cas_dc

A friend and I (29 year old women) will be travelling to Turkey in October, and we will be spending a week in Istanbul (we are also travelling to Goreme and along the coast, but we have the details of those trips finalized).

We've been researching potential hotels and think that we would prefer the Beyoglu neighborhood, since we have heard that it is less touristy. We definitely prefer a hotel that is near restaurants/bars so that we can easily get back to the hotel in the evening. We also tend to prefer smaller, boutique hotels. We've seen a few that seem appealing, including the Pera Tulip, Galata Antique, Lush, and the House Hotel Galatasaray. Does anyone have feedback on any of these or other recommendations that are similar? We are looking to stay around $200/night, although that is flexible.

We're also interested in any recommendations for restaurants in the Beyoglu neighborhood, including both more expensive/nicer dinners and more casual eating options. Since we'll be there for a week, we'll need some variety!

We are aware of most of the main tourist/historical sites, but are still trying to find more "off the beaten path" activities. We are thinking about hiring a personal guide to take us around the markets, and we are also very interested in taking a day-long cooking class. I've found a few cooking class recommendations on tripadvisor (Turkish Flavours, Sarnic Hotel Cooking Class, etc.). We also hope to go to a Turkish Bath and have seen quite a few recommendations in travel books (I don't have the information in front of me, but I will follow up with specific names to get feedback). Does anyone have insight or experience with these types of activities?

Thanks in advance for your help!

otherchelebi

I have not visited the hotels you mention but do not like their locations much. they are on small side streets which may seem busy one moment and then suddenly deserted and creepy after 10-11PM in October.

I strongly recommend hotels on Siraselviler or Akarsu street in Cihangir/Taksim area, or even at Talimhane. You should have enough alternatives in your price range. Agood choice will be Villa Zurich, although its rooms are rather small.

There is an excellent fish restaurant, Doga Balik, at roof of Villa Zurich, and our favorite restaurant Changa is near Taksim at Siraselviler Street. These are not cheap but worth the price.

Cihangir is a lovely bohemian neighbourhood where you will have it lively at all hours with cafes, restaurants small shops which stay open late, our favorite wine and cheese and pastry shops, etc.

Try Lebi Derya on roof of Richmond hotel near Tunel, Kiva near Galata Tower (regional Turkish), Prokopi (Armenian) just off Miss Sokak off istiklal closer to Taksim, Kebapci at Gumussuyu Boulevard going down towards the Dolmabahce Palace, just past the Japanese consulate.

Go to Hunkar for Istanbul home cooking menu at Mim Kemal oke street in Misantasi not far from taksim, eat lunch at tiny old Hacibey diagonally across from tesvikiye police station.

Try the pudding shop standard at Saray on istiklal or at Tesvikiye.

Other possibilities at Nisantasi area are: Venge, Kosebasi, Tatbak for kebap; Yekta for typical old istanbul menu, Park Samdan, for modernized and upscale old Istanbul menu; Beymen Brasserie and Kirinti and Mid point for people watching and to be seen, as well as Zanzibar.

Dress well for Nisantasi area and Changa, even for lunch. I was walking around today in those areas and you'd be surprised at the mini shorts and skirts and the designer outfits.

Jeans or whatever is fine at other places. Do not worry about wearing straps, as long as you cover your shoulders and head when visiting mosques.

Hold tightly to your purses and act as you would in New York. Never carry your passport and all your cards with you. (This advice is valid for wherever you travel, and not specifically for Istanbul)

Check "Istanbul Eats" web site. Some people liked it on Trip Advisor.

Galatasaray Hamam is less touristy than the ones around Sultanahmet and you may try that. you should check the times for women.

You should not need a guide for the markets.
The easiest will be the Besiktas Market on Saturday. The toughest will be the huge Tuesday market at Hasanpasa, kadikoy (Asian side)

Consider day or evening excursions to Bebek, Ortakoy or day excursions to Rumelihisari, Uskudar, Kadikoy.

cas_dc

Thank you, Otherchelebi! This is very helpful. I appreciate the comment on the hotel locations, too. I generally like hotels that are on side streets, but you make an excellent point about walking home at night. I'll be sure to look for options in the areas you mentioned.

Aduchamp1

Dress well for Nisantasi area and Changa, even for lunch. I was walking around today in those areas and you'd be surprised at the mini shorts and skirts and the designer outfits.

So that is why you went back today, just make sure everyone was dressed properly for lunch?

otherchelebi

Adu, I went back again today and it was the same. will check a few more times before I give you the final sign to hightail it here again.

otherchelebi

cas dc,

unfortunately the mayors of beyoglu district and the greater municipality of istanbul have confiscated (illegally) all seating on sidewalks and pedestrian only streets off Istiklal in the last two weeks. This has reduced the evening and night activity drastically in the area, leaving the side streets to more shady characters, as they used to be before the sidewalk cafes and restaurants had started flourishing some 5-6 years ago.

The action of the mayors will very soon kill the tourism and the entertainment in this area, as more people start complaining or writing against visiting or staying there.

Aduchamp1

We stayed at the Hotel Tan in the Sultanahmet. It was a few short blocks from the tram and convenient to most sights. It was modern and clean with an accommodating staff.

We usually do not stay in tourist areas but this was a wonderful compromsise.
+++++++
Other, you will have to do recon without me. Next year we might go to Poland for an Indian/Hundu-Polish/Catholic wedding. No kidding.

otherchelebi

Adu, I am glad that you are finally getting married, but why in Poland?

tedgale

May I hijack the thread for one question???

Aduchamp1 and otherchelebi: I too am planning a trip for October. KLM has a 5 day seat sale and we have decided to take advantage of their incredible fare to Istanbul. So many decisions must be made very quickly. We're thinking 5 days in Istanbul.

Otherchelebi's comments about seat removal suggests that his/her recommended non-touristy areas may now be poor choices for places to stay.

I don't want to be overrun by tourists but I'm a complete neophyte, also concerned about safety.

Hotel Tan looks fine and the price is reasonable. Could I hear some further discussion on the pros and cons of this hotel selection/ area selection? Thanks

tedgale

Oh dear: My first post on this topic and I snag a troll right off!

otherchelebi

Ted,

As Adu said, the location of Tan hotel is excellent for sightseeing. Although it is in the tick of the touristic area, october wil not be as crowded.

i would still prefer Cihangir for going out in the evening and mingling with higher quality locals, but with the jet lag and the amount of walking you will probably be doing during your short stay, you will be sound asleep early every evening.

Areas like Cihangir and Nisantasi or the villages alongside the European side of the Bosphorus are where the regular people live.
If you stay in Sultanahmet you will only meet people involved in tourism and conservative islamic types who are not at all representative of the general population of istanbul.

I also strongly believe that once the holy fasting month of ramazan ends earl september, the Mayor of Beyoglu proclaim magnanimously that he has wrested permission from the greater municipality to have the sidewalk seating replaced, and the Fall and Winter evenings and nights will resume their fun and glory after a while. Life will be back to what it was before by October.