We've driven by the village a couple of time on the way up to Ronda or to Benadalid for lunch, but never stopped. It looks interesing (www.andalucia.com/gaucin/home.htm) and does have a few restaurants.

From what Andalucia.com says, it's becoming an artist village, and I would imagine you will find a few expats in the population of 2000 souls.

Have a look at www.theolivepress.es for a lot of info on Gaucin. Put Gaucin into the search fature. Unless you're from Lapland, you won't be swimming in the Med in Nov.

We stayed in Gaucin for a couple of nights on our last trip to Andalucia. We stayed at the Hotel el Nobo, an interesting small bed and breakfast on a hill with a distant view of the Mediterranean owned by excentric English expats. The rooms were very nice and the infinity swimming pool was lovely with the best view. We could often see Africa. We didn't find much to do in Gaucin. It is a rather sleepy village with pretty houses but not much commercial activity. We hiked and drove to Ronda and other villages for lunch and sightseeing.

The hosts provided at least one dinner while we were there and the conversation was quite incredible with most of the guests heaping great scorn and ridicule on the US President - not the current President - for starting all the wars in the middle east. While we were mortified most of the evening, the food and wine were excellent and plentiful. The breakfasts were wonderful and came without commentary.

I should think Gaucin would be a good base but is not especially interesting in and of itself.

I have not been lately, but friends have confirmed what mamcalice says above.
About sidetrips, it is well located for trips to Castellar and Almoraima, which I like very much; also Casares is near. And those up to Ronda: Benarrabá, Benalauría, and the loop Alpandeire, Juzcar, Cartajima...

Muchas gracias to all for offering your perspectives. It sounds as if it might be a good enough spot for a few days, after a rental in Seville, although the heavy expat influence is not waht I would have hoped for in a base. The idea arose because I found what appears to be a lovely rental property in the town with a heated swimming pool. (My friend and I are both serious swimmers and might need the exercise after the eating we plan to do in Seville!) Initially I had planned a couple of days in Ronda but it seems as if we can daytrip to that town from Gaucin if we do decide on this rental.

I'm not a Lapp, in fact I like WARM water, so will forget the idea of the Med swim! Thank you, Bedar! From what I've read, that portion of the coast sounds very built up and not so charming in any case.

Also: If anyone has ideas for a great 2-bedroom rental in Seville, please let me know.

We will also need a last stop not far from an airport, so that probably means Malaga. Any other ideas for a last stop? (I did spend time in Granada last winter so was looking for a different destination for this trip)

Málaga is a wonderful city and an excellent choice for a last stop. Genuine Andalucian atmosphere and reputadely the most easy-going people in the region. Abundance of great tapas bars, cafés, restaurants, theaters, sights etc. Totally different than the tourist-oriented and built up areas west along the coast.

"Málaga: Authetic charm of an overlooked treasure": http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/citybreaks/5493785/Malaga-Authentic-charm-of-an-overlooked-treasure.html
http://www.andalucia.com/cities/malaga/home.htm

Go just east of the city center to Pedregalejo for both beach-front restaurants that are very popular with locals and nice and small beaches. I've visited in November several times, and it has definitely been much beach-weather and lots of swimming (expect water temperatures around 65-70F in Oct/Nov).

It's true that the coast near that area is built up and seems like mostly English and Irish on holiday or living there. I know that's a gross generalization and there must be some nice Spanish towns left. If you're from the U.S. you might be let down by the beaches though. I really like Malaga though and is a great place to take the high speed train back to Madrid (or the airport). The last time I was there was in November and there were many Germans and Brits in the water on a hot day.

Right, Northern Europeans might swim in the Med in November but ... A fast look around Malaga is certainly worthwhile, but, if pressed, the drive from Gaucin to the airport is a short one. Just depends on when your flight leaves.

You've all been a big help. I will suggest ending the trip with a few days in Malaga city, hopefully we can find a nice hotel with a pool. (although I imagine pool would have to be heated to be any use in November (??)

Just have to decide about the Gaucin idea..wondering if the town will be dead quiet in early November. It appears that restaurants are open from Thursday to Monday in that season. I could try to time the visit for then.

Do you think that a daytrip will allow us to get the gist of Ronda, or should we plan a night there?

I'll eventually start another thread, but so far, the trip might be:

Madrid (4-5 days apartment rental; friend has never been here)

Train to Sevilla (must endure horrid RENFE travails in order to book discount tickets)

Sevilla (5-6 days apartment rental with daytrip by train to Cordoba, and perhaps another destination; spend most of the time wandering around, eating tapas, ogling food shops and markets; sightseeing)

Rent car. Stopover en route from Seville to be determined...maybe stay a night in Ronda??

Gaucin? (3-4 days? with car trips to various towns and to Ronda if we did not stay there already)

Drive to Malaga; drop off car; stay in hotel 2 days or so. (Concentrate on seafood; aimless wandering; maybe go to beach once)

Taxi/bus to airport for flight home

Feel free to give me any tips. I did spend about a week in Sevilla about 8 years ago (also 2 days in Arcos, and night in Sanlucar de B. on that trip) but all the rest after Madrid will be new to me.

Many, many thanks, again.

I learned a long time ago that if I ever want to know anything about any place in Spain, I start by doing a google search that includes the words "guardian uk"

I don't there is any town in Spain that the Guardian hasn't written a travel piece about:


http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2010/apr/17/spain-gaucin-andalucia-artists-views

Some suggestions for an evening/night and morning in the centre of Málaga city.

An early evening glass or two of typical Málaga wines at Antigua Casa de Guardia from 1840, Alamenda Principal, 18: http://www.antiguacasadeguardia.net/home.html

Delicious seafood tapas at typical La Campana in Calle Granada, 35: http://11870.com/pro/la-campana-malaga

As traditional as it gets at close by El Cortijo de Pepe in Plaza Merced, 2.: http://www.travbuddy.com/Cortijo-de-Pepe-v471506

Both innovative and traditional tapas at extremely popular Tapeo de Cervantes in Calle Carcer, 8, three minutes away: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187438-d1443106-Reviews-Tapeo_de_Cervantes-Malaga_Costa_del_Sol_Andalucia.html

Bodega Bar El Pimpi is an institution in town and a must later in the night. In C/Granada, 62: http://www.bodegabarelpimpi.com/launch_eng.html

For the next morning, I recommend Chocolate con churros or coffee at Casa Aranda, one of the best cafés I've found after 25 years of extensive travelling around Spain. In C/ Herrería del Rey, 1: http://www.casa-aranda.net/

Always updated about local flamenco events: http://www.flamenka.com/html/agenda/agenda2012/agenda%202012.html

Hotel Don Curro is good value in the middle of everything: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/hoteldoncurro.en.html

Eks

This area has lovely landscapes but due to the roads getting around can be time consuming. I was just about to book flights to Malaga but the prices have gone through the roof, so we are heading for Provence next.

Much of the Costa del Sol is swamped with nothern European culture and as you point out the coast is fairly awful. Look at Medina Sidonia as a base which is good for visiting the Costa De la Luz, stunning and quieter.

Thought you were heading for Sardinia next?

We're staying in Plaza Santa Cruz A, offered by www.sevilla5.com, in a couple of weeks. It has 2 bedrooms but only one bath. I'll let you know more after we return, but so far the agency has been terrific to deal with. PS -- didn't you follow me to the Dordogne at one point years ago?

Great info! Thank you. Z: I usually do look for Guardian article but neglected to do so this time and would have missed that one you posted, which does make Gaucin sound appealing for a couple of days, at least. Thanks again for all your help here.

Dickie: I abandoned the idea of Sardinia for various reasons...I know the beaches are great there. But: There are just TOO MANY interesting places to travel and so little time! The last few times to Italy I headed to the mainland south, and hope to do so again in September, if all goes as planned.

Kimhe, you have convinced me about Malaga. Remember this Guardian article from a few years ago? http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2009/jun/21/malaga-spain-city-breaks-travel?INTCMP=SRCH

Also:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/citybreaks/5493785/Malaga-Authentic-charm-of-an-overlooked-treasure.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/journalists/nigel-tisdall/8773310/Malaga-Spain-Secret-Spanish-pleasures.html

Thanks for the articles about Málaga, two of them I didn't know. A great and genuinly Spanish city, and I hope you'll have some fine days there. I always keep coming back for my Málaga "fix", one of my absolute favourites in the country.

... and of course the freshest fish and seafood in Málaga. I just came back a couple of days ago and just want to return right away to have more pure sea taste of Conchas finas, Navajas (razor-clams), Vieiras (scallops) etc. etc.

Conchas finas are to die for:
http://www.google.no/search?q=Conchas+finas&hl=en&prmd=imvnse&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=1W1zT_atGezN4QTs7NCJDw&ved=0CDYQsAQ&biw=984&bih=443#q=Conchas+finas&hl=en&sa=X&tbm=isch&prmd=imvnse&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=1&biw=1600&bih=719

Friends stayed in this Gaucin Hotel: http://www.lafructuosa.com/princ_en.html
and they were satisfied. They recommend you get the owner to cook for you.

http://www.laherriza.com/

Gaucin is a rather sleepy, quiet town as mentionned above, but perfect for some R&R and hiking with views to Gibraltar, weather permitting (don't miss the hike to the castle rising above the town). As I recall it is a predominantly spanish town as well. We really enjoyed our stay at La Herriza, located just outside town on a small side road (4 km?) and I could recommend it - fantastic breakfast. We also had a rather nice dinner at their restaurant.

We spent an afternoon in Casares, a worthwhile stop closer to the coast, with a fabulous site (location), very atmospheric and rather quiet as well. This would have been in the spring, but I am presuming it would be similar in late fall.

Have you been to Gaucin.com? There is a lot of local information. On the right hand side of the page is the Alta Rosa (Or Rosa Alta!) Apartment. We stayed there. It was lovely and the views are amazing.

Yes it is a very sleepy town. There are many Brits there. I got the impression that there were elderly Spanish residents whose children moved away. We would take long walks and would see elderly people walking with their walking sticks. It seemed like a very healthy way to live!

The roads to Ronda etc. are really scary. But the views are gorgeous.

If you go straight down to the sea, the resort there is very British. We found a pub and had scrambled eggs and toast. We got a great kick out of that!

C: I'm so glad you responded, because that is the apartment we are looking at in Gaucin! Initially I thought we could do a daytrip to Ronda from there but I do see that the road is "challenging!"

Are all of the roads leading from the village in that kind of category?

Were there any negatives about the apartment or the town?

Where did you do your food shopping or did you eat out always?

We were initially attracted because of the swimming pool (I like to swim an hour or more a day if possible); I had never heard of Gaucin but in the limited reading I've done, and from the comments here, it sounds as if it might be a good stop for us for a few days, as long as we can get out and about with the car during the days, and as long as there are places to eat at night. We are two friends and while we do not need nightlife, we don't want to feel totally isolated, either.

I really appreciate your thoughts on this! Thanks so much.

The Rosa Alta apt. looks nice, if a bit pricey. Then again, you'd have a heated pool. All the roads in the area are twisty. You are in the mountains, after all. We use the Michelin Spain and Portugal Tourist and Mororing Atlas, but I have a map from Europcar that is left over from our last trip. It lists dangerous roads, and there are none in that area. Ronda is 40 km (24 mi) away, and the coast is 29 km (17 mi) away. I would make day trips from the apt. and not spend yet more money on lodgings unless, of course, you've had a bit too much to drink !!

The roads are not that scary, and not very frequented.

Hi Eks! On our first trip to Spain (pre-Fodor's) we 'winged it' for three weeks around Andalucía. We were supposed to pass through Ronda as a day trip and found it to be so beautiful and dramatic that we wound up staying for two nights. Sadly the Parador was fully booked but it is gorgeous. I don't remember the road being too bad but DH was the one driving.

E. You will love Rosa Alta. We stayed in the apartment upstairs from the owner. It was charming. We visited the newer apartments next door. You can't go wrong.

There are lots of grocery stores, mostly small, but at least one that is what I would call a mini supermarket. Since we were there 3 weeks, we got to realize which days there were no restaurants (I think Sun & Mon. Not too sure). There is a place that sells bbq chicken, take-out and there was a gourmet shop that had prepared food.

It's a lovely white hilltown. Twice a day we walked up and down the hills, exploring.

As for the roads, I guess it is personal. For us it was daunting, for others it may be a piece of cake! If you don't find the driving too challenging, the owners can recommend excellent restaurants that are in nearby areas. Mostly our car stayed in front of the apartment! We preferred to use our legs!!

It will be a great experience!

So, Ekscrunchy (love the name!) what did you decide?