Ger's Trip to Rome & Bologna

Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 06:25 AM
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Ger's Trip to Rome & Bologna

Hello all:

I am just back from a wonderful 13 days in Rome & Bologna. Thanks to all that helped me with trip planning advice.

The flights

I have not traveled with Alitalia for several years, due to several flight where service and punctuality were abysmally poor. However, my research revealed that not only were Alitalia cheapest for the dates I wanted (YES, cheaper than easyjet and Ryanair, as I almost always find if you book close to the time) but the Business Class fare was exactly the same price (£240 return) as the lowest economy fare – go figure! Added bonus was that the outbound flight departed from London City Airport, just a 30 minute drive from home.

I have to say that the service and food was excellent on both flights and I would not hesitate to recommend Alitalia. I was the only passenger in Business Class on both legs, which was marvelous, but the Economy section also looked pretty good. The flight attendants were impeccably well-groomed and wearing gorgeous 1960s style outfits reminiscent of the golden days of travel. The Business Class lounge at Da Vinci airport was top notch, with a large selection of delicious food and wine.

A word of warning re logistics at Da Vinci. You check in at Terminal 1, but the boarding gates are quite a distance from there. You have to walk/Shuttle to Terminal 3 (about 5 minutes) and go through Security, then take a train to the ‘G’ gates and go through passport control (or visa-versa). I suggest you build in at least 30 minutes extra to ensure you make your flight.

The Hotels:
As I planned this as a last minute trip, the hotels in Rome and Bologna were very expensive. I wanted to keep the daily rate (far) under £150 per night. I finally got a deal on a hotel in Trastevere (£950 for 7 nights) and was very pleased with both the location and the hotel. Bologna proved equally frustrating and I settled on a chain hotel just opposite the station for £370 for 4 nights. The last two nights in Rome I left open, hoping to get a better deal closer to the time. I totally lucked out – the Albergo del Senato had a last minute sale, and the two nights only cost me £380, which is very cheap for that hotel. I have wanted to stay there on every previous visit to Rome, but it was always either sold out or too expensive.

Trastevere: Trilussa Palace Hotel Congress & SPA
http://www.trilussapalacehotel.it/

Very good hotel in a very interesting area. Staff were very friendly and helpful and the room very comfortable, spotlessly clean and nice traditional décor. There is a tram stop just outside the door that brings you into Piazza Venezia in about 15/20 minutes and you can walk it in about 30 minutes (nice walk). Highly recommended. It is located further into Trastevere, about 10 minutes’ walk from the very lovely Piazza di Santa Maria. I had read some travelers find the Trastevere area somewhat ‘suspect’, which is quite a surprise (I live in London – if you want to see ‘suspect’ areas you should see some of the areas I travel through on my way home from Central to South-East London). It is a former working class area, but has been highly gentrified, but without losing much of its character. The people are ‘salt of the earth’ and it does have its own distinctive vibe. It is far less hectic than the more touristic areas of Rome, and offers a nice respite from the throngs. Definitely consider staying in the area, particularly if you are planning a longer stay in Rome. Another area recommended to me when I was in Rome was Monti, which is ‘hipster-central’ and tres cool.

Bologna: Mercure Bologna Centro
http://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-...ro/index.shtml

This is a typical four-star business hotel, devoid of any charm and right opposite the train station. It served its purpose and I have no complaints. It’s a 10 minute walk to the main square in the historic centre. The price included breakfast, which is fairly substantial.

Rome Piazza della Rotonda: Albergo del Senato
http://www.albergodelsenato.it/index.php

What can I say? It is just divine in every way. I had a room at the back, so unfortunately no view, but the room was perfect and quite spacious considering the price and location (room 315). Other rooms have a view of the Pantheon, but obviously cost considerably more and need to be reserved well in advance, as this hotel is highly recommended in every guide book and travel website, and for good reason. Service is five-star, as are the common areas, and the staff extremely friendly and helpful. Breakfast was included in the price, and delicious. Added bonus is the open-air rooftop bar, which unfortunately I did not have an opportunity to use, due to sickness and weather. I cannot recommend this hotel highly enough.

Next: The Food.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 06:49 AM
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Mangiamo!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 07:08 AM
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Ger, we loved our flights on Alitalia from Boston, and yes, the flight attendant uniforms and the food were great. From the US there is also the option for Economy Comfort, which was a good deal cheaper than business but way more comfortable than economy.

Eager to read the rest of your report.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:10 AM
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Looking forward to the report...visiting both cities next year.

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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:12 AM
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The Food:

Absolutely divine of course. Just as well I walked between 15K to 30K ‘steps’ each day, as I needed it to work off the calories.

When I travel, I generally just have one major meal a day, and I prefer lunch rather than dinner, as I like to start my day early and be back to the hotel by about 7pm, enjoy some Netfix movies or a book, and have an early night. Prior to leaving, I was engaged in a very intense project for many months (two years actually) and really appreciated getting a solid 8 hours sleep.

I did not have one bad meal in the entire trip. Many thanks to my pal Flygirl (Beth) for recommending the app Katie Parla’s Rome, which was invaluable (http://katieparla.com/). I also used Fodor’s recommendations, so thanks to all that take the time to post.

Life is too short to eat bad food and drink bad wine. I’d rather eat at McDonalds, or not at all, rather than pay lots of money for disappointing food. There is no reason to eat bad food in Italy, with a bit of planning. Obviously, avoid any restaurant right in the middle of the tourist areas, any that have pictures of the food outside the restaurant, and those that have ‘touts’ outside trying to herd you in. Not only is the food generally disappointing (although not necessarily awful), it is usually more expensive than good restaurants where the locals eat, that are within 10/15 minutes’ walk. These restaurants also generally have bloody awful wine, which is inexcusable!

I didn’t have a dining budget, but generally want restaurants at the mid to higher end, with linen tablecloths and napkins. For lunch, with two courses, half-bottle of really good wine, water and coffee, I averaged 45 Euros, which was much less than the equivalent in London. The big difference was the cost of the wine: An excellent half-bottle cost me 12/15 Euros, whereas I would spend that on a glass in an equivalent restaurant in London.

I’m not saying that I ate in the best restaurants in Rome, as I did not do a lot of planning beforehand, but I did use the Katie Parla app and the list of restaurants I had pulled from Fodor’s and other websites to at least know where the better restaurants were located in the general areas I would find myself in around lunchtime.

Day one: Jewish Ghetto - Piperno
http://www.ristorantepiperno.com/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html

My first meal in Rome, and one of the best! I had spent several hours in the Capitoline Museum, and this is just a short walk from there. Well, it would have been for a normal person that can read a map or follow simple instructions on the iPhone GPS; I got lost and lost and lost again. More about that later – I have the worst sense of direction,can’t read a map, don’t know my left from my right, and it was a source of constant frustration throughout the trip! On the positive side, I needed the extra walking to work off the food.

I felt a little under-dressed for this restaurant, and arrived hot and sweaty after getting lost for about 20 minutes. Located in a lovely square in the Jewish Ghetto, this is a well-establish restaurant catering for the very ‘well-heeled’ locals. Not to be missed. I would have eaten there again given the time.

I started with my very favourite Italian dish – Pasta alla Vongole (Pasta with Clams). I had it first in Rome several years ago, and have never managed to get the equal outside of Rome. It was simply delicious and by far the best I have ever had, or had later in the trip.

I then had the Lamb Chops – a huge plate of tiny baby lamb that was so sweet and tender. No veg, as I am on holidays and don’t have to eat my greens!

Two large glasses of excellent red wine from the Lazio (I think) recommended by the waiter, a large bottle of water and an expresso. Sorry, I never eat desert, as I don’t have a sweet tooth at all – I would rather have had another plate of the Pasta.

Service was excellent – professional older waiters in white jackets, which I love. Other diners were local business people in smart suits (which is why I felt underdressed) and a very wealthy and elegant couple from the USA (she had a Chanel handbag and shoes).

Bill was about 43 Euros.

More restaurants to follow….
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:32 AM
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Thanks for following along guys.

TDudette: More food to follow!

Jubilada: Glad you are here, as your recent trip to Italy was one of the inspirations for mine. You planted the seed.

MaitaiTom: I have enjoyed so many of your trip reports and photos.

Best … Ger
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:38 AM
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Loving the report so far! We are off to Bologna next weekend for a short break so can't wait to hear about that!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:49 AM
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jamikins - your trip report from Bologna a few years ago encouraged me to revisit Bologna. Bologna did not disappoint, but we had some fearsome weather - an eight hour thunderstorm!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 08:58 AM
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Wow that's a storm!!

So glad you enjoyed the city, we can't wait to return!!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 09:49 AM
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Day Two: Piazza di Spagna – Nino dal 1934, 11 Via Borgognona
http://www.ristorantenino.it/en
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ome_Lazio.html

It was Saturday, and Rome was filled to capacity: It was awful – noisy and crowded and sweaty. I made a mental note never to visit Rome again at a weekend, and decided I needed to get the hell out of there tomorrow. I had planned to visit Orvieto on Monday, but decided that it would have to be Sunday, as I could not deal with this mayhem.

I was up around Piazza di Spagna, and wondered if any decent restaurant would have a table. I needed a respite from the crowds.

Nino’s was on my list: A traditional family-run restaurant that serves Tuscan cuisine and caters for the locals who can afford to live in this area. When I arrived at 1300, the restaurant was already full with the locals. I put on my best pathetic, pleading face and asked for a table, not expecting a positive response. I was pleasantly surprised when they offered a table.

It was a great experience. There were linen tablecloths and napkins and waiters clad in white jackets of course. Everyone knew everyone else – it was like a private club. There was a massive amount of kissing and hugging, as people arrived and departed. There were babies in buggies, and the very ancients, clad in some serious jewellery. But the restaurant wasn’t posh, it was just a local eatery with very good food. Everyone was very pleasant.

I got my water and wine delivered pronto, which gave me time to peruse the menu and think about my trip the next day to Orvieto. Just as well, as this is not a restaurant where you can expect to eat and run, and, anyway, I was in no mood to brave the crowds again.

I am a creature of habit when it comes to food – I like what I like. I ordered the Pasta alla Vongole as a starter. It was delicious, but not quite as good as the dish I had had in Piperno. For the main course, I wanted to order the Sea Bass, but my waiter insisted on the John Dory. Not sure why, maybe they were out of Sea Bass. He carved it at the table, and it was absolutely perfect. He insisted that I had to have a vegetable (what, is he my Mammy?), so I accepted the Spinach with garlic, which was delicious.

It was a long and relaxing lunch. I was surprised to find a place like this, so close to the touristic area of Piazza di Spanga, where locals come to eat. Service was very friendly. Recommended.

Bill for starter and main course, two large glasses of excellent Tuscan wine, bottle of water and Espresso: 42 Euros
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 09:56 AM
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Next: Best meal of the trip in Orvieto.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 11:15 AM
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We found Rome horribly crowded, and not just on the weekend, though we did arrive on Saturday night.
We stayed around the corner from Albergo Senato; loved the hotel but hated the neighborhood.

Piperno was my second favorite meal in Rome, the first was Armando.
We probably should have escaped from Orvieto.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 11:20 AM
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Orvieto: Ristorante Al Pozzo Etrusco da Giovanni
http://www.alpozzoetruscodagiovanni.it/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restau...ni_Umbria.html


I always knew that I would have to escape Rome at some point, because of the noise and crowds, so I had planned a trip to Orvieto for the Monday. Saturday had proven traumatic re the crowds, so there was no way I was waiting until then. I was up bright and early on a glorious sunny Sunday morning, and took a taxi to Termini to catch the train to Orvieto (about 90 minutes). Train fare was the Princely sum of 8 Euros.

The weather was simply gorgeous, warm and sunny, and I walked the streets of this glorious medieval town, planning to visit the Cathedral later, after lunch, when Masses had finished. Every visitor to Rome should plan a side-trip to this town, if only to see the magnificent frescos in the Cathedral. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orvieto_Cathedral). It was so relaxed and easy in the town on Sunday, so different from the cacophony of Rome.

There were a couple of options for lunch, but I decide on Ristorante Al Pozzo Etrusco da Giovanni. I found it easily – even I can’t get lost in Orveito!

Being such a warm day, I sat outside. The menu’s English translation was rather odd, but amusing, so I never quite figured out what I ordered. For the starter, I feasted on the most amazing game terrine – I wanted to lick the plate! For the main, I had a Boar ragu with blackberries and stewed in the local wine, which I think was Bocconcini di cinghiale al vino sagrantino e mirtilli. It was simply amazing. I had a half bottle of the same wine (OMG – it was Nectar of the Gods, and only 15 Euros!), bottle of water and coffee. The service was stellar.

I think this was the best meal of my holiday.

Bill: 48 Euros
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 11:39 AM
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Jubilada:

I totally agree about Rome at the weekend, Its just awful! I discovered on this trip that part of my love/hate relationship with Rome had to with the fact that previously I have ONLY visited Rome at weekends.

Monday/Tuesday/Wednesday - Rome has an entirely different atmosphere, and I loved it. I also found that visiting the 'usual sites' in the early morning (8-9am) was lovely and peaceful. After that, it was horrid.

If you go again, I think Trastevere might suit you better.

Best Ger
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 11:54 AM
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just found this Ger, and enjoying following your trip very much especially as a trip to Bologna to the language school there is on the cards for me next March sometime.

Keep it coming.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 12:35 PM
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Ger, we were there mon and tues too.
Not much better. You're probably right
About Trastevere, if we go back (which is doubtful.) I liked it better there, for sure.

Looking forward to hearing about Bologna where I have not been for over 30 years.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 12:52 PM
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Love, love, love!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 01:09 PM
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OReilly:


Your description of the cuisine is a wonderful. I can almost taste each of the dishes. Thanks for this.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 01:19 PM
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Thanks for your tips for the restaurants in Rome, Ger. I'm making notes for our upcoming visit in late November.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 01:29 PM
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We got lost trying to find Piperno too! We were in the maze of tiny streets in a light rain, going in circles. Once we found it and had our dinner, it was all worth it. Food was delicious, served in a beautiful dining room. One of our favorite meals in Rome. Also loved Armando.
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