Croesus

In Hürriyet there's an article - Kurdish peace bid allows for rediscovery of prehistorical paintings in Hakkari - http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/kur...&NewsCatID=375

And I see this Russian guy, Ivan, has recently gone by motorbike to Hakkari and then the D400 near the border with Iraq and Syria - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1018740
He said "Gendarmes sometimes check local cars.
Near the border with Iraq, checked my passport.
PS. were very kind, drink tea, showed the Russian machine guns and AK
Along the border with Syria gendarmes no, there freeway."

The UK Foreign Office has the region as "advise against all but essential travel" - https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/turkey

I fancy going to see the rock art at Trişin Yaylası, probably motorbike, maybe June next year. And I'm thinking that it looks pretty OK to do this. It's only 200km from Van city to Hakkari. I guess there are not many hotels around.

otherchelebi

Croesus, The Kurdishguerilla group (commonly accepted as a terrorist group by Turkish, United states and many European governments) has strong presence in the region you wish to travel.

The turkish government has been in the process of rapprochement with the kurds and PKK but the political leaders have also been attacking them in public speeches. PKK declared that any deals will be off if Kobane falls to ISIL.

In the meantime there have been frequent attacks against Turkish security forces. The latest was yesterday with three soldiers killed.

The rumor is that the PKK controls most of the routes between towns in the Southeast and they have check-points. So far, no tourist or foreigner has been hurt or kidnapped.

However, that is still a possibility especially if you chance across a group of ISIS masquerading as PKK. I suspect that some of the violence in the region is due to Islamist who may be ISIS members, supporters or sympathizers.

I would not go at this stage and in the near future, but 2015 Summer is a long time away and this is the Middle East where too much can change in too little time or where nothing may change in centuries.

So get a refundable ticket, plan, wait, check the situation and see.

It is also a good idea to get in touch with Turkish travel, motorbike, adventure groups from the internet and especially Hakkari NGOs

Good luck.

otherchelebi

Another point you may consider is that a Russian or Georgian traveler may have some significant advantages in the region over possibly an American, British, German, French, Belgian, Duthch, Danish one.

Croesus

Thanks, OC. I'm not sure exactly where the rock art is. The article says Hakkari province but my IGN map has Trişin Yaylası marked in Van province, somewhere around here - https://goo.gl/maps/Ybvrf

I'll have to find out where it is. It looks like it could be done as a day trip from Van.

Croesus

Yes, re Russian, I was thinking that also.

Croesus

I see Şanlıurfa Province is being advertised as a tourist destination when my (UK) government advises that it's off limits.

I wonder which tourists they are aiming at.

Ancient city set for tourism boost with new road...
http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/anc...&NewsCatID=375

And here's the Şanlıurfa tourism office brochure/map - http://www.urfakultur.gov.tr/Eklenti...fas-maps-1.pdf

otherchelebi

Croesus, Urfa is smack in the middle of all the nasty stuff. Yet, it has managed to stay clear of the PKK and government attacks.

However, the roads to places like Harran, Halfeti, etc. are very risky, due to large military presence which is frequently targeted by the PKK.

If you fly to Urfa you can do it in reasonable safety :

1. Do not go further than Gobeklitepe. outside Urfa city.

2. Stay away from all military and police presence, buildings, vehicles, check-points, etc.

3. Stay away from protests and political rallies, political speeches.

4. There are enough sites within the city to keep you busy for 2-3 days.

5. I prefer the Urfa Lahmacun to the Gaziantep or Hatay ones.

6. Urfa is not a city for vegetarians but their salads, cheeses and kebabs are quite good.

Please do not attempt to fly to Adana, Gaziantep, Van, Mardin and ride to Urfa, or ride anywhere within the region. You may not be targeted by the PKK but you may be arrested by the police or become target of a stray bomb, mine, cannon ball, rocket or bullet.


A major district of Hakkari has been under military bombardment for four months and a 24 hour curfew is still in effect although the government announced that the area has been cleared of PKK and most of the population.

Current official figures for the Southeast including Mardin, Yuksekova, Hakkari, Sirnak, Diyarbakir, Cizre and similar areas is 335,000 refugees leaving their homes, 400 civilians killed, 2,000 PKK militants killed, 200 police and military killed 180,000 children have no schools or teachers. The real figures is anyone's guess. Possibly 800,000 have their homes and businesses totally destroyed, but most are trying to survive with relatives, friends and those with charity in the areas which are not bombed by the military.

Croesus

Thanks for the advice, OC. Especially re riding to Urfa, rather than using other transport.

I was wondering where to go after Ankara during Ramazan. I think I'll make it up as I go along, as usual. Lots of sites on my to-do list, so I don't really need to risk the south-east.

I quite fancy following the Kara Su/Western Euphrates to its source, and do the Taş Yolu at Kemaliye. And one of the ferries across the river (although Tunceli Province is on the amber list, I might just risk the south-west corner of it):
http://www.pertek.bel.tr/index.php/f...-saatleri-2014
http://cemisgezek.bel.tr/Hbr-50-FERI...UZENLENDI.html

I like the idea of having a Euphrates themed trip. I did a bit of research into it when someone enquired on the LP forum. I think the source of the Murat is a little too far to go (Urartu would have to be a trip for another time, but maybe Altıntepe at Erzincan would be feasible).

Then try not to rush too much back to Bodrum!