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Old Oct 22nd, 2013, 10:47 PM
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help me ballpark a UK trip span? need to book soon.

Hello all! Am under flight booking time constraints, so hoping for some initial impressions/advice on how long my July/August 2014 trip needs to be to encompass the places I want to dip my toe into, as gleaned from my research thus far. (Sorry this is so long, but trying to provide any needed background info along with my questions).

Sky's not totally the limit; aiming for 4 to 6 weeks, I suppose (?) I hope to use a combo of train and car - am traveling alone and I prefer someone else drive so I can look out the window, but am happy to spring for a car in places w/ tricky public transport. May also bring along a cute folding bicycle for a little local pedal fun. I'd like to include some easy to moderate bikes/hikes (or walks) on a handful of days.

Other pertinent points:
- Cannot fly open jaw - must go in and out of Gatwick - and thought I'd save London til the end of my trip.
- Years ago I did many of the major London sights with a school group so I can skip some biggies like the Tower and changing of the guard.
- In general, I have more interest in lively pubs with friendly locals, lovely landscapes, tasty food, and wandering in cute villages than, say, Windsor Castle or the National Portrait Gallery. At least one amazing big house is a must (Blenheim?) but I don't need to see every National Trust estate I pass near. Same with awesome gardens/grounds and staggering cathedrals - 2 or 3 is good; 5 or 6 will start to all blend together for me. Landscape-wise I'd like to hit one or two windswept desolate areas - beyond that, I'd prefer my vistas with nice trees or mountains and rivers or lakes, or flowers and thatch! On the other hand, countless cute towns are FINE, as is loitering at places good for picnicking and checking out animal-related things (livestock fairs, sheepdog trials - heck, even sleepy cats in shop windows).
- Finally, I *am* one of those people who is fine with ambitious schedules. I visit places I love on successive trips and plant myself down for a leisurely stay at THAT point. But I realize transit will take time and don't want the WHOLE trip to be pell-mell.

So! Here is my very rough preliminary wish list, in totally no particular order:

1. Bath - use as base for Avebury/Stonehenge, Salisbury, Wilton House, Stourhead. Can I see Tintern Abbey from here too? Is Glastonbury worth a visit?
2. Cotswolds. Chipping Camden, Stow on Wold, Blenheim. Want to spend time in Oxford too - perhaps base myself there and foray out to the above? This sounds like perhaps a car area.
3. A taste of Wales. Conwy, Caenarfon.
4. Lake District. (Possibly some Peak District too? See, I feel like that is too much to squeeze in if I'm not even certain yet what's there!) I could be tempted by some Pemberly action (Chatsworth House/Lyme Park) but not if it's far off an otherwise logical path OR, if say, Blenheim (for example) is just tops in the fancy house category and will suffice. Also, this is another car area, no?? Jeez..
5. York.
6. Edinburgh.
7. Some Scottish Highlandy-y (and island-y) places. I gather Inverness and Loch Ness are 'meh' - do I need a loch replacement plan, or are they just all over? And as for getting a bit coastal, I'm not sure if I should aim up for Skye, or if Mull/Oban/Iona will be easier to reach but similar. AND this looks like STILL another car area, but not sure if I could/should do a one way rent to be efficient, and if so, where to do my rental[s] from - wasn't getting good search results experimenting online. Complicating factor: there are highland games on Skye or near Stirling in early August. I'd *love* to see some caber tossing action while in Scotland (obviously!), but those dates are getting toward the possible end of my trip, and honestly, I was trying to stay faaaar away from Edinburgh when Fringe/Int'l Fests occur. Was actually considering starting the trip from up there (overnight train from London on arrival day, maybe?) and working my way back down. But then I miss seeing the games.
8. Min one distillery. Not an aficionado so it doesn't matter much which one, but I've had and liked some peaty whiskys before and would like to check an operation out.
8. Wind up in London. Required days there tbd.

So.... any immediate thoughts/gasps/howls of concern/flashes of brilliant strategizing? Many thanks in advance!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2013, 11:55 PM
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Yorkshire just about satisfies all your needs as listed. West Yorkshire has a very well developed train system supported by high density of bus routes. North Yorkshire is less well supplied by bus routes and may require some car hire to get to the better places. South Yorkshire, has public transport to the few places one would want to go to.

The County Fairs (and some ancient town based farm fairs) will satisfy much of your need for seeing sheep, bunnies etc.

Your list with 4 to 6 weeks makes sense. Edinburgh in the Festival needs booking early (now would do) or should be avoided.

August is high season.
1) yes
2) yes
4) really walking and bike would be best once you get there by train. However, many people do use cars to tour the area which in August makes for long queues.
8) seeing a distillery is "meh" all you will see is possibly a malting floor (not many still extant), some barrels, some coppers and pipes. Once you have a taste of their cheaper stuff you then get hit with the expensive "special" whisky hard sell.
http://www.englishwhisky.co.uk/ and http://www.welsh-whisky.co.uk/ offer you a chance to stay south of the border
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 12:03 AM
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On arrival at Gatwick catch a flight to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen or Inverness with easyjet.com and work your way south. Saves backtracking.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 01:00 AM
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"The County Fairs (and some ancient town based farm fairs) will satisfy much of your need for seeing sheep, bunnies etc"

I'm struggling to think of a single annual agricultural show in England that calls itself a County Fair: a transatlantic neologism that's usually been back-borrowed in England either for commercial trivia ("the traditional Borsetshire Mobile Phone Fair - now in its third year") or for local Game Fairs. Obviously all Game Fairs are bunny-free, though utterly awash with spaniels, so not too many sheep turn up either.

Practically to the last warm beer tent, Farmers's Ordinary and prize marrow contest, they're all called the "xxx Show", and that's how you find them on google.

A sample list is at http://www.northyorkshire.org/shows.php , but there'll be similar lists throughout the country. Few overseas visitors ever bother to turn up, thank God (ours is chocker enough as it is): they can't begin to imagine what they're missing.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 04:13 AM
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I am not sure that you will find too many agricultural-based fairs in July and August, since that is a busy time of year for farmers, and their needs still determine the calendar. It is some years since I went to the Bath & West Show (www.bathandwest.com), and that is held at the end of May, but my impression is of people selling rural clothing, reclining chairs and other such country desirables.

The end of August sees the Great Dorset Steam Fair (www.gdsf.co.uk/) which may appeal, or in early May you might consider the Badminton Horse Trials (www.badminton-horse.co.uk/). Both of these will also feature the waterproof clothing and recliner chairs, and whatever the latest fad is (in rural British terms), with the added attraction of brass nameplates and horse blankets.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 05:02 AM
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http://www.ukcountyshows.co.uk/ (sic!)
http://www.stackyard.com/orgs/agricu...ows/dates.html

should give you some ideas, chartley describes a fair bit of a show you will also have the chance to see a wide range of sheep, cattle, goats, bunnies, chickens etc etc, plus the locals horse jumping, motor bike riding.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 06:06 AM
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" It is some years since I went to the Bath & West Show (www.bathandwest.com), and that is held at the end of May, but my impression is of people selling rural clothing"

There ARE country shows like that. But the North Cotswold one (http://www.moretonshow.co.uk/ ), which is our local do, devotes far more acreage to livestock parades, poultry contests, low-key showjumping and all the traditional fun as to the designer cheese, reclining chairs and faux-Barbour jacket stalls that come out like a rash at every temporary event in Britain these days. My limited experience of agriculture elsewhere is that most other shows on the County Show site are similar

As a rough generalisation:
- the word "Fair" in a show's title guarantees a huge proportion of the event is stalls selling stuff you don't want but can't believe how many other people do
- I share chartley's suspicion of events in July and August: but there's an awful lot of legitimate-looking shows on the North Yorks site then, and I can only assume winter sets in early up there, or it's so unfertile, the farmers have done all their harvesting by July
- I've yet to stumble over a bastardised sheepdog or ploughing trial. To be honest, I've yet to find so much as a beer tent at most sheepdog trials: the retail content usually amounts to a greasy spoon bacon sarnie van with a cup of tea if you ask nicely.

Follow the links for England at the International Sheep Dog Society http://www.isds.org.uk/trials/index.html. July/Aug isn't a particularly busy time for most shepherds.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 06:36 AM
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Edinburgh has 450K residents and in August has over 1.25M visitors. Book now.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 07:20 AM
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Great, thanks! Ok, perhaps I'll just make a point to sample a bunch of whisky on its home turf rather than hit a distillery.

Any other votes on the timeline/time required, which is the main thing I need to decide now?

To simplify, let's leave aside the games issue for the moment and entirely forget any agricultural fairs. I apologize for apparently phrasing my mention of critter-interest poorly: sure, I like animals, but that's not in *any way* a factor to arrange the trip around. Constructing a workable time span (and eventually, order) of my locations 'wish list' with minimal to no backtracking and avoiding Edinburgh fest-furor is the unquestioned priority. Watching heavy events with local Scots will have to be relegated to the "nice if I can swing it, but skippable" list, I'm afraid.

If starting in Scotland seemed wise, I did originally figure on an easyJet hop up there from Gatwick, but a flight delay out of the US could easily torpedo my connection, and to my mind, adequate buffer time to cover recouping my bike, clearing passport control & customs, checking back IN for the Edinburgh flight and rechecking my bike, *plus* a possible modest flight delay would require at least 5 hours. (Unless easyJet will simply obligingly stick me on the next Edinburgh flight, if I miss my booking). Sounded like torture to lurk around the airport that long following a transatlantic trip; I figured it'd be nicer to get moving out in the sunlight for the day and then just crash out like a log on a night train.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 08:09 AM
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>>Ok, perhaps I'll just make a point to sample a bunch of whisky on its home turf rather than hit a distillery.<<

Don't let one person put you off. Distilleries, especially if you've never been to one, are well worth a visit. You normally pay a fee for a 30-40 minute tour and a tasting at the end. I've visited maybe 20+ distilleries and never at all been given a "hard sell" to buy anything, though I often have chosen to.

>>Watching heavy events with local Scots will have to be relegated to the "nice if I can swing it, but skippable" list, I'm afraid. <<

Might I ask why? Going to a Highland Games can be a highlight of a trip to Scotland. The whole of the local communinity from wee bairns to grannies gets involved and there's plenty of great photo opportunities (often the scenery provides a great backdrop). July/August is the height of the annual Games calendar, and most places from small towns upwards will have their own Games. All the details are on:-
http://www.shga.co.uk/index.php
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 08:17 AM
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(Unless easyJet will simply obligingly stick me on the next Edinburgh flight, if I miss my booking)

never going to happen
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 09:05 AM
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Saw some highland games near Lochcarron in the 3rd or 4th week of July a year or so back just as I was arriving, so that might fit both your desire for somewhere a bit more picturesque up north and some caber tossing, but without falling foul of Fringe season in August. That whole area - Applecross, Torridon, Skye is really lovely. TR on here under my name if you are interested.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 10:12 AM
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Right Bilbo! Hence I figured: overnite train vs. trying to time an in-UK flight. If I arrive at 9am as scheduled, I have 12 whole hours to buffer any flight delays and get to Euston. Ideally will store bag(s) and do a tiny bit of light exploring before hitting train.

Gordon, game attendance will be so super IF it can be comfortably adapted to the 'when and where' of my plans. At this stage, I was primarily hoping for guidance on my overall schedule while I still have flexibility for people to say, "You need five weeks for that plan!!" (as is so often the case with itinerary feedback, heh).

But to answer your question: my primary Scotland interest is Edinburgh (followed by Highland driving/coastal stay in locations t.b.d), and I want to be well gone before August crazytime, so it makes sense to kick off my trip in EDI when I arrive in the UK on 11 July. My initial research showed games at or near my expected route (Skye, Stirling) occur at the wrong end of the trip (early Aug). St. Andrews (late July) is possibly doable if I forego a linear plan (i.e., roughly top to bottom of the island) but right now it looks like I'd need games that fall the week of July 14 – 18.

Thank you RM! Going thru TR now. Pics are gorgeous.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 10:55 AM
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Okay, first draft itinerary – what trouble points do you see? (not sure if I should separate this onto new thread, but will keep here for now).

- 11 July: arrive Gatwick; transfer to Edinburgh via sleeper train.
- 12 July to 15th or 16th: Edinburgh
- Very vague on this bit, but after Edinburgh, am allocating 4 days/night total to a drive thru highlands (figure one day & night going in, one day & night coming out) plus a 2 night stay in Skye. No idea what would be good car pick-up/dropoff points or overnight stops. I’d *like* to then return the car on 20th and grab a train to Keswick-ish region, but that’s also a Sunday (rental places closed, no?)
- Let’s just assume I made it to the north Lake District on 20 July. Spend the next two days walking (biking?) around.
- 23 July: transfer via train, bus (?) to North Wales. Conwy, Caenarfon.
- 26 July: train to Oxford. Explore Ox and from here, visit a couple Cotswold towns (via bus? bike?) and take a day trip to Blenheim.
- 31 July: train to Bath. Maybe rent a car again here? Day trip to Glastonbury/Stourhead; another to Tintern Abbey; a third to Stonehenge/Avebury/Salisbury/Wilton (have already seen the rock portions of that and been to Bath as well, but would not mind refreshing my memory).
- 5 August: transfer to London.
- 9 London: depart Gatwick 5pm.

The London portion gets a bit tight – I’d like to find an additional day to spend there, but dratted Sundays and their limited transit options/car rental returns snarl things. Also, my next departure flight option after the 9th is like, 6 days later. That’s maybe a bit too much, especially in such an expensive city. Maybe forego Skye/highlands after Edinburgh and instead focus on area of Loch Lomond and Oban/Mull? Could I then reduce the four days plus car rental I planned to allocate to three days on just public transport?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 10:59 AM
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Rats! I totally forgot about York. Hmm - that's sort of out there on it's own - I guess going there when leaving the Lake District is the most logical way to do it, right? Then onto north Wales?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2013, 11:58 AM
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Apologies, not got time to read all through the thread so you many have discounted this, but many people visit York on their way from London to Edinburgh.
London King's Cross to York is a very regular service - some trains are faster than others as they only stop once or twice, but you can do it in an hour and three quarters.
You won't need a car in York itself as it is compact and walkable (don't bother with a bicycle there either).
But if you want to explore the beautiful Yorkshire countryside then I would definitely hire a car. Public transport in the more rural areas can be slow, patchy or just plain non existent.
You have two national parks within easy reach (North Yorks Moors and Yorkshire Dales).
Once you have spent some time in York/surrounds you can catch the train up to Edinburgh - again a regular, direct route with some very nice countryside to travel through - the line hugs the coast in places.
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Old Oct 24th, 2013, 04:09 AM
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Just a couple of quick comments:

1) don't take the sleeper. Take an earlier train to York and stay at least one night there. Then train on to Edinburgh and the rest of your itinerary.

2) I'd definitely leave the bike home. You will be lugging it everywhere with you and seldom e be in places you can ride it. If you insist on riding - then just rent a bike now and then for a day.
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Old Oct 24th, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Ah, thank you Morgana and Janis! Very smart solution to make York my first stop after arriving and THEN head to Scotland. It just seemed efficient to pay roughly the same ticket price for a pre-booked sleeper to the very top of G.B. as for a flexible off-peak 'normal seat' to York.... plus tidily take care of that night's accommodation to boot.

That's very helpful feedback on the bike; I have been scouring a huge heap of guidebooks trying to determine just how many places I *could* safely ride on a non-mountain bike. (So far, it seems the Cotswolds/Oxford would be the best place for this). I'm just a casual cyclist, but it is my favorite way to putter around a new place when possible.

The Brompton cycle does fold down quite small (it fits in overhead airplane compartments), but it's still close to 30 pounds of weight to haul around, and I have been concerned trying to imagine schlepping it onto and off of the numerous trains (or buses) I'd be taking. It's not like I'm going to the Netherlands where everyone zooms around on bikes: in that case, the aggravation of bringing my own for a month-ish long trip might be worth it.
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Old Oct 24th, 2013, 01:02 PM
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I like to ride a bike, but the UK is not very bike friendly. The areas around the lake district have enough off-road to enjoy and a Brompton is more than capable of the odd trip off road. But unless you have a real love of bikes I'd leave it.

Bilbo
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Old Oct 24th, 2013, 09:27 PM
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Ah Bilbo - a sad irony that the motherland of Bromptons is not so great for actually using one, eh? It stands to reason, though, that if a place I visit *is* good for biking, some enterprising individual will surely be renting them out. I will console myself with that thought!
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