Ira,

Welcome back! I like the new format - looking forward to more.

Ira, welcome home! I'm looking forward to the rest of your report; you always provide such helpful nd interesting information.

I'd love to learn all about your newly discovered bus routes plus any old favourites because I'm a fan of using buses to tour the town and save the feet.

Ira: Your reports are always interesting and helpful. Planning to go to Zurich in the very near future.
Would like you to comment on some wonderful dishes you tasted as well as some souvenirs you happened to buy. What about chocolate shop names. Thanks.Waiting for your report!

Ira: Sorry, just noticed you have already replied to my post earlier. Thanks again!

Superb...at first glance, sounds as if you and LadyWife are both fit and fine. Can't wait for more of your report.

Thank you in advance.

Gruezi Ira,

Welcome back! Looking forward to hearing more - esp. the restaurants.

gruezi

As always anything Ira posts i read

As for Miscellaneous notes

Ira - were Europeans you met as agog over Obama as those i met this winter?

nearly everyone i met was rooting for Obama.

I love Ira's posts also. (To answer PalenQ, I would say that at least 80% of the French support Obama.)

Actually, what I was wondering about is the Hôtel Bonaparte. Ira, if it suddenly burned down, do you know at which hotel you would want to stay in Paris?

Hotel de Ville?

Hi, Ira. I, too, always enjoy your posts. We are all waiting for more.
Judy

Welcome Back, ira!
Sounds like a lovely trip

The restaurant is very, very good. I am particularly fond of the spaetzle.>>

hi Ira, me too. I've tried making my own but with little success and the ones we bought in the german supermarket didn't travel too well. what did they serve with the spaetzle? i particularly like them with the venison stews you often get in germany/austria.

looking forward to more,

regards, ann

Hi PQ,

>Ira - were Europeans you met as agog over Obama as those i met this winter?

nearly everyone i met was rooting for Obama.<

I try not to discuss politics when abroad. I mean, who cares whether Sarkozy's wife is a supermodel?

However, from the magazines and newspapers that I saw, I would say that the majority of France and Germany, if not all of Europe, favored Obama over the other possibilities.
.................................
Hi K,

>...what I was wondering about is the Hôtel Bonaparte. Ira, if it suddenly burned down, do you know at which hotel you would want to stay in Paris?<

Oh, that is a tough one.
................................
Hi M,

>I'd love to learn all about your newly discovered bus routes...

The 84 runs between Porte de Champerret and the Panthéon. You get a good view of some of the more popular sights. Very good for visiting the Parc Monceau.

The 63 will take you from St. Sulpice almost to the door of the new Branly Museum.

The 86 will take you from St. Sulpice all the way to the zoo.
...................................

Thanks to all for the welcome backs.

Bookmarking, as there is always something of great interest in an Ira trip report that I wish to incoporate into one of my future trips!

I always read Ira's post.
I look forward to more information on your trip, Ira.

Ira,

Based on some of your previous posts about the Hotel Bonaparte, we booked a room for 6 nights in October at the hotel. Is Room #23 worth asking for? Does it have a decent view? Does it have an American-style shower? Other than those two things, my husband and I are not fussy travellers. Looking forward to reading more about your trip.

frebreta,

We stayed at the Bonaparte in May 2006, although not in room 23. Our room had a full size tub with a hand held shower sprayer, but no curtain or shower door. The floor got a bit wet, but the bathroom was large and the tub was, too.

I don't think any of the rooms at the Bonaparte have too much of a view. The rear rooms face an internal couryard looking at the backs of other buildings, and the front rooms should have a view of the Rue Bonaparte, which is a narrow street.

The great thing about the hotel is it's location. Step out the front door, turn left, walk about forty feet, and stare to your left at the plaza in front of the church of St. Sulpice (made somewhat famous by the book "The Davinci Code"). What a terrific plaza, a beautiful church, and a nice small cafe where we stopped a couple of times a day. Cafe de la Theresa, or something similar, I think.

Terrific hotel in a great location. Our only complaint was the air conditioning was not terribly effective.

Welcome back, Ira! Thanks for the hotel information. I'm looking forward to the next installment.

Here's another "Welcome Home."

I'm looking forward to the rest of your report. We all know that nobody can describe a dinner as well as you.

Byrd (who owns what is probably the only spaetzle-maker in south Alabama)

Hi all,

Installment 1 of the Restaurant reviews:

B. Restaurants
Zurich
TimeOut Restaurant at the Hotel St. Josef. . . A pleaant room with interesting art work on the wall (much of which changes color), good, professional service, food is well prepared and nicely presented.
May is spargle (white asparagus) season, and I love spargle. The sparg;e special was worth every penny of the 45 CHF. However, the hit of the night was the zander wrapped in zucchini and sautéed. 3 course menu for two with a bottle of Fendant (light, fruity, dry) 125CHF($115)

BistroKiosk Marion. . . A local resto, with a very friendly atmosphere, close to the hotel. Schnitzel with noodles (the noodles were particularly good) for myself and sautéed plaice for Roberta. The “igloo” ice cream concoction for dessert was pleasant. Two 3-course dinners with a bottle of Rioja Blanco – 93CHF($86).

Ban Song Thai. . . A very good Thai resto. This was recommended by another Fodorite. We had various small dishes of very well prepared, flavorful and appealing thingies with just the right amount of heat. With a bottle of white wine and a tip – 122CHF($112)

The Bodensee
The Alte Post in Lindau. . . A very nice room with beamed ceilings, rippled glass, various chotchkes (you find a lot of that in German restos) on shelves around the walls. 1st-rate service.
Roberta had a blanc de noir aperitif – very bright, dry and mildly fizzy = the salad Caprese (very fresh) and the sauteed Felchinfilet (couldn’t determine what this fish might be called in English) in almond butter. I had a Farny Hofgutsbier (pale gold, with a good head, slightly hoppy) and the Wiener Tafelspitz (special that evening) which was very tender, moist and flavorful marinated beef with a freshly-grated horseradish sauce. We shared a dessert.
A very gemutlich evening – Dinner with 2 wines and 2 beers - 80E($125)

Weinstube Frey in Lindau. . . Located in a very old building, the back room of this restaurant (about 1650) is just terrific. Lots of atmosphere. Good home cooking.

Zum Sunfzen in Lindau. . . Pretty much a Lindau tradition. Very traditional German cooking, well done, well served, well presented. I particularly liked the Rinderleisch Ragout (beef stew) with semmel knoedle.

Schachener Hof. . . Easily reached by bus or train from Lindau, this restaurant in Enzisweiler is well worth the 10 min walk from the train station or the 20 min bus ride to the door.
The room is pleasantly furnished with an elegant, but simple, décor. The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming. Service is 1st class. Menus from 25 to 75E.
Amuse bouche of Asiatic vegetables in a sweet-sour marinade and a lemon foam – good combination.
My Lady Wife had the 35E menu. . . Cordon Bleu-stuffed ravioli crisp fried and served on a bed of lentils; 3 kinds of lake fish wrapped in a cabbage leaf (roulade) with vegetables, a new potate stuffed with Boursin cheese and caviar, and little fish-shaped croustillantes; dessert was a very imaginative dish consisting of a pastry boat filled with fruits floating on the Bodensee (green, minty gel) surrounded by ice cream mountains.
I had the 45E menu. . . appetizer of a 4-layer galantine of vegetables and smoked meats; entrée of prosciutto and parmesan, octopus with dill, house-made sausage with apple and cinnamon; curry soup with langouste; saddle of lamb with 3 kinds of beans and other veg; dessert of “variations on rhubarb” – rather interesting.
Wine was an Ausficht Weisburger 2007 – crisp, floral and spicy with a dry finish – 25E. A very fine dining experience for 2 with wine and tip – 110E($172)

Six min on the S-Bahn to Lochau, and a pleasant 10-min walk (unless it is cold, windy and raining) along a creek through fields and trees takes you to the corner of Landerstrasse and Pfänderstrasse. On this corner is the Café Mangold.
The door was locked. This was slightly disconcerting, as we had reservations. However, as we were about to turn away, a very pleasant older gentleman unlocked and opened the door and invited us in.
We stepped into what looked very much like a closed local bar. I told the gentleman our name and that we had reservations – in both German and English. He smiled, escorted us to a table and asked if we wanted a glass of wine. We said yes.
There then followed a very sharp discussion in the kitchen between the gentleman and his wife, which sounded much to us like an argument about why he had let us in. After 15 min with nothing happening, my Lady Wife certain that I had really messed up this time, and several more discussions with the older gentleman (who turned out to be mostly deaf), his wife realized that we were looking for the Restaurant Mangold – around the corner.

Mangold. . . Casually elegant, modern styling, but not edgy, the room is formal, but not oppressively so. Service is top notch, smooth and unobtrusive. Lovely views from the dining room.
Amuse bouche of baby spring vegetables and a bit of “chicken praline”.
LW had 3 fine claire oysters accompanied by brown bread and butter made into a layered torte, and a pinot blanc; Saiblingsfilet (a whitefish) with wild asparagus and rosti potatoes.
I had the 50E menu – appetizer of a terrine of very thin calamari and various greens (more cured than cooked), black sausage on toast, and lime sorbet; cream of pea soup (very light and frothy) with a langouste, and something that appeared to be a tiny egg, but was filled with coconut milk; main course of veal filet mignon with spargle and gnocchi; a 6-portion cheese platter.
Wine was a Prieler Chardonnay, which went very well with both dinners.
An excellent dinner (I have remarks like “superb”, “excellent”, “VVG” in my notes) for 135E($210).

Hi freberta
> Is Room #23 worth asking for?<

We like it because it is on the 5th floor facing the street. There is a bit of a view of rooftops and gardens.

It has a balcony that I can climb out on for a cigarette, since the hotel is no smoking.

It is one of the smaller rooms.

>Does it have an American-style shower?<

It's a telephone-style shower in a bath tub - no shower curtain.

You can mount the shower head high enough to use it as an American style shower.

Aloha Ira,
Welcome home

Due to a very negative experience with Le Meridian Montparnasse management in trying to ensure an accessible room (made through Priceline), we fianaly make a reservation at your favorite Paris hotel.

We don't enjoy staying at Le Meridian type hotels, but need to try to find accessible rooms as my husband uses a wheelchair and needs an accessible shower.

To make a long story shorter, if we stayed a Le Meridian, we would have had to pay alost 50% more to get an accesible room which felt like blackmail. Thus we made the decision to stay at Hotel Bonaparte for our 3 nights in Paris and enjoy the neighborhood and feel of a small hotel. Reservations went very smoothly and my husband will just have to bathe the "old fashioned way" for our nights in Paris.

Do you think room 23 would be any better for us with wheelchair than any of the other rooms? Stan can walk in the room whith his cane and manage stairs, if they are easy.

Thanks for your help, as always.

Ibis Hotels all have several rooms adapted for people with impaired mobility. I often have to use them when I take my mother anywhere these days. Sometimes the bathrooms are bigger than the bedrooms. (There are 45 Ibis Hotels inside the Paris city limits.)

Hi Ira,

We have room 28 at Hostellerie Schwendi, which I believe is 2 rooms for a family. I am looking forward to reading about the activities and sightseeing that you did in the area! This will be our first trip to Alsace.

Hi Ira,

Hope you had a great time and the best thing is that we get to read about your adventures. Sure to be another classic.
Was very interested to hear about Eiscafe Hotel Schreier in Lindau, sounds just like a winner and I love the rooms named after icecream. I haven't been able to find any prices on their website but it appears at that price it is way beyond our budget, however I will email them and keep my fingers crossed otherwise I shall have to hunt further.
Thanks for taking the time to post.

Hi G,

>Do you think room 23 would be any better for us with wheelchair than any of the other rooms? Stan can walk in the room whith his cane and manage stairs, if they are easy.<

Room 23 is fairly small. If the wheelchair folds, there is space at the entrance to put it against the wall.

He won't have to bother with stairs. They have an elevator, which can accomodate a person and the folded wheelchair. It might even be large enough for him to get in in the wheelchair.

If he has trouble getting in/out of a bathtub, they do have rooms with stand-up showers.

I suggest that you call them and let them know your requirements. Eric Lemaire is on duty from 8-4 Paris time. He speaks English very well.
..................................
Hi A,

> I am looking forward to reading about the activities and sightseeing that you did in the area! This will be our first trip to Alsace.<

In short, we stopped at every village on the Route du Vins from Obernai to Turckheim, took a drive through the southern part of the Vosges and another through the northern part, drove through the Black Forest to Baden Baden on the Schwarzwalder Hochstrasse, and visited Colmar for an afternoon.

I'm sure that you will love Alsace.
..................................
Hi M,

>... at that price it is way beyond our budget,...

I think that Vanilla is the most expensive room.

Hi all,

Restaurant reviews for Alsace follows:

Alsace
Hostellerie Schwendi in Kientzheim
Logis de France gives the Schwendi 3 chimneys, and I agree. They have a very nice dining room in the basement and the best spaetzle in Alsace.
One evening we each had the 31E menu.
My Lady Wife chose the escargots, stuffed trout in Riesling sauce, and the Kugelhopf with ice cream.
I had the veal terrine, Guinea hen and the cheese platter. Because they know I love their spaetzle, I was given a side order.
Wine was a 1994 Riesling Grand Cru. Very, very good. I didn’t realize that they could last so long.
A very nice, moderately priced dinner.

Winstub du Sommelier in Bergheim
www.wistub-du-sommelier.com/
A very traditional bistro-style room. Good service, good food and pleasant staff. A very large wine list. Menus from 21E.
Roberta had the smoked trout quenelles – very light and fluffy, gently smoked fish followed by whitefish fillet.
I had the smoked filet of trout and the Sandre – both just right.
We shared a dessert of 2 kinds of sorbet in eau de vie.
Wine was a Mittnacht 2004 Riesling – lots of greenery, violets and honey.
A very nice dinner among the locals - 90E($140) + tip

Blanche Neige in Labaroche
www.auberge-blanche-neige.fr
It is not really in Labaroche. It is in Les Evaux, as we discovered after we drove on twisting, winding roads to the top of the mountain. Fortunately, there was a large information sign and a friendly, elderly gentleman (who bikes up and down the mountain each morning and evening), who (in a mixture of French, German and English) who showed us the route to the restaurant. About halfway down, signs appeared showing the way, and we followed them to the absolute middle of nowhere and the parking lot. (Driving time 0:50 hr). Our return route was the easy way - 0:20 hr back to Kientzheim via Les Trois Epis.
The resto is a big old barn built on a hillside. The upstairs dining room has a terrific view of the mountains from one side and opens onto a garden on the other. Furnishings are elegantly rustic. Service was first rate, food was excellent. Menus from 39E.
Amuse bouche – a crispy bird’s nest with a prawn inside it and a cucumber puree.
LW had the Salmon/Sandre combination, the Scallops with Boudin sausage and the banana dessert.
I had the foie gras poele, scallops with white asparagus (different scallops from LW) and the “Chocolate Explorer”.
The pre-desert course was a glass of what appeared to be Cappuccino, but was an apple/cinnamon puree with whipped cream and vanilla foam.
The house Riesling and Pinot Noir were quite good.
A very nice dinner in a pleasant atmosphere – 150E($235) + tip

Auberge du Schoenenbourg Riquewihr
www.auberge-schoenenbourg.com/
A very pleasant room. Lots of art work on the walls and scattered about. This resto is next to the Best Western and gets a lot of business traffic. Service is very professional. The food is quite good.
Amuse Bouche 1: Smoked salmon and beets
Amuse Bouche 2: Prawns and vegetables with a citrus foam and a cold spring roll.
LW had the smoked salmon with eggplant, Sandre with veggies in a veal demi-glace and various exotic fruits with 3 flavors of sorbet.
I had the Seasonal Menu: “Reconstituted Gazpacho” – take all of the liquid out of a gazpacho soup, mold the vegetables and serve with both a tomato and a green pepper puree and a scoop of basil sorbet and a tuile cracker (very imaginative); Dorade with vegetables in a cream sauce; a sabayon of white chocolate with strawberry sorbet inside.
Pre-dessert was a gelled apricot, crouton with chocolate, tiny macaron, little glass of strawberry jelly with marshmallow foam.
The house wine was very nice. With beverages and a tip 160E($250)

Entertainment was provided by 5 gentlemen at the next table, who I thought were having a business dinner because of all of the paper work that they were passing around – charts, columns of information, graphs, etc.
However, they were having the Degustation Menu (7 courses) with a blind wine tasting. Such enthusiasm. Such passion. It was a jo to watch them enjoying their dinner.

However, the highlight of the evening was the drive back to Kientzhaim on the back roads through the vineyards. Nearly complete darkness except for the sky-glow of Colmar and a monster thunderstorm coming over the Visge mountains. Spectacular.

Auberge Frankenbourg in La Vancelle www.frankenbourg.com
Although we mistimed our arrival (19:00 instead of 20:00), the staff were unperturbed. We were seated on the terrace and given some wine and crunchies while they prepared the resto. 19:30 is a better time to arrive. By 20:00, the very pleasant room was nearly full.
We were seated at a table with a red cloth, instead of white, and two vases of flowers, at a point where we could see everyone (almost) in both rooms. A waiter immediately set down a piece of slate on which were two Chinese-style spoons and two little Chinese-style dishes, with stuff in them. After a while, we realized that these were amuse bouche no. 1. One was sautéed Asian vegetables (much like the innards of a spring roll. The other was a fish mousse. We enjoyed these along with a glass of the very good house Riesling.
Amuse bouche no. 2 consisted of a little cup of asparagus mousse garnished with a little flower, and a bit of grilled salmon with crème fraiche and caviar.
Roberta had the crab salad as an appetizer, Rouget for the main, and the chef’s prize-winning raspberry/chocolate dessert (well worth the calories).
I had the 44E menu of: duck foie gras, crab salad, carré de cochon roti, Munster cheese and blueberries with vanilla ice cream.
There were also a pre-dessert course of mixed fruits marinated in liqueur with a vanilla foam, and post-dessert course(or maybe this was a pre-coffee course).
Wine was a Blanck Riesling 2004.
Service was excellent and the dinner was superb – 150E($235) + tip.

MAXIMILIEN in Zellenberg www.le-maximilien.com/
Wunderbar – This resto has a Michelin rosette. It should have a star.
It sits near the top of a hill, with lovely views of the mountains from its spacious terrace and large windows. It is an open room decorated sparely, but very pleasantly. Service is attentive, smooth, and unobtrusive.
We began with an aperitif on the terrace – Cremant d’Alsace and a kir – which was accompanied by several small Flammekeuche.
After being escorted in for dinner, we found that we could not agree on what to have for the 8-course “Chef’s Surprise” (a not uncommon event) and chose the 61E Menu. This was more than sufficient.
Amuse bouche of a spoon of something from the sea – pleasantly briny – and a glass of crème fraiche with bits of smoked salmon topped with eggplant caviar.
A bowl of langoustines with a dollop of asparagus mousse and a sesame tuile cracker.
A cream soup of forest mushrooms.
Heavenly veau de lait wrapped with calves liver in a phyllo crust, with asparagus, carrots and mushrooms and a demi-glace for me.
Roberta had the roasted cod with bay pea-stuffed ravioli.
Fresh wild strawberries in a faintly chocolate sauce with basil-flavored ice cream and a sweet sesame tuile cracker.
The post-dessert offering with our coffee was a tray with a macaron, a little cake, a glass of chocolate mousse and a glass of orange mousse for each of us.
We also had a generous pour of a 1977 Armagnac.
Wines were a Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve 2004 for Roberta and a Pinot noir 2005 for me.
The house-baked rolls were delicious and intriguing. I particularly liked the whole wheat with lavender.
This was not a heavy meal. Think light and flavorful. Think calm and peaceful. A very, very enjoyable experience.
With tip 200E($300) and worth every sous.

Recognizing that the US dollar has taken a trouncing for several years now, is it just me or do the prices *still* seem to be high for dinner?

Great report as usual Ira. Thank you for posting!

waiting with excitement for Paris food!

I am enjoying eating vicariously with you and the LW. Thank you!

dwzemems-

As someone who eats out in Zurich once or twice a week, I think Ira did very well pricewise. I'm going to try his spots since we pay so much for often mediocre food and are always interested in trying something new.

Ira-

Dying to hear your Paris restaurants as I'm there next week. I vicariously enjoyed the other meals you've enticed us with....

gruezi

Ira - do you plan an annual trip or once every two years? we've been going to Europe at least once each year for the last 7 years...but with the dollar so weak, we just cannot justify a trip in 2008. Just wondering....when DH worked in walddorf, going over was an easy thing to do; now its a bit different.

Hi Ira:
Glad that you finally got to Maximilien's, and that your meal seems to have been excellent.
I don't understand the comment about the 'rosette', but perhaps I'm just slow today.

adeben,

if I may... michelin gives rosettes to recommended restaurants that don't quite get a star but nonetheless are worth a visit...

g.

Hi Gruezi,
Really? I'd be very interested to hear where you got the information about a 'rosette' being somewhat less than a 'star'. I've been regularly to a variety of restaurants in France with Michelin ratings, and I suspect that's news to the Red Michelin Guide, which has the following awards:
1,2 or 3 Stars (formerly officially referred to as 'rosettes', but, for many years, commonly being called 'stars'.

The BibGourmand, a caricature of the Michelin Man, awarded for "Good Food at Moderate Prices".

The "Coin" symbol, awarded for a good, cheap menu.

The "Grapes" symbol, awarded for a fine wine list.

The "Forks & Knives" symbol, awarded from 1 to 5, meaning "comfortable" to "luxurious".

I had always thought that 'Rosettes' and 'stars' were different names for the same symbol, and Maximilien's, to which I have been several times, is certainly a Michelin One-Star restaurant.

Could you please tell me the name of a restaurant in France that has been awarded a 'rosette' because it is not quite at 'star' standard: I have been unable to find one in the current listing.

my bad, adeban

The rosette is a star in Michelin. Looks like a rosette...not a star...

I must have confused this with another book I use wherein some restaurants don't meet the star standard but are given a rosette... I am running out the door but I'm sure later I'll figure out what I meant.

sorry!!

gruezi

Hi again, Gruezi,
Perhaps you mean the AA Guide to Restaurants (UK-based), which awards "Rosettes" from 1 to 5 in a similar manner to the Michelin Red Guide. It's a similar symbol but the AA Guide actually refers to its awards as "Rosettes".

Ira, I want to enjoy this over the weekend drinking my last bottle of alsacian white.

Hi DW,

>Recognizing that the US dollar has taken a trouncing for several years now, is it just me or do the prices *still* seem to be high for dinner?<

I'm reporting on the better places we went to. Yes, in some cases the prices are higher than what we would spend at home, except for special occasions.

However, here in my little town in rural GA it generally costs us about $160(110E) for dinner for 2 with wine, tax and tip at places that aren't worth writing about.

There are many, many restos where you can have a pleasant, 2-course meal for under 25E.
.................................
Hi CM,

>do you plan an annual trip or once every two years?

Usually, about every 18 mos, or so, eg, May 2008, Sept 2009, May 2010.
.................................
Hi A,

>I don't understand the comment about the 'rosette',...

Like G, I was under the impression that the red rosette meant not quite 1 star.

Thank you for the correction.

Welcome back, reading your report is like meeting up again with an old friend. Looking forward to the next installments.

Hi Ira,

I'm enjoying your report and look forward to future installments. I'll be staying in Colmar for three nights next month; I've read in guidebooks that some of the route du vin villages are serviced by buses from Colmar. I would be curious to know which, in your opinion, are "must-see" villages.

Susan

Hi S,

>which, in your opinion, are "must-see" villages.<

There is a bus from Colmar Gare to Kaysersberg and Kientzheim. I'm sorry, but I didn't write the number down.

It leaves from the bus stands to the far right as you face the station. They are opposite a cafe. 4.6E pp RT.

If you get off in Kaysersberg, you can easily walk to Kientzheim (about 1km).

Michelin gives Kaysersberg 2*.

Kientzheim is an old walled village that was also important in the WWII battle of Colmar.

We like it very much.

The two towns together are worth at least 1/2 day.

Riquewihr (3* from Michelin) is about 2.5 km from Kientzheim. If you like walking, it is a pleasant route through the vineyards.

Ribeauville is also very nice.

I don't know how to get to the latter 2 by bus.

Enjoy your visit.

Hi all,

Here are my resto reviews for

Paris
For those more budget conscious than we, I offer:
Bistrot La Grille, where we usually have our first dinner in Paris, because it is a typical French resto, close to the hotel, relatively cheap, and we are not in the mood for a dining experience.
1 grand salad Niçoise (and it is large), 1 andouillete (very pungent) and 4 glasses of wine – 44.5E($70) +tip.

Au Chien Qui Fume , just outside the entrance to Les Halles on Rue du Pont Neuf. My Lady Wife says that the onion soup was better than at Pied au Cochon. That, a smoked fish platter (very good) and 1/c carafe of white Burgundy – 37E($58) + tip

Pizza Vesuvio (across the street from Eglise St. Germaine des Pres) – 2 menus of salad, pizza and dessert with 1/2 carafe of house wine – 47E($73) + tip

Leon de Bruxelles on Blvd St Germain – 2 menus, 4 beverages and 2 coffees 58E($90)

Café Chappe, 8 rue Tardieu (near Abesses Metro) – the Salade Auvergne with cantal cheese was very good, as was the Croque Monsieur. Didn’t care for the Grimbergen beer – too sweet. Prices about the same as Bistrot La Grille.

Fish (La Boissoniere). . . A nice place with good food and pleasant service. 2 course menu 31.5E, 3 courses for 36.5E.
Roberta had the Pea soup (which she liked very much) and the steamed pike perch.
I had the terrine de fois gras (quite good)and the rouget.
We shared a lemon/orange tart, of which we both approved, along with a bottle of “Cerise” St. Magdeleine – 2004. I had a very nice Chateauneuf du Pape to go with my foie gras, and LW had a Vouvray that she found very nice. A very pleasant evening – 115E($180) + tip

Le Ferrandaise www.laferrandaise.com
The owners raise this breed of bovine, and they are enthralled by them. Cow pictures all over the room. Very pleasant atmosphere and good service.
Amuse bouche 1: New radishes with herb butter, paté de compagne, sourdough bread. All fresh and flavorful.
Two vin blanc for an aperitif.
Amuse bouche 2: Small glass of veal consommé.
For Roberta: iced bean and bacon soup – a potage of potatoes, beans, cucumbers and leeks topped with bacon and chive; Sea Perch in a Parmesan crust and a tomato stuffed with vegetables, artichokes and farmer’s cheese; strawberries in their own juice topped with mint leaves and a mint cream sauce with tuile crackers.
For me, the 32E menu: Marinated salmon with a confit of red onions and a salad; roast Poulet de Bresse (1 leg and 1/2 breast) with an apple/beet salad (PdB really is a very good chicken); cheese tray – 3 kinds – served with a basket of another kind of bread.
1 L of house white + 1 glass, coffee for 2.
All very, very good. Service was reasonably efficient (place was full), staff was very pleasant, owner was watchful.
Excellent value for the money – 90.5E($140) + tip.

Maison du Jardin
A slightly more formal room than La Ferrandaise with equally good service and food (Roberta thought that the fish was better).
We each had the 31E menu.
For LW: Iced gazpacho – better than most; Salt Cod and mashed potatoes with olive oil; strawberry soup with basil sorbet – best she had.
For me: Duck paté de compagne, slow-cooked lamb served en croute with egg[lant – very, very good; tiramisu.
1/2 bottle of graves for me and 3 house white for LW.
Highly recommended – 85E($130) + tip.

TAILLEVENT... www.taillevent.com
Not for people who say, “I eat to live. I don’t live to eat”, nor for foodies with jaded pallets looking for the latest cutting-edge offerings from molecular gastronomists. They offer excellent dining in an atmosphere of subdued luxury.
As we strolled up the avenue to the entrance, the doorman greeted us as if we had arrived in a Daimler, opened the door and turned us over to three gentlemen and a lady in the anteroom.
One gentleman checked our name off the reservations list, the lady divested us of our travel umbrellas, and another gentleman escorted us to our table in the Lammenais room where, with the aid of two other gentlemen (to pull out and reposition the table), my Lady Wife was ensconced on the banquette and I was seated. (Enthroned would be a mild exaggeration.)
The room is relatively plain, (old oak paneling, a few flower arrangements some objets d’art), quiet and very comfortably furnished.
Our aperitif order was taken by a uniformed footman, who soon returned with a glass of vin de la maison (a Pouilly Fuissé ) for LW and a kir for me.
The proper means of making a kir: set wine glass on table, add kir, swirl, let rest. Repeat. Add wine, a little at a time while swirling. (I can’t say that the method of preparation necessarily improved the drink, but it was a good kir.)
Our orders were taken by a waiter. The wine steward soon arrived, having been informed of our order, to offer his advice.
Amuse bouche: A tomato gel with a tiny mozzarella egg and greens, topped with a bit of crème fraiche.
Entrees: Roberta had the smoked salmon. This came as a bowl of what appeared to cream of tomato soup with a dollop of sour cream, but was actually a mousse of lightly smoked salmon with a quenelle of basil-flavored ice cream.
I had the poached egg with asparagus and mushrooms – a more traditional presentation.
Since we usually offer each other tastes from our dishes, I was caught with my fork halfway to Roberta’s bowl of salmon mousse by our footman who offered me a “tasting dish”. One doesn’t take things from each other’s silverware, nor reach into another’s plate. The diner scoops a bit of stuff out with a spoon and sets it on the tasting dish, which is then passed by the footman.
Mains: Rouget for LW and duck breast with apricots were served without fancy garnishes or towers of stuff, just straightforward excellent food.
Cheese course: A spoonful of raw milk chevre wrapped in scallions and topped with a bit of fried chive and tapenade.
Varioous house-made rolls were offered as the meal progressed.
Dessert: A chocolate/raspberry confection for me (you can see it on the website) and a peach tart for Roberta.
Coffee was served with an assortment of tiny cakes and pastries.
Wines were chosen by the wine steward. They were very good, went well with the courses, and were priced from the middle of the menu, but I have no idea what they were.
After refusing an invitation to call a taxi, we arose from the table (I pushed my chair back a few inches and waited – it took a count of two for a waiter to assist me. Two others extracted LW from behind the table.), were escorted to the ante room where the umbrella lady was waiting for us, along with the gentlemen who had greeted us upon arrival. We were very pleasantly thanked for honoring the establishment with our presence and escorted out the door.
You might note that I have not graced each course with descriptions such as “very good” or “superb”, etc. This does not mean that they weren’t. It would be superfluous to keep writing “outstanding”.
A wonderful experience in being treated like royalty (or at least rich and famous). 209E($325) + tips.

Thanks for the suggestions regarding buses/villages, Ira. I'm enjoying reading about the restaurants. Looking forward to more installments. S

Hi all,

Here is the last installment:

C: What we did
Limo pickup to ATL, check in and boarding flight uneventful, except for a 0:30 hr delay. Arrived Zurich about 0:15 hr late. Return from CDG also uneventful. We flew Delta RT this time because the AF flight was $300 pp more. Seats 25E,F (on the aisle) give a good view of the large TV screen.
Arr Zurich, collected luggage followed signs to SBB. Got on line to buy 2 Zurich passes – worth the money because you get free transport to/from the airport, free rides on the trolleys, free admission to most of the Zurich sights, and a free RT to Uetliburg (pronounced Ütliberg).
There was a minor incident with a twit who just walked up and got in line in front of me. If he had explained that it was because he had had to go back to get his passport, it would have saved both of us some adrenalin.
Arrived at the Zurich train station. Construction work caused a detour of a few blocks to the St. Josef hotel. Although it was only about 09:30 our room was ready. Set ourselves down. Unwound from the flight. Took a walk down by the river, saw some of the Old Town.

Zurich . . .During our stay, we visited the Zoological Gardens – very nice, but because of rain we were limited to the indoor conservatory; wandered through Old Town; took the train to Uetliberg, a little town up in the mountains – great views; went to the Landesmuseum – nice exhibits of prehistoric Switzerland and a very interesting building – especially the rooms taken from various houses (1500 – 1800); took the train to Luzern - a very nice city with a lovely waterfront and some interesting art and architecture.
Church bells rang at various odd hours during the day – charming.

Lindau and the Bodensee. . . The train ride to Lindau was enlivened by a very drunk, but not unpleasant, gentleman and 4 old biddies (there is no other way to describe them) returning from a shopping trip, who were outraged that people were sitting in 2 of the 4 seats that they had reserved. Even after other passengers offered to rearrange the seating, they insisted that they had to sit only in those seats. The two offenders claimed, in French, to speak no German or English. When addressed by the conductor (who arrived just in the nick of time) in French, they claimed not to understand that either.
Order was restored when the miscreants got off at the next station.
Lindau is a very pleasant town of old houses (1600’s) and new villas (1890’s), with pleasant parks, an old wall, and beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We took the train to St. Gallen for the Cathedral and the Monastery Library (well worth the ride). I was amused to find a soccer court hidden away in one of the inner courts of the Monastery. A picture of a number of tonsured Brother Cadfaels running about in ther robes came immediately to mind.
We took the train to Friedrichshafen Stadt station and the bus to Meersburg. A very nice old town that is worth visiting for about 1/2 day. We much enjoyed the bottle of Meersburg Bengal Spaetburgunder that we bought at the wine coop.
The weather remained overcast, windy, chilly and rainy, so we elected to skip Mainau this visit, but our spirits were lifted by the ringing of bells throughout the week.

Alsace. . . We took the train to Strasbourg via Friedrichshafen and Stuttgart. As we passed Ravensburg, we noticed the towers (A fellow passenger told us that the town has 14 of them.) and we could see the spire of the Munster of Ulm. There is such a thing as a free lunch. Even though we had paid only 19E PREMS fare for our 1 cl tickets (same as for 2 cl) we got a pleasant lunch, with wine.
We picked up the car in Strasbourg at the Europcar office across the street from the train station. Very nice, helpful staff. We had contracted for a Volkswagen Golf, but they gave us a Renault Laguna Diesel - very plush. Diesel ran from 1.44 to 1.61E/L. Car, with AT, got 30 mpg, mostly on mountains.
Stopped by Haut Konigsberg, for the views, on the way to Kientzheim. Arrived at the Hostellerie Schwendi in time for a short stroll and a bottle of Pinot Gris d’Alsace on the balcony before dinner.
Lots of car clubs (Lotus, Morgan, Benz, Porsche, antique, etc) all over the region this week.
We visited all of the towns along the Route du Vins between Obernai and Turckheim, mostly along the bike routes; drove two loops through the Vosges; visited the Black Forest with a stop at Gengenbach (worth a detour if you are in the vicinity) before driving the Schwarzwalder Hochstrasse to Baden Baden and on to Strasbourg and return; took the bus to Colmar where we visited the Unterlinden Museum and Petite Venise, went to the butterfly exhibit at Hunnawihr; saw two nuts in Dambach-la-Ville (a very small town) who were blocking the road – each refusing to back up. After a few minutes of watching them argue in a very Gallic manner, I drove onto the sidewalk and went around them. I wonder what happened when the tour bus that we passed got to their corner.
Is it possible to see too many charming Alsatian villages? Yes.
Can one sip too many Alsatian wines? Yes.
Can you get tired of nesting storks? Yes
We spent 7 nights in Kientzheim. Next time we will do 5 nights in one of the villages and 2 nights in Strasbourg without a car.

Paris. . . Took the TGV Est from Strasbourg. It goes really, really fast. My Lady Wife says that this is the last time she is taking the Metro with luggage. I think that that is only because the weather went from chilly and damp to hot and humid. However, when we arrived limp and sweaty at the Bonaparte, we were taken up to our room without the usual check-in formalities. Thank G-d for air conditioning and a shower.
Highlights of our Paris visit: The Orangerie, where Monet’s “Nympheas” (Water Lilies) are displayed the way they were meant to be seen. In addition, the Guillame collection has been very well arranged to give an historical insight into the development of the impressionists and their contemporaries;
Fete-de-St Germain – in the Pl St. Sulpice; Fete de La Dordogne near Sacre Coeur, where we got some Cabeçou,
Malmaison – be aware that Malmaison is outside Zone 1. You can get there with your Metro ticket, but you have to pay extra to get out. For the return you can buy tickets to Paris from the automatic machines, but you need bills smaller than a 20E;
Auvers-sur-Oise – a very pleasant town where Van Gogh spent his later years. Definitely not touristy. We stopped in at a creperie that advertised that it was open from 11:30 to 14:30 at 13:45 and were told that we could not be seated (c’est impossible). Don’t go on Monday or Tuesday – all of the Van Gogh related museums are closed.
Museé Nissim Camondo – beautiful and tragic, and the Parc Monceau.
Note to self: Do not make reservations at Les Ombres at the Museé Branly, where you will not get back to the hotel until after midnight, if your Lady Wife has to get up at 05:00 to get to the airport by 08:30.

D. Miscellaneous notes:
Paris fashion notes: push-up bras and lots of cleavage. I didn’t notice anything else.

Thanks to all who helped me put this visit together, and there were many. Hope that this report helps others.

Ira, you always enlighten me about what visitors see in Paris that I don't see myself.

kerouac are you referring to the push up bras? LOL! I don't remember my husband mentioning that. We were too busy looking DOWN as I was the first to christen my shoes with merde du chien.

Great report IRA! I just got home from France as well and my report is posted. Cheers!!!!

Ira, does your Lindau hotel have an elevator? It's not included in the mod cons listed on their web site. For my mother, an elevator is necessary.

Great trip report. My daughter and I just returned from Paris on Friday.We followed you recommendation and stayed at the Hotel Bonaparte room #22. We loved the small balcony with geranium filled window boxes. The hotel staff was very accommodating. I think we took those same bus routes. Thanks for your help in the past.

Hi BT,

>Ira, does your Lindau hotel have an elevator?

Unfortunately, no.
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Hi D,

Glad you enjoyed your stay at the Bonaparte.

Happy to have helped.

Thank you for a wonderful trip report, Ira. Your description of Taillevent has made me start saving for our next trip to Paris. Had given up, because of the Euro, but --- maybe ---

Did you dine at Les Ombres? If so, I can't find the restaurant review in your report?

Hi J,

Re Les Ombres:

>Note to self: Do not make reservations at Les Ombres at the Museé Branly, where you will not get back to the hotel until after midnight, if your Lady Wife has to get up at 05:00 to get to the airport by 08:30.<

We will go to Les Ombres next time.

Ira,
Thanks for the entertaining report! I had a laugh-out-loud moment over the fashion trend in Paris. I leave for Switz & Alsace in a few weeks -- all by train/bus. Next year, France. I'll look into the Bonaparte in Paris. Looks like a good location. Thanks! S

bookmark!

OMG, we must have shocked them terribly at Taillevant when we actually ate a half portion of a dish and then picked it up and switched plates. No one informed us of the 'tasting plate'. We won't be able to show our faces there again. Could I be gauche and ask if this was dinner or lunch?

Ira:

A superb report--as usual. Most enjoyable and highly informative. Gradyghost

Great report, Ira. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Which was your favorite town in Alsace and why?

Hi Ira:

Great trip report.

I have a question. I will be in Florence from October 1st thru October 13th. I inquired at B&B Peterson because you highly recommend it (especially since I'm onn a budget). They don’t have any availability for my dates at the Peterson, but do have availability at the other location Cassia which is about one block away. Do you know anything about the Cassia and if so how does it compare to the Peterson?

Thank you.

Hi AG,

I'm sure that the Taillevent staff are used to all sorts of rubes doing all sorts of gauche things.

Highly trained professionals that they are, they don't even smile or raise an eyebrow.

We were there for lunch.
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Hi T,

>Which was your favorite town in Alsace and why?

Kientzheim. Very small, very old, well restored, has an old wall, is on the Colmar bus route and the Route du Vins and has some history.

You can easily walk to Kaysersberg. Riquewihr is a bit of a hike.
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Hi JD,

Answered on your original thread.



We also liked Kaysersberg, Ottrot, Eguisheim.

I don't think that there is a single village, town or city that wouldn't make a nice base for a visit, except, perhaps, for Riquewihr and Ribeauville, which are too tourist-centered and crowded.
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Thanks for all of the kind words, folks.

Hi all,

A couple of notes:

We visited the Musee Rodin - It has been redone since we were there last (many years ago).

The line moved quickly (about 15 min wait).

The rose gardens were worth the price of admission.

There are still a couple of the early studies of Balzac (our favorite).

There is a nice farmer's market on Boul Raspail between rue du Cherche-Midi and rue de Rennes on Tuesday and Friday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. Metro : Rennes