Ger’s Trip to Florence over Easter

Old Apr 28th, 2014, 07:19 AM
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Ger’s Trip to Florence over Easter

Hello all:

My heartfelt thanks to all of you that contributed to my threads, when I asked for advice and information regarding a very late booked Easter trip to Florence – you are better than any guidebook, and I am in your debt.

For the planners, here are links to my planning threads:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...for-easter.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-which-one.cfm

Introduction
At the beginning of April, I decided one evening to spend a long weekend in Florence over Easter.

I have been to Florence four times before, but have not visited in about 6 years. Easter was definitely not the best time to go, as I knew it would probably be crowded, and the price of flights and hotel rooms, at this late date, would be astronomical.

As expected, the price of flights from London were outrageous, and most seats were booked out completely for Thursday/Friday out and Monday return on all airlines. So, I decided to add a couple of days, and fly on Wednesday afternoon, return on Tuesday evening. On Cityjet from London City Airport (my local) the cost was £360, as opposed to about £700 plus, if I flew Thursday/Friday and returned Monday. So I booked it!

The Hotels
I then started looking at hotels, and was even more disappointed, but I was committed!
All the great B&Bs recommended by Fodor’s travellers were booked, and regular four-star hotels were priced at about £1500 and upwards for the period. It became clear that staying IN Florence was not an option, unless I was willing to lay down a lot of money.

Bluestar (many thanks to you) suggested I check out Hotwire.com, which I did, and very late one evening, I found a ‘secret hotel’; a Five-star villa, about 10 minutes by taxi to the centre, at £820, considerably less than I would have to pay for an equivalent in Florence. It was easy to check which hotel it was, as there was only one in the region, and it looked perfect. So, I booked the Villa Omli in Bagno Ripoli:
http://www.villaolmifirenze.com/en/

Next morning, I got ‘buyer’s remorse’, as I really wanted to stay IN Florence, and it continued for a few days. I was quite relieved when NYFS jumped on the thread and validated my choice, so I knew I wasn’t buying ‘a pig in a poke’. Its always a relief when one gets a ‘thumbs-up’ from someone that one kinda ‘knows’ on Fodors, and a seasoned traveller. Other travellers validated the option of staying outside Florence, so I crawled out of my cave, and started planning.

I asked Fodorites about day trips, and did a lot of reading and planning, and I got so seduced by the recommendations, I extended my trip until Thursday, for £60 change fee for the flight. I once again went to Hotwire.com, and found another ‘secret’ Five-Star hotel in Santa Maria Novella area. Again, it was easy to identify, as there are only a few. It was the Montebello Splendid. I was very content, as I had stayed here before, and had been very happy with the hotel:
http://www.montebellosplendid.com/

The Planning
Fodorites provided excellent recommendations as to how I should spend my time in Florence and the environs. I did some preliminary scheduling of my days, but was open to changes, when I discovered that the weather predictions were fairly poor for almost my entire visit; anywhere from light rain to torrential rain almost every day. However, I discovered that weather in Florence in about as predictable as weather in Ireland, and ended up being pleasantly surprised.

I did book the Uffizi and del’Accademia before I left from the following site, where you can book all Florence museums:
http://www.b-ticket.com/B-Ticket/uffizi/default.aspx

What to wear (Tongue in cheek )
Always a perennial favourite on Fodors! Well, this was MY Spring holiday, and I was wearing linen and cotton, regardless of any other advice and the weather forecast. As it turned out, it was a perfect choice, as temperatures were in the 15-18’s .

I can’t give any advice regarding spending 8 days in Florence with only carry-on luggage – its beyond my capabilities to pack like that. I intended to walk 8 hours a day, so there is no chance I would wear a shirt twice (eewww -ponging!), so that is at least 8 shirts, plus two for evening. I wore almost everything I brought. I will admit that bringing six pairs of shoes was overkill, and I am not sure where I was going to wear the pair of stilettos, but sometimes my shoes just need a vacation, and I can’t deny them

While I was wearing linen, the Italian women were bundled up in those ghastly black ‘puffer’ coats, topped with Burberry scarves, looking like the Michelin tyre logo-man. While necessary in Winnipeg and Wisconsin in November to March, I can’t understand why anyone could wear these coats in Firenze in April. Clearly, the ‘fashionista’ of Florence were in absentia.

Next: My intinerary

Best regards ... Ger
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 07:34 AM
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Oh, excellent start, and I love the villa!
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 08:56 AM
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My Itinerary

I considered the itinerary may times, and varied it during the trip, based on the weather and how I felt on the day. Of all the trips I have taken, this was probably the least I had planned, and yet the most successful. I think this was because of the brief planning period: I was more flexible, and not so committed to doing certain things on certain days.
Wednesday: Afternoon flight from LCY to Florence. Pickup by Limo to the Villa Omli. Dinner at the hotel.

Thursday: Dante’s walk through Florence. The Uffize. More walking. Lunch. Walk around markets.

Friday: Dell’Accademia. Day trip to Arezzo.

Saturday: A rainy day in Firenze: San Marco. Sante Croce. Churches. Lunch. Bargello.

Sunday: Firenze: The Easter Parade, Florence-style. The Exploding Cart outside the Duomo. Lunch. Santo Spirito area. P. Michelangelo.

Monday: Lucca

Tuesday: Pitti Palace. Lunch with Sarge. Boboli Gardens. Santo Spirito area. Palazzo Vecchio. Pizza in Santa Croce area.

Wednesday: Fisole. Branccacci chapel. Lunch. Piazza della SS Annuziata. Archaeology Museum.

Thursday: San Miniato al Monte. Giardino Bardi. Firenzi Synagogue. Lunch. Guicci Museum. Ferregano Museum. Santo Maria Novella church.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 10:08 AM
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Wednesday 16th April:

London City airport is just around the corner from me (25 minutes by taxi) Cityjet is my favourite airline, but I was disappointed to discover on check-in that it had been sold by Air France to some German conglomerate, which invalidated all my privileges, including checking in two bags and overweight luggage allowance. So I stated the trip knowing that it was unlikely I could do much shopping. I checked in one 25 KG bag, already over the 22 KG. limit, but they let me away with it.

Flight took off on time, and there was the usual free wine, but no spirits or sandwiches, as was usual under the old regime. I missed by G&T!

I had checked out limo services the night before I left regarding pickup, but none responded, so I asked the hotel to order a limo to pick me up, for 60 Euro. I could have gotten this for 50 Euros from the Limo sites I had checked out, and probably far cheaper by taxi, but I had no idea where I was going, so I bit the bullet. – last minute planning comes at a price unfortunately.

Lovely Limo driver picked me up and deposited me at the Olmi. I have to say, I loved it from the instant I arrived. It was a sunny sunset evening, and the air was so sweet and clear. The staff was warm and welcoming. I arranged dinner that evening in the restaurant and a seat on the bus for next morning to Firenze.

My room was in one of the outer-buildings (one minute walk), and was taken by ‘golf-cart’ with my luggage. The building had about 4-5 bedrooms, with a full kitchen facilities, dining room (seating for 12), two sitting rooms, so I assume it could be rented as a villa for a large extended family.

My room was just perfect. It was large, with lots of closet space, nice view over the gardens, great big bathroom with Jacuzzi bath and separate shower. Very civilized indeed! I was at home. All my doubts just disappeared out the windows. I highly recommend this gem!

After a bath, I wandered back to the main building to the restaurant. It was quiet that night; there were a few tables occupied by Italian, English, French and German patrons. I ordered a calamari salad as a starter, and Sea Bass as the main dish. First was OK, but ill-conceived as a dish and the calamari was a bit rubbery, but the Sea Bass was very well cooked. Portions were very large. I ordered a bottle of wine, drank a quarter, and brought the rest back to my room for future consumption. The food was not great, just competent, and was expensive for what it was, as one would expect in most hotels.

Next: A walk around Dante’s Firenze, the Uffizi, Lunch, the Markets.
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Old Apr 28th, 2014, 06:54 PM
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Sounds like a great trip.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 01:14 AM
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O'Rielly, sounds like a great trip. Will be following along. Glad the hotel worked out so well.

I got a kick out of your description of the locals in their puffer coats. Years ago I was in Sicily in late February where I thought the weather balmy and spring like. Many Italian gals were wrapped in fur coats. I suppose they are used to so much hotter weather than those of us from colder climes.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 07:38 AM
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Hello Ger,

Enjoying your report! Last time I was in Firenze over 7 years ago I swore I would never be back, it was so crowded. But you're making me reconsider... Looking forward to reading more!
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 10:30 AM
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Thursday 17th April Morning

The free bus leaves from the hotel at 0900 and 1000 each morning, and returns from Florence at 1730 and 1830 each evening to the hotel. There are also evening buses from the hotel at (I think) 1700 and 1800.

The birds woke me up, through my open window. I had slept hard and deep with that sweet air.

I was on the 0900 bus, and, as advised by NYFS, the trip takes about 20-30 minutes, not 10 minutes – important information to know if you have a definite appointment. Also, the bus deposits you at the sister hotel, the Hotel Lucchesi, on the banks of the Arno, due south of P. Santa Croce, a good 5-10 minutes walk to the Ponte Vecchio. You need to take this into consideration, if you are considering taking a train from SMN station, and build in the time.
http://www.hotelplazalucchesi.it/en/

I had purchased a ‘self-guided tour’ from Audible.com for this visit (available from Amazon also). There are four walks, and it is an excellent introduction to Florence. PDF maps are provided.

Walk & Talk Florence:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Walk-and-Tal...+talk+florence

I started the day with a walk around Dante’s Florence, exploring the oldest parts of Florence, which starts in front of the Duomo, and brings you through the streets through which he would have walked. Admire the magnificent doors of the Battistero and visit the Duomo, and marvel at Brunelleschi’s dome.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Cathedral

It was Good Thursday, so the Duomo was closed for Mass, so I could not get in, so explored the streets until it was time for my 1100 appointment with the Uffizi.
http://www.uffizi.com/

I am going to state the bloody obvious - please book ahead! The line-ups were horrendous – I reckon about two hours. I picked up my pre-booked ticket and was in the gallery within 15 minutes. I explored every nook and cranny, but it was so very busy, so I had little opportunity to enjoy the masterpieces. I spent less time that I thought I would in the Uffizi, simply because it was too crowded to enjoy. I decided to leave. Normally, I would have spent at least three hours there, but one must now when its time to leave the party. I have to go back at a quieter time to really appreciate, but it was worth seeing.

I continued the walk with Florence Walks, learning about Dante’s Florence, and the growth of Florence from a back-water, to a power-house of medieval merchants, and the growth of the Medici family – from pharmacists to cloth dyers to Princes, whose blood runs through most European nobility today. Was there ever a more successful family of social climbers?

Just beyond the very ugly P. Della Repubblica, there are the tiny mediaeval streets where the battles between the Guelphs and Ghibellines were fought in the early 14th century, the merchant-class Guelphs eventually defeating the noble Ghibellines families (the feudal nobility). There are a few medieval towers still extant.

Time for lunch, and I had not planned. My Everyman Mapguide of Florence (highly recommended for ALL cities, and always provides solid restaurant recommendations), recommended Da Pennello (Via Dante Alighieri, 4R), which serves both locals and tourist trade. It was excellent. I had Tuscan bruschetta to start, followed by a very large and well-cooked pork chop with potatoes, a salad, two glasses of red Tuscan house wine and a large bottle of water. I am prepared to recommend this restaurant – all was good!
http://www.ristoranteilpennello.it/en/


After lunch, I continued my walk, this time around the Market area. I don’t care for this area too much – it is rather run-down in places. Way back, when I visited the market on my first visit to Florence, back in the mid-1980’s, the market stalls carried excellent Italian leather items, and there were real bargains to be had. As I wandered quickly through the market, the changes were obvious. Most of the stall-holders are Bangladeshi/Pakistani/Chinese, selling cheap tat probably made by near-slave labour in factories with poor working conditions. If you decide to buy, be careful, you may be overpaying for the items.

Next, I visited the magnificent St. Lorenzo church, claimed to be the oldest in Florence.
http://en.firenze-online.com/visit/i...rence.php?id=4

I finished the day walking down the Via de’ Tornabuoni, the very chic shopping street where all the major designers are represented. Then along the river Arno to pick up the bus to the hotel.

Here are some photos from the day:
https://florence17042014.shutterfly.com/pictures/8

That evening, I planned for the following day. I had already booked my visit to dell’Accademia for 9 am, and had booked a taxi for 0815. The weather was going to be sunny and warm, so I decided to visit Arezzo, just over an hour by train from Firenze.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 10:48 AM
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While I was wearing linen, the Italian women were bundled up in those ghastly black ‘puffer’ coats, topped with Burberry scarves, looking like the Michelin tyre logo-man. While necessary in Winnipeg and Wisconsin in November to March, I can’t understand why anyone could wear these coats in Firenze in April. Clearly, the ‘fashionista’ of Florence were in absentia.>>

lol, those ARE the fashionistas, who apparently wrap up warm until May 1st, whatever the weather. In Sorrento in February, it was pretty warm the week we were there, 20C at Pompeii, but the italians were wearing their winter gear to a man! [or a woman]. Our italian teacher said that she was quite cold in those temps, but in the summer, when it's 40C+, she's comfortable whereas most of the students are boiling. It's just what you're used to, i suppose.

Great start - the hotel sounds very swish.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 11:36 AM
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Hi guys, thanks for reading.

Muskoka (from Toronto?), yes, the villa was grand indeed, and I did not regret my choice at all. As a matter of fact, as the crowds descended on Florence for Saturday-Monday, I was actually glad I was not staying in Florence. If on had a car and intended to drive around Tuscany, it would be an excellent choice, particularly for the rate I paid.

Peg, it was a great trip, one of the best for years.

LDT and annhig: at least fur coats ARE a fashion statement (not one I personally would make ), but those puffer coats ...


Cruisluv, do reconsider. Personally, I would never visit Florence during the summer months, as it is crowded, humid and hot. But outside those times it can be very pleasant.

Best ... Ger
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 11:39 AM
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Sandralist, aren't you a real charmer!
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 12:25 PM
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"...a real charmer!"

Talk about a buzz kill. I think I'd rather take a stab from the nasty-underwear stalker. Man-haters are always good for a laugh. After reading the greasy donut, I'm suddenly nostalgic for my younger 420 days, wishing someone would pass the bong, immediately.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 12:58 PM
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NYCFS: What is a 'nasty-underwear stalker' and a 'greasy donut'? Or should I not ask?

BTW, many thanks for the validation of the Vila Olmi- clearly, I loved it .
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 01:03 PM
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Some noise doesn't need to be explained. Life is already too short. I often write to amuse myself.

Delighted to hear you had a great time. Happy to help.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 01:57 PM
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Sandralist,

You wrote:

"Turns out Fodorites go abroad sneering at Italian women they see who dress to stay comfortable and well walking around what is to them chilly weather since they don't live in Ireland year round. Ghastly black puffer coats!"

Wow, that's cold as my students used to say. As is so often reiterated on this forum, everyone travels in his/her own way. Some folks enjoy planning their wardrobes and do not feel that one carryon is enough with rinsing tops or whatever in a sink every night is their way to go.

Sandralist, aren't you the poster whom Janisj recently called "Zeppole"? (sp.?) Now I get it.

O'Reilly, please continue with your elegant trip report.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 02:31 PM
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Thank you latedaytraveler, and I will of course continue .

Sandralist: Perhaps you missed the introduction to that section, where I said:

>. Perhaps you don't understand the term 'tongue in cheek'.

Regardless, I appreciate that you provided excellent advice when I asked for recommendations on day-trips from Florence, and I thank you for your time. I have no idea what prompted your vitriol. I will not respond to you again, and would appreciate if you do not visit this thread again.

Best .. Ger
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 02:39 PM
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Oh my, Ger! I was thoroughly enjoying your report and cannot imagine what prompted that nasty post by sandralist. So orry you were subjected to that.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 02:40 PM
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Obviously, sorry not orry....should preview but don't.
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 03:38 PM
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Thank you Judy, very kind of you. Report will continue


Best regards .. Ger
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Old Apr 29th, 2014, 03:46 PM
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Friday 18th April

Gallery dell’Accademia

Taxi picked me up at 0815 for the 20 minute drive to dell’Accademia (20 Euros).
http://www.accademia.org/?gclid=CLuM...FdShtAodERcAYQ

I arrived early, and was delighted to discover the gallery almost empty. Of course, we all go to the gallery to see David. I had never seen him before, as on every previous visit, I either could not get into the gallery, or he was off being restored. WOW, the statue is so stunning: his casual confidence, bordering on teenage arrogance, his androgynous beauty (well, from the neck up). He is alive, and had he broken out of his marble casing and walked out of the museum, I would not have been surprised. He is just sheer perfection, majestic, a legacy to total genius. If I lived in Florence, I’d probably visit every month, and see some new facet of his personality. Everyone will take away their own interpretation, but nobody will be disappointed.

But there are also some excellent religious paintings in the gallery that deserve attention. There are excellent early works from the 14th century, and I became a big fan of F. Lippi – such compelling devotional works. There is a room of Fra Bartolomeo paintings – he captures men’s faces well (as human beings, with a personality and a soul ), but his women are not humans– they are ethereal divine creatures, with NO personality – not surprising for a monk.

There is also a very bizarre room of plaster models, that defies description, but not to be missed – and do watch the video on how these plaster models were created and used to develop the marble statuary.

Although I saw most of what I wanted to see, I would have liked to revisit some paintings for a second viewing, but the gallery was filling up with tour groups, and the weather outside was fine, and I decided to leave, to get the next available train to Arezzo.

Next: A wonderful sunny and quiet day in Arezzo.
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