Grindlewald, Lauterbrunnen and La Dolce Vita on the semi cheap in Bellagio
Jun 21st, 2013, 09:59 AM
#1
Original Poster
Grindlewald, Lauterbrunnen and La Dolce Vita on the semi cheap in Bellagio
We arrived in Zurich from Tel Aviv for the last part of our month long trip. The Air France flights with a change of plane in Paris was thankfully uneventful this time and we arrived in Zurich in the late afternoon on schedule. We again had a reservation with the try harder rental car company and it was a marked difference from our experience with that company at Ben Gurion airport. We were the only customers at the rental desk and the nice young lady was pleased to tell us that we were being upgraded to a "better" vehicle than the Skoda that we expected. It was an Opel Astra station wagon with a turbocharged engine and quite luxurious. At first I was thinking that the turbo engine would be draining the gas tank as it quickly accelerated but then I figured the extra power would be useful in the mountains so what the heck, I took it. What Try Harder did not have is anyone to check us out on the car which would have be very helpful - along the way messages in German would pop up on the screen but since the car kept on running I trusted it would continue to do so and get us to Grindlewald.
Our first night was to be in Grindlewald and I hoped to get there before dark. Tom Tom led us from the airport garage through a highway maze and finally to the highway that we needed. As we left the area around Zurich the road became increasingly scenic and we lost count of how many times we exclaimed Wow! Look at that! on the way to Grindlewald. It also began to rain, a rain that would turn to drizzle and then back again to rain for out entire time in in the Bernese Oberland with some clearing for awhile here and there.
Tom Tom did great until we were nearly at our destination, the Jungfrau Lodge, taking a few wrong turns until we finally found it as night set in with the rain picking up. The Lodge has ample parking and the young lady at the desk who spoke decent English led us to our room. BTW, I noticed there is also a self service laundry just across the road which could be handy.
Our room, pictured in the photo link below had a good alpine vibe with a balcony and nice view of lights twinkling on the mountain side. We could not wait until morning to see the mountain view. We paid the extra small fee for Wi-Fi which for a change worked. The Jungfrau Lodge also has a work station in the small lobby that is free. Morning came and the mountains were shrouded in a heavy mist, which later lifted for the beautiful view of the Eiger that we hoped for. We enjoyed watching the trains snake there way up and down the mountain.
The Lodge's breakfast was an excellent buffet with a good variety of choices. After stuffing ourselves on breakfast goodies, we were off to Lauterbrunnen, a scenic drive of about 15-20 minutes where we also visited nearby Trummelbach Falls - one of the grandest sights we have ever seen and a perfect place to spend a few hours on a rainy day.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634242659091/
Next: Lauterbrunnen and Trummelbach Falls.
Our first night was to be in Grindlewald and I hoped to get there before dark. Tom Tom led us from the airport garage through a highway maze and finally to the highway that we needed. As we left the area around Zurich the road became increasingly scenic and we lost count of how many times we exclaimed Wow! Look at that! on the way to Grindlewald. It also began to rain, a rain that would turn to drizzle and then back again to rain for out entire time in in the Bernese Oberland with some clearing for awhile here and there.
Tom Tom did great until we were nearly at our destination, the Jungfrau Lodge, taking a few wrong turns until we finally found it as night set in with the rain picking up. The Lodge has ample parking and the young lady at the desk who spoke decent English led us to our room. BTW, I noticed there is also a self service laundry just across the road which could be handy.
Our room, pictured in the photo link below had a good alpine vibe with a balcony and nice view of lights twinkling on the mountain side. We could not wait until morning to see the mountain view. We paid the extra small fee for Wi-Fi which for a change worked. The Jungfrau Lodge also has a work station in the small lobby that is free. Morning came and the mountains were shrouded in a heavy mist, which later lifted for the beautiful view of the Eiger that we hoped for. We enjoyed watching the trains snake there way up and down the mountain.
The Lodge's breakfast was an excellent buffet with a good variety of choices. After stuffing ourselves on breakfast goodies, we were off to Lauterbrunnen, a scenic drive of about 15-20 minutes where we also visited nearby Trummelbach Falls - one of the grandest sights we have ever seen and a perfect place to spend a few hours on a rainy day.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634242659091/
Next: Lauterbrunnen and Trummelbach Falls.
Jun 21st, 2013, 10:36 AM
#2
Yes, Trummelbach Falls. Truly unique and spectacular IMO and I am going to be BACK there in just a few weeks!
Thanks very much for posting your report as I know they take a lot of thought and work.
Thanks very much for posting your report as I know they take a lot of thought and work.
Jun 21st, 2013, 05:52 PM
#3
Original Poster
BELLINZONA! How could I have forgotten. The title of this TR should have been: Grindlewald, Lauterbrunnen, Bellenzona and La Dolce Vita on the semi cheap in Bellagio.
Dukey, Lucky you. Trummelbach Falls was the best 15CHF I have ever spent. I hope you write a TR too as I always have appreciated your perspective on things.
Dukey, Lucky you. Trummelbach Falls was the best 15CHF I have ever spent. I hope you write a TR too as I always have appreciated your perspective on things.
Jun 22nd, 2013, 09:47 AM
#5
Original Poster
Just a word about our choice of places to visit in Switzerland.
In May of 1968 we visited Switzerland for the first and only time until this trip. It was our honeymoon and included Geneva, Lucerne and Grindlewald. Of the three, we liked Grindlewald the best - it was at that time a small picturesque town with wonderful views- what we had imagined an alpine town should look like. We arrived without reservations and there was a pole near the train station with signs pointing to various hotels. One caught our eyes because next the the hotel's name, the Hotel Silberhorn, were the Hebrew letters spelling kosher. Not in our wildest thoughts would we have expected that in a tiny Alpine town. We waited for a herd of cows to pass the road, and then they actually did wear cowbells, and drove to check out the hotel. It was perfect. Typical chalet style, not big and a magnificent mountain view. The price was good and there was a vacancy - our room was also perfect with the same view. So, Grindlewald has very fond memories for us so had to be on our list. Grindlewald has certainly grown since then and IMO lost some of its charm - yet, it is still an enjoyable place to be and those magnificent views will always be there.
Lauterbrunnen - that was on our list because of what Dukey and others had posted - one may not agree with all of his views, but from what I have read he seems to have excellent taste. Guidebook description supported that choice and it is close to Grindlewald.
Bellinzona was a stab in the dark. Our plan was to drive to Bellagio taking three days from Zurich and I searched for a promising place to overnight on the way after leaving Grindlewald that would be an easy fairly short drive to Bellagio. After some research Bellinzona seemed to fit the bill. And it did.
We planned to have a short visit to Wengen or Muren but because of the weather and heavy overcast decided it would not be a good use of our time. Googling their town Cams confirmed that. Visibility could be measured in yards, not miles. Too bad, distances are short and either would have been an easy diversion.
Lauterbrunnen was all and more than we expected and I think it an ideal base to explore the Bernese Oberland. The town is pretty and just the right size with waterfalls practically in the center of town and it is easily accessible. There are plenty of restaurants and places to stay. Nearby is Trummelbach Falls. These falls are mostly INSIDE the mountain on 10 levels and is the only one of its kind in Europe. It is the kind of site that should be on everyone's bucket list. There is a lift that can take one halfway up through the mountain and I recommend that on a visit to use it and then walk the rest of the way up on the carved inside the mountain stairs. You will get wet from the spray. The power and roar of the falls on each level, and each level is different, is enhanced by its closeness. You are never more than a few yards away. It is truly a thrilling sight.
Here are some photos of Lauterbrunnen and the falls. I have movies of the falls as well, but unfortunately I took them in a format not compatible for Flickr upload.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634243386293/
We returned that evening to Grindlewald and elected to have dinner at the hotel. It was a set menu at I believe 25 or 30 CHF per person which is not bad for Switzerland. The dinner was good - they had fish that night which suited DW fine. Before dinner we had strolled through town in the remaining daylight hours and did some shopping for gifts for the kids. Midway through the stroll the rain started up again in earnest. DW always has a small umbrella in the satchel she calls a pocketbook. I thought the rain had finally ended, but when it came, it was a warm rain so I did not mind at all. Dinner done, we packed for our trip the next morning to Bellinzona.
Next: Bellenzona, an unexpected surprise.
In May of 1968 we visited Switzerland for the first and only time until this trip. It was our honeymoon and included Geneva, Lucerne and Grindlewald. Of the three, we liked Grindlewald the best - it was at that time a small picturesque town with wonderful views- what we had imagined an alpine town should look like. We arrived without reservations and there was a pole near the train station with signs pointing to various hotels. One caught our eyes because next the the hotel's name, the Hotel Silberhorn, were the Hebrew letters spelling kosher. Not in our wildest thoughts would we have expected that in a tiny Alpine town. We waited for a herd of cows to pass the road, and then they actually did wear cowbells, and drove to check out the hotel. It was perfect. Typical chalet style, not big and a magnificent mountain view. The price was good and there was a vacancy - our room was also perfect with the same view. So, Grindlewald has very fond memories for us so had to be on our list. Grindlewald has certainly grown since then and IMO lost some of its charm - yet, it is still an enjoyable place to be and those magnificent views will always be there.
Lauterbrunnen - that was on our list because of what Dukey and others had posted - one may not agree with all of his views, but from what I have read he seems to have excellent taste. Guidebook description supported that choice and it is close to Grindlewald.
Bellinzona was a stab in the dark. Our plan was to drive to Bellagio taking three days from Zurich and I searched for a promising place to overnight on the way after leaving Grindlewald that would be an easy fairly short drive to Bellagio. After some research Bellinzona seemed to fit the bill. And it did.
We planned to have a short visit to Wengen or Muren but because of the weather and heavy overcast decided it would not be a good use of our time. Googling their town Cams confirmed that. Visibility could be measured in yards, not miles. Too bad, distances are short and either would have been an easy diversion.
Lauterbrunnen was all and more than we expected and I think it an ideal base to explore the Bernese Oberland. The town is pretty and just the right size with waterfalls practically in the center of town and it is easily accessible. There are plenty of restaurants and places to stay. Nearby is Trummelbach Falls. These falls are mostly INSIDE the mountain on 10 levels and is the only one of its kind in Europe. It is the kind of site that should be on everyone's bucket list. There is a lift that can take one halfway up through the mountain and I recommend that on a visit to use it and then walk the rest of the way up on the carved inside the mountain stairs. You will get wet from the spray. The power and roar of the falls on each level, and each level is different, is enhanced by its closeness. You are never more than a few yards away. It is truly a thrilling sight.
Here are some photos of Lauterbrunnen and the falls. I have movies of the falls as well, but unfortunately I took them in a format not compatible for Flickr upload.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634243386293/
We returned that evening to Grindlewald and elected to have dinner at the hotel. It was a set menu at I believe 25 or 30 CHF per person which is not bad for Switzerland. The dinner was good - they had fish that night which suited DW fine. Before dinner we had strolled through town in the remaining daylight hours and did some shopping for gifts for the kids. Midway through the stroll the rain started up again in earnest. DW always has a small umbrella in the satchel she calls a pocketbook. I thought the rain had finally ended, but when it came, it was a warm rain so I did not mind at all. Dinner done, we packed for our trip the next morning to Bellinzona.
Next: Bellenzona, an unexpected surprise.
Jun 23rd, 2013, 05:57 AM
#7
Original Poster
Good Sunday to you, fellow fodorites.
Our drive from Grindlewald to Bellinzona was an easy one with the exception of the expected back-up at the Gotthard tunnel - at the time about 25 minutes. It was a gloomy, drizzly day, that is until we entered the tunnel. To our delight, we exited to glorious bright sunshine that was to last for the remainder of our vacation. The drive from there to Bellinzona was mostly highway but when we arrived in the city we liked what we saw.
Bellinzona, is the road less traveled, at least by historical postings on this forum of which there are not many and none are recent. To put it briefly, Bellinzona in the Ticino section of Italian Switzerland is a nice place to visit and IMO, too often overlooked. It has more of an Italian feel and look than Swiss in its architecture and colorful portico covered streets. There are three 15th century castles, all world heritage sites and one of which is open to the public. In its heyday, Bellinzona was a crossroads changing hands from Italy to the Swiss.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634248097202/
We did not stay in Bellinzona itself but in a tiny town called San Antonio. From the map, it was not too clear just where that was, but I had the geographic coordinates, a good thing to have. Entering the city, Tom Tom directed us to a residential street and then we began to climb higher and higher on a scenic switchback road. We marveled at the cyclists laboring up the mountain and others flying back down. Finally, we reached our hotel "Osteria Ritrovo dei Passeggeri" near the summit at a bit over 2500 feet. It did not look like much from the outside, but had magnificent views. The hotel is run by a young couple and it turned out to be a serendipitous choice. We really did not have much reason for choosing it in the first place other than it seemed nice online. We were early for check-in but were able to unload our luggage where the owner promised to keep an eye on it. The hotel has a terrace with memorable views over the mountains and valley with Bellinzona and further on, Lake Maggiori in the distance. We had yet to see our room, but were happy we were there.
With extra time before our room would be ready, we drove down to Bellinzona to explore and have some lunch. Parking in town was not a problem - we parked not far from the public castle and walked around looking for a place to eat and seeing what was there. We took a table at an outdoor cafe that seemed popular and had what was the worst meal of our trip. Although the menu had quite a few items, they only had panini. How can you ruin panini I thought, so that is what we ordered. We found the answer to our question - yes, one can ruin panini. In any case, we were hungry and it was food.BTW, the outdoor restaurant in the photos is not the one where we had lunch - too bad. After our "repast" we explored some more, but did not visit the castle interior. Heading back to add time to our parking spot, we decided to head back to our hotel, which could better be described as a B&B and relax on the terrace and order dinner there.
By the time we returned, our room was ready and the owner had already moved in our luggage. Our room was very large and furnished with lovely antiques. There is no TV, but that was just fine with us. From our windows we could see the mountains and some of the photos below are taken from our windows. One of the photos was taken while lying in bed. It was great!
We had some snacks on the terrace with the other guests, all of whom seemed German and all were there for hiking. For dinner we both had dishes based on Polenta, mine with a tasty local sausage. The dinner set price is 25 CHF. After a restful night, we enjoyed the breakfast included in the price of the room, drove down the mountain and were on our way to Bellagio.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634243103927/
Next: La Dolce Vita on the semi cheap
Our drive from Grindlewald to Bellinzona was an easy one with the exception of the expected back-up at the Gotthard tunnel - at the time about 25 minutes. It was a gloomy, drizzly day, that is until we entered the tunnel. To our delight, we exited to glorious bright sunshine that was to last for the remainder of our vacation. The drive from there to Bellinzona was mostly highway but when we arrived in the city we liked what we saw.
Bellinzona, is the road less traveled, at least by historical postings on this forum of which there are not many and none are recent. To put it briefly, Bellinzona in the Ticino section of Italian Switzerland is a nice place to visit and IMO, too often overlooked. It has more of an Italian feel and look than Swiss in its architecture and colorful portico covered streets. There are three 15th century castles, all world heritage sites and one of which is open to the public. In its heyday, Bellinzona was a crossroads changing hands from Italy to the Swiss.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634248097202/
We did not stay in Bellinzona itself but in a tiny town called San Antonio. From the map, it was not too clear just where that was, but I had the geographic coordinates, a good thing to have. Entering the city, Tom Tom directed us to a residential street and then we began to climb higher and higher on a scenic switchback road. We marveled at the cyclists laboring up the mountain and others flying back down. Finally, we reached our hotel "Osteria Ritrovo dei Passeggeri" near the summit at a bit over 2500 feet. It did not look like much from the outside, but had magnificent views. The hotel is run by a young couple and it turned out to be a serendipitous choice. We really did not have much reason for choosing it in the first place other than it seemed nice online. We were early for check-in but were able to unload our luggage where the owner promised to keep an eye on it. The hotel has a terrace with memorable views over the mountains and valley with Bellinzona and further on, Lake Maggiori in the distance. We had yet to see our room, but were happy we were there.
With extra time before our room would be ready, we drove down to Bellinzona to explore and have some lunch. Parking in town was not a problem - we parked not far from the public castle and walked around looking for a place to eat and seeing what was there. We took a table at an outdoor cafe that seemed popular and had what was the worst meal of our trip. Although the menu had quite a few items, they only had panini. How can you ruin panini I thought, so that is what we ordered. We found the answer to our question - yes, one can ruin panini. In any case, we were hungry and it was food.BTW, the outdoor restaurant in the photos is not the one where we had lunch - too bad. After our "repast" we explored some more, but did not visit the castle interior. Heading back to add time to our parking spot, we decided to head back to our hotel, which could better be described as a B&B and relax on the terrace and order dinner there.
By the time we returned, our room was ready and the owner had already moved in our luggage. Our room was very large and furnished with lovely antiques. There is no TV, but that was just fine with us. From our windows we could see the mountains and some of the photos below are taken from our windows. One of the photos was taken while lying in bed. It was great!
We had some snacks on the terrace with the other guests, all of whom seemed German and all were there for hiking. For dinner we both had dishes based on Polenta, mine with a tasty local sausage. The dinner set price is 25 CHF. After a restful night, we enjoyed the breakfast included in the price of the room, drove down the mountain and were on our way to Bellagio.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634243103927/
Next: La Dolce Vita on the semi cheap
Jun 26th, 2013, 04:41 AM
#9
Original Poster
We had an early start leaving Bellinzona for Bellagio and the mostly scenic drive was under 2 hours. Arriving at the ferry, we crossed Lake Como to Bellagio with mounting anticipation as we drew closer. This was our first time at Lake Como and it is obvious why tourists flock. It is one of most beautiful places I have ever seen. Our weather was perfect, which we were to learn was a stroke of good luck. It had been terrible for several weeks before our arrival and was to turn bad again the day after we left.
Arriving at the Bellagio dock, we followed our GPS to our stay at the Residence L'ulivo. This must be wrong we thought as the GPS had us inching through what appeared to be a pedestrian only street filled with people. With thoughts of traffic cameras snapping pictures of my wayward car and hefty fines to follow, we continued forward since there was no going back and arrived at the Hotel. Checking in we were told that indeed it was the only way to go and that they notify the police of our plate number. There is an arrangement that so notified, there will be no fine.
The Residence L'ulivo is IMO one of the best deals going. It is on the grounds of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbeloni (sp?). Staying at the Residence apartments gives one the full run of this 5* palatial hotel and we took full advantage of that. Contrary to what has been posted on another thread, at no time were we treated with less than the utmost courtesy and no one was "snooty." On the contrary, from the fellow handling our luggage to Roberto the concierge (whose services we made ample use of) we were graciously received and treated throughout our stay and never made to feel like a second class guest.
We had booked what was called the small apartment, so were happy to see it is not small at all. Quite the opposite, it was spacious with lovely tiled floors, an equipped kitchen/dining area and roomy bedroom with a king sized bed. The apartment opened to a terrace that we shared with 3 other apartments that had a nice view of the lake. Many but not all apartments have a lake view, so if you stay there, you should ask for one. Check in for L'ulivo is in the building that houses the gym facilities, but the apartments are behind that building facing either a garden area or the lake. All this for the cost of CHF 130 per night. Truly we were living la dolce vita on the cheap.
I am writing this on an Ipad in a surgical waiting room, so will end now while I still have battery left.
Next: More on Bellagio and the Hotel..
Arriving at the Bellagio dock, we followed our GPS to our stay at the Residence L'ulivo. This must be wrong we thought as the GPS had us inching through what appeared to be a pedestrian only street filled with people. With thoughts of traffic cameras snapping pictures of my wayward car and hefty fines to follow, we continued forward since there was no going back and arrived at the Hotel. Checking in we were told that indeed it was the only way to go and that they notify the police of our plate number. There is an arrangement that so notified, there will be no fine.
The Residence L'ulivo is IMO one of the best deals going. It is on the grounds of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbeloni (sp?). Staying at the Residence apartments gives one the full run of this 5* palatial hotel and we took full advantage of that. Contrary to what has been posted on another thread, at no time were we treated with less than the utmost courtesy and no one was "snooty." On the contrary, from the fellow handling our luggage to Roberto the concierge (whose services we made ample use of) we were graciously received and treated throughout our stay and never made to feel like a second class guest.
We had booked what was called the small apartment, so were happy to see it is not small at all. Quite the opposite, it was spacious with lovely tiled floors, an equipped kitchen/dining area and roomy bedroom with a king sized bed. The apartment opened to a terrace that we shared with 3 other apartments that had a nice view of the lake. Many but not all apartments have a lake view, so if you stay there, you should ask for one. Check in for L'ulivo is in the building that houses the gym facilities, but the apartments are behind that building facing either a garden area or the lake. All this for the cost of CHF 130 per night. Truly we were living la dolce vita on the cheap.
I am writing this on an Ipad in a surgical waiting room, so will end now while I still have battery left.
Next: More on Bellagio and the Hotel..
Jun 26th, 2013, 02:27 PM
#12
Original Poster
TD it was wonderful! we can't wait to go again.
DW had a thyroidectomy. it was a complicated surgery because the thyroid was really messed up after 40 years of hashimoto's thyroiditis - it was a 4hour operation. I am writing this in the recovery room while DW is napping a bit. The docs wanted to remove it because it may have turned malignant. We will find out in a week.
'
DW had a thyroidectomy. it was a complicated surgery because the thyroid was really messed up after 40 years of hashimoto's thyroiditis - it was a 4hour operation. I am writing this in the recovery room while DW is napping a bit. The docs wanted to remove it because it may have turned malignant. We will find out in a week.
'
Jun 27th, 2013, 01:27 PM
#15
Original Poster
Thanks for your concern TD and Santamonica
I brought her home a couple of hours ago and she is doing well.
Since this is Fodors, a menu is called for so this is what I prepared for her gluten free dinner:
Slice of tomato with fresh mozzarella and fresh basil leaf with a drizzle of olive oil (her favorite).
Brown rice pilaf with egg and mixed veggies.
Raspberry tea (American Classic leaf tea and natural raspberry - heavenly).
Next installment of the TR will be photos of the apartment and of Villa Serb
I brought her home a couple of hours ago and she is doing well.
Since this is Fodors, a menu is called for so this is what I prepared for her gluten free dinner:
Slice of tomato with fresh mozzarella and fresh basil leaf with a drizzle of olive oil (her favorite).
Brown rice pilaf with egg and mixed veggies.
Raspberry tea (American Classic leaf tea and natural raspberry - heavenly).
Next installment of the TR will be photos of the apartment and of Villa Serb
Jun 27th, 2013, 05:20 PM
#17
Original Poster
Here are some photos that may be of interest.
Our apartment at the Residence L'ulivo on the grounds of the GH Villa Serbelloni. Shown are our terrace, living room/dining area/kitchen, bedroom with a king sized bed and bath. Also shown are the views from our terrace and window.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634363085281/
As a guest at the Residence L'ulivo, we enjoyed the grounds and amenities of the GH Villa Serbelloni. Here are photos of the exterior and interior of this hotel. Also shown are our final dinner in Bellagio at the Villa Serb's La Goletta the more informal of its two restaurants. The other restaurant, the Mistral has a Michelin star.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634367917134/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...57634363035913
It was a glorious stay.
Our apartment at the Residence L'ulivo on the grounds of the GH Villa Serbelloni. Shown are our terrace, living room/dining area/kitchen, bedroom with a king sized bed and bath. Also shown are the views from our terrace and window.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634363085281/
As a guest at the Residence L'ulivo, we enjoyed the grounds and amenities of the GH Villa Serbelloni. Here are photos of the exterior and interior of this hotel. Also shown are our final dinner in Bellagio at the Villa Serb's La Goletta the more informal of its two restaurants. The other restaurant, the Mistral has a Michelin star.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...7634367917134/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/basings...57634363035913
It was a glorious stay.
Jun 28th, 2013, 07:12 AM
#20
Original Poster
Thank you so much TD
BTW, in viewing photos, click on any of the posted photos and it becomes bigger, click again and bigger still, click a third time and allow full screen and you get a nicely done slideshow.
BTW, in viewing photos, click on any of the posted photos and it becomes bigger, click again and bigger still, click a third time and allow full screen and you get a nicely done slideshow.
