Gluten Free in Paris

My mom is gluten-intolerant, and we visited Paris two years ago. For some reason, she was able to eat the bread (baguettes) there without incident. I don't know if you're adventurous, but it worked for her. I printed up a card that I got on this website http://www.celiactravel.com/gluten-free-cards/14-french.html and took it with us just in case they didn't understand what I was trying to convey. I would do that just so you have it. Good luck!

This is a link to davidlebovitz.com and his information on eating gluten free in Paris. David is a chef and cookbook author who lives in Paris and blogs about food.

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007/10/glutenfree_eati.html

Have a great trip!

Melissa, no croissants and no baguettes either in spite of the experience of Kyliebaby’s mom. It’s just not worth taking the chance of being sick while you’re travelling. Some places selling gluten free bread have been mentioned on previous threads, however, and I usually carry some rice cakes that can be topped with sandwich fillings.

Rendez-Vous de la Nature (rue Mouffetard in the 5th)
Bio St Germain (30 bd St Germain in the 5th)
Espace Bio St Charles (20 rue de l'Eglise in the 15th)

Naturalia, a chain of health food stores, also offers gluten free bread and many grocery stores have a gluten free section with limited choice.

Traditional Crepes Breton, known as galettes, are made from sarsin or buckwheat flour, which, in spite of the name, is a relative of rhubarb and not a grain at all. Researching recipes, however, I discovered that buckwheat crepes are often made from a combination of buckwheat and wheat flours or buckwheat flour and beer even, not safe for Celiacs.

Asking about this on a former thread here on Fodors, I was advised by Hanl “to head to the "Breton" area of Paris, near Montparnasse station. Along rue d'Odessa and rue du Montparnasse are countless Breton creperies - so there's a good chance that you'd find one that didn't use wheat flour.”

When I was in the Dordogne in 2006, I found a place where crepes were cooked right in front of me, using flour taken directly from a huge bag marked Sarasin - which I knew meant buckwheat flour. Filled with egg, ham and cheese, just one of the many possibilities, they were a delicious gluten free meal. These kind of crepes are usually used for savoury filling while dessert crepes are made from wheat flour.

You need to ask questions, talk to the chef and perhaps see what is used for yourself to be sure that the crepes are made the traditional Breton way but, believe me, it’s worth the effort. I’ll be in Paris in June and plan to track down some gallettes/sarsins in Montparnasse or possibly Montmartre where I’ll be staying.

Be sure to print and take with you some of those gluten free restaurant cards available on http://celiactravel.com/ They were a great help on my last trip to France.

If you are one of the lucky Celiacs like me who don’t also have lactose intolerance, when in doubt have fruit, wine and cheese!

These posts are very helpful! I haven't had a crepe in a long while, so a delicious, gluten free crepe would make my day. The David Liebovitz site had a link to a new entirely gluten free restaurant. I will be checking that out, no doubt. I'll be in Paris in May so I will post an update here with gluten free gems.

Hi Melissa - I look forward to hearing your experience in the gluten free restaurant. I will be in Paris in August - staying in the Montparnasse area, so maybe I can finally try some crepes! When I was last in Paris, I went to the Espace Bio that Moolyn recomendeds in Rue d'Eglise - they had all sorts of gluten free goodies (including apple turnovers). Have a great trip.

Melissa, I saw your apartment thread as I was looking for one at the same time. Did you find one and if so where? Ours is in Montmartre, just a short walk from the new gluten free restaurants so I hope you will report on this before we leave home on June 4th.

Hanl, who has made some gluten free recommendations, wrote on an another thread that her favourite crêpe place is "Crêperie de Josselin on rue du Montparnasse (worth queueing for a table). I also love the crêperie on rue Lepic in Montmartre, called L'Assiette Lepic." This second recommendation is near the gluten free place and our apartment too so we'll try it for sure, perhaps for our very first meal in Paris. I like the galette complete with ham and cheese.

Looking over my notes on GF France, another celiac wrote that "the best gf bread we have ever had is sold in France. We found it in health food stores in Paris....the brand is "valpiform"." So look for it too.

A gluten-free diet helped me "lick" breathing problems but I was never tested for Celiacs since the year on the diet supposedly would have prompted a negative test result. That being said, in Italy and France, I ate what I wanted and was fine. A chocolate croissant for breakfast keeps the doctor away. Even went 2 kilometers up hill without needed nebulizer.

If you do have Celiacs, that's something else again and DO avoid wheat, but I swear the food supply is better over there.

Please share more about this after you return. It is of great interest to many of us.

Mmm, you're all making me hungry!

TDudette -- I'm so glad a little wheat here and there worked for you. Perhaps you have an allergy to wheat but can handle it in small doses. Hooray! if that's the case. I, however, get that pesky immune reaction to wheat. Ended up in the hospital two years ago from an acute reaction to it. Ick. So, as much as I'd like to, there won't be any wheat cheating for me! And no bragging about how delicious the wheatables are!! Lol.

Moolyn -- I am leaving early May and have free WiFi in my ever-so-humble accomodations (in the 6th arrondissement) so I'll be sure to update this thread. I'm also staying for nearly four weeks and I love to eat so here come the reviews.

Oh, and in case y'all hadn't heard, Starbucks will be carrying a gluten free orange muffin in its stores beginning May 5. I don't know if this is true of locations outside the U.S. but hurrah for mainstream gluten free products.

We leave Wed. for a 6 week stint in the Riveria. My son and I are Celiac, so we have been doing a ton of research. I don't have a ton to add yet, but I will post info on our trip which may be helpful for you. The "bio" in town is the first stop after the market on Friday.

We have a layover in London, and it was great to see how easy GF eating is in the airport (reprtedly). I found a blog that suggested GF baked goods, including GF sandwiches are sometimes available at Starbucks in England.

Now back on topic - I hear that the buckwheat bread is rather tastey and all bread is better than the US stuff. I won't eat US brands except what I make occasionally but my son has a sandwich addiction. Here's hoping the prices are reasonable and the rumors that the bread is good are true!

Thanks for replying, Melissa. How long have you known you have celiacs?

I was tested for wheat (negative) but not for celiacs (didn't fit the profiles). It could be that one of the preservatives in US bread was the culprit and that was why the fresh bread in Italy and France wasn't a problem. I have some anecdotal stuff about sodium benzoate but my allergist says there is no test for it yet. Have written to FDA twice without a reply.

jsaimd, am I correct that buckwheat is not really wheat?

Maybe it was on a fodor's thread but someone said she found out (the hard way) that there can be wheat in the glue on envelope flaps!

Melissa and jsaimd, all the best for your GF trip!

No buckwheat is related to rhubarb and commonly used in France.

I'm also glutin-free--no Celiacs though I get migraines from even moderate doses of glutin. I'll be in Paris May 5-12 and plan to make good use of these recommendations.

We were in Breton a few years back and the buckwheat crepes were my saving grace--so glad to hear I'll be able to find them in Paris as well. I loved them!

Melissa, I'll be eagerly looking for your gluten free food reports as I'm sure will all the other celiacs who have responded here! Just remember that you're eating for us all!

I've found France to be a great country for a celiac because the food preparers tend to be very aware of the ingredients used so they can tell you what is safe if you show then the GF card. Plus, tapioca flour is often used to thicken rather than wheat flour and sauces are reduced rather than thickened. One time a chef was quite insulted when I asked whether a dish included "ble de farine"!

I'm like you and avoid gluten completely as I react to even a trace amount and sometimes in unusual ways - like not being able to sleep for three days! This happened unexpectedly after dinner at a celiac friend's home. She suffered too but with the usual plumbing problems. It's actually probably lucky to be very sensitive so we aren't ever tempted to cheat.

How wonderful that you have almost four weeks in Paris! I'm glad you were able to find an apartment, humble or not, in a central location. We've stayed in the 6th twice and it was great. Montmartre will be a new experience for us.

Even though we know that people with celiac disease have a gluten intolerance rather that an allergy, I often explain it that way as it's just easier. Here's a couple of phrases for you and others:

Je suis allergique au gluten. = I am allergic to gluten.

J'ai la maladie coeliaque qui est causée par une intolérance au gluten. = I have celiac disease which is caused by an intolerance to gluten.

I'm finally here! Just got in this morning but had this to report -- Macarones. They're all over the place, gluten-free (made from almond flour) and delicious. The don't look like American macaroons (the coconut ones you get around Passover). They look like miniature hamburgers but are almond pastry with ganache or other filling in the middle. Tomorrow I will venture out to try buckwheat crepes. Just have to shake the jet lag! More soon.

Melissa, I've wondered about Parisian macaroons and now I know. Thanks! I'll be following your GF adventures.

Enjoy your introduction to buckwheat crepes! I love the galette complete with ham and egg and cheese so plan that as my first meal at a place close to where we are staying, near the Moulin de Galette of Renoir's famous painting.

I don't blame you, Moolyn! Today, I lunched at the creperie on David Liebovitz's website. Amazing, delicious, out of this world. Their buckwheat crepes are made of 100% pure, organic sarassin. I had the one with Norwegian smoked salmon and some sort of delicious fromage / creme concoction. They also have dessert galettes with specialty ice creams. I asked and they were able to make my chocolat banane dessert with a buckwheat crepe.

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2008/01/breizh_caf_1.html

I love this city. Moroccan food for dinner.

So, more delicious food -- I went to an adorable Moroccan restaurant in the Marais called 404. I had a tagine (traditional clay pot) of chicken, steamed pears and spices. The chicken was so moist it slid off the bone. Light and lovely. They had two different fruit desserts to choose from -- both delicious. One was a mixed fruit (all sweet and delicious) and the other was sweet oranges with cinammon and powdered sugar.

Lunch today was at Rotisserie du Beaujolais in the Latin Quarter. I guess I like chicken LOL. I had the rotisserie chicken and mashed potatoes. The server looked at me like I was nuts when I asked if there was any flour or wheat-based filler in the potatoes. Delicious.

OK, here I am again. I am definitely eating my way through Paris. Tonight was another great dinner. Le Relais de Venice in the 17th arrondisement. It was a little ways out but easy to get to on the Metro. It was recommended to us by a friend who grew up here. They only serve one thing -- entrecote and frites. It's delicious and GF, including the delicious sauce. And when you're done with your first plate, someone comes around and gives you seconds, which I've never seen happen before. They only have one wine -- the house red, which was pretty good. Large dessert list with good fruit selections.

Melissa, what a delicious report! Where in the 17th is Relais de Venice? We'll be staying in the 18th so it might not be too far from us. Perhaps you could add addresses for all of the places you like so others can find them.

I've noted the Marais creperie for a Sunday visit and I'll definately be having rotisserie and/or roast chicken sometime on our trip. I've always avoided Moroccan food because of couscous so I'm glad to know that it's possible. Afghan food is celiac friendly too I've discovered.

Hi Moolyn, Afghan food, huh? I just may have to give it a whirl. I can't get over how many different cuisines are available here. It's GREAT. So let's see...

Rotisserie du Beaujolais
19, Quai Tournelle
75005 Paris, France
+33 1 43 54 17 47

Le Relais de Venice
www.relaisdevenise.com
271, Boulevard Pereire Sud
75017 Paris, France
+33 1 45 74 27 97

OK and now for last night's dinner at L'Epi Dupin in the 6th. Probably one of the better meals I've ever had. Seriously, off the charts delicious. Flavors I can't explain. They have a set 3 course tasting menu for 34 Euro (although dinner got a lot more expensive after wine and adding the cheese course). You have approx 6 choices on a chalk board for each course. The waiter translated the menu to English for us and modified mine so that it was GF. They were extremely nice about the GF modifications. I started with a shrimp and chicken salad, then had beef filet medallions with sweet potato cubes and buttery mashed potato. We added a cheese course before dessert -- a super creamy brie and a sweet flaky cheese. Dessert was a chocolate glace with creme. I simply can't describe the extraordinary flavors in these dishes. It is really a special occasion place. Very small inside and reservations are very hard to come by (ours was at 10:45 pm but we only called the day of).

L'Epi Dupin
www.epidupin.com
11, Rue Dupin
75006 Paris, France
+33 1 42 22 64 56

Still in love with this City...

Mellisa,

Thank you so much for your reports! It is perfect timing for me as we are leaving next week for Paris with our 16 year old daughter who has had celiac disease for 11 years. We have travelled to many countries, but never Paris and I am so nervous about this trip.
Glad to hear about the Macarons. I was wondering if they were gluten free. They look so good in the pictures.

Are you planning on dining at Des si et des Mets while you are there? It's located at 63 Rue Lepic in the 18th. Supposed to be totally gluten free including the bread.
I was hoping to hear from someone who had tried it before we get there as I have found only a few reviews on french webpages. All good reviews.

Looking forward to hearing more.

Beth

Hi Beth,

So glad you're enjoying the posts. I'm enjoying the eating! Lol. Don't be nervous about GF dining in Paris. So far I have found Paris to be fairly easy to do gluten free. A few places have been sticky but not too bad. I did stop by Naturalia (there are maybe 10 of them around the city) and they had a small but good selection of GF treats, including GF madeleines. I also brought about 10 Kind bars from home in case of emergency. I've had to use them twice.

Although I'm skipping most of my don'ts on these posts but wanted to mention Market (in the 1st District). We went there for lunch. It's beautiful inside and pretty but I had a bit of a rough time ordering, which was a bit of a surprise because its a somewhat upscale restaurant. The server spoke good English and said he understood gluten but then he told me that he didn't bring the rice to the table because of the gluten. Yikes. So then I got all worried that he had no idea what gluten is and it was a whole roundabout. I finally got a dish that was GF but it didn't taste great. I only mention this because it was too expensive to have only had a so-so experience.

Two other words of note: although the macarons are GF, if your daughter is especially sensitive you may want to be sure that there is no cross contamination with flour during baking. I'm finding that some use the same equipment to process the flour-based treats. Finally, I am a little congested today so I bought some decongestant at a pharmacy. Turns out it contains wheat starch.

But on the whole, eating GF hasn't been bad. I'm planning to check out the GF resataurant in the 18th at some point but probably not until late next week. If you get there first, definitely let us know how it goes!!

I'll keep the updates coming. Anything we can do to help make the process easier for each other is great!

Happy and safe travels. Back at ya soon.

Hi Melissa,

We are not going to actually be in Paris until May 30th as we are going to London first, so I'll be looking forward to your review of Des si et Des Mets.

I received another recommendation from a member of the celiac listserve. From a woman who has been to Paris several times and very recently....
There is a bakery in the 5th...96 rue Mouffetard that has "an excellent selection of FRESH bakery in addition to the fairly sizable gluten free section with a lot of packaged bakery. The fresh pastry is behind the cash register, and is with all of the other fresh breads...the GF stuff was on top, hence the crumbs travel down" in case of worries about cross contamination.

We don't worry about cross contamination issues as my daughter is not sensitive.

Thanks for the comment on the restaurant in the 1st. We are staying in an apartment in the 1st, so I'll avoid it.

Beth

Melissa,

Sorry, I forgot to mention the name of the GF bakery in my above reply. It's called Rendez-vous de la nature, 96 Rue Moffetard 75005.

Beth

Melissa, thanks for the addresses! This report will be a great reference for other celiacs visiting paris in the future.

If you like mussels, there is a chain of restaurants in Paris called Leon de Bruxxels (spelling?) specializing in moules frites. You can search for it here as it has been mentioned several times.

Beth, thanks for the information about the bakery with fresh gluten free bread. It's not near where we are staying but we will probably get down that way. We'll be staying near the new gluten free restaurant and I'm hoping that they might sell bread there since they provide it for diners. How long are you in Paris? we arrive June 5th.

Hi all,

I have more fun to report today. Today I was dreading L'As du Falafel in the Marais, watching everyone enjoy their falafel at the "best falafel known to womankind" (lol). I decided to be brave and see what they could make me that was GF. The place is mobbed and you stand at a counter and get rushed through the line so I can' believe I gave it a whirl. SUCCESS. After handing the guy behind the counter my GF card (and watching as he grew increasingly more horrified by the things I cannot eat), I got a delicious bowl of shawarma, eggplant and some sort of crispy shredded veggies. They were super nice about it and I think they learned a little about gluten at the same time. I wish I could post photos here because we got a very funny photo of me in front of the falafel place with my plastic tupperware filled with shwarma AND my GF card. So funny. Anyway, if you are with people who are dying to get the falafel, there is a GF option out there.

Off for jazz....

More soon!
Yours,
Brave and Gluten Free in Paris.

Crispy shredded vegetables....raw? like a salad or slaw with a dressing?
I'm not gluten free, more of a low-wheat person, and I agree with some of the others about being able to tolerate some wheats or breads better than others. I think it's got to do with the types of wheat used for different types of cooking and baking. Funky store bread like orowheat, that overly soft stuff with lots of added ingredients causes symptoms (usually headaches, sinus pain, and constipation) whereas breads w/ wheat, yeast and salt are more tolerable. But not usually more than a couple days in a row.
I was in Spain earlier this year and noticed lots of gluten-free emblems on the items in the grocery store. Maybe you could check it out there in Paris.

I was at Rendez-vous de la Nature last week--based on the Glutin Free Paris recommendation, it was our first stop after checking into our apartment. They did have a large glutin free section--maybe three/four shelves high and 6-8 feet long--more than what is in most health food stores in the states. In addition, food in general seems to be marked with "GF" on the label when appropriate. We bought rice pasta to make in our apartment and some really delish GF chocolate hazelnut wafer bars made by Schar--I brought the label home to the US in hopes of finding more--made in Italy--would have bought a case if I'd known how yummy they were--for 0.5 Euros. Good texture and flavor, nice crunch. Great snack food.

Unfortunately, they were totally sold out of the GF fresh breads on the day we were there, so my advice is go early in the day for that or call ahead. Didn't try any of the prepackaged GF bread, though they had a big selection.

In the refrigerated section I bought some GF baked tofu with garlic, which I cut up and put in the sauce for the rice pasta. The Fran-Prix sells jars of tomato sauce with green olives--small jars so I needed 2, mixed with one jar of organic tomato sauce. Served this to several non-veggie guests who loved it--the baked tofu had a really nice texture.

Rue Moffetard is an amazing street with tons of little shops and activity. A further walk from the Marais than we bargained for, but lively and entertaining.

As for the devine L'as de Falafel--their crunchy veggies were thin slices of cucumber, purple cabbage, carrots and beets, (as well as big chunks of creamy aubergine) and you select what you want/don't want to have with the tahini sauce. We stayed just steps away from the stand and they were kind indeed.

Hi all, Today I stumbled upon another earthy market with a fairly large gluten free section. It was in the 6th on the Rue de Cherchi Midi. I had my hands full so I only bought a small bag of chocolate chip mini cakes and cookies that look like fig newtons. They had GF croissants! that I only skipped because the package was too large to carry.

I found out that the GF Schar wafers I loved so much in Paris are available in the states as "Dr. Schar Chocolate Hazelnut Bars" (snack bars). They are available on many US sites sold in boxes of 3, however, at about 2-3X the price of 3 bars in France.

So if you run across them in Paris, you might want to stock up! They are called Quaalritos and sold individually.

Melissa, I really enjoy hearing about your finds! Sounds like you're having a grand time.

Hi Melissa,

Do you remember the name of the earthy market you found on the Rue de Cherchi Midi?

We're leaving one week from today and I'm putting all of my GF info together.

Thanks so much for all of your reports.

Beth
P.S. If you can find the Schar crackers called "Salti", get some. They are the BEST GF crackers we have ever had. Cannot get them in the US. We bought them in Italy 3 years ago. They taste just like Ritz.

Viola! as they say here in Paris (it still makes me laugh every time I hear it):

Bio Generation
70 Rue de Cherche Midi
75006 Paris

AND turns out its a chain:

http://vg-zone.net/2007/07/23/bio-generation/

Dear GF friends,

Another off the charts delicious meal tonight. Tonight was Indian food at Yugaraj in the 6th. Another poor server who shook his head at all the things I cannot eat but it didn't matter. Everything we ordered was GF. Chicken tikka, saag paneer, homemade yogurt with cucumber and tomato, and biryani rice with dried fruit and pistachios. So, so delicious. And lovely service.

14, rue Dauphine
75006 Paris
www.yugaraj.com

I love eating in Paris.

Dear friends,

Today was Des si & Des mets for lunch! What a wonderful, delicious treat. It was a price fix menu ($26 euro for appetizer, main course and dessert) but we added a bottle of water and two kir royales so it was a bit more for us. Food was delicious (and SO nice to be able to get bread at the table that you can eat!). I had the roasted veggie appetizer (which came with an olive tapenade that was delish on the table bread), pasta (made from corn) with veggies, and chocolate cake (like a small flourless cake). Delicious. Friendly service. Darling decor and clean bathroom (it gets an 8 on the 1-10 scale Lol). And extremely convenient for our visit to the Sacre Couer today. BIG HUGE thumbs up!

Only thing -- I'm told that the area is a bit sketchy at night so lunch is probably a better option. We didn't have any trouble during the day (except an unwanted squeeze of the derriere and more gypsies and pushy African salesmen than I usually see)

BUT it's a definitely must go, esp. if you're going to the Sacre Couer.

Oh, and I learned that the name of the restaurant literally means something like "With buts and with ifs," which is brilliant really. "I'd like the sandwich please BUT without the bread." Or "I'd like the sauce, if you can make it without flour." Still giggling about the name.

Go forth and eat GF bread!

Onward and upward friends.

Hi Melissa,

I'm so excited to hear about the GF restaurant. We are leaving in 4 days for Paris and will definately try it.

One question...my daughter is the celiac in our family and has a very small appetite.
Can you order a la carte on the menu or do you have to order all three courses?
I have noticed on many menus that there is a fixed price that included 3 or 4 courses which my daughter would never be able to consume in one sitting.

Thanks for your report.

Beth

Hi Melissa,

One more thing I forgot to ask...
Are reservations necessary for Des si et des Mets? Wasn't sure how busy a gluten free restaurant would be.
We've been to some in NYC that were surprisingly packed.

Thanks again,

Beth

Melissa, I hope the area isn't too sketchy at night since we'll be staying nearby! Guess we'll find out soon. We arrive on June 5th and I'm looking forward to Des si and Des mets and other places you have recommended.

Orgnizing my notes I came across another GF friendly restaurant, Le Reminet, in the 5th. The chef has a wife who is celiac so they are knowledgeable. It's a tiny place and crowded so booking ahead is essential.

I've read some reviews critical of the service but it's been recommended here on Fodors, even by non-celiacs, and it's open on Sunday! For some reason my mouse isn't letting me paste but search for "Robjame Paris Food Reports" and you'll find a good review by one of Fodor's favourite foodies.

In one recent guidebook I noticed that they offer a bargain 13 euro lunch!

Le Reminet, 3 rue Grand Degres, near the Seine, almost directly across from Notre Dame. www.lereminet.com 01 44 07 04 24

Bookmarking for my favourite gluten-intolerant who will be honeymooning in Paris and the Pyrenees next year!

Hi friends,

Beth - I didn't inquire about a la carte at Des si et Des Mets, but I can't imagine that they wouldn't accomodate you. They were really very lovely. It was not crowded, but it was raining at the time.

Moolyn - I'm told that the area is only sketchy at night near the Metro stations. I guess its because its near the Moulin Rouge and other similar cabarets. I'm told that the residential areas further up the hill are fine and lovely so I'm sure you'll be fine!

We may have to check out Le Reminet! Sounds great!

I also forgot to mention a terrific find near Notre Dame. The place is called Petit Plateau (but the window only says Salon de The). Its a sandwich and salad place so we obviously had salads! but what a salad!! DELISH and large for hungry Americans. One was butter lettuce and warm goat cheese (ask for sans bread) with a lemon vinegar dressing. The other was hearts of palm, corn, avocado. Beautiful presentation. Lovely service.

Petit Plateau
1, Quai Fleurs
75004 Paris, France
+33 1 44 07 61 86

Dear Moolyn,

Merci, Merci, Merci! We hit up Le Reminet last night and it was DELISH. Very fortuitous. (BTW, it got great reviews when I googled it, even from the foodies on Chowhound, which is sayng something!) It was a VERY warm day and we walked up, without reservations, and got one of the 4 tables on the sidewalk (actually seemed uncomfortably warm inside when I went to the bathroom but we were thrilled). As we were being seated, a woman leaving said it was her second trip to the restaurant in the SAME TRIP. Wow! Anyway, the food was outstanding and it was probably the first time (aside from Des si et Des Mets) that the server definitely knew what it meant to be gluten free without the handy-dandy card. I had tuna tartare for my appetizer, sea bass for entree and a delicious rhubarb dessert with strawberries and mascarpone and chocolate drops. So, so good. The server was a bit surly until we started in with our sad excuse for French. He and a person who seemed like maybe the owner? really seemed to appreciate our efforts. Tres bon! Delicieux!

So, thanks again! Recommendation was great.

Just thinking about the macarons and thought I'd mention my favorites. I have checked with these two Patisseries (they each have mutiple locations) and confirmed only almond flour is used. No wheat. Hurrah.

We had a delicious lunch at the Lauderee in the Printemps (1st floor). I had a salad with grilled chicken, cucumber, tomato and a dijon mustard sauce. Yummy.

Lauderee
http://www.laduree.fr/

Dalloyau Patisserie
http://www.dalloyau.fr/accueil.html

Favorite flavors are chocolate (can't help it. I am addicted!), rose, pistachio, caramel and cassis. Yes, I've been on a macaron binge. Lol.

Melissa, I'm pleased that Le Reminet worked out for you and look forward to following many of your recommendations in just a few days! I've been telling my husband all about your great GF dining experiences.

I'm excited to try macarons now that I know they're safe. My favourite treat in France is ils flottant - custard topped with soft meringue and sometimes a carmelized sugar sauce. I've been known to choose restaurants simply because ils flottant are on the menu so I can relate to your macaron addiction!

We arrive in Paris on Friday morning. Will you still be there? Maybe we could have a mini GF Paris GTG.

Oh Moolyn, we're just missing each other or else I would have loved to share a GF meal together! We could have practically done a high five (or as my sister calls it now, a high cinq LOL) as we passed each other at CDG! But, I will keep following this thread so I can hear all about your GF adventures. I'm hoping we all keep this thread up to date so our fellow GF travelers can benefit from our experiences. I'm really looking forward to hearing all about it and will enjoy living vicariously through you.

Safe travels!!

Melissa, je suis desole mais c'est la vie! I promise to add my GF experiences to your thread and hope other celiacs do as well so that this will become the Paris GF Superthread for celiacs from now on. Thanks so much for starting this, especially at such a perfect time for me to take advantage of your GF experiences in Paris and follow in your footsteps!

Here I am in Paris - overdosing on art, walking and great gluten free food. Our apartment on rue Tourlaque is actually a perfect location for an art loving celiac!

Next door is a cute, pink house that was once the studio of Toulouse-Lautrec. Walking uphill two and a half short blocks brings us to rue Lepic. If we turn right, we can see Naturalia with three kinds of fresh, gluten-free breads, teff, quinoa and sarasin, plus other gluten free goodies. A few buildings further along is Lepic Assiette with Breton style crepes and across the street is a building once inhabited by Van Gogh and his brother. If we turn right instead, just around the bend of winding rue Lepic is Des Si et Des Mets. It's like being in arty, celiac heaven!

My first meal here, on the day we arrived, was at Lepic Assiette as planned: 35 rue Lepic, tel 01 42 55 95 95. I was ravenous because I didn't eat much of my GF airplane meals. My husband ordered just a a galette complet with ham, emmental cheese and fried egg for 7.50 euros, plus a coke. I decided to go all out with the weekday Midi special of an emmental and ham galette, a quarter litre of cider and a dessert crepe. Although they said no substitutions, they were quite willing to make my dessert crepe with ble noir, another name for buckwheat I discovered, so I had my first Nutella crepe experience. I realized then why sweet crepes are usually made with wheat flour; buckwheat has a more intense flavour that is perfect for savoury fillings but perhaps a little overwhelming for sweet ones. I say perhaps because I'll have to do some more research to make sure. The filling of the savoury crepes was spread all through, something that doesn't always happen, but the ham seemed to have been finely chopped for better distribution. The cider was great too and a perfect galette companion drink. My meal cost just ten euros which actually ended up being less than my husband's smaller meal because his coke cost four euros. Wine would have been cheaper.

Having decided to be low key the first day and just explore our neighbourhood and stock up with some food supplies, we shopped at Franprix and some lovely little boulangeries and delis and ate in the first night. My dinner was a cheese omelette with leek, snow peas and chantarelles. I hadn't been able to find any nice mushrooms on our expedition but noticed this melage described as a salad in a store window and the clerk was very approving when I asked if it would work in an omelet. It did and he gave me lots more than I needed so I had the same thing again tonight, Sunday, with not much open in Montmartre except uphill on the touristy Butte.

Hi Moolyn! I can exactly picture where your apt is and it sounds like a fabulous location! How wonderful! I never actually had Nutella on my buckwheat crepes but I had a few dessert crepes with the ble noir and enjoyed them. I think this means you need to keep trying with the dessert crepes! Lol.

I'm home and celebrating my birthday tomorrow. I keep turning 23. Has nothing to do with Paris but I had a moist, delicious gluten free red velvet cake from my favorite bakery. They ship and everything is really outstanding. Hands down the best GF baked goods I've ever had (well, except maybe those macarons! and was a lifesaver when I first kicked gluten).

http://thesensitivebaker.com/

Looking forward to hearing more about your Parisian culinary adventures!

Melissa, I hope your birthday was a happy one! I'm impressed that you were able to report so often during your stay in Paris as I'm usually too exhausted by the time we return to add anything to this thread. No more crepes for me yet but not for lack of trying. We just are never in the right place at the right time. I am so grateful that our kitchen is always just a subway ride away.

We went to Des Si et Des Mets one evening and it was lovely not having to worry whether what I was eating was safe or not. My husband even liked the GF bread. We had a hard time choosing from the menu, however, as we didn't understand the cooking terms and our server just kept saying she couldn't explain. I had an assortment of duck to start: rilettes, pate and smoked. My husband had salade fleur with edible petunias as garnish. We both chose Chateaubriand; mine was great while my husband's was chewy. Our server didn't care. For dessert we both selected creme brule. It came flambe with a flourish. Our meals were each 28 euros, a two euro supplement for the Chateaubriand, plus 24 euros for a bottle of nice rose. We asked if service was included and were told no but by then the charge had gone through so we ended up leaving all of our change.

We discovered that the owner was a celiac who got tired of having to explain her dietary restriction when she visited restaurants so she opened her own. I thanked her for her restaurant sans gluten but hope she will have an English translation or a more helpful server next time we return to Paris as she is on the right track. Overall the meal was good and we were pleased that the restaurant was full by the time we left to walk uphill to see the Eiffel Tower light up from our perch on Sacre Cour.

Our next restaurant experience was Chez Toinette on rue Germaine Pilon, about a block and a half south of rue Abbesses near the art nouveau Abbesses metro station. Tel 01 42 54 44 36. I had read many recommendation for this Provence influenced bistro both on Fodors and in guidebooks and it was close which was handy on a rainy night. The waiter was very helpful and took my GF card to the chef to make sure my choices were fine. He returned to say the chef would change the sauce on my main course. To start, my husband had marinated white asparagus and I had hot pan fried prawns on salad. Both starters were wonderful. My husband ordered beef stew which he loved and said was like beef bourgignon. My plat was duck breast which was very good good and the accompanying vegetables and cooked apple were a treat. We had a bottle of Provence rose with this. The quantities were large so we didn't order dessert. Our bill was 73 euros. When my husband asked whether service was included the waiter told him that it is the law in France that service is always included! Good to know.

Yes, tipping is included. Not sure what happened over at Des si et Des Mets. Maybe it was a language barrier. When we were there, we had a server that spoke good enough English to translate the whole blackboard menu to us and it was great. Have you had any other noteworthy GF eats??

Its so great to read about all the GF choices in Paris...definitely a reason for me to plan another trip there I have recently discovered that I am allergic to both wheat and dairy and we have a holiday coming up to Switzerland. I am carrying along several packages of rice cakes and some brown rice pasta and some rice...but does any one know of any GF options /bakeries etc. in Switzerland? We will be in the Bernese Oberland area.

Many thanks
Deepa

Deepa, I don't think you will have to bring so many GF supplies with you. Rice is available everywhere and there are wonderful German GF breads and snacks as well as Italian GF pasta that should be readily available there. The Swiss are excellent chefs and make things from scratch, like the French, so you shouldn't have difficulty in restaurants.

Search gluten free and celiac and other variations here because I think that somebody may already have posted about eating gluten free in Switzerland but it may be under another topic like this is. Or start your own Gluten Free Switzerland thread to attract the people with GF experience there.

If your problem with wheat and dairy are intolerances rather than alergies, you may find that you are able to tolerate more dairy as your small intestine returns to normal and the enzymes that digest lactose reappear.

Melissa, I'm sure we had different servers at Des Si et Des Mets. Ours was very pleasant and apoligized that there wasn't an English menu, but she wasn't willing or able to try to explain the dishes available. I've had the same problem with servers in England, however. They know what it is but can't put it into words and for us it's important.

I have some more Paris GF suggestions and may have time to work on them today. We are presently in England in an exchange home, waiting for a friend to arrive. Home exchanging, just like renting an apartment, is a great idea for travelling celiacs. Our exchange partners even left some GF bread and Italian GF pasta for me!

Thank you so very much Moolyn for your very useful reply. I do have severe nasal allergies (and sinusitis)so it is a bit more than intolerance but I am starting to incorporate some dairy slowly - have started with yogurt and it is going well. Not the same with wheat I'm afraid - even a half slice of bread has me in a bad way by the next morning.

Will start a new thread on GF Swiss and see what I get...

Deepa: this is a long way from travel, but Moolyn is a mutual friend to celiacs everywhere and I wanted to support her point. It is subtle but it is very important and I have seen the proof myself.

The dairy part of the allergy may go away as you become more rigourously gluten-free. This has occured with a family member. But the gluten intolerance is sadly not so predictable and your half slice of bread trial could set back the progress you have made with the dairy.

It is a stubborn fact of life that TOTAL abstinence from gluten is the only way to heal. But the good news is that more and better food choices appear annually for travelers!

Thanks so much for your reply LJ. I had never thought of it that way. Very happy to hear that I may be able to handle more dairy in my diet (I am missing those cafe lattes but I think the wheat /gluten free life is a tough one especially when I travel...esp at breakfast times.. but you have given me some new ideas to work with which I am very grateful for..

Deepa, you wrote that you have allergies to both wheat and dairy but it doesn't sound like you have been tested for celiac disease yet and you should be, with these allegies. Google celiac disease and see if you fit the profile so you can discuss this more knowledgeably with your doctor.

Celiacs have an intolerance to wheat and usually to lactose as well, which are different than allergies, but many of us are allergic to wheat as well as intolerent, making it a bit more complicated. Celiacs typically have lots of food allergies which tend to alleviate once we carefully follow a zero tolerance gluten free diet.

As LJ points out, cheating just a little can upset your system for some time if you are a celiac, because any gluten will damage your small intestines, even if you don't have any outward reaction, like Kyliebaby's mom with baguettes. If you have an allergy, you can often desensitize by avoiding that food for a while but this is not the case with gluten intolerence so it's important for you to find out. Another reason is that it's easier to avoid just wheat than gluten.

Very good thread Melissa, a lot of information

I am going to Paris soon and I am looking forward to eating crepes, visiting the gluten free restaurant, etc.

Came home yesterday after a 2 weeks visit in France, and we ate out 7 times and I wasn't sick once!! In my experience it's best when we don't choose the cheapest restaurants.

It's becoming more and more easy to eat gluten free food in France I think. Italy is best though

La Norvegienne

Bookmarking for my celiac daughter! Thanks!