I haven't been yet but my impression is that it would be more like Naples than the cities you mentioned. I picture it as quite gritty, with some beautiful sites but a bit more work to appreciate them haha.

If you ask me, Palermo is of course not as beautiful as Rome,Venice Florence, but it is FAR MORE beautiful than Turin or Milan or Genoa.
It's a big city (700.000 inhabitants) , the sixth biggest city in Italy after Rome,Milan ,Naples ,Turin and Genoa.
It is noisy and it has some tough neighborhoods.
Nevertheless, the historic center is gorgeous.
The Opera House Teatro Massimo is awesome. Whereas Milan's La Scala is beautiful only inside and is rather nondescript outside, Palermo's Teatro Massimo is absolutely stunning and gorgeous from the outside.
Palermo's cathedral is also beautiful.
Just outside Palermo there is another Cathedral: the Monreale Cathedral(you can get there by bus) (. Inside, it is so rich of art and beauty that it is second to none in Italy (maybe only St Peter)
In the city center there is also a park of thousand-years-old trees.
If you go there in summer/ spring, you can easily reach Lo Zingaro from Palermo ( less than a hour by car) , which is a gorgeous protected nature park, where you walk on a hill with a breathtaking view of the sea and you can stop at different beatiful bays where the sea is as clean and beautiful as hardly anywhere else in Sicily.
Near to Palermo there is also Scopello ( an other beautiful area on the sea with cliffs and gravels, and a crystal-like sea)
The town Trapani ( alas much overshadowed) can also be reached as a day trip from Palermo. It is a beautiful town with lots of nice Churches. From Trapani you can take a ferry to the beautiful isle of Favignana (it's an unspoiled isle with beautiful see). From Palermo you can also easily reach Erice, as a day trip. Erice is a small medioeval village on a hill, and it can be visited only on foot. No cars are allowed. In Erice there is an important scientific observatory,which can also be visited.
In Palermo you are also more likely to taste the best Cannoli ever,as this famous Sicilian sweet is in fact a Palermitan sweet.

Jamikins, I have never been to Naples, but it is notoriously a beautiful city . So, I don't get your point

I didn't think it was beautiful in the way Rome, Florence, Venice and many other Italian cities are, but it had some beautiful things (mentioned by feda) and an interesting 'vibe'. I would not have wanted to visit Sicily without spending a couple days there. I am also glad though, that I did just that and then moved on to the rest of Sicily. Here are my photos, judge for yourself: http://www.pbase.com/annforcier/sicily_2005

Isabel, what beautiful pictures of Palermo and Sicily! I want to go.

No I don't consider Palermo to be beautiful in the way that Rome is but it was still a highlight on our 1 week trip to Sicily. I liked the "grittier" feeling-we walked by some ruined buildings that had still not been rebuilt since WWII destruction. That was the kind of gritty we felt, not dirty. We found the people in palermo to be like Italians everywhere-among the friendliest and most welcoming to visitors. Monreale was not initially on our itinerary because I didn't think we'd have time but the cabdriver we had hired to take us to the Capuchin crypts (had a teenage boy with us...), insisted that it was not to be missed and he was right. It was incredible. We had another great cabbie experience the next day when we hired a cab to take us to our car rental. We had intended to drive to corleone to trace family roots. He convinced us that we'd be better off if he drove the "difficult" roads there and back and then we could get our car at the end of the day to travel to Trapani. It was the best money we spent-the women in the city office did not speak English and with our little Italian helped greatly by our cabbie, I was able to find ny grandfathers birth certificate as well as the marriage record of his parents. We then walked to the house where he was born. It was an unexpected unforgettable moment.

Bottom line, if we go to Sicily again, we will not hesitate to stay in Palermo another few nights. It was not the most beautiful, but it was among the most fascinating!

It is relative-how much time do you have?
We had 15 days in Sicily and enjoyed our 3 days in Palermo.

We spent 3 days in Palermo (on a 10-day Sicily trip) and absolutely loved it. We've been to Naples and my opinion is that Palermo is more beautiful. In addition to beautiful sections it is very interesting, the food is wonderful, the nearby sights are great - Don't miss Monreale!

Palermo was one of the many wonderful places we visited in Sicily and, IMHO, shouldn't be missed. As for Stromboli, I'm not sure how many visitors make it there but I am sure it is great, too.

Are you asking if Palermo is beautiful or if it is a Sicilian highlight? These are 2 different descriptions and you must decide what you're looking for.

I would not describe it as a beautiful city although there are beautiful parts and some lovely architecture. There are interesting and beautiful sights.

Nothing compares with Venice for beauty. Palermo is as beautiful as Florence or Rome but older looking and beautiful in a different way. It is also very clean.

Your thread title asked if Palermo is a Sicilian highlight. My answer is YES, YES, YES. It was my favorite town on Sicily. It's a place where Sicilians not only work but they also live there. Many large cities have a commuting workforce but not in Palermo. Perhaps because it's still affordable for a working class population.

Here are some of the things I loved about Palermo:

- Puppet show - I thought this would be a dumb thing to do but it was wonderful. It brings back the child in you.
- Palazzo Abatelis - someone in our group asked a local guide what is the one thing she would recommend to see in Palermo and she suggested this art museum. It was fabulous.
- Wonderful food, especially pizza (which I normally do not eat at home).
- Monreale - that exquisite mosaic church.
- Oratorios - I can't remember which one we saw but it was wonderful.
- The friendly people.
- The big market.

The cathedral and the opera house were disappointments. Other than that I, wish I had more than 4 days there.

Here are some photos.

http://modigliani.shutterfly.com/sicily2011

Feda - my point is that it is not as overtly pretty as say Rome or Venice where the gorgeous sites almost hit you in the face. My hunch is that it is more like Naples, which has its own charm and splendour, but one needs to embrace some grittiness to see the beauty.

Ps - I have not heard Naples is notoriously beautiful...I've heard it as notorious or some other things, but never for its beauty. We re going for Easter so I look forward to experiencing this beauty...

Old-world Italian cities like Palermo and Naples are few and far between - when I first started going to Italy decades ago many cities look like Naples and Palermo do today - narrow lanes with laundry strung in between buildings and yes not all spic and span clean but romantic.

That said is Palermo a must in Sicily - well after staying a few days there I would say no - not a must but a very different type place that is maligned IMO much more than it should be.

isabel,

Your photos are absolutely gorgeous! You have a great "eye".

Thanks for sharing these. I'm visiting Sicily for 3 weeks next spring and just cannot wait!

adrianne, I plan to enjoy yours this evening.

Grazie!

Our time in Palermo was unfortunately limited, but from what I saw, I would definitely go back, hoping that the archeological museum would not be closed for renovation.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/sets/72157624349637005/show/with/4785142934/

Sicily became one of our favorite places we have visited, but not because of Palermo. It was the antiquties, landscape, the food, and the people.

The architecture in Palermo encompasses the different eras of its past, Arab, Norman, Roman, Byzantine, making it very unique. Add palm trees to the mix, the very interesting street markets, the palazzos along the waterfront, it is beautiful.
It also has its gritty side. When you get off in the side streets close to the train station, not so beautiful, but authentic and interesting.

We loved it and are glad we didn't miss Palermo.
Michael mentions that the Archaeological Museum was closed, and apparently is through to the end of this year. It really needed to be renovated, but has some interesting and worthwhile exhibits, least of which are decorative pieces from the temple in Selinunte.

The answer to your question depends a lot on what you like and don't like when you travel. Some people actually don't like Rome, because they feel it is dirty, so to each his own....
Here are a few additional pics of things that others above have not covered:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lwkyq9jzdi3otgu/8kWI9MNhA5

and yes she was the lucky bag, squeezing between our car and a bus, haha.

As others have said, parts are beautiful and parts are not. I thought it more similar to Naples than the other places you mention, although without the magnificent setting of the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius, and I liked it's gritty, dynamic, authentic feel.

It was also a highlight for me - and I agree that being a highlight is different than being beautiful. There are some stunning buildings, a couple of good museums, and wonderful foods. And Monreale is, for me, a travel highlight, not just a highlight of Sicily.

Among Isabel's photos are some great shots of the Greek temple at Segesta, which is a 45-minute bus ride from Palermo and many wonderful photos of Cefalu, which is a 45-minute train trip from Palermo and the train runs frequently (at least hourly).

With regard to the oratorios, we also enjoyed them very much. Giacomo Serpotta was the sculptor and the sculptures in these oratorios are so lifelike and appealing, including the mischievous cherubs.
https://www.google.com/search?q=giacomo+serpotta+oratorios+palermo&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=pb1&tbo=u&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=tMu6UNPYEY3-8ASzwoDwDQ&ved=0CDoQsAQ&biw=1070&bih=485

We also like the Piazza Marina with the centuries-old monumental trees and a modest monument to a remarkable NYC policeman, Joe Petrosino, the first Italian to serve on the force: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Petrosino This piazza is very close to the waterfront.

I loved Palermo!!! (That's three exclamation points, so you know I really mean it.) I thought it was tatty-gorgeous and full of interesting things to do, see, and eat. Isabel and adrienne made great points upthread. I would add that many places in Sicily (not just Palermo) are not as polished and tourist-pretty as cities/towns/villages on mainland Italy. Sicily is different--and spectacular.

Here is some detailed information, including photos, about the sculptures by Serpotta which some readers might enjoy: http://www.bluffton.edu/~sullivanm/italy/palermo/serpottacita/serpottacita.html

I love that word "tatty-gorgeous". Perfect way to describe the city.

I would make Monreale a "must" in Sicily. We based in Palermo for a couple of nights and visited Agrigento and Mondello by bus from there. The Duomo and the Cappella Palatino (sp??) were gorgeous.

According to the taxi driver we adopted, the big market is slowing losing ground to the supermercatos. Our trip was in 2005 FWIW.

I'm with Leely2 - absolutely loved Palermo!!! A definite highlight of my three weeks on Sicily.

I've been to Palermo many times and beauty does not begin to explain this city, I have been to many places that are not on any travel itineraries, I don't follow them, I like to explore places where not many tourists visit. There are many such places in Palermo. Just to give you an example, right outside Palermo is a place called "Baida" which I wouldn't even classify as a little town, it is very unassuming and tranquil and the view from there is absolutely stunning. Then there is Montepellegrino, where there is Santa Rosalia's sanctuary, but also a modern castle which have the greatest view of the city (Castello Utveggio) which is also used for hosting foreign dignitaries. a few miles outside the city there is Bagheria, which was used by the rich for their summer retreat, it famous for its beautiful villas, then there is Aspra a small fishing town near Bagheria, which is absolutely gorgeous, a few miles away is Porticello, which is where most of the local fish comes from, but if you want to get the ultimate view of Palermo, there is Monte Cuccio, which is a mountain peak on the southern edge of Palermo (3444 feet high) which can be reached by car to a certain height, but the final portion can only be reached on foot, but it is worth the hike, you should see it during the winter, when the top portion of the mountain is covered in snow, I could go on forever. So if you really want to enjoy Palermo, find a local guide and you will have the time of your life. If you want someone to show you around, I even have a contact who speaks fluent English (grew up in New York City) and knows his way around. So if you're thinking of touring Palermo, go where everyone else goes or go where tourists never visit and See the real Palermo.

Jamikins : ok, I see your point know. As I said, I've never been there myself so I can't really say... let us know about it when you are back from Naples...

To me, Palermo is like Italy 30 years or more ago - unsanitised and full of life. The markets are fascinating, the food is wonderful, and you won't be cheek by jowl with other tourists when visiting places of interest. If you watch old Italian films, you will get an idea.

Not sure I'd call it a "highlight," but one of my most unforgettable travel experiences anywhere, not just in Palermo, wasa visit to the Catacombe dei Cappuccini!

bmk - I'm still hoping to get to Sicily in the spring.

God help.

I need the truth about Palermo.

We are going to Sicily in May and I do not want the same performance as last time in Siracusa which ranged from the greatest days of our lives to horror shows.

We turned round at the city limits of Catania just too scary.

As so many have already posted Palermo is a must if you go to Sicily. I was going to skip Palermo and I am so Glad that I did not. The food was some of the best I have ever had, the people were friendly and the history amazing! We went in Spring and the weather was great. You will not be wowed as you may be in Rome but it is a wonderful city to experience.

Agree with Tarquin, we loved the unscrubbed look of Palermo. Loved Siracusa, as well.

Dickie_G what was it scared you so much in Siracusa?

The driving, the uncontrolled building, the oddities of Sicilian behaviour.

Mainly the driving.

I have a feeling that Palermo may well be more of the same.

I think we will hunker down in Modica.

Dickie - what i've read here and elsewhere suggests that in order to preserve one's sanity, one should use public transport in Palermo, only hiring a car when one is about to leave.

thanks for the tip about Syracuse.

Dickie, Siracusa is almost, but not quite, tied with Palermo for my favorite highlight of Sicily! And Catania is up there at the top too! I would enthusiastically return to any or all of them as soon as the chance presented itself!

If Siracusa and Catania aren't to your taste, then Palermo probably won't be either. Perhaps you should seek out quieter places and "hunker down," as you say.

Right. If you couldn't handle Siracusa, I think it's safe to say that Palermo wouldn't be your kind of place.

I drove into Siracusa and onto Ortygia. Didn't find that a hassle in the least. But we all have different tolerance levels and different preferences, so I say go where you are likely to have a good time.

Enjoy Sicily.

In my personal opinion of several trips to Sicily-Ortigia and Siracusa are heaven on earth.
Ortigia is what Italy was like 40 years ago before the tourists ruined Tuscany!
Palmermo is big and dirty and not a good representation of the wonderful Sicilian culture and lifestyle.
Love Marsala and Trapani too!

Ortigia is what Italy was like 40 years ago before the tourists ruined Tuscany!

I had the opposite impression. Ortigia and Taormina were the closest to touristic Tuscany.

No one would suggest that you DRIVE in Palermo, for heaven's sake! Take the bus.

>>Palermo is as beautiful as Florence or Rome but older looking and beautiful in a different way. It is also very clean.<<

I don't agree with a single word of this. Palermo is fascinating and I am glad I've been, but it isn't beautiful or clean. One of my abiding memories is the relentless traffic. Made it hard to even walk down a side street without getting run over.

I'm happy to have seen it, but I'm in no rush to go back. My partner hated it.

Well none of this has made things any clearer for me.

Still, Easyjet are doing flights with a two day stop over in Milan, to Catania, for 89 quid return.

At that price, quite frankly I don't give a damn whether Palermo is clean or not.

Driving in Palermo may be off the agenda by all accounts.

Don't skip Catania--great fish market and restaurants.

Still, Easyjet are doing flights with a two day stop over in Milan, to Catania, for 89 quid return. >>

is that one single flight with a stop-over in milan or something you've worked out yourself? where are you flying from?

i only ask because i'm trying to concoct a trip to Sicily from Bristol, and as there are no direct flights we'd have to fly via Rome [or milan or?]. I can't work out how we could get from Bristol to Sicily in a day so am looking at laying over somewhere, or even doing something like Bristol - Pisa drive to Rome - Palermo - tour sicily - Catania - naples - drive to Rome - Bristol.

the Pisa - Rome and Naples - Rome sectors might take a few days each.

how did you come up with the Milan option?

annhig,

according to www.skyscanner.com Brussels Airlines flies from Bristol to Palermo.