Excellent idea, ira

I'll add:
How can I purchase Italian train tickets in the USA--I'm arriving and immediately need to take a train, concerned about getting a seat, etc:
call 1 800 CIT TOURS

What are some tour guide agencies in Rome?
www.througheternity.co
www.scalareale.org
www.enjoyrome.com

sorry, that was througheternity.com

ttt

Great idea Ira. We had done a similar scenario about 3 years ago, but the new comers will be able to use this. Here are some more that may help:

Q. What are the best web sites for Italy
A. www.initaly.com www.slowtrav.com
www.itwg.com www.knowital.com
www.venere.it[hotels] www.twenj.net

That is a good start !

Q. Tell me what to do in Venice?
A. Here is a single page fact sheet:
NAVIGATING IN VENICE
BEFORE YOU ARRIVE: Good web sites are www.veniceforvisitors.com & www.veniceinfo.com

ARRIVAL IN VENICE: What a treat when you first view Venice from either entry point. For airport arrivals, you have 2 choices. The ALILAGUNA bus/boat service will cost about 12E pp and take 1:10 to the vaporetto stop at San Marco. From there, you can connect to the stop for your hotel. The private speed boat service is expensive?about 80E?but it can hold up to 6 people with luggage if you can share the cost. It is much nicer and takes about :40 to your destination of choice. For train arrivals, you step out of the station onto the Grand Canal and also have 2 options. The vaporetto is a crowded city bus, but only costs about 4E. However, if you plan to stay for 3 days or more, go ahead and buy the 3 day pass for about 20E pp. It will save you if you plan to use them for primary transport. The private sleek speed boats are like taxis, but will cost you about 50E, depending on your destination.

TOUR GUIDES IN VENICE: We suggest www.walksinsidevenice.it for personalized and theme walking tours. However, www.venicewalksandtours.com has many varied tours both in Venice and day trips to surrounding areas and are well priced.

DO NOT MISS: Venice can be experienced in 3,5,or 7 day scenarios. If you only have 3 days, here is what I would see first. You can see all of Venice by walking & using vaporettos
? San Marco square?the Basilica & Campanile [ascend the Campanile for great vistas]
? The Doge?s Palace & Correr Museum [ combo ticket includes both]
? The Bridge of Sighs [ the Palace tour will allow you to see from the inside]
? Rialto Bridge and market [ a good early morning walk]
? The Frari Church & Scuola San Rocco [some of the best art in Venice]
? The Ca? Rezzonico Museum [ see how 18th century Venice lived]
? Galleria del Accademia & Accademia Bridge [ fabulous Renaissance art]
? The Palaces on the Grand Canal [ it takes 3 roundtrips to see it well]
? Isle of San Giorgio Maggiore [ take #82 to see Palladio church?ascend Campanile]
? Explore lagoon by vaporetto to see Burano & Murano [ takes a half day?plan well]

WHERE TO EAT: Food in Venice gets mixed reviews?I hope you like seafood. Here are a few places that we found to be good and not too expensive.

? Pizzeria Foscarini [ at foot of Accademia bridge?great location for lunch]
? Vino Vino [ filled with locals for lunch?near Kette Hotel and La Fenice Opera House]
? Osteria de Carla [ a small family place with good food near San Marco & Frezzeria]
? Taverna San Trovaso [ on Rio of same name near Accademia Bridge?reasonable]
? Ristorante da Raffaele [ great al fresco dining on canal near Santa Maria del Giglio.

WHERE TO HANG: That is tough?all of Venice is a good place to hang and people watch.
However, here are several of the neighborhood campos that we liked:
? Campo Santo Stefano, Campo Santa Margherita, Campo Santa Maria Formosa
? And, by all means, the most fabulous Campo of all?Piazza San Marco . It is an after dinner tradition to sit and listen to the dueling bands at the various cafes lining both sides of San Marco. The music is great, but bring your wallet if you plan to sit. We usually have gelato and coffee?plan to spend 30E+ with tip?but it is worth it. Many of the people merely stand and enjoy the scene. Either way, it is time well spent.

Very good idea Ira, it sure would help to have FAQ's for people coming to Italy. I was thinking of writing a sort of mini-guide to high tides (or floods as they call them) in Venice myself!

Federico
Venice

IRA
Thanks again for your terrific ideas!!

BOB
Thanks...I've written it all down in my notes!!

FEDERICO
Great idea...how are the HIGH TIDES in November??

ira and others, thanks so much for this info. my daughter is going from Rome to Amalfi and coming over this evening to work on train and boat connections. Couldn't have been a more timely posting. All my work is done.

OK guys, here's my little guide to the high tides in Venice, or floods, or more properly ACQUA ALTA

VENICE - A GUIDE

ACQUA ALTA!

Ok, first of all a little introduction. 'Flood' is perhaps not the best word to use, since the, well, 'flooding' in Venice is caused by the floodTIDE. Although it often reminds me of a swamp, Venice actually sits in a lagoon that communicates with the sea through 3 openings (the 3 bocche di porto of the Lido, of Malamocco and of Chioggia). Not many people seem to realize that - I even overheard some Italians (!!!) on a vaporetto the other day, who noticed how low the water was in the canals, and one of them asserted that it was due to the drought. Congratulations buddy, you got it all wrong!
Anyway, now that we got that sorted, everything else should be easier to understand...

***Q1: Darn! I am going to Venice and I heard floods are about. Will that ruin my whole holiday? Should I cancel my trip and go another time?

A1: There is no need to cancel your trip! The floods only last a couple of hours (3, 4 hours tops, if the Southerly scirocco wind is particularly strong, but that doesn't happen all too often), until the tide starts going down again. Now, the tide comes into the lagoon and goes out every 6 hours, not just when the water is so high that your knickers get wet. It's just that sometimes it is higher than usual. This is due to a combination of many factors - the attraction of the moon (well they say it's that anyway), the scirocco wind, streams in the Adriatic Sea, and low atmospheric pressure.
Several people I've met seem to think it is a disaster that happens every year and lasts days and days, much like when a river overflows. This is NOT the case! It happens from time to time, we Venetians are used to it and we deal with it accordingly.

***Q2: OK, so they are tides. When do they usually get higher?

A2: There might be some minor ones in September, and late spring, but the peak is usually from mid/end-October to mid-February/March, so let's say from mid-Fall to end of Winter.

***Q3: OK, suppose I did go to Venice after all. Will I know in advance if the tides will be high?

A3: If you have a computer handy, and your Italian is good enough, check out the site of the Centro Previsioni Maree (Tides Forecast Center) of Venice: http://www.comune.venezia.it/maree/
Also, when a tide is particularly high (>+110cm and <+140CM) sirens spread throughout the lagoon will sound off about 3hrs in advance as a warning. They will sound off again if the tide is forecast to exceed 160cm above 0, which has only happened once or twice in recent decades.

***Q4: So I am in Venice AND there is a high tide. What do I do? Will I have to swim my way across St.Mark's square or what?

A4: Nope, nope, put those flippers away. As the level of the ground varies slightly in various parts of the city, where it is lowest (and therefore deepest under water), boardwalks are swiftly set up if necessary. S.Marco is in a very low zone of the city so it is among the first parts to go under.
Where boardwalks are not present, and the water is low enough, gum boots are all you need (among all the touristy stuff, some stalls also sell plastic boots. Most locals have their own boots at home, though sometimes even I don't put them on beforehand or carry them with me to school, either because I'm lazy or because I am convinced the water won't be too high that particular day!

A note when walking on the boardwalks: keep on the right-hand side, and for pity's sake, DON'T stop right in the middle of one - they are quite narrow and you will be more than frowned upon by locals That's something you should also keep in mind in narrow streets and such.

Some people just take off their shoes, roll up their pants and wallow happily in the water. I don't recommend that as the water of the lagoon is not exactly the cleanest. It's your call though!

P.S. The water comes up also through the gully-holes, so even if you see no canals in your immediate surroundings the street in front of you may still be flooded.

If you find this is too much to deal with, just wait a couple of hours until it's over. But it's quite fun actually!

***Q5: OK, now I know what it is all about. What about the locals? What do YOU do? Do your houses get flooded?

A5: Very few people, if any, live on the ground floor nowadays - most homes are on upper floors. For the most part, shops and warehouses have taken their place at ground level. So shopkeepers have the biggest problem! They solve it either with watertight bulkheads on the doors (which work quite well), or quite simply by putting wooden socles under pieces of furniture, so as to raise them and save all the precious merchandise (I wish the sellers of masks and all that kitsch stuff didn't bother with that, so at least part of their horrible stuff got washed away, but that's another story).

BONUS QUESTIONS!

***Q6: Is Venice really sinking?? Will it still be up when I go there? (....OK, OK, I KNOW no one of you would ever ask THAT! Just teasing ya a bit... )

A6: If it has been sinking recently, I did not notice it. Too many people think that Venice is doomed to drown soon, and now scientists say that the tectonic plate under the Adriatic, and under Venice, is slowly sinking. While that is probably true, we're not drowning just yet, and if it does happen, it will take centuries and centuries. I suppose global warming, the melting of the Poles, and all that gloom & doom they have been predicting lately, will be an important factor in that.

***Q7: Do all Venetians have a boat? Do they use it to go shopping, go to work, or go visit friends etc.?

A7: Nope, not everyone has a boat. A boat is quite an expense to mantain, and having your own place to moor it can be very expensive - and often it is not close to your home. Among youngsters my age, it is cool to have your own boat, to take out your friends, or girlfriend, maybe for a romantic drive in the lagoon. I personally do not feel the need for my own boat
Anyway, the point is that the Venetians who DO have a boat do not use it for everyday things, but more commonly for little Sunday excursions in the lagoon and such.


Well this is it for now. I hope you had fun reading this and will keep in mind these little tips and tricks

Federico
Venice

Thanks for taking the time to post all that, Frederico!

Ira and all - Thank you so much for your thoughtful and neatly informative post! I wrote it all down! YAY! Thanks again!

Ira - Thank God for the expert wisdom of you, Bob, and all the other Fodor contributors. While I appreciate so many perspectives, there are some things that are generally agreed on by all. Thanks for helping clear the cobwebs out of our heads!

May I suggest, for EXCEPTIONAL photos of accommodations and surroundings in both quality and quantity, any of the worldby.com sites. For a sample, see http://italyby.com/palazzosasso/index.html. This particular sample is an enchanting 5*, but the photos of all the others are just as emcompassing. They are by far better than any site I have found for photos. Another poster had used the services of the site and gave it good reviews. initaly.com is a great site as well, but I found the photos to be very limiting albeit better than those on some other sites. I think you should be pleasantly surprised. I would love to know what you think (perhaps in a new thread in case it is debatable so as not to cloud the clean thread here). Enjoy!

Many thanks to all fo you!!!!

Federico.....thanks for the high-water report!!!
My boots are packed!!

What to do about money.

ATMs (bancomat) are available throughout the country. They give you the best exchange rate. European banks do not charge for the service. Your own bank probably levies a fee for use of your card at ATMs that it doesn't own. See your bank.

Your bank probably has a limit for cash withdrawls. You might be able to have this raised. See your bank.

Many people bring Traveler's Checks or cash as emergency backup.

In the rare event that you card gets stuck in a machine, it can be removed with a pair of tweezers.

It is a good idea to use ATMs located at banks so that in the rare event that the ATM eats your card you can retrieve it immediately.

What about personal safety and avoiding theft?

I will try to keep this response neutral. In some touristed areas, pickpocketing and purse snatching has been on the rise. Although statistically the vast majority of locals and tourists do not become crime victims, a few precautions are suggested.

Some people like hidden wallets or money belts. These can be purchased at many outlets, including travel supply stores like Magellan (see website or call toll-free number in the USA) Others of us just stay with totebags that close tightly and are held comfortably but securely.
Backpacks can be more vulnerable to theft if you can't see or feel what's going on back there. Some people keep routine supplies in a backpack and secure their wallets in other ways.



Regarding vital documents, your credit cards, passport, etc.--Make a set of photocopies of the important pages of your passport, your credit cards, etc.
Leave one set with a trusted person at home, pack one set to take with you. You can also email the account numbers to yourself, and access the info from almost anywhere in an internet cafe.
Remember that toll-free customer service numbers don't work for calls coming from outside the USA, so have alternate numbers to call in case you lose one of your credit or atm cards.

Banks and card companies have differing policies about replacing cards and where they will send them; inquire in advance.

Some people recommend leaving their passport in the hotel safe and walk around only with a photocopy (in case it is needed for ID or for signing up for VAT refunds.) Other people don't want to be parted from their passport under any circumstances and always carry it with them. Some people will carry only one or two credit or atm cards, perhaps carrying one themselves and having their companion if there is one carrrying the other.

If you are in busy tourist places, crowded museums, subway/metros, crowded buses, etc, you need to be aware of skillful pickpockets. Sometimes these "petty" criminals work in teams, sometimes they even use children. Someone may try to distract you with a sign or a request for a handout or even with spilling food on you. Walk away, or yell Go Away! very loudly. The worst you will be is embarrassed. At ATMs, offer no help, accept no help. If it's not working, walk to the next one.
In restaurants or cafes, don't hang your bag on the back of your chair; if you put it on the floor, keep it between your legs.

If you need to stop to reload your camera or consult your map or guidebook, take a seat somewhere, or step into a doorway. You are distracted, no sense in being taken advantage of.

This all sounds like a lot of warnings, but it is just common sense. To the extent that you can avoid being a victim, it's best to do what you can so you can enjoy your trip.

Good security answers from Elaine. For more tips for Italy travel go to slowtrav.com and under ITALY and then PLANNING you will find " 22 Terrific Travel Tips". Too long to replicate here

How do I make reservations for the Accademia and the Uffizi in Florence?

The easiest and cheapest way is to call Florence 011 (U.S. international access code) 39 (Italy's country code) then 055-294-883 8:30-18:30 M-F and 8:30-12:00 Sat. Florence time. You will get an English speaking operator and in 2-3 minutes YOU CAN RESERVE FOR BOTH. This is through the reservation service at the Uffizi and costs beyond the normal entry fee only about 1.60 euro for the service. This is MUCH cheaper than the commercial booking services.

How do I make reservations for the "Secret Itineraries Tour" of the Doge's Palace in Venice?

The number for reservations more than one day ahead is 011 39 041-520-9070.

to ira's good info on the museums, I will add:
Most hotels, even simple B&Bs, are willing to make advance dinner or museum reservations for you. If you are emailing or faxing them anyway, ask if they can take care of this for you.

What are the primary sightseeing venues that accept advance reservations:

Milan: DaVinci's "Last Supper"--required.

Venice: None required except Secret Itinerary of Doge's Palace (see above.)
To avoid the line at San Marco Basilica, you can (respectfully) attend an early morning mass and then stay to sightsee. There is an Italian website that offers reservations for time-restricted visits--www.alata.it

Rome: No advance ticketing for the Vatican Museums. Advance arrangements are necessary for the St Peter's Scavi (underground crypt) tour and for the Vatican Gardens.
Timed entrance is required for the Borghese Gallery, visit is limited to two hours. Your hotel can arrange, there are commercial websites, or you can go directly there and wait for an available entrance slot. The gardens are lovely to visit there if you have time to kill.

Timed tickets also required for Domus Aurea (Nero's Golden House.) Again, reserve in advance or take your chances on just showing up

topping

hoping for more helpful info.

I made reservations for the Ufizzi by calling the reservation number.
I was given a confirmation number, but I was not asked for a credit card for payment.
Does that sound right?
Is payment due when you call for the reservation?
Thanks,
Molly

Hmmm ! Have we missed the popular:

Q.How much time to drive from x to y ?

A. Go to www.viamichelin.com and enjoy

Hi ritamolly,

Good question.

It was not a mistake. The Uffizi and Accademia people will ask for the money when you arrive.

We should keep this thread going:

Q. What is the best map for Italy?

A. Michelin has regional maps that have very good detail[400k] for most travel:
# 561=NW Italy
# 562=NE Italy
# 563=centro Italy[Rome thru Toscana]
# 564=south Italy

If you need real detail[200k] then the TCI has an entire series by regions that you can buy in Italy.

How much time by train to go from x to y? How many trains per day?

www.trenitalia.com

Get to the station in time to determine the platform from which the train leaves. It helps to have the train number in order to do this, because the final destination of the train might not be your stop. Study the yellow departures board, found in every station, for your train, for this information. Or

On trenitalia.com, you can find this out by first getting a list of proposed solutions for your journey; click on a solution to find the composite trains and their train numbers. By clicking on the train number, you can find out the names of the last couple of stops before your stop. This will enable you to be prepared to alight at your stop, at which the train may stop very, very briefly before proceeding. Watch and observe how others open the door - it isn't always automatic!

ES* is the Italian Eurostar,the highest speed train, reservations are part of your ticket purchase.

IC is "Intercity" - a fast express train for which reservations are available for an additional fee.

D and IR trains stand for Diretto and Interregionale. No reservations are available - it's first to sit, gets to sit. They are the slowest trains, but also the cheapest, and will stop at small places passed over by the other trains. (You use these between the Cinque Terre towns, for example.)

In general, tickets are considered vouchers, valid only after you date-time stamp them in the little yellow machines in the station. When in doubt, stamp, to avoid being fined by the conductor.

How do I cope with Italian electricity if my electrical stuff is from the USA?


The electricity in Italy varies, with voltage in the range of 115-120. If you are American and your razor or hairdryer doesn?t have dual voltage capacity, you?ll need a current converter to change the current for your 220v appliances. However, dual voltage or not, you will need a plug adapter with round prongs for Italian outlets. When you buy the converter, it usually comes with, or you can also buy, plug adapters. I will add, and many people agree, that even with the proper voltage transformer and the proper plug adapter, American hairdryers and curling irons don't always work that well overseas.

Check in advance: your hotel may provide hair dryers, which would also save your packing one. Many of the hotel web sites have this information. It is difficult to find a hotel bathroom that has an outlet for you to plug in your hair dryer or other appliance. The bathrooms often have outlets for razors, but not for dryers. I have been known to move furniture around in the bedroom trying to get to a wall outlet. Thus, a hotel that supplies its own hairdryers in the bathrooms has a plus in my book.

http://kropla.com/electric.htm plugs and converters around the world

Hook up your modem just about anywhere www.kropla.com/phones.htm

Here is a website with pictures of all the various plug configurations plus other info on electricity
http://www.escapeartist.com/global/photos.html

Correction to Elaine's very useful post:

Europe, including Italy, uses 220V 50 hz power. The US uses 110 V 60 Hz.

These posts are wonderful! I think it would be great if Fodor's included them in their mini-guides to each city. Should we write to the editors??

Nah,

Collectively, we know more than they do.

thaks for the correction ira, I didn't mean to reverse the numbers.

nessuno problema, Elaine.

How can I daytrip to Pompeii from Rome?

This answer assumes that you don't want to take a bus tour, which is offered by several companies, including Enjoy Rome to mention just one. Most of the tours allow 2-3 hours at the Pompeii site; some include a drive through Naples, and some include a shopping stop.

The following info was originally gleaned from several sources, including, notably, a Fodors poster named Walter who now posts under another name. Due credit--Walter's info was very detailed (even more than what I am including here) but spot on.

The trip takes about three hours on the direct ES or IC trains with an easy change of trains in Naples. First you have to find your train from Rome to Naples:
Go to www.fs-on-line.com click-on "English", Now type-in your cities and use Italian spellings only (Roma, Napoli), type in your date, and then click on "Search". You want the Napoli Centrale station.

The Napoli Garibaldi station and Centrale are essentially the same station, Garibaldi is two levels below Centrale and Garibaldi is for trains continuing onward, while Centrale is a Termini meaning the trains end there.

In Rome's Termini station is a board on the right wall side exit (Via G. Giolatti) listing the train schedules. You?ll probably want to take an ES (Eurostar) or an IC (Intercity) train and will need to decide first vs second class, smoking or non-, and seat reservations. You can use credit cards.

When leaving that day also check the TV monitors for destination/binario /time of your train. The binario is the track number.

Be sure to stamp your ticket before you go to your train, using the little yellow machines. You will see everyone doing this.

At Napoli Centrale train station near the front doors is a wide staircase going down to the Circumvesuviana trains, the commuter train to Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Sorrento. At the bottom of the stairs bear left, you come upon a hallway with the Circumvesuviana ticket windows on the left (Metro ticket windows on the right).

Don?t go through the turnstiles opposite the ticket windows. Continue down the corridor and turn right. At the end of this hall are the Circumvesuviana turnstiles. On the wall in front of you 2 boards will post the next 2 arriving trains, you want the *Sorrento* train (don't worry if it's not listed yet). Half-way down *each* platform is another Departure Board and it will list that train's destination and time. The train's destination for you will be "Sorrento". The stop you want
is "Pompeii Scavi-Villa dei Misteri". Once there, you walk under the tracks outside the station turn right and walk about 50 yards.

The Pompeii station still had a luggage storage room last I heard, but it was unattended. You might want to secure your stuff with a travel cable and lock.

At the excavation site there are licensed guides who charge by the tour.
The price is the same for one or more people, so see if you can join with some others to divide the cost.

Alternatively,Rick Steves' book has a very good self-guided walk, and I am not normally his biggest fan.

Many people also, or instead, like going to Herculaneum because it is much smaller, better preserved, and less crowded.

very helpful, elaine

I know all the posters here have very good intentions. But I firmly believe all tourists deserve clear and accurate information. Please, before you make a contribution like this, take the time to clean up your info. Otherwise, you're not really helping anyone.

I come from a family of boaters and the word "navigation" was taken seriously. If you found yourself on water during a storm or in darkness you needed precise information to get you home safely. So, to narrow the focus of "bobthenavigator," I offer the following:

The Alilaguna is a boat (a bus has four wheels). The fee is 10 Euro from the airport to San Marco or Zaterre. Here is their fee chart: http://www.alilaguna.it/?funzione=122&fascia=0&idstazione0=0&idstazione1=0&contesto=2&valore=0

Bob's "private speed boat service" is actually called a "water taxi" or just plain "taxi." The word "taxi" appears on every taxi boat along with its registration number. The taxi business is regulated and fees are set. Don't expect any speedy boat rides. Speed is regulated in the lagoon and feels like a snail's pace to speed boat fans. Your water taxi trip-time will completely depend on your final drop off destination.

Vaporettos are boats, too, but are commonly called "waterbuses". A one-way ride on the Grand Canal is 3.50 Euro. A 72 hour pass (3 day) is 22 Euro. Here is their fare info: http://www.actv.it/eng/vapo_tariffe.htm

Again, Bob's "private sleek speed boats" ARE taxis and will cost you 10 Euro per person in and around the lagoon, depending on where you wish to go.

For one of Venice's most intellectual tours, you may wish to check out Venicescapes (http://www.venicescapes.org/) Michael Broderick is adorable but, oh, so intense.

Venice should be experienced in a lifetime. Never limit your visits unless you must. I prefer even numbers.

I agree with Vino Vino for cichetti and a great bottle of wine but expect service to be surly if you don't speak some Italian. And, if you need your American hands held in a Venice restaurant jam packed with Americans on a budget, by all means dine at San Travaso or Alla Madonna (which Bob did not mention).

For an interesting alternative to staying in a hotel, try staying in a convent or monastery.

Bob, thank you for your suggestion.

NYCFoodSnob, Bob was talking to me.

I'm sure you had good intentions, NYC, but you aren't helping anyone if you can't condescend properly! When you write "You may wish" instead of the correct "You MIGHT wish" [to check out Venicescapes] you are really letting down the snob ship, as it were. And what's this "final drop-off destination" business. What other kind of final destination did you have in mind for that water taxi? Please! Redundancy is soooooo tacky.

Hey folks,

I had hoped that this would be a list of useful information, please try not to turn it into a cat fight.

(my apologies to cats)

Thank you! You answered ny map question! I will return to this thread in the coming weeks.... I am sure.

Ira

When life hands you lemons, you can fret about 'em or make lemonade. My remarks were tongue in cheek.

See you in Italia in 04 : - )

Ira, Bob and everyone else,

Thank you for all this information, unfortunately, there seems to be someone on this board who cannot stand being the center of attention and IT has to criticize others to get all the attention. Life on this board was so cordial and informative, unfortunately, IT is back and will once again try to spew its venom out.

Let's all ignore IT, it is not worthy of the time of all the good and nice people who make up most of this board.

correction....

>>board who cannot stand being the center of attention and <<

Obviously I meant that it cannot stand NOT being the center of attention"

However, I have to add that already the editors of Fodors seem to have gotten wise to it.

Hi all,

Any more helpful information?

Ira-Do you speak Italian? You would be an excellent tour guide to take on a trip to Italy (smile). Thanks for all the information on Italy. This is going to help me alot in my planning..
Ciao!!

Hi Gail,

No capice Italiano.
Thank you for the kind words.

Back to the topic:
Q. How do I get to my hotel from the train station in Venice,Florence, Rome:

A. The best answer is to ask the Hotel.
They do it everyday. Or, check the map on the hotel web page.

TTT for the intended purpose

A useful link for the ES* trains.

Ooops,

I guess it might help if I posted the link.

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34419647

Should I visit the Lagoon Islands (Torcello, Burano, Murano) on my visit to Venice. How about buying glass on Murano?

Torcello is considered dull by some because it is sparsely populated (fewer than 100 people) and deserted-looking. It is where the settlement of the Venetian lagoon first began; its importance declined after epidemics of malaria and plague decimated the population of the island. At one time 20,000 people lived there, today it has fewer than 100 inhabitants. It has three (I believe) cafes (one is quite fine and beautiful, with its own garden, and is run by the Cipriani hotel/restaurant family) and no shopping to speak of except for one antique store. However Torcello has a church and a cathedral, part of which dates from the 7th century, with exceptionally beautiful mosaics and for me, Torcello is an unforgettable experience. It is always one of the best things I do in Venice.
You can?t get lost on Torcello, there is really only one path, Fondamenta dei Borgognoni, that leads from the boat landing, along an overgrown and murky canal. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the Cathedral. You will cross a stone bridge, passing the very nice Locanda Cipriani restaurant/inn mentioned above. tel 041 730150. Lovely terrace garden to eat on, or dine inside.. They will also send a launch to pick you up before your meal near the Danieli hotel in Venice, if you request this. www.locandacipriani.com Dinner is also served, and I think they also rent out some rooms. Closed in the winter. Past that restaurant, you will quickly come to first, the church of Santa Fosca, and then the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The latter is the church with the gorgeous mosaics.

On Murano you can go into a glass factory and watch them blow glass. Unless you are fascinated by the process or unless you intend to buy some "serious" glass items (as opposed to the small glass items that are all over Venice, Murano is not interesting or beautiful enough to be included on a short trip to Venice, in my opinion. Two churches there do have some important art works, San Pietro Martire and San Donato.

While I was in Venice for the first time I asked my concierge which boat I should take to Murano and Torcello. He told me that at 9am a free water taxi would take interested hotel guests to Murano, where the glass factories are. Thankfully, I had read about these arrangements. A particular glass factory arranges with a hotel to pick up interested guests by private boat. When the boat lands on Murano the passengers are offered a free tour of the sponsoring factory, after which they are encouraged to order some glass items. This is not necessarily a bad arrangement, but it means you don?t get to shop around at the other factories unless you strike out on your own, which I did.
When we arrived at the boat landing on Murano, I thanked the driver and went out to browse. Of course I had to make my own way back to Venice, but that was easy by vaporetto.
It turns out that much of the glass sold in Murano and Venice proper is mass-produced, and not all of it is even made on Murano, some of it comes from the Czech republic and elsewhere. Even on Murano, there are many glass shops that just sell souvenirs that may or may not be made there.

Burano is (literally) the most colorful of the lagoon islands, with its brightly-colored houses. It is a picture-taker's paradise. It is also known for lace-making. If you buy there, try to verify that the item was actually made there and not imported cheaply. There's also the San Martino church with a Tiepolo painting.

Thanks, Elaine

How do I get from Naples Airport to Sorrento?

rbrazill posted
There is a bus (Curreri Viaggi) which runs directly from outide the Naples Airport arrival terminal to Piazza Tasso in Sorrento. It runs frequently, takes about one hour and costs about 6 Euro. Here is a link:
http://www.curreriviaggi.it

Thanks Ira for starting this thread. Invaluable help, as always!

Now can somebody tell me a practical way to print all this out?

Deb

abqdeb, highlight what you want to print, right click your mouse, select "print," and choose "selection," then click "ok."

Or just click on any message on the right side of the screen and then click on the printer icon up in the toolbar. The whole thread will print.

Topping for Elaine.

ttt for the person seeking it.

Statia

thank you

How do I get from the Funiculare to the Duomo in Orvieto?

There is a bus stop right outside the funiculare station. The ticket for the funiculare is also good for the bus.

This one is a bit dated but still good to plan your budget:

Q. I have 2 weeks to see Italy-- how much should I budget for the trip

A. It depends on you, but here is a good start.
ITALY TRAVEL BUDGET

Independent travel to Europe continues to become even more popular with American tourists, and it seems that Italia has become everyone's favorite destination. This phenomenon is certainly not difficult to understand for those of us who have learned to savor "la dolce vita".
During the past four years I have been fortunate to have planned more than eighty personalized itineraries for independent travelers to southern Europe----most of them to Italy.
Understandably, one of the first questions I get from a prospective client is about the projected costs. My quick answer is the obvious one----" that depends on you and your preferred travel style". As we delve deeper it becomes clear that the style choices of would-be independents can vary widely-----from youth hostel backpackers to luxury five star jet-setters. We will ignore these extremes for now and concentrate on the more mainstream middle ranges. Here are some assumptions for our hypothetical itinerary:

A. This is a 14 day [13 night] itinerary to Italy for a couple during the shoulder season months of April, May, Sept. and Oct. These are the best months for travel to Italy.
B. Flying into Milan or Venice and out of Rome, or vice versa, with the purchase of tourist class tickets well in advance, or from a consolidator.
C. The 2-star budget assumes rail travel. The rental car options include all insurance and unlimited mileage. Car choices are compact/manual [3-star] and mid-size/auto [4-star].

Now that we have our parameters set let's go ahead and plan our budget. Remember, this is for planning purposes only and is really controlled by you. You may decide to blow the budget on Murano glass, leather in Florence, or silk in Bellagio. But, I do feel this to be a realistic estimate of expenses for this itinerary, based upon an exchange rate 2200L/$.
TRAVEL EXPENSE ITEM: 2 STAR 3 STAR 4 STAR ============================================================
AIRFARE--2 PEOPLE 1600 1600 1600
RAIL TICKETS--2 PEOPLE 500 N/A N/A
CAR RENTAL--ALL INCL. N/A 550 900
* PETROL N/A 200 250
* TOLLS N/A 50 50
TOTAL TRANSPORT $ 2100 $ 2400 $ 2800
HOTELS & INNS--13 NITES 900 1500 2200
FOOD & DRINK 600 900 1200
TOURISM COSTS 300 300 500
GELATO & CAPPUCCINO 150 150 200
MISC. EXTRAS 150 150 200

LIVING & TOURISM $ 2100 $ 3000 $ 4300
===============================================================
TOTAL TRIP COSTS: $ 4200 $ 5400 $ 7100 BUON VIAGGIO !

Oops ! Sorry about the tabs.

What is the weather likely to be during my trip?

weather web sites--compare the forecasts and historical info, sometimes they differ remarkably, I usually take an average:

www.wunderground.com On the home page you can click on the Europe map, and on the next screen click on your country. Then you get a list of cities to click on.
When you do that, you get a screen with the forecast on the right side, but on the left side, under Conditions, there is a submenu offering for historical weather info.

www.worldclimate.com/

www.washingtonpost.com weather section also has historical data

www.nytimes.com/

www.weather.com/

www.cnn.com/WEATHER/

www.usatoday.com/weather/

www.rainorshine.com/

www.timeout.com click on your city, then on weather

www.bbc.co.uk/weather

What kind of clothes should I wear/is there a dress code/what shall I pack?

how to pack and travel light: http://www.oratory.com/onebag/home.html

for suggestions on how to dress: www.twenj.net (a wonderful website anyway)

these are my opinions:

In the large European cities you will see plenty of people in shorts or jeans, tee shirts, and sneakers. Most of them will be visitors, from whatever places (including towns in that same country), unless they are also under 25 in which case they could be just local students.

Jeans are much too hot in warm weather in my experience, and you can't wash them out and have them dry inside of a week. If you are wearing shorts/mini skirts and sleeveless tops,you can't go into most churches, especially women. Men sometimes get by with walking shorts for some reason.

Does everyone in Europe dress well? No.

Do the big cities? business areas seem to have more people who dress chic-ly than in the average small town in America, or the average small town in Europe for that matter? Yes.

The question of what to wear has a lot more to do with what image you like projecting in your dress, rather than the bare minimum (pun intended) of what you can get by with. Middle and upper-class city-dwellers in cities, going about their grown-up business lives, will be mostly well-dressed.

Visitors are more concerned with walking miles every day and being comfortable. Someone once used the phrase "smart casual" which I think is a great compromise between backyard casual and business attire. Polo shirts and sport shirts or blouses, cardigans and blazers rather than sweatshirts, non-logo tee shirts, cotton or wool pants or skirts rather than shorts and jeans, etc.

It's not a matter of pretending to not be a tourist, it's a choice, assuming you care, to not look like you're going to a barbecue, "not that there's anything wrong with that" Of course either way people will still know that you are a tourist, but perhaps you?ll avoid looking like an unsophisticated or vulnerable tourist.Sometimes this topic degenerates to "slobbery" vs "snobbery". Either way, you won't be deported.

One thing I will strongly suggest, don't compromise on comfort when it comes to shoes. You will be miserable in shoes that don't help your feet, even if the shoes or sandals look a little clunky. Bring one sleeker pair for evenings if you like. Some people don't want to invest in an alternative pair of walking shoes, but sneakers are heavy to pack in a suitcase, and they are heavy to wear on a plane for hours at a time, and they don't look so good on those occasions when you do want to dress up a little. I'd rather pack or wear another pair of shoes that are more adaptable.

Many hotels, even small ones, can direct you to same-day or next day dry cleaning or laundry service. They may provide it as a service by sending it out for you. It?s a wonderful extra to pay for if you are going on to another location, or if you didn?t bring much with you and want your clothes to be fresh. Major cities always have coin-operated laundries in residential neighborhoods.

The best approach in terms of coping with temperatures that vary except in the heat of summer, is layering, and by all means take an umbrella in any season.

Thanks, Bob and Elaine

To keep this thread active.

Q. I am a new traveler to Europe and Italy. How do I get started?

A. Set your macro criteria first:
I get inquiries virtually every day requesting my help in developing a well conceived TRIP PLAN for independent travel in Europe. I am always willing to offer the benefit of my experience , but some requests can be a real challenge. Here is a recent example:

? Dear Bob, I have seen your frequent comments on the Fodors forum and would like your help in planning our family trip to Europe. We are a family of four and will be traveling in August to these places we have always dreamed about---the Cote d? Azur, Lake Como, Venice, Florence, Rome and the Amalfi coast. Can you please tell us where to stay and what to see? Oh yes, we only will have ten days and we will be on a tight budget.

The challenge is to inject a dose of realism without completely dousing the dream. Not an easy task. But, after having planned dozens of customized itineraries for others, I have learned that the most successful trips are invariably those that are conceived by considering the macro criteria first. You must start with the ? biggies ? in your planning phase and then the rest will fall into place. Anything less will seriously compromise the eventual trip success.
The above scenario is a textbook example of poor planning. It fails to consider these criteria:
WHEN ? Pick your destinations based upon optimal seasonal considerations. Avoid most of southern Europe in the hot summer months. Visit Iberia or Italy in April, May and October and save the Alpine venues, Ireland,and Scotland for June , July, and August.
HOW MUCH ? Your budget will often dictate which destinations are feasible. Set a realistic budget and then plan accordingly. Avoid the upscale coastal resorts during high season if you are budget sensitive.
ENOUGH TIME ? Trying to do too much is the most common planning error. A twelve day itinerary calls for a MAX of four destinations, and three is better. And, try to plan your route for less than four hours of travel time to the next destination--- by car or train.
RAILS OR RENTAL CAR ? Your mode of transport will determine trip timing and choice of destinations. Train travel can be efficient but is very limiting for off-the-path locations.
EXPERIENCE LEVEL ? Trip stress is directly related to your travel experience in Europe. So, plan your initial trip to minimize the stress factors. Above all, do not bite off too much !


You may not always be able to control these variables, but you do need to develop your trip strategy considering their eventual impact---it will make all the difference. The worst mistake is to start with the single criteria of ? WHERE? and then try to force feed the practical logistics .

My best advise is to start your plan with the assumption that you will be returning to Europe for subsequent trips. Get a good map and perceive Europe as geographic regions. Then, plan perhaps as many as three desired itineraries in advance. You will very likely return. Good luck!

great stuff, bobthe

Some info on Milan


The following info is from www.hellomilano.com
If you want to see da Vinci's Last Supper in Milan, a reservation is required. Groups are admitted at 15-minute intervals.. To book, phone 02.8942.1146: the number answers Mon-Fri 9.00 to 18.00, Sat 9.00-14.00. Operators speak English. (From abroad, phone +39.02.8942.1146). The operator will give you a code number and the time of the visit: you actually collect and pay for tickets on
the day of your visit, at least half an hour before scheduled time. You can hire an audio cassette guide (recommended here on Fodor?s forum) at the ticket desk. If you don't prebook a slot, you can try joining the queue in Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, for places made available by people who don't turn up.


Website for Milan (Malpensa) airport: http://www.seaaeroportimilano.it/Eng/

www.malpensa.it airport info, including lodgings

The Malpensa Express TRAIN from the airport stops ONLY at Milan?s Cadorna (Stazione Nord) train station (near the Duomo).

www.ferrovienord.it/webmxp/ing/frame-servizio-ing.htm

To get to Milan's Centrale Station from Stazione Nord, you would need to take a subway or taxi.

On the other hand, the BUS from the airport goes directly to Centrale Station. Travel time varies from 45-90 minutes, depending on traffic.

If you have a reserved seat on a particular train, get to the train station early and consult someone at the tourist information office in the train station. Most TI offices have at least one person who speaks English. They can advise you the correct location on the track (binario) where you should stand to board your train, and your particular car if you have a reserved seat. If you board the correct car in the first place, you will easily find your seat if you have reserved one, and avoid dragging your luggage up and down the train aisles.

You must stamp your ticket in one of the little stamping machines that you must pass by before entering the binario (track) areas. An unstamped ticket is invalid, and is subject to large penalties

Grazie Elaine, I am your biggest fan !

Topping for Ira !

Thanks for keeping the thread going.

Topping at Ira's request.

Here is another one that seems to occur every week.
Q. I want to rent a villa in Tuscany. Where do I start?

A. Before you try to screen properties, set you criteria for location and price. Then, go to slowtrav.com and look at both agencies to use and reviews of specific properties. It is a great resource for novice renters.

so bob-t-n

You said you've planned lots of trips to Europe. Do you do that for hire or for your friends or what?

I hate to plan trips and don't really want to go on an organized tour and I do want to go to Italy.

You interested in planning my trip?

Send me an email at: rplittle@bellsouth.net

What are some good daytrips from Rome?

(see above for info on daytripping to Pompeii)
This info assumes that you could find info elsewhere on how to get to Florence as a daytrip, if you want to

An excellent book is Steinbicker's "Daytrips Italy" which includes details on transportation , and a map of each daytrip destination city or town.

www.ostia-antica.org.
If your time in Rome is short and you want to see more ruins, save hours of travel and visit Ostia Antica instead of Pompeii. Do take a picnic and eat among the ruins. The only source of food is outside the property.
Closed Mondays.

I got the following narrative from some source, might have been a posting here, don't recall unfortunately:
"?While not as well preserved as Pompeii, if Pompeii?s a 10 on the archaeology scale, Ostia?s an 8 or 9 ...and holds other advantages not held by Pompeii. Pompeii in its day was a summer place of illas cooled by the breezes off the Mediterranean. While it has much of interest it?s far less typical of Roman cities. To the contrary, Ostia was a working city, the port of Rome. With few if any villas, it has instead a wealth of the Roman equivalent of what you?d find in a modern day small city: apartment blocks, taverns, groceries, warehouses, churches, public toilets, civic buildings, theater. Pompeii perished in a relative instant nearly 2000 years ago. Ostia, on the other hand, continued to thrive for another 300 years or so until silting of the Tiber river mouth grew to the point that the city was too far from the water to be a port. This extended life provides more historical depth and added architectural diversity to the site compared to its better-known cousin to the south. It?s quiet, which Pompeii is not; it?s shaded, which Pompeii is not; it?s relatively untouristed, which Pompeii is certainly not. And it?s easy to get to, which Pompeii decidedly is not."

I believe the following instructions are still accurate for getting to Ostia, but check with your hotel in Rome


In Rome, take Metro Line ?B? towards ?Laurentina? and get off at the ?Piramide? stop. Exit metro train and you will see escalator/stairs and a sign ?Ferrovia Roma-Lido?. All of these trains go to Lido and stop at Ostia Antica. Check the displays for which train is next, and it's track number.

Daytrip to Orvieto:
Websites: http://www.eng.uci.edu/~alberto/orvieto.html includes sightseeing, city map
http://www.argoweb.it/orvieto/orvieto.uk.html sightseeing, places to stay, restaurants, shopping
www.umbriaonline.com
http://www.primitaly.it/umbria/orvieto/index.html in Italian

http://www.ku.edu/history/index/europe/ancient_rome/E/Gazetteer/Places/Europe/Italy/Umbria/Terni/Orvieto/Orvieto/home.html

http://www.emmeti.it/Welcome/Umbria/Orvieto/index.uk.html

the Cathedral: http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Orvieto_Cathedral.html

For train schedules http://www.fs-on-line.com/

Trains depart from Rome?s Termini station approx every two hours, during the day, for the 90-minute ride. Return service operates until mid-evening. From the train station in Orvieto, a funicular train will take you into town. From the train station, you can buy a ticket that will include the funicular ride, plus the bus ride from the top of the funicular to the center of town.

Pisa as daytrip
Train ride is about 3.5 hours, so leaving Rome in the morning and returning from Pisa in the late afternoon or early evening would leave about 5 hours to see Pisa
From the New York Times, Sept 01:
Visitors to the Leaning Tower will be admitted for 30-minute tours in guided groups of 30. The admission price will include access to the top level (293 steps) and the second-story outside loggia.
To prebook access, go to www.opapisa.it/boxoffice

For more info on the Duomo: www.duomo.pisa.it , click on "torre" and you will have the option for an English version.

An awesome website, photos of ancient ruins in many locations, including Pompeii,
Herculaneum, and Ostia Antica:
http://wings.buffalo.edu/AandL/Maecenas/italy_except_rome_and_sicily

topping

Lets try this

Helpful informaton italy

Thanks to all for keeping the thread going.

ira, welcome home,and thanks for starting this thread

I just returned to Canada after spending 2 weeks in Stresa/Milan, Venice and Florence.

I did lots and lots of research on Italy, including tips of what-to-do and what-not-to-do, best restaurants etc. etc. before leaving. The following are my observations/comments. Remember that they are reflecting my own opinions only:

- tips I read about Venice: walk in single line (streets are narrow) and don't stop/block the bridges

Reality: that's what I told my travel companions, but in reality many people walk to pairs, threes etc., even in narrow streets. They could be Italians, Germans, Americans or anybody. As for the bridges, they are (especially around San Marco) often blocked by tourists taking pictures.

- tips: all the advices about ordering what you want regardless of appertizer, first course (primo), seocnd course (secondo) etc.

Reality: true; most restaurants (osterias etc.) don't care what you order. The only thing is you may want to tell the waiter/waitress that you want certain things (soup, salad etc.) first, or whether you want them all at once.

- tips: don't order capuccino after 11 a.m.
Reality: again people don't care; many coffee places we went, the staff actually asked if we want capuccino even in the afternoon, evening.

- tips: I didn't see much of this broadcast: if you order coffee and/or sandwich in the coffee bars and stand up eating/drinking, the price is cheaper, versus sitting down, by as much as 50%

- tips: don't always trust recommendations. I read in a few places about "the best gelato shop in Florence" in Santa Croce (Vivolte - forgot exact name) and when we tried it, it turned out to be the worst gelato we ever tasted in Italy

That's all for now.

John,

Thanks for your contribution.

More of the travel observations from 2 weeks in Stresa/Milan, Venice and Florence:

Tips: in Venice, make sure you have some loose change like Euro 10 and 20 cents. There are many public WC/toilets but you need about 50cents Euro to enter.

Tips: Chichetti in Venice
I was so looking forward to tryying out the chichetti (small snacks like tapas) in Venice. Da Pinto was highly recommended in this website, but maybe the thread was a bit too out-dated. They still serve "chichetti", but as sampler plates. So in their menu, they would have meat samplers, seafood samplers, cheese samplers etc. and you'll have to order the whole plate instead of individual chichetti. It was good though.

I also tried the Vini al Bottegon Cantinone, San Trovaso bnear the Ponte Accademia. They sell chichetti by the piece, but the chichettis are all fairly similar: all have what appears to be a spread on small pieces of toast, only the topping differs (roasted pepper, anchovy, roast pork etc. etc.). I recommend trying it if you have never had chichetti before.

Tips: regional cuisine
I am not a picky eater but like to try different food. One thing I do find, whether in Stresa, Milan, Venice and Florence is that that food do not differ by much. I tried most the "recommended trattorias" there. I was disappointed not being able to find eateries that serve regional cuisine. By that, I mean for Venice, food such as Torresani allo spiedo ( pigeons roasted on the spit with salt pork basted with oil containing mashed bay leaf, rosemary, juniper berries), Granseola alla veneziana (the meat of boiled spider crab pounded in a mortar and served in the hollowed shell with olive oil, pepper, lemon, parsley), Pasticcio di polenta (layers of fried polenta and stew of wood pigeon with mushrooms baked in pie crust). I know that many dishes are seasonal, but recommend that if you really want to try the local specialty dishes, do more research on restaurants that serve such food up-front.

Tips: Florentine steak
Don't know if we were "misled", but the much-celebrated and recommended Florentine Steak, which I insisted one of my travel companion tried, turned out to be just plain T-Bone Steak!!!!
(although it was pretty good steak).

Hi John,

You certainly have done your gourmet research. Sorry it didn't work out as well as you might have hoped.

Anyone else with further suggestions?

topping

ttt

-
One issue that often appears about cities or specific sites in Italy is the "IS _____ WORTH IT" query. Certain places seem to definitely fall into the "must see" category while others set off lively debates.

For example, The Leaning Tower of Pisa --- worth a visit ??? In my opinion, it doesn't warrant a high priority, especially if it's a first trip to Italy. I'd already made two trips to Italy before I decided Pisa needed to make my to do list.

But like I said, others express a different point of view . . . . . . >Is Pisa Worth It?<
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34427734

Hello everyone. First post here. This thread is a very interesting read and this board seems to attract some lively individuals. What caught my eye was the post by author, Sue_xx_yy responding to NYCFoodSnob. I found FoodSnob's condescension harmlessly playful, actually entertaining, and I have to concur that precise and accurate information is most helpful to all engaged in travel research. Otherwise, you waste readers time and do a disservice to those who count on this varied information as factual.

I believe international travel forums are a colloquial environment where grammar correction is inappropriate. What surprised me most was Sue_xx_yy's attack on FoodSnob's grammar because it couldn't be more incorrect. FoodSnob's use of the verb "may," present tense invitation, is the CORRECT usage in "You may wish to check out Venicescapes." Also, "final drop-off destination" is accurate because in preceding posts someone mentioned sharing a water taxi to reduce individual cost. If more than one party shares a water taxi, the possibility exists that there will be more than one stop. There's no redundancy here.

To get this back on track, and to carry on in the same vein as Tess's comment about "Is it worth it...?.

Hilltowns are another source of questions--is this one charming, should I visit this one or skip it for that one, etc. Our trip to Umbria with my husband and his brother and wife taught me that four people can be in the same hilltown and have four different opinions on it. Lesson learned: in regard to hilltowns, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. What turns me on might leave you cold. Seek recommendations about good choices, but go with an open mind. Your expectations may be exceeded or disappointed, and that will have nothing to do with all the trip research you've done beforehand.

This is excellent, wonderful information! Thank you all for taking time out of your busy lives to share your knowledge. I don't mean to sound naive, (although I am new to this) but what does "Topping" mean?

Hi breathe,

When someone replies to a post, the thread goes to the top of the list.

"topping" or just "ttt" brings a post to the top of the list so that it is not lost.

Thanks ira. I get it. Can you tell me your feelings regarding Siena vs Arezzo?

*
For a Canadian perspective on traveling in Italy, go to ?CanuckAbroad? ---
http://www.canuckabroad.com/backpack/italy.shtml

Q. -- What does the Spanish Steps in Rome look like?
A. -- http://home.nycap.rr.com/pkm/italian/spanishsteps.jpg

VENICE:
http://www.veniceonline.it/Maps/Maps.asp (map of city)
http://turismo.regione.veneto.it/webcam/webcam2.html (webcam)

Thanx for your contribution, JBX.

To the top for Italy travelers

If you can't find a way to get the sink faucet to turn on in a restroom, check the floor below the sink. You may find a foot-operated lever (either one or two, hot/cold) to operate.

Just returned home last night from a trip to Torino and Cinque Terre. Please people-DO NOT WALK ALL OVER ITALY WITH YOUR RICK STEVES BOOK PRESSED AGAINST YOUR CHESTS!!!!!!As we were walking through Vernazzo down in Cinque Terre,I counted 14 people out of 20 within the first few minutes carrying his book.Xerox pages ahead of time or try and read before you go.....and to the couple who HAD to wear shorts and tank tops with Teva sandals on the flight to Milan out of Atlanta-the reason you were being pointed at on the bus and train from Malpensa was that it is fall,its cold and the outfits looked ridiculous! Thank you for letting me vent...now back to my horrible Folgers coffee!

I forgot to add that one of the first things that you should do when you arrive in Italy is go to a Tobacco shop and purchase two phone cards-one for INTER Italy and one for overseas to the USA or other parts of Europe. They were 5 Euros apiece and were a steal.The overseas card was for 3 hours/180 minutes!!!Great for calling home and also for using to check tourist prices for hotels,tours,etc. within Italy.

Dear dutyfree,

Thank you for your helpful postings.

To add to this helpful post.


Q. SHOULD WE DRIVE IN ITALY?
A. Of course you should if your driving skill & confidence would allow you to drive a rental car in Vermont, Colorado or California. But, be advised of these tips:
* Avoid driving in the major cities except for picking up or dropping cars
* Have good maps?study them in advance?and have a good navigator
* We have rented a car for 20 of our 22 trips to Europe. Our only mishap was a minor fender bender in a leased car, and that was in France.

Q. WHAT CAR SHOULD I GET AND WHERE DO I GET IT?
A. It is best to rent your car before you leave for Europe. The best source we have found is AUTOEUROPE [800-223-5555] who is a broker for several car vendors. They will quote you prices to include the variables that are often omitted by others, such as unlimited mileage, full mandatory insurance coverage, and VAT taxes. The best model will depend on your needs, but for best value we suggest you select a compact car with manual transmission. Automatics are available but will cost you about 30% more and may limit your model options & pick up locations.

Q. ARE ITALIAN DRIVERS AS CRAZY AS I HAVE HEARD?
A. Yes & no! They are certainly aggressive, but they are also more skilled than many USA drivers?both are a function of necessity. Italy is one of the most crowded countries in the world and the drivers have evolved these characteristics
* They are notorious tailgaters. If that bothers you, pull over and let them past.
* On the AUTOSTRADE they will drive fast, but will stay in the right lane except when passing and will use their blinkers when passing?you should too !
* They will often pass on 2-lane roads with traffic coming. Frankly, they expect you, and the oncoming car, to adjust to the shoulder and make 3 lanes of traffic.

OTHER ROAD TIPS FOR YOUR DRIVING SANITY:
1. Learn the meaning of the sign ? SENSO UNICO? and take heed [ONE WAY ].

2. Be sure to get your ticket when you enter the AUTOSTADA system & be prepared to pay the toll when you exit it [ rule of thumb?300 km=15 Euro]. You can use your credit card in the VIA lane at the toll both, or buy a debit VIACARD in advance.

3. Do not attempt to follow road numbers?that will frustrate you. But, do pay attention to the directional signs that point to your destination[ TO MONTALCINO]. And, be aware if that road leads eventually to a larger city [ ROMA?SIENA ETC.]

4. Unless you have a diesel car, you will want to fill the tank with benzina from the green pump. Most stations will pump gas for you and will take credit cards.

ttt for newbies

topping for some recent questions

Great thread and Italy is now 6 weeks away. I'll be cutting and pasting from here. Thanks all!

Hey everyone keep this thread going. I am deep into it as I plan a trip for June.
We are a family of 4 (Mon, Dad, girl 14 and boy 22).

So far itinerary looks like this
Fly into MXP
2 nights Bellagio: Hotel Florence?
2nights Florence: Hotel Globus
7nights house near Todi
1 nights Ferarra: Locanda Borgonuovo
3 nights Venice: Locanda Orseolo
2 nights Lake Orta: Hotel orta?

Any feedback greatly appreciated.
And, yes we are renting a car.
Thanks everyone in advance...
jgita

Dear JG,

You will get a much better response if you post your questions on your own thread.

People looking for helpful information will not usually be informed enough to help you.

ROME TO POMPEII/HERCULANEUM DAYTRIP DIRECTIONS:
A Rome to Pompeii daytrip takes ~3hrs using the fast trains (ES-EuroStar or IC-InterCity) *to Naples*.
  NOTE: A local commuter train (Circumvesuviana or CV) takes you *from
Naples* to Pompeii, Herculaneum or Sorrento, it's website & timetable directions is listed below. It is a completely seperate company, so railpasses are not valid on it nor can you buy tickets in Rome for it.   You can find the timetables & fares for the Rome-Naples leg at www.trenitalia.com It has an English link and is fairly easy to use when it's working. When you have brought-up your timetable and choose your train, you can get the Fare by clicking-on the "Red-square/White-triangle" icon.
  Buying your Rome-Naples tickets is easy. You can do it the old-fashioned way by waiting in a long line at Termini (Rome's main train station), tickets sellers speak English usually. Or you can buy them thru a Travel Agency in Rome or in Termini for a small fee. Also thru the American Express Office near the Spanish Steps.   But the easiest way is from the 'Ticket Vending Machines' located thru-out Termini. They accept CC or cash and have an English option and are *very easy* to use, they walk you right thru the process.   Like anywhere else on public transport weekend travel can be a busy time, if possible plan this daytrip on Mon-Thur.     You can go to either the Naples Centrale Train Station or the Piazza Garibaldi Train Station (which is just an underground metro stop rather than a full-fledged train station) and just follow the signs to the Circumvesuviana (CV) train. The Garibaldi & Centrale Train Station are really the same station, with Garibaldi located 2 levels underground and in front of the Centrale station.
  If you arrive at CENTRALE: In front of Track 13 near the front doors is a wide staircase/escalator which goes down one level. At the bottom of the stairs bear left, you'll enter a hallway with the CV ticket windows on the left (Metro ticket windows on the right).   If you arrive at GARIBALDI: You will go up 1 level and just before you get to the the bottom of that staircase/escalator mentioned above you'll turn right instead.
  After you purchase your CV tickets continue down that (short) hallway and then on the left is a wide hallway with moving walkways to the CV ticket turnstiles.
  There on the wall in front of you are 2 boards that will post the *next* 2 arriving trains, you'll want the *Sorrento* train (don't worry if it's not listed yet). There are 4 tracks, you'll *probably* want Track (Binario) 3 (I've stayed in Naples 3x and it always left from BIN 3!).
  Half-way down *each* platform is another Departure Board and it will list the next arriving train's destination & time. The train's destination for you will be "Sorrento", this train runs ~every half-hour.
  The train stops at Ercolano (Herculaneum) in 17min and Pompeii in 36min and Sorrento in 66min. The stop you want is "Pompeii Scavi-Villa dei Misteri" or "Ercolano" for Herculaneum. Be aware that there are a few "Direttissimo" (fast CV trains) which skip alot of the smaller stops and will hit Ercolano, Pompeii and Sorrento in less time.  Exit the Pompeii Scavi Station turn right and walk 50m (I would buy water & snacks from the stalls along there if need be, there's also a restaurant) to the entrance which is set back alittle on the left.
  [This is based on info that I have read from other posters, I've never used these guides. There are licensed guides with ID's outside the entrance that charge 35-40euro hour per tour, *not* per person, same price as for 1 person or for a small group of 5 max.]   The entrance is a small outdoor complex of bldgs containing the ticket windows, w.c., ATM, gift & *guidebook* shop and an info booth. You might want to check at the info booth and see if they have any special sites open, there will be limited entry requiring a free ticket for a certain time (in '02 there were 3 limited access sites opened).   In the middle of this outdoor complex is an octagon bldg in the center that rents the audioguide tours. A CC or any type of photo ID is required for security.   It was my 4th visit to Pompeii and I'm a bit of a history buff, I thought the audioguide was very good. But you might want to have a guidebook with decent map though. I've read a few posts where people couldn't find some of the audioguide sites and I believe I might have had to check my other map also for 1 or 2 sites. Also at the ticket turnstiles (not the ticket sales window) there is a secured "Luggage Storage" room on the right. After you enter the site you come across the Forum, look to the left at the far end, that is the Temple of Jupiter and behind that temple a little ways back is a modern building with a restaurant, snack bar, giftshop, and w.c. If you wish [I highly recommend it] to visit the Villa dei Misteri in the NW corner of Pompeii, do so at the end of your visit (you *cannot* re-enter the site afterwards). You must exit here and walk back (600m) to the same CV station (at this exit there is also a restaurant with a pay w.c.).   
  HERCULANEUM: To visit Herculaneum (Ercolano CV station is halfway between Naples and Pompeii on the *same* CV train line-The stop will say "Ercolano" *only* (NOT 'Ercolano Miglio d'oro') or if they have changed the signs recently it will read 'Ercolano-Scavi'), exit the station (only one-way out) into the *small* parking lot and the *only* street there (45deg to your right), takes you *right* to the Herculaneum entrance after a 6 min downhill walk towards the Bay of Naples. Impossible to get lost or miss [audioguides available and sometimes tourguides]. Also right outside the CV station are taxi minivans that will take you to atop Mt. Vesuvius (not sure of the cost, but they'll be "pitching" to you as you walk by also "Let's Go Italy" mentions that there is a bus nearby the station to Mt. Vesuvius.
ALSO WHILE AWAITING your train back to Rome from the Naples Centrale Station, in front of ~track 18 there is a glassed-in sitting room (quiet & secure) for ticketed passengers *only*.  TO VISIT THE NAPLES MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE www.cib.na.cnr.it/mann/museum/mann.html closed Tuesdays <<<Across from the CV ticket windows (mentioned above in the Naples train station) buy a metro day pass or 2 tickets, to the left of the booth is the turnstile and directly in front of that is Track 4, go down to track 4 hop on the train and get off at the 1st stop (Piazza Cavour). When you exit the metro turn right on the *busy* street in front and walk (uphill) ~150m, you'll see a large 3 story building with pinkish bricks on the same side of the street, thats the museum.   Also outside this metro stop (P. Cavour) is the bus stop for the 110 bus to Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX To find the Circumvesuviana Timetable go to www.circumvesuviana.com Click-on "Orari" (There is an English version link but it doesn't work properly at this time but give it a try anyway.   Now click-on "Orario Ferrovia (Interattivo)". Under "Citta di Partenza" pull-down "NAPOLI Collegamento FS". Under "Citta di Arrivo" pull-down "Pompeii Scavi Villa Dei Mi" or "Ercolano Scavi" for Herculaneum.   Set the time (Dalle) and click-on "Prosegui" (Find, Procede, Search). But remember these trains run basically every 30min, so you either make it or wait a half-hour.

ROME CATACOMBS VIA ARCHEOBUS TOURS:
[The 1st half of this post is from Mar02 and the 2nd half from Mar02]
This is the easiest way to get to the Catacombs and the other Via Appia sites, of course it can be done on public transport (bus or metro/bus) I've done it before. But this is hassle-free, you won't get lost plus hourly transport between the sites. Even if you didn't get off the bus, the tour of this route is worth it. It costs 7.75euro in a 16 passenger bus with a guide and it's a "hop on-hop off" route. On Sundays the Via Appia is closed to auto traffic, great for walking or renting a bike (ask the guide). I was going to write a trip report about the Archeobus Tours but in my search I found this *very* informative trip report website. www.mmdtkw.org/VArcheobus.html
I'd just like to add "Summer hrs 9am-7pm Winter 10am-4pm", cost 7.75euro, take a lunch and picnic at the Aquaduct Park. And alittle more detail on the location *at* Piazza Venezia. Standing in front of the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument facing (North) the Piazza Venezia. Look to the leftside of the Piazza Venezia which is across the street and you will see the Piazza S. Marco (small tree and grass park-don't confuse it with that small island piazza on the *extreme* leftside of this Monument which is *surrounded* by busy traffic with many buses parked alongside it).
  Walk across this busy street to the Piazza S. Marco and go to the left (SW) corner and you'll see a Pinecone water fountain. That is where the Archeobuses leave from and if you look to your left (west) down Via S. Marco you'll see a green kiosk/ticket booth on the sidewalk ~30M away which sells the Archeobus tickets.
  Any of the Rome Tourist Info booths and probably your hotel will have Archeobus pamphlets. You might want to reserve by phone esp in peak season. (06) 46952343 or 46952252 or 46954695 (9am-8pm). www.parcoappiaantica.org/en/homeng.asp (this link goes down all the time, it's ok but nothing major if it's off-line) P.S. I did an Archeobus tour again earlier this year (Mar03), so I have a few things to add.
You might not want to do this tour on a Monday because many of the sites are closed (Villa/Circus of Maxentius [Circo Massenzio] & Tomb of Romulus, Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, Villa dei Quintili, Porta San Sebastiano Museum also the Baths of Caracalla close early on Monday). You must also plan around the opening times (8:30-noon & 2:30-5:00) and closed days of the 3 Catacombs (San Sebastiano M-Sa closed in Nov, San Callisto Th-Tu closed in Feb, San Domitilla W-M closed in Jan). The easiest 2 to visit are the San Callisto & San Sebastiano Catacombs. The bus drops you at the entrance to a park and San Callisto is within 200m. Also you cross a tree lined road/footpath just before you get to this catacomb, after your tour you follow that to San Sebastiano (10min walk). San Domitilla is ~750m from that bus stop, you would cut thru the park and walk along a rather scary (no sidewalks or shoulder if I remember correctly from '96) section of road for ~300m. To give you a timeline I took the 10am Archeobus to San Callisto. I waited ~10min for the English tour to start, after that I walked over to San Sebastiano (10min) and waited (~15min) for the English tour. I was finished by noon.
The Archeobus picks-up around this area (San Sebastiano to Mausoleum Cecilia Metella 550m) at ~30min past the hour. There is only 1 restaurant in this area, it looked nice (outdoor seating beneath trees) but was rather expensive although one poster said the food was very good. So pack a lunch or bring some snacks and water. Also the "Blue Guide Rome" covers these sites fairly well with a map.

Wow, great information here, thanks to all. Even the bickering ones!!!!

ANCIENT GAME BOARDS ETCHED IN THE ROMAN FORUM:
I love the Roman Forum and have spent many hours just wandering around looking for little things that remain or left there mark from the past. These game boards are one of them, they were played by the poor average Roman citizen just idling away the one thing he was rich in...free time.
  Below is a trip report on the location of the games I've found. Regards, Walter
  
There are game boards (tabulae lusoriae) etched into the marble steps and pavements in and around the Roman Forum. "...boards for games of skill and dexterity, used by the boys, loungers, and idlers who, as ancient sources record, crowded into the Forum every hours of the day and night." ["The Roman Forum" Soprintendenza Archeologica di Roma]   I don't think anyone really knows exactly how the were played. A guess? Because they were in public places vs homes perhaps some could be played at the "spur of the moment". Meaning the board is already there and the game pieces would have had to have been easy to access, such as coins, dice or small stones. Or they could have been played by regulars who would have say the gamepieces (metal or marked bone poker-like chips, dice, etc) and possibly entice passers-by in a little game of chance? Rather like the "3-Card Monte" dealers on streetcorners in major cities (1 theory and circle game photos
http://home.austarnet.com.au/maat/contorniates.html ). The majority are what I'll call "Hole Games", these are holes usually bored into steps http://www2.siba.fi/~kkoskim//rooma/pages/350_002B.HTM. They are deep enough to catch something that could be pitched (or possibly rolled...small ball?) like a small stone, a small coin, dice, etc.   They are mostly found where there would be a backstop such as the next step or a wall. They are sometimes in a neat order [::::] or scattered
[.??:.?].
  They went to alot of trouble to bore these deep holes into the marble steps whereas the other gameboards are just etched into the marble. That and the backstops leads me to believe that something was tossed in this type of game. Next were "Circle Games", usually a circle cut-up like a pizza (in eighths) and usually on a pavement or a wide step. Although there is a large version in a rectangle in the Forum of Nerva and 2 half circles on the steps of the Basilica Julia with a backstop.   And finally "Rectangular Games" (rare I've only found a few) the rectangle is usually divided either vertically or horizontally by lines and between the lines are symbols. The best one is on the pavement in front of the altar steps in the Forum of Augustus (across the street from the Roman Forum), it is groups of laid-down 8's like the infinity symbol and groups of X's. I'll start at the Via dei Fori Imperiali entrance to the Roman Forum. Before you enter turn right and walk down the sidewalk along the main street over to between the 2nd & 3rd lampost. Walk over to the sidewalk railing and look down on a large section of large marble pavement slabs.   The distant 2 slabs have a rectangular game cut-up into eighths on one and a circle game on the other with another faded circle game just below that one on the same slab.   Now look to your left and the 2nd slab from the far end also has a circle game on it.   Look over your right shoulder 45deg, far across the street is the Forum of Augustus. Viewed from the sidewalk over there looking straight down in front the steps to the altar towards the left end is a rectangular game with symbols and 2 circle games (faded) on the small remaining sections of pavement, 1 just above it and the other to the right of that one.   Walk back over and enter the Forum down the ramp. Turn right and walk towards the "Arch of Septimius Severus" down the Via Sacra, all along your right are the remains of the "Porticus of Giaus and Lucius" this was a columned walkway (with steps). Behind that was the "Tabernae Novae" merchant stalls, mostly money changers (bankers) and behind that was the "Basilica Aemilia" (these were all connected and formed 1 large building).   Now just past the halfway point of the Portius after an open entranceway into the Basilica you will see a marble base of what looks like a headless man with outstretched arms. In front of that is a step (fragment) with the half remains of a "circle game".   Keep walking and you will come to a marble ring with a plaque. That is the "Shrine of Venus Cloacina", look over past it to the left and you will see a "hole game" on the steps. Also to the left of the Shrine closer to you a step fragment with another "hole game".   Now turn around and face the fenced-off Forum Square. You will see pedestal bases, walk over to the right of the 2nd one and peer over that large stone block. The stone block behind it has a "hole game" on it.   Now walk to the Arch of Septimius Severus, the archway on the left has 3 games in it. When in the middle archway look at the left side of the doorway that goes into the left arch there is a "hole game" there. Walkout of the middle arch and look into that same left archway, there is a "hole game" on the rightside of the doorway and a faded circle game on the pavement.   Now look over to the "Temple of Saturn", the road on the right is called the "Clivus Capitolinus" and goes uphill to the Capitoline Hill. Oddly there are 2 "circle games" on the pavement stones at the top section of this road. The 1st is faded and just past the "Portico of the Consentes" and the 2nd clearer and just before the end where the modern steps are.   A guess?: This wasn't a crowded roadway because it lead mainly to the "Temple of Jupiter" on the hill and was mainly used for Triumphs (military victory parades). And I believe there was a more direct access via a staircase behind the Arch of S. Severius that led to the Tabularium and the middle of this hill (Arx) which was between the 2 major temples. Also in the winter this section of road was probably exposed to the Sun for most of the day, if you're going to hang around all day might as well be in the warm Sun.   On the leftside of the "Temple of Saturn" is the marble protruding base of the Temple (like a step) and directly beneath the left/rear column on that side is a "hole game". Walk past the Temple of Saturn over to the other Via Sacra section which runs down the otherside of the Forum Square. The Forum Square will be on your left and the Basilica Julia on the right. http://www2.siba.fi/~kkoskim//rooma/pages/FBIULIA.HTM They have found ~80 game boards on the steps and on the floor of the Basilica Julia. The basilica is fenced-off so only the games on the steps are viewable.   In the basilica they held civil tribunals (court cases), the interior could be curtained-off into multiple court rooms or opened-up for larger high-profile cases.
  I suppose if there were no chariot races or gladiator combats going on this would be the place to go for entertainment esp during a high-profile court case. I have read that lawyers sometimes would hire these "loungers and idlers" to cheer their defendant and jeer the opposition. Cicero (not in this basilica) once hired orphans off the street to play the dependent children of his client.    On the steps are where most of the games in the Forum can be found. You will come across the 1st and most famous in ~10m http://www2.siba.fi/~kkoskim//rooma/pages/165_021B.HTM No one seems to know what the letters mean but that odd "A" I have seen in a word on a ancient pot in the Forum Museum. Also a few inches above the "R" there is a piece of metal fused into the step. This basilica has burned down a few times, most notably in the 410AD Visigoth sacking and burning of Rome.
  Walk slowly along the steps and you will see alot of "holes games". Also in the Forum behind you between the 2nd & 3rd large brick column bases, ~2m from the fence you will find a "circle game" on the actual Forum pavement.
  The last section of steps at the end of the basilica have some interesting games. On the top step (hard to see) between the 3rd & 4th column stump from the end is this game
www.vroma.org/images/forum_project_images/RF.Bas.Julia.gameboard.jpg And on the steps in the area of the 2nd column stump are two half circle games (faded) on the 3rd step.
  And if you walk down the short side of the basilica on the Vicus Tuscus there are some hole games on the 2nd entrance stairs also farther down is a single step in the grass with a "hole game".   In this area on the steps of the basilica you will notice what looks like molds cut deep into the steps. In the Middle Ages the basilica was used as a lime kiln. My guess is that these were molds for hammers or wedges to split the marble. Also there is a deep bowl-like mold on the 2nd side staircase, could this have been used for crushing/pounding the finished lime from the burnt marble? Fill the bowl with molten metal and stick a metal rod into in and you would have a large pestle "----l)"? I hope to find out someday, I'm very curious and someone went to alot of trouble to cut these into the marble steps. Now walk over to the nearby corner of the Forum Square, there is what looks like a small brick building. That is the remains of the "Rostra ad Divi Julii (Divine Julius)".   There is a fragment (next to the waste bin of a "hole game". Turn left on that short street that connects the 2 Via Sacra's. Looking into the Forum Sq. you will see a "hole' and "circle game" on fragments. Now on the otherside of this street there is a large rectanglar block of stone directly in front of the "Temple of Divine Julius" right alongside this street. That was the base of the equestrian statue of Julius Caesar. There is a "hole game" on top of it and some type of graffiti. On the ground on the otherside of it is a fragment with a "hole game".   Now walk over to the Temple of Divine Julius, on the steps to the right of the entrance over to the corner are 2 "hole games". And on the rightside of the building there is another "hole game" and a small graffiti on those steps.
  Now walk over to the "Temple of Antoninus and Faustina". The steps have been reconstructed in brick with the few remaining marble steps in place. On the 3rd step on the extreme left is a "hole game".   The next games are at the other end of the Forum area. They are on the marble steps that lead into the "Temple of Roma and Venus". They go from the "Arch of Titus" over to the modern building that houses the Forum Museum. On them are "hole games" at each end and a "rectangular game" on the 6th step along the metal railing on the arch side.

PISA DAYTRIP DIRECTIONS:
These are directions from the Pisa Centrale Station from Mar'03. 
The Centrale Station is roughly 1.8km south of the Campo dei Miracoli (Piazza del Duomo) where the "Leaning Tower" is located. The train station and Piazza are connected by a bus route but the walk is only ~25min.
  The Leaning Tower has turned one side of the street flanking the Piazza into a long row of tacky souvenir stalls. But just turn your back on them and you have a lovely piazza with a beautiful cathedral, baptistery and a campanile that just happens to lean.   To climb the Tower you need a reservation, you can try to book when you arrive for a later time but only 30 people are allowed in each group which was every hour. Or you can prebook online at www.opapisa.it/boxoffice/
  There are 5 sites at the Piazza that require admission, a combo ticket for all 5 is 15e and they have other lesser combo tickets available (Duomo (cathedral), Baptistery, Camposanto, "Museo dell' Opera del Duomo", "Museo delle Sinopie").
PISA CENTRALE STATION:
  Luggage storage (Deposito Bagagli) is manned (0600-2200) and just recently opened (~Jan03), the self-storage lockers are still closed. On arrival don't enter the station but turn right and walk down Track 1, it's in a open hallway past the closed lockers.
  When you enter the station there is a Tabacchi on the right and a newstand on the left that both sell bus tickets (€0.80, buy 2.   Walk out of the station and look 45deg to the right and walk over to that lamp post ~40m away. You will see the bus sign for the "A" bus line (an A within a pink circle), which will also list your stop "Piazza Miracoli Museo Opera" (in yellow).
  Your bus will have an "A" on the back and over the front entrance and in the front will say "NAVETTA "A" Torre Park Pietrasatina".   The driver takes his break there so just board and validate your ticket. Your stop could sneak past you if you're not watching or standing so try and sit on the right side of the bus. Before you get to it you will see a large "red cross sign" and when you get to that you will see the fortress-type wall (~40m away) with the Duomo dome above it. (The return stop is across the street and the bus will be say "NAVETTA "A" Ospedale Stazione FS").
  After you enter the Piazza on the right (~125m) you will come across the "Museo delle Sinopie" you can buy the regular tickets (Duomo & Museums) there or at the other end of the Piazza at the "Museo dell' Opera del Duomo" (and possibly at the Camposanto?).
  To pick-up your reserved Tower tickets or to make a reservation, walk to the end of the Piazza and turn left. Walking between the Duomo and the Tower you will see a building in front of you. Walk over to it and turn right in 30m you will past the door to a gift shop, next is the ticket office and next is a baggage storage room with free lockers for those climbing the Tower. The lockers are small but will hold a daypack, no bags are allowed on the Tower climb. Outside this door is the meeting point for those climbing the Tower.   When walking over to the Tower position yourself within the other 29 people, meaning if you're young or in good physical shape get in the front section of the group, if you older, overweight, been smoking for years you might want to take-up the rear. You will not be rushed and the rear escort is in no hurry to get to the top *again* (that is 1st hand info.   When you get to the bell landing (1 level from the top) you will walk halfway around the Tower on the outside and then climb to the top. There is a steel rail around the edge but there are 4 narrow steps that go longways around the Tower, so it puts you alittle higher up compared to the rail. I made it about 2 meters and got a major attack of vertigo (just like in the Hitchcock movie ) and couldn't make it around. But the other 29 people had no problem and in time my fingernail marks where I crawled back to the doorway will fade.

Julius Caesar 'Ides of March' Assassination Walking Tour:
This is too long to post (11 printed pages) here. I tried posting it on Usenet and using a google achives URL but it wouldn't post the photo links properly (opened & not complete).
I'm not a good writer but it starts in the Roman Forum the night before, goes to the assassination site and back to the Forum for the funeral. It shows the sites in detail with photo links, the possible events that transpired and the people involved. Of course you can always find different version of certain events , I just choose the most probable.
If you're interested e-mail me and I'll sent you a copy.
Just put ROME JULIUS CAESAR in the subject line so it doesn't get spam-canned .
Regards, Walter

Thax for some very helpful information, ParadiseLost

It is now possible to purchase tickets on line from Trenitalia.

Go to www.trenitalia.com andclick on the Italian flag.

Click on "registrati ora"

Fill in the blanks.

In an hour or so, you will receive confirmation of your user ID and a password.

When you make your booking, click on "ticketless".

You will get a confirmation number. Bring that number and the same credit card to which you billed the tickets with you to the train station to get your tickets.

You can purchase tickets from FCO (Fiumicino Aeroporto) to Roma online.

PS,

Give it a day or two for your user ID and password to be entered in the system.

ttt

For anyone seeking Rail fares in Italy - here's a quick reference list of the most commonly requested:

EUROSTAR fares (approx) between the main cities:-

Fares given are 2nd class (1st class in brackets)

ROME-NAPLES
€ 22.50 (33.00)

ROME-FLORENCE
€ 29.50 (42.50)

ROME-VENICE
€ 45.00 (67.50)

ROME-MILAN
€ 46.50 (67.50)

FLORENCE-VENICE
€ 27.00 (39.50)

FLORENCE-MILAN
€ 29.00 (42.00)

MILAN-VENICE
€ 22.50 (29.00)
(Most trains on this route are INTERCITY not Eurostar, with similar fares)

Notes:
- Eurostar fares INCLUDE seat reservation.
- Return/round trip fares are double.
- Don't forget to VALIDATE non-Eurostar tickets before boarding.

------------------------

INTER-REGIONAL fares (approx) between other cities:-
(Return/roundtrip fares are double)

FLORENCE-PISA
€ 5.00

FLORENCE-LUCCA
€ 4.50

FLORENCE-CINQUE TERRE
€ 8.00 OR
€ 18.50 using Eurostar train

LIVORNO-FLORENCE
€ 6.00

CIVITAVECCHIA-ROME
€ 4.00

All fares are rounded.

Ref:
www.trenitalia.it
- for all Italian rail fares & timetables.

Steve

Author: Steve_James
Date: 01/19/2004, 09:02 am
Message: For anyone seeking Rail fares in Italy - here's a quick reference list of the most commonly requested:

EUROSTAR fares (approx) between the main cities:-

Fares given are 2nd class (1st class in brackets)

ROME-NAPLES
€ 22.50 (33.00)

ROME-FLORENCE
€ 29.50 (42.50)

ROME-VENICE
€ 45.00 (67.50)

ROME-MILAN
€ 46.50 (67.50)

FLORENCE-VENICE
€ 27.00 (39.50)

FLORENCE-MILAN
€ 29.00 (42.00)

MILAN-VENICE
€ 22.50 (29.00)
(Most trains on this route are INTERCITY not Eurostar, with similar fares)

Notes:
- Eurostar fares INCLUDE seat reservation.
- Return/round trip fares are double.
- Don't forget to VALIDATE non-Eurostar tickets before boarding.

------------------------

INTER-REGIONAL fares (approx) between other cities:-
(Return/roundtrip fares are double)

FLORENCE-PISA
€ 5.00

FLORENCE-LUCCA
€ 4.50

FLORENCE-CINQUE TERRE
€ 8.00 OR
€ 18.50 using Eurostar train

LIVORNO-FLORENCE
€ 6.00

CIVITAVECCHIA-ROME
€ 4.00

All fares are rounded.

Ref:
www.trenitalia.it
- for all Italian rail fares & timetables.

Steve

Molto grazie Steve--you have saved me the trouble.
Also, saw a great tip in a recent article worth passing on. The 18:45 mass at San Marco basilica allows you to see the famed mosaics in full light. The priests turn on the interior lights then, but you must stay for the mass.

Oops ! I should have said 18:45 SUNDAY EVENING.

Here are some driving tips for Italy:

DRIVING IN ITALY:

Q. SHOULD WE DRIVE IN ITALY?
A. Of course you should if your driving skill & confidence would allow you to drive a rental car in Vermont, Colorado or California. But, be advised of these tips:
* Avoid driving in the major cities except for picking up or dropping cars
* Have good maps?study them in advance?and have a good NAVIGATOR.
* We have rented a car for 20 of our 22 trips to Europe. Our only mishap was a minor fender bender in a leased car, and that was in France.

Q. WHAT CAR SHOULD I GET AND WHERE DO I GET IT?
A. It is best to rent your car before you leave for Europe. The best source we have found is AUTOEUROPE [800-223-5555] who is a broker for several car vendors. They will quote you prices to include the variables that are often omitted by others, such as unlimited mileage, full mandatory insurance coverage, and VAT taxes. The best model will depend on your needs, but for best value we suggest you select a compact car with manual transmission. Automatics are available but will cost you about 30% more and may limit your model options & pick up locations.

Q. ARE ITALIAN DRIVERS AS CRAZY AS I HAVE HEARD?
A. Yes & no! They are certainly aggressive, but they are also more skilled than many USA drivers?both are a function of necessity. Italy is one of the most crowded countries in the world and the drivers have evolved these characteristics
* They are notorious tailgaters. If that bothers you, pull over and let them past.
* On the AUTOSTRADE they will drive fast, but will stay in the right lane except when passing and will use their blinkers when passing?you should too !
* They will often pass on 2-lane roads with traffic coming. Frankly, they expect you, and the on-coming car, to adjust to the shoulder and make 3 lanes of traffic.

OTHER ROAD TIPS FOR YOUR DRIVING SANITY:
1. Learn the meaning of the sign ? SENSO UNICO? and take heed [ONE WAY ].
2. Be sure to get your ticket when you enter the AUTOSTADA system & be prepared to pay the toll when you exit it [ rule of thumb?300 km=15 Euro]. You can use your credit card in the VIA lane at the toll both, or buy a debit VIACARD in advance.
3. Do not attempt to follow road numbers?that will frustrate you. But, do pay attention to the directional signs that point to your destination [ TO MONTALCINO]. And, be aware if that road leads eventually to a larger city [ ROMA?SIENA ETC.]
4. Unless you have a diesel car, you will want to fill the tank with benzina from the green pump. Most stations will pump gas for you and will take credit cards.

Thanks for the helpful tips, Steve and Bob

How do I get from Naples to Positano or Praiano?

a. Circumvesuviana to Sorrento and SITA bus.

b. by Steve James
Message: The easiest route for Praiano with luggage is:

- train to SALERNO, then
- bus/boat to AMALFI, then
- bus/taxi to PRAIANO

1. NAPLES-SALERNO
From Naples it's a 35-40 min train ride to SALERNO. Trains are frequent.

[N.B. If you're coming from Rome it's best to get a direct ROME-SALERNO Eurostar or Intercity train. Journey time approx 2.5 hours]

2. SALERNO-AMALFI
This is quickest by boat (35 mins).
Boats leave from the Piazza della Concordia harbour (- 500m from the railway station).
The ticket kiosk is out along the jetty.
You can find timetables online in the summer.

Alternatively you can reach Amalfi from Salerno by bus, but this takes approx 70 mins.
Buses leave from outside the railway station.

3. AMALFI-PRAIANO
This is a 20 min ride by Sita bus (or taxi)

by Ira

Very good advice from Steve.

When you exit the train station keep walking until you get to Via C.Mauro at the end of the plaza. Follow this to its end (about 3 blocks). The Pzza della Concordia will be slightly to your left. Follow this through what looks like a parking lot to the jetty.

See www.multimap.com.

Traghetto schedule last year was
Salerno (P.zza della Concordia) ? Amalfi: 3.5 E 35 min
08,40 - 09,40 - 11,30 - 14,10 - 15,30

c. by GAC

There's an even easier way: take one of the four SITA buses direct from Naples to Amalfi, then transfer to another SITA bus bound for Praiano. Connection in Amalfi could not be simpler (get off one bus, get on the second bus). No walking required. Be aware that bus service from Naples to Amalfi is Monday through Saturday ONLY. The fare is about 3.15 Euro to Amalfi, another Euro to Praiano. Check schedules and fares at www.sita-on-line.it

Here's an example:
lv Naples (Porto Immacolatella, near Ferry ships) 10:00 a.m.
ar Amalfi 11:55 a.m.
lv Amalfi 12:15 p.m.
ar Praiano 12:40 p.m.

This would be faster than taking the train to Salerno, then the bus all the way to Amalfi.

Directions to the Leonardo da Vinci train from FCO to Rome TE:

Author: BATUFFOLINA
Date: 02/11/2004, 12:12 pm
Message: ... the station is not on the ground level at Fiumicino, but on the upper (elevated) level.

As soon as you clear customs, at terminal C go LEFT (but dont go out of the terminal!!!) and take the automatic stairs DOWN (the sliding ones, I dont know how they are called in english, sorry). Then walk a little bit straight ahead and then take other automatic stairs UP (it is weird I know). Turn RIGHT following the (to trains) signs and then LEFT and you'll find yourself in the Station. You can purchase the ticket either at the train counter or at the tobacconist, same price. Remember to punch the ticket in the yellow machines at the beginning of the platform. Trains every 20 minutes or so, only first class, and the price is about 10 euros per person. This Leonardo Express train connects Fiumicino to Termini ONLY, so no way to make mistakes.

ITALY STRIKES:
www.seekitaly.com/news/from_roma.html click-on 'Strikes, Demonstrations, etc. in Italy'
www.trasportinavigazione.it/Allegati/scioperi.asp In Italian but easy to figure out, ENAV is air traffic controllers and FS are the national trains. Regards, Walter

How do we book a tour of the Parma cheese producers?

Zimmerer
Date: 02/19/2004, 06:47 am
Message: My husband and I went on a culinary tour of the Emilia Romana in Italy this weekend and loved it. We toured a Parma Prosciutto producer, a Parmesan producer, and a Balsamic Vinegar producer (from Reggio Emilia not Modena). We had a great time and learned a lot. I had a hard time finding information about culinary tours in this region, so I thought I might share some information with other food fanatics.

I have listed web links to a private tour group and to several consortiums (one for each product). You can find tour and contact information in English at each website.

Consorzio del Parmigiano Reggiano
http://www.parmigiano-reggiano.it
Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma
http://www.prosciuttodiparma.com
Consorzio di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia
http://www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it/inglese/home.htm

The consortiums of producers (cheese, vinegar or proscuitto) were created to protect and guaranteeing the geographical origin, the production process, the quality and the content of products produced in the province.

To find a package tour, tailored to your needs, I have listed the company we used. I?m sure other companies exist.
Parma Golosa
http://www.parmagolosa.it
This is the company we used to visit 3 small producers in six hours.

Have fun!

I have gotten some good comments on a guide for the Cinque Terre. His name is Sean Risatti and can be reached at cinqueterretrek@hotmail.com He charges 50E for an all day trek and will consider private tours as well.

topping this great info thread on Italy

Q. Where are good places to eat in Tuscany:

GOOD EATS IN TOSCANA !
I have never been labeled as ? BOB THE GOURMET?. However, here are some of the best places to eat in Tuscany based on feedback from my clients and others. Reservations are suggested for most:
* inexpensive ** moderate *** expensive
______________________________________________________

FLORENCE: Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco ** Borgo S. Jacopo 43

SIENA: Osteria le Logge ** Just off the Campo?great for lunch
Cane e Gato *** A fixed menu feast?must reserve !

LUCCA: Buca di San Antonio ** Near San Michele?very pleasant
Il Giglio ** Piazza del Giglio?a favorite with locals

COLLE VAL D? ELSA: Arnolfo *** Excellent gourmet cuisine

SAN GIMIGNANO: Le Vecchie Mura * Good Tuscan fare?not fancy

MONTERIGGIONI: Il Pozzo ** Rustic taverna in ancient fortress

CASTELLINA : Al Gallopapa** Varied menu in heart of Chianti

MONTEFOLLINICO: La Chiusa *** Creative Tuscan cuisine

MONTEPULCIANO: La Grotta ** Excellent?near San Biagio Church
Osteria Acquacheta* In the village?for lunch

PIENZA: Latte du Luna ** Best choice in this lovely village

SAN QUIRICO: Trattoria al Vecchio Forno * Authentic Tuscan fare

MONTALCINO: Boccon di Vino** Excellent?fixed menu at lunch
Grappolo Blu * You will find the locals here

PITIGLIANO: Osteria Il Tufo Allegro * A treat in this ancient village

In addition,

In Florence

Il Ritrovo Via de? Pucci 4/A Best food for the price Has fish. Full dinner w/wine abt 40E pp
From Pzza San Giovani (NW corner of the Pza del Duomo) walk one blk East to Via dei Martelli. Go left to Via dei Pucci. Turn Right. Look very carefully on left. No sign. Door could be locked. Ring bell.

ttt

I am planning a trip to Italy in Sept. and appreciate you starting this thread. It is so nice to have someone do something POSITIVE on this site. I find most people very helpful, but i have to say there are a couple people that regularly respond to questions in a condescending hostile manner. I always find your postings to be very helpful and your idea of condensing so much useful information was nothing short of brilliant. If people are irritated by other peoples questions I don't know why they take the time to respond. They should be spending precious time in repairing whatever is going on in their lives to make them so mean. We all know who they are. Thanks again Ira for being such a wonderful resource person.

Thank you, smack

topping this superb thread

How do I get from Rome to Siena?

1. From Rome Tiburtina Station take the SENA bus direct to Siena.

Schedule at http://www.sena.it/ita/activenews.asp?idcat=1196&idart=1227&azione=list&layout=standard&cid=A201L204L120040305195212UPAUQWCTTNG07866458

2. From Rome TE take the train to Florence SMN. Exit the train station and go to the SITA bus stop across the street on Via S. Caterina de Siena.

Train schedules at www.trenitalia.com/en
Bus schedules at http://www.sita-on-line.it/

New travelers to Italy. All this info extremely helpful. Thanks to all. My biggest concern is a husband who likes to taxi instead of walk. Can we do that easily from place to place in Florence and Rome?

Lots of taxis in Rome. Restaurants and hotels can call them for you quickly, and there are many taxi stands throughout the city.

Hello - Love this thread. I have bookmarked it and revisit it often.

I'm not a car expert, so with regards to Bob's tips on driving -- is a compact/manual car powerful enough to get around the hilltowns? We are basing ourselves in Montalcino (after flying into Florence) and planning side trips to Siena, Cortona, and many stops in between each... Thanks!!!

Underground Rome: Church of Saints Giovanni e Paolo Excavations Reopened To Public (Roman Houses)
Author: Walter
Date: 01/19/2002, 11:46 am
Message: The Church is located ~400m south of the Colosseum. Regards, Walter
www.iht.com/articles/45384.htm
www.underome.com/sub/giopao2.html
Author: ParadiseLost (paradiselost@webtv.net)
Date: 03/27/2004, 09:13 am
Message: I visited this site a couple of months after I posted this. Back then you were only allowed access on a guided tour. The tour I took was in English at 7pm, the tour and guide was very good. The entrance is 6e and only 3.5e more with a guide.
I revisited this sited last week and it is now open to general public access, no tour required.
Signs telling the history of the site, individual rooms, paintings, etc are very detailed (long) and in Italian & English.
Tough to read if there are a few people trying to read them at once. If you can, book an English tour to get the most out of this site (details below) but it is still worthwhile to visit on your own. Also if it isn't roped-off go to into that area i.e. upstairs or into a small modern hallway (entrance into the museum), etc, it just seemed to me these areas were off-limits but they weren't. The small museum is *very* nice.
Opening Hours: 1000-1300 & 1500-1800, Closed Tues & Wed, no photos and wheelchair accessible
Phone & FAX: 06 70454544
The Church is SS Giovanni e Paolo located in the Piazza di SS Giovanni e Paolo. The site entrance is located in the southwest corner of the church on Clivo d. Scauro (Clivus Scauri a Medieval street probably ancient with 7 brick arches) between the 1st & 2nd arch on the downhill side. (View if approaching from the West just above Via d. S. Gregorio standing on the Tram tracks at Sal d. Gregorio) www.davidhewson.com/images/clivus.jpg also
www2.siba.fi/~kkoskim/rooma/pages/SSGIOPAO.HTM (Historical info) http://roma.katolsk.no/giovanniepaolo.htm (Site website in Italian & e-mail address) www.caseromane.it info@spazioliberocoop.it
Regards, Walter

Cars are a personal choice. We find the compact models to be adequate and the best value. Our last trip was a Ford Focus that we enjoyed in the hill towns. Easy to park and enough zip to get up the hills. Go to slowtrav.com to see the trip report.

Oplontis 'Villa Poppea' A Beautiful Roman Villa Between Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Author: ParadiseLost (paradiselost@webtv.net)
Date: 03/27/2004, 05:12 pm
Message: If you buy the combo 'Pompeii and Ercolano/Herculaneum' ticket for 18e this site is also included (along with Boscoreale and Stabia).
This large intact suburban villa shouldn't be missed if you have time, it's only ~200m from the Torre Annunziata Circumvesuviana Station (other signs will also I believe read 'Oplontis-Villa of Poppea' at the station) and very easy to find. It can be seen in an hour if you're in a rush.
  It's the Circumvesuviana Station just before Pompeii Scavi if you're coming from Naples or just after if coming from Sorrento. It's on the Naples-Sorrento Line (Herculaneum/Ercolano & Pompeii) and also the 'Naples-Sarno via Poggiomarino' Line (which goes to Herculaneum/Ercolano but not Pompeii).
  The wall paintings are fantastic as is the general overall site. Exit the Torre Annunziata Circumvesuvana Station and turn Left (the only choice is either left
or right ). In ~70m the street ends in a "T", turn Right, in 40m cross an intersection and in ~90m the site and entrance will be on the Left (can't miss it).  Between the intersection and the site also on the left will be an Info office (Oplontis banner & signs again can't miss it, the man that runs this is very nice & helpful) you might want to pick-up a guidebook there as there are none at the site nor audioguides. The guidebook will say 'OPLONTIS The Villa Poppea' which can also be bought at other sites (Pompeii, Herculaneum, tourist shops, 5.20e).
  It's believed that this villa belonged to the glamorous Poppea who was Nero's mistress who later became his 2nd wife.   In 65AD he kicked the pregnant Poppea in the stomach and she died. By this point Nero had aleady killed his mother and 1st wife! I've read that Poppea might have had a role (Nero's ear) in their deaths also.   
There are 2 clues to this being Poppea's Villa. 1st an amphora was found in the villa's latrine with the inscription 'Secundo Poppaeae' meaning 'To Second (slave or freedman) of Poppea'.   Also this villa like Pompeii, Herculaneum and surrounding area was badly damaged in the 62AD earthquake and was being repaired. But for some reason work had stopped and was unfinished before the 79AD eruption. No one was living or working in the house when Vesuvius erupted. Was the restoration halted after Poppea was murdered in 65AD? Nero only had 4 yrs left in his reign and was consumed in building his Domus Aurea (Golden House) in Rome. After Nero's suicide there was a brief civil war and then Vespasian became Emperor thus ending the 'Julio-Claudian' Line, so the villa if Nero's property was probably confiscated? There has to be a logical reason restoration work stopped and this beautiful piece of real estate was abandoned for years? Besides the beautiful wall paintings, atriums, fountains, huge outdoor swimming pool etc. There is one small area that is rather unique. Go to http://historichouses.simshost.com/page49.htm at the bottom of the page click-on 'home plan, and notes', then click-on the villa's floor plan.   See above the "8" and across the corridor in a room there is what looks like an upside-down U or |_|. That room is the w.c./toilet, see the short hallway going to the right then to another short hallway going up & down. The bottom of that hallway exits into that long left-right hallway between the number 5 and 8 and the top of that short up/down hall exits outside even though it looks like it is still inside the villa. That is where you might want to visit.
Your visit will start in the upper left corner entrance and you will work your way thru the villa. When you get to the *large* outdoor swimming pool #7 on the rightside of the plan, you will see that long left/right hallway with stone benchs along the wall. Walk down it and just before it ends and after the benches there will be a couple of steps on the right that enters that short up/down hallway mentioned above. Go into it and turn left and visit the w.c. The stone basin on the right is where the 'sponges on a stick' were kept in water. And if you didn't know , Roman toilets had a bench seat with a hole cutout in it where they sat but also a U-shaped cutout in the front connected to the hole they sat on. The sponge-stick was their toilet paper and inserted in the front, they were rinsed/cleaned in a small water channel at their feet. This water channel was feed with water from the overflow of the stone sponge-stick basin. In public w.c.'s the sponge-sticks were kept in a basin of brine (salt & water).
  The seats are gone, probably wooden, in the public w.c. they would be marble usually.
  But what is really unique is a men's urinal in this w.c. behind a wall. This is something I have never seen or heard of before. Plus it must be further proof that this villa was owned and commanded over by a woman .
  Ok go back out to the short up/down hall and turn left. On the left wall is an inscription covered in plexiglass.   This graffiti is in Greek written by Beryllos who was probably a slave and hoped to be remembered. It reads "Mnesthei Beryllos" translated "Be Beryllos remembered".
  The villa was empty though but perhaps he was fleeing and sought refuge in the villa. And that would be the safest place in the villa, narrow hall with small rooms nearby all with strong walls=strong roof. Roofs collapsed in Pompeii due to the weight of the plumace stones and ash killing many people.
  Also he would have been only a couple of meters from the open doorway to the outside if the ceiling started to go. And able to watch the Hell their Gods had unleashed upon them.   No bodies were found at the villa so perhaps he (and his group?, master, mistress, family?) decided to take their chances in trying to flee again.
Who knows, maybe he made it!
Regards, Walter

What type of car works for you is based on a bunch of factors:

No of passengers

Size of passengers (by beau is well over 6' and can't drive the smallest cars)

Type/amount of lugage

Standard or automatic - if you're not comfortabel with a standard yuor choices are more limited

Special equipment - A/C for instance - many cars in europe don;t have AC - you may need to rent a bigger car if you need it

Destimations - highways? mountains? small towns and local road?

Budget - what can you afford - given that gas is expensive

Driving style (I'm used to a reasonable amount of power and very uncomfortable whenI don;t have it - I need to be sure the car will GO when I step on the gas)

FYI we rented a Nissan Sentra once in orlando and will never do that again. Even with the AC turned off practically nothing happens when you step on the gas (and we were trying to merge from the left, uphill, with traffic doing 70+)

So do a quick analysis of what you really need and it shouldn;t be hard to pick a car that's right for you.

topping for Shelley

With all the people going to italy thought it might be a good time to top this

Tip di Giorno:
If you like chocolate--and who doesn't--then do not miss VESTRI in Florence in Piazza Santa Croce.

This is still a helpful thread, I'm just topping it again.

For great gelato try the della Palma north of the Pantheon in Roma.

Tip di Giorno:
For good pizza in a fabulous setting try the Pizzeria Foscarini at the foot of the Accaemia bridge in Venice.

The 3 day pass for vaporettos in Venice is now 22E and good for 72 hours from when you first use it. The one day pass is now 10.50E. Enjoy !

A great place for lunch in the charming hill town of Montepulciano is Cafe Poliziano. Dinner at La Grotta is hard to beat--near the San Biagio church. Your Tuscany tip for the day.

here is a link to a thread about ordering meals in Italy

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34495492

topping for wanderfar

Hmmm ! I fell down on my job--grazie Rookie.

Wow--this forum never ceases to amaze.
This post dropped 70 slots in 3 hours.

Yes, bobthe, it must be the busy season.

whet your appetite for an impending trip to italy by scoping out other people's vacation photos:
www.virtualtourist.com (no it's not some torturous famil slide show, it's pretty decent!)

whet your appetite for an impending trip to italy by scoping out other people's vacation photos:
www.virtualtourist.com (no it's not some torturous family slide show, it's pretty decent!)

sorry! didn't mean to post that twice.

a thread on how to spend your time in Florence

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34487762

Hmmm ! The sasser worm got me and I was down for 24 hours--I was starting to get facial tics from withdrawal.
So, the tip for today is to order my favorite gelato flavor when in Italy:
stacciatella di menta[ mint chocolate chip]

one thread on cooking schools in Tuscany

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34496773

Speaking of gelato, my wife prefers a combination of crema and caffe---a good option after a meal. Remember, gelato is mandatory daily.

and here's a thread on Tropea, in Calabria

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=1373790

Buying train tickets: Most stations have automated machines for point-to-point tickets. They look like yellow ATMs, and have a touch screen & keypad. The beauty is getting rid of small coins! They even accept the 1 eurocent coins! You can pick from several languages, browse schedules, & check prices, buy R/T or one-way tickets according to the time you pick. The drawbacks -- if you buy a Eurostar or Intercity that requires seat reservations, you still go to the counter for the reservation. So read the schedule carefully, make sure you are buying the right ticket! Also, you can not buy international tickets from the machines. Don't forget to validate...

For a good orientation tour of Rome try the " CIAO ROMA" trolley.It allows you to hop off and on at will at 12 stops in centro Rome.

BLISTERS ON YOUR FEET. This is serious stuff when you are walking on hard pavement. My American "Band-Aid" brand was ineffective for the hard walking in Italy. I must share this with everyone. A pharmacist in Italy recommended that I buy Compeed brand bandages. Wow! The bandage is flesh-toned, and is covered with a film of impermiable polyurethane (to water, impurities and bacteria). The cell activity is concentrated only on the wound, and the bandage is light, super-comfortable and almost invisible.

The results are amazing. The blister was gone in two days...completely healed. I purchased more boxes when I was in France.

You can't purchase in the U.S. (the FDA hasn't approved it).

Thanks to all who have added helpful information.

Hi all,

There is a new number for reservations for the Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge?s palace 011 39 041 271 5911

If you dial 1016868 ahead of the 011, your call will be only 10 cents per minute.

For bus serice from Malpensa to Stresa, go to www.comazzibus.com to book a seat. During season, there are 3 busses in the AM starting at 0845.

Hmmm ! I seem to be lax in my duties.
However, mi scusi, I have a kidney stone that is meandering south and causing some discomfort.

And, the most important phrase you can learn in Italian is " dove la toiletta ?" Buon viaggio !

Good advice, Bob.

Hope you pass your kidney stone without too much trouble.

here's a thread on 100 best things to do in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34443219

Grazie Ira, The eagle has landed and I feel better--except I would feel even better if I had a trip plan in progress

great thread on favorite restaurants in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=74946

ATMs, TCs and CCs

VISA and MC charge 1% over the bank exchange rate.

MBNA does not add an additional fee.

AMEX charges 2% above the bank rate.

European ATMs do not charge a fee to give you Euros. Your bank will charge you a fee for "out of network" use of your card. This can be anywhere from 0 to $3.50 each time you use it.

Your bank may add 1 - 2% above the exchange rate for ATM withdrawls.

Traveler's Checks, denominated in dollars, are useful for emergencies, but not much else.

We charge as much as possible and use ATM's only when necessary.

Topping. This is a treasure trove. Thank you Ira for getting this started.

any recommendation on when's the best time to visit??

Personally, I think the best time is the last week of May/first week of June, as the spring flowers are blooming and summer heat has not begun; or mid-September, after all the Italians have just gotten back, happy and rested from their August holidays and the weather has not yet turned cool. Really, you can make a case for any time: sunflowers in July; grape harvest in October, Carnivale in February...

FYI: For a Rome, Bologna, Milan and Lake trip report, see http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34500325&start=0&dirtyBit=1

For a pristine B&B on a lovely hill top in Chianti, look at www.borgoargenina.it But, you will need to drive to dinner.

for a good thread on what to wear, see

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34490469

Opera season in Verona is a real happening. The Arena di Verona is the setting and dates back to Roman times.
For more about this, and to order tickets, go to these sites:
www.arena.it
www.verona.com

info on having cichetti (bar snacks) in Venice, and a reference to a New York Times article, are in this thread

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34500851

If you want to see Pompeii from Rome, and want to avoid the trains, look at the bus tour offered at enjoyrome.com

How to get from the Venice airport to the hotel.

The easiest is a water taxi, about 90E. You take the free shutlle to the docks.

The Aliliguna water shuttle, 10E
See http://www.alilaguna.it/

Land bus to Piazza Roma and the Vaporetto to San Marco. About 6E.

Topping for a new round of Italy travelers.

For some fabulous photos of Tuscany go to terreditoscana.com Best I have seen, other than mine of course.

thread on favorite picnic spots in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34501112

unusual things to see in Venice

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34501886

a thread on limoncello

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34462827

To the top for Gayle !

a trip report on Positano and Amalfi

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34496753

what to expect as a response for a request for tickets for the Scavi tour
in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34497085

NEWSFLASH !

A new tunnel is being built between Lugano and Menaggio to improve that route.

This is a great thread that I wish was available when I planned my first trip to Italy. Has anyone ever done such a thread on Paris? If not would anyone be willing to start one as that is the trip for next year. Still trying to find the time to get the trip report done on our Italy trip. Unfortunately we were hit with the death of two separate family members within a three week period after returning in mid-April and I am just now getting around to developing photos and reviewing my journal. Take Care Jackie

The best meal we have had in Tuscany was at Buca di San Antonio in Lucca.
Be sure to call ahead.

Hi jdraper
>...Has anyone ever done such a thread on Paris? <

I did start "helpful information: France", but so many of the long-term posters pooh-poohed the idea that I gave it up.

Perhaps my Paris trip report will be of use to you.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34497442

Many often recommend the Slow Travel site for Italy information. Here is a link to an article there by Alice Twain, the most comprehensive description of the Italian train system I've ever read. It's a lengthy report, with many sections, including images and translations of actual tickets.

Everything you need to know about trains in Italy:

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/trains/

Grazie Ellen, You beat me to it.
For search purposes, let me emphasize it has everything about ITALY TRAINS.

Here is a link to a good article about Orvieto.
http://www.twenj.net/orvieto.htm

Ira: Thank you for steering me toward your Paris trip report. It was a great report and there was so much helpful information I printed it in it's entirety for the Paris file. I still think it would be a great idea to do a helpful hints France thread as this one on Italy is filled with a lot of information in short snippets that are great for a novice planning a first trip. Oh well, great minds may think alike but it would appear that nobody else is of like mind. Take Care Jackie

You are welcome, jd

To book advance reservations at the fabulous Galleria Borghese--and you must--go to www.galleriaborghese.it

Thanks, Bob

Taking babies and children:

If your baby is in diapers, either bring enough with you or figure out how much the baby weighs in kilos, because the weight on packaged diapers is in kilos, not pounds.

Baby food: not found at the grocers, but rather in the pharmacia. While some of the names are the same, the taste is entirely different. Salt is added. Stuffed bell peppers, containing rice, tomatoes and chopped lamb or beef found in little shops makes a good alternative for little ones who have teeth.

Children under 6 generally travel free on trains and other public transportation.

The type of stroller you buy is essential. A cobble-stone street can kill the wheels or cause the baby to fall out of the stroller if not properly secured. The stroller should be light-weight, but sturdy. One that changes from sitting up to completely reclining is best, since the baby can sleep.

Eating in restaurants is no problem.

Carry a damp washcloth in a plastic baggy and plastic bags to dispose of diapers, etc., at all times.

Good stuff surfergirl !
An area of expertise not easily found.

To the top for weekenders !

Thanks Bob! My kid's 14 now, and we're heading back to Italy next week, but I still remember him at 13 months and us attempting to navigate the canals in Venice!

P.S. -- we stay at the same hotel in Paris -- room 55.

TTT for whipster !

A good place for lunch in south Tuscany is Vecchio Forno in San Quirico, owned by the same guy as the Palazzo del Capitano hotel.

Bus service from Rome to Sorento:

Volaviamare offers Rome to Naples by bus, then hydrofoil to Sorrento. The fee seems quite reasonable (25 euro).

An alternative inexpensive option is the MAROZZI Rome-Sorrento bus service which costs € 16
www.marozzivt.it

ParadiseLost (paradiselost@webtv.net)
Date: 06/30/2004, 07:25 pm
Message: [My directions were a link on the twenj.com website but now that that site no more I thought I would repost them here. Regards, Walter]
This trip requires 1 easy change of trains, from the metro to a commuter train. You can get there and back (R/T) with either 2 Rome Metro/bus tickets (1e each & valid for 75minutes), a 1 Metro/bus Daypass (4e), a 3-day pass (11e) or a Weekly pass (16e).
So the *exact* same ticket you used to board the metro (or bus) is also valid on the Ferrovia Rome-Lido commuter train to Ostia Antica.
It took me ~50min from the Termini metro stop to Ostia Antica's train station and then a 10 minute walk to the site.
Take Metro Line "B" towards "Laurentina" and get off at the "Piramide" stop (4 stops from Termini). It's a small station, the Metro stop is outside and below streetlevel and the Lido trains are unseen but parallel to the metro tracks at street level. Exit the metro car and turn left and you will see escalator/stairs and a sign "Ferrovia Roma-Lido".
Top of stairs, turn left (crossing over the metro tracks) and you will see 6 platforms. *All* of these trains go Lido and stop at Ostia Antica but not all are used during the off-peak non-rush hours. An electronic signboard at the head of the platform will show which train is leaving next and at what time (If they are all blank don't worry, one of them will light-up ~10min before departure.
Also it will be the only train/platform that the locals are using. {There is a w.c. in the station and on Platform 6. If you have time step *right* outside the station and see the Pyramid of Cestius c.18-12BC and the Ostia Gate & walls AD 271-5 with a small museum or visit the Protestant Cemetery nearby (resting place of Keats & Shelley-well his heart is buried there.
Also the snackbar in front of the station has some cheap decent food}.
Board the train and to ease your mind look above the door at the train station map. Ostia Antica is the 6th stop and takes ~25min.
At the Ostia Antica stop when you 1st get off the train, just across the tracks will be the small station just to the left is a w.c & water faucet, and ~20M in front of the station is a blue pedestrian overpass that you want to take.
Exit the platform via the pedestrian tunnel and into the station. Just walk over the highway on that ped walkway and just go *straight*, after a couple of hundred meters or so you cross a 2 lane road and the parking lot for the site is 50m in front of you.
In the parking lot the ticket booth (w.c.) & entrance is 50m to the left.
Tickets are 4e and I suggest getting the audio guide (4e with picture ID or possibly CC for security). Also have on hand (the Blue Guide Rome is good) or buy a guidebook/*Map* of the site (available at ticket booth & museum). Don't forget to visit the museum (w.c.) and the very historic Synagogue (alittle off the beaten track) on the site.
*Also* be sure to bring water or even better pack a small picnic lunch and have a quiet picnic it any of the hundreds of secluded out of the way spots. There is also a restaurant at the museum.
After the audio guide tour is over be certain to visit the western end of the site. You can walk around so alone among the maze-like buildings and paths and make amazing discoveries on your own.
I like the area in the V section of Decumanus Maximus and Via Della Foce. Look for a 2 storey building that you can climb on top of in this area (good view) but also that particular area has some excellent areas to explore and find mosaics, frescos and some pretty cool rooms.
One overlooked really cool site is under the Baths of Mithras where the "Mithras and the Bull" statue was found, now in the museum but replaced by a copy. On the main road thru the site (Decumaus Maximus) ~75m west of the Capitolium/Forum area, you come upon a main intersection. There is a road (90deg) to your left & right and the main road goes straight but at a slight left angle, at a 45deg angle to your right there is a road/path, take it. You will see on the right 2 red tile covered protected sites followed by 5 trees in a row, take a right after the 5th tree, you will come upon the Baths on your right (it's the last ruin, 2 columns and a taller lone column with a capital on top. Now see the short (3 sections, 1m high) modern cast iron fence (NW corner of the Baths) below that is the entrance to under the baths and statue. If you walk past the statue there is a maze-like tunnel that takes you under the baths, and you can see how they operated.

Learn the meaning of the sign you will see when driving [SENSO UNICO]

thread on Rome limo service

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34472398

Stories about aggressive men at Italy's train stations who disguise themselves as "official" handlers, invading private space and property and catching unsuspecting tourists by surprise, are all too common. DO NOT TOLERATE SUCH BEHAVIOR!

Unfortunately, the Italian authorities are too slow to respond to these annoying con artists and our only defense is to fight back with our wallets (or, at least, make the threat).

I strongly urge anyone who has fallen victim to any hoodlum or rip-off activity while in Italy to write a complaint to the Italian Government Tourist Board and tell them you will NOT return to Italy until you read in the press that the authorities have taken the appropriate action to protect Italy's foreign visitors. (Say this whether you mean it or not.)

Believe me, Italy wants (needs) your business. Let them know you mean business, too.

Write to:

ITALIAN GOVERNMENT TOURIST BOARD
Travel Commissioner: Mr. Eugenio Magnani
630 Fifth Avenue
Suite 1565
New York, NY 10111

...and send a carbon copy to:

ENTE NAZIONALE ITALIANO per il Turismo (ENIT)
Chairman: Mr. Amedeo Ottaviani
Via Marghera 2/6
00185 Roma
Italia

I promise you, your letters of complaint will make a difference.

Travel safely!

I'm adding the words
Helpful Information Italy

here again, in case this makes a search on those words easier than the current pain it is

info on converting currency

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34512141

planning your time in Florence

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34511883

Lorraine3636
Date: 07/10/2004, 08:05 pm
Message: .... The best [International Calling Card] to have is purchased from a tabbachi store and it's called insieme.

It was 5 euros and you get 120 minutes international calling from the hotel room. The one I first purchased that you use on the pay phone and break off the corner was 5 euros also but only lasted for about 10 minutes. I did use that one for calling other places in Italy, but for international calls it was too expensive.

Private driver service on the Amalfi coast is always a hot topic. Ira, and others have touted Renato Cuomo as excellent, and I am sure they are correct. As an option, I have gotten good feedback on this service as well:

www.tourofitaly.com Much more than just transfer services.

Always good to have options, Bob

article on
"Underground Rome"

http://www.theatlantic.com/issues/97apr/rome.htm

What is Gelato?

Gelato is Italy?s version of ice cream, with three major differences.

First, gelato has significantly less butterfat than ice cream's typical 18 and 26 percent.

However, less fat does not mean less taste. With the lower butterfat content, gelato is less solidly frozen than ice cream and melts in the mouth faster. Therefore, the customer will taste gelato?s full flavor immediately.

Second, gelato has a much higher density than ice cream. Ice cream is produced by mixing cream, milk and sugar, then adding air. Manufacturers add air to ice cream because it nearly doubles the quantity of their product. But, it cuts their quality in half. No air is added to gelato. The result is a higher quality dessert with a richer, creamier taste.

Third, gelato is served slightly warmer than ice cream. While both gelato and ice cream are served well below the freezing temperature of 32 degrees Fahrenheit, gelato is served 10 to 15 degrees warmer than ice cream. Because it is less solidly frozen, gelato?s taste is further enhanced as it melts in the mouth.

Gelato uses real fruit, nuts, chocolates, milk and cream, not syrups, to make award winning gelato. Three centuries ago, northern and southern Italy created two separate and distinct gelato recipes. In the north, the people of Dolomite made gelato with fresh milk, cream and sugar. In Sicily, the southern Italians used a predominantly water-based gelato with fresh fruit.

Ahhh, gelato.

Indeed gelato ! Nice article--the serving temp is a key difference.

Every day in Italia deserves both gelato and limoncello. Hmmm! Come to think of it, why just in Italia?

In addition to the usual suspects for hotels in Positano, I have recently discovered this one that looks like a player: www.puntaregina.com

Also endorsed by Karen Brown

Bus Service between Rome and Positano

Steve_James
Date: 07/24/2004, 08:47 am
Message: The Rome-Positano-Rome bus service runs June-September.

Starting and finishing dates vary from year to year, so you'd need to check with the operator Marozzi.
www.marozzivt.it

Rome-Positano leaves Rome (Tiburtina Station)) at 07.00a.m.
Positano-Rome leaves Positano approx. 16.00

Journey time: 4.5-5 hours.
Fare: Approx. €20

Hope this helps ...

TTT for Terri

thread with suggestions on seeing and appreciating art in Italy

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34516543

I'm trying to get in shape for our Sept Italy trip, by sampling as much gelato here as possible. Is it always smooth, or are there chunky flavors? (eg: nuts, chocolate, etc?)

GAC
Date: 07/29/2004, 06:42 pm
Message: You can look up complete FERRY schedules for the Amalfi Coast (Salerno-Amalfi-Positano-Sorrento) at:

www.salernocity.com
click on "Turismo", then
"Traghetti", then
"Intercostiera 2004"

Schedules are current as of 20 July 2004, and are valid for the summer season. Service is reduced in winter. Ferries depart from the Piazza della Concordia dock EXCEPT those noted as leaving from Molo Manfredi, across town by the Jolly Hotel (inconvenient to train station). Train station to Concordia dock is approx. 400 yards, all flat. Travel time to Amalfi is 35 minutes; to Positano, 1 hour.

REMEMBER that there is also SITA bus service to Amalfi every 30-60 minutes from the Salerno train station. Bus service is more frequent (6:00 to 22:30, year-round) and cheaper than the ferry. Travel time by bus is 70 minutes to Amalfi, and you can connect in Amalfi to hourly buses bound for Ravello and for Positano/Sorrento. Amalfi to Positano by bus is another 40 minutes.
www.sita-on-line.it

GAC
Date: 07/29/2004, 06:00 pm
Message: From Rome to San Gimignano, there are essentially two routes: one through Siena, the other through Florence. Connecting through Florence should be faster.

First Alternative:
Rome Tiburtina to Siena by SENA bus: 5 runs daily; 2.5 hours; www.sena.it
Connect to TRA-IN bus to San Gimignano (may require connection in Poggibonsi)
www.trainspa.it

Second Alternative: Rome Termini to Florence S. M. Novella by Eurostar train: hourly departures; 1.5 hours. www.trenitalia.com
Connect to SITA bus to Poggibonsi, second bus to San Gimignano.
www.sita-on-line.it

Thank you Ira and everyone who added to this. I printed all 56 pages and have been going through it with a highlighter for days. I am having so much fun! Now I have to go to all of the websites. I will be busy for weeks.

The gelato information was great. I can't tell you how many debates I have had over gelato.
THANKS TO EVERYONE this is wonderful.

ttt

Oh Panucci, you are a confirmed fanatic now.

ALERT ! Anyone who is think ing about travel to Italy will be totally inspired by spending some time at this web site: www.jimtardio.com
The best photos I have seen anywhere.

Thanks, Bob. What fantastic pictures!

Good input here !
Author: almesq
Date: 08/13/2004, 01:18 pm
Message: There have been many posts about buying tickets online on trenitalia.com, and registering on the Italian language site, and buying tickets on the Italian language site. You can now register and buy tickets on the English language site on trenitalia.com. I was on the site last night, and it had the registration option, but the ticket buying was temporarily down. Today, however, I put in the train I wanted to take from Rome to Venice next month, and the purchase option was available.
I was a little nervous about doing it in Italian, but now that they have it on the English site, I may go ahead and do it.
I just wanted to post this because I know it has been the subject of many posts and I hope it helps.

Thanks Bob!
I also want to mention that shortly after my post, I used the new site and purchased the tickets. It couldn't have been easier, and I have already gotten the confirmation email from Trenitalia. (I had previously registered on the Italian site, so I'm not sure if you have to register on the new site before buying, but you can now do that in English too).
Glad I could contribute to this thread, since I've gotten so much information here for my first trip to Italy next month. Hopefully when I get back I'll be able to repay everyone by contributing more helpful information.

Well, that certainly makes it easier for those who speak English.

Yes, I also used the English Trenitalia site to get an account, and to book tickets. It was very easy to use!

a thread about great books set in or about Italy

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34410488

Time to top this again for the rash of Italy questions.

BATUFFOLINA
Date: 08/27/2004, 08:25 pm
Message: SUE: HERE IS THE INFO I HAD GIVEN SOME MONTHS AGO!!!! I GUESS THAT NOW YOU HAVE IT ALL!

Message: I am a local (lived in Genzano which is 20 km from Ciampino) so this is the info I can give you: once you get out of Ciampino airport walk straight ahead of you for about 200 metres (passing the parking lot and walking along the entrance road of the airport). You will reach a very trafficated street which is Via Appia. There is a police cabin (you can ask them to show you where the bus station is), and a little bit furhter, on the same side walk, there is the COTRAL bus stop (dont cross the Appia because the bus station across the street leads towards Velletri or Latina NOT to Rome). Every 20 minutes or so (depending on the day, on sunday it is about every 45-50 minutes) there is a BLUE COTRALBUS that goes to ROMA ANAGNINA (coming from LAtina or Velletri, but it is irrelevant what the origin is). The ride is about 10 minutes. Note: you must purchase a ticket before getting on the bus. It costs about 75 euro cents. There must be a tobacconist in the Airport somewhere where you can get it. If you have a lot of baggages it could be a problem to step on the bus especially if it is in the morning when lots of people use the cotral bus to go to Rome to work. It is an easy ride though.

OOPS,

That should have been headed
"How to get to Rome from Ciampino Airport".

Good stuff !

For those looking for a good base location to tour Veneto, take a look at this hotel just outside Bassano del Grappa--a good centro location:
www.ca-sette.it

Ferry Schedules on the Amalfi Coast

Salerno (P.zza della Concordia) - Minori - Amalfi - Positano - Sorrento

and

Salerno (Molo Manfredi) - Amalfi - Capri

See http://www.salernocity.com/comune/trasporti/traghetti/default_new.asp

For more than you will ever need to know about train travel in Italy, go to slowtrav.com and find the very comprehensive article by Alice Twain--who lives in Milan---great stuff.

Ira,
I tried calling, as you instructed, for the Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge's palace, and got a recording saying it was an invalid number. I dialed 1016868 011 39 041 271 5911. Do I need to enter an additional 1 in front? Has anyone else tried this recently?

It does seem that the number for the Secret Itinerary has changed. This is from the Web site of the Ducal Palace:

0415209070

Before that, you have to dial 011 and 39 for Italy. I have no idea which 9-digit number will get you the cheapest rates.

Secret Doges Tour reservations - OK, I finally got it! I realized that the 10-16-868 # must be similar to the 10-10 #s that are out there to get cheap long-distance calls. But some of these numbers are only valid in certain areas. I found one that works in my area (Western NY) which charges 46 cents per call plus 3 cents a minute. It was 10-10-987, and is an MCI #, so perhaps it's more global.
But when I did get thru to the number 011 39 041 271 5911, they only took reservations for the following day. For anything more in the future, you need to call 011 39 041 520 9070. That worked fine for me today.

Getting from Ciampino Airport to Rome

LeCanard
Date: 09/11/2004, 06:13 am
Message: Topping because of some update.
The bus service between Ciampino Airport and Anagnina Metro Station, in Rome, is now operated by "Schiaffini Travel" on behalf of the regional transport company.
Tickets (1 euro) can be bought on board, now.
New timetables on : http://www.schiaffini.it/AlPercorrenze2.asp?Loc=17&Sub=66&p=1

Departures are : at Anagnina Metro Station bus terminal from platform 1;
at Ciampino Town Railway Staion (20 minutes after Anagnina) just outside the station building;
and in front of the arrival hall at the Airport.
Hope this helps
Luca

Here are hotels in Venice that have often been recommended on this board:

http://www.pensioneaccademia.it/
http://www.theinnkeeper.com/bnb/7514
http://www.hotelbernardi.com/en/hotel.html
http://www.veniceby.com/hotelacalcina/

The trenitalia.com web site is often down and does not give good info for train travel outside of Italy. A great back up site is www.rail.ch , the Swiss rail site.

information on traveling from Milan to Bellagio

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34533252

Topping for Helene

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34535331

is a thread on walking routes in Assisi

For the best input on food in Florence, go to www.divinacucina.com for reviews by a local by neighborhood.

-
2004 UPDATE: Many visitors to this forum have either used or recommended 'Scala Reale' for day tours in Rome. Be aware that they have now been integrated with Context Rome. If you enter their old website, www.scalareale.org, it'll take you to the Context Rome site, www.contextrome.com

a link to helpful information on staying in convents and monasteries in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34537541

Some pics to get your heart pumping about bella Italia:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/23970/

It's been several years since Ed Gehrlein passed away, yet there's still worthwhile information stashed on the travel website, Traveling with Ed and Julie. Their site is no longer updated---it can be found at:
http://web.archive.org/web/19981212021850/http://twenj.com/

Grazie Tess, I had lost that URL

It really is the easiest thing in the world to make those reservations for Uffizi and Accademia in Florence. I just did it by phone. I did have to wait on hold for a couple minutes. I also made reservations for the Secret Itineraries tour in Venice on a separate call, which was also very easy. With my phone card, the cost of these calls is about 25 cents total.

Note that until January 2005 you can also see the Vasari Corridor (the top part of the Ponte Vecchio) if you have an Uffizi reservation for the correct time. See the instructions on this Slowtalk thread:
http://slowtalk.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=759607521&f=862600685&m=65010348811&r=22910039811

a thread on books about art and wine

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34547191

Am glad to see this classic reappear. It should be mandatory reading for all Italy travelers. Here are some helpful planning web sites for bookings:
WEB SITES FOR TRAVEL PLANNING & ADVANCE BOOKINGS:

www.autoeurope.com Best for car rentals—book by phone at 800-223-5555
www.viamichelin.com Great site for driving routes and local maps
www.weatherbase.com See historical weather for any destination
www.trenitalia.com For train schedules and prices—in Italy
www.rail.ch Swiss rail site with schedules for most of Europe
www.ticketeria.it To book most museums and other events in Italy
www.weekendafirenze.com To book Florence museums and more
www.scalareale.org Excellent walking tours in Rome
www.selectitaly.com USA company can book museum reservations & more
www.galleriaborghese.it Best place to book mandatory reservations online
www.museionline.com Book museums all over Italy
www.walksinsidevenice.com Customized walking tours in Venice

traveling Rome to Gubbio

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34547505

thread on Rome restaurants, good for
families and kids

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34546535

restaurant recommendations for towns in Tuscany

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34548086

another thread on buying glass on Murano

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34548931

Here is an update to my budget article for 2005---what a shock !

Italy Travel Budget for 2005

Independent travel to Europe continues to become even more popular with American tourists, and it seems that Italy has become everyone's favorite destination. This phenomenon is certainly not difficult to understand for those of us who have learned to savor BELLA ITALIA.

During the past seven years I have been fortunate to have planned more than 110 personalized itineraries for independent travelers to southern Europe - most of them to Italy. Understandably, one of the first questions I get from a prospective client is about the projected costs. My quick answer is the obvious one, " that depends on you and your preferred travel style". As we delve deeper it becomes clear that the style choices of would-be independents can vary widely; from youth hostel backpackers to luxury five star jet-setters. We will ignore these extremes for now and concentrate on the more mainstream middle ranges.

Here are some assumptions for our hypothetical itinerary:

• This is a 14-day [13 night] itinerary to Italy for a couple during the shoulder season months of April, May, Sept. and Oct. These are the best months for travel to Italy.
• Flying into Milan or Venice and out of Rome, or vice versa, with the purchase of tourist class tickets, hopefully from a consolidator. The airfare is a big variable.
• The 2-star budget assumes rail travel. The rental cars include all insurance and mileage, and are for a ten day rental period. Car choices are compact/manual [3-star] and mid-size/auto [4 star].
• The prices quoted assume an exchange rate of one euro=$1.33. I would add 10% to the accommodation prices if you plan to spend all of your time in the major art cities.
THIS BUDGET IS STICKER SHOCK TO THOSE OF US WHO HAVE TRAVELLED OFTEN TO ITALY OVER THE PAST TWENTY YEARS. THE CULPRIT IS THE VALUE OF THE DOLLAR THAT HAS DECLINED 40% IN THE PAST THREE YEARS. I USED TO BUDGET $5000 FOR OUR TRIPS, BUT NOW $6600 FOR OUR MAY TRIP TO SICILY.

Now that we have our parameters set let's go ahead and plan our budget. Remember, this is for planning purposes only and is really controlled by you. You may decide to blow the budget on Murano glass, Florentine leather, or Bellagio silk. But, I do feel this to be a realistic estimate of expenses for a typical itinerary in 2005.

TRAVEL EXPENSE ITEM 2 STAR 3 STAR 4 STAR
AIRFARE - 2 PEOPLE 1600 1600 1600
RAIL TICKETS - 2 PEOPLE 350 N/A N/A
CAR RENTAL - ALL INCL. N/A 655 1040
* PETROL N/A 160 200
* TOLLS N/A 50 50
TOTAL TRANSPORT $1950 $2465 $2890
HOTELS & INNS - 13 NITES 1500 2400 3500
FOOD & DRINK 1050 1400 1900
TOURISM COSTS 300 300 500
GELATO & CAPPUCCINO 150 150 200
MISC. EXTRAS 150 150 200
DAILY LIVING TOTALS $3150 $4400 $6300

TOTAL TRIP COSTS: $5100 $6865 $9150

Let me emphasize that these cost projections are merely estimates and will vary widely based on seasonal variations and desired destinations. The fact is that some couples will have a great two-week adventure in Europe and spend less than $3500, while others may let an upscale tour company make the decisions for them and end up spending $10,000.

Bob, GULP!!!! That is a big jump for sure. Guess I am not shocked though.

I am suppose to go in June. I do get a break on the hotel (have stayed there before and my friend is one of the night managers and I know the 2 men and their wives fairly well).

Will not have car expense. Train ticket will be r/t to Florence, from area of Veneto.

Friends feed me alot however I also will be treating them to restaurants so think food budget more or less evens out.

Will sure not do shopping, which in no way would spoil my trip.

Well, guess I will not make the trip as long as I planned to help keep cost down.

I had more or less budgeted about $4,000.00 max. Will sit down tonight and do some real good figuring of numbers.

Thank you so much for this timely post. It is very kind of you to take the time to share the cost with us.

A Happy New Year to you and your loved ones.

Hi Love,

Keep in mind that Bob's budget was for 2 people.

Your $4000 should be quite adequate.

Oh Ira, you are right!! Good grief, as I was doing the laundry (playing catch up after the holidays) I was thinking "should I even go to Italy this year".

Yes of course you are right, Bob's budget is for two people and I will be traveling on my own.

Thank you dear one! I didn't sit down and figure out cost tonight because I didn't want to see the bottom line.

So tomorrow I will do that. Stupid me,
I should have picked up on the fact that the budget was for two people not one. Thank you so much for your post. And I did not want to spend $4,000.00. But sure know with the low dollar that traveling to Europe is expensive.

Take good care, and Happy New Year to you and your loved ones. You sure made my night a happier one.

Enjoy your trip, Love.

link to a thread on planning travel

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34446472

more suggestions on travelplanning and research

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34404808

for a link to a website comparing popular guidebooks and maps

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34549886

a thread on pickpockets in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34506367

getting from New York City to Pensione La Calcina in Venice

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34550125

thread on saints depicted in paintings, and links to information on this subject

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34550186

Great books set in, or about, Italy and Italian topics

Great books set in, or about, Italy and Italian topics

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34410488

How to spend 7 days in Rome

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34545580

Is there any threads like this for Spain. Thanks

Lodging reviews January 2005

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34551008

I'll link my trip reports since they include some "off-the-beaten-track" places:

August 2004: I spent 3 weeks visiting Sardinia, Maratea, Paestum, Tropea & Gioiosa Ionica in Calabria and Taormina

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34526714

September 2003: Rome and Calabria

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34449517

March-April 2003: Sicily

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34412340

movies about Italy that inspire travel

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34551432

Time to top this

Rome convents that take in guests

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34537541

Car rental agencies that have been recommended by many Fodorites.

Italy requires that you take the CDW.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34443340

Here are Florence to SS222 directions.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34559271

This is the scenic road through Tuscany.

Just a point of clarification. The S222 route is really the well traveled tourist trail thru CHIANTI, and a pleasant drive. There are more scenic drives in other parts of Tuscany.

Which ones, Bob?

HI - i'm new at this - should we try to visit the Tower of Pisa on the day they have the boat race for San Ranieri in June? anyone have advice about crowds and whether its worth it to see the race?

Three come to mind:
1. The S-146 corridor between Montepulciano and San Quirico and on to Montalcino. However, include diversions from Pienza to Montisi to the north and south to the area around Monticchiello--take your camera.

2. The Le Crete area south of Asciano and down to the abbey at Oliveto Maggiore.

3. The area between Volterra and San Gimignano along S-68 and north of there

I am sure others have their favorites.

I LOVE this post! Just to add my 2 cents on BLISTERS post, just put deodrant on your feet, as with new shoes and long walks..no moisture - no blisters. I promise, it works wonders!!! (Sorry can't help you with 'painful, sore feet'!)

This is wonderful! A big thank you to everyone!

Great thread. Thanks all.

Spent 10 days in Rome and Siena last year. Going back to Rome and then to Bellagio in May for 17 days and will be much better prepared because of these posts. Any suggestions on "must see" in 2-day drive between Rome and Bellagio or around the lakes, with the benefit of a car?

Lots of Italy related information from Infotrack at

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34565596

Wow, great thread. I think I need to spend some time reading through the wonderful information

Hi all,

This thread has gotten very long, due to all of the good folks who have provided helpful information.

I am linking it to "Helpful Information: Italy 2"

this is the link for the new thread
Helpful Information Italy 2

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34568596

ttt

subscribing

ttt

ttt

Thanks to all that have posted on this great thread. I've been Italy-dormant for a couple years, busy with work and getting married. I'll add and have a couple questions.

Best meals in Italy: Dinner at Villa d'Este and Al Sorriso, just outside Lago d'Orta. Da Enzo in Siena is a great seafood place unvisited by tourists. there is also a nice ristorante straight across from Le Logge in Siena; can't remember the name right now.

So, my wife and I are going to Venice and Milan/Orta at the end of September. I noted the recommendation for Pizzeria Foscarini, Bob. Does anyone have rec's on best wine bar and place to hang out leisurely after dinner. We'd enjoy nice view, not boisterous but lively. Any other trattorie or osterie?

Also, we plan to meander from Venice to Milan over a couple days. Saw a mention of beautiful small towns in LA Times this past weekend http://www.borghitalia.it/html/club_en.php# I'd love to find a town with a great Prosecco producer. Any recs?

Alfredo

I thought I'd pull this strand back to the top. It was very helpful to me.

Now I understand what "to the top" means. It is very very helpful and I need to add it to my little list so I can find it easily. Anyone travelled to Vasto? or Campobasso? if so, is it easy to drive to, what about public transport? Accommodation? Sights?

Thank you, thank you.....I have a month to research my first trip out of the US. Rome, Florence and Venice. You are answering questions I haven't even thought of.

ginder, this thread is a reference link, this and Helpful Information Italy 2
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34568596
are to provide links and updated information on all things Italy.
For your own questions, let me suggest that you post a separate question with a header that will be noticed

Hi ginder, Campobosso?? Where will you be driving from to get to Campobosso? I assume Rome but please advise.

Seems long to me, but had to top just to see how long long is, and:

THERE IS A NEW THREAD CALLED ---

HELPFUL INFORMATION: ITALY 2

THIS THREAD BECAME TOO LONG, SO IF YOU HAVE ANYTNING TO ADD, PLEASE ADD IT THERE - HERE IS THE THREAD

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2

Okay, that didn't work too well. Ira?

Helpful Information 2 is at
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34568596

Great tips! Thank you all.

marking for my records

wow! all the info needed at my fingertips! Thanks everyone for posting! topping for other italy travelers!

ttt

Thank you so much for all the information! Special thanks to Ira, Bob and Elaine for your expertise.

I am planning my next trip to Italy in September but will be heading to an area I haven't seen before--you filled in the blanks.

I think you should work together and develop personalized tour guides for Italy, etc.

Thanks again.

It lives !

found this...loved it...think it needs to be topped

thanks to everyone who added to it...I leave in 7 days and think this thread is wonderful.

bookmarking

I had to bookmark. There is soooo much good information.

guess I should bookmark too

Just went through the first thread, so glad I found these threads. So helpful! Thanks to ira, Bob, elaine and all others who have contributed.

bookmark!

ttt

bookmark

For all you travelers who have delicate feet, buy some SPENCO insoles. Incredible--absolutely prevents blisters on soles of feet. I have used them for 40+ years and never had a problem. They are very comfortable and last for many years.

Cheers,

Jinx Hoover

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