Holy Week in Rome - Traveling with my parents (AKA Oh my god am I out of my mind?) with many Restaurant Details
Apr 10th, 2007, 08:24 AM
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Holy Week in Rome - Traveling with my parents (AKA Oh my god am I out of my mind?) with many Restaurant Details
Trip Report Rome, March 31 April 7, 2007
Before departure
I had decided, against my better judgment, that it was time to get my parents to Italy. My last vacation there was in 2004 (with my husband, see trip report http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34621770 ) and was, while amusing, less than ideal for at least one of the travelers (i.e. not me).
During the two years that I lived in Italy, from 1998 until 2000, my parents did not visit. I think they were in denial of the fact that I was living in another country and were waging a silent protest via their refusal to get on a plane and come over to see me. I went home about every six months for a visit, but they did not reciprocate. Understandably. About a year after the trip with my husband, my desire to travel back to Italy starting to grow, and for some ungodly reason, I decided I would plan to take my parents with me.
We purchased our tickets early in 2006, and received an excellent deal through Expedia. We would be flying on United and Lufthansa, from Washington Dulles to Fiumicino, switching at Frankfort. Considering the fact that we would be visiting during Holy Week, the tickets were cheap at $607 each round trip, including all taxes and fees.
As soon as the tickets were purchased, the questions began. I didnt know two people could possibly have so many questions about what to pack, bring, wear, eat, etc. And matters only got worse when the plastic-baggie-3-ounce-liquid rule was introduced. Approximately three emails a day were in my inbox from my mother (my father abhors the computer and therefore asked no questions).
Somehow we managed to find and book an apartment through sleepinitaly.com. I had wanted a central location, but due to the mass of religious pilgrims descending on Rome during that week, we were unable to get the desired spot near the Pantheon, and thus ended up at an apartment on Via Gregoriana near the Spanish Steps. The apartment had two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen, and a living area. It also promised a washing machine, essential for packing light.
In spite of the million questions, emails, and phone calls about the trip, eventually the day of departure arrived.
March 30, 2007
We arrived at Dulles International Airport approximately three hours before our scheduled flight, just as we had been advised to do. We went to the United ticket window. In spite of the fact that the flight number on our tickets was a United flight number, we were told to check in with Lufthansa since the flight was being operated by them. Over to another ticket counter with all of our luggage. Once we arrived at the counter, we were informed that, despite having called to book seats in advance months prior, all three of our seats were in different parts of the airplane. And all three were middle seats, despite the fact that we had been booked for two aisle seats and one middle seat. This was an irritating development to say the least, particularly since my father suffers from back and leg problems and would suffer being stuck in a middle seat. Thankfully, most people on the plane were in the same boat and the two very nice people seated next to me were willing to change and the three of us could sit together.
Before departure
I had decided, against my better judgment, that it was time to get my parents to Italy. My last vacation there was in 2004 (with my husband, see trip report http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34621770 ) and was, while amusing, less than ideal for at least one of the travelers (i.e. not me).
During the two years that I lived in Italy, from 1998 until 2000, my parents did not visit. I think they were in denial of the fact that I was living in another country and were waging a silent protest via their refusal to get on a plane and come over to see me. I went home about every six months for a visit, but they did not reciprocate. Understandably. About a year after the trip with my husband, my desire to travel back to Italy starting to grow, and for some ungodly reason, I decided I would plan to take my parents with me.
We purchased our tickets early in 2006, and received an excellent deal through Expedia. We would be flying on United and Lufthansa, from Washington Dulles to Fiumicino, switching at Frankfort. Considering the fact that we would be visiting during Holy Week, the tickets were cheap at $607 each round trip, including all taxes and fees.
As soon as the tickets were purchased, the questions began. I didnt know two people could possibly have so many questions about what to pack, bring, wear, eat, etc. And matters only got worse when the plastic-baggie-3-ounce-liquid rule was introduced. Approximately three emails a day were in my inbox from my mother (my father abhors the computer and therefore asked no questions).
Somehow we managed to find and book an apartment through sleepinitaly.com. I had wanted a central location, but due to the mass of religious pilgrims descending on Rome during that week, we were unable to get the desired spot near the Pantheon, and thus ended up at an apartment on Via Gregoriana near the Spanish Steps. The apartment had two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen, and a living area. It also promised a washing machine, essential for packing light.
In spite of the million questions, emails, and phone calls about the trip, eventually the day of departure arrived.
March 30, 2007
We arrived at Dulles International Airport approximately three hours before our scheduled flight, just as we had been advised to do. We went to the United ticket window. In spite of the fact that the flight number on our tickets was a United flight number, we were told to check in with Lufthansa since the flight was being operated by them. Over to another ticket counter with all of our luggage. Once we arrived at the counter, we were informed that, despite having called to book seats in advance months prior, all three of our seats were in different parts of the airplane. And all three were middle seats, despite the fact that we had been booked for two aisle seats and one middle seat. This was an irritating development to say the least, particularly since my father suffers from back and leg problems and would suffer being stuck in a middle seat. Thankfully, most people on the plane were in the same boat and the two very nice people seated next to me were willing to change and the three of us could sit together.
Apr 10th, 2007, 08:26 AM
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March 31, 2007
The plane ride over was uneventful for the most part. We changed in Frankfort with no major issues, except for extreme confusion about whether or not we needed to go through security again (yes) and where the B gates were located (through a shopping arcade). We arrived in Rome at 9:25 AM and proceeded to the baggage carousel to get our luggage. All three bags arrived without incident, and we exited through customs to find our driver.
We had booked a personal driver through the apartment agency, and true to form he was waiting outside customs with a sign bearing my name. We boarded the mini-bus as the only three passengers, and began the ride into Rome. The private ride cost 52 Euros, and he dropped us off right outside the door to the apartment no small feat considering the minibus took up the entire width of Via Gregoriana and we were perilously close to smashing several scooters and a Smart car.
I had advised the apartment agency of our arrival time, and weeks earlier they had indicated that they would contact the apartment owner and let him know approximately what time we would arrive. Unfortunately, however, they had sent me an email AFTER we had left the United States stating that I would need to call the owner to make arrangements to get the keys. Only a small mix-up, since I had brought the owners cell phone number with me and within 15 minutes the owner was at the building with the keys. He let us in, showed us around, and gave us directions to the nearest grocery store.
With our bags successfully brought up in the creakingly ancient elevator, we decided to go out and get some lunch. We ended up wandering in an aimless fog of jetlag toward the Pantheon, and grabbed a seat at Zio Ciro Maddalena in Piazza Santa Maddalena. The place was obviously tourist-driven, but I was hungry and my parents were tired, so we sat down at a table in the sun and enjoyed the comic efforts of our waiter to accommodate our every whim.
Lunch Zio Ciro Maddalena, Piazza Santa Maddalena
1 order olive ascolane (stuffed, fried olives) Rather good
1 order mixed bruschetta (1 tuna, 1 tomato, 1 peppers) Tuna was less than spectacular tomato and pepper were both passable)
1 order wood-fired foccaccia filled in the gaps good flavor
1 large bottle of water
1 espresso
1 order pasta carbonara too much fat on the pancetta, small portion even for Italy
1 order gnocchi - passable
Total bill: 36 Euro, service not included
With our lunch eaten, we wandered toward the Pantheon and went in to marvel at the construction techniques of ancient Rome. My parents pointed at the oculus like a true tourist, I took a picture. You can see right up my mothers nostrils.
Since lunch had been slightly less than fulfilling, we needed to find gelato ASAP. I remembered that Gelateria della Palma was quite close to the Pantheon, so we wandered over. The place was mobbed with people, but we calmly ordered 3 cones with 2 flavors each, and elbowed our way up to the counter. We all got fruit flavors.
Gelato Gelateria della Palma (near Pantheon)
3 cones 2 flavors each
1 limone e fragola (lemon and strawberry)
1 fichi e mora (fig and blackberry)
1 fichi e mango (fig and mango)
Total: 6 euro
Once stuffed with gelato, we decided a grocery trip would be fairly safe, so we went to the Despar off of Via del Tritone (near Via del Corso). The basic staples of life (coffee, water, juice, cheese, yogurt, cookies, paper towels, and soap for the washing machine) cost 26 Euros and we lugged the bags back to the apartment before crashing onto the beds for a short nap.
Nap complete, we woke up and decided we would make our way toward our dinner destination. As you can tell, food was a large focus of this trip. I had made reservations for most of our dinner spots before leaving the United States. I will note in the report which were reservations.
We walked down the Spanish Steps for the first time of many, and joined the Italians in a passeggiata down Via dei Condotti. We gawked in all the windows and my parents marveled at the prices of Italian designer wear. Turning right on Via del Corso, we walked up to Piazza del Popolo, before hanging a 45 degree left hand turn onto Via di Ripetta. Most of our evening meals were eaten on Via di Ripetta.
I couldnt have my first dinner in Italy be anything other than pizza, and had therefore made reservations at Pizza Re. Now, I had specifically searched for a Neapolitan pizzeria, not a Roman pizzeria, because that is the type of pizza crust I like. Neapolitan crust is not as thin as Roman crust, and I like it that way.
Our reservations were for 7:45 PM we generally ate early for the sake of my parents.
Dinner Pizza Re, Via di Ripetta, 14 (Tel: 06-3211468)
2 small waters
1 large beer (Nastro Azzurro tap)
1 small beer (Nastro Azzurro tap)
1 pizza margherita
1 pizza prosciutto e funghi (ham and mushroom)
1 cassata napoletana
Total: 33 euro without tip
The pizza was Neapolitan perfection, a little wet and gooey in the middle, just the right amount of cheese with a good amount of saltiness. The sauce was a complement but not a statement. My pizza (the margherita) had a cheese bubble that looked like a skeleton head, and since I already drank my beer, I took a picture of it. The picture is less than spectacular. My parents shared the prosciutto e funghi, and since my mom and I are both dessert fiends, we decided to try a dessert. I wanted the pastiera because it was Easter time, but they were out, so we tried the cassata napoletana. The cassata had a sweet ricotta and chocolate chip filling, with a type of crust on the top and bottom. The whole thing was covered in fondant, and bedecked with candied apples and cherries. Stupendous.
We made our way back to the Spanish Steps, climbed up them (slowly), and turned into the apartment, satisfied with our first day in Rome.
The plane ride over was uneventful for the most part. We changed in Frankfort with no major issues, except for extreme confusion about whether or not we needed to go through security again (yes) and where the B gates were located (through a shopping arcade). We arrived in Rome at 9:25 AM and proceeded to the baggage carousel to get our luggage. All three bags arrived without incident, and we exited through customs to find our driver.
We had booked a personal driver through the apartment agency, and true to form he was waiting outside customs with a sign bearing my name. We boarded the mini-bus as the only three passengers, and began the ride into Rome. The private ride cost 52 Euros, and he dropped us off right outside the door to the apartment no small feat considering the minibus took up the entire width of Via Gregoriana and we were perilously close to smashing several scooters and a Smart car.
I had advised the apartment agency of our arrival time, and weeks earlier they had indicated that they would contact the apartment owner and let him know approximately what time we would arrive. Unfortunately, however, they had sent me an email AFTER we had left the United States stating that I would need to call the owner to make arrangements to get the keys. Only a small mix-up, since I had brought the owners cell phone number with me and within 15 minutes the owner was at the building with the keys. He let us in, showed us around, and gave us directions to the nearest grocery store.
With our bags successfully brought up in the creakingly ancient elevator, we decided to go out and get some lunch. We ended up wandering in an aimless fog of jetlag toward the Pantheon, and grabbed a seat at Zio Ciro Maddalena in Piazza Santa Maddalena. The place was obviously tourist-driven, but I was hungry and my parents were tired, so we sat down at a table in the sun and enjoyed the comic efforts of our waiter to accommodate our every whim.
Lunch Zio Ciro Maddalena, Piazza Santa Maddalena
1 order olive ascolane (stuffed, fried olives) Rather good
1 order mixed bruschetta (1 tuna, 1 tomato, 1 peppers) Tuna was less than spectacular tomato and pepper were both passable)
1 order wood-fired foccaccia filled in the gaps good flavor
1 large bottle of water
1 espresso
1 order pasta carbonara too much fat on the pancetta, small portion even for Italy
1 order gnocchi - passable
Total bill: 36 Euro, service not included
With our lunch eaten, we wandered toward the Pantheon and went in to marvel at the construction techniques of ancient Rome. My parents pointed at the oculus like a true tourist, I took a picture. You can see right up my mothers nostrils.
Since lunch had been slightly less than fulfilling, we needed to find gelato ASAP. I remembered that Gelateria della Palma was quite close to the Pantheon, so we wandered over. The place was mobbed with people, but we calmly ordered 3 cones with 2 flavors each, and elbowed our way up to the counter. We all got fruit flavors.
Gelato Gelateria della Palma (near Pantheon)
3 cones 2 flavors each
1 limone e fragola (lemon and strawberry)
1 fichi e mora (fig and blackberry)
1 fichi e mango (fig and mango)
Total: 6 euro
Once stuffed with gelato, we decided a grocery trip would be fairly safe, so we went to the Despar off of Via del Tritone (near Via del Corso). The basic staples of life (coffee, water, juice, cheese, yogurt, cookies, paper towels, and soap for the washing machine) cost 26 Euros and we lugged the bags back to the apartment before crashing onto the beds for a short nap.
Nap complete, we woke up and decided we would make our way toward our dinner destination. As you can tell, food was a large focus of this trip. I had made reservations for most of our dinner spots before leaving the United States. I will note in the report which were reservations.
We walked down the Spanish Steps for the first time of many, and joined the Italians in a passeggiata down Via dei Condotti. We gawked in all the windows and my parents marveled at the prices of Italian designer wear. Turning right on Via del Corso, we walked up to Piazza del Popolo, before hanging a 45 degree left hand turn onto Via di Ripetta. Most of our evening meals were eaten on Via di Ripetta.
I couldnt have my first dinner in Italy be anything other than pizza, and had therefore made reservations at Pizza Re. Now, I had specifically searched for a Neapolitan pizzeria, not a Roman pizzeria, because that is the type of pizza crust I like. Neapolitan crust is not as thin as Roman crust, and I like it that way.
Our reservations were for 7:45 PM we generally ate early for the sake of my parents.
Dinner Pizza Re, Via di Ripetta, 14 (Tel: 06-3211468)
2 small waters
1 large beer (Nastro Azzurro tap)
1 small beer (Nastro Azzurro tap)
1 pizza margherita
1 pizza prosciutto e funghi (ham and mushroom)
1 cassata napoletana
Total: 33 euro without tip
The pizza was Neapolitan perfection, a little wet and gooey in the middle, just the right amount of cheese with a good amount of saltiness. The sauce was a complement but not a statement. My pizza (the margherita) had a cheese bubble that looked like a skeleton head, and since I already drank my beer, I took a picture of it. The picture is less than spectacular. My parents shared the prosciutto e funghi, and since my mom and I are both dessert fiends, we decided to try a dessert. I wanted the pastiera because it was Easter time, but they were out, so we tried the cassata napoletana. The cassata had a sweet ricotta and chocolate chip filling, with a type of crust on the top and bottom. The whole thing was covered in fondant, and bedecked with candied apples and cherries. Stupendous.
We made our way back to the Spanish Steps, climbed up them (slowly), and turned into the apartment, satisfied with our first day in Rome.
Apr 10th, 2007, 08:54 AM
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April 1, 2007
We ate breakfast in the apartment with the provisions we had purchased at the grocery store the previous day. This worked out very well, since we could have something more substantial than the usual Italian café and cornetto.
This was Sunday, specifically Palm Sunday, so we stayed well away from the Vatican area for the time being. After our leisurely breakfast, we set out for a stroll toward Santa Maria Maggiore. We walked straight down Via Sistina, which turned into Via delle Quattro Fontane, which ran directly into the backside of Santa Maria Maggiore. When we arrived at the church, there was a mass taking place, so we photographed the exterior and noted when we could return to see the inside. We walked toward Santa Pressede, found the Arco di Gallieno on a side street, and decided that after all the walking it would be a good time for lunch.
My husband and I had eaten at the bar/cafeteria across from Santa Maria Maggiore on our trip, and the food was expensive for bar food, but fairly decent, so we decided to go back there and take an outdoor seat.
Lunch Bar facing Santa Maria Maggiore on Via Carlo Alberto
1 birra alla spina Nastro Azzurro
1 the freddo (iced tea)
1 bottle water (small)
1 Pizza Romana (panino with prosciutto, mozzarella, and tomatoes)
1 Panino del Nerano (panino with prosciutto and zucchini)
1 order special pasta Tagliatelle ai porcini (cream sauce with wine, porcini, parsley)
Total: 40 Euro terrible service, even for Rome, by an old cantankerous waiter
The sandwiches were average, but the pasta was really quite good. The sauce was creamy and the porcini mushrooms were meaty with a nice background flavor of white wine.
There was a grocery store right across the street, so we went in to buy a few more things we had found we needed and/or wanted, like fresh fruit and some extra snacks. Total cost of grocery trip: 30.90 Euro. Since there was a cab stand right by Santa Maria Maggiore, we took a cab back to the apartment rather than lug the groceries halfway across the universe. Cost of cab: 7.50 euro.
The late afternoon consisted of a spirited game of War, some halfhearted poker, and naps all around. We also saw the farting squirrel commercial for the first time and enjoyed it immensely. The drama just oozes from our trip, doesnt it?
At around 6:00, we left the apartment and meandered down the Spanish Steps, saying No to roses and twirly light toys about every 2 steps. The vendors were really quite aggressive there. Dinner this evening was set for Il Brillo Parlante, an enoteca that I was really looking forward to trying. Our reservations were for 8:00 PM. We were seating in a basement area near the wine cellar.
Dinner Il Brillo Parlante, Via della Fontanella, 12 (Tel: 06-324-3334)
1 liter water
1 bottle Chianti Castiglione (14 E)
1 bruschetta pomodoro
1 strozzapreti con ragu di Barolo e erbe fini (pasta with Barolo wine meat sauce)
1 bucatini pesto
1 trofie alla sorrentina con mozzarella di Bufala, pachini, e basilico
Total: 45.50 Euro (service not included)
My honest impression? Feh. Very trendy, but it seemed like a lot of flavors that just werent working that well together. The bruschetta and wine were top notch. The pasta dishes were a little strange. The best of the 3 was the strozzapreti with the Barolo meat sauce. The pasta tasted almost unsalted, but the sauce was quite good with a good mix of seasonings and the touch of wine was just enough. The bucatini pesto were served in a basket made of fried parmesan cheese and the flavor of the parmesan was actually overpowering. Now, I love parmesan, but there was too much in this dish you could barely taste the basil in the pesto and that is really saying something. The trofie alla sorrentina were boring. The mozzarella was of a good quality, but the whole dish was really lacking in salt or seasoning of any variety and ended up being just bland. Overall, Id say go for the wine selection but dont bet heavy on the food.
A walk up the Spanish steps and day 2 fades out .
We ate breakfast in the apartment with the provisions we had purchased at the grocery store the previous day. This worked out very well, since we could have something more substantial than the usual Italian café and cornetto.
This was Sunday, specifically Palm Sunday, so we stayed well away from the Vatican area for the time being. After our leisurely breakfast, we set out for a stroll toward Santa Maria Maggiore. We walked straight down Via Sistina, which turned into Via delle Quattro Fontane, which ran directly into the backside of Santa Maria Maggiore. When we arrived at the church, there was a mass taking place, so we photographed the exterior and noted when we could return to see the inside. We walked toward Santa Pressede, found the Arco di Gallieno on a side street, and decided that after all the walking it would be a good time for lunch.
My husband and I had eaten at the bar/cafeteria across from Santa Maria Maggiore on our trip, and the food was expensive for bar food, but fairly decent, so we decided to go back there and take an outdoor seat.
Lunch Bar facing Santa Maria Maggiore on Via Carlo Alberto
1 birra alla spina Nastro Azzurro
1 the freddo (iced tea)
1 bottle water (small)
1 Pizza Romana (panino with prosciutto, mozzarella, and tomatoes)
1 Panino del Nerano (panino with prosciutto and zucchini)
1 order special pasta Tagliatelle ai porcini (cream sauce with wine, porcini, parsley)
Total: 40 Euro terrible service, even for Rome, by an old cantankerous waiter
The sandwiches were average, but the pasta was really quite good. The sauce was creamy and the porcini mushrooms were meaty with a nice background flavor of white wine.
There was a grocery store right across the street, so we went in to buy a few more things we had found we needed and/or wanted, like fresh fruit and some extra snacks. Total cost of grocery trip: 30.90 Euro. Since there was a cab stand right by Santa Maria Maggiore, we took a cab back to the apartment rather than lug the groceries halfway across the universe. Cost of cab: 7.50 euro.
The late afternoon consisted of a spirited game of War, some halfhearted poker, and naps all around. We also saw the farting squirrel commercial for the first time and enjoyed it immensely. The drama just oozes from our trip, doesnt it?
At around 6:00, we left the apartment and meandered down the Spanish Steps, saying No to roses and twirly light toys about every 2 steps. The vendors were really quite aggressive there. Dinner this evening was set for Il Brillo Parlante, an enoteca that I was really looking forward to trying. Our reservations were for 8:00 PM. We were seating in a basement area near the wine cellar.
Dinner Il Brillo Parlante, Via della Fontanella, 12 (Tel: 06-324-3334)
1 liter water
1 bottle Chianti Castiglione (14 E)
1 bruschetta pomodoro
1 strozzapreti con ragu di Barolo e erbe fini (pasta with Barolo wine meat sauce)
1 bucatini pesto
1 trofie alla sorrentina con mozzarella di Bufala, pachini, e basilico
Total: 45.50 Euro (service not included)
My honest impression? Feh. Very trendy, but it seemed like a lot of flavors that just werent working that well together. The bruschetta and wine were top notch. The pasta dishes were a little strange. The best of the 3 was the strozzapreti with the Barolo meat sauce. The pasta tasted almost unsalted, but the sauce was quite good with a good mix of seasonings and the touch of wine was just enough. The bucatini pesto were served in a basket made of fried parmesan cheese and the flavor of the parmesan was actually overpowering. Now, I love parmesan, but there was too much in this dish you could barely taste the basil in the pesto and that is really saying something. The trofie alla sorrentina were boring. The mozzarella was of a good quality, but the whole dish was really lacking in salt or seasoning of any variety and ended up being just bland. Overall, Id say go for the wine selection but dont bet heavy on the food.
A walk up the Spanish steps and day 2 fades out .
Apr 10th, 2007, 10:52 AM
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Glad everyone is enjoying the report - my parents have never been to Europe, or really any other foreign country, at any other time. Wait, I revise my statement - they went to Jamaica in 1968.
I'll get to more of this tomorrow. I'm using my planning periods at work to write the trip report. That's a good use of work time, right?
I'll get to more of this tomorrow. I'm using my planning periods at work to write the trip report. That's a good use of work time, right?
Apr 10th, 2007, 11:14 AM
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Enjoying your report.
I'm especially interested because I'm planning a trip to Rome for Holy Week 2008. I'd like to know more about how crowded things were and if anything was closed.
Also, do you have a link to the specific apartment you used? Would you recommend it? I'm looking for a 2 bedroom one as well.
I'm especially interested because I'm planning a trip to Rome for Holy Week 2008. I'd like to know more about how crowded things were and if anything was closed.
Also, do you have a link to the specific apartment you used? Would you recommend it? I'm looking for a 2 bedroom one as well.
Apr 10th, 2007, 11:14 AM
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I used to have this sentimental idea that I'd take my parents to Europe some day...but in reality, they drive me crazy when they just come visit me in Dallas. Your reward will be in heaven, nnolen!
Apr 10th, 2007, 11:27 AM
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nnolen-
I love your writing style, and enjoyed your report on your trip with your husband, too.
Planning periods...and...going on vacation the week before Easter? You must be a teacher, right?
I am a teacher, too, and just returned from my spring break trip on Sunday. We always start planning a future trip on the way home, to make airport hell a little less hellish. We are talking about Italy (Rome and Puglia) next spring, so I second Kristina's request for info on whether this is a good time to be in Rome.
Thanks for a great report!
I love your writing style, and enjoyed your report on your trip with your husband, too.
Planning periods...and...going on vacation the week before Easter? You must be a teacher, right?
I am a teacher, too, and just returned from my spring break trip on Sunday. We always start planning a future trip on the way home, to make airport hell a little less hellish. We are talking about Italy (Rome and Puglia) next spring, so I second Kristina's request for info on whether this is a good time to be in Rome.
Thanks for a great report!
Apr 10th, 2007, 12:17 PM
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Well, I'm using office hours/prep time to skim fodor's, so there you have it.
I have a weird image in my head now of looking up your dear mom's nose as she stares into the oculus at the Pantheon.
This is fun; great food descriptions!
I have a weird image in my head now of looking up your dear mom's nose as she stares into the oculus at the Pantheon.
This is fun; great food descriptions!
