thefengs

I am working on the itinerary for our trip to France in early May. I will pick up a rental car in Brive at 2pm, then explore the above mentioned villages before I settle in Martel for one night. (From Brive to Loubressac takes one hour.) Does it take long to tour these villages? I am heading to Rocamadour next morning after Martel and if possible go on to visit St Cirq Lapopie or Figeac before I go to Sarlat to spend 4 nights there. I will appreciate any comments. Thanks in advance.

ira

Hi T,

We spent a couple of hours visiting Collonges-la-Rouge, . There isn't a lot there for the casual tourist.

tedgale

I realize there is a dreadful Fodors tradition of urging people to change their settled plans because a commenter "knows better". But I'm about to make just that case.

I know all those sites well. I congratulate you on for acumen and discrimination in choosing one of the less known corners of central France.

If I were invited to prescribe an itinerary fopr someone, it would certainly not include Rocamadour, which I find tacky, impossibly hilly and without allure.

St Cirq-Lapopie is cute enough -- last time we just drove through and headed out shortly thereafter. It is a LONG SLOW drive to get there, too.

If you are staying in Martel and visiting the places you mention, you are in one of the richest and most varied and charming corners of the region. Other towns I love, in addition to the ones you mention, are:

Turenne
Beaulieu sur Dordogne
St Cere
Curemonte
Autoire

and one step down in size or importance or beauty:
Creysse (nearby Meyronne also has lovely river views)
Bretenoux (sister to Beaulieu)
Meyssac (russet-toned sister town to Collonges)

You could certainly spend an extra day (and I would urge two) if you did not make those loops to Rocamadour and St Cirq, both of which I have visited twice in different decades ...and neither of which I will ever bother with again.

Here are a few shots of Carennac, Martel, Beaulieu, Creysse, Meyssac, Turenne, Meyronne (and other places outside that sub-region) from a 2009 trip:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&l=8e87491a44

thefengs

Ira- Thanks for telling me what I need to hear. Your point well taken.
tedgale - Thanks for sharing the great photo. I am taking your prescription, dropping Rocamadour and St Cirq Lapopie. This plan will allow me more time to explore the small villages in the area. I will look into the villages you named and incorporate into my plan. Thanks for sharing your experience and valuable information. Your insight saves me time and regrets. Thanks so much.

tedgale

YOu are most welcome. Post our questions onto this thread, if you have any

tedgale

sorry: post OTHER questions....

StCirq

Thanks so much, tedgale....seriously.

The OP might want to visit the Gouffre de Padirac if there's time, though. Yes, a bit tacky, but it's not often you get a chance to zoom around in a boat that far underground.

thefengs

StCirq- Thanks for the suggestion. However, with so little time and so many places to go, I will have to save this for the next time.
tedgale- Thanks for being so helpful. I enjoyed your photo. Can you tell me where Erignac(photo #37)and jardins d'Eyrignac(#34) are. I cannot locate them on the google map.

And here is my itinerary, please feel free to critique so that I can make adjustment.
-Leave Brive at 2pm, drive to Collonges la Rouge, then
Turenne, overnight in Martel.
-Next morning, leave Martel at 7:30am, drive to Carennac,
Loubressac, Autoire, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, then drive to
Sarlat.
I do not know whether I am covering too much or still have room for more. If too much, which village I should leave out this time. I will appreciate any inputs. Thanks in advance.

michele_d

Try entering Les Jardins du Manoir d'Eyrignac, Aquitaine, France. It popped right up on Google maps.

kevin_widrow

I'll put in another vote for Autoire. Absolutely beautiful little village with a low-key restaurant serving the best confit de canard I've ever tasted.

Of these small villages we visited in the area (Autoire, Loubressac, Martel) none require a huge amount of time, but all merit a nice stop to get out and stroll around. And the scenery driving from one to the other is lovely.

-Kevin

tedgale

You have not overloaded your schedule and may feel like squeezing in an extra stop or two. Or not. Or you may discover sthg totally new and decide to stop there instead.

Prepare for a lot of climbing at Turenne -- it is very vertical, unlike the other places on your list. Officially, non-residents' cars shd be parked down by the highway, then you walk up through the town gates to the castle.

The photos of Eyrignac were taken in late May and you can see how prodigious the roses were. That was a very hot spring and the roses may not be as far advanced this year. But if you like gardens, this is one not to miss. Even in winter it must be splendid: it is mostly "architectural" rather than floral, with fine parterres, hedges and alleys of yew and hornbeam.

A family still lives on the premises, BTW: that is the family house you see (golden stone, roses by the door). The white iron table and chair set in the shade were being readied by a maid for the master's lunch.

There is another garden of interest not far from Sarlat, called Marqueyssac. It covers a long thin spine of land atop a hill overlooking the Dordogne River. It is primarily a boxwood garden, mostly fanciful topiary. The further you get from the garden entrance, the more informal and open the plantings become. At its furthest extremity it is more like woodland paths. Stunning views.

tedgale

http://www.marqueyssac.com/index1.html

thefengs

Wow! This trip is getting more and more exciting. Thank you Michel, Kevin, and tedgale for providing me great information on places to visit. Medieval villages plus formal garden in rural setting--I love it! I definitely will go to Les jardins Manoir d'Eyrs and Marqueyssac garden. They both look gorgeous and fascinating. Thank you all very much.

One more question-- How can we can know if we are allowed to drive through a village or only allowed to park outside village? Is there any sign for this and what will the sign say? Thanks.

Mimar

Instead of Google maps use www.viamichelin.com to plot your route in France. The Michelin maps have scenic roads marked in green, the sights starred as in the Michelin Green book, and interesting details. And I trust Michelin more on driving times.

StCirq

I like www.mappy.com even better than michelin.

There aren't any villages in the Périgord that you can't drive through, except some of the bastides, and that's obvious because the parking lots are outside the walls. If there's a road, you can drive.

tedgale

When a road says No entry and has a subjoined sign "Sauf riverains" ("except residents") we generally respect that.

My experience in just about every small village has been that you will find public parking at the top of the village, behind the chateau or the church or the town hall. They don't advertise it -- indeed, they direct you conspicuously to parking lots at the bottom of town -- because the centre would get badly congested with tourists if they did.

Of course, I have occasionally been wrong, which meant awkward turning and/or backing down a narrow alley or five.

latedaytraveler

tedgale, fabulous pics on your Facebook page - appreciate that you titled each one. Merci...

ira

Hey tedg,

>I have occasionally been wrong, which meant awkward turning and/or backing down a narrow alley or five.<

I'm glad that I am not the only one.

Judy

tedgale, loved your photos. Last year we stayed in Beynac and saw gardens at Marqueyssac. After looking at your pictures, I wish we'd gone to Eyrignac!!

thefengs

StCirq- You are right. I do like Mappy better, especially the feature that arranges the stop places to generate the most efficient route. I am glad that I played with Mappy today. Thanks for sharing your experience.
tedgale- "Sauf Riverains"--I got it. Thanks so very much.

I want to thank you all for the responses. I am grateful to the support community we have here. You people are great!! There is no way I can plan a trip without your inputs and help. Merci!