Lamorna

Hello all,

My husband and I are hoping to holiday in Cilento next year. I have been searching the web for inspiration but most of the articles are from some years ago -I have found these two helpful threads:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...re-to-stay.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-long-trip.cfm

I was hoping that you may be kind enough to share your experiences of this region with us. Any travellers tales, tips or insights would be welcome, and several specific questions I have are:

Location: We are hoping to base ourselves on the coast, as near to the sea as possible. We would prefer somewhere quiet with a little eatery or two, the lapping of the waves and a sandy beach. I am stuck between one of the 'bigger' towns such as Santa Maria, San Marco, Acciaroli or one of the tiny villages such as Marina di Pisciotta. Also not sure whether to choose the northern part as mentioned above or somewhere more southern, like Scario. What are there different 'atmospheres' in the north/south Cilento and the different towns?

Accommodation: I am stuck between going for a hotel, and possibly paying up to £1500 for a week (I don't need - or want - an upmarket hotel, but don't want a rubbish one either! This seems to be the going rate for a nice beach side hotel) or whether to take a risk and go Air B&B (a lot cheaper and maybe we would get a more authentic experience - but I'm very worried about Air B&B host cancelling on us...) Also I am reading about Agrotourismo? but not sure what this means and they don't seem to be right on the coast...so, where do people stay and where can you recommend?

Day trips: I had intended to visit Naples, seems as though we would be flying in there but now I am thinking forget Naples, come straight to Cilento and definitely a trip to Pasteum. What other trips/activities do people recommend? As we are there for a week, we would like maybe 2 days out exploring and 4 or 5 days just chilling and enjoying the coast and beaches.

Car hire: How easy is it to hire a car from Naples and drive down? We have never driven in Italy before, it looks quite crazy!

Thanks so much, I look forward to planning my wonderful holiday with your help and getting to know you all. A bit about me: married with teenage stepchildren and cats, and a houseful of books. Vegetarian. I love Rome and have been 3 times, best food I've ever eaten. I went to Paris in February and adored that, too, especially Notre Dame and Shakespeare and Co, but the food was no good for a veggie, I lived 4 days of cheese and pastries and came back 6 pounds heavier. My heart is with Italy. I would actually like to learn more Italian and am thinking of taking a course.

J xxx

willit

I'm very fond of the Cilento region, having stayed there several times. I normally rent an apartment, so cannot really help with hotel recommendations. I like San Marco and Santa Maria pretty much equally - the latter is bigger with a wider choice of restaurants - the former slightly quieter.

"Car hire: How easy is it to hire a car from Naples and drive down?"
Mostly easy - From the airport you are straight onto the autostrada - head down the A3 until Battipaglia, then down to Paestum/Agropoli and into the Cilento region. The latter sections can be slow and winding - but it's not too bad a drive (The only issue is a posted 50km/h limit that is widely ignored)

Day trips: Naples - I use the train. You can park in Agropoli, or there is a bus along the coast which stops in Agropoli, then train up to Naples

The Hilltop town of Castellabate is worth an hour or two's exploration - rambling medieval streets and castle.

Paestum. - easy drive from Castellabate (< 30 min) , very worth doing - great little museum, wonderful temples.

Pompeii - can be driven, although parking in the area is expensive - personally , I wouldn't drive any closer to Naples than Pompeii - it just gets too hectic.

Velia - ruins of a Greek/Roman site
Drive through the hills of the National Park down as far as Sapri (take the fat road home) - very scenic.

Caserta. Can do via train (Change at Naples) or car - spectacular "Versailles" style palace - you could easily spend the whole day there.

Your budget very much depends on time of year - late July and all of August can be exceptionally expensive - June or from mid September onwards are often very reasonable.

Lamorna

Thanks so much, you recommendations for day trips sound just what we are after.

San Marco sounds like a good compromise between very small village and slightly larger town, so I may look there.

You say you normally rent an apartment - any recommendations? We booked accommodation for a special trip to Rome and were let down at the 11th hour, so I always prefer to go for recommendations of places that are reliable.

J x

willit

Unfortunately, neither of the places I usually stayed are available anymore. Having a quick look at some holiday sites
I found this place (https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p1902833) which we used to pass everyday - right on the beach.

Alternatively this one https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p52947
it isn't on the beach - but further back on the hill - a pretty easy walk down the hill. Both have good reviews from other users.

yorkshire

I discovered the Cilento region here and had a wonderful visit. Here is my trip report and I'll be happy to answer any other questions. Do let us know what month you will be visiting.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ith-naples.cfm
I am a vegetarian 99% of the time, but I am a pescetarian when I travel. I mostly recall the buffala mozzarella and fish, but as you know from previous visits, Italy is wonderful for vegetarians.
I think you are probably right to focus on the northern coastal towns you have pinpointed. They will be convenient for your day trips both north and south. I skipped those, but I get a sense they are more charming than the coastal towns further south. In very general terms, and I am sure someone will correct me if I am way off-base, the old towns are up on the hillsides--so a drive from the beach (or a steep walk if you are like me). The towns along the immediate coast are newer. I wanted an old town and the attendant views, and we day tripped down to the coast.
We did it without a car, but if we had a week we would get the car at Naples airport--I cannot advocate driving with jet lag though.

yorkshire

ps I rented an apartment in Pisciotta through the Hotel Mariluvo. I know there is a trip report here from someone who rented a different apartment. If that town piques your interest, keep searching.

neckervd

All depends on the season. All beaches get very crowded in August. Castellabate and surroundings are fine. The sandy beach of Marina di Camerota is somewhat better. Kings hotel at Palinuro has a scenic small private beach accessible from the hotel only.

Lamorna

Thanks all

Willitt, the first link is broken but the second one is beautiful and is definitely on our list now.

Yorkshire - brill, I will read the trip report. Pisciotta does look charming. I am pescatarian - or veg-aquarian as I call it ;-)- I keep resolving to give fish up...but definitely not until after a trip to the Italian coast! I know what you mean about old towns, it is a quandary as I prefer older villages and all the more charming properties do seem to be 15 mins uphill. We shall probably go with a hill property, walk off all that pasta I am going to be eating.

neckervd - we are planning on 1st week in September next year, 2nd to 8th or something like that, is it still very touristy then or has it calmed down a bit? We have the possibility of going the week after, 8th to 15th September also.

Thanks all

J x

willit

Lamorna
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p1902833

It was picking up the ")" at the end of the address.

Lamorna

willit...w-o-w it is lovely, look at that access to the beach! certainly a great option, thanks for that

yorkshire, your trip report was ace, thanks - your trip sounds amazing, and has made me want to see Naples

I am really excited, Cilento looks beautiful. For ages I have wanted to visit Amalfi, Sorrento, Cinque Terra but something has been stopping me (something in addition to money, that is) - it all looks beautiful but very over-developed and touristy and I much prefer quiet and authentic. We were looking at the Aeolian islands as well, and Saline really caught my imagination, but there just seems to be so much variety in Cilento - coast, town, hills, countryside.

Looking forward to 12 months of obsessive planning (that's what floats my boat, I even have a holiday spreadsheet - already, before the holiday exists!)

neckervd

Everything in Italian sea resorts gets much calmer (and cheaper) after the last Saturday of August. No need to wait until Sept 8th.

Lamorna

Thanks all - you have been very helpful. I have the beginnings of a workable plan: first week in September 2017, in Pisciotta. Long Travel do a good deal on Hotel Mariluvo (thanks, yorkshire)including car hire, so I have asked for a quote and they are getting back to me.

We can use that lovely village as a base to explore the region, including Castellabate hill village and seaside town, San Marco, the beach and coves at Palinuro and spend a day at the archaeological sites at Paestum and Velia, plus hopefully drive around inland a bit.

I do have my heart set on Pisciotta, as it looks so magical, so if Hotel Mariluvo is a no-go for whatever reason (cost/availability) I will keep looking for other options there.

I'm so happy to have come across this part of the world, have been reading up about how Campania was only 50 years ago the poorest part of Italy, lots of families could not feed their children and lots of the children left the region as teenagers and moved north, taking their Cucina Povera with them, and these days restaurants charge a fortune for that same simple food!

J x

yorkshire

I loved Pisciotta and Hotel Mariluvo--note we stayed in their annex apartment, but the couple that runs it are lovely people and exceedingly helpful with ideas for your trip.

cathyeats

Lamorna, did you post a trip report? This thread has been very helpful in planning my upcoming trip. I booked Hotel Mariluvo. Has anyone stayed in these apartments in Acquafredda? They seem to have two different names online: Le Ruve Bianche and Aquazzura. But this is their site:
http://www.leruvebianche.it/

Thanks!

ekscrunchy

Cathy that looks lovely. Be sure to go down to the marina to try the restaurants there; we liked Angiolina very much.

http://www.ristoranteangiolina.it/

cathyeats

Thanks, ek! It is between that place and Villa Cheta. Decisions, decisions. Agionlina is on my list, for sure.

ekscrunchy

Villa Cheta is pretty..I peeked in after we ate nearby. We stayed in the town of Maratea. But that is a drive to the beach. I think I would do what you are doing next time. The area is magnificent!