Glad to haved helped with your planning and ready to ride along on your journey!

Wax on as much as you would like - looking forward to hearing about the trip!

I love love love Venice, and am excited to read your trip report...I only hope it lives up to your dreams!

I may not have had the dreams but I am so excited to get to go to one of the places I have always imagined. I cannot believe I am going in June of 2013! Please write and describe ALL you want and know that many of us will be reading. I can't wait!

Well, I know now I will not have the vocabulary to describe all of this. I should have brushed up on my superlatives. We arrived on schedule today around 1:00. A little disappointed to see the rain had not cleared as predicted. But hey - if you're going to be rained on a little - why not in Venice?

Sidny- no worries on this living up to my dreams! I have poured over pictures and videos ad infinitum, but nothing can match that first glimpse of the palazzos on your first ride down the canal. One thing pictures cannot do justice to are the textures. The grill work, the aging brick - oh, man - I wanted to touch it- run my hands across it...

After arrival and claiming bags, we picked up a water taxi to the hotel. I know this was probably a splurge we didn't need to make, but I so much wanted that drive through the lagoon, "top down" so to speak. (The boat's, not mine!) The rain detracted a little, but it sure was fast and painless... and what fun to step up out of the boat, greeted by the very kind and helpful staff member (in this case, Steven.) After check-in he gave a brief tour of the hotel common areas, and this is where I first found myself stumped for any adequate superlatives. I mean, how often can you respond with "Wow" and leave the impression you've done anything past ninth grade? Let me just say this: While we're not seasoned world travelers by any means, we have had the good fortune of taking a couple trips to Europe prior to this one. I have read what I could, and even taken the virtual tour from the hotel's website. Sneaked in a peak at the webcam from my desk at work whenever I could. Still, with all that, stepping through the doors of the piano nobile, with its frescos, terrazzo floors and glass chandeliers, it's pretty hard not to come off like Jethro and Ellie Mae the first time they laid eyes on the cee-ment pond! But that's me, and I've learned to embrace it

The hours of flight yesterday along with the time change were catching up to us. I had hoped to head out walking, and maybe in sunshine we would have, but the weather made it easy to choose a little nap instead. That turned out to be just what we needed, and when we woke maybe a couple hours later to the sound of a siren heading up the canal, the rain had cleared. Church bells were sounding 6:00 as we stepped outside, and I think that's when it hit me - I'm here! Just in time for us to walk next door and pick up the vaporetto (I had purchase passes online, and we printed out the tickets at the airport while waiting for baggage.)

Just before dusk we grabbed #1 and headed in the direction of St. Marks. We were enjoying our seats in the open back of the bus, taking pictures with the last available light and sharing the experience with a fellow traveler equally enthralled-a young lady from perhaps an Eastern European country-and trading the picture-taking favors of her with one back drop, and us with the next. So immersed, we missed our stop by one or two stops, and ended up walking back to St. Mark's - I think from Giardino.

We stopped for a drink at Harry's bar - hoping to see some literary ghosts. We saw none, but enjoyed our drinks and the people-watching show. Nothing had really started yet in St. Marks, and it seemed a little chilly to enjoy outdoor drinks, so we headed back to our own neighborhood.

We enjoyed a very nice dinner at Vini da Gigio, just a block or so from our hotel. Nothing over the top fantastic, but everything very good, and a perfect welcome dinner. We shared the "specialties of Venice" antipasta. My dear one had the spaghetti con seppie. I passed on the primo, knowing I would sneak a few bites of the seppie. I chose the fegato (yum!) and knowing how much he likes fish and chips, I suggested the frito misto for DH. He said this was fish n chips to the 10th power.

Whew, what a day. Let's see what this magical place holds for us tomorrow. Buona notte.

Venice is so gorgeous, isn't it? It's the first "real" European city I ever went to and it did not disappoint. I loved sitting at the cafes on San Marco square (even with all the pigeons).

I would love to go back with my husband, who has not been there. And, I am such a better, smarter traveler thanks to the forum!

Can't wait to read more!

Hanabilly: anxious to hear more of your "newbie" trip to Venice. Your writing is very colorful, and I for one will read your report happily. It will be fun to see it through your eyes.

Please keep up with the details, it is so enjoyable to hear about a first time trip by someone who APPRECIATES it.

I second Tarquin.

Okay,I'm back again. We had a couple busy days (big surprise) and now I have some time as we relax and rest our feet before dinner. Speaking of resting the feet - let me back up a little and give you just a little of the back story. You already know that I've long dreamed of Venice. I booked this trip when I was off work immobilized for 3 months after foot surgery. See what too much idle time does? So, now I'm about 7.5 months after surgery, and I had hoped I'd be further along in the recovery...gurrr. I am walking, but still have some discomfort and weakness. Plus, the other foot is hurting from compensating, and the opposite knee as well. So, I've got two bad wheels and a bum knee...what would that be in the automotive analogy? I tell you that not to squeeze out any pity from you (though I would't be above that) but to help set the scene a little - explain why we take a 40 min. vaporetto ride for what might have been a 15 min. walk, and also why it might take us longer to get where we're going, and run out of gas a little sooner.

I had a daily schedule of things I wanted to do, planned (I thought) for the optimal day of our visit. But with heavy rain forecast later in the week, I decided to try to do more of the "outside" things earlier on, and save museums for the rainy days. Plus, my husband has a cousin who was stationed in Aviano, and married and stayed here after he was out of the service. We got in touch with him, and we will be training up to Pordenone tomorrow to spend the day with him and his wife. Never pass up a local tour guide!

Yesterday after very nice breakfast at the hotel, we headed up to Fondemente Nove, planning to catch a vaporetto to St. Pietro. I don't know if we were at the wrong place or if we just didn't wait long enough, but nothing for that route showed up. So on to plan B. We had a beatiful and leisurely stroll through that part of Cannaregio. Stepped into Gesuiti after trying to capture its exterior in pictures - very tricky. Thanks to your trip reports I kept an eye our for the "curtains". Unable to take interior photos, I was wishing I could record what I was seeing in my brain - so beautiful! I loved walking through this neighborhood, with young moms with strollers, women with their little grocery carts. Service workers picking up trash with hand carts. "Attenzione! Attenzione!" as the young man cleared a path for his FULL cartload of bottled water at full speed. YIKES!

We made it back to Ca d'Oro, and headed by vaporetto towards St. Mark's. We'll go inside later in the week, but just spent a little time taking outside pictures, and trying not to be trapped amongst the group tours. I had made lunch reservations at Il Ridotto for 1:30. At about 12:30 we decided to head in that direction, thinking it would take awhile to find. I knew the general direction and area, but realized I hadn't brought the address, or even that name of the campo with me. Just as DH was starting to type the name into his Nexxus, I looked up from where we were standing and said, "Look, there it is!" We were about 12 feet from it! The most amazing places might be hiding behind a very non-descript store front. We had a very long, relaxing and delicious lunch. We each had an antipasto, and risotto (as two persons are minimum order.) The risotto was just beautiful. Zucchini, basil, & scallop coral. Do we even have scallop coral? I wanted to order risotto as much as I can while I'm here, as I've never mastered it, and hope to learn by osmosis. Well, clearly I've been doing it all wrong...but I'll study as much as I can this week!

Ack! I can't believe you are FINALLY there. I am living vicariously through you right now. No pressure. If anyone can appreciate and do justice to Venice in words it is you.

Your report reminds me of my former attitude toward Venice. I lived in Germany on a U.S. Army base and I traveled a lot. I'd gone to Rome and Florence but never to Venice. I thought it would be jammed with tourists and....I just had no desire to see it.

But then my sister and I began our seven years of yearly travel, and she wanted to go to Venice. When I stepped out on St. Mark's Square, I was stunned! It was so beautiful, so magical. I especially loved the view across the water to the church of San Giorgio. What a wonderful place.

Really enjoying your enthusiastic report - I've been looking forward to reading it ever since you made those nice comments on my report about our visit to Northern Italy last May. Isn't Venice just wonderful?? Sorry about the rain but it sounds like you are enjoying it anyway. LOL about the "top down" comment. Your writing brings back all of our wonderful Venice memories. Thanks for writing it and I can't wait to read more!

Thanks for the replies, all! Boy, to anyone who can keep up with a daily trip report while here, I have new admiration for you. i am so behind, and will try to catch up a little, but will flesh out the details when I'm home.

After our wonderful lunch on Thursday, we took a vaporetto across Giudecca canal to Redentore. Again, I have no words. Well, some, but I will have to make more notes in these awe-inspiring churches where the "no photo" sign must be respected. I'm not beyond breaking the rules from time to time, but not there- I would hate to imagine the consequences. At Redentore we purchase chorus passes for E10 each. I hope we will get a chance to use them enough to pay for them, but if not, I am happy to support the upkeep of these buildings and all the art they hold. They are a gift to the world,and I am so grateful they have been preserved all this time!

From Redentore we picked up the vap to San Giorgio, and wandered around looking for the entrance to the Campanille, until we realized you have to enter through the church. It was like searching for a key in an old video game. So, we found it, and purchase the 5E elevator ride to the top. We had a short wait in line, with just 6 in the elevator at once. (Hint: there is a restroom just next to the line for the elevator.) What a view from this tower! Just incredible to look down at the canal traffic, and the ants crawling about St. Mark's. To all the photographers - this might be one place where you might be better off taking mid-day shots, as we could really only shoot to the east, with the western sun directly at us at 4:30. Morning would be a beautiful time as well.

After some time at the campanille, we descended and headed again for the vaporetto. Eager to see anything as a "good sign" we were once again delighted when the route we wanted arrived just as we did at the stop. From St. Giorgio we headed back toward Piazze le Roma, and on to our hotel. DH and I don't agree on everything, of course, but one thing we do agree on, is any trip across water is a good one, and any destination that requires arrival from across the water is worth the effort. So, this late afternoon trip along the southern side of Venice was such a treat! It was getting a little chillier, which felt good, seated out on the bow of the vaporetto. Ed - my DH- was scolded by the vaporetto pilot (the only female driver we saw) for standing in front of her window and he quickly plopped into his seat - I wish I could get that kind of response from him - that girl carried some authority!
The ride past the more modern and commercial side of of the island was interesting- how easy to forget that we are in the 21st century, with all the machinations for supporting our life style tucked away in just this area.

I had thought that this boat would take us back to Ca d'Oro, but it didn't stop at every stop - instead we got off at Rialto and made our way through the crowded maze back to Strada Nuovo. We stopped at Gelateria Ca d'Oro for a gelato, and called it dinner.

I watched the gondolieri tuck away some of their boats for the evening, and listened for awhile to the sounds of the passegiata. Too bushed to boogy anymore, I think we both konked out a little after 8:00!

Friday 10/12
Even with the early nigh last night, we got a late start this morning. Is it still jet lag, or are we just getting old? It must be jet lag.

After another very nice breakfast with the most gracious servers ever (I promise to show you pictures of the breakfast room - incredible!) we head towards Fondamente Nove once again. The sun had been shining earlier, but just as we headed out, a little rain started. Almost deterred, we decided to just open the umbrellas and go for it, and so glad we did. This little bit of rain, and a few minutes of a very light drizzle is all we encountered for the day.

We took the vaporetto towards Burano, and on to Torcello, for a little respite from the crowds and also for perhaps one of the greatest thrills of our trip so far! The walk along the little canal from the vaporetto stop was so pleasant, and enhanced by one enterprising gentleman entertaining us with accordion. We didn't have any coins, and I hoped he would still be there on our return, as I really did appreciate him adding a sound track to our stroll.

Though far plainer, the church at Torcello amazes me even more than any we've visited so far. I am struck speechless, and just cannot fathom the HUNDREDS of years it has stood there. Ed said something about the history these walls hold, and I couldn't help think of the scandal and heartbreak they've seen as well. And the mosaics! We had gone into Harry's bar the other night, hoping to find some literary ghosts, but here in Torcello is where I found them. I thought of the workers - the artist's apprentices, perhaps? Painstakingly creating this wall of beauty 1/4 inch at a time. Wedged into some tiny space in the scaffolding for hours at a time - without the benefit of iboprofen! And here we are, trying to visually drink it all in, centuries later. Whoever you were, thank you.

Enjoying your perspectives...sounds like a great trip! We are all getting older aren't we....all those beautiful sights do help improve the jet lag, don't they?

Yes, Denise, a very great trip so far and I feel so fortunate!

The weather has really been quite kind to us, and the heavy rains that were forecast have been nothing more than a drizzle or a sprinkle from time to time. Today is our fifth and last full day here, and I am feeling that sense of panic of what I still want to see and visit. The only way to calm that feeling is to know with certainty I'll be back.

You certainly made the most of your time in Venice. I'm sure your pictures will be amazing. Even though your moving on to the next part of your trip, I know Venice will never leave you!

I know what you mean...I have teared up a few times in certain places when it was time to go. It's been years and years since Venice for me, but I am starting to feel that it won't be too much longer before I make it back to Venice. I truly only envy those who can afford to travel more often than we can. It is truly one of life's great pleasures. I look forward to reading more from your travels!

Thanks for staying tuned. Time slips by - still days to fill in on Venice, and now we are already in Bologna after a beautiful train ride through the countryside. Garden after garden - what a treat. The day was absolutely stunning in Venice - the first sunny day, and maybe 65 degrees. For our farewell lunch we enjoyed a light pasta and proseco out on the terrace of our hotel, facing the canal...could have stayed there for hours.

Back to Friday 10/12
After our quiet stroll back to the vaporetto we had a short wait for the shuttle back to Burano. We walked along some of the canals as the sun began to show itself and we went in search of someplace nice for lunch. I was a little surprised to see "restaurant row" on Burano. You never see that in the photos of this little island, making it easy to imagine it is only the colorful little houses and a deserted bridge or two. We walked past all the restaurants with the hawkers out front trying to bring us in, and we found Da Romano. I had read of this restaurant - mostly good reports, and I had hoped to eat here or at Ghatto Nero. It was getting towards the end of lunchtime,and we were able to get a table outdoors without a reservation. Our waiter spoke some English, and very graciously corrected my pronunciation on the very little Italian I tried. I noticed he was left-handed and indicated that I was too, and we high-fived to that.

After lunch, we enjoyed photographing some of the delightful houses, and watching the children heading home from school maneuver around the tourists-bikes, soccer balls, and all- this is just part of their daily life. The ferry ride back was a sleepy one. We stopped at Grom for gelato, where I chose once more the Nociolla (I doubt if I spelled that right, and I'm sure I didn't pronounce it right when i ordered it.) Between Ca d'Oro and Grom, I have to give the nod to Grom.

Saturday 10/13
Today was a day very much off the beaten path. Maybe not much info for the Venice traveler, but a truly wonderful day for us.
DH has a cousin who was stationed at Aviano Air Base for many years. He married a local girl born and raised in Pordenone, and stayed there after retiring. We took a short train ride there where they met us and showed us around their little town.
The main Corso is full of medieval homes, many with the frescos still intact or restored. Interspersed here and there is a modern building, replacing one damaged by bombing in WWII.It was fantastic having someone local share their knowledge of the area. One of her brothers is a fresco restorer, so I think her personal knowledge was that much more enhanced. What truly made it special for me, though, was her obvious pride in her town and its history. Along the corso she pointed out the house in which she was born, and on the front of it is a plaque showing that in this house Garibaldi once stayed! Born into history indeed!

After the stroll and some coffee and picture sharing at cousin's apartment, of course we had to meet Mama, who lives just across the street. Mama speaks no English, but she warmly welcomed us, happy to see some extended family of her son in law. She's tiny, and comes just up to the chest of my husband. When introduced, she gave him a big hug and patted his belly, declaring he is a "real American."

We have wine with more family - a brother, his wife, and children. They cannot join us for dinner, so the four of us enjoy pizza and beer before we head back on the evening train. It was such a fun day, and so great to meet someone with the local insight. But what was really special is DH's connecting with family that had been long since distanced.

Pordenone is a beautiful little town, and just a little over an hour from Venice by train (for less than 10Euro.) I would recommend it for anyone looking for a day out of the city.

Hanibilly - just found your TR and so glad that I did.

So pleased that you found the marble "curtains" - aren't they amazing? DS insisted that we went back specially for another look before we left Venice.

looking forward to more!

Seeing all the famous tourist places is nice but days like your Saturday are the best. There's something special about "going local" with friends or relatives. Great report!

hanabilly, what a wonderful report! I adore Venice and your well chosen words are bringing me back.

Thank you all for the nice comments. Just a quick check-in. We are now in the Umbria (and, sadly, the last) leg of our trip. Wifi is not available in our apartment. Instead, we sit at a table near the owners' home. Not quite so convenient. Right now, the mosquitoes are attacking, so perhaps early evening is not the best time to come out here.

Bologna was amazing, and Umbria is more than I could dream of! Enjoying it all,to say the least, and will write the details later.

PS. to John and others - thanks for turning me on to Donna Leon books...can't wait for something to keep me "in" Venice once I'm home. It could be a long winter! I love disappearing into a book, especially when it's placed someplace you love or would love to be!

OK hanabilly - I have a comment for you and I have a question for you. First my comment - I'm really really jealous!!! Now my question - how were you ever able to leave your hotel in Venice? Since you did not provide a link for lazy people like myself (LOL) to look at your hotel, I was forced to use the old fashioned method - I googled it. OMG! Wow! Holy Cow! All I can do is repeat myself - I'm really really jealous! NICE!!! Can't wait to read more of your report and see you pics. BTW I think you will like Donna Leon's books - they really do transport me back to Venice.

John- sorry about the links - I planned to include all the particulars upon return home. I'm sort of free-association typing now. A little more disjointed as the trip goes on. I guess I am out of my linear thinking mode. Blame it on Umbria!
Yes, the hotel in Venice was very beautiful and comfortable and it would have been hard to leave, if the bells weren't ringing or the vaporettos chugging by. We did not have a canal front room (they were vastly more expensive) but we were lucky enough to have a "sideways" view of the canal and the Rialto Market.

I was of course VERY sad to leave Venice, and could only shore up my spirits by: 1.) Beginning to plan my return trip, and 2.) Remembering that we were catching the train to Bologna and then on to Umbria.

Today is our last full day in Umbria and the first cloudy day since our arrival. The weather has been absolutely heavenly! Tomorrow we return our car in Orvieto, and then train to Rome for our return ;>(

Oops - I guess my attempt at humor did not come through. I only meant to poke fun at myself for being lazy. I really wish there was a "trying to be funny" font - I would have used it. Why does vacation time seem to go by twice as fast as regular time? Looking forward to your report!

Well, finally, I am back. I've been having a tough time "decompressing" in the 10 days or so that we've been back. In the past, I seem to remember that flying west across all those time zones was easier than the easterly flight. A couple times I even went to work the very next day after an evening return with no ill effects but a little yawning come 4:00. This time was tough, and I found myself conking out by 7:30 some nights. Not to mention the added insult of switching our own domestic clocks this past weekend. Soldiering on...

Thanks for your patience - thank goodness I didn't use the old soap opera "Friday Hook" technique to keep your interest - you'd all be ready to mutiny by now.

Looking back over what I've already written, one thing I omitted was our trip to the Rialto Market. Saturday morning, Even though we wanted to catch an early train to Pordenone, I knew that Saturday would be the last day to catch the market (other than Tuesday, our departure day.) Plus, I wanted to pick up a little gift for the family, and not knowing their likes at all, I thought some nice fresh fruit would be welcomed.

We were just across the canal from the market. Even though we were right at a Traghetto stop, I didn't trust myself with my stability issues, so we opted for a vaporetto jog across the canal. This is probably something you wouldn't do if you didn't have a pass, and I was so glad we had one!

I love the markets in Europe, and each time I visit one, I regret not being in an apartment (next visit, I say to myself!) Resplendent with the most beautiful selection of vegetables, and incredible displays of fish and seafood, the prices looked very reasonable, and I could see how, if you're a cook, you could eat very well in Venice for a fraction of the cost. After the picture taking, gawking, and pointing, I picked up some pears and some Sicilian peaches and headed back across the canal. Oh, I also bought about a half kilo of what I believe was "minestrone" mix. The closest thing to fast food at the market - it was a delicious mix of chopped veggies - I bought it to have some raw veggies to munch on - one thing we had missed over the last few days. Perfect train ride crunchies.

I forgot to add our funny Friday meal. After we returned from Burano and our nice lunch there, our afternoon gelato stop, we headed back to the hotel - very likely to call it a night. However, after a little rest, we decided to head out for a drink and many a little something to munch on. I was thinking we'd head to a cichetti bar, but all we passed were full to the brim. We stopped at a pizza place with outdoor seating. I was pretty sure this would be a mistake, but by now we were thirsty and a little hungry, and we really didn't feel like putting in the mileage to search out something else.

We ended up with a very nice bottle of Chianti, and we ordered just on Margarita pizza to share. The mediocrity and disappointment of the pizza was surpassed only by the surly and petulant staff. The owner, who took our pizza order, used any delay time in the ordering process (and we and our fellow diners gave him many) to yell - yes, YELL - at the wait staff as well as the kitchen help back inside. We were afraid he was going to have a heart attack before we were able to finish our wine and get out of there. No such drama, though. I think this was the only experience we had of really bad service anywhere in our trip. Mostly it was warm and gracious, sometimes a little aloof, but only this place qualified as "bad." It was kind of funny, though, and I'm glad we were there, if only for a little contrast.

I love the markets in Europe, and each time I visit one, I regret not being in an apartment (next visit, I say to myself!) Resplendent with the most beautiful selection of vegetables, and incredible displays of fish and seafood, the prices looked very reasonable, and I could see how, if you're a cook, you could eat very well in Venice for a fraction of the cost>>

hanabilly, we did rent an apartment in Venice, and though I'm not sure we actually saved that much, we ate well when we ate in. Because it was Easter sunday while we were there [we arrived on good friday] we hit the market early on the saturday morning, and bought some lovely lamb to roast [with a large spring of rosemary thrown in] some potatoes [did we want them to boil or to roast?] and various veggies. with the wine we bought from the shop round the corner that will fill your plastic bottle from their vat, and the strawberries we had for dessert, we had a real easter feast. I suppose that we ate in 1/2 of the time, and in restaurants the rest.