julies

I saw this description by massimop in response to a query about a different part of Italy, but it is exactly the type of experience we are looking to have as we start in Genoa and travel south.

"Are looking for the kind of experience of Italy that is more about strolls in old neighborhoods, cafes, lunches, scenic settings, then you might want a different set of smaller historic towns along those routes where it is easier to find parking and there are fewer tourists, but loads of lovely streets & piazze & pastry shops etc."

Our thought is for an October trip of close to three weeks. The rough structure (I think) is to start in Genoa and work our way south, primarily along the coastal areas although going inland would also be fine if there are worthy destinations. We want to do some not terribly strenuous walking/hiking in Cinque Terre and other areas too if you have other suggestions. Then, we'll end up with a week long self-guided cycling trip in Apulia. I think we'd prefer to use public transportation in the Genoa and Cinque Terre areas because it seems like less of a hassle there. Puglia we'd be primarily traveling by bicycle. In between we could rent a car if it would enhance the experience.

We were in Naples nearly a half a century ago; I'd assume it has changed. At that time we visited Herculanaum but not Pompeii, and we visited Mt. Vesuvius. So, I'd like to visit Pompeii and maybe re-visit Naples.

While a few churches and museums would inevitably be on our itinerary, they would not be our focus since we've visited tons of those on other Italian trips. Overall ambiance is what we are looking for, and we do not want to be in tourist central.

Do you have any suggestion for possible places to pencil in as nice destinations for a few days? Perhaps some places we could use as bases since we prefer that over moving all of the time. We are also more into slow travel, with quality over quantity as our goal.

Thanks.

Byrd

A few years ago we flew to Genoa and went to Rapallo for several days, which we found charming. Next we took the train to Vernazza and Santa Margheritoa.

We had been to the CT before, but this time did more hiking the trails.

We also enjoyed Santa Margherita, and took the ferry to Portofino from there for a day trip.

Both Rapalla, Vernazza, and Santa Margerita are charming and all very well located.

massimop

The weather becomes highly unpredictable along the Italian Riviera about 10 days into October, through to about the end of November. If the days are dry, it's lovely hiking weather. If it rains, those rains can be intense deluges that cause serious floods and landslides, including in Genoa as well as hillside villages, and which can paralyze train and highway transportation for several days running.

The description of mine you quoted suggested flat inland historic towns in Lombardy and Emilia Romagna for that kind of Italian experience of strolls & cafes. If you'd rather be by the seaside and do some strenuous hiking, towns south of Naples are better for that, and if you don't want the touristy towns of the Amalfi, consider going a bit south of there into the Cilento and that immediate area.

If you want to take a flyer on the Riviera, Rapallo makes a nice "base" for hikes in several directions, and has Chiavari nearby for good food and shopping in a beautiful historic setting. But if you book there in October, work up a plan "B" to cancel and go somewhere else if the forecasts for the coastal weather are grim. If you flying into Milan, it is quite easy to get to Bologna in October, and from there maybe using Ferrara for a "base" would interest you (it is hard to book last-minute in Bologna in October, but you can try).

massimop

In case it wasn't clear, my suggestion to consider going south of Naples for seaside hiking is really only about October weather. I otherwise prefer the Italian Riviera to the Amalfi, but in October, the Amalfi and points south tend to have dry weather longer (no guarantees).

julies

Thanks for all of the advice. Now I am becoming apprehensive about the weather bit as far as outdoor activities because I hadn't realized that the weather systems could turn so quickly in October. Perhaps we need to rethink our ideas and focus on further south.

Those were October floods that severely impacted the Cinque Terre several years ago, correct?

I am going to take a more serious look at Rapallo as a base though. And, we'd still be interested in nice, scenic historic towns with cafes, ambiance, and strolls too.

I should also clarify that we are not looking for super strenuous walking. We want to be places where we could walk for perhaps 4 or 5 hours a day.

massimop

The area has suffered severe flooding from intense rains as early as Oct 9. The rains that so badly damaged the le Cinque Terre villages were Oct 25, in a different year. It's just a moving target -- because in between rains the weather is likely to be lovely (and they may not occur at all in Oct, but Nov), although if you are planning on hiking in parks or forest trails, the ground underfoot gets increasingly soft.

Almost everywhere between Genova and the Tuscan border is vertical. It's a crenellated coastline, with lots of coves and ravines.. So hikes of 4 or 5 hours will mostly involve climbing over promontories and mountains. Hard to find a flattish walk of any duration that isn't shared with motor traffic.

Rapallo & Chiavari are two of the larger towns in the area when it comes to strolling. While it is easy to use the train to quickly reach other pretty places on the coast, you can walk the entire town in 30 minutes. Both Zoagli & Nervi have scenic walking promenades along the waterside, and there is a not-too-strenuous pedestrian path from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino.

I think if you go south of Naples in hopes of better weather you might need to go south of the town of Amalfi to avoid strenuous hikes.

julies

massimop--

You are a wealth of information! Thanks so much.

This is especially valuable information: "Almost everywhere between Genova and the Tuscan border is vertical. It's a crenellated coastline, with lots of coves and ravines.. So hikes of 4 or 5 hours will mostly involve climbing over promontories and mountains. Hard to find a flattish walk of any duration that isn't shared with motor traffic."

massimop

These websites might be useful

http://www.portofinotrek.com/trek/gb/

http://www.apathtolunch.com/

thursdaysd

@julies - I don't remember - have you been to Sicily?

julies

kathy--

We spent three weeks in Sicily in October two years ago and really enjoyed it.