Genova

Having recently returned from a weekend in Genoa, I can answer this question, although our time there was so cold that we didn't cover nearly the usual amount of ground.

Genoa is a port city, but with a very large centro storico which is largely pedestrianised, always a plus for me. The medieval carruggi are a labyrinth, as you say, and we were advised not to hang around that area at night, but during the day the small food shops were fascinating and we never felt unsafe. There has been an effort to upgrade the port area but an elevated roadway limits the possibilities. There are grander areas (the Strade Nuove) and a big indoor market, also the food is exceptional and restaurants are reasonable. If you like Naples or Palermo, neither of them tourist hotspots either, you will like Genoa.

By the way, we stayed in a beautiful hotel, La Locanda di Palazzo Cicala, fabulous design in an ancient palazzo opposite the cathedral, for 109 euro a night including a very good breakfast.

Thanks for offering your impressions. I never did make it into the city of Genoa on my trip to the region a few years back. Sounds like an interesting city and well worth putting on the "future" list!

Lack of major known attractions probably keep Genova off main tourist routes. I did not see any tourists anywhere in the city even in the port area, the one with a mast sculpture. So for those who don't like going to places frequently by tourists, this might be a place for you. However, this also means the locals sometimes don't know how to deal with you either.

What I remember from Genova are portico covered grand streets like Via 20 Settembre, usual Italian side streets, and tiny tiny streets. Metro during the day was ok. Compare to Napoli, Genova was more ordely, but I thought it also lacked the vitality I saw in Napoli.

There were some places in the city I didn't care to spend time even during the day. My taxi took a wrong turn and ended up in the middle of narrow streets with immigrant adults just hanging around in the middle of the day.

Absolutely loved it. Full of interesting nooks and crannies and little shops, bars and restaurants in open courtyards serving the best antipasto with drinks in the early evening. Lots of people around and lots of colour andlaughter. The waterfront area has been done up and has posh places with a great view of the harbour. Walking around the old town there are little churches to discover and plenty of street life. No big groups of tourists and no cruise ships that I saw. Don't miss it.