RCLCOLPB

I see that dchal09 has just posted a somewhat similar question, and I will be watching responses to his itinerary with great interest. However, we don't have the same desire to include scuba or as much of an interest in hiking.

We will be visiting Sicily for 15 nights in late Sept. to early October and are trying to settle on an itinerary so we can start making hotel and car rental reservations. We have been benefitting tremendously from the wonderful trip reports on this forum.

Please let me know if you have any suggested changes or comments. I have also asked some questions at the end about things that we are struggling with. I realize that this may look like we are trying to see too much in two weeks, but we tend to not be as slow travelers as perhaps we should be.

Saturday: Arrive at Catania airport from U.S. (via Paris and Rome) at 4 PM. Go to Taormina for the night (probably car service).

Sunday: Taormina

Monday: Travel to Ortigia (probably by train)

Tuesday: Ortigia

Wednesday: Ortigia

Thursday: Pick up rental car and drive to Modica, perhaps via Noto; stay in Modica

Friday: Day trip to Noto if did not go on Thursday, and/or Vendicari and/or Ragusa; stay in Modica

Saturday: depart early for Villa Romana; after visiting Villa Romana, drive to Agrigento, possibly with stop in Enna if we have time (see temples lit up in Agrigento)

Sunday: Visit temples in Agrigento; then drive to Selinunte/Menfi area. Use that as base for day trip(s) on following day(s), staying at either Villa Sogno or La Foresteria Planeta.

Monday: Stay in Selinunte/Menfi area; day trip to Selinunte archeological site, Mazara, Sciacca (?)

Tuesday: Day trip to Trapani, Erice, and Segesta (or better to move to a hotel in Trapani or Erice?)

Wednesday: Drive to Palermo and drop off rental car

Thursday: Palermo, including Monreale

Friday: train to Cefalu for half day, stay in Palermo

Saturday: bus from Palermo to Catania; stay close to airport for very early Sunday departure

Sunday: depart for U.S. from Catania airport

4 additional questions:

--This itinerary does not include going to Aeolian or Egadi Islands. Do you think that is a mistake?

--This itinerary does not include a visit to Mt. Etna, which I sense is a controversial topic. On balance we are not convinced that we would enjoy going up there all that much, and would be just as happy seeing it from afar (weather permitting). Do you think that would be a big mistake?

--Do you think we would be better off picking up the rental car at Catania Airport and driving to Taormina and then to Siracusa, rather than picking up the car in Siracusa? Or picking up the car in Siracusa? If we picked up the car earlier, would you recommend seeing anything between Taormina and Siracusa?

--This itinerary does not allow for driving through Madonie. Do you think we should drive to Madonie and Cefalu on Wednesday before dropping the car off in Palermo, rather than taking the train to Cefalu?

Thanks!

Len

dwdvagamundo

RC--

Looks O.K. as long as it fits with your interests.

Islands: your call. We didn't go and don't feel we missed anything, but lots of people like them.

Mt. Etna: We went onto the flanks of Mt. Etna only because my spouse's family came from a city there. We did not go to the top and don't regret not having done so. Again, personal preference. Whether you go or not, you'll have a great time.

car: you're right to not try to take a car to Taormina. We couldn't find a place to park (although we weren't staying there) and so left. So pick the car up on the way out of Siracusa.

Cefalu': we took the train from Palermo and back and it worked out well. the train was fast and inexpensive.

neckervd

Your itinerary sounds good. Just a few remarks:
Taormina - Siracusa by train is easy.
Siracusa is a intersting place, but 3 days is a lot.
Modica, Noto, Ragusa, etc. are stunning baroque towns, but they (resp the center) are small and can easily be visited in a few hrs.
Marinella/Selinunte is a beach town, may be rather deserted in automn.
I would stay at least 2 days in Palermo.

You have time to visit the Aeolian Islands if you are particularly interested in (at least Vulcano and Lipari). In this case i would drive via Cefalu - Milazzo (leave the car there in a save parking) - Messina - Taormina and visit the latter at the end instead of the beginning.

The Aeolian Islands are more touristy than the Egadi, where you might be the only tourists.
Madonie: if you like this kind of mountainous area and don't fear the hairpin curves, why not? It's really up to you!

janisj

why did you post this twice?

RCLCOLPB

Sorry about the double posting. I was trying to edit it before submitting, my computer froze, and it somehow got submitted without my realizing it.

Len

janisj

Just be sure to check both threads since some will post advice on one or the other . . .

annhig

you could try asking the moderators to consolidate the threads.

freedaleo81

If you like to hike, you should consider taking a jeep and hiking tour on Etna. We did this in September 2012 and it was one of the highlights of the trip. Our hike was on the dormant side of Etna but on the location of past eruptions. It was like hiking on the moon--truly spectacular. We reserved through bestofsicily.com and our trip included a visit to the Alcantara gorge. Our tour guide was a geologist who was also a local politician. Really fun day, hike was of moderate difficulty. My husband has a heart condition and could not manage the hike but he stayed with the jeep while we did the most arduous part of the hike. He was able to participate during the portion of the hike which involved spelunking into a lava tube underground.

Leely2

Your itinerary looks great to me. You will actually have (some) time to relax. One question: can you not depart from Palermo?

RCLCOLPB

Thanks, everyone. Re the duplicate thread that I inadvertently started,the moderator cannot consolidate them but will delete the superseded thread. On that thread, Mimar made the same suggestion as Leely2 re flying back from Palermo. I agree that it would make more sense to fly back from Palermo, but we are on frequent flyer and it would cost $150 for each of us to change the return flight. But perhaps it would be worth it to avoid that rather wasted day?

I also have come up with one additional question: Is it safe to leave luggage in a car trunk at Villa Romana? If not, should we come in from Modica the evening before and stay near Villa Romana so we can leave our luggage at the B&B/Agriturismo?

Len

annhig

there was a recent thread where the OP's car was robbed, I think in a car park in Ortigia, when they had put the luggage in the boot [trunk] but the thieves forced the car doors open.

so definitely leave the car at the B&B.

RCLCOLPB

Thanks, annhig. Yes, that post re theft in a car park was certainly scary. The problem is that with the itinerary as I proposed it in my OP, we would be staying in Modica and driving to Agrigento via a top at Villa Romana, so we would not have a B&B to leave the luggage at without considerable backtracking. Should we change the itinerary to drive to someplace near Villa Romana the evening before?

annhig

difficult question to answer, so be honest, RC.

perhaps there are people here who can advise whether it's safe to leave a car with luggage in the car park at Agrigento - possibly the car park there will be better guarded than the Villa Romana.

Mimar

It's up to you whether it's worth it to change your departure from Palermo instead of Catania. How much does the bus to Catania cost?When does the flight leave from Palermo? How much is that extra day worth to you?

I seem to remember the parking lot at the Villa Romana was guarded. I don't remember a guard at Agrigento, but that lot was busier. If you can park backing up to a wall or a fence, you make it hard to get into your trunk.

We had a memorable lunch sitting outside at the restaurant La Ruota, just down the road from the Villa Romana

kja

Unfornately, I skipped Trapani and Erice, so I can't speak to them. I was glad to see Segesta.

It doesn't look to me like you have much time for Palermo. I gave it only 2.5 days, and did NOT see everything I would have liked to see there. YMMV.

"This itinerary does not include going to Aeolian or Egadi Islands. Do you think that is a mistake? ... This itinerary does not include a visit to Mt. Etna.... Do you think that would be a big mistake?"

Depends on your interests! You can NOT see everything wonderful Sicily offers in "just" 15 days ;-), so there really are no right or wrong answers here. You will have a wonderful time no matter what you choose.

"Do you think we would be better off picking up the rental car at Catania Airport and driving to Taormina and then to Siracusa, rather than picking up the car in Siracusa?"

No!!! A car will be a liability in Taormina and Siracusa.

"we are on frequent flyer and it would cost $150 for each of us to change the return flight. But perhaps it would be worth it to avoid that rather wasted day?"

I would find the day well worth that cost. YMMV.

Hope that helps!

thursdaysd

Agree that you don't want a car in Taormina or Ortigia. And the more time in Ortigia the better.

I visited the Egadi islands but not the Aeolian. I was bored on the Egadi islands, I think the Aeolian are livelier. I thought Etna was a waste of time.

I enjoyed staying in both Trapani and Erice, but I had more time than you do.

If there are two of you, could one stay with the car while the other visits the Villa Romana?

kja

I only rarely do so, but I'll disagree with thursdaysd on Mt. Etna -- but then, I'd never been to the top of a volcano before, and I was there within a week of a minor eruption. I found it a fascinating encounter with the "living earth" -- although it was cold and almost painfully windy (thank goodness I had protective eyeglasses and ear muffs!) and covered with snow (melting from below), I could feel the heat through my thick soled shoes. Too, I enjoyed seeing the Gole Alcantara, which was part of the tour I took to Mt. Etna. That doesn't mean that I'm saying to visit it -- again, I think it depends on your priorities.

I don't travel for relaxation, so my 3 hours on Lipari, and a subsequent ferry ride past some of the other Aeolians (on my way to Naples), were more than island enough for me. I can't speak for your interests!

While visiting the Villa Romana, I parked my car, which held my luggage (discretely), in a lot with an attendant. I had no trouble, but of course, that's no guarantee of what will happen to you or anyone else.

Dayle

Hi R,

Your plan is very similar to my trip except that I had more time and the Aeolians were a prioritiy for me (long time dream). I put them at the end of the trip since I was going very early season.

Train between Taormina and Siracusa station was very easy. Agree with others that you don't want a car in either location. I booked thru Autoeurope, picked up in Trapani and dropped on Ortigia. Very easy.

I had the same amount of time on Ortigia and would have liked at least 1 more day. There is much to see and enjoy. Beautiful, fascinating place.

If it matters to you, La Foresteria Planeta Estate is out in the countryside surrounded by their vineyards and has views of the sea if you take a garden level room (recommend). Staying here in early fall should not be an issue unless your main objective is beach time and it doesn't sound like that is the plan. Villa Sogno is on the main road to the Selinute site. I saw it as I passed. It looks like a nice old estate house, but I liked the location of La Foresteria much more.

Since you are going on to Palermo, don't do Erice and Segesta as a daytrip from Menfi/Selinute. Why backtrack? Drive on to Erice and stay there. It's very atmospheric at night and worth spending time. There is much to see and it's worth more than a couple hours and lunch!
Segesta is about a good 2 hour visit. Gorgeous views and my favorite pics of the entire trip are from here. They are handing in my house now.

One my of top priorities for Sicily was enjoying a villa on the Aeolians, so I planned for 5 nights on Lipari. I wish I had 2 more nights to allow for more island visits and relaxing both. Since I had this "down time" on Lipari as well as an overnight at Scopello, I passed on Cefalu.

I did enjoy a short visit to Vendicari. It was fun to see the pale pink Flamingos because I had only seen them in zoos before. The preserve also has some nice beaches.

I planned my trip so I didn't have luggage in my car in a parking lot. Twice I had my lodging hold my luggage after check out and I came back to get it after the visit. Valle dei Templi and Villa Romana.

I did take a risk and visited Vendicari and Catalgirone with luggage in the car. I paid an "addendant" at Vendicari and parked for free at a legitimate parking structure at Catalgione. I took everything of real value with me and left only clothes in the car. No problems.

I had several 1 nt stays on my trip partly due to luggage security strategy and because I prefer to travel efficiently without a lot of backtracking. The "base and daytrip" strategy is not my preference unless the daytrips are less than 1 hour each way. I travel light, never completedly unpack (why?) and can check in/out in 10 minutes. Just my style and I think this style works very well for Sicily, where there is so much to see and a lot of distance between.

I hope this helps a bit. Understanding others' decision making process can help with your's! The posters above all inspired my own trip and I will thank them again now!

Buon viaggio

RCLCOLPB

Based on all of the valuable feedback in response to my questions, and the suggestions in the trip reports by many of you, I have revised the itinerary as follows and included preliminary selected hotels. Any critique or suggestions?

Saturday: Arrive at Catania airport from U.S. (via Paris and Rome) at 4 PM. Go to Taormina for the night via car service. Hotel Taodomus.

Sunday: Taormina

Monday: Travel to Ortigia by train; stay in Ortigia, B&B La Via Della Guidecca, sea view room (is sea view worth the extra money?).

Tuesday: Ortigia; possibly take train or bus to Noto to visit it at sunset and in evening, returning to Ortigia to sleep

Wednesday: Ortigia in morning; pick up rental car in afternoon and drive to hotel in Modica, Pallazzo de Failla

Thursday: Day trip to Noto (if have not gone there already) and perhaps Vendicari and Ragusa; stay in Modica

Friday: Morning trip to Ragusa if did not go there on Thursday; return to hotel in Modica to get luggage; drive to hotel in Piazza Armerina, Villa Clementine; if there early enough, drop off luggage and visit Enna.

Saturday: visit Villa Romana; return to hotel to get luggage; drive to Agrigento; stop in Enna if didn’t go there on Friday and take turns with wife walking around. Fattoria Mose. See temples lit up in Agrigento.

Sunday: Visit temples in Agrigento; then drive to Selinunte. Use that as base for day trip on following day. Stay at Villa Sogno.

Monday: Day trip to Selinunte archeological site, Mazara, Sciacca (?); stay in Selinunte (Villa Sogno).

Tuesday: Drive to hotel in Erice, Erice Pietre Antiche, and leave luggage; Trapani and Segesta.

Wednesday: Walk around Erice; drive to Palermo Airport and drop off rental car; bus to Palermo, Palazzo Pantaleo.

Thursday: Palermo, including Monreale

Friday: train to Cefalu for half day, stay in Palermo

Saturday: SAIS bus from Palermo to Catania (time TBD); stay at Hotel Biscari

Sunday: depart for U.S. from Catania airport (6:15 AM!); Hotel Biscari said their reception is open 24 hours and they will call taxi for us.

Thanks!

Len

Leely2

If you like fancy food, Ristorante La Gazza Ladra is in your hotel in Modica. We had a long, decadent lunch there. Just FYI in case you feel like splurging.

Enjoy your trip!