The Autostrade

Don’t drive in Naples!

You always need a ticket when you get on the Autostrada unless you hit a pay booth where they take money first. But if you hit a booth with no one there look for a way to take a ticket. I did not once and now I have a dossier in Italy with 3 inches thick of paperwork because I did not take a ticket coming out of Milano going from the Tangenziale to the A4.

Autostrada are signed with major cities at the entrance. If you are in Bologna and want to go to Firenze, you need to go “Roma”. Off ramps are signed with the names of several principal towns. Try reading 6 or 7 town names at 100 mph in the dark looking for Castellina in Chianti. Of course you can always get off at the next off ramp and get back on to the ramp you passed because you couldn’t. Remember, if you’re lost, you are having an adventure! Many towns will show up on several successive signs. Sometimes a town is signed on the off ramp and then its very far away on a twisty dirt road. If you had gone one more off ramp it would have been just a few Km. On a newly paved road. Remember, you are fully insured!

Never make a u turn or take the opposite direction on an autostrada. You will face a huge fine when you try to exit. This happened to some friends of mine and they had to pay a $400 fine!

On the autostrada you can pay using the Va Card lanes only if you have a card with a 4 digit pin. You don't need to enter the pin to go through the lane, but my regular credit cards did not work. The Va Card lanes are fastest, especially if there is traffic.

Autogrille (one of the most common and IMHO the best food places on the autostrade) has quite good espresso and cappuccino, great prosciutto sandwiches, and fresh orange juice. You can get fresh pasta and entrees at some locations, but as good as Autogrille is its still a gas station. The food will be nothing remotely like the road side swill offered in the US. I know I am in Italy when I have had my first (of many) Autogrille caffe and panino al prosciutto. You can buy prosciutto, cheese, wine, acqua mierale, etc. As at most bar in Italy, you look at what you want first, pay and take the receipt to the bar for your order. They typically offer clean and busy bathrooms. Be a sport and give the attendant L500 or L1000 and think of the horribly smelly bathrooms you would get in the US.

Local customs

Don’t drive in Naples!

Gas is tricky in Italy. On the autostrada you will find gas often and very well signed. Every gas station has a bar or a ristorante. In cities, gas stations tend to be on the outside of the center. Off the Autostrada they may close for lunch and from 7pm to 7am, especially outside of the main cities. Self Serve is now sprouting up. You need bank notes (L50,000 are best, have spares in case the reader won't take your first bill, and it won't). There is usually only one machine to take the payment and you need to enter the pump number. Pago and pagare (I pay, to pay) mean pay so look for that. I have never got a credit card to work at a self serve. If you don't use all the amount you prepay, return to the pay station and get a receipt which you can return with to get your change.

Most stations are full serve. "Pieno" is fill it up and "Senza piombo" is unleaded.

The Carbanieri are out in force on all Italian holidays so obey the speed limit. On non Holidays this is good advice to get you killed. I think that not speeding in Italy is a mortal sin.

Fiat Punto's and 500's and the tri wheeled truck-thingies are deathtraps. Never drive in one and they will drive you nuts trying to pass them in the hills.

Following the signs on the minor roads in Italy is an adventure. You will be looking for signs marked Certaldo and then all of a sudden Certaldo is not on the next three signs. You are now lost. Or not. Stop at the nearest bar, order a caffe and ask. You will be told sempre diretto (or straight ahead). Always. Remember, if you are lost you are having an adventure.

More advice


Don't drive in Naples!

Drive fast and don't look in the rear view mirror. You don't want to know!

Pull over and let all German cars pass immediately. In fact, pull over and let all cars pass immediately. If you get passed by a Fiat Punto, a Panda or one of those three wheel truck-thingies you have probably crashed or driven into a ditch.

If you get lost, you are having an adventure.

Don't drive in Naples!

The Costeria Amalfi (Amalfi Drive) is a piece of cake if you don't mind turning you wheel continuously. The buses will amaze you as much as the view.

If you make a U-turn on an unpaved road in the middle of nowhere in Toscana and drive into a ditch, someone will show up and pull you out. And then they will politely point out the turnabout 50 Mt. In front of where you had your adventure. Be sure to get their picture or no one will believe you. Of course, this is just a hypothetical example of the friendliness of Italian drivers!

If your car fits, its a parking space. In the hill towns, there is always a paid parking lot close to the center and usually lots of free parking. Unless it says Passo Carriable (or something close) which means no parking. Also learn the sign for no parking. I will not describe it. Have them show it to you at the car rental place.

In many towns and cities, parking is paid via a Parcheggio machine. You go to the machine and pay for your time and the machine prints a receipt. You put the receipt on the dash and go. Look to see when payment is necessary and when parking is free.

Stop often and eat gelato.

Last, don’t drive in Naples.

Actually, if you’re from Boston, forget all I said about Naples, Neapolitans drive like wimps.

These are great Dean!
You've brought humor and insight to a subject that strikes terror into my heart:
Driving in Italy!

Thank you!

Dean, that was a hoot! Plus, every word is true. Thanks.

Beautiful Dean--I could not have said it better. For good tips on driving and signage in Italy go to this site:
www.slowtrav.com I have driven in Italy about a dozen times and only had one problem. The cops in Perugia are still looking for me after I sped away from a toll gate after having failed to get a ticket near Naples when I got onto the Autostrada. How do you feel about driving in Naples ?

Bob the N

It's a hoot compared to Boston!

Even cab rides in Naples are a real treat. Better than the Matterhorn at Disneyland and only $9.00 from the station to the Museo

As to run ins with the police, not only do I have the no ticket escapade on the strada, there was the speeding on the holiday by Ravenna where I got off scott free because I was a dumbamerican who didn't understand the solicitation for a bribe they were making.

I'm not sure which lane it was, but I was able to use a 'regular' credit card in the toll lanes of the Autostade.

it was FUN driving in Italy!
Although did get a bit lost in Rome
I esp. loved the parking.
(and I am not joking!)
But, I grew up learning to drive in N.Y.C

Dean, you are right on - that was great. I hope those of you wondering about driving in Italy read this. I always felt very comfortable driving in Italy, except the cities. But even in Rome or Florence, it has to be looked at as an "adventure." Like the first time you drive in San Francisco, or I imagine New York. So go for it. The freedom to stop any time you want is very rewarding.

What a hoot!

Dean-right on target! as someone else has said, driving Italy is like having a heart attack and enjoying it!
did you see the "rules" i posted earlier this year for driving the Amalfi Coast? you would probably understand them better and appreciate them more than most readers. if you haven't seen them, let me know and i'll top them for you.
thanx for your wit and insight.

did not see you amalfi coast driving tips. Love to see them

Dean: Now why don't you tell us how you REALLY feel about driving in Naples? Sandy.

Driving in new towns always is fun.

Hi Dean. Thanks for the wonderful report. Do you (or anyone else) have any tips for a female driving alone? Your comments on the fast/crazy drivers make me a little gunshy. Help! Sallie

Sallie -

Lock the doors; leave the maps under a jacket, unless your stopped and reading them; turn your large stoned rings into the palm, of your hand, keep one hand on the horn and drive like you're Mario Andretti.

Sallie--see Christina's responses to "Rules for Driving the Amalfi Coast" for an Italian female's approach to driving Italy. Her response #3 pretty well sums it up. You will have an unforgettable experience!

A few comments - In the last year we have taken 2 trips to Italy, the first year we drove from Rome to Florence. The second year we drove from Rome to the Amalfi Coast, then on to Naples, took the ferry to Sicily, and then spent 14 days driving in Sicily.

Let me first say that I have the experience of driving on Long Island and often in New York City. At no time did I find the driving in Italy to be more than I could take - even my experience in Naples.

Reading the comments on this forum really had me worried about the Amalfi Coast and Naples - I almost backed out. I am glad I didn't. The flexibility of having my own vehicle certainly outweighed the aggravation of driving.

I don't want to minimize the aggravation - if you are not comfortable in congestion or complicated situations, take a cab. But if you drive in U.S. metropolitan areas, you can probably cope with Italy - even Naples.

Bob

to the top

Thanks Sam, and thanks Az for tipping me off to reading about the Amalfi Coast. Great post! Sallie.

You hit it - but whats about Naples? Dont understand. It is just the same than any other bigger city. Even more one ways. And You havce forgotten one fact: after 10 pm. dont care for the colours on the traffic lights. Just go ahead.

I was there last Feb. Driving from Pisa to Rome I was pulled over by the Polizia. They asked for my registration for my rental car. When I gave it to them they asked where the original was. I told them that was all I had. They gave me a ticket for not having a proper registration. When I returned the car to Europcar which I rented thru Autoeurope, they laughed and said this happens all of the time. They don't put the originals in the car because they get stolen. Obviously the police know this and look for rental cars. When I got home I told Autoeurope about this and they knew about it also. The only good thing was I did not have to pay for the ticket. Otherwise driving is fun there. I had a Mercedes Diesel wagon and I was the big dog on the road. The funniest thing I saw was Jeep Grand Cherokees over there.

Naples is indeed a scary place to drive in and the other issue is that of theft. If you look at the condition of the taxi's in the city they are far more banged up than those of Rome. Would I ever drive there, not really since the transit system is so spectacularly designed (far superior to Romes). But am I actually afraid of driving there? Not really. If you read to the end of the post, you see that I was setting up a joke!

And I have driven in Boston.

I have driven in Naples! I was the only one following the rules! Driving in Italy is fine. Just be sure before you go you know what the road signs mean. We had our car towed away for parking in a no parking zone. Also be sure you understand all the workings of the car before you leave the car rental agency. It took me 15 minutes to find reverse and drove around for 2 nights without rear lights. I wondered why everyone was coming up so close to me on those winding roads on the Amalfi coast. But it's great to have the freedom to drive anywhere and any time you choose in such a lovely country. I hope you enjoy your trip. Italy is my favorite European country.

I am surprised that no one has mentioned the big rule. Never drive in the left lane unless you are passing. I am a 67 year old lady and I sometimes find it easier to drive on the autostrada than our freeways. There are only two lanes and you only get in the left lane when passing. The only places I do not drive are in the cities. As far as I am concerned, driving outside the big cities is the best way to see the real Italian ways.
A big caution, when filling up at the pump, make sure you use gazole? I had a gasoline engine, but thought I had a deisel engine and filled up with deisel. What a mistake. Had to be towed in. This whole incident took up a whole day. What an experience

topping for susan

Who said that driving in Naples is like driving in NYC???? OH PLEASE!! Never saw one car driving directly down the center line EVER in NYC! Also, you can't stop at a red light or stop sign in Naples or you'll be hit in the arse...almost every time. Did you know that it's legal to slap a person with an open hand, which I've seen between 2 angry drivers in Naples. If my point hasn't been proved.....the military persons stationed in Naples recieve an extra chunk of cash each month just so that they can afford car insurance.
The difference is NIGHT AND DAY!!!

absolutely hilarious!!!

tttt

topping for karen

How much is gasoline in Italy?

What is so bad about driving in Boston? I live near there and do not find it challanging. You are either stuck in a traffic jam or driving 10 miles above the speed limit. The key to good driving is to remember that in MA everyone drives in the breakdown lane! New York is far crazier and I have no intention of driving in Italy!

Good post Dean!

Hi

Gas was about L1600 or $.75 a liter for Gasolio (diesel) and about L1900 or $.85 for Senza Piombo (unleaded regular). You get about 3.9 liters to the gallon. Most cars in Italy have smaller motors so you tend to see better mileage per gallon. Its still expensive but not the worst pricing in Europe.

All the Autostradas ahve excellent gas stations open 24 hours. In the countryside gas is harder to find and there are now self serve stations. This is a relief as full serve gas stations often close for lunch and close early in the evening.

i loved driving in italy...it was my first trip anywhere and it was a challange, but i love to drive anyplace. i noticed in milan, the key is to not make eye contact with any driver that is trying to cross in front of you, just look straight ahead and drive. i thought someone had stolen the car,but we lost it on one of the million little streets. later, found it with a parking ticket..still have the ticket in my photo album!!! great fun, but my husband might differ.

We live on Long Island and drive in NYC but thanks--after reading the threads are happy we opted for a cruise instead of driving

Dean....sounds just like my experiences driving in Spain. Many of the locals haver abandoned the old traditional Spanish folksongs...and are now singing new songs....about the 2 crazy Amricans driving through Spain. You should have seen the delight on the faces of the 5 8-YO boys who discovered us wedged in (what I thought was a narrow street, but was) an ally that got progressively narrower. We were being followed by 7 or 8 other cars filled with tourists who (sadly) thought we were locals and knew where we were going. You'd have really enjoyed our driving around Seville looking for our hotel...or in Granada trying to find our way BACK to the hotel.

My one word of advice driving in Europe. 4 consecutive right (or left) hand turns will NOT get you back to where you started. In fact, you'll be lucky if you're still in the same country.

J

topping for Renee

topping for mike

Very informative and entertaining. Dean, have you ever thought about writing a travel guide yourself? I've read your wine reviews (if you're the same Dean), and now your driving tips. Made me laugh out loud at work. Keep up the good work.

topping for mike. Not exactly about the Amalfi but more about driving in general. I ahve rented a car in Italy 7 times and while the cars ahve returned damaged, I have not.

Well, after hearing so many horror stories about driving in Italy, I finally did it, for four days in Tuscany this past April and you know what? It wasn't nearly as bad as the horror stories I'd heard.

To be sure, many of the Italians love to drive fast, and tailgate. But, on two-lane roads, the vast majority would pass as soon as they had the chance. The only ones that bugged me were the ones who tailgated even when they had ample opportunity to pass. They seemed to get pleasure out of tailgating.

The main thing that was a little unnerving at times was when someone would zip around a corner, heading at you, and they'd be halfway over in your lane, but I've seen that in France as well as Italy.

With one exception, I never had a problem with people tailgating on the autostrada (one guy had plenty of room to pass yet kept so close to me I could hardly see the front of his car.) In fact, I LOVED driving on the autostrada because, as with the autoroutes in France, people understand the simple concept of slower-traffic-to-the-right, faster-traffic-to-the-left, a concept that eludes many people in the Seattle-Tacoma area and, in fact, the entire state of Washington. I don't know what it's like in your metropolitan areas or states, but where I live, there are a lot of people ("enforcers", I've heard them called) who feel that, as long as they're going the speed limit, they have every right to drive in the left-hand passing lane. And to make matters even worse, every day I run into people who even drive less than the speed limit, cluelessly tootling along in the passing lane, stacking cars up behind them. I've yet to see this on an autoroute in France or an autostrada in Italy and I wonder what accounts for the difference?

Capo: "I wonder what accounts for the difference?"
Maybe the fact that in most (if not all) European countries it is against the law to pass on the right. If I'm not mistaken, in the US one can legally pass someone in the right lane as well, so if you've really had it with one of those "enforcers", you just go. The same enforcer in Europe will be tailgated right into the bushes because there's no choice.

Thanks, pass. I may be mistaken, but I thought it IS illegal to pass on the right in most, if not all, states in the U.S.

Interestingly, in Washington State, one is NOT legally entitled to drive in the passing lane even if one is doing the speed limit, something so many people appear to assume. One is entitled to drive in the passing lane only when: passing, entering the lane from an on-ramp, or exiting to an off-ramp (the freeway in Seattle has numerous left-lane entries & exits...very poor design.)

I think part of the reason for the difference is that Europeans are more willing to work together on the freeways, in order to achieve a smooth flow of traffic. A sense of "traffic community", if you will. Perhaps what happens with us Americans is our individualism; we feel we should have the right to drive however we please even if it wreaks havoc with the overall flow of traffic.

Hi

I live fairly close to Italy and visit several times each year.

The main autopista pista driving is a bit like LA. Except out of the cities it is faster, but more disciplined.

In city centres there is a lot of local knowledge ( do we really need to stop at this red light etc. )

But out of city rush hours driving in Italian cities is no problem.

Peter

Capo: "I wonder what accounts for the difference?"
Maybe the fact that in most (if not all) European countries it is against the law to pass on the right. If I'm not mistaken, in the US one can legally pass someone in the right lane as well, so if you've really had it with one of those "enforcers", you just go. The same enforcer in Europe will be tailgated right into the bushes because there's no choice.

I loved driving in Italy, no problems. It was great to drive all over Tuscany, down narrow roads that led to little treasures. Got so use to seeing strata deformata signs, that now whenever my traveling partner and I want to remember the trip all one of has to say is strata deformata. The Autostrata was great--I have a lead foot and thoroughly enjoyed myself even in a small Fiat. Could only dream of what it would be like to drive my BMW on it!! I live in San Francisco and routinely drive down Highway 1 to Big Sur, so maybe I have been acclimated to winding roads, but driving in Italy didn't seem at all scary.

Sorry I posted twice by mistake.
Capo: in Florida, for instance, passing on the right is legal when there are two or more lanes of traffic moving in the same direction. So it is common practice on I-95 and other highways. When I moved there from Europe many years ago, I stuck to my European principle "right lane, except when passing", with blinkers and all. But after a couple of months, I gave up and started passing both left and right, and sticking to just any lane I felt comfortable in, like everyone else.

I recently moved back this side. Trust me, it takes only a couple of halogen flashes in your rearview mirror to remind you where your place is, even when you're doing 100 mph.
Thanks for the compliment about our "sense of traffic community, if you will", but I feel the "enforcement" by the Porsches and BMW's has a lot to do with the discipline you (and I) so much enjoy.

You know...I was really getting excited about the possibility of planning a surpise vacation in Italy for my husband's 60th birthday. Then I read here about driving in Italy. I would HAVE to drive cause I don't think I could stand an escorted bus tour (no offence -just not my style) My husband just barely survived being a passenger in the car while I drove through Scotland - which sounds like a cake-walk comapred to Italy! But trying to operate a standard shift with the wrong hand, on the wrong side of the road with these regular road signs saying "oncoming traffic may be in centre of road"...sure, no problem. But where will I be?...down either side? I've driven in Boston several times. That was actually a snap because the traffic congestion is so awful that I never made it past 40mph, and that was the highway! So, am I crazy to contemplate driving in Italy? It's my husband's 60th, but he's an awesome guy and I really want him here to see 61! He hates getting lost. He hates "adventures"...as in the "I'm not totally sure where I'm going darling, but let's just enjoy the trip" variety. All of you have me seriously spooked. I'm Canadian. We do silly things like stop for stop signs. I feel like I should take a few spins at Indy before I even contemplate Italy. Is there any good news out there? Some of you hinted that it really wasn't THAT bad, but it lacked conviction somehow.

I also loved driving in Italy. We did get lost trying NOT to drive in Naples and ended up driving in Naples.

Really fun was when we were on a road with mopeds driving the other direction on both sides of us! Don't ask why, I still don't know.

If someone is coming up fast behind you, let them pass. They may not stop!

Got the autostrada ticket at Milan, put it on the dashboard, opened the window a few miles later, out it went! My explanation must have been pretty funny, as there wasn't any problem in the end. We'd started at the beginning anyway, so just paid what we owed when we got off.

Doug

Sally--This thread is about how people LIKED driving in Italy and how much they enjoyed it. I don't know about the other posters, but I believe we were all trying to encourage those of you whom seemed reluctant to drive there. Is it different than driving in the US, yes, but not different bad. Do people drive fairly fast on the autostrada, yes; but my sister who I would never describe as a speed demon, had no problems.

Sally, I LOVED driving in Italy and, as long as you're not an overly timid driver, I think you would too. Yes, many of the people there drive fast but, to me, they also drive "heads up" and I'd rather be driving with faster drivers who are aware than slower drivers who are clueless. I have not driven in any countries, like England or Scotland, where driving is the reverse of what I'm used to. That seems more challenging to me than driving in Italy so, if you drove in Scotland, I think you'd do fine in Italy.


Pass, thanks for that info about Florida. I didn't know that passing on the right was legal in any state and I don't *think* it is in Washington state (but I may be wrong.) Your mention of the Porsche and BMW drivers acting as "enforcers" of a different sort, and thereby contributing to traffic flow on European superhighways sounds reasonable to me. But at least people are aware they should move over. Here in the Seattle area, people generally won't budge from the passing lane, even if you honk or flash your lights (two things, which interestingly enough, I believe are illegal, so that doesn't leave many options for drivers stuck behind a slowpoke.)

So anyway, that makes me wonder what would happen if a Seattle-area driver in the passing lane (an immoveable object) met an Italian driver in a Porsche (an unstoppable force)?

Sally, definitely do the trip! I drove for the first time in Italy two years ago with three kids in tow and one iffy road map, and I loved it. I agree with the other posters who said that Italian drivers are more aware than US drivers, and that makes it comfortable even when the roads are poorly marked and it's obvious that the other drivers would like to be going twice your speed. Just have a little faith and don't worry. Put it this way: my husband was there on a cycling tour, and I would much rather have him riding on skinny twisty roads with those "crazy" Italian drivers than here in the States any day!

Go, have a wonderful time, and make some fantastic memories with your lucky husband.

topping for Jill

topping for barb

Was anyone else followed all over Italy by "Tailgateman?" You know...there's no one in the rear view mirror, and then 3 seconds later someone (Tailgateman!!)is right on your bumper. We ultimately decided that there must be a correlation between the driving speeds and the amount of espresso consumed. Seriously, driving is absolutely the best way to see Italy outside the large cities. Our worst experience was getting lost at night in Poggibonsi. We simply couldn't find the main highway and kept going in circles with no one around to ask directions. I am embarrassed to say this happened to us more than once...

topping for Kristen

I agree, drive is fun in Italy. They drive fast, don't obey traffic signs, speed limit, traffic rules. You do not know what tailgaiting means before you drove in Italy, but they use to flash at you from a distance, so you have been warned to move over.
My friend tried to pay with Cerit Card at the strada, but the machine took the card and it took a while to find someone to open the machine and get the card back.
I think the mopeds are very pushy, they are constantly buzzing around you like bees.
I got lost in Rome, made a wrong turn, took me a half an hour to get back to the same spot I were, but I've seen so many beautiful things along the way, that at the end we were happy we got lost.
Naples are lot worst than Rome. Better to park- I parked right at the Herculaneum Scavi gate, and right behind the Polizia- then took the train to Naples (Circumvesuviana).
Don't be afread to drve the Amalfi Coast. I took the bus -the drivers are amazing- but I regret that. It could be more fun to drive that road. We listened to people on this topic who told scarry stories about the coast drive. It is not true. The drive is very safe, but make sure if your car has standard gare, you know how to use it.

A few comments from a non driver.

The usage of lights on the autostrada

As fast as you may drive, if you see someone that from a verly /very, very very) long way behind you flashes a few times his headlights, just move to the slowest lane: he will be right behind you in the next 35 seconds and, in case you haven't moved to the slow lane, he will move to the slow lane at top speed and pass on you right!

Be aware of some plates

In the old days, Italian plates used to show the province from which the car came. Now the province is still there, but it is much smaller and written in blue. The plates to avoid are Como (CO), Cuneo (CN), Ferrara (FE), Siena (SI). 90% of these drivers are granted to be poor and slow drivers. Also be aware of old man driving with their hat on and of mothers with children and shoppers in the back seat.

Driving in Tuscany

They are known to drive at 2 mph and in the very center of the road. Tuscany is the only area of Italy where I can drive: I do not have a driving licence, but you do not need it for driving in Tuscany!

Marilyn
Why are you embarassed? It happens to us all the time. Sooner or later you will find your way.

Sally
I'm also canadian, and we have to stop at the stop sign. The italian also stop at the stop sign, when the see somone is coming. Otherwise they do not stop. But you do not worry. You obey the signs, and just watch for the other cars. When you will have a right off way, they will let you go. The same thing applies when you want to walk cross the street. Until you stand on the walkway nobody gonna stop for you. But when you stepped on the road the will stop for you.