travelfan1

I'm really struggling with where to base for a week in the Dordogne. Not fond of driving every night to and from a restaurant for dinner so a rural location is out.

I would love feedback on how large Beynac and Domme are...do they have a variety of restaurants/cafe's/bakeries? I'd like to stay put for one day and just meander through the town we base in, visit the local cafe's and also wander a little following dinner. How are they in terms of driving in and out?

From everything I've read Sarlat seemed to offer what we were looking for, definitely want to visit the market, but I'm concerned about traffic and ease of getting in and out. Should I reconsider? Is there a certain area to stay in which would be easier with a car?

Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

StCirq

No, there's no area of Sarlat that's easier with a car than without. It's not a major city. There are basically two parking lots, plus street parking - it doesn't matter where in town you stay; you've got the same parking options.

Beynac and Domme are both small, but with a handful of dining/café options each. In each you have the option of parking in the communal parking lot and that's about it unless you stay at a hotel that offers you a special option.

The crucial factor, which you don't mention, is what time of year you plan to visit. June through August will mean getting in and out of any of the three will likely be a pain.

There are other towns where you'd have better options, like Le Bugue and St-Cyprien and Montignac.

travelfan1

StCirq - Thanks for the input. I neglected to say we're traveling in September.

We're renting an apartment and I will include the other towns you mentioned in my rental search.

Thanks again.

susanna

We stayed in Beynac, in September a few years back, for 10 days, also in an apartment. It was extremely easy to get in and out, there is only one road in front of the river that passes by. We didn't find good restaurants/cafes, they were just all right. We ended up eating in Domme and Sarlat, the latter having the most choices. We also didn't really have problems getting in and out of Sarlat on market days, hope this helps

StCirq

In September you shouldn't have problems getting in and out of anywhere, except for market days in Sarlat. That one little road that runs through Beynac is the reason it's impassable in July and August. Same with La Roque-Gageac (which actually has a number of good restaurants - La Plume d'Oie and Belle Etoile among them).

ekscrunchy

I rented a house in Domme a few years ago, in mid-October. By that time of year, the town was pretty quiet and some places had closed for the season. There was but one bakery open and a few restaurants. September would mean more choices. The only negative in a busy season, which I imagine September is, is the driving in and out of Domme since it is a hill town and if many visitors arrive the road can get congested. The town itself is also hilly and would not be a great pick for anyone unable to walk steep streets.

Visually, Domme is divine and well deserves its ranking among the "prettiest villages in France." Having said that, I would prefer, next time, to be based in a larger town with more choice of food shops and restaurants.

Jeff801

We were in that area just 6 weeks ago. The road between La Roque-Gageac and Beynac was closed for repair. This required all traffic that would normally be on the right bank to detour through Domme and the left bank. If you are planning to go within the next few weeks, you might want to check on the highway status. Even on light traffic days, the delays in Domme were substantial. This is made all the worse by some road construction on the left bank as well, all in the same stretch of the river and requiring detours across the ridges. The drives are not difficult, but they can be slowed substantially by bus and truck traffic.

Carlux

I think you probably should be in Sarlat if you want a selection of places to wander/eat. In September you will be able to get in and out of town quite easily. There are several municipal car parks that would be convenient at that time of year.

Both Beynac and Domme are much smaller - even in mid summer my husband was in Domme around 9 and was unable to get a coffee. Not an issue for you if you are in a rental property, but an indication of some of the problems you might face. There are hotels and restaurants, but if you want a good selection, you're better off in Sarlat - and it's quite magical at night, with its gas lamps.