Iregeo's Paris Trip Report (3/29 - 4/7)
Apr 8th, 2004, 10:00 AM
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Iregeo's Paris Trip Report (3/29 - 4/7)
Bonjour Fodorites! I just returned from Paris last evening and am so eager to share with you all, who have shared so much with me. Special thanks to mediterraneo for the incredible wine treatise, Ira for the hotel recommendation, Underhill, francofile and, expecially St. Cirq for the overall education!
3/29 - (Mon.) I flew free on United airline miles, so I did not have a direct flight. They booked me on Lufthansa from LAX to Frankfurt, which is a 10.5 hour flight! The flight left 1 hour late, which was no problem other than that I missed my connection in Frankfurt! Oh well, worrying about it did no good and, after all, I was on vacation! Also, they booked me on the very next Lufthansa flight to Paris, a 40 minute flight, so it caused no problem at all.
Both flights were quite pleasant, except for the baby that cried, for 10.5 hours! I didn't think it was possible, but it was! I was very happy with my isle seat, so I could bounce around as needed. I had some "No Jet Lag" tablets that I was afraid to use, not having taken them before, and chose instead 2 Tylenol PM tablets, which worked very well. I slept 5 or 6 hours, with no groginess (is that a word?) when I awoke.
On arrival in Paris (Tues., 3/30), I chose to take the RER train (the "B" train) from CDG to Paris, and transfer at Saint Michel/Notre Dame to the Metro. This is easy and cheap (7.80 E), but I recommend that you have some change with you to purchase a ticket from a machine. You can "converse" with the machine in English, but it would not accept Visa, or paper money(Euros). Since there is also no change machine, I was forced to stand in a long line to purchase my ticket. My problem arose in the city, when, in the Metro stations, I was forced to negotiate way too many steps with my luggage. Lesson learned - next time, bring lighter luggage or take taxi or shuttle!
I met my sister-in-law, who flew direct from Dulles, at our Hotel, the Hotel Bonaparte, 61 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris
Tel. (33) 01 43 26 97 37
Fax (33) 01 46 33 57 67
This is a small 2 star hotel, with only 29 rooms. Rooms range in price from 91E for a single to 157E for a triple, continental breakfast included. We paid 146E for one room with 2 twin beds, room 27, on the 6th floor.
On balance, this is a great hotel. The location is TOPS, IMHO, as is the service and staff. They were acccomodating, helpful with making reservations and cheerful. The breakfast room is also pretty, quaint and very French! Due to its location in the 6th eme. (at the corner of rue Bonaparte and
3/29 - (Mon.) I flew free on United airline miles, so I did not have a direct flight. They booked me on Lufthansa from LAX to Frankfurt, which is a 10.5 hour flight! The flight left 1 hour late, which was no problem other than that I missed my connection in Frankfurt! Oh well, worrying about it did no good and, after all, I was on vacation! Also, they booked me on the very next Lufthansa flight to Paris, a 40 minute flight, so it caused no problem at all.
Both flights were quite pleasant, except for the baby that cried, for 10.5 hours! I didn't think it was possible, but it was! I was very happy with my isle seat, so I could bounce around as needed. I had some "No Jet Lag" tablets that I was afraid to use, not having taken them before, and chose instead 2 Tylenol PM tablets, which worked very well. I slept 5 or 6 hours, with no groginess (is that a word?) when I awoke.
On arrival in Paris (Tues., 3/30), I chose to take the RER train (the "B" train) from CDG to Paris, and transfer at Saint Michel/Notre Dame to the Metro. This is easy and cheap (7.80 E), but I recommend that you have some change with you to purchase a ticket from a machine. You can "converse" with the machine in English, but it would not accept Visa, or paper money(Euros). Since there is also no change machine, I was forced to stand in a long line to purchase my ticket. My problem arose in the city, when, in the Metro stations, I was forced to negotiate way too many steps with my luggage. Lesson learned - next time, bring lighter luggage or take taxi or shuttle!
I met my sister-in-law, who flew direct from Dulles, at our Hotel, the Hotel Bonaparte, 61 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris
Tel. (33) 01 43 26 97 37
Fax (33) 01 46 33 57 67
This is a small 2 star hotel, with only 29 rooms. Rooms range in price from 91E for a single to 157E for a triple, continental breakfast included. We paid 146E for one room with 2 twin beds, room 27, on the 6th floor.
On balance, this is a great hotel. The location is TOPS, IMHO, as is the service and staff. They were acccomodating, helpful with making reservations and cheerful. The breakfast room is also pretty, quaint and very French! Due to its location in the 6th eme. (at the corner of rue Bonaparte and
Apr 8th, 2004, 10:25 AM
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Iregeo I learned the suit case lesson last Oct. when I lugged a 25" up and down multiple stairs while making 3 metro transfers to visit a friend in Oberkampt.Phew!! I thought I would have a heart attack at 35! 
Apr 8th, 2004, 10:26 AM
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WOOPS! WRONG BUTTON!
Anyway, the hotel is at the corner of rue Bonaparte and rue St. Sulpice, in an area of GREAT shopping and dining. I couldn't have been happier with the location. Also, close to 3 metro stations(St. Sulpice, St. Germain des Pres and Mabillon).
The room itself was adequate. No real amenities (after all, it was only 2 stars), but very clean. The beds were just ok -- since they were 2 twins, I felt as though we had "the kids' room". I did see, during the course of our trip, that there were other rooms with nicer decor. Anyway, we, as many do, only stayed in the room to sleep and shower, so it served our purpose well. AND, DIRCTLY ACROSS THE STREET (72 rue Bonaparte) IS AN AWESOME BAKERY, PIERRE HERME, WHICH IS NOT TO BE MISSED! I did, however, miss the ability to keep up with world events, as even though there was a tv, there was no cable to get CNN International.
First night, we walked the 6th, taking in the sights and pace of Paris. I had my first pastis at the Cafe Palette, it seemed, with the rest of Paris!
I had chosen and purchased a Zagat's as my dining guide. Since we were tired from our travels, we chose to stay "close to home", and ate our first meal at Le Christine, 1 rue Christine, across the street from La Rotisserie d'en Face. It is a pretty room, but the food was only o.k. I had foie gras and lamb, s-i-l had onion soup and veal, we shared a lovely bottle of bordeaux and dessert for 106E.
I'm taking a break now, but will continue and, I promise, will pick up the pace. It really was a fantastic trip!
Anyway, the hotel is at the corner of rue Bonaparte and rue St. Sulpice, in an area of GREAT shopping and dining. I couldn't have been happier with the location. Also, close to 3 metro stations(St. Sulpice, St. Germain des Pres and Mabillon).
The room itself was adequate. No real amenities (after all, it was only 2 stars), but very clean. The beds were just ok -- since they were 2 twins, I felt as though we had "the kids' room". I did see, during the course of our trip, that there were other rooms with nicer decor. Anyway, we, as many do, only stayed in the room to sleep and shower, so it served our purpose well. AND, DIRCTLY ACROSS THE STREET (72 rue Bonaparte) IS AN AWESOME BAKERY, PIERRE HERME, WHICH IS NOT TO BE MISSED! I did, however, miss the ability to keep up with world events, as even though there was a tv, there was no cable to get CNN International.
First night, we walked the 6th, taking in the sights and pace of Paris. I had my first pastis at the Cafe Palette, it seemed, with the rest of Paris!
I had chosen and purchased a Zagat's as my dining guide. Since we were tired from our travels, we chose to stay "close to home", and ate our first meal at Le Christine, 1 rue Christine, across the street from La Rotisserie d'en Face. It is a pretty room, but the food was only o.k. I had foie gras and lamb, s-i-l had onion soup and veal, we shared a lovely bottle of bordeaux and dessert for 106E.
I'm taking a break now, but will continue and, I promise, will pick up the pace. It really was a fantastic trip!
Apr 8th, 2004, 12:04 PM
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I'm so jealous. I just got back from vacation and I wish I had gone to Paris instead!!! Do you think they'll fire me if I take another one in May? or June? September should be okay, right?
It's an addiction, I tell ya!
It's an addiction, I tell ya!
Apr 8th, 2004, 01:02 PM
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Thanks for your enthusiasm and encouragement! Some general observations before I return to my report --
1. Parisian dogs are the most well behaved canines in the world!! Everyone has them, and walks them, mostly without leashes! None run wild, and none bark! Of course, they're welcome in cafes and restaurants and cause no fuss at all. I must learn their secret and transform my 2 beasts into fine Parisian pups!
2. The weather was delightful! Mind you, I was coming from 90+ degrees in L.A. It was primarily in the low to mid 50's, with mixed sunshine and clouds, with a few small sprinkles. Evenings were crisp, in the 40's. Beautiful sightseeing/walking weather.
3. Parisians are not as friendly as Italians, but are lovely, interesting people who differentiate between Americans and American government. I happen to support the American government, and had no trouble whatsoever.
4. Paris is simple to negotiate, with a fine, user friendly public transportation system.
5. Parisian parks/places are among the most beautiful in the world!
Back to my report --
Day 1
Metro'd and trained to Le Tour Eiffel where we first walked by the Seine. That view, and you know you're in Paris! We chose not to go up, but instead admired the view from park benches in the Champ de Mars. Everything is in first bloom, but unfortunately many of the gardens are not yet planted. From there, we walked past the Ecole Militaire and on to Les Invalides. Wow! the golden dome is positively grand! We then explored the 7th eme., doing some window shopping and people and puppy watching!
After an espresso break, it was again time to eat. Based on recommendations here, in addition to good reviews in Zagats, we headed off to La Cigale, WHICH IS NOW RENAMED RESTAURANT LA CIGALE RECAMIER AND MOVED FROM RUE CHOMEL TO 4 RUE RECAMIER - 75007.
Wow, is this restaurant worthwhile. I had a smoked salmon and dill souffle with green salad with walnuts, my s-i-l had a gorgonzola and bacon souffle with green salad, and we shared a grand marnier souffle for dessert, for 56E. It was an amazing meal in a beautiful, though contemporary setting, with good service.
More window shopping, a short rest at the hotel, and we were off for what proved to be a magical evening. First, we took a but to ile de la Cite, where we found Ma Salle a Manger, a tiny wine bar tucked into 26 Place Dauphine. In addition to a few lovely glasses of wine and cheese, we enjoyed meeting and chatting with the proprietors, and of course, their dog!
Then, it was off to Saint Chappelle for a Vivaldi concert - Les Quarte Saisons. This was pure magic - between the music (my favorite), the setting, the stained glass -- I had a religious experience! Getting lost walking home in the rain was a perfect end to a perfect first Parisian day!
More to come...
1. Parisian dogs are the most well behaved canines in the world!! Everyone has them, and walks them, mostly without leashes! None run wild, and none bark! Of course, they're welcome in cafes and restaurants and cause no fuss at all. I must learn their secret and transform my 2 beasts into fine Parisian pups!
2. The weather was delightful! Mind you, I was coming from 90+ degrees in L.A. It was primarily in the low to mid 50's, with mixed sunshine and clouds, with a few small sprinkles. Evenings were crisp, in the 40's. Beautiful sightseeing/walking weather.
3. Parisians are not as friendly as Italians, but are lovely, interesting people who differentiate between Americans and American government. I happen to support the American government, and had no trouble whatsoever.
4. Paris is simple to negotiate, with a fine, user friendly public transportation system.
5. Parisian parks/places are among the most beautiful in the world!
Back to my report --
Day 1
Metro'd and trained to Le Tour Eiffel where we first walked by the Seine. That view, and you know you're in Paris! We chose not to go up, but instead admired the view from park benches in the Champ de Mars. Everything is in first bloom, but unfortunately many of the gardens are not yet planted. From there, we walked past the Ecole Militaire and on to Les Invalides. Wow! the golden dome is positively grand! We then explored the 7th eme., doing some window shopping and people and puppy watching!
After an espresso break, it was again time to eat. Based on recommendations here, in addition to good reviews in Zagats, we headed off to La Cigale, WHICH IS NOW RENAMED RESTAURANT LA CIGALE RECAMIER AND MOVED FROM RUE CHOMEL TO 4 RUE RECAMIER - 75007.
Wow, is this restaurant worthwhile. I had a smoked salmon and dill souffle with green salad with walnuts, my s-i-l had a gorgonzola and bacon souffle with green salad, and we shared a grand marnier souffle for dessert, for 56E. It was an amazing meal in a beautiful, though contemporary setting, with good service.
More window shopping, a short rest at the hotel, and we were off for what proved to be a magical evening. First, we took a but to ile de la Cite, where we found Ma Salle a Manger, a tiny wine bar tucked into 26 Place Dauphine. In addition to a few lovely glasses of wine and cheese, we enjoyed meeting and chatting with the proprietors, and of course, their dog!
Then, it was off to Saint Chappelle for a Vivaldi concert - Les Quarte Saisons. This was pure magic - between the music (my favorite), the setting, the stained glass -- I had a religious experience! Getting lost walking home in the rain was a perfect end to a perfect first Parisian day!
More to come...
Apr 8th, 2004, 04:37 PM
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Day 2
This was our day to explore Le Quartier Latin. On our way, we stopped in at the Eglise de St. Sulpice, to admire the church and its enormous organ (no jokes, please!) From there, we walked to and through the Luxembourg gardens, one of my favorite spots. This was why I came to Paris! We spent time simply sitting on a bench, letting the sun warm our faces, while children played,runners ran, lovers kissed and old men and women rested. It was so full of life.
On to the Latin Quarter, which, it turns out, is not one of my favorites. We saw the Pantheon, Le Sorbonne, St. Severin and walked the narrow streets ending at an outdoor market. We had lunch (me, escargot and wine, of course) at a non-descript cafe called Le Village Ronsard. Then, we walked along the Quai St. Michel and on to Notre Dame. As beautiful as ever, and even more so from the view along the back, where you can really appreciate all those flying buttresses!
After another short rest at the hotel (I think we had walked 10 miles each day!), it was time again to eat! Based on recommendations here, as well as Zagat's, we chose another winner -- Le Clos des Gourmets, 16 ave. Rapp, 75007 Paris. We made reservations that morning and were glad we had, as they were filled to the brim. We started with champagne, then foie gras, coquille st. jacques, fromage and a really good sancerre. Dinner for 2, our most expensive of the trip, only 133E. Here, we also met 3 nice gentlemen from the table next to us(2 Canadians and a Parisian), and had some lively conversation, including political conversation. The service was excellent and I recommend the restaurant highly. Metro'd back to the hotel for some well deserved rest!
This was our day to explore Le Quartier Latin. On our way, we stopped in at the Eglise de St. Sulpice, to admire the church and its enormous organ (no jokes, please!) From there, we walked to and through the Luxembourg gardens, one of my favorite spots. This was why I came to Paris! We spent time simply sitting on a bench, letting the sun warm our faces, while children played,runners ran, lovers kissed and old men and women rested. It was so full of life.
On to the Latin Quarter, which, it turns out, is not one of my favorites. We saw the Pantheon, Le Sorbonne, St. Severin and walked the narrow streets ending at an outdoor market. We had lunch (me, escargot and wine, of course) at a non-descript cafe called Le Village Ronsard. Then, we walked along the Quai St. Michel and on to Notre Dame. As beautiful as ever, and even more so from the view along the back, where you can really appreciate all those flying buttresses!
After another short rest at the hotel (I think we had walked 10 miles each day!), it was time again to eat! Based on recommendations here, as well as Zagat's, we chose another winner -- Le Clos des Gourmets, 16 ave. Rapp, 75007 Paris. We made reservations that morning and were glad we had, as they were filled to the brim. We started with champagne, then foie gras, coquille st. jacques, fromage and a really good sancerre. Dinner for 2, our most expensive of the trip, only 133E. Here, we also met 3 nice gentlemen from the table next to us(2 Canadians and a Parisian), and had some lively conversation, including political conversation. The service was excellent and I recommend the restaurant highly. Metro'd back to the hotel for some well deserved rest!
Apr 8th, 2004, 05:09 PM
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Great report. We were there at the same time (although it will probably take me eons to post a report), same weather.
I've actually eaten at Le Village Ronsard. It certainly is nondescript, both in ambience and food, although the creme brulee is one of the best I've had in Paris. Go figure.
Apr 8th, 2004, 05:19 PM
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Oh, between this and just finishing The Da Vinci Code last night, now I want to go back to Paris (although the book also has me wanting to visit Rosslyn Chapel, and Scotland is next up on our vacation schedule; just 2 1/2 months to go..).
Luxembourg Gardens is one of my favorite spots in Paris as well. I've always tried to spend a little time there, even when I was in Paris on business trips.
Looking forward to more...
Luxembourg Gardens is one of my favorite spots in Paris as well. I've always tried to spend a little time there, even when I was in Paris on business trips.
Looking forward to more...
Apr 8th, 2004, 05:52 PM
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elle, I hope you, too, had a nice trip. I found the wine shop you recommended, Le Derniere Goutte, but unfortunatley couldn't make it on Sat. for the wine tasting. My only disappointment this trip!
ms go, a special thanks to you for your help on planning my husband and son's recent Spring training trip to Phoenix. I told my husband he had to post a trip report on the U.S. board. He looked at me and laughed!
Cigalechanta, the weather was great travel weather. 50's during the day, with some clouds and some sun. A few light sprinkles with cool nights, in the 40's.
I can't pick one favorite meal, so I'll pick 3! Souffles at La Cigale Recamier, everything at Le Clos des Gourmets, and Steak and frites at Relais de L'Entrecote.
Must cook dinner and will continue report!
ms go, a special thanks to you for your help on planning my husband and son's recent Spring training trip to Phoenix. I told my husband he had to post a trip report on the U.S. board. He looked at me and laughed!
Cigalechanta, the weather was great travel weather. 50's during the day, with some clouds and some sun. A few light sprinkles with cool nights, in the 40's.
I can't pick one favorite meal, so I'll pick 3! Souffles at La Cigale Recamier, everything at Le Clos des Gourmets, and Steak and frites at Relais de L'Entrecote.
Must cook dinner and will continue report!
