Hello!
My husband, my 18-month-old toddler, and I are headed to Greece in early September for one week with my mom and another week with just us and the baby. We'd like a relaxed itinerary that focuses on the culture and scenery. Some stop-worthy ancient sites and beaches would also be great. Museums aren't high on our priority list as we tend to get "museumed-out," but we'd check them out if there's a strong recommendation.
So for Part 1 (7 days w/Mom), I was thinking about doing a shorter version of Rick Steve's 14-day tour (http://tours.ricksteves.com/tours/greece-turkey/greece). Normally his suggestions are spot on for me, but the sightseeing priorities in this guide (Hydra, then Delphi, then Nafplio, then Olympia, then Kardamyli) are totally different from what sounds interesting to me. Am I missing something? Maybe my preferences have completely changed post-kid? ![]()
So here's what I've put together...any thoughts/advice on what I've kept/dropped from his itinerary?
-Athens: we land at 7:15pm and I'm thinking of renting a car and getting into Nafplio late instead of staying for just 1 night (would prefer to save Athens for the end of the trip to keep stress down before the flights on Day 8).
-Nafplio (3 days / 3 nights): Day 1 fortress hike or just hang out in old town. Day 2 & 3 Epidavros and/or Mycenae day trips, depending on how we're feeling.
-Kardamyli (3 days / 3 nights): The book puts this low on the sightseeing priority list, but after reading about how easy it is to slip into Greek country life here...it sounds like a better fit than Monemvasia (big rock), Olympia or Delphi (ruins), and Hydra (we'll get island time later). We'd hit the markets, cafes, parks...
-Athens (1 day / 1 night): explore, Mom flies home, we fly to Naxos/Santorini.
I look forward to hearing your opinions!
How would you adapt Rick Steves' Athens & the Heart of Greece tour?
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First of all, are you arriving in Athens after a long, possibly overnight flight? Because you'll be jet-lagged and tired, not the best condition in which to drive. And the baby will be tired. So I'd just spend the first night in an airport hotel.
I agree with Rick that the Peloponnese supplies the best bang for the buck. I do think you would like Hydra (the donkeys!). But, while there's a ferry there from Nafplio, it would be a long trip for your child. However, your Mom might like to do it on her own.
I don't find your itinerary very restful. Ideally you'd rent a villa or a house in a town for a week, have plenty of space, slip into the local life there, and do daytrips as you feel like it. But it sounds like that's too slow for you.
Have you traveled much with the 18-month-old? With naps and travel stress, you need to adapt to the kid's schedule. You might not be able to do as much as you've planned.
Thanks, Mimar! I think you're right...I need to dial it back a touch - so I'll scrap Kardamyli b/c it's so far. However, w/Rick Steve's recommending 2 nights and 1 day in Nafplio, I'm thinking we'll get antsy spending a week there...so I'm trying to work in Hydra.
BTW, we'll be coming from Croatia, so we won't have jet lag issues. And as for the baby, we'll have a 3:1 adult to baby ratio and have taken quite a few trips with her. She's fine as long as we time the car rides with her naps/sleep.
So, I'm trying to figure out if I could pick up the car in Athens, tour around Nafplio, then return it just before we go to Hydra, and then take the ferry from Hydra back to Athens.
I see that there are rental car offices in Nafplio, but then I'm not sure how we'd get to Hydra as I didn't see any ferries directly from Nafplio. Or maybe I should just keep the car the entire time and just see about doing a day trip to Hydra given the iffiness of the ferry schedules?
Hi vmonk,

If you can, spend more time at Nafplio because there is so much to see in that area, and one day simply isn't enough. It's a favourite weekend getaway for Athenians, and even has some nice nearby beaches.
You don't have to go back to Athens (Piraeus) for a ferry to Hydra, as there are ferries from Porto Heli and Ermioni, not far from Nafplio. The website http://www.openseas.gr/openseas/SearchTrips.html is showing three or four daily ferries in early September, and the trip takes just over an hour, including a stop at Speteses.
I can't comment on Nafplio because I haven't been, but if I were traveling with a young child, I'd go straight to Naxos or Santorini first. Save Athens for the end of your trip. It's better to be in Athens the night before you need to fly home anyway, in case of weather or other delays coming from the islands.
And while Hydra is worth a day visit from Athens, it's a very small place. You can get in most of what you want to see or do there in an afternoon. I'd spend more time in Naxos or Santorini.
Just a couple of comments. You might think about making your headquarters in Tolo rather than Nauplion. Tolo is just a few kilometers from Nauplion and since you will have a car it is an easy commute. Tolo has a lovely beach so when you want time to just chill I couldn't think of a better place to do it with a toddler.
As Heimdall says the Nauplion area is perfect for short day tours to places like Mycenae, Epidaurus and perhaps Ancient Tiryns. Of course you will certainly want to explore Nauplion and be sure to find the wonderful central marble paved square. In the evening the square is full of kids playing.
As for Monemvassia it is far more than a big rock. There is still a 15th century town there and you can stay in period rooms spread through the city. Might not be something you want to do but it is a very special place.
Nauplion
http://travel.webshots.com/album/551991579dJbWvh
Monemvassia
http://travel.webshots.com/album/551987765EoLDkO
Thanks everyone for this great advice and info! We'll base ourselves in the Nafplio/Tolo area for a week and take day trips. We'll plan on doing Hydra as a day trip depending on how we're feeling. It seems like the shortest route would be via Ermioni...it's only 20 minutes by ferry from that port.
Weadles, we'll go to Santorini and Naxos after our week with my mother and we'll. Right now, we're planning to fly into Santorini (2 nights), then ferry to Naxos (3 nights), then Athens (1 night), then home!
I'm assuming we should book ferries for Ermioni-Hydra, Santorini-Naxos, or Naxos-Athens in advance? Let me know also of any lodging or other advice/thoughts!
Thanks very much!!!
PS: stanbr, the photos are great! and yes, Monemvassia looks like much more than a big rock!
and thanks Heimdall for the ferry link...very handy as I can link directly to the booking sites!
Generally speaking ferries aren't full in September, so it's safe to buy your tickets when you get to Greece. Santorini to Naxos is never full, as the ferry picks up most of its passengers on Naxos and Paros en route to Piraeus. Naxos to Piraeus ( for Athens) can be a problem in early September, especially weekends, as many families are returning to the mainland for the start of the school year. Even for that ferry you can wait until you get to Greece, but book as soon as you can. For what its worth, I never book ferries in advance, just buying them on the islands as I go along.
Thanks, Heimdall. Very helpful as usual.
If anyone has any villa recommendations for the Nafplio area, I'd love to hear them! We'll be 3 adults and 1 baby.
-wifi, a kitchen, and laundry would be great, but not required.
-something in the old town or on the beach would be great.
Thanks!
Since you liked the pictures I also have lots of images of Naxos as that is our favourite island.
Around Naxos
http://travel.webshots.com/album/552001505EYxVYT
Naxos town
http://travel.webshots.com/album/577942756YgKLfl
Thanks stanbr! We're in Santorini now and headed to Naxos tomorrow. It'll be our last stop before going back home from Athens on Thursday.
Just FYI for anyone else researching future trips and stumbling on this link:
-We ended up spending a week in Nafplio and would recommend it. It doesn't look like much when you first drive in, but it grows on you. Once you take the pedestrian walkway all the way around town, you realize how gorgeous it is. It's also a good balance of tourists and locals. If you have small children, it's great because there are playgrounds and town squares full of kids. The yayas will spoil your children, as well.
-We took a day trip with Pegasus cruises from there to Hydra and Spetses one day. It's 34 euros per person. You leave Tolo (~10-15 min drive from Nafplio) at 8:45am and get back around 7:45pm. It's much easier than taking the ferry from Ermioni (which is 1.5 hours away) and would cost about 20 euros RT for the ferry just to Hydra.
-After the week in Nafplio, we drove back to Athens, dropped my mother off at the airport and headed out to the islands. We're in Santorini for 2 days (could easily stay here longer as well) and going to Naxos for 3 days. Depending on how we feel (and what's available), we may try to do a day trip to Mykonos...but most likely we'll just relax in Naxos before ferrying back to Athens the day before our flight.
I'll try and post a trip report type thread to provide more details and practical info for future travelers!
Glad to hear you enjoyed your slower-paced trip. I'd be interested in hearing what you think of this style of traveling as opposed to the more fast pace you're used to.
Hi Mimar - I really liked it, but of course, we're lucky that we had that much time. With a baby and a nice city like Nafplio, plus some traveling before/after to get us a bit worn down...it's great!
I'll post a trip report soon...back in the real world and things are busy once again!