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ISCHIA--best base on the island..

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ISCHIA--best base on the island..

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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 07:12 AM
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ISCHIA--best base on the island..

After playing around with various destinations, and receiving thoughtful and generous advice from several posters about several possibilities for a trip this fall (Costa Brava, Gaeta/Sperlonga/Frascati), I have all but decided upon Ischia for a week-long holiday in mid-late September. (There is a possibility that I will meet up with friends and extend the trip to include continue to the Amalfi Coast, but for now, my focus is on the week on Ischia).

I have read the reports here and looked at a couple of guidebooks. We would like to base ourselves in one place that has good swimming (a pool large enough for swimming is a big plus; a beach on site or within an easy walk would be fantastic) and a good range of trattorie/restaurants, and make day trips by bus to various points of interest around the island. We will be coming from the US and will likely fly into Naples and continue by ferry to Ischia.

Sant Angelo looks beautiful but I believe it is a bit inconvenient for touring the island. Forio has a good range of restaurants--how are the nearby beaches?
Ischia Ponte has many lovely looking hotels but is this area overcrowded with daytrippers? (This hotel in that are is #1 on TA:

http://www.hotelaragona.it/


Lacco Ameno?

So I am asking once again, for help in planning our trip. What is the best base and can anyone recommend specific hotels (there are so many that get excellent reviews on TA; this one, for example, looks great for swimming, but it is near Lacco Ameno:
http://www.negombo.it/negombo-hotel.html)

This place,near Forio,looks wonderful, too and,at 50 Euro pp in September, is certainly priced well.

http://www.magnolieischia.com/

I would like to keep the price under 200/220 euro if at all possible.

We will fly home from Naples; the flights will probably depart about 10:30am, if the times have not changed by then. Would it be possible to travel from Ischia to the Naples airport on the morning of the flight or should I plan to spend our last night in Naples?

I am so grateful for all of the advice I received before settling on Ischia, so please bear with me here!!
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 09:39 AM
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You will enjoy Ischia, it's such a lovely place. Sant' Angelo is indeed beautiful, but it's very small and out of the way - much better as a place to spend the day rather than a base for a week. Forio is also good for spending a day and gives easy access to other parts of the island, but it's very busy and filled with tourists.

The hotel you link to, Hotel Aragona, is actually in Porto, not Ischia Ponte. While they may look close on a map - and when you're standing in Porto, you think you could easily walk to Castello d'Aragonese, which is in Ponte - but actually it would be a long walk on a narrow and very busy roadway. It's at least a 10-minute drive from Porto to Ponte, possibly more depending upon traffic. I wouldn't recommend staying in Porto, it's filled with daytrippers and the beaches aren't very clean.

I stayed above Ischia Ponte a couple of years ago at Giardino delle Ninfe e la Fenice and enjoyed the location very much. The room opened onto a small private terrace overlooking the Castello, Vesuvius and the Bay: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56280177.html I was there in late September and the terrace was a lovely place to sit and enjoy a morning cup of coffee, watching the sun rise behind Vesuvius http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56280175.html - or an evening limoncello, watching the moon rise behind Castello http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56280170.html

Breakfasts were ample and good and the people running the hotel were very helpful and kind, they even welcomed us with a bottle of the local wine to enjoy on our terrace. The hotel sits at the end of a small road, in a cul de sac, and there are a couple of other small hotels there also, with outdoor bars where you can get a little 'nightcap', for variety. Across the cul de sac is a path with steps leading down to a small rocky beach.

Actually, we never used the beach, preferring instead to set out each morning and explore a different part of the island, although we returned to the beach at Maronti, near Sant' Angelo, several times. Buses stop frequently right in front of the hotel, which makes it easy to get around the island. One route travels in a clockwise direction and another counter-clockwise around the island, so you just select which bus to take depending upon where you want to go. The buses leaving from Porto are often jammed with daytrippers.

The hotel has its own pool filled from hot mineral springs which was a delight to use. It's refilled several times each day to keep the water hot. The water looks dark and not very inviting at first glance, but that's because of the high iron and mineral content.

It's about a 15-minute walk down the hill to Ischia Ponte, where there are shops and restaurants, overlooked by the Castello: http://jmstudio.fotopic.net/p56231949.html We ate there almost every evening and had some memorable food and wines. There is a small causeway, the 'ponte', leading out to Castello and there are a few small places to eat on that side also. It's an inexpensive taxi ride back up the hill (and down the hill also if you wish).

When you are on Ischia, make sure to visit Lady Walton's garden of La Mortella, which is near Forio. I believe it's open Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays-Sundays. Here are some photos of the garden, as well as a little about the Waltons: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/c814381_1.html

If you haven't been to Procida, you can get there easily from Ischia, about 30 minutes by ferry. It's really worth a visit, a lovely, lovely place, still gritty and down-to-earth and filled with real Italians. Corricella, especially. Parts of the film Il Postino were filmed on the front at Corricella. Here are images to whet your appetite for a daytrip to Procida: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/c1544804.html
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 10:27 AM
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I Spent one week in Ischia February 2008, based at Hotel Terme Cristallo Palace(with swimming pools) on Casamicciola Terme, it's within short bus ride to ischia Port, some ferries go dircetly to Naples from Casamiccola too, qutie convenient for sightseeing,with plenty of simple but good restaurants too.

I deaytripped to Sant Angelo and Forio, Sant Angelo is really lovely with wide expansive beaches, much quieter than Forio. I couldn't say it's inconvenient as there are buses to the port too, it's just more isolated.

Forio has a lovely old town centre and walks along the coast.

Depends on the weather, for express boat, it takes only 50 minute from Ischia to Naples, it isn't really necessaryto stay at Naples the night before departure.
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 11:10 AM
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I meant to comment on getting to the airport from Ischia your last morning. Do consult the ferry tables carefully. I'm not sure how early they run in September. Ferries and aliscafi both land at Molo Beverello. Just across the (very busy, 6-lane) road from the port and up a short distance is Piazza Municipio, where you can catch an airport bus. From the time you leave the ferry, cross the large port/parking area, cross the road and then walk several blocks, trundling your suitcases behind, it will take a good 10-15 minutes. I have done it myself, for an afternoon flight, but as I say, consult the schedules to make sure you can make it on time.

I have also stayed the last night at a hotel overlooking the port in Naples, Hotel Bella Capri. It's funky and small, but I've stayed there half-a-dozen times. Here's a review I wrote: 'This must surely be the best place to stay in Naples! The view out over the harbor and Bay of Naples, with Mt Vesuvius in the distance, is magnificent and endlessly fascinating. We sat on our small terrace, sipping a pre-dinner glass of wine, enjoying all the activity below. There are many restaurants within short distance walk. The traffic from below was noisy during the afternoon, but at night with the windows closed and the air conditioning turned on, it didn't bother our sleep at all. The hotel is actually a pensione on the sixth floor of a large office building, reached by an elevator that takes a 5-Euro coin to make it run during business hours. A short walk from where the Airport Bus stops. The staff were all very welcoming and helpful.'

To watch the sun rise behind Vesuvius and over the port on your final morning makes a perfect ending to a trip: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p24617038.html
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 11:10 AM
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Many many thanks for the detailed responses.

I looked at Cristallo Palace but they require a meal plan so I have to rule it out. And Julia's hotel got some rather poor reviews and might be a bit inconvenient..but I will keep reading..

This hotel, also very well-reviewed, but quite pricey, also seems to be between Porto and Ponte--should I rule it out based on that location?

http://www.ilmoresco.it/test/test_06/eng/start_eng.html

And this one looks to be on a lovely beach, but might be distant from restaurants..

http://www.hotelparcosmeraldo.com/


Vicenzo--While I am typing this I see that you wrote a response and there is another from Julia.. I will look at the one you mention again--but as I remember, the Vitigno is quite isolated...remember that I will be taking the bus around and have to be near a bus stop..and you know I will certainly want to talk about food once I get the hotel settled..

I know I have lots more reading to do..perhaps I am too focused on location. As long as we are not in an overcrowded area like Porto, and are near a beach and a bus stop, does it matter so much about location? Does anyone know how often the buses run and if they run into the evening, so we could travel from place to place for dinner? (I remember reading the trip reports by Caroline_E. who stayed in Sant Angelo and it seemed that that area was lovely but that they were quite cut off at night..I need to go back and re-read her comments..)

Many many thanks! Julia, your photos are staggeringly beautiful! I read your writing about the island (on SlowTrav,I think) and that was one of the factors in making the decision to visit Ischia.
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 11:13 AM
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The elevator actually takes a 5-cent coin, not 5-euro! And the hotel staff provides the coins after the first.
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 11:14 AM
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Maybe I already told you but now I cannot remember. Anyway, IMO, the best place for you, as I read your requirements, is a very cute place in Forio, the Agritourism IL VITIGNO www.agriturismoilvitigno.it .
I am sure that you will enjoy it.
By the way, my strong advice is to spend the last night in Naples, befor eyour departure.
If you need also advices for restaurants in Ischia, I am ready to give you.

Ciao.

Vincenzo
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 11:42 AM
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Oh, Vicenzo that agriturismo looks lovely! But it is up in the hills--without a car?????
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 11:58 AM
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..and then there is this one, but with few reviews that I can find so far:

http://www.puntachiarito.it/indexuk.htm
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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 01:07 PM
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Ok--last hotel, for the moment; this looks like a family-run place with a nice pool close to the center of Forio:


http://www.melodie.it/eng/home.html


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Old Feb 7th, 2009, 03:18 PM
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The hotel at Punta Chiarito looks lovely, but it is near Sant' Angelo, with all the inconvenience of being in a somewhat isolated part of the island, without the convenience of actually being in Sant' Angelo and at least near some shops and restaurants.

Hotel Il Moresco looks lovely and the location between Porto and Ponte isn't necessarily a problem, depending on exactly where it is. Walking from the port in that direction, there are some small streets with many shops and hotels and places to eat. You might try Google Earth and see if you can determine what the surroundings are, whether it's within easy walking distance of bus stops, etc., or if it's on one of the busy roads.
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 12:42 PM
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I just found these two very helpful responses! Panza is the location of the agriturismo recommended by Vicenzo. I hadn't realized that it was an actual town/village. But again, I am wondering about the bus connections. Where would be the nearest place that would have a selection of restaurants? Would there be any in Panza?

I am asking this, because while we would not mind busing around during the day, we might like to be able to walk to eating spots at night if this is possible..

Bella, I think Punta Chiarita might be too inconvenient if we have to walk 15 minutes to get the bus from the hotel I linked above. Or did I misunderstand? I don't mind walking, but I am thinking of the nighttime after dinner--does anyone know how late the buses run?

There seem to be so many good hotels on the island but it is so difficult to imagine the various locations...on the Amalfi coast, I thought that both Amalfi and Cetara would be ideal bases--I was very glad that we did not stay overnight in Positano. With that info, where would you direct me on Ischia? (Ischia Porto will be avoided!)

I will take another look at Il Moresco because of the great reviews, and try to determine a more exact location.

Meanwhile what do you think of this hotel's location?

http://www.melodie.it/eng/home.html

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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 06:01 PM
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Definitely stay in Ischia Ponte.

I believe I recommended the Hotel Mareblu to you before...a great hotel

But if you can live without a pool and want to save a ton of money book a room (if available) at the Hotel Noris:

http://www.norishotel.it/eng/hotel_no.html

It's definitely a no frills place but it's in a great location.
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 06:50 PM
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Jim:
What would be the advantage, for example, of staying in Ponte rather than in the Forio area? Is that area very busy with daytrippers?


The Noris looks lovely--what is the beach like nearest the hotel? Many thanks for taking the time to patiently answer my many questions!
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Old Feb 8th, 2009, 09:23 PM
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I personally would stay in Naples to catch that flight.

The ferry services during non-peak season as I was told by the ticket person sitting in the booth in Naples is irregular and nobody really knows the schedule.

I remember I did wait for a long time walking back and forth before I could board a ferry. The most frustrating part is not knowing how long I had to wait. That was end of March. I think Sept is considered as shouldered season so the ferries might be more frequent but still..

But once I got to my hotel( can't remember the name), all the frustrations were washed away by the thermal water. That stuff is seriously relaxing and addictive.


I also read from some guidebooks taking buses was easy but once I was there it did not seem to be as easy and time-effective. So i asked the receptionist in the hotel to get me a rental car. The rate was v. reasonable. it's good to know that is an option.

I didn't seek out any tourist spots except the beach where the movie "the talented Mr. Ripply was filmed. Was unimpressed.

Apart from that, Ischia was full of charm and had exceeded my expectation.


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Old Feb 9th, 2009, 03:49 AM
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Thanks again!

Here is the other hotel that Jim recommended; it looks lovely; do the rest of you like the location?

http://www.hotelmareblu.it/italiano/index.php#


I would not mind having a rental car but neither of us can drive standard shifts; that is why I am stressing the bus issue..

I will definintely spend the last night in Naples!

Please give me your thoughts about this hotel in Citara, too; website says it is 1km from Forio:

http://www.melodie.it/eng/home.html

Finally,here is the Moresco again; it is not on a busy road--can you all advise on location; I am very confused because it looks as if ferries do not leave from the area marked Porto on the maps--

http://www.ilmoresco.it/test/test_06/eng/start_eng.html


Many thanks to all of you--sorry for the confusion on my part!






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Old Feb 9th, 2009, 08:28 AM
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I admit to having a bias towards Ischia Ponte...my family is from there.

But I think it has a more vibrant night life...if that's to your liking. It just seems more spread out and easier to navigate than the smaller areas.

The beach closest to the Mareblu (right across the street), is ok, but a bit rocky. It is good, however, for lounging about. This is close to the Noris as well. The Noris is around the corner from the Mareblu.

The best beach, in my opinion, is Maronti Beach (Spiaggia dei Maronti). It's on the opposite side of the Island. About one-half hour from Ischia Ponte. Keep in mind that it only takes about an hour to circle the entire island by car or bus. It would be faster if the roads weren't so twisty & narrow in spots.

Make sure you have a rabbit dinner while on the island...it's their specialty.
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Old Feb 9th, 2009, 10:11 AM
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Jim, thanks for getting back to me... Now that you mention food: Food is one of my main interests when I travel. So I want to be convenient to good eating spots-I try to avoid places that are jammed with other tourists, and would go far to find a good local place with regional foods, like the rabbit you mentioned.

We do not care at all about nightlife and would probably in bed before any gets started!

I like the idea of being near a good beach; we are both swimmers and hope to do some paddling around while we are there. I don't want to lay around on a lounge chair for hours, but would like to get a good swim in every day if possible. The rest of the time we would hope to just wander around the island, take some walks, visit at least one of the famous thermal baths (not interested in any treatments, just soaking and looking around.)

So now what do you think---I am guessing you are familiar with the area around the Villa Melodie..(link posted above)


Once I get my hotel settled, I will ask lots of food-related questions, you can be certain!!


Here is one trattoria with rabbit on the menu; I hope to be able to eat here!

http://www.trattoriailfocolare.it/in...sezione=cucina


and here:

http://www.villagiusto.it/ristorante_en.html


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Old Feb 9th, 2009, 10:47 AM
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ekscrunchy-- You're probably beginning to realize that it's difficult to find everything you want in one place on Ischia. You'll have to decide what's most important to you. There's a reason why most hotels offer full-board: because their locations offer beautiful views and large grounds with gorgeous pools, etc., but they aren't convenient for walking to restaurants and shopping areas. And if you do stay in the more built-up centers such as Forio or Casamicciola, you have to put up with crowds of Germans and busy traffic circles.

I agree with Jim in having a bias toward Ischia Ponte. There are some good restaurants and the roads are more comfortable for walking to dinner in the evenings. It's also easy to find a taxi to take you back to your hotel afterwards if you don't want to walk. The beaches along this side of the island aren't great, however. For the best beaches, you really need to go to Maronte, Fumarole, Sorgeto. Citara near Forio is also good, but the public areas are usually very crowded. Maronte was my favorite.

As Jim mentions, it only takes about an hour to circle the whole island, but the buses are often overcrowded - I can remember having a seat only twice on dozens of bus journeys around the island spread over three visits to Ischia, one of them for a week.

The ferries and aliscafi do come and go from Ischia Porto. Here is a photo of the port http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p51942468.html and another http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56323337.html There are two areas of docks at the port. It makes no difference when you arrive, but if you are travelling back to Naples, or over to Procida, make sure to arrive at the correct dock. There are also boats into and out of Casamicciola.



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Old Feb 9th, 2009, 03:00 PM
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We stayed in upper Casamacciola and while our hotel was completely bizarre, I was happy with the location.

Panza is where you can walk down (about 200 stairs!) to the hot springs that bubble out of the cool Mediterranean. I still dream of soaking there...

I agree with bellastarr - don't miss the gardens at la Mortella. We didn't meet Lady Walton, but after we roamed the gardens we attended a concert there; she graciously introduced the wonderful quartet of Irish women who performed chamber music, including works by Sir Walton.

I think it was you, bellastarr, who wrote about the hot springs in Panza; what a great tip!
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