we adjourned to th shop next door, where I stumbled across a copy of NORTHSIDE OF THE MIZEN by Patrick McCarthy and Richard Hawkes for a miserly, 15 Euro. I considered one of the tee shirts, but ...
Back on the road, we drove past the Barley Cove Beach that thoroughly facinated my wife and followed a tour bus out to the visitor's center's car park. The bus turned out to be filled (or nearly so) with what appeared to be elderly Irish women -- who, though sounding entirely, authenticly Irish, STILL brought to mind a gaggle of escapees from Jerry Steinfeld's infamous "Del Boca Grande'! We left the women to the Interpretive Center as we headed out to the signal beacon on the point. There is a gate set up to collect your ticket, just as you exit the Center / snack bar / souvineer stand, but it is unmanned. After following the path past the 99 steps (signposted as Do Not Enter - but only from the top!), we made our way to the infamous "shakey bridge". It is now so swathed in so many safety precaution railings fence cage mesh and scaffolding planks that I think you could drive a small car over it without eliciting a twitch. The view from the bridge, the point (southernmost in all of Ireland) and, indeed, along the entire walk itself, was WELL worth it. As we arrived at the buildings supporting the signal, a man popped out from one to ask for our tickets. Wonder if they would have made us walk all the way back to the Center, if we couldn't produce them???
As we drove back, my wife prevailed upon me to stop at the car park so that she could hike down to the deserted sand beach at Barley Cove. I stayed in the car park with my fresh Diet Coke, my CDs and my newly acquired book. Upon her return, we drove back through Goleen and into Skull, which is quite a large town. I saw at least two banks along the main street that had ATMs, but we discovered a large car park at a SPAR, where we purchased a few snacks AND recharged my lilting wallet. From Skull, we drove on to Ballydehob and then took the N71 into Bantry. The day still being rather young, we continued on to Glengarriff, deciding to attack the bulk of our 'shopping list'. We parked in the Quills lot and did a quick tour through the store, making a mental note of prices, etc. Then we crossed the street to the Glengarriff Crafts shop, enticed by the huge banner signs declaring SALE (not unlike the same signage, that we had seen at Quill's). To my suprise, not only were the prices actually lower, but the selection (of the merchandise we were searching for, at least) seemed more expansive. We secured sweaters for our son and DIL, a framed wall hanging (in Irish), and adorable sweaters that our grandson and granddaughter will be able to wear next winter for about 200 Euro.
As my wife was settling up with the VAT back paperwork, etc., I wandered out to observe the on-going construction on the building next door. Then, we went back into Quill's and picked up the remaining items (36 Euro) that we had seen earlier but had been unable to duplicate at the Crafts shop. And, yes, BOTH of us got taken with the infamous DCC! In my case, I actually called the clerk on it and was advised that the US dollar amount was 'just for information purposes' and quite honestly, the extra 50 cents or so difference just wasn't worth fighting over. Likewise, we decided, even with the 'extra' $4 or so tacked on, we still felt satisfied with what the Crafts shop merchandise had cost (we WERE using our Credit Union provided Debit card, so we didn't take a 'double' hit). Still, it does frost me that the tiny print on the bottom of the receipt says "Cardholder has chosen to pay in USD".
We drove back into Bantry and had dinner at the Bantry Bay Hotel's O'Callahan's pub. By now, it was getting dark and I missed the turn off for the Goat's Path and ended up taking the longer route, through Durrus and Ahakista.
!! THERE ARE NO STREETLIGHTS ON THE SHEEP"S HEAD DRIVE !!
It was a tense drive home to the cottage in Kilcrohane. As impossible as it seems, the roads get even narrower in the dark. It may have something to do with heat convection swelling and shrinking the asphalt. All I know is that those 1 1/2 lane roads SEEMED barely wide enough for my little Ford Focus and meeting the occasional vehicle head on was a truely 'white knuckle' experience.
More to come ...
Bob
VISIONS OF MIZEN
Another glorious day, as by 9AM the sun chased away the gloom. Since the shop in Kilcrohane carries every conceivable variation of Coke product EXCEPT Diet Coke, I stopped into the market in Durrus. As Iwas beging to run a bit low on Euros, I inquired as to the location of the nearest ATM. As our destination was Mizen, I was advised that the nearest was in Goleen, or barring that, Skull. Durrus is not a LOT bigger than Kilcrohane, but it IS bigger, but I wasn't to the point of being desperate for cash, so we headed on the R591 along the north shore before crossing South, to Toormore. From there, we followed the South coast to Goleen (Not much bigger than Durrus). There, I replenished my Diet coke and inquired again.
"The ATM is at the Post Office," the young shop girl told me, without guile, as she handed me my change. Walking out to the car, I scanned up and down the street, looking for the green AN POST sign. Eventually, I spotted the small, rectangular banner, proudly jutting from the facade of the shop that I had just exited. Rentering the store, I now noticed the tidy little cubicle -- on the far wall directly opposite the shop's cashier. When I asked the young man behind the shelf about the ATM, he replied that it was only accessable by AIB customers, and that the nearest other that "would do any good" was located in Skull.
Continuing on, we ended up in a very quiet and subdued Crookhaven, at about 10 minutes before Noon. Since Budman and others had spoken highly of O'Sullivan's Bar. Unfortunately, when we tried the front door, though the sign said, 'OPEN', it was locked and no one was about. It seemed quite possible that, being the 'off season', they were, indeed, closed and had simply overlooked the sign, as we had passed two other places that had proudly displayed the fact that they were not open. But, as we walked back to our car, four twenty-somethings drove up, hopped out and strode perposely around to the small shop attatched to the side of the pub. As we made to follow, two other vehicles drove in -- a father with two small children that distracted us by being so damn cute, making their way to the pier for a look see, and a largish, Land Rover with yellow GB plates. It contained a youngish couple with 1.5 children.
Inside the shop, we discovered that the pub would be closing at 2 -- 'It being the off season, and all'.
"Ah, yes," says I. "And when, exactly, would it be that it opens?"
"Well, they are closing at 2, sir." The young girl looked a bit confused, as if uncertain of what I was asking. Apparently, she finally realized that I was a Yank, and presumably, a bit dense about such things. "So," says she, smiling patiently, "They will be opening up about 12, of course."
We went back out front to discover that GB hubby and young son were occupying a table near the pier, as young mother (with attatched, .5 child) was fetching over a glass of orange minerals and a frothy pint of the Black stuff, for himself. When we entered the now unlocked pub, we were courteously greeted and advised that they weren't quite 'set', yet.
"But if you can say what it is that you'll want, we can begin thinking about the making of it.'
1 Double pot of tea, two large bowls of soup - one mushroom and one chicken vegetable, both with brown bread, one toasted special and one toasted ham and cheese, without dressings. Everything was excedingly tasty and the price? A modest 16 Euro 50. Exiting the pub, we adjourned to th shop next door, where I stumbled across a copy of NORTHSIDE OF THE MIZEN by Patrick McCarthy and Richard Hawkes for a miserly, 15 Euro. I considered one of the tee shirts, but ...
Back on the road, we drove past the Barley Cove Beach that thoroughly facinated my wife and followed a tour bus out to the visitor's center's car park. The bus turned out to be filled (or nearly so) with what appeared to be elderly Irish women -- who, though sounding entirely, authenticly Irish, STILL brought to mind a gaggle of escapees from Jerry Steinfeld's infamous "Del Boca Grande'! We left the women to the Interpretive Center as we headed out to the signal beacon on the point. There is a gate set up to collect your ticket, just as you exit the Center / snack bar / souvineer stand, but it is unmanned. After following the path past the 99 steps (signposted as Do Not Enter - but only from the top!), we made our way to the infamous "shakey bridge". It is now so swathed in so many safety precaution railings fence cage mesh and scaffolding planks that I think you could drive a small car over it without eliciting a twitch. The view from the bridge, the point (southernmost in all of Ireland) and, indeed, along the entire walk itself, was WELL worth it. As we arrived at the buildings supporting the signal, a man popped out from one to ask for our tickets. Wonder if they would have made us walk all the way back to the Center, if we couldn't produce them???
As we drove back, my wife prevailed upon me to stop at the car park so that she could hike down to the deserted sand beach at Barley Cove. I stayed in the car park with my fresh Diet Coke, my CDs and my newly acquired book. Upon her return, we drove back through Goleen and into Skull, which is quite a large town. I saw at least two banks along the main street that had ATMs, but we discovered a large car park at a SPAR, where we purchased a few snacks AND recharged my lilting wallet. From Skull, we drove on to Ballydehob and then took the N71 into Bantry. The day still being rather young, we continued on to Glengarriff, deciding to attack the bulk of our 'shopping list'. We parked in the Quills lot and did a quick tour through the store, making a mental note of prices, etc. Then we crossed the street to the Glengarriff Crafts shop, enticed by the huge banner signs declaring SALE (not unlike the same signage, that we had seen at Quill's). To my suprise, not only were the prices actually lower, but the selection (of the merchandise we were searching for, at least) seemed more expansive. We secured sweaters for our son and DIL, a framed wall hanging (in Irish), and adorable sweaters that our grandson and granddaughter will be able to wear next winter for about 200 Euro.
As my wife was settling up with the VAT back paperwork, etc., I wandered out to observe the on-going construction on the building next door. Then, we went back into Quill's and picked up the remaining items (36 Euro) that we had seen earlier but had been unable to duplicate at the Crafts shop. And, yes, BOTH of us got taken with the infamous DCC! In my case, I actually called the clerk on it and was advised that the US dollar amount was 'just for information purposes' and quite honestly, the extra 50 cents or so difference just wasn't worth fighting over. Likewise, we decided, even with the 'extra' $4 or so tacked on, we still felt satisfied with what the Crafts shop merchandise had cost (we WERE using our Credit Union provided Debit card, so we didn't take a 'double' hit). Still, it does frost me that the tiny print on the bottom of the receipt says "Cardholder has chosen to pay in USD".
We drove back into Bantry and had dinner at the Bantry Bay Hotel's O'Callahan's pub. By now, it was getting dark and I missed the turn off for the Goat's Path and ended up taking the longer route, through Durrus and Ahakista.
!! THERE ARE NO STREETLIGHTS ON THE SHEEP"S HEAD DRIVE !!
It was a tense drive home to the cottage in Kilcrohane. As impossible as it seems, the roads get even narrower in the dark. It may have something to do with heat convection swelling and shrinking the asphalt. All I know is that those 1 1/2 lane roads SEEMED barely wide enough for my little Ford Focus and meeting the occasional vehicle head on was a truely 'white knuckle' experience.
More to come ...
Bob
Apr 20th, 2006, 12:37 AM
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Bob,
Great pictures!
Once again, thank you for the great trip report...I feel as if I am sitting in the back seat and enjoying the ride right along with you.
I impatiently await the rest of your tale!
Dawn
Great pictures!
Once again, thank you for the great trip report...I feel as if I am sitting in the back seat and enjoying the ride right along with you.
I impatiently await the rest of your tale!
Dawn
Apr 20th, 2006, 08:43 AM
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Bob, thanks for the tips about Beara. You are right in that we are coming from Kenmare but will be staying in Bantry before heading on to Kinsale. How long would you allow to do the Sheep's Head in case we want to take it in as well? Sounds like it is well worth doing.
Apr 20th, 2006, 12:29 PM
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starfish1:
Two to three hours would likely do an EXTENSIVE driving tour of the Sheep's Head with stops. Dunno if it would allow enough time to hike out to the end from the little visitor's center, though.
greendragon:
Keep checking back as I have tales to tell about Millstreet and Caherbarnagh.
Bob
Two to three hours would likely do an EXTENSIVE driving tour of the Sheep's Head with stops. Dunno if it would allow enough time to hike out to the end from the little visitor's center, though.
greendragon:
Keep checking back as I have tales to tell about Millstreet and Caherbarnagh.
Bob
