Greece trip itinerary

A good start would be to search under "greece" on this and other message boards -- you would find numerous answers similar to this one:

TIME ALLOCATION -- you have only 12 days (+ travel to/from), and going from Airport/Athens & back is a big time-waster. Also, if u are a bit jet-lagged, isn't it much more fun to wake-up on an island rather than a big city?

Most of us vets advise arriving by mid-day and walking right down the hall to get a domestic flight to the farthest island ... u can get to your hotel in time to walk around, enjoy sunset (in May it's at 8:45!) & a meal on your first day!

Then do your Athens exploring at the end ... and 3 days is plenty (plus day trips). IMO 3 days is also enough for Santorini, since its big art/archeology draw, Akrotiri, is closed indefinitely.

ISLAND CHOICES -- Think about WHY you have chosen these. First-timers always go for the 2 that are the most over-promoted and over-priced but offer no contrast. Santorini is very touristic but of course has that great caldera view. Mykonos is also very touristic & has the sandy beaches Santorini lacks, but... what else?

Both have a lot of nightclub action. If that is top priority then OK. Otherwise, hmm. Your day-trip ideas indicate interest in history/archeology/art , which suggest places other than Mykonos.

You might check out other islands reachable by ferry from Santorini. Just a few are Milos, SIfnos, Ios, Paros and Naxos. Go to Barnes & Noble (or a library), sit in a comfy chair and go thru some guidebooks. See what appeals, and come back with more questions.

BTW Olympia is not do-able as a day trip; you might check into the CHAT 3-day tour of Mycenae, Nafplio, Epidaurus, Corinith.

Hi,

I agree with travelerjan. When you arrive in Greece continue directly right to the most distant island and work your way back. Visit Athens only once. You need two days to explore the city. No more.

We loved Santorini. Don't cut to less than three full days. If you want to rest up, add a day.

I too would omit Mykonos - probably in favor of Naxos. On the other hand, if you want to party with the jet-set, you will like Mykonos.

We were in Greece in May. It was a great visit.

>>Mykonos is also very touristic & has the sandy beaches Santorini lacks, but... what else?<<

Well, it arguably has the most beautiful chora (main town) in the Cyclades, many upmarket shops and restuarants, easiest access to Delos, and is a great place for people watching.

The more I hear Mykonos put down, the more I want to make a return visit (I can sometimes be a contrary so-and-so). Maybe next spring I will stop on Mykonos for a couple days on my way to Antiparos.

Good for you Heimdall.

Not everyone visits Mykonos for its party scene or up-scale shops. Of course, those are there if you want them but I do sometimes wish folks would look a little further past them and concentrate on other things that also attract people to the island.

It gets a bit wearisome to read those well-worn excuses regularly given to folks making enquiries about Mykonos that it 'could' or 'should' be avoided.

Yes, it does have one of the most beautiful towns in the Cyclades. Stroll through it and see the vivid coloured flora, beautiful old houses lovingly cared for, winding narrow streets to savour and enjoy. Oh, and these are the streets that are off the main well-walked routes.

Read about its history. Visit its museums.

Does anyone ever think of telling enquirers here about the amazing remote beaches on the north of the island? Mostly deserted, very beautiful and a joy to visit. Or Aghios Ioannis, a magical part of Mykonos, with its own tales of mermaids and pirates plus sea colours that I have never seen anywhere else in my 35 years of travelling around the islands of Greece.

Think also about the stunning caves at Tragonesi, St. Panteleimon in Marathi, and do not forget the town of Ano Mera, its monastery and some of the best tavernas on the island.

These are the places that visitors I am sure would enjoy and, believe it or not, not a party scene or up-scale shop to be found anywhere near them.

bill

Heimdall & Billbarr -- I didn't mean to be mean!

I've got a wonderful artist friend in Mykonos, whose B & B I've stayed in on both my visits, and another good friend was married to a jewelry designer with a shop in the agora for nearly 30 years -- and through them I've met a lot of fascinating people who call Mykonos home.

But I guess I'm just not "upmarket" enough -- I can't afford most of the restaurants, I no longer have a car, so I don't have a driver's license... and those remote places you love are not accessible by bus, mainly.

Maybe I think of other islands first because I can access their lovely "lonely places" readily by bus or by hiking ... and there are some choras that are less be-jewelled, but can be appreciated in stillness, any day in May ... such as the high agora in Amorgos, Plaka in Serifos, Chora in Sifnos, and Chora in Milos. Blinding white cubes of buildings, red & blue flowers everywhere, and 17 different colors of sea far far below.

All this, and a beach room for about 30E per day. Yes, I admit it, I am downmarket. And lucky to discover places where that can be beautiful.

I'm not going to bash Mykonos, which is fine, but I do think that too many folks -- mostly U.S. travelers -- fall almost automatically into that Santorini-Mykonos travel two-step.

I think Santorini is almost a must-see just on its natural beauty, but after a few days there I like to get away to a spot that's not so driven by tourism ... and there are so many other islands that offer that. GBC and Traveljan offered nice options.

Personal preference, I know, but if getting away from the tourism "buzz" is important, then it's not going to happen with that island pairing.

But different strokes ... one of the good things about travel is that one size doesn't fit all.

As for the Athens question, I'm with those who say do it last, although it's not been that big of a deal to me. But if you do divide the time ... take no more than two days on the front and two or three on the back -- giving more time in the islands. There's no need for island day trips out of Athens with your Cyclades time.

Hi travelerjan

>But I guess I'm just not "upmarket" enough -- I can't afford most of the restaurants, I no longer have a car, so I don't have a driver's license... and those remote places you love are not accessible by bus, mainly.<

Well thank goodness someone else isn’t upmarket enough. I never eat in the restaurants you mention and, like you, I don’t have a car. The places I have written about mostly all can be reached by local buses and, to some, a little extra walking. Only Tragonesi needs a mixture of bus, walking and then a small caiche, but what an adventure!

I use a small bike when on the island and my feet. I completely avoid the expensive restaurants and bars. I am sure you will understand, having also travelled to Greece for so many years, that no matter where you are, and I include Mykonos town, you can find small tavernas were food is cheap and good.

I actually feel sad that so many people don’t do more exploring when on the island. There really is so much more to see than Chora, much as I enjoy it.

This year, like many in the past, I sat late one evening in a small outdoor theatre in the Lakka district of town watching some traditional Mykonian singing and dancing performed by adults and children together (you are probably aware that Greek dancing is part of every child’s curriculum at school and they are graded on it). As always, it was a joy to be there and even more so at the end of the evening when everyone moved down and sang and danced with the performers, young and old alike. Most of the audience were locals. I feel old (well, I am actually) just thinking of how many I recognized!

Yet, only a few streets away were those shops and restaurants used by visitors, most of whom may not even have known of the performance closeby.

If folks go looking for special places on Mykonos they will find them.

>All this, and a beach room for about 30E per day. Yes, I admit it, I am downmarket. And lucky to discover places where that can be beautiful.<

Me too and I’ve found it on Mykonos. 30E a day? That’s at least 5 more than I’d be paying

Hi Jan,

I didn't think you were being mean at all, but your "but...what else?" begged for an answer.

Bill Barr's description of Mykonos was one of the ...I'm lost for words, here...most inspiring I have heard of any island in Greece. Like you, I depend on public transport when visiting the islands, but would like to seek out some of the locations he mentions.

I read the first messages here on the page and was going to reply then I read billbarr's replys.

Sir, you know my island better then I do.

The performnces at Lakka are very good and most of times local people or visitign Greek artists to sing and perform.

My grade was not so good for dancing becasue I play much football but as I become older I think I improve if I sit exam again!

thanos

Wow, what inspiring responses to start the New Year with!

Billbarr and Thanos, how would one find out about such dance events, and what kind of map would enable me to find the Lakka area, from where I stay? (My friends place is up behind Despotika Hotel, uphill from the "bus square"). Through my friend, I have gone to some interesting art happenings but would have no way to know about non-touristy dance things. In previous years I have checked an Internet mykonos events calendar but it just has totally touristic things. Thanks for your help!

To you all, thank you. It is easy to write about someone or somewhere you love.

Heimdall and Brotherleelove write with passion about their favourite islands or mainland Greece as does travelerjan. So many others do the same. I enjoy reading them all.

Travelerjan, the Lakka district and the small amphitheatre is easy to find from your starting point.

When you come down to the busy crossroads you will see the bus station ahead. Don't cross the road but turn right and walk along until you come to the Belvedere Hotel (about 4 minutes). There is a road down the side of this hotel to both the Semeli and Elena Hotels. Here you will look down to Lakka and the theatre plus the tree-lined avenue beside it. Go down this small road past both hotels and cross the little bridge and you will be in Lakka. You will be amazed how quiet it is there despite it being so close to those bars and restuarants I mentioned earlier.

I understand also what you say about the difficulty in finding out about some of these local events.

The best site for me that I only recently found on another board is the following. They do advertise local events. The second link will show you how the theatre looks at a recent concert there:

http://www.e-mykonos.gr/

http://tinyurl.com/2w2pfh

I also have a map that may help. Can I send it to your email adress?

Heimdall, please let me know when you intend visiting the island and I will be delighted to give you all the details you need. It will be a pleasure.

bill

sorry, I hit the button too quickly.

bill, did you arrange with someone in town to go to Tragonisi? It is a place not many people travel to and if you could tell me who arranged it for you I will keep a note for anyone else who asks.

Also, Panteleimon is privately owned but allows visitors. It is best if you let them know in advance.

That'll teach me to do Microsoft Updates when they come out and not wait 3 weeks or so only to discover that one of them caused problems to Internet Explorer. Their fix didn't fix it for me and my son has just talked me through a rollback. Now I can reply when before it simply shut the d**n browser down when I tried.

Email was fine though and Thanos was good enough to post my reply after sending it to the address he has on here.

Totally off topic but my son suggests I move to another called Firefox. Has anyone here used it? If so, does it work OK with Fodors?

sorry Thanos I missed your questions.

Yes, my friends at the hotel arranged the trip for me including the little boat. They knew someone that would take me to the island which, he told me during the sail, used to be almost daily for him but in recent years their popularity has declined. I will email you his details.

I didn't know Panteleimon was privately owned. I simply cycled there, was welcomed and allowed to walk around. Nothing was said to me by the folks who were there and they were very helpful. Now I feel a little embarressed that perhaps I should have sought permission first :">

Thanos, thank you so much for the detailed directions! Yes, please send your map to my e-mail. I have a pretty fair printed map of Mykonos town, but nothing from online.

By the Way folks, I have collected some fairly good map links online which I've used in counseling folks -- for Nafplio, Greater Athens (to show how to get on a highway), several of Athens, Naxos Town, Nafplio, Chania, Heraklion & even a pretty fair one or two of Fira. Happy to pass along the links.

Billbarr, I feel your pain -- but I don't have it myself because (smile) I am a MacPerson. Have worked with both systems (was forced to at my office) but totally prefer Macs.

But to your point, on my OS-X system, I happily said goodbye to Explorer ... I use TWO browsers, Firefox and Safari (the latter is a Mac product).

It is useful to have 2 running, because when you are posting a message and need to grab a link to add to it, you never accidentally click off your message when going to your bookmarks menu. (Yes I know u can click "new window" but then u sometimes accidentally close the wrong one of your 2 windows).

I keep most of my bookmarks on Safari but use Firefox for browsing -- for one thing, Microsoft (which hates all things Mac) has now "jiggered" things so that Safari can't access hotmail. How petty. How 5th grade can you get.

Firefox is nice, it's fast, have never had a problem ... if you can use 2, all the better. Firefox is Linux, open source.

Hi travelerjan

Thanks for the information.

I started another thread on here about my problems yesterday and folks have also said there that Firefox is OK with Fodors.

I'm using it now and it looks so different to what I am used to but I will make it my default browser. I won't risk going back to Explorer.

The map has now been sent to your email address.

Bill

BIll Barr, THANKS for the Map and doubly thanks for the wonderful links!

I was so moved by the link about the observance of the 85th anniversary of the Smyrna massacres. By chance in my 20s I shared a NYC apt. with another young woman whose father barely escaped that tragedy so long ago .. and the more I read & learn of it, the more I see how the sadness of that time underlies so much of Greek song and poetry.

In the link reporting that observance in Mykonos, the pathos and emotion of the Smyrna descendants is palpable, and the translation of a traditional song of the sea touched me beyond words. Yes, this conveys the essential core of 'Greekness.'

You are very welcome travelerjan.

There is usually an event at theatre weekly during the summer months. I've been to fair number over the years and the atmosphere is special there, no matter what the event is.

Fascinating to read your comments about the link. There were a number I could have chosen but that caught my eye and reading it made me wish I had attended. I am pleased it meant something special to you.

You now know where to visit when you next stay with your friends

Also, I hope briant13 who posted the original question checks the theatre out too should a visit to Mykonos be on the cards.

Bill

My apologies to Heimdall.

If you would like a copy of the map of the Lakka district where this little unique theatre is located, please email me and I'll happily send it to you.

Bill

No need to apologize, Bill. Look for my email.

Thanks everyone for your advice on my original request way up there at the top of this chain

I've changed my expectations and revised my trip as follows:

14 days now --

4 days Rhodes
4 days Santorini
3 days Mykonos
3 days Athens

I've accounted for travel time .. I realize the first day for each location will be spent mostly travelling whether by air or ferry. This will give me 3 full days in Rhodes and Santorini and 2 in Mykonos and Athens.

While I'm not big on the party scene, I still chose Mykonos because there *are* other things to do there and I really want to see Delos.

Rhodes and Santorini look incredible and are no-brainers as far as I'm concerned.

Is it still too ambitious? Should I knock one island out so I have more time to spend on the remaining two plus Athens?

Thanks again for the advice.

Briant, I think this plan will work for you, now that you've added a couple of days to the trip... you seem like the kind of person who likes to be on the move anyway, rather than vegging out.

It particularly will work best if you can get that new airline that goes from Rhodes to Santorini -- that booking is absolutely key, unless u want to spend big bucks to fly BACk to Athens and OUT to Santorini.

FINALLY -- to help all of us help others, it would be nice if, after your trip, you could post a message telling us what worked and what was a hassle, about your itinerary. Best of luck, and have fun!

Travelerjan,

Can you give me any additional information on the new airline service from Rhodes to Santorini? I was assuming I'd have to arrange a long ferry journey between these islands, but if I can fly, that would be MUCH better.

Thanks!

It's called Sky Express.

http://www.skyexpress.gr/

Be advised that the planes are small so baggage allowances are very strict. Read the fine print.

If I do wind up taking a ferry from Rhodes to Santorini instead of arranging air transportation, can anyone give me a rough estimate of the time involved for that journey?

It looks like Santorini - Mykonos and Mykonos - Athens should be easy enough as the high speed ferry will be available by May, but I'm concerned about travel time from Rhodes to Santorini.

Thanks!

Briant13, your major concern about the Rhodes-Santorini ferry will be frequency of departure rather than length of the journey. Until ferry timetables appear in the spring, it is impossible to know what this year's departures will be. According to Greek Island Hopping 2007, however, there were only two departures per week (Thu and Sun at 4:30AM) on a ferry called Ierapetra L, with five stops before reaching Santorini. Whatever this year's situation will be, don't expect daily departures.