Four Nights in Dijon - Under Coco's Spell

This is a long overdue report on our visit to Dijon in May 2009. My hat is off to all you travelers who shared in detail your adventures – it takes work. And I wasn’t able to give all the details I enjoy reading about in other people’s trip reports, as I didn’t take good enough notes, nor do I have a good enough memory. But, here goes.


Day 1

Weary, jet-lagged, and red-eyed we got off the TGV in Dijon Ville and headed toward the exit Rue Albert 1er. Before we got to the exit, a bright-eyed lady asked if we were Stephen and Mary Margaret. Coco had found us!

Within moments, we were traversing the streets of Dijon, Coco navigating her Blue Opal Vectre while giving history and sightseeing lessons of her beloved city. Her manner was infectious, and soon the adrenaline started pumping and MM and I had our second wind.

Coco led us through the back entrance into a courtyard. In the center of the courtyard stood a skylight, a small scale version of the Louvre’s famous pyramid. This was her pyramid! We could look in and see children sitting around tables. It was an art class, Coco informed us, and mentioned that sometimes there had been nude models! An auspicious start to our introduction to Dijon.

Upstairs to the first floor (the second floor US). For those who haven’t read of Coco’s apartment in Dijon, go to http//www.myhomeindijon.com. A great website, but it doesn’t begin to tell how well thought through and lovingly furnished and finished the apartment is.

Coco explained the features, the locks, the appliances, the cable, the telephone system, wi-fi, etal. She had set the table was set, and there were welcome gifts of mustard, nonnettes au meil (honey cookies/cakes for which Dijon is noted), and homemade brownies, along with a bowlt of fresh fruit. She had also stocked the refrigerator with beverages and cheeses based on an earlier checklist we had completed for her.

But now, off to see the neighborhood together. Coco wanted us to see where we were scheduled for cooking class the next day (to be discussed later). IThen into a bakery for some fresh baguette de campagne to accompany the cheese. Coco insisted insisted on paying. We walked further – the market, the Ducal palace, the Theatre, Eglise Notre-Dame and more (all within a few blocks of the apartment).

After Coco left, and we bought some wine to go with the bread and cheese. It was around 7 PM. We had started out 30 hours before, flying from Miami to CDG; then the RER into Paris and to the Gare Lyon. Finally the TGV to Dijon.

We turned the air conditioner on, opened up some cheese and wine, broke some bread, and ate like royalty. The cramped coach class, the efficient (but hot) TGV -it was all worth it!


Day 2

We woke up 13 hours later, around 10 in the morning.

The most pressing issue was to buy some croissants and pain de chocolate.

The second issue was to make sure that we got to our cooking class, scheduled at 1PM.

We walked the three or four blocks to the bakery, passing the cooking school on the way, just as Coco had shown us the day before! Off to a good start.

In the pre-arrival items that Coco handled, one of her offers was to buy some items for the refrigerator. I have not told you what a wonderful selection and variety of cheese she chose: Brie, Camembert, Chevre, Munster, Bresse Bleu, Comte, and a Plaisir au Chablis. When Coco first showed us the kitchen, she apologized for the smell – one of the cheeses was strong enough to smell even though it was completely wrapped and safely in the refrigerator. It was a heavenly smell. We later found out that was the Camembert.

The other pre-arrival item is that Coco mentioned that a couple had opened a gourmet shop with a cooking school, and, were we interested in going to a cooking class? She mentioned some of the classes that were being held while we were in town, and we decided that “Breast of Duck with Honey and Spices, with a mélange of fresh vegetables” sounded like a great way to spend a couple of hours. Coco made all the arrangements.

We arrived at L”atelier des Chefs a few minutes before the class so that we could wash up and don some “chic” plastic aprons. The class was a hoot! My wife and I, and a French family of 4, a chef and an assistant. Of course MM and I were the only ones who didn’t speak French… but it worked out well anyway. After the class, we all sat down and ate medium rare breast of duck with vegetable mélange, washed down with some good Pinot Noir. Coco dropped by with her camera, and (at least when I started to write this trip report) if you go to the “Cooking Classes” section of her website, we are the featured couple in our chic aprons.

In addition to being instructive and fun, the price was very reasonable. My guess is that the cooking class is a break even, with the real hope that we would all buy some of the utensils and other cooking “goodies” they sold. We did not fail the proprietors, and bought our share of items that we can both use and treasure. What is funny is that although we consider ourselver “foodies”, these were items we didn’t know existed…. but now we could not live without them.

For diner we supplemented bread, wine & cheese with some Aubergine Lasagne that we bought as take-out from Au Roi des Pates, an Italian deli near the market. Another wonderful meal.



Day 3

Friday, and a red-letter day, as we have a reservation for lunch at Stephane Derbord, a one-Michelin star restaurant. Especially after reading what Stu Dudley had written about the restaurant, for sure we were going. As we left for the restaurant we noted that the lights in the art class in the courtyard were out and the place deserted. No children, no teachers. Obviously there were no classes on Friday.

A five minute walk later, we entered the restaurant. Elegant, understated, very well decorated. A corner table, two Kir Royales and we looked at the menu.

We decided to each have their amazing value 25€ fixed price lunch. They refer to that as their “Surprise Menu”. We were given descriptions of what would be served, but the descriptions did not do justice to the magic qualities of the dishes.

An amuse bouche was served with the Kir Royales. Then another amuse bouche was served.

In due time the waiter brought what looked like a Napoleon to the table. Pieces of puff-pastry with dollops of something beige between the layers. Fish said the waiter – Magic we thought as we ate.

Then followed sautéed pieces of fish wrapped in spirals bordered by perhaps a 1”x4” piece of baked polenta with lardoons. What wonderful food. So light and so filling at the same time.

By dessert we lost track of what was a dessert bouche versus what was dessert. It didn’t matter, there was nothing bad, nothing even average… it was all superb!

Each course outstanding, each course not enough to fill, but together a remarkable meal to remember. With the 2 Kir Royals, badoit and a bottle of Chardonnay, premier Cru. Total: 130€ very well spent.

Had not mentioned that Dijon is a great tourist town. The Office de Tourisme has arranged the sites into a coherent and fun walking tour, a 22 stage trail called “The Owl’s Trail” – a real fun happening that can be done in stages or all at once in under an hour. In addition, there is a tourist bus, like a jitney but with glass covered roof that circulates along the main tourist route every ten minutes or so during most of the day. It is free – so you can get on or off whenever a site strikes your fancy – and continue later.

And they are not like some of the tourist “trains”, the open air Disney-like things that scream “TOURIST”. These mini busses were a part of the city bus system, and being free, all the people of Dijon get on… students, businessmen, housewives, shoppers, and tourists… a real bus. A chance to see parts of the city and people of the city going about their daily routine.

After our lunch at Stephane Derbord we walked around the old quarter to walk the food off, then boarded the bus, and eventually wound up having some hydration and people watching at the Place de la Liberation (literally right next to our apartment).

The old part of Dijon is fairly compact, so you don’t really need the bus. But we found the bus to be fun when we wanted to get a blast of air-conditioning or wished to be a little lazy.

By 4 PM it started to feel warm, so we decided to head back to our apartment and turn on the air. Maybe take a nap. When we got into the courtyard, we noticed through the skylite that there were adults, not children, sitting at the tables. I then noticed a nude figure, a lady, sprawled on a table. MM implored me not to gawk, and like a fool, (no change that to “obedient husband”), I listened to her. We went to our apartment and looked out the window to see what I could see. Of course, from the second floor the glare on the skylight was such that I couldn’t see anything – but at least I was not gawking in public.

Around 7PM we started feeling hungry for diner. But what to do after such a lunch? We decided that we wanted something light. Now, if you didn’t know about pizza in France, you might laugh, but “pizza” was our answer to something light. Within a block of the apartment was a pizzeria that we had been passing for three days that advertised that it had won the award as #1 best pizza in France in 2005 and made it to the top 5 in 2007. Add that buildup along with the phrase “feu aux bois” and I was salivating like Pavlov’s dogs hearing a ringing bell. The establishment is named Gustovos, after the owner.

We ordered a vegetarian pizza to go, brought it home and ate it with gusto. One (small by American standards) pizza divided by two consenting adults DOES really make a light meal. The pizza was fantastic. The crust was light and flavorful, tying with the best I have had anywhere.

Of course since we shared the pizza, we still had room to work on Coco’s cheese selections.

Day 4

Saturday, Market Day. As we thought about if we wanted to get anything at the market, we could not think of anything we needed. I have failed to tell you that the apartment had everything imaginable for our enjoyment and comfort. Cooking utensils, spices, enough food basics so that if you wanted to do cooking, you need only buy the perishable ingredients you needed. There was even a flashlight in the closed where the circuit breakers were located so that if you needed to check them, you had a light. There were books and magazines, cleaning supplies, an umbrella in the umbrella stand, scrapbooks of recommendations for restaurants, hair dryer, free samples of toiletries and other supplies in the bathroom. In short, all that anybody could want.

So we needed nothing. But naturally we wanted to go to the market to see what we would find.

We got up unusually early for us (before 10), and went to the Place F Rude (quite near to the market) – for people watching, café au lait,croissants and pain de chocolate – rather than having breakfast in he apartment.

We walked around the covered market and the numerous stalls outside until we were hungry again, and decided on Café Cosi, near the market, for lunch. I had a Grilled salmon with pasta, MM had Gambas. The salmon was fresh and cooked perfectly. MM’s Gambas, were huge, sautéed in butter/olive oil with garlic… and again cooked perfectly.. not at all hard or tough. Both simple dishes that required fresh ingredients and a deft hand. Two Pichets of St Veran, one because it was so hot when we first sat down, and the second because the first one was so good.

Eventually we got hungry again. For our final night in Dijon, we went to Chez Leon, a restaurant close to the market. I had seen at lunchtime that a special de jour was ris de veau – sweetbreads- a favorite of mine. That sounded too heavy for lunch, but for diner it hit the spot. MM had a steak au poirve. Another great meal.

Day 5

Up at dawn (for us that was about 8AM), as we had a train to catch to go to Strasbourg. Coco brought us to the train station. It was a sad goodbye.

Coco gave us a surprise hostess gift. I won’t ruin the surprise – you’ll have to get your own, from Coco.

We loved Dijon!, and Coco is the consummate host – a great start to our vacation in France. We are looking forward to working Dijon into our travel plans again as soon as we can. For our second visit, we might go into more of the museums and “must do’s” that we didn’t do on this trip.