Ger's Trip report from Northern Spain and the Basque Regions

We knew that you are crazy, but you alsays get the most out of your travels. It looks like this was no exception. Glad you enjoyed it.

Crazy? No, One beautiful independent woman who writes, travels and takes photos better than most of us.

I've been on the edge of my seat waiting for yet another of your fine trip reports. Thank you for feeding my trip-report appetite!

Can't wait for the rest of the reports. The first installment contained so much helpful information!

From Biarritz to Fuente De

I arrived at 11 pm from Paris at Biarritz airport and stayed at the IBIS, about 7 mins drive from the airport, because all other hotels in the area were full. Its been a long time since I stayed at the IBIS chain. Well, the Biarritz IBIS is badly in need of renovation, but the rooms are large and I have stayed in hotels that claimed to be four-star, that were seedier. The staff was incredibly friendly and pleasant and, for 66 Euros per night, I was well satisfied with deal.

I picked up the car next morning at 10am at the airport and headed off to Fuente De on the main motorway, the E09. There are lots of roadwork's and, although I made good time, this route must be a nightmare at the weekend. The motorway weaves through the mountain ranges and it is a wonderful drive and with constantly changing scenery that kept me entertained and enabled me to ignore the endless conveys of 16-wheelers.

The drive from the coast to Fuente De, on route N621, rates is one of the most stunning I have ever taken: It varies between pleasantly delightful, as the road makes its way through green pastures and rolling hills, to absolutely breathtaking, as it follows the river and cuts a violently swath through the gorge; with massive mountains of rock on both sides of the road . There was not a moment when I was not overcome by the regions extraordinary power and beauty. Here are some photos of the drive:

http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?showSlide=true&Uc=e6up24t.7gv1qq6h&Uy=5s1mha&Ux=0


The Parador at Fuente De (4 star) is right in the heart of the Picos de Europa and an excellent venue for hiking (the only hiking Ger did was up and down the stairs, to and from the restaurant). The décor, is not likely to make it into Architectural Digest or Wallpaper ( think early 70s Golf Club). Service is delightfully friendly and helpful. I had a very large room, with covered balcony, overlooking the sheer mountain wall behind. I was surprised that they only charged me 70 Euros per night (single room rate); excellent value!

http://paradores-spain.com/spain/pfuentede.html


I dined in the restaurant that night, decided to be adventurous and ordered from the Spanish menu. I chose a dish with meat, cheese, garlic and potatoes and awaited in anticipation some Asturian culinary delight. What a dope: I had managed to order steak & chips with a blue cheese sauce It was, however, one of the best steaks I have ever had and cooked to perfection.

Next: Touring the Picos de Europa

It may be steak and chips but it is slightly different everplace you go! I think most countries have a version of this from my experience . Sounds good so far...tell more....

Touring the Picos de Europa

Photos:
http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?showSlide=true&Uc=e6up24t.3eh918fd&Uy=-lerbew&Ux=0

Next morning to bright sunshine. It would have been a good day to take the "overhead" to the summit, but I decided instead to get an early start to the long drive around the Picos de Europa. I had breakfast at the Parador before I set off. As with all the Paradors I have visited, Fuente De offers a fairly substantial hot and cold buffet.

The drive was challenging, and should probably not be attempted unless there are two drivers sharing the load. Total time from and back to Fuente De was over five hours, without stops. However, I am delight I did it. I ran out of superlatives after the first hour. Words cannot do justice to the astonishing, rugged beauty of this area. There is not one moment on this drive that is ordinary. Each twist and turn on the route reveals yet another stunning view, and the views and landscapes change so often that it drives you forward, with a passion and excitement, to see more and more of it

From Fuente De, I drove north to Potes and once again marveled at the shocking cruel gorge. Potes is a pleasant, rural town and I stopped briefly to take some photos. From Potes, I took the road to Puerto St. Giorgio at the summit. It is such a short a few inches on the map, only 30 Kms, but it is a long, challenging drive, as the road falls back on itself again and again. There are layers and layers of hills and mountains surrounding you as you climb; the stark gray peaks play hide and seek with wonderfully lush hills in the foreground. The weather was mild, a cool gentle breeze greeted me every time I got out of the car to take photos. Birds chirped in the hedgerow and, here and there, tiny hamlets appeared, carved out of their environment, so easy and comfortable in their surroundings.

There is a rather shocking and instantaneous contrast as one crosses the summit, which is the border between Asturias and Leon. I transitioned from lush green valleys of Asturias to the dry stony, starkness of Leon, within a matter of yards. Green is not just a colour, it is a concept. The greens of Asturias were are the lush hues of viridian and emerald and declare economic success, farming and contentment. Just over the mountain, the greens of Leon were dry, anemic hues. The rocks were covered with bright green lichen, as if the rocks themselves were bleeding; the grass was tough and yellow. I was surrounded by barren gray mountains, covered in lichen and yellow gorse. I could not believe the difference between the fecundity of one side and the starkness of the other.

As I drove into the valley on the other side of the mountain, the farmers were reaping the fodder from the side of the road. There were more villages, more hay, trucks moving hay from pastureland to housed animals. Every spare piece of land is cultivated; there is no waste. At the penultimate point on the drive, before I turned north again, the lakes appeared out of nowhere; what a wonderful sight.

The drive northwards, through the gorge and back to the coast, is extremely difficult and taxing, twisting like an angry snake as it follows the river. The isolation of this area must build an independent nature in its people.

I was glad to reach Cangas, at the bottom of the Gorge. I had intended to spend some time there, but was feeling weary and my senses were overloaded. I still had another two hour drive ahead, so I pressed on. This portion of the drive was much easier and more relaxing.

My hopes for an easy drive back to the Parador were thwarted by road-works. The workers directed me onto a much smaller road, over the mountains again. There is a point where one tires of natural beauty and one (this one at least) would prefer a Gin & Tonic and a ciggie while browsing through "Hello". Also, driving a standard car through this terrain is difficult and at this stage I had a muscle pain from my ankle to my glutus maximus and from my wrist to my shoulder! Lovely as this drive was, I would have preferred not to have done it. Arriving at Potes, through this circuitous route, I was suddenly reminded that I had not eaten since breakfast. I stopped at a local café for a very nice sandwich and was on my way again for the 40 minute drive to Fuente De.

I was too tired to eat that night, collapsed into bed at about 8pm and slept for 12 hours

Lessons learned:
? Fuente De is wonderfully located and ideal for hikers.

. If you are considering the drive I did, stay one night in the Parador at Cangas and one in Fuente De (this was my original plan, but Cangas was fully booked, as it often is.

? If don?t drive a standard car at home, don?t consider trying to drive one in this terrain. It was difficult enough for me, and I have only ever driven a standard car.

? I had read wonderful reviews of the Picos de Europa and was prepared to be under whelmed. I wasn't. This area is divine and almost deserted, so see it before the tourists hoards descend upon it.

Next: Eastward to Santillana del Mar

Ger, we did so much of the same on our trips! I'm excited to continue reading your report. We also drove to Potes and Fuente De- wow what a road. Talk about some white knuckle driving, eek!!!!

Wow! Your report transported me to my own travel in northern Spain which I just completed yesterday. I did the whole trip by bus which I found to be very comfortable and allowed me to concentrate in the landscape which, as you describe, is amazingly green and lush.
I was very lucky to stay for 2 nights at the Parador in Cangas de Onis and of all the hotels / Paradores we stayed in , this was my favorite. A very special place . While there I visited Covadonga and the lakes of Enol and Ercina up in the Picos de Europa. I wanted to do the canoeing down the river Sella but chickened out because by then I was traveling by myself. God willing , I will be able to return and continue exploring Northern Spain.
How did you like the Parador in Santillana? I visited Santillana while staying in Santander and the Parador looked very nice.

Great stuff Ger !
I will print this one. I like your style--both writng and travel.

Stormygirl, cruiseluv: There was probably one point where we were all in the same place at the same time

Bob: glad you are enjoying the report. I'll post more tonight.

regards Ger

I agree! Too funny......pinchos anyone?

Ger,

I was just thinking the same thing! Looking forward to your next installment!

From Fuente De to Comillas:

Saturday morning dawned fresh and cool, and gray clouds hung low over the mountains. I had intended taking the cable car to the top of the mountain, but the clouds showed no signs of clearing. Frankly, I will admit to being somewhat relieved, as it look really frightening!

After breakfast, I set off down towards the coast, once again weaving my way through the Valley of Liebana. Before reaching the coast, I made a brief stop at Lebena, to see the 10th century Mozarabic church of Santa Maria. This tiny enclave is unique, because it has a Mediterranean climate and both olives and vines are grown. The church is a tiny jewel! I waited and took the tour, in Spanish. Didn't understand a word, of course, but it is worth visiting the interior, to see its Greek cruciform layout, not obvious from the outside, the Visigoth vaulting and the ancient alter stone, which probably pre-dates Christianity. The church was being prepared for a wedding, and the organist, carrying her own portable electronic organ, and Soprano, were practicing, which added a nice touch to the tour. A word of warning for any of you with allergies ? the church stank of ancient mould and, within 15 minutes, I had to make my apologies and bolt for the fresh air. The wedding guests were assembling in the car-park as I left. I felt very underdressed!

I continued on down the N621 and then onto the N634 through the town of St Vincente de la Barquera. The town, formerly a fishing village and now a holiday destination for the "Madrilaneos", was just buzzing with holiday makers. I was very tempted to stop and explore, but I resisted and pressed on to Comillas.

I took a tiny road off the N634 (not named on the map), north toward the coast. The winding road, in very poor repair, appears to be used exclusively by locals, so it was a very relaxing drive. I was suddenly in the heart of the countryside. I could not believe it; I was certain I had gotten very, very lost indeed and had ended up in West Cork, Ireland! Honestly, this terrain is almost identical to the best farming land in Ireland. The stench of silage was overpowering, and reminiscent of previous drives through the bucolic rural landscapes of Ireland. At one point, an ancient woman flagged down my car, while her equally ancient husband escorted their Friesians across the road, from one field to another. I even met a handsome goat, who kindly allowed me to take his photograph. The weather was divine; it was warm, but there was a wonderful cool gentle breeze blowing in from the ocean, carrying the smell of salt and seaweed. This was the closest thing to heaven on earth that I have experience in a long time.

Here are the photos I took on the road to Comillas:

http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?showSlide=true&Uc=e6up24t.a236e6zt&Uy=-1mg4ah&Ux=0

Next Comillas

regards Ger

Comillas:

Here are the photos:

http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?showSlide=true&Uc=e6up24t.6m867b55&Uy=-hqoma5&Ux=1

Comillas is two towns: The inland town and the modern beach resort. Both have very different characters.

As I drove into the town square, I was a surprised that there were so many "old" cars, from the 60s and 70s: Renault 500s and 850s, MGBs, TR-7s, Jaguar XJS, older Mercedes and BMWs, all in pristine condition. I had happened upon the monthly meet of the local "classic car" club. How I wished I was driving our own immaculate 1978 Mazda RX-7; I would have fitted right in! I felt like the poor relation, as I carefully parked my very unimpressive Peugeot. God forbid I dent one of these beauties: The "faithful" would have hanged, drawn and quartered me in the town square!

It was early afternoon when I arrived, and all sensible people had retired for lunch. I remembered, not for the last time on this trip, that only "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun". Being neither a mad dog nor an Englishman, I still took advantage of the quietness to explore the old town. This day was the hottest on my trip, but it was only in the mid-80s, and there was a cool breeze blowing in from the sea. Comillas is odd and quirky and difficult to describe. I liked the old town and although not as pretty as many towns I explored on this trip, it has an honest, comfortable "lived in" feeling, which I appreciate.

I wandered around the old town for a while, until hunger got the better of me. I love good food but, when exploring, I often forget to plan for meals and find myself scavenging for scraps, like a stray dog. I finally found shelter and sustenance in a very ordinary outdoor restaurant, with a delightful view of the church. . While the food was not gourmet standard, the plate of calamari and glass of cold beer was like a feast in the hot afternoon sun, and the view was quite lovely.

After lunch, I visited the tourist office, picked up an excellent map and guide, in Spanish, and then walked down towards the bay. The beach resort is contained within a stunning semi-circular bay, with a high cliff on one side and a working harbour on the other. Modern vacation properties, white-walled villas with Sienna coloured tiled roofs, surround the beach. The beach area was crowded and I did not spend too much time there, quickly deciding that it was not where I wanted to be. .

I went in search of the graveyard. I know that this may sound strange, but I adore wandering around old graveyards and rarely miss the opportunity to do so. A graveyard is the one place that you are assured of complete tranquility, even in the most frenetic of cities. This graveyard has a beautiful view of the bay, and one could find no finer place to rest, living or dead. It does not appear to be too old (19th century), but it lies within the walls of an old monastery or church (15th- 16th century). Sorry about the vagueness, but I was working with a Spanish guide book. I enjoyed half an hour of total peacefulness, wandering around the cemetery, speculating on the lives and deaths of the inhabitants. Reading the inscriptions, the touching testaments to the dear departed, I wondered where they had buried the evil people: In all the graveyards I have visited, the dead always seem to have lead blameless lives and were beloved by everyone. I have never once read an inscription that said "Here lies a total evil prat that no-one every liked " In Ireland, it is said that you should never speak ill of the dead, in case they come back to haunt you, so I suppose that ancient superstition haunts every culture.

My calm restored, my soul content, I wandered back to the town, exploring some lovely streets with beautiful villas from the turn-of-the century to the 1930s, a reminder of a gentler time.

I picked up the car and drove to El Capricho. If you love the Modernist movement, then you must visit this Gaudi building, only a few minutes from the center of town. El Capricho is now a restaurant and you will have to dine there to see the interior, but for fans of Gaudi, and I am definitely one, it is worth a visit just to see the exterior. It took me years to appreciate Gaudi, as his style is outrageous, bordering on (and sometimes going beyond) "Kitsch". I have always preferred the calmness and order of the "classic" architecture of the Romans and Greeks and the reserved style of the Georgian period. However, after years of working on it, I finally gained an appreciation of his exuberance and humor and I now adore him. El Capricho is far from his best work, you have to visit Barcelona to that, but this is a joyous celebration of sunflowers and quasi-Gothic-Moorish confusion. It bears a remarkable resemblance to a "Lego"-built house, and I do think he might have been having a joke at the owner's expense!

I should have visited other sites in Comillas, the Palacio Sobrellano, the Universidad Pontificia, in particular, but it was late afternoon and I was tiring and eager to get on to my next destination of Santillana del Mar.

I admit that I did not spend enough time in Comillas to do it justice, but just enough time to appreciate it and know that I will return. Comillas would be a nice smallish town to use as a base to explore this region

Next: Santillana del Mar

Thanks Ger!
I now feel very guilty for not trying to get to Comillas from Santander. Not having a car does curtail how much travel you can do. I'll have to add it to my list of places to visit in my next trip of northern Spain. Thanks! looking forward to Santillana!

Bon Voyage to the UK.
Hello to everyone there.

Hello Mimi. I have arrived, safe and sound, in London after a 3 hour delay Business Class and champagne eased the pain of the delay

cruiseluv: Missing Comillas just gives you one more reason to go back. I never got to Santander, unfortunately.

Great to hear of your safe arrival. I hope Kavey will cook some Indian food for you.

Fantastic pictures!!! I loved your trip report. I will be visiting this area in May 05 and I just cannot wait

Ger: Great trip report!

cruiseluv: FYI - we took a daytrip (bus) from Santander to San Vicente de la Barquera, Comillas and Santillana del mar - had plenty of time to explore San Vicente and Comillas - dined in Santillana - very nice.

We also daytripped by bus to Potes (incl. Monasterio de Santo Toribio where the largest known fragment of the Cross on which Christ was crucified is guarded) and Fuente Dé. I had stayed in Potes on an earlier visit (Hostal Picos de Europa).

Don't take the 'meal included' package. You can do a lot better on your own: just order the Cocido de Liebana.

HI Nedsireland,

Was the daytrip an organized tour? I took the bus on my own and there was no easy way to make a connection that would cover both Santillana and Comillas. It was a Saturday and service was very limited.
Where were you staying when you daytripped to Potes and Fuente De?

for cruiseluv:
Both daytrips were organized tours. Be advised that all daytrips don't run every day. On an earlier (spring) trip I took a scheduled la Palomera bus Santander-Potes and spent a few days in Potes (at Hostal Picos de Europa). That was a Jubilee year for Santo Toribio (16 Apr); unfortunately Semana Santa was celebrated that same week, so the Jubilee Year festivities were delayed.

We were staying at Hostal Paris in el Sardinero when we booked the Fuente Dé / Potes tour. I paid the concierge at the Hotel next door for the tour and the tour bus picked us up there. The bus stopped very briefly in Unquera (rest stop); then it took us to the Monastery of Santo Toribio (via Potes), then to Fuente Dé and back to Potes for dinner.

I booked a San Vicente de la Barquera, Comillas and Santillana del mar tour at a Travel Agency in town - if you are in front of the Banco de España (facing the bank), go right to the corner, then turn left and its one of the first storefronts on your left.

It also departed from the Banco de España: to San Vicente for an hour or so, to Comillas for about 2-hours and to Santillana del mar for dinner and tourism.

We did the latter on a Thursday which was good because there was an outdoor market in Comillas that day.

Ger... unless I have missed something, this report remains unfinished, no? Stops with "Next: Santillana del Mar"... and then there is no more.

But there was more, I assume. Any notes from Hondarribia and/or San Sebastian you would be willing to share?

Thanks in advance... and...

Best wishes,

Rex

Hi Rex:

I will get around to finishing some day (I also have to finish my Montpellier and Naples reports).

I adored San Sabastian. I liked it so much on the first visit that I actually returned later in the week for a second visit. Actually, I think that it has replaced Barcelona as my favourite city. The city feels quite like Barcelona, but newer, as a massive fire in the 19th century almost wiped out the city. I walked the entire city and then along the sea front from one end to another. I took some great photos, but they were unfortunately lost when I had my last portable computer was stolen . I would definitely recommend it for a day trip at least, but I really think you should consider it as an overnight stop. On that same trip, I visited Biarritz, St. Jean de Luz, on the French side, but much preferred San Sabastian.

I also visited Hondarribia for a couple of hours and thought it a really picturesque little town. I was fascinated by how independently “Baque” the area is. As a matter of fact, I got hopelessly lost many times as ALL the local road signs are in the Basque language, the Spanish signs have been painted out!

I am afraid that I don’t have my notes with me (I am in the Hilton Hotel at Rome airport, picking up a car tomorrow and spending the weekend in Umbria). However, I followed the wonderful Maribel’s Basque guide almost exclusively. Here is a link to her website (http://www.maribelsguides.com/) . She is my FIRST travel resource for Spain; no guide book does it better.

A couple of suggestions:
- Read “The Basque History of the world” (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0140298517/qid=1115930139/sr=8-2/ref=pd_csp_2/102-3807379-0446563?v=glance&s=books&n=507846). It is a fascinating and well-written book about the history, politics, culture, cuisine of the Basque area, both Spanish and French. I “listened” to the book as I was driving through the area and it added greatly to my understanding and enjoyment of the area.

- I realize you are trying to fit a lot in on this trip, but try your best to explore the French Basque area as well as the Spanish. In particular, I loved Ainhoa, where I stayed, and driving from there through the countryside to St. Jean Pied du Port and San Sabastian. I will follow up later and send you links to my photos.

If I can find my notes when I get home next week, I’ll post more.

Regards Ger

Hi Ger,

Appreciated your timely comments about San Sebastian as I might visit for a couple of days in July.
Have you also been to Santander? If so, how would you compare the two cities?

Have a great time in Umbria! Where in Umbria are you going?

Hi Cruiseuv:

I hope you enjoy San Sabastian. I am hoping to visit again very soon. No, I never made it to Santander.

I pick up the car tomorrow morning and hope to see Orvieto before driving on to Spello. I will stay in the Pallazo Bocci and plan to visit Assisi, Perugia, Gubbio and Spoleto.

Regards Ger

Ger,

Lovely trip! Have a great time and please write one of your wonderful reports when you get back home.

Topping for Astur.

Regards Ger