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How touristy is Heidelberg?

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I haven't been back to Heidelberg for 6 years, and I'm wondering if it's still as touristy as it was the last time I was there in 2006

. In 2011, the U.S. Army was scheduled to depart from its installations, the Headquarters of U.S. Army Europe, Patton Barracks, and the housing areas, Mark Twain Village and Patrick Henry Village. The American presence was huge in Heidelberg before 2011.

I've been wondering if this move has lessened the impact of tourism on the city. I lived on post in the late 60's, and the city was a real German city, with streetcar tracks in the middle of the Hauptstrasse and real stores on the street.

The last time I visited, it had become overrun with tourists. Okay, so I am a tourist, too, but still...it had lost much of its charm.

I'll give an example. I went into a store that sold prints. In the 60's I'd found an ink drawing by Picasso of the head of Pan. The paper had yellowed a bit and I wanted to see if I could find another copy of the piece. This was some time in the late 1990's. I wanted to see if this was the same store from which I'd originally brought the drawing, so I asked the clerk how long the store had been there. He said, "200 years."

I was impressed.

But when I returned to Heidelberg in 2006, the store was gone, replaced by some Hagen Das or Texas barbecue.

Anyway, I'm wondering if Heidelberg is a little less Americanized now that the Ami's are gone.

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