Don't hear too much about Amsterdam on this forum. Looking forward to more

Staying on a houseboat has always intrigued me. Thanks for your description. Loving your report.

Looking forward to more! Would love more details about staying on a houseboat...how does it compare to an apartment? Do all the "facilities" work well? Like you, I wouldn't have thought of it but the outside deck area sounds fantastic.

After going to bed last night @ 10pm we woke this morning @ 7am, and feeling great. The bed was quite comfortable. We scramble up some eggs with the leftover cheese and proscuitto. We opened two of the windows, a touch of a chill, it feels good.

Time for a shower, I was a bit apprehensive, although there was nothing to be apprehensive about - great water temp, pressure, and supply.

Headed to the library by Centraal Station (Bibliotheek Amsterdam) as I wanted to go to the coffee bar on the 7th floor for the great views that I had read about here on this forum. Loved it! The view is magnificient! Sat on the terrace and enjoyed cafe lattes. Would come back here for a meal, it is cafeteria-style, and everything looked fresh-fresh-fresh, with a cool atmosphere. Would have stayed longer but wanted to do some shopping. Our shopping highlights were:

Spied a contemporary souvenir shop, Saskya & Co (www.saskyasouvenirs.nl). Liked what I saw in her windows and inside the shop did not disappoint. They have a well-edited selection of merchandise, Saskia herself is a charmer, providing personal service, wrapped up our purchases beautifully.

DH spotted the next shop, I was looking in another direction, not real interested. "You HAVE to see this" he said, and in we went to United Nude, which is a shoe store. United Nude is one of the coolest stores that I've ever seen. (You have to see it too: www.unitednude.com). The store is dark, there is a "Wall of Light" where each shoe is displayed it in its own cube, with the colors behind changing constantly. I was like a kid in a candy store, was assisted by the most darling little Dutch girl ever, who explained the brand is a collaboration between a Dutch architect and Clark's shoes. And if you think the store itself is cool, let me tell you about the two pairs of United Nude shoes that I now own....

Also discovered a new(ish) lingerie store, Sam Friday. Clean, modern, and of course lingerie is so easy to pack.

We need to take a little break, we are near Luden (www.luden.nl), we've been here a couple times before and it is a welcome sight. There's a few different rooms and we slip into an empty narrow room by the bar, and into a window seat. We stayed there the rest of the afternoon, relaxed and happy, watching the world go by. DH had amazing cream of mushroom soup, followed by a seafood stew. I had a delicious goat cheese salad, drizzled with honey, sprinkled with thyme. The bread was wonderful also, the country white bread had pepper, and the brown bread had cumin.

There is a live webcam in Amsterdam that we frequently view from home. We went to the spot, called up DH's daughter who gathered up her kids in front of their computer so we could wave to them. (www.terena.nl/~dick/cam2.asx).

Dinner was The Pancake Bakery on the Prinsengracht, apple pancakes for both of us. We were fortunate enough to be next in line when an outdoor table opened up, we were fortunate enough that the weather in Amsterdam continued to be gorgeous and sitting outside was lovely.

Back to the houseboat where I dragged out all of the half-burned white candles outside and nestled them around our deck as we shared a bottle of wine to end our evening. Truly enchanting.

Great report but anticipating the food poisoning whammy with empathy.

Lovely to hear of someone just enjoying being in the city, and not rushing from one museum to the next. The houseboat sounds lovely, and the weather perfect. I could almost be tempted to stay there for a day or two, even though I am only 50 minutes away by train .

Please can we have some of that lovely weather now - it is 13c and wet wet wet here now .

I too am wondering about the food poisoning.

16° in Paris, where it was 27° yesterday!

I'm enjoying your report, especially the food descriptions. The houseboat sounds wonderful.

I like Rick Steves, too. I also find his writing amusing. When I'm planning a trip I always buy a Rick Steves, a Frommers, and a Fodors.

P.S. I had food poisoning once. Not fun. I couldn't even keep down a Pepsi.

On our third day in Amsterdam we are headed to the Kroller Muller museum (www.kmm.nl), with the 2nd largest collection of Van Gogh's in the world. The museum is located within the Het National Park De Hoge Veluwe, about 50 miles SE of Amsterdam.

Two trains, one bus, and a 20 minute walk brings us to the visitor center where we each pick up a free white bicycle that are available for exploring.

We enjoyed the opportunity to visit a number of Van Gogh's, including "Cafe Terrace at Night", and walked through the large outdoor sculpture park. I am not appreciative/understanding of modern art, however it was a very pleasant way to spend an afternoon.

We had a lovely lunch outside - it is yet another beautiful day. Thee, warm ham sandwiches with spicy grainy mustard. We shared an apple pie with whipped cream, DH said it was the best whipped cream he ever had.

We had been looking forward to this day, DH is a huge Van Gogh fan - and it was everything we had hoped it would be.

We had both read a lot about getting to the museum and it sounded complicated and as though people had difficulty with it. We did not find it difficult at all, however it makes for a long day.

Daalder again for dinner, we sat outside in the center of the boulevard. We began with a tasting plate (sausage, bittenballs with feta + spinach, smoked salmon), it was all YUM. We both had the veal special. Minced veal wrapped around chopped gambas (large shrimp). Pureed potatoes with a bit of spinach waved around the plate and a bit of a brown sauce. Delicious! We would've gone for the "Tasting of Strawberries" that we had the other night, however opted for another glass of wine instead. (DH gets migranes from wine in the US - sulfites, we guess - and is able to drink wine with no issue in Europe, so we always make sure to exploit this)!

This is our last evening in Amsterdam, as we leave for France tomorrow.

just joining in -we weren't too struck on amsterdam, but your TR might be just enough to convert me!

Sidny - We love staying in a houseboat. Previously we stayed on what they call a barge, what I described in my travel notes as "really like a rectangular red house that sits on the water". The barge had large windows on the Prinsengracht. The tour boats would come by and we'd be sitting at the kitchen table and they'd be taking photos of us. This time the houseboat was actually a boat, so less headroom in the bow where the bedroom was, and of course you had a few steps down coming aboard. Everything else was pretty much like apts we have rented, oh, except without a steep staircase to climb!

Hetismij - The only reason we weren't rushing from museum to museum was that we've spent OTHER visits to Amsterdam rushing from museum to museum, and back again. I have to say that this way was incredibly enjoyable.

We love Amsterdam. It is a beautiful old city with a hip, modern edge. It's walkable and the people are friendly.

SwimChick, you've made my day. We were working on a trip for next spring going to Paris for two weeks, then London for the Chelsea Flower Show and had thought about adding a few days in Amsterdam early May in hope that the tulips will still be in bloom.

We were booking air today just after I read you trip report and now have 3 days in Amsterdam in, what I hope based on description, is your houseboat! Your fabulous description made the difference for my husband (a boater and master gardener.)

I'm so bad at previewing....that should be your trip report, not you trip report. And if my husband ever reads this, should probably be sailor, not boater.

Judy - our boat was Bouwersgracht Houseboat I (013). One tip: the sink in the bathroom has a faucet that goes on by sensor. So like if you were to put your cosmetic bag in the sink.....

We went to Keukenhof on our first visit to Amsterdam which was in early - mid May. I didn't realize how lucky we were, I thought the flowers were always blooming, I would've been so disappointed if we would've missed it.

YAY....I got the right boat....your description was so good!

We'll arrive May 2, which is maybe a little late, but our three weeks in Paris and London are already set and we just couldn't rationalize adding much more time to a three week trip. I'm sure we'll have a great time even if the tulips are a little wilted!

Thanks for the sink tip. We, of course, just booked so haven't heard back as to availability.

I am enjoying your report. I think Amsterdam is my favorite city after London.Thanks for sharing.

Very much enjoying your report but every time you mention eating something I think oh oh food poisoning.

I've only been to Amsterdam very briefly but I agree with you 100% that it is hip with excellent, forward-thinking shopping! Such a preponderance of good-looking people, too--and this is coming from someone who is not a blond lover.

Thanks for the report. Very sorry about the food poisoning.

SwimChick...are you concerned about how eagerly everyone is anticipating your food poisoning? Hope you never meet a Fodorite in a dark alley IRL

Thanks for all the info on the houseboat. Like others, I've never been more intrigued by Amsterdam than after reading your report thus far, regardless of the impending food poisoning!

I love Amsterdam, home to two of my favorite museums in the world. But I've never been off the beaten path there, so am really enjoying this report. Thank you!

So glad you enjoyed Vondelparc , our hotel breakfast room opened right out into it and it was a daily pleasure to have breakfast while enjoying the greenery. The house boat sounds like fun but my 6'6" husband would probably knock himself out early on!

It's now Wednesday and we are leaving Amsterdam. We slept well, started stirring a bit before 7am. We have adjusted to the new time zone incredibly well. In the past we have gone through great gyrations pre-trip to acclimate to the time change. We've tried the "Jet Lag Diet" (once)and always a week or ten days out we'll start getting up and going to bed earlier until we are accustomed to getting up at 4am EST, in an effort to at least come to a compromise with the time change. (This involves telling friends and family NOT to call the house, leaving work early, turning down invites, etc). This trip it wasn't possible, we made a feeble attempt by getting up at 4:30am for about five days prior to departing. Since arriving we have been getting up and going to bed at our "usual" times, Amsterdam time, like there wasn't even a time change.

Ok, so we're feeling great and get ourselves packed leisurely as we have an 11:16am Thalys train reservation. We have been on these trains previously, both 1st Class and 2nd Class, of which there was little difference in our eyes, beyond the small snack offered in 1st Class. Boy, have things changed. THIS 1st Class is very nice. Our roll-on's fit right above our seats, they fed us two decent meals (the second one a vegetarian plate with a cold pesto salad, marinated tomato wedges, fresh mozzarella balls, olives, yellow peppers, and - voila - cream puffs with chocolate sauce). Feeling relaxed and happy. I could stay on this train all day.

Our destination is Auvers sur Oise, which is the village where Van Gogh spent his last days and is buried, about an hour and a half NW of Paris.

We pulled into Paris Gare Nord, could feel my heart thudding, got a little teary, I AM IN PARIS, albeit only briefly today. Got on the Metro going in the wrong direction, when we realized our error we popped off the Metro, I looked up, and there was the Eiffel Tower it all its Parisian glory. I felt like I was in a movie.

(Our Thalys train tickets as well as our Paris Visite Pass, which allows us unlimited travel on the Metro, have been purchased online and sent to our home prior to our trip, at www.raileurope.com. It is one of the best things that we have learned to do. We aren't waiting to (try to) talk to someone about purchasing tickets. We aren't seeking out the kiosk with the shortest line. We're on the go - maybe not always in the right direction - but we're on the go).

We get off at the Pontoise station, there is a bus to catch to Auvers. DH is not a big bus guy. Loves trains, hates buses. So when we spot the taxi, we are in it in record time.

Short ride to our accomodations for the evening, Hostellerie du Nord (www.hostelleriedunord.fr). We then set out to Chateau d'Auver (www.chateau-auvers.fr) for a multi media presentation of the lives of the Impressionists. (It may sound cheesy, however it truly isn't). The only complaint we had was we had English audio headsets, however the French version coming over the P.A. system was so loud we had to keep our hands pressed over our ears in an attempt to hear).

Back to the hotel for our 20:00 reservation at their highly esteemed restaurant Joel Boilleaut. (Ok, so I am not sure where I am getting "highly esteemed" from, however that is the impression I had).

Beautiful room overlooking a beautiful terrace (just a little bit too chilly to eat outside. The restaurant was full, a nice low-key energy, service superb. I started with champagne (when in France...), DH had a Pastis, the amuse bouche could not of been any more petite - one was a blini with smoked salmon, I don't remember what else, the other was a piece of sausage with something on top of it - they were like miniature works of art, with intense wonderful flavors in these little bites. We like tasting menus, so that is what we both had, ordered wine. Began with a salade w/ asparagus and lobster, followed by aspargus soupe. Our fish course was monkfish (I hadn't had monkfish in so long, it was so good), veal, with an artichoke half. Then they brought the cheese trolley around. Ahhhhh. It was like I died and went to heaven. I selected six frommage. More than maybe is polite...however I couldn't stop myself. Enjoyed every morsel. Trio of sherbets in mini cream puffs, with flavors that just burst in your mouth, and petite madeleines and macaroons. Life is good. Life is SO good.

LOL! Are you sure it was food poisoning... or just eating an extremely large meal????

Just kidding!

When does the puking start?

Breakfast was served at 9am, coffee, oj, pastries including pains au chocolat, croissants,and a baguette. Also a trio of jams and jars of yogurt.

So happy we had decided to have breakfast delivered to the room, am moving slow this morning. They had asked at dinner if I wanted breakfast the following morning, I declined, having remembered reading somewhere that it was not good value. However when asked again and realizing how I was enjoying their food immensely....how could I not say "oui"?

Walked to the cemetary to visit Vincent's and his brother Theo's graves, the cemetary is surrounded by wheatfields. Peaceful and very quiet. Along the way, and also at the wheatfields you pass signage where the painters were done with the painting's image.

On the way back we stopped at the T.I., Sophie was very sweet and assisted with the train schedule. Discovered we can leave from the Auvers Sur Oise train station, which is right across the street from the hotel, rather than take a taxi or bus to Pontoise. (Nothing I had read indicated the station in Auvers). There was a little sign on the counter saying Sophie was available for walking tours in English, it seemed as though the cost was nominal. I wish we would've had time.

Having read "Van Gogh's Table at the Auberge Ravoux", I was disappointed we did not have time to go there, to visit Vincent's room, also the restaurant is supposed to be excellent. Next time.

We are being cautious and allowing more than enough time to be at the Paris apartment that we have rented to be prompt to meet with the owner. Our booking was only a couple weeks ago and we had emailed back and forth, always receiving a quick response...'til the day our bank transferred the money. We heard nothing, and did not receive a response to our email or telephone messages. I finally caught up with her a couple days later, she said her son was getting married that day, all was well, "do not worry". So...we're not 100% confident about our accomodations.

At any rate, we do not want to be late. We get to the apartment on Ile St. Louis, arriving early. The big door swung open, the garde showed us through the courtyard, second floor (American third, no lift), up the staircase, and Martine greets us with a big smile and is quite charming.

We like the apartment. The building is on the Seine, our apartment is in the back with our big living room window opening onto the courtyard. Furnished nicely, traditionally (so much so that the flat screen TV looked out of place). Couch, two chairs, table. Also a desk, fireplace (nonworking), and chandelier The kitchen is off to one side of the room, with kitchen table and chairs. Love the bedroom. Large room, large bed with white duvet and lots of pillows. Fireplace (nonworking,but pretty), wardrobe built into wall with hanging space and drawers. The bedroom has a bathroom with bathtub and the handheld apparatus (you know what I mean, right?), sink, ample shelving. The toilet is in another room, off the foyer, with a small sink. The apartment is well appointed, the bathtub is new, the fixtures look deluxe. The towels are Frette and Yves Delorme. She's provided French toiletries. The kitchen is well equipped as well, an expresso maker, with expresso, DeLongh toaster. The a/c unit is an unusual contraption. It looks kind of like a big vacumn cleaner that blows out cool air and has a flexible tube where the hot air blow out. Looks funny, but works.

Who did you rent your apartment from? We just rented one in Rome from Sleepinitaly...we also did not want to be late to meet the representative who would let us in, and in fact were an hour early so we could eat dinner first. Luckily there was a cafe just across our narrow cobblestone street from the door so we had a bird's eye view. Unfortunately, the guy didn't show up. we finally called the owner and she tracked him down. He arrived 1 1/4 hours late. It was a nice apartment with no toiletries. (Would have been nice to have a bit of soap after traveling all day).

We left Rome today. The same guy was supposed to meet us there last night at 6 to check us out and to return our security deposit. He never showed up and didn't answer his phone so at 8 we left for dinner. We left a message as to where we would be but he didn't show up at all. You are very lucky the way things worked out for you...or we are very unlucky! Now comes the part about tracking down our check!

Amsterdam is lovely... I could say it not because I've been there but because of how you described it. And the houseboats! They sound fun and amazing.

FYI: All wines have sulfites--it occurs naturally on many plants, like grapes, onions, garlic, etc. Most wines have added sulfites unless they are meant to be consumed very quickly after bottling--otherwise the wine will turn to vinegar in just a few months. Winemakers have been adding sulfites to preserve wines for centuries--including the ancient Greeks and Romans.

Even wines advertised as "sulfite-free" have sulfites--just very low levels.

Agree totally about staying on the move! Loving this TR and want to stay on a boat in Amsterdam!

We visited Amsterdam for the first time last Spring...LOVED it. Hope to go back again. Of course, we had fantastic weather, and that helps tremendously, when so much of the city is focused on "outdoors."

Waiting for more, really enjoying it so far.

I, too, am enjoying your report!

Also looking forward to continuation of story, SwimChick!

I love visiting libraries (lib - librarian) and now know if ever I get a chance to visit, I could enjoy the Bibliotheek Amsterdam's cafe.

(Have been in South Beach for work the past few days...busy days with being taken out for big dinners in the evening, after parties and fashion shows at night - ok, truth be told we only made it to ONE after party/fashion show...happy to be home this morning, although suspect between the Amsterdam and Paris trip, followed quickly the by South Beach trip, we're going to be in for a Big Letdown Soon).

Ok, back to Paris...we quickly unpack and head out for Le Flore en Ile seeking a late lunch. It looks like it might rain so inside we go. The restaurant is located on the tip of Ile St. Louis, we were at a table by the window overlooking the back of Notre Dame. We start with French onion soup, there are a number of good things on the menu. Here is the list of specials, ah....tartare, frites, salade verte, oh that is us! There was a burst of rain while we were eating, so we are happy to be inside, relaxing, and enjoying some of our favorite Paris bistro foods.

No dessert, too full, maybe later. We attempted to find the Virgin Megastore on rue Rivoli as I had ordered tickets online that we needed to pick up, however could not locate! Got on Metro to head to Champs-Elysses store. At the turnstile I sailed through and jumped through the door, turned and my eyes were as big as saucers as I saw DH attempting to climb OVER the turnstile. It was the funniest thing I ever saw, DH is not a climb-over-anything kind of guy, does not suffer from separation anxiety from me, and of course the turnstiles are not designed to be easily climbed over. I quickly jumped off and joined him as he was now coming through properly and we waited for for next train. Located and picked up tickets without incident, headed back to our area. SMUSHED-SMUSHED-SMUSHED in Metro - unbelievable. You know, you could tell someone how tightly packed you were, and they could never imagine how smushed unless they've been there during rush hour themselves.

ttt

Great report! I haven't been to Amsterdam in more than 20 years and your report is making me think I need to plan a trip there soon!

I completely understand about the SMUSHED-ness on the Metro during rush hour...been there, done that!

Looking forward to reading more!

Ah, the Virgin Megastore on rue de Rivoli is underground in the Louvre shopping mall...

Bolted at Hotel de Ville, wandered through the Marais, stopped at Monoprix for a few grocery items. Decided to go back out later in the evening, are pleased with our choice of apartments and the area, feeling the St. I'le St. Louis is an oasis. Not really hungry...a gelato? No. Maybe a crepe? No. How about a drink? No. Nice evening, ready to call it a day.

"I had diarrhea this morning."
"Are you sure?"
"Yes."
"I mean, are you REALLY sure?"

I don't think he answered my last inquiry. Obviously it wasn't what I wanted to hear, and even more so, certainly not what DH wanted to of been experiencing.

The sun was shining, we had the big window open, we had a little breakfast at the apartment. I ran out to the pharmacy for meds for him, then went out solo to give him time to regroup/relax/whatever.

Meandering on Rue St. Louis en I'le. Pyones is a fun shop that gets a lot of play here on the forum, Diwali has numerous locations in Paris, I always pop in and purchase a scarf or two. Wondering how DH is doing, I had hoped to venture out to the Marche d' Aligre Market and Pere-Lachaise, then maybe to Canal St-Martin today. I call him and we agree that we'll meet on the bench overlooking the Seine in front of our apartment.

Well, he shows up and he's doing his best at being a good sport, he's telling me he is better, but he's looking a little wobbly to me. When I suggest we go back up to the apartment he does not disagree. I am thinking that he needs food and DH isn't comfortable with the idea of being in a cafe. We devise a plan to find take-away soup. Up, down, and around, we finally find a market with soup in glass jars. Potato and leek soup, one of our favorites!!!! Purchased two jars and headed home. I was certain he is going to be up to par after a little soup and bread.

I had the tiniest little taste of soup, like what you would feed a baby. I had a crumb of bread the size of my thumbnail....my stomach clenched, the next thing I knew I was flat on my back outside the bathroom after having vomited violently. I laid on the floor a little while, then the chills came. My teeth were chattering and I was shaking. I crawled into bed, thank goodness it is a big king size bed with nice linens and lots pillows, and a quiet apartment. Another huge comforter is located in the wardrobe and I am cocooned.

We sleep on and off for the rest of the day. I can only lay on my back as it is too uncomfortable to be on my side. We can't speak to one another as we do not have the energy. I won't say that I've never been this sick, although I don't know if I've ever been this weak. Feeling vulnerable as we are BOTH sick, we're away from home, and we really have no idea how sick we are, or what stage of this sickness we are in.

Later that evening DH is feeling better as he is talking and sitting up. He goes out and purchases Coke and pretzels. We are both feeling better as we eat pretzels and drink warm Coke in bed.

It has been a long day.

Hmmmm... no proof of food poisoning. You must do this entire trip again and see what happens.

Usually order tartare at one of the South Beach steakhouses we were just at...skipped it this time.

SwinChick: Love your report. Would love more info on your houseboat rental in Amsterdam as it would be the only way my DH would go there - well the beer would be reason #2.

Sucks...my husband got sick our last night and we dreaded the
day traveling to CDG and getting checked in, of course our flight was very delayed in leaving. Thank God we were in business class or he wouldn't have made it. He was so miserable and he was asleep within 15 minutes of us walking in our house. I luckily did not get it but was terrified it would hit me while we were on the plane. Glad you survived!

we both had a reaction to something we ate whilst travelling on a train in Tunisia. Fortunately we were in the "comfort" section, with decent toilet facilities. we were VERY happy that we were not in 3rd class with the goats.

I got very sick on our last trip to Paris in February. I can tell you that it is not fun to travel home (on Icelandair, connecting in Reykjavik)with only the facilities available on the plane or other public places. I went to the doctor the day after arriving home and was sick for over a week. Now I have to go back to Paris to get that horrible memory of being so sick out of my mind. I certainly don't want that to be my last memory of Paris.

ttt

OP - just wondering, do you have any idea which meal, item? made you ill - I scrolled back thru the thread a bit but its long and I'm lazy.

Food poisoning normally kicks in 12 to 24 hours after you ate the offending food. Sounds like the steak tartare to me!

tartare, frites, salade verte could have been the tartare or salad. You are left so weak after that. It sounds like food poisoning since you both got it together. Bummer.

The reason we scheduled this trip at this time was to attend Mode City, which is the European swimwear show. We both slept well and felt a lot better after the food poisoning escapade yesterday, and are determined to attend the show, held at Porte de Versailles. We are feeling a little cautious, but know we have business to take care of. As it turns out, we have no issues, the show is great.

We have 19:00 tickets to a concert at Sainte Chapelle that evening. We were already running a minute or two late when we hit their door, or rather couldn't find the door. The signs say "Sainte Chapelle Entrance" however the big black doors are bolted and locked (they couldn't convey "closed" any more than they did). Sooooo when YOU go know the entrance is just to the right of the big gold palais gates, you will see the small sign that says "Sainte Chapelle Concert".

The stained glass is soaring and beautiful. What a lovely venue for a concert, the acoustics were good. The seating was open, since we were walking in as the musicians were tuning up, we slid into the first pair of seats we spied. It was full, but not packed. We enjoyed Vivaldi's Four Seasons very much. (The talkative Italian family of six behind us, not so much). The concert lasted an hour, possibly an hour and ten minutes.

Walking back to the Ile St. Louis the streets are lined with souvenier shops, which I have a particular fondness for, although DH does not share this fondness. I ducked into a few shops across from Notre-Dame, pretty much all the same, backtracking to Aux Chimeres de Notre-Dame, as the shopkeeper was so polite and the store was so nice. When I told the shopkeeper this is why we returned he beamed and said they had been in existance since 1944.

With newly purchased souveniers tucked into my purse we are now maneuvering onto rue St. Louis en I'le. We had seen the restaurant Souza the other night, it had a magnificient red glow with a slick black and white interior. Full house, tiny space, however two seats open. Kir for me, red wine for DH. We both had the parmesan souffle which came with a simple green salad, risotto St. Jacques for me, DH had chicken with vegetables. Dessert, I had chocolate mousse, huge, with a thin layer on intense mint flavor on the bottom, a thin layer of liquid chocolate on top, and a generous amount of rich, creamy, dreamy chocolate mousse inbetween.

The people sitting next to us were American. It seems as though we NEVER have Americans anywhere near us in a restaurant, so I was almost startled to hear them speak English. (We usually hang in the 6th, so it is not as though we know the out-of-the-way places that tourists don't frequent). Patti and Mike, from California, had funny stories to share of traveling with their kids, 9, 5, and 3 years old. They also were in Amsterdam the same time we were, had friends who took them boating on the canals, perhaps they were on one of the boats we waved to passing our houseboat.

Soon we have the next table engaged in our conversation as well. She was born in Italy, lives in Germany. He, born in Germany, studies in the U.S., returned to Germany (+ sounded American). She showed us her new Roger Vivier flats (grey suede with tortoise buckle) as he showed his Laduree macaroon purchase, which he offered to share. She poked him on the coast of the macaroons. I remained mum but thought about the probable cost of her new shoes...

Today we felt back in the swing of things, we got our business done, and ended the day with a great meal and enjoyed great company.

Glad you recovered well from the food poisoning. Still following along.

Curious-did you get your tix to the concert at St Chapelle online or during your trip? We have thought about doing this and found an online site for tix but weren't sure of its legitimacy, so we skipped it. If you got them on a website, would you be willing to share it?

Also glad you were well enough to go to show and concert. Yes, where did you purchase your tickets?

(Restaurant last night was Sorza, not Souza).

Sunday, our last day, we had tickets for the Musee d' Orsay and the special Manet exhibition. The advance ticket purchase was appreciated as the line to purchase tickets was horrendous. I purchased these tickets as well as the Sainte-Chapelle concert tickets at www.ticketnet.fr. I paid for them online and picked them up at a Virgin Megastore upon arrival in Paris. The Manet exhibit was the icing on the cake for our Impressionist-intensive trip.

Afterward, hungry, we headed back to I'le St. Louis and to Aux Anysetiers du Roy. Small, with fabulous food smells as you enter, you can hear the sizzling in the kitchen. "She" cooks, "He" is your waitperson, they go back and forth constantly in French. French onion soup for each of us, served with the croutons and shredded cheese to be added at the table. I had the goat cheese salade, DH ordered the sole menuire, which he loved. I wished I had ordered it also. (I watched as DH deftly deboned his fish. I didn't recall this ability of his, and said so. "I saw it watching Julia Child" he confided).

Shopping, shopping, shopping followed in the Marais district as their shops are open on Sunday, it was slammed. People all over the place, it was just on the borderline of being TOO crowded.

Back to the apartment for the champagne (that I was worried about not being able to enjoy when I was lying in bed sick), frommage, smoked salmon, bread. Dessert was Berthillon for framboise sorbet.

Metro to the Eiffel Tower to get a little more up close and personal. Crowded, full of energy. (Also full of the souvenier hawkers - how does that work when they all have the same merchandise offered one foot away from one another?)! We take a few photos and head back. Had a citron and sucre crepe. We make these at home, kind of a house specialty, however there is nothing like a crepe on the streets of Paris.

The next day 7am we are on the Metro headed to the airport, terminal #2. Full, but we are able to stow our luggage and sit. Upon arrival at #2 we discovered we are really going out of #1, which DH said happened last time we flew out as well, took tram to #1.

DeTaxe Tax Refund line. It seems as though I am not the only one arguing with my spouse about whether or not we should wait in this line, the couple behind us appear to be having the same conversation. The line moves quick.

We were never rushed, it did seem like we spent a lot of time in lines. I did not have the opportunity to spend the Euro change in my purse pocket; I was hoping for a glossy French magazine...

12:07pm "Wheels Down" in Newark, 1:05pm in President's Club. Everything was smooth sailing until we hit a jam up going through security, it was mayhem for a bit there. A layover, and then finally headed home.

A great, great vacation. A bit more relaxed than previous trips, not as scheduled and running from place to place as we usually are, which made DH really happy, however which made me, the planner, a little uptight at times, although I hope to take the not as scheduled philosophy forward on our next trip. A great, great vacation.

thanks for the ticket info...glad you made it home (you are probably a little sad about that now, I always am).

have never done the VAT refund, I am too lazy and the stress of the airport and more lines...maybe this trip

glad you had fun!

Same as denisea. I was always to detail person so I understand how you feel! Very enjoyable TR.

we are in the process of booking our lodging in amsterdam and have been considering a houseboat from frederic (also found in the rick steve's book). Is there anything we should know about booking a houseboat? thanks Diane