Forgot to mention

Took the no13 bus from in front of the B&B for a full circuit and then again to the Pzza Michaelangelo. Nice way to spend an hour or so seeing the town.

I love it so far, Ira! Welcome back...we've missed your advice. I'm leaving for Florence/Rome/CT in 6 days, so I'm on pins and needles to hear the "rest of the story".

And I LOVE the fashion report!

Ira: Not that I am an expert on this subject but when I visited The David in 1967 I was lucky enough to be in a crowd of two for a viewing. This gentleman was of the Jewish faith and we began chatting. He informed me (although I never did ask him about this) that at the time Michelangelo created David this WAS the extent of the circumcision performed on Jewish boys at this time. Since then, MORE has been taken.

Ira, so you too noticed the black bras under light-colored tops? When we saw it the first time, we thought, poor thing obviously didn't check the mirror before she left the house...the second and subsequent times, we knew it must be an Italian fashion trend. Not so lovely.

Ira: Further to David`s condition........found this on an educational site. "The wonderful statue of David by Michelangelo appears intact but is in fact correctly represented because the future King David has been circumcised by the accepted procedure of the Biblical era. Only the tip of his foreskin has been removed, fulfilling the Covenant with Abraham (Genesis 17)".

Enjoying your report so far, Ira! Glad to hear you had such a nice time. I'm going to save it for future reference...and I'm afraid I'll look like some sort of pervert craning my neck to get a better look at David's penis. Thanks goldwynn! I knew that was the most interesting part! For purely academic reasons, of course

Let's hear more, thanks.

I can tell already this one is going to be a keeper in my Italy files.

Thanks Ira...now get busy and tell us the rest! Are you going to show your photos??

Orvieto
Took the 10:44 train from FSMN and arrived Orvieto at 12:11. Took the spectacular funiculare ride up the hill, changed to the bus and landed in time for lunch at I Sette Consoli. I would not say that one should go to Orvieto just to eat here, but if you happen to be somewhere within 100 miles it would be a shame to miss it. We ate in a pavilion-style tent in the garden. Service was perfect, but not snooty. Food was exceptionally good and the wines were excellent. Portions were just right.

That day's lunch special consisted of: Zucchini and calamari fritters; Tortelloni filled with duck mousse over greens with a walnut sauce; Lamb loin in a rosemary-flavored bread crumb crust with sautéed porcini mushrooms and baby potatoes; Cheese plate (4 kinds); parfait with peach sauce. Breads and butter. 40E pp. plus wine. We had an Orvieto Classico and a Brunello de Montalcino.

The rest of the afternoon was spent enjoying the sights of Orvieto and views of the surrounding countryside before we returned to Florence.

Bologna
Took the 9:13 from FSMN and reached Bologna at 10:10. Headed down Via delle Independenza, but made a detour at Via Augusto Righi to Gelateria Moline, Via delle Moline 13. By far, the best gelato we had in Italy.

Returning to Via delle Independenza, we visited the Neptune fountain, Basilica di San Petronio, the Basilica di San Domenico and the churches of Santo Stefano, all of which were worth the visit.

Lunch was on the terrace of Da Cesarina, across the piazza from San Stefano. This was a lucky find. The cooking was almost as good as at Il Ritrovo. The intense flavor of the cantaloupe with prosciuto still lingers in memory. We shared a mixed antipasto - Cantaloup with prosciuto, bruscheta with another kind of prosciuto, mortadella. My LW had the seafood salad: calamari, shrimp, prawns, octopus, and cured salmon over tomatoes and onions with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and I had the tagliatelli Bolognese. The ragu had that almost burnt flavor that comes from long, long browning of the meat. Dessert was a generous cup of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and ribes. This last is a little, grape-like thingy that we had not seen before and which turned out to be a kind of currant. The family also owns the Cesarii vineyards from which they produce a very good Trebbiano di Romagna and a Sangiovese. About 50E with wine.

Visited San Stefano after lunch, went to see the towers, wandered about until we were ready to collapse. The folks at Nuovi Notai, where we had dinner, let us sit on the terrace and drink water until it was time to open. This allowed us to rest up for first class. Impeccable, yet pleasant, service. Good food, nice wines. LW had Pecorino and Pear salad, Potato flan with fried leeks, Tagliatelli with Porcini mushrooms. (I would have done the pears as dessert.) I had the potato flan, Tagllieri in duck ragu, roast lamb, and finished with a Vin Santo with pistachio biscotti.

Wine was a white Pignoletto (which turned out to be by Umbero Cesari) in deference to my LW, and a glass of Rosso de Montalcino to go with the lamb.

Returned to the train station through a lively town that was still going strong and waited a bit for the 10:48 train to Florence. Arrived at midnight. And so to bed.

Siena
Off on the 10:10 rapido and back on the scenic route in the late afternoon. It was very hot that day, so I don?t think that we gave Siena the attention it deserved. Saw the Campo and the Duomo, of course, and wandered about, but spent a lot of time sitting under umbrellas and either sipping wine or eating gelato.

Lucca
There is an ?antiques fair? on the third Sunday of the month in Lucca. So that is where we went. We should have skipped the flea market, which is what it was. Pricey, not very good stuff. Wandered through the lovely, well maintained town and enjoyed the day before returning to Florence.

To be continued

Wow, Ira, wow. When it comes to planning my next trip to Italy, I am definitely going to punch in your name. Thank you for taking the time to pass on your tips.

Welcome back Ira!! We missed your Tart Comments!! Love your report!!!

Hi Goldwynn,

Thanks for your posting. You are almost right. According to
THE OXFORD DICTIONARY OF THE JEWISH RELIGION, OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 1997
http://www.cirp.org/library/cultural/JewishEnc/
Michaelangelo has David circumcised according to the practice at David's time. I'm glad I wrote "perhaps".

Thanks all for your kind words.

Jody,
I put my SLR out to pasture and bought a digital camera. I took 1089 photos, of which I kept 709. I shall start sorting photos soon.

Any suggestions on how to put them on the web?

Great report Ira -- it's saved for our postponed too nay times Italy trip

Depends what you mean "on the web". A lot of people use webshots -- I use ofoto.com You can load your photos up there -- order prints -- make calenders and invite people to see them of course

Hi ira
How did you learn about the B&B Peterson in Florence?
It's not mentioned in the usual places that I look for more info.

Hi Ira

Great report so far.

Regarding putting your photos on the web, go to www.shutterfly.com
Upload your pictures there and just copy the link into one of your next responses. It's easy and they give you 15 free pictures for uploading to their site!

Oh, Ira,
This is so much fun!!!
Thanks for clearing up the "David" observation.....it left us shaking our heads!!
Can't wait to see your photos!!

Ira
I want to thank you so much for recomending Renato for a driver. Angelo picked us up at the airport then we had Renato for the next few days. I told him where I got his name and he was vey pleased. www.cuomonet.it great web site.

Very informative report Ira. I'm enjoying it! Looking forward to the pictures when you get them posted.

Ofoto.com is good for getting prints made. Have a few on our walls. But not the easiest site for sharing them out for the world to see. Everyone has to create an account there to access them (although I have mine ready!)

Try webshots.com, worldisround.com or pbase.com for creating an online photo album. Trekearth.com too, but only if you're one to pursue the artistic and technical aspects of photography. They review each others pics there, which I wouldn't subject myself to (they can be rough), but there are some phenomenal travel photographs on the site.

Good trip report, Ira! I especially like the way you have addressed fodorites concerns (what was the hotel like, how much was lunch/dinner, what were they wearing). I'm going to save your restaurants recommendations for next trip.

Ira! I absolutely LURVE your report! I can't wait to hear the rest of it - Love the fashion commentary too

Hi all,

Thanks for the suggestions on posting photos to the Web.

Elaine,
I found the B&B Peterson in the course of a long and tedious search for inexpensive places to stay. It's not in any of the usual places.

Lulu,
Glad Renato Cuomo turned out well for you too.

Venice
We did an overnight to Venice. I told Mr Ancillotti that we would be gone for the night and wished to keep the room, for which we would pay. Upon checkout, he charged us only 1/2 price for the night, because he didn't have to clean the room. We thought that this was rather nice.

Took the 10:38 ES* to Venice and arrived on time at Venice SL station. Well, actually we arrived on time at the entrance to the station. It took another 15 minutes before we could get off the train. Venice is like Cleopatra: "Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale her infinite variety". Every time I come out of the train station onto the Grand Canal, I get the same thrill.

We had made reservations for the night through an internet discounter at the Hotel Capri, across the Canal from the train station on Calle Bergamaschi. Because I had planned so well, I knew immediately upon reaching a bridge that we had passed Calle Bergamaschi. Slowly we retraced our steps back to the Ponte Scalzi. No soap. Back we went. Still no street. My LW began to doubt my skills as a guide. I pointed out that the street did exist on the map. She pointed out that I hadn?t found it. Back we went. This time we got lucky. I noticed the words "Calle Bergamaschi" painted on a wall behind a gate. The street name was carefully placed so that you could see it only if you were coming toward the Ponte Scalzi while looking upward. Pushing open the gate, and turning sideways we entered. About 50 feet down the passageway, the street opened out and led to a small campo. Amazingly, there was the hotel.

The Capri is a pleasant, 3-star with a helpful, courteous staff. We were given a moderate sized room on the fourth floor with a view of the dome of the S. Simon de Piccolo. That the hotel elevator only went to the 3rd floor was but a minor inconvenience. After settling in the room, we sought out the Antico Bassetta that Gard had recommended. Unfortunately, it was not open for lunch. Smelled very good. We shall try again next time.

Had lunch at a local spot and went off to Specchi Veneziana di Barbini Sergio, 1720 Calle del Cristi, to add to our collection of Venetian masks. Found a beautiful Jester. Wandered about, bought some saffron at Frutta Verdura Primizie di Paglione Antonio, a spice shop on Via Orefici, at about 1/5 the cost as at home.

Dinner at Cantinone Storico, which was recommended by more than one person on this forum. It is on a canal near the Accademia Bridge, within sound of the bells of one of the churches. Lovely atmosphere. Excellent cooking. Very good presentation. Superior service. Highly recommended.

I had tuna carpaccio, seafood risotto and Sea bass. My LW had the mixed seafood antipasto, and shard the cheese platter (gorgonzola, belle paese and reggiano parmesano).

With the antipasti, we had the house white - a nice Pinot Grigio. With dinner a bottle of Mercato Vendemenia - an assertive and slightly resinous white with a bit of fizz.

Ran out of wine when it was time for the cheese. Asked if the Mercato came by the glass. Waiter said "no". As we didn't want another full bottle, I asked for a 1/4 L of the house. Waiter made a face. Brought a bottle of the Mercato. Poured two glasses. No charge. I like people who know that dining is an art form.

Weather was rather humid and warm. Very few men were wearing jackets.

The next day we did the Secret Itineraries Tour. Had reservations for the 10:45 tour. Arrived at 10:20, as ordered. Got my ticket, clearly printed "10:45 tour". Sat at the meeting point and waited. 10:45 came and went. Nothing. At 11:00 went and asked when the tour would start. After a few minutes, I was sent to the information desk, where I was greeted by name and told that "actually, there is no 10:45 English tour. The next English tour is at 11:30". Ah, belle Italia.

Went on the 11:30 tour. Interesting trip with a pleasant and entertaining guide. Afterward we wandered through the Doge's Palace. Had a quick lunch. Took a traghetto across the canal, standing upWent to the Grande Scuolo Rocco. Overwhelming number of Tintorettos. Needs a few visits to absorb. One of the dangers of visiting Venice is that there is so much first class art that one starts making comparisons as if one knew what one was talking about: ?Oh, that was an OK ?Assumption of the Virgin?, but I think Titian did it better?.

Left the museum, picked up our luggage and took the 6:30 train back. Arrived Florence in a gentle rain that lasted all night. Everyone was very happy since it was the first rain since May.

To be continued

Ira you're making me salivate!
Really enjoying report so far.
Thank you!
Kavey

Ira, this is a first-rate report. So very happy you detailed information on the restaurants you enjoyed.

Adding to my trip file...

lovely report,
too bad we had gone to Florence before I read this.
All your eating suggestions will be earmarked for further travels.

Fashion in Italy,
this was my children's 2nd trip,
but at 16yrs.of age this year , my son had a very different perspective on the fashions worn by the women.!

Naples
Said goodbye to the Ancillottis, put our luggage into the tiny elevator and out to the street. Bade farewell to the folks at the corner café and walked down to the Train station, where we took the 10:54 ES* to Naples. Train trip was uneventful except for 2 truly ugly Americans who, with their wives, spent the time between Florence and Rome making unpleasant remarks about Italy and Italians in voices loud enough to be heard at either end of the car. These weren?t the only uglies we encountered. There were ugly Aussies, ugly Brits, ugly Germans, ugly Italians, even ugly Japanese, but somehow ugly Americans seem worse than the others.

Arrived Napoli Centrale more or less on time (20 min late) and found a booth that sold the Naples Artecard. Unfortunately, they had suspended sales of the 13E card. Found a tabacchi and bought metro tickets. Found the entrance to the Metro, and lugged our suitcase down the stairs. A friendly policeman helped with the last stage.

A note about police: In Italy we found railroad police (Feropol), municipal police (Polizi) and national police (Carabini) in abundance. The latter are the elite force ? fancy uniforms, better cars, coiffed hair. There is more than a little competition between police forces. One day we saw a police car slowly driving up the street through pedestrian traffic. A few minutes later it came slowly backing down the street, nose to nose with a larger, newer police car marked Carabini. On another occasion two polizie parked their car alongside a Carabini car, trapping it against a wall, and walked away, leaving the Carabinieri sputtering and gesticulating.

Arrived at Piazza Cavour and followed the signs to Museo. Level walks, elevators and people movers made the walk with the luggage easy, until the very end where we had to overcome two flights of stairs. Once out of the Metro, it was a short walk up the hill to Via S. M. Costantinopoli and a few blocks down hill to the Albergo Sansevero. The hotel entrance is in a courtyard. You take the elevator to the second floor reception, where very nice people help you check in and show you to your room, which, except for the two suites, are on the first floor ? not accessible by lift. Oh well.

The room at the Sansevero was large and clean. The AC was more than adequate. The towels were nice and fluffy. Unfortunately, there was an odor in the bathroom, which I was able to trace to an improperly closed off sewage pipe left over from the renovation of the bathroom. The odor was not overwhelming, but it was unpleasant.

We paid 90E/night, which I think was high for what was provided.

The best part of the Sansevero is Mr Fiorillo, who runs the café next door where you go for breakfast. He is a character. Breakfast was 2 very fresh pastries and a cuppa. No decaf coffee, however, so my LW had decaf tea.

One point about decaf in Italy. It is just about as good as the regular, and they usually bring you the packet from which your tea or coffee was brewed so that you can see what you got.

Thursday afternoon (09/25) we had an aperitivo at one of the cafes on Pzza Bellini and walked through Via Port?Alba to Pzza Dante, down Via Toledo to Pzza Carita and then up to Pzza Gesu Nuovo where we had dinner at Trattoria Napoli. I had the pepardelli and the swordfish. My LW had gnocchi and some of my spada. Dinner with wine about 40E.

Friday we went to the Archaeological Museum to see the Pompeii mosaics and other treasures. Some very nice small bronzes that I would love to have. You don?t have to sign up for the erotica; just walk in the exit. It came as no surprise that sex hasn?t changed much in the last 2000 years. We learned from the didactic material in the erotic section that this was the collection of a Cardinal of the Catholic Church, and that most of it is Egyptian, except for the stuff that is fake.

We then walked down Via Toledo to the waterfront and the Castel dell Ovo, taking in the sights and absorbing the sounds. Had lunch and aperitivo at local places and dinner at Pizza Bellini. Get there early. By 9:00 PM people were lining up. My LW had grilled fish and a spinach contorno. I had the eggplant/prosciutto rolls and linguini fruiti de mare. We shared the cheese plate (3 kinds) and the lemon cake topped with whipped cream. Our first taste of Amalfi Coast lemons in the South. Ummmmmmmmm. With wine 64E.

Saturday we visited the Capella Sansevero, with its ?Veiled Christ? ? an amazingly beautiful work. It doesn?t have the drama of ?David?, but it is exquisitely worked. Two other works also show the artist?s skill at depicting the folds and drape of cloth. We then walked over to the Montesanto metro stop and took the funiculare up to the Castel St Elmo. The way up to the funiculare is NOT where it says ?ai treni? (to all trains). That, logically enough, is the way to the trains. Fortunately, we were redirected by a friendly gentleman who explained that the funiculare is not a train. Entrance is to the right of the train entrance.

The best part of the Castel is the view. We also enjoyed the view from the terrace of the Bar Cin Cin, where we had some wine and a beer. Nostro Azzura is surprisingly good beer ? well balanced between hops and malt. As we were leaving, we noted that the place had filled with people having lunch. We should have stayed.

Returned to Pzza Dante for a late lunch at Leon d?Oro consisting of Pizza Capricciosa ? various meats and vegetables ? and Antipasto Misto ? six ways of doing eggplant, mushrooms and zucchini. 19E with wine.

Strolled about. Bought some Limoncello. It said, ?guaranteed all natural ingredients? on the label, but the yellow color cautioned me from buying a large bottle. It wasn?t bad, but it wasn?t all natural. Real limoncello should be pale and slightly green.

Dinner at Pizza Bellini again. This time we did not order from the menu, but chose what we wanted from the display case. Steamed fish in parchment, mixed clams and mussels in wine and olive oil, marinated eggplant, spinach, another limonello cake. Complimentary limoncello. It pays to go back. 69E with wine.

Sunday, my lady wife was awakened at 3:30 AM by the emergency lighting going on. ?What?s that??, she exclaimed. ?The emergency lighting?, I replied and went back to sleep. Later that morning, Mr Fiorillo informed me that all of Europe was having a power outage. We later discovered that it was only Italy that was blacked out.

Well, this was certainly a problem. Fortunately, it was Sunday. I shudder to think what might have happened in Naples if it had been a Monday and they couldn?t turn the traffic lights to blinking yellow for rush hour.

Even though the power was out, the regulars kept stopping by the café in the hope that Mr Fiorillo might have some hot coffee. It was not to be. All he had was café freddo (cold coffee), which would not do for the locals but I found delicious. Later Mrs Fiorillo sent down some hot coffee that she had made on the gas range, and I got a cup with brandy in it. When my LW arrived for her morning tea, there was hot water for her. Lovely folks.

Along with the power outage, it began to rain. Thinking that getting wet and cold in a dark city was not the best way to spend a vacation, I called our driver, Mr Cuomo, and asked if he could pick us up early. He graciously said he would and soon arrived to take us to Praiano. We were lucky to have decided on a limo to take us to the Amalfi Coast, because with no power, the trains weren?t running.

Notes on Naples:
Napoli is a lively, vibrant and chaotic town. In short, it swings. Morning rush hour ? all of the traffic lights are on blinking yellow, yet somehow everyone gets where they are going. Pedestrian streets - motor scooters and motorcycles are considered to be pedestrians. The old part of the city has magnificent pallazzi and enclosed shopping malls embedded among architecturally insignificant buildings in great need of repair. The waterfront is a great area to stroll ? beautiful views, public parks, upscale hotels and the Castel dell Ovo.

Found a ?hole in the floor? toilet. Very clean, tiled toilet, but it did look anachronistic.


Dining Notes: Naples

Pizza Bellini, end of Piazza Bellini just opposite Via Port?Alba.
Very good local restaurant. In addition to 39 kinds of pizza, fish, shellfish, pasta, good local wines. Moderate to expensive.

Leon d?Oro, Piazza Dante Very good local restaurant Moderate to Expensive

Trattoria Napoli, Pzza Gesu Nuovo Good local restaurant Moderate prices

Bar Cin-Cin, Via T. Angelini near the Castel S. Elmo. Beautiful view from the terrace. Prize-winning restaurant Expensive.


To be continued

Hi Nan,

I should think that your son was in a perpetual state of...ummm...excitement at being in Italy again.

Somehow it's always more offensive to see your own countrymen being ugly.

Great reports - must be quite a journal to keep all the details!

I'm glad you liked Naples, Ira. We too found the Bar Cin-Cin and have a great sunset photo of ourselves with beautiful Naples and its bay shining below. We had only a day there, a situation that will be rectified on the next trip. The food and cafes in this city are recommendation enough, aren't they? The rhum babas, the pizza, the salamis...

Very enjoyable. Thank you. I especially liked the part about your being locked in a garden with your LW solving the dilemna.

The Amalfi Coast

We left Naples at 12:45, and Mr Cuomo had us at the Hotel Le Sirene by 2:45. Unfortunately, my LW discovered that the sheer cliffs of the Coast Road gave her a severe case of vertigo. This, as you might expect, had a major effect on our planned itinerary. However, as a former Boy Scout, I put all of my planning skills to work and developed a plan that would stay as close to sea level as possible. Following is the expensive way to do the Costa Amalfatina.

The Le Sirene is located just below the Pzza San Giovanni, in the heart of Praiano. Six steps down from the main street, a ramp to the piazza, another ramp to Via San Nicola and a mere 43 steps down to the hotel. It is a bit difficult carrying a large suitcase in the rain, but it was good exercise. As a matter of fact, I had no back pain for the whole week in Praiano. The hotel is very pretty. Actually the website doesn?t do it justice. (http://www.lesirene.com/index_ing.htm) We were warmly greeted by Giancarmine and his wife, Maria and taken to our room, no.12, which was large enough for a king-size bed, a table and two chairs plus the ensuite bath with tub. French doors led to our private patio which had two chaise lounges, a table and two chairs and directly faced the island group Le Sirene. There is also a great view of Positano. On a clear day you can see Capri. Below the patio is a small truck farm with olive and fruit trees. Note that the AC is turned off around the end of September. We found that, because of the breezes, our room was always cool enough for sleeping, but it could be warm in the afternoon.

We watched the waves, the mist, the rain, the trees, the clouds settling on the mountains and drank limoncello. The joys of il dolce far niento.

The power finally came back on, and after the hot water was restored, we repaired to the bar. I taught Sgr Giancarmine how to make an American Martini Cocktail, which made my LW happy. I worked my way through the various Italian aperitivi (not all at once).

Dinner was at La Strada, one of two good restaurants in Praiano. I had the pizza with panchetta and cipollini, a dish which is worth traveling to Praiano for, mixed clams and mussels and the grilled fish. LW had fresh mozzarella baked in lemon leaves, another dish worth the trip, the mixed seafood platter (calamari, prawn, shrimps) and a cherry tomato and arugula salad. Main courses were accompanied by potatoes and grilled eggplant. Dinner with wine 69E.

La Strada is a very good restaurant. The ambience is slightly formal. Service is very proper, yet not snooty. The food is first rate and beautifully presented. Price is very low for what you get.

A small town on the other side of the mountains celebrated it?s Saint?s Day that night and their fireworks lit up the clouds above Positano. The weather cleared later and revealed the Milky Way, a million stars and 3 comets.

Breakfast buffet was 2 kinds of bread, pastry, 3 kinds of cheese, 2 kinds of salumi, fruits, yogurt (4 kinds), fresh orange juice (blood oranges), coffee or tea. The cheeses, pastry and salumi changed each day.

To orient ourselves, we took the local orange bus, Positano-Praiano, around its route. The bus goes through Praiano, up to Positano, down through Positano, up to the Coast Road, back through Praiano, on to La Praia and back to Praiano. Unfortunately, my LW, even when sitting on the side away from the road, couldn?t take the ride again.

Note: you can pay for the orange bus on the bus, but you must buy tickets for the SITA buses (blue or green) before boarding. Since we always bought 4 tickets at a time, we were able to help out folks who didn?t know this, by selling them our tickets.

Following our bus tour, we walked about town until my LW calmed down, had lunch and a siesta. After an aperitivo and conversation with other guests at the bar we had dinner at La Brace, the other good restaurant in Praiano. La Brace is a very friendly restaurant with a homey feel. The food is very good.

I had the Veal Scallopini and eggplant, Roberta had the linguini vongole. We shared a lovely dessert of a cherry tart, made with local cherries. Dinner with wine 52E.

Sunrise: The mountains blush because the dawn finds them sleeping. Absolutely beautiful.

After breakfast, we took the SITA bus to Amalfi. LW found this part of the road easier to take. We wandered through the town seeing the sights and buying souvenirs. Found 21-year old balsamic vinegar at Alimentari Nicola Anasta (a great store for foodies) on Via Lorenzo d?Amalfi. They also have 12 and 18 year old. You pay 1E per year. Had gelato at the gelateria of the Hotel Savoia. Very good and not expensive ? 2.5E for 2 scoops.

Back to Praiano for dinner at La Brace (Le Strada is closed on Tuesday), where we again enjoyed a very nice dinner.

Wednesday we took the bus to Amalfi and the boat to Sorrento. Beautiful ride along the coast. The water is an unbelievably deep blue and the wake from the boat is starkly white. Arrived in Sorrento and walked to the plaza looking for how to get up to the town. Saw a bus and asked the driver for directions to the train station. He said to come aboard; he would take us. So we did, and he did. It turned out that this was a private bus that was going to pick up a tour group near the train station, so I still don?t know how to get from the boat dock to town.

Wandered about Sorrento, window shopped, lunched, shopped, saw sights, had a bottle of wine, returned to Praiano via SITA bus because the last boat left in the early afternoon. Roberta found it easier to ride the SITA bus at night but was still queasy.

Another great dinner at La Strada (LW wouldn?t let me have another panchetta/cipollini pizza), and so to bed.

Next day we took the bus to Amalfi and the boat to Positano. Saw the sights, bought souvenirs, stopped in at the Sireneuse. Beautiful view from the lobby ? the same islands as seen from our patio at Le Sirene. The difference was that from our hotel we could easily see Positano, while from the Sireneuse you had to crane your neck to see Praiano.

We splurged for lunch at the terrace restaurant of the Hotel Buca di Bacco. I had the house special antipasto plate (pate de fois, fried zucchini sticks, potato puff with Parmesano cheese, seafood fritter, shrimps), and the baked eggplant parmigiana. LW had a cheese omelette and a salad. Lunch with wine 65E, but a great view of the beach.

Wandered about: Lots of expensive clothes shops, many shoe stores but no socks. Took note of an interesting phenomenon. People eating pizza and French Fries, sometimes eating pizza with French Fries. Still can?t get over it.

Returned to Amalfi on the 5:00 PM boat (left at 5:30) and so back to Praiano for a light dinner of pizza and a salad. 25E with wine.

Weather turned hot and humid on Friday. The Scirocco from Africa causes this. After another excellent breakfast we took the bus to Amalfi, sold our extra tickets to two tourists, bought some more upon arrival, and caught the 12:10 boat to Salerno. It?s a short walk to the train station, which we reached at 13:10. I bought two return tickets to Paestum. The gentleman at the information booth told me to take the 13:42. Upon checking the departures board, I discovered that there were two trains leaving at 13:42. Returning to the information booth, I waited on line until I could ask which of the two trains passed through Paestum. The train to Cosenza, I was told. Fortunately, we still had 5 min to make the train.

Note about Italian trains: The departure board tells you what time and from which track each train leaves, but it gives you the final destination, not the intermediate stops.

To reach the Greek ruins at Paestum, exit the train station and walk straight to the arch. Follow the road to the end (about ? km) and go right to the ticket booth (1/2 km). I suggest that you then go back to the other end (1 km), stopping off at the Ristorante Della Rose for a snack and a glass of wine (salad capresi with homegrown tomatoes and basil, fresh mozzarella, local wine, beer, bread 14E) and go in the exit. There is someone who will take your ticket. You can then walk through the site, exit and go to the Museum, which is air conditioned.

Paestum is the largest site of Greek ruins outside Greece. There are three temples in very good condition, as well as numerous foundations and residential artifacts. The museum has a number of very good pieces taken from the site.

Gelato at the Museum bar was excellent. The bar has photos from 1939, when Mussolini visited Paestum.

Caught the 5:43 back to Salerno, where we connected with the SITA Bus to Amalfi and then the SITA bus to Sorrento, arriving back at Praiano at 8:30. Showered, changed and went to dinner at La Brace. Scirocco continues. Hot and humid.

Saturday we just vegetated. I think that the weather finally got to us.

Sunday dawned gray and rainy. We had arranged for a porter to help with our luggage. For 10E he carried our large suitcase and one carryon from the hotel to the road, where our driver was waiting. I paid him, and he walked back to the hotel in the rain. (I?m sorry, I couldn?t resist.) Off to Naples and on to Rome.


To be continued

Hi dln,

I guess we belong to the half that loved Naples. My lady wife wouldn't mind never going back.

Thanks ira for such a good report. Look forward to your report of la costiera Amalifitana.

My notebook is now up to page 15 with "Ira's Italy." I'll be retracing many of your steps, Ira. And sampling your wine suggestions!

More, please...

A note on driving the Amalfi Coast:

This road is about 22 feet wide (I measured it) and handles 2 way traffic, some of which is buses going both ways.

The local bus drivers know the road very well and can pass each other without difficulty, because they know where to stop.

The tour bus drivers are not very familiar with the road and often get stuck in the wrong spots, causing traffic jams, that sometimes motor scooters can't get through.

I don't recommend driving a car on this route, as the driver will end up angry and upset, and not get to see the scenery.

If you want a real ride, take a motor scooter or motorcycle from Sorrento to Amalfi and back.

If you want to see the scenery, take the SITA bus.

Ira: I have also just returned from Italy and I am preparing a brief report. But I am starting a new folder to save every line of yours so that my next trip will be even better.

Ira, you'll get a kick out of this since you observed the way traffic works on the Amalfi coast.

We took the SITA bus from Amalfi to Ravello. Around the hairpin turn where the ceramics shop is, the traffic jammed up. There was a bus in front of ours, four cars coming from the other direction, and no one could move. Talk about a logjam in a hairpin! The busses backed up; the cars backed up. An attempt to manouever failed. The busses backed up; the cars backed up. The cars became irate and started honking. The process was repeated. Finally, when it appeared that traffic could resume, a little Smart car appeared out of nowhere, and zoomed through. Everyone gasped at the gall!!! Then two motorcycles followed suit and did a little dance through the cars and busses. Our entire bus collapsed with laughter, the driver shifted into gear, and we all marched forward, still chuckling about the David and Goliath moment.

Ira, I am enjoying your report. Re Paestum: the day we were there it absolutely poured. I remembered reading about how when the Allies landed in the Salerno area during WWII, they had the same weather. (Hence the sarcasm in the song, "We are the D Day Dodgers/ In sunny Italy....") Glad to hear that the sun shone for you for the most part.

That's a good one, dln.

Ira, would you recommend this B&B for a single female traveler? Did you ever wish you were closer to the center of the city? Thanks for any info.

Ira ... I LOVE this report. Your writing is both informative and funny.
Also, perhaps selfishly "its all about me"...I am just beginning to be able to travel. I'm a single woman. I hesitated to think of Italy because the idea of driving by myself makes me shudder. That said, your itenerary shows me one can do it by trains & taxis! For me, huge "I can do that!"
Thank you so much.

Hi ee,

Yes, I would recommend the B&B Peterson to a single female. My wife and I walked from the train station to the B&B a number of times around midnight.

The streets are well lighted, there is regular traffic, the sidewalks are wide.

No, we did not wish we were closer to the center. It is about 8-10 min to the train station and another 8-10 to the Duomo.

If you decide to stay there, I can give you some shortcuts.

Hi Susan,

So glad to have been helpful. Pack light and have a great trip to Italy.

Going Home (sigh)

Mr Renato picked us up in the rain at 11:00 and deposited us at Naples Centrale at 12:30. We had an hour before our train left, and we spent it people watching over lunch at McDonalds. This is not your American-style McD. One portion is a coffee bar with Italian pastries and espresso machines. In the middle is a pizza stand. At the other side is the usual McD counter. The salads were pretty good: 3E for salad Caprese or a garden salad with seafood and tuna.

There are two trains, one an ES* and one an IC, that go from Naples to Rome at 1:30. They are scheduled to arrive within a few minutes of each other. I chose to take the IC, and save some money. The ES* left on time. The IC left 1/2 hr late and arrived 45 min late.

Because we arrived in Rome late and the weather was very threatening, we skipped our quick tour of Rome and went directly to the Holiday Inn EUR-Parco dei Medici. This is a modern European International style hotel, with all of the little luxuries ? 110E/dbl w/bkfst. The restaurant was better than expected. They have a serve-yourself salad buffet at dinner and a very generous breakfast with good breads and pastries, cheeses and salumis and ham and eggs, bacon, pancakes and Vienna Sausages. No baked beans, though.

The 8:30 free shuttle (a 20E value) left on time and dropped us off at Terminal C at about 8:50. When we got to the US Airways desk, we were asked if we would consider taking an earlier Delta nonstop, as our plane was overbooked. We did, and arrived home five hours earlier. Delta informed our limo service in Atlanta of the change, and we had no problems getting home.

Gelato recommendations:

Gelateria Moline, Via delle Moline 13, Bologna Absolutely the very best we had.

Bar 4 Contorni, on the Campo,Sienna, Very, very good.

Vivoli, Florence Very good, but not as good as reputed.

Festival Gelateria, Via Corso (next to COIN department store), Florence, As good as Vivoli.

Bar Museo, (next to the museum), Paestum surprisingly good, mango was excellent

Perche No, Florence Good, but there were ice crystals in some of the flavors.

Wine Notes:

Italy has an abundance of regional wines (DOC) that are very hard to find outside the country. I do not claim to be a wine expert, but here is a list of those that we found especially interesting. They were all about 15E at the restaurants, with the exception of the Brunello di Montalcino (35E for a 1/2 bottle) at I Sette Consoli.

Brunello di Montalcino (Altesino, 1997) World-Class red wine loaded with flavors. The sommelier brought it out at the beginning of the meal to let it mellow. It kept coming up with new tastes.

Greco di Tufo (Beneventano 2002) Deep straw color, hint of saltiness tastes of nutmeg, coriander, apples Perfect with pasta and fish

Lachryma Christi (Mastroberardino 1999) All kinds of red fruit, tart finish Excellent with rabbit Also comes in a fruity white for fish.

Monti Lessini (Mercato 2000) Straw-colored, assertive and slightly resinous. Goes well with shellfish and tuna. Stands up well to cheese. Too assertive for mild fish.

Orvieto Classico Superiore (Inoma 2001) Fruity, aromatic, with a dry finish. Goes well with seafood, veal and pasta

Pignoletto Emilia (Umberto Cesari 2002) A fizzy, aromatic white that complements lighter meats, fruits and mild cheeses.

Rosso di Montalcino (Caparzo 2000) The rosso?s are the less well-endowed relatives of the Brunello?s at lower prices. This was a very nice wine, with good fruit flavors. It was still a bit young.

Sannio Falanghina Piemonte Dry, fresh fruit Good for sipping

Trebbiano di Romagna (Umberto Cesari 2002) Perfect with seafood

Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Torre Grossa 2002) A very spicy, almost salty white, that goes beautifully with Tuscan bread. Excellent for white meats, mild cheeses and pasta.

Things that stand out in memory

Cherry tomatoes from the slopes of Mt Vesuvius, the aroma of Amalfi Lemons, limoncello, Porcini mushrooms, truffles, salumi of all kinds, real pizza, gelato (even the stuff that is only very good ice cream), vino, vino, vino, real cappuccino, the chaos of Napoli, the ?David?, the Bargello, view from the Porcelain Museum in the Boboli Gardens, the view from Le Sirene, Venezia


Thank you all for your kind words. If you have any more questions, I shall be happy to try to answer them.

Thank you, Ira. A wonderful report. It was fun to get to read it over several days.
Judy C

Dear Ira,
Thank you for the whole report, but ESPECIALLY for the information about Naples! We are leaving Monday so I got it just in time. I'll take it all with me and hope I have the same luck with wonderful food. I'm glad that you got to the Museo and the Veiled Christ, even though I won't get to (boo hoo) but NEXT time, I will be sure that we are there NOT on a Tuesday. Sorry about your wife's vertigo - not fun at all. Would you stay at the Sansevero again? Do you think it was just one room affected (infected!) with the sewer odor? If you wouldn't stay there, did you pick out another likely place?
Thanks again,
Mama

ira, I was waiting til you finished before I said MILLE GRAZIE!!! It's a very informative report; especially the wine advice.

I feel bad that your wife had to suffer a bit along the Amalfi Coast but you both still seemed to have managed that portion of your trip just fine.

I'm saving your notes for future trips so thanks again!

Hi ira,
Enjoyed your report. You always seem to have such helpful ideas--guess it is all the research you do. I was thinking of the Sansevero when we go to Naples because the location seemed perfect for the Arch Museum and the Cappella Sansevero and Spaccanapoli area. Since I will only be in Naples for a couple of nights I would like to cut down on transportation time. Well, after reading Mizzeve's comments and your explanation I am wondering what I should do. Should I just hold my nose (something I don't think my husband will want to do) or do you have another suggestion for a hotel? Thanks

Thanks Ira for responding to my question regarding the B&B in Florence. I realized after I posted that I was not clear about where I was talking. I already had a reservation in the Duumo area but whenever I can get a suggestion from someone who has actually stayed someplace and as a result save a little money I go for it. Any hints/shortcuts would be greatly appreciated. I can't wait to leave!

Dear Brahmama

I hope I catch you before you leave.
The sewer odor was unpleasant, but not pervasive, ie, if you closed the bathroom window and door you smelled it, but if you left the bathroom window open and closed the door you got just a whiff.

However, you might want to try the other properties that they have on their website.

Hi Mimipam,

See my response to Brahmama.

I had read so many nice things about the Sansevero, that I didn't bother to look elsewhere. There are some recommendations for Naples hotels mostly by the waterfront, though. Try a text search.

Hi ee,

If you decide to stay at the B&B Peterson,

1. Walking from the hotel toward the train station cross via F. Rosselli. Stay in position and turn right. You will see large, white vertical letters DLF. This is the cafe for the train personnel. Go in. Continue straight toward the back. You will see a stairway. Go up. Cross the tracks. You are now on platform 3 of the FSMN station. Saves crossing streets.

You can also get breakfast there. They have an internet point. Ask for an internet card - 3.65E for one hour.

2. There is a nice grocery store on the right hand side of the street as you walk toward the train station. Very good for buying fruits and juices for breakfast.

3. If you go right at via F. Rosselli about 1 block from via G. Monaco is a good Indian restaurant - Salaam Bombay.

Have a great trip.

for mcmrjm

Just wanted to drop in and tell you how much I enjoyed your report, Ira, now that you're done. I was traveling when you did the final installments. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you Statia. I greatly enjoyed your report.

ira - love your report and I am printing it out for future trips. Did you ever regret not having a car and do you think you missed out on any opportunities by not having one?

Hi Barb,

Glad you liked my report.

We planned this trip with the idea of taking public transportation, and as you can see it is pretty much city oriented.

If I were planning more time in the small towns of Tuscany/Chianti or Tuscany/Umbria, I would do it by car.

ttt

Great report! I love it when people include what the locals are wearing. It is great for people like me who like to pretend they are locals instead of tourists. However if I decide to go I will try to work out and diet first so that I don't gross everyone out!

Hi Ira,
I just wanted to let you know how much I have enjoyed your reports. I studied in Florence a couple years ago and I am heading back in the Spring. Your vivid commentaries bring back many memories. You seem like such a seasoned traveler. You are an excellent resource for both first-time and experienced travelers. I hope you continue to contribute!

Hi Meg and Melissa,

Thank you for the kind words.

Ira, I've very late in finding and reading your October Italy report - just a note to thank you for filing this MARVELOUS description of your travels. When I read "the mountains blush because the dawn finds them sleeping" - I could visualize what you were witnessing. Thank you for taking the time to answer the novice traveler's (like me) questions - even though they are repetitive. Happy New Year, Ira. Naturegirl

Thank you for your kind words, naturegirl.

Happy New Year

Ira,
Thanks for the report with great details. We are off to Florence in March so I am taking notes!!

Ira I wanted to compliment you, you found two of the nicer spots in Bologna. Gelateria delle Moline is in the top 5 of Bologna's gelateria (but not actually the best! most people say either La Sorbetteria, Gianni, or Stefino), and dd Cesarina is very well known for it's food!

Whoa bad typos there, I think I shall go to bed now.

Thank you for the kind words jedri.

RAR,

Thanks for the gelatteria info.

Wow IRA! Your trip report was very informative! I think you have just inspired me to plan my own trip to Italy/Europe for my honeymoon! (I had a post about tours in Europe for a couple in their 20's) Can you tell me what sources you used to plan your trip as far as guides, flight arrangements, train scheduling, etc, etc... My fiance and I have spent many hours reading guide books at B&N and searched the web, but we're still having a diffucult time getting started. We have approx 19 days so I think that's enough time to squeeze in 4-5 cities. Thanks so much for your inspirational trip report!

Hi Jen,

Thanx for your kind words.

As you can see from my report, we based ourselves in Florence, Naples and Praiano and did 21 days.

Since you are honeymooning, you might want to consider flying into Venice for 4 days, Florence for 4 days, Naples for 3 days (including Pompeii), the AC for 3 days (we really liked Praiano) and return from Rome.

How did I plan the trip? I immersed myself in this forum and received invaluable help.

This thread is very helpful
Helpful Information: Italy http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34443340

I'll be happy to help you with any questions you might have if you post to me at irablock@yahoo.com

Thanks Ira! I will definately page you if I have any questions!

Hi Ira,

I am interested in the B&B Peterson after reading your comments, but I have concerns of the location as typically hotels near train stations are dumps and it's not safe late at night - not that my cousin and I will be out at midnight. I see on my map its located on the opposite side of the main sights. Were you comfortable there and did you feel safe?

I also read your directions - is that to cross over the tracks to the fortezza side? I guess my confusion is when you say to turn right - I'm looking thinking heading south from the hotel on Monaco, turn left and over the tracks. Can you please clarify for me? Thanks so much!

Monica
mpileggi@adelphia.net

Hi Monica,

The walk between the trin station and the B&B Peterson is up Via Luigi Alamanni, which is a broad, well lighted, busy street.

My wife had no concerns about walking it at night.

The hotel is in a safe, residential neighborhood.

To get to the B&B exit the train station on the Via L. Alamanni side (there is a flight of steps) and cross the street. Turn right and walk up the western side of the street toward Via G. Monaco.

You do this because there is a parking lot for motorcycles on the side of the street next to the station.

Enjoy your stay, and say "hello" to the Ancillottis for me.

Ira, What a great trip report! I will definitely print this one out and bring it with me.

I wanted to ask you if the Holiday Inn you stayed at in Rome was within walking distance to any of the sites? We have to go back to Rome for one night to catch our flight back and I was curious what area the hotel is located in?

Thanx Ira, great stuff. You can continue to relive your trip via this thread.

Thank you all for your kind words.

JenniferW,
the Holiday Inn is in the EUR Parc Medici, which is about a 40E cab ride from the city center.

It is a nice hotel, but the next time we go to Rome, we will stay in the city and take the train or a cab to the airport.

Ira,
Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences, we are leaving for florence and Rome in April and I now feel as I am prepared (and this is my 2nd trip)

You were very thorough and covered all of the bases as far as we are concerned.

We are printing your report to assist us in our decisions.

Hi sandjmcknight,

Glad to have been of help. Enjoy your trip.

thank you for your experiences. Can you recommend any restaurants in Fiesole, is there luggage storage at Orvieto station? sorry I accidentally emailed this question too

Hi woodsie,

From my notes,

Reggia degli etruschi recommended in rick steves abt 15E/person
Via S.Francesco,18 Closed Monday tel. 05559385

we also looked in at the Villa Aurora next to the Bar Blu. They have a lovely dining terrace.

There are also several cafes and pizzerias on the square which looked good.

Wow! I just became a Fodorite today to get some tips on Italy before I go there in April and I found this great thread! I want to just repeat what everyone has said i.e. this is a fantastic report and I have already created my own "Ira's Italy trip"..

Thanks, Ira.. this is going to help me tremendously. Will definitely try a shot at staying at B&BPeterson in Florence...

Hi vids,

Glad you liked the report.

Say "hi' to the Ancellottis for me.

Ira, I really enjoy reading your informative posts. I have tried all your posted suggestions for a place to stay in Florence (Peterson B&B) and the Amalfi Coast(Le Sirene) but they are booked. This is our first trip and we are trying so hard to make the plans ourselves. Do you have any other suggestions. Thankyou.

Hey, Ira,

Mr. Ancilloti has given his kind regards to you! I got a prompt email from him confirming our reservation at the Peterson.

One question: What is the Secret Itineraries tour in Venice? Should I post this question as a seperate thread? You mentioned it in your Venice report, so I thought I'd ask.

Thanks, Vids

Hi vids

>What is the Secret Itineraries tour in Venice? <

They take you on a guided tour of the back rooms of the Doge's Palace and up to the roof. You see the prison cells as well. It takes about 1 1/2 hr.

You can then walk thought the Palace at liesure.

Hi ginn,

Too bad.

Here's anoter one that looked good in Praiano,

http://www.continental-positano.it/welcome/welcomeuk.htm

One in Florence

http://www.florenceby.com/giulia/

Also check www.venere.com and www.florenceby.com.

When you see something you like, post a message asking for feedback.

Good luck.

going to praiano in may , thanks for all the good sharing cannot wait till i see your trip pictures

On June 5th, we will be going to Italy for our first time! We will be 5 days in Venice with a business group and plan to leave Venice via train to Florence on Friday, June 11th. We are scheduled by train to Rome on Monday, the 14th and to depart there on Thursday the 17th for 3 days in Positano, on the Amalfi Coast. We have our train reservations and hotel reservations.

Do you have any advice for us on what to plan to take along? What are must not misses? or any other advice? After reading your posts I am afraid we have planned too much. We have arranged private tours in Florence and in Rome. Are the trains difficult? We will be carrying our luggage and will keep it light.

I have studied some basic Italian in the last few months, but we are basically non Italian speaking. We will be on our own after Venice.

Hi Ira - I came across your trip report and found it to be very informative! Sounds like you had an amazing trip! I noticed that you said you took Bus 13 to Pizzale Michelangelo in Florence - something we are also planning on doing. I was wondering if you know if that bus continues on to the Boboli Gardens. We were planning on buying the ticket for 3 hours in stead of 60 minutes. That way once we were done admiring the views, we could just take the bus onwards to the gardens.

Hi HH,

Thanks for the kind words.

You can get the bus route and very good maps at http://www.ataf.net/Default_EN.asp

Choose your route and then click on "Percorso_grafico_schematico".

You can also click on the "maps". Sectors 8,1 and 2 will shouw you the area.

From my notes:

Take the No. 13 bus across the bridge to

Piazzale Michelangelo near the Pitti Palace. Enjoy the wonderful view. Go a little further to the church of San Minatao. Then take the No. 12 from P. Michelangelo back the way you came to P. Ferucci and transfer to the D bus (going West) which takes you to the

Boboli Gardens (note 6) -- it's outside the Pitti Palace. Open 0900 - 19:30 gardens not well tended, spectacular view from the Kaffee Haus in the Boboli Gardens Also the palace Palatine Gallery

Walk back by way of the Ponte Vecchio. OR you can take the D bus going west to FSMN station. OR take the D going East to Pzza Ferucci and transfer to the #13 and

Return to the Piazzale Michelangelo for an aperitif & watch the sun go down.
Go home by way of the #12 or 13 to hotel.


Hope this helps.

dear Ira and everyone, my daughter and I had a fabulous trip back in April, had no problems with accomodation booked thru venere.com or pickpockets, just took normal precautions as here in Sydney. Planning to attend conference in Prato next year if anyone has been there??? Orvieto we did as day trip from Florence would love to stay at converted monastery there. From now on would stay out of main towns, thank you for advise

Pleased to have helped, woodsie.

it keeps the penis more sensitive too.

Hey, Ira, we had an absolutely wonderful trip to Italy in May. Enjoyed stay at Mr. Ancillotti's and loved the food at the Indian restaurnant in Florence as well! Thanks for all your tips - it made planning this trip so much easier!

Glad you enjoyed your trip, vids.

Are you planning on giving us a trip report?

I sure do want to post my trip report! I have numerous notes I made in my travel journal and I am looking forward to assembling my notes in a coherent fashion.... some day... some day! Already a little busy planning a road trip to LV/Zion/Bryce....

Ira, Thank you for such an amazing trip report. I see you wrote this almost a year ago. Thank you for sharing. I'm adding it to my Italy folder.
- Sharon

ginn- I know the hotel continental and stayed there once. I thought it was a very good deal, and would recommend it. It is family owned (3 brothers) and has a nice personal touch. It is a little outside the center of town, but you can walk to the little beach.

For those who might be interested:

I have posted some pix of Praiano at http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34451044

I shall add more photos as time permits.

Ira... wrong URL, this is this thread's addy!

OK Ira, Are you getting a head start on me with those martinis again?

Oh Lord,

No I didn't need a martooni to mess up.

Try http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=26461234706&page=1&sort_order=0

This is better! I wish I was there now... sigh... the deepest sigh!

topping

Ira, how nice to see Praiano from the sea, it is a nice perspective.

Is this a little tease, then you are going to show us some more pics?

Hi SU,

God willin' and the creek don't rise, I shall post more pix.

Wonderful photos thanks Ira. I was hoping to see a pic of you and your lady wife though!

>I was hoping to see a pic of you and your lady wife though!<

We don't do that anymore. We have found that it makes too many people unhappy at their own squalid lives when they see our gorgeous figures, physignomy and attire.

Ira, great pictures - and as always you make me laugh!

wait, you took 709 photos and I think you only posted 8?

what's the hold up?

Ira, is the B&B Peterson located on the right of the train station (toward the Duomo) or on the left site.
I received a reply from the Peterson that a triple room is available, the price is Super..

Hate to post as you all will know how "dumb" I am, but I cannot pull up these pictures. That ofoto site seems to require member/password. I really would like to see ira's pics as he was such a great help to us when we planned out trip. What is the exact thing I need to do?

Hi kismet,

Facing the tracks, with your back to the big signboard exit the train station to your left, go down the stairs and cross the street. Turn right and go up Via L. Alamanni.

This way you avoid the parked motos and cars and will be on the same side of the street with B&B.

Hi mimi,

Open an email account at www.yahoo.com. Use this accoount to register with ofoto.

Hi Ira-

I can't seem to pull up your pictures either... I did register with ofoto directly, but when I pasted the link into the address window, I received a message saying "the link you are using is no longer valid"... Any idea?

Thanks!

I got the same message -

Album Not Found


The link you are using is no longer valid. If this link was sent to you in an email and you would like to view the photos, you will need to contact the album owner and have them share the album using Ofoto's share feature.

I am feeling smarter now that others are having the same problem. Notice I said "feeling."

Hi Guys,

I apologize. I did not link this message to my new set of Italy photos.

Go to http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34552733

It will give you links to all of my albums.

Thanks for your interest.

Ira - after now successfully contacting Il Rivoloto for a reservation, mainly on the strevgth of your numerous recommendations ( backed by what seems to be a horde of others), I have spent the afternoon going through numerous threads trying to find a comparable view on any restaurant in Rome.

Unfortunately THERE ARE TOO MANY SUGGESTIONS, so as to make one's head spin.

Could you please advise as to whether you have any particular favourites in terms of quality, and ambience.

Thanks in advance.

Could you take the time to advise as to the names of any restaurnt

Ira has not spent any time in Rome, although he has stayed at the Holiday Inn (I think) in EUR before a flight out of Fiumicino.

Thanks Eloise, but maybe the Holiday Inn cafeteria is all that someone who mis-names Il Ritrovo deserves.

In any event, can some other experienced Rome traveller help?

For excellent restaurant recommendations in Rome, look for Grinisa's posts (type <Grinisa>, without the arrows, into the Search Box.

Excelent travel report. I, too, used Renato Cuomo's car services. Excellent. He picked us up in Naples, drove us to Pompeii, waited on us to take the tour, and then drove us to our hotel in Sorrento. He then picked us up the next morning and drove us along the Amalfi coast to Ravello, stopping along the way at various places, including Positano and Amalfi. In Florence, if B&B Peterson is booked, try the www.TouristHouseGhiberti. We stayed there near the Duomo and loved it. Only 7 rooms and very elegant. 138E cash price. A great new hotel in Rome is Hotel Teatropace33. about 100 ft. from the Piazza Navona. 39-066879075 We loved the room and the location. Roberto and Fabrizio were wonderful hosts.

Why didn't you stay in Rome for a few days before going straight to Florence? I am new here so I am guessing you are a traveler? My husband and I, and 2 teen-agers are flying in/out of Rome. Wish we were going to Venice then leave Rome. So I need to figure out a good plan for July 2005.

Hi anitabelle
>Why didn't you stay in Rome for a few days before going straight to Florence?

Because my Lady Wife and I are not all that interested in Rome. We will get there one day.

>...I need to figure out a good plan for July 2005. <

I've replied on your thread.

Have a nice visit.

Wow - what a great report. I just read it for the second time in preparation for my capri/positano/rome trip on April 24th. Thanks again for such an informative report.

Did you happen to go to any beaches in Positano?

Hi cj,

Thank you for the kind words.

Links to pix of the beach at Positano and other parts of the AC can be found at
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34552733

Dear Ira, what a wonderful, detailed report. I love the story about the gate You obviously planned it all to perfection, and you're off to France in September! Lucky you.

Ira, "The mountains blush because the dawn finds them sleeping"

Easily the best single sentence on this site.

excellent effort on the report - thanks.

Thanks for the kind words, juju.

ATML

Hi yoony,

Is "ATML" a compliment?

Hi ira,

It's my way of keeping a great post for my future references. You can say it's an ultimate compliment as I am very selective saving a post in my history.

ATML = Adding to my list.

I'm off to Europe tomorrow. Thanks for providing so much useful info.

Thank you, yoony.

Happy to help.

Have a nice visit.

Ira, I have just started to read your Italy trip report. So far I am loving it. I am hoping to go to Italy next year so I will be using your report as a guide.

Thank you

Karen

You're welcome, M.

Ira, great report! Thank you for pulling up the Italy superthread. Italy is going to be our 2-wks vacation destination in Jul 2006.

Dear Ira,
I am truly enjoying your comments/thoughts. We are going to Rom from USAir Phil next Sunday Afternoon..arriving in Rome 8:40 (your plane was 20min late)...then off to Venice on the train...tired...should we buy our train tickets now? How? Reservation?Tickets?Seats? What site should we use? We are traveling w/2 kids 11&13. Thank you! In Florence we will eat, as recommended at Il Ritrovo. What about Venice? You seem to really know things!

Hi h2,

Glad to help.

Almans,
I responded on your other thread.

Ira, this is my first read of this wonderful report. Now that I'm back from Provence I have time to read the 'whole' Europe thread.

Poor DH doesn't know I have several future trips churning in my head for a few years from now.

After spending 11 nights in Florence, and sightseeing other cities from there, did you feel you were doing a lot of backtracking when you returned to Florence each night?

Hi hope,

>did you feel you were doing a lot of backtracking when you returned to Florence each night?<

No. Our daytrips were all about 1 hr by train or bus.

My Lady Wife was quite happy to not have to pack or unpack for 11 nights.

For Venice, we took one small bag.

You do have to be careful about schedules. For example, we couldn't have dinner in Siena because the last train left too early (we don't like dinner before about 8:00).

Have fun planning your next trip.

Hi, ira. My daughter's been very pleased with snapfish.com for her photos. Not sure whether they have a limit....
Great report. Felt I was with y'all!

Thanks, sally

Ira: need help - I called for reservation for the Uffizi Gallery for June 9th (10am or any time that day) - they are really sold out for all June....I tried several websites - no room in the inn....what should I do (at this point it looks like a long wait that morning)....

Hi almans,

I replied on the other thread.

You might just have to get there early.

CAN YOU PLS. TELL ME THE COST OF THE TRIP FROM AIRPORT TO ROME TERMINAL THEN ON TO FLORENCE......ROUND TRIP? GOING IN DEC. AND NEED TO BUDGET. DID YOU GET THSE TIX IN US B4 YOUR TRIP OR AT THE AIRPORT? THANKS

Ira: I got the pizza in Rome under control. We are going to be staying for 4 nights at the Mozart Hotel at the bottom of the Spanish Steps. Do you have any dinner favorites. We dine well - but, here I would rather have less touristy wonderful without the 5* fuss....thoughts? Also, you seem to live near Atlanta - where?

Hi almans,

Can't help with dining in Rome.

Hi pvd

The Leonardo da Vinci train from FCO to Roma TE is 9.5E.

Prices and schedules from Rome to Florence are at www.trenitalia.com. If you travel on Saturday, they have 15E special.

For December, you needn't buy your tickets in advance, unless you are there around Xmas.

You can buy all of your train tickets at the train station in FCO.

Thankyou Ira for your help. I have looked at your section on Naples and many others. Fascinating

My Fiance wants to take my wheelchair to Italy we are going to Sorrento then Naples. I am not sure if it is a good idea as we will also have luggage and do not know if the streets of Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, Naples is very suitable for wheelchair users. I do not need my wheelchair all the time but can only walk for about 1-2 hours before I am in a lot of pain. I have a disc disease which is worsening but am desperate to go back to Italy (as I have already been to Rome Venice and Florence) before I am totally wheelchair bound. Any suggestions. Can you hire wheelchair in sorrento for a week.

Thanks Bubbles

Hi bubbles,
This is a very late reply but I just wanted to say that I went on a trip several years ago with a lady who had a small wheeled chair that was not what I consider a wheelchair. It was small enough to fold up and I believe it was motorized. There were some places she could not go but this was a very useful thing for her. It was smaller than a regular wheelchair and folded. You might want to consider one of these. Also I was on another trip with a lady who used one of those walking sticks with a small seat attached so she could sit when necessary. Happy travels.

Hi bubbles,

Please forgive me for being so late in replying, but I seem to have missed your post.

If you have a reasonably light-weight chair you can navigate Sorrento and Naples by walking uphill and riding down.

Much of Naples is fairly flat, but you do have to watch out for cobblestones.

The towns of the AC; Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, etc; are very vertical. I suggest that you take the bus from Sorrento to Amalfi and the ferry back (or VV)

I hope that this got to you in time.

Bravo, ira! Every time I start to read this, I get hungry!

Ira, Thanks - just stumbled on your report. Great tips & lots of chuckles.

Glad you liked it, B.

Ira,

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the wealth of information!!!

Absolutely fantastic and imminently useful!

Glad you liked it, Mac.

Ira - I know your post is from a while back...I just wanted to tell you I think it's great and I am taking many of your pointers and suggestions as I plan my honeymoon! We are leaving August 12 to go to Paris, Venice, Florence and Rome...your information is priceless. I think the people on this forum are great!

Thanks for the kind words, beph.

Happy honeymooning.

topping for Whitelake

bookmarking

Ira, do you remember how much the airfare was at that time?

Hi Dukey,

We paid $733.50 pp RT ATL/FCO.

PS that was Sept, 2003.

Thanks, Ira, for that info.

bookmark

bookmarking

bookmarking
ira, any chance I can buy you and LW dinner at Le Maison Bleu in exchange for a private travel consultation?

Hi Starrs,

You can find me at irablock@yahoo.com

No need to bribe me, but I was tempted to accept your offer.

Accept it! It would be my pleasure!
I loved the video of your time with hdm and SO in France. They had such a nice time with you and LW.
Many thanks,

topping

Thank you so much for such a delightful and informative read.

Need input please - am taking my parents (80 and 84) to Naples and Florence in March, 2013. Would like input on ease of getting around Amalfi coast with them as neither can walk great distances and has difficulty walking up stairs. Am considering hiring a car for travel along the coast - what towns would be easier to visit? Would Capri be a possibility with them? I understand there is very little car traffic on Capri? Will fly into Naples and stay in that area as a base(or somewhere on the coast) for 3 nights and then take train to Florence to stay for 4 nights. Thanks for any suggestions. Cathy

ncbonvivant, you have accidently posted a question on this trip report. People will be reading it to get information rather than answer questions. You will get more advice if you start a thread for yourself and post your question there.

Hi Cathy,

As Sass suggests, you ought to start your own thread.

If you are staying in Naples, you can take the Trenitalia train to Salerno and go on to Paestum if your folks would like that (it's flat).

You can then return by SITA bus from Salerno to Sorrento via Amalfi, which will take you along the coast road. From Sorrento, take the Circumvesuviana train to Napes.

OR,

You can take the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento, the ferry to Amalfi and the SITA bus back.

When in Naples, "The Veiled Christ" at the Capella Sansevero and the Archaeological Museum are "must sees".

Enjoy your visit.