FOCUS ON FRANCE: Paris and South of France
Oct 31st, 2016, 01:33 PM
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FOCUS ON FRANCE: Paris and South of France
August 25-September 13, 2016
BACKGROUND:
This past spring, in planning for a late summer European trip, we had France on our minds: Paris, a re-visit of some favorite locations south, and an exploration of new areas. This would be a contrast with our trip last year to Central (Eastern) Europe which included, along with the beauty and cultures of the places visited, focus on the impact of the Nazis and Soviets on these countries.
Aware of our late start, and being inundated with activities at home leaving us little time for the detailed planning which would be involved, we worked out what we felt would be a satisfying combo. We would do the planning for Paris, and rely on a tour which traveled the “Country Roads of France”, as it was called, to explore other regions.
With three weeks to travel, following a few days in Paris, we would join the tour for what we called our “France Sampler”: a short re-visit of the Alps and the Cote d’Azur, and exploration of new regions: Burgundy, Provence, Languedoc, and Dordogne. We felt confident that we could utilize the positives of the tour: transportation, hotel bookings, knowledgeable guide, etc. etc. and depart from the group according to our own interests.
Again, we experienced that international travel always involves the same endless “things to do”. But finally, “Off to Paris and the South of France!” Great expectations!
Here are memories of experiences from what turned out to be a wonderful French adventure: natural beauty, excellent wine discoveries, appreciation of food, ancient and medieval architecture, history, French culture, and so much more.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 25; FRIDAY, AUGUST 26, 2016
TRAVEL DAY; BON JOUR, PARIS!
We arrived at CVG (Cincinnati) airport just before 4 PM; skycap did take care of our bags So we were comfortably early, and could linger a bit as we snacked at McDonalds and made a couple of calls before heading to Gate B5 for our 6:32 PM flight . We are pre-certified for security…nice to leave shoes on, no pulling out of computer, etc.
The 7 ½ hour flight was smooth. As with most international flights, it just seemed long and difficult to get some shuteye in an upright position. The flight routine is the same: be served a drink, then a light meal, then the lights are dimmed, and most sleep as best they can.
At one restroom break, we had a friendly discussion with an older Iranian man who was heading for Tehran. He had visited his son who owns a restaurant nearby us in N. Kentucky named “House of Green” with emphasis on fresh vegetables. We told him that we’d try it.
We touched down at CDG about 8:30 AM. It took a while to taxi to the gate, CDG having the distinction of being the largest international airport. We arrived in Terminal 2…and made the seemingly endless walk to arrive in Immigration. Many arrivals, with only three windows open, caused about 1 ½ hour line for those of us coming from a non-EU location. Again, a lively discussion with a couple from Washington D.C. who had worked for the Chicago Tribune, helped pass the time. Tom’s remark about the wife’s dead-on resemblance to Jodie Foster is what initiated our discussion. She acknowledged that many people tell her that.
Fortunately, our luggage had arrived with us, in contrast to last year when delayed baggage cost us almost a day of time! We purchased a 2-day museum pass (48 EUR each). Having several museums on our list, we thought it would be a worthwhile purchase to avoid the lines.
Cab fare to the St. Germain-des-Pres area was 55 EUR with a tip added. We’re glad that cabs accept credit cards…very honest and up front dealings from the driver…took about 40 minutes with limited traffic to arrive at the Le Regent Hotel.
We were excited to begin the first prong of our France venture: several days in Paris. At our hotel check-in, we reacquainted ourselves with Angelique, our favorite desk clerk, who remembered us from two years ago. Our room 61 is small with a shower in the tub…adequate and nicely located with a unique terrace overlooking parts of the surrounding area. Continental breakfast was included with our room rate.
We felt hungry, and with all the nearby restaurants, we easily found a good ham/egg/cheese crepe at a brasserie (16.20 EUR). The surrounding streets were bustling with activity on this beautiful, if very hot, day.
In spite of the things on our list for the day, jet lag, which we never want to acknowledge, caught up with us, maybe made worse because we were not able to get good rest before leaving home. We decided to do what the spirit moved. Just being in Paris and strolling the streets was an enjoyable introduction to our four-day stay.
Following lunch, we enjoyed a walk up Rue Dauphine to the Seine. Pont Neuf is a wonderful view in both directions, with Pont Alexandre and Notre Dame both visible from the bridge. It’s always of interest to note that the oldest bridge in Paris is named “Neuf”. There was a lot of activity in the bouquinistes lining the streets. We’re always interested in the street artists, but today they seemed to be absent.
In view of the sunny day, and our draggy feeling, we decided to forego museum plans and visit some of the traditional Paris sights, with no particular agenda in mind. We made our way to Trocadero and had ice cream for Margie and a beer for Tom at the Le Wilson Brasserie overlooking the area. The waiter commented to a family who entered that the temperature was the same inside the restaurant, as on the covered patio: “Tres Chaud”. No A/C.
Following that stop, we enjoyed the open terrace of the Palais de Chaillot for one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower. Since there was reconstruction of the fountains in front of the Palais, the area on the terrace was reduced and fencing was surrounding it. But it still allowed for comfortable viewing.
We descended the couple flights of stairs and walked down an inviting pathway through the Jardin de Chaillot with its long green lawn and a multitude of brilliant flowers. A shady park bench looked very inviting. Did we mention that it was hot? 90’s F. But we were just happy to have a clear day with blue skies.
After enjoying a restful pause, we walked the remainder of the garden and crossed the Seine via the Pont d’Elena. On the other side, we were happy to buy a drink to quench our thirst. It’s amazing how much time can be consumed just walking about enjoying the Champs de Mars and the atmosphere of Paris.
Back to the Le Regent to unpack a bit and freshen up for a 7:30 dinner reservation. Before leaving home, Margie had booked the Andre’ Allard Restaurant. This restaurant had been given good reviews as a moderately-priced, typically French restaurant, and we liked that it was near our hotel.
Upon arrival at Andre’ Allard, we were greeted at the door by four or five waiters, dressed in their typical black and white suits, and given a corner booth just aside the wine bar. The meal began with a nice red wine, followed by a tasty cucumber salad, fresh baked bread, and their delicious French butter. Never have we tasted such wonderful butter!
The service was great and the wine, salad, pommes frites and bread were a “10”. However, the main part of the meal took a dive. The filet de boeuf aux poivres presented looked beautiful, generous sizes. However, both were so tough that, even with their steak knives, we could barely cut any pieces! The old cliché, “cuts like shoe leather”, could be perfectly applied. We ate very little of the boeuf, tiny pieces at that. However, the pommes frites which accompanied it were perfect!
For a tasty finale, we ordered a sorbet and cappuccinos, and left Allard’s 133.20 EUR poorer, leaving a 5 EUR tip. Margie’s eyes were heavy as we finished the sorbet and cappuccinos. A recommendation to others who might choose Allard’s would be: “Don’t order boeuf.”
A short walk to our hotel; happy to be in Paris! Off to bed by about 11 PM.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 27, 2016
PARIS. . .OURS TO EXPLORE!
Great to sleep about 9 ½ hours! About 9 AM, we descended the circular staircase to the lower level, which looked like a former wine cellar, for our complimentary breakfast. The tables were attractively set, as one might expect in France. We were served a typical French continental breakfast consisting of croissants and fresh bread, regular yogurt that needed some jam to flavor it, and café au lait.
Following breakfast, we walked down Rue Saint Andre’ Des Arts to St Michel Square, the hub of the Latin Quarter. This route is lined with shops and restaurants.
We had several museums on our list, and thought that we might visit the Musee’ d’Orsay. As we had hoped, it did not appear too crowded. The museum pass worked well to avoid the line which had formed.
We’ve visited the Musee’ d’Orsay a few times in the past, and still experienced it as a great as ever. Our main interest was impressionism…and this museum has an abundance of it: Van Gogh, Monet, Cezanne, Degas, etc. We spent most of our time in the 2nd and 5th floor exhibit rooms. So many great works. . .and not crowded. Farther on in our trip, we would be visiting towns which provided inspiration for some of these artists.
It was interesting and relieving, to see the signs posted, “No selfie sticks!”
Our 2-hour rule was easily exceeded, and we were tired as we headed toward the Champs Elysees. Although the stores lining it aren’t the appeal, it is always impressive to see the Arc de Triomphe, the architecture of the buildings, and the view down the tree-lined avenue to the Place de la Concorde. And interesting people-watching!
Café Deauville, which we had enjoyed in the past, was our choice for lunch. Finding an outdoor table, we each ordered a 16 oz. 1664 draft beer and a crepe with ham and cheese. Normally, we wouldn’t think of beer as an accompaniment to a crepe, but the hot day made a cold beer taste quite refreshing.
We easily found a nearby taxi stand and within a few minutes were facing the entrance of the beautiful Palais Garnier Opera House. (9 EUR) for the Mercedes ride to the front door. Again, no problem using credit cards in taxis. We knew that our museum pass was not valid at the Opera House. ($11 EUR each to enter).
What a gorgeous place with gold leaf everywhere, magnificent marble staircases, sculptures and paintings by famous artists of the day, and the auditorium ceiling painted by Chagall! Though we had visited the Opera Garnier several years ago, we had forgotten just how beautiful it is. On each visit to Paris, we like to focus on one outstandingly ornate building interior, and for us this trip, the Opera House was it. The audio guides were excellent ($2 EUR each).
As we crossed the plaza to the Café de la Paix nearby to enjoy smoothies, we snapped photos of the outside of the Opera Garnier, stunning in its own right. It seems that every time we re-visit a place, we observe new details, and so it was today in the Opera House. No Phantom in sight!
Returning to our hotel to freshen up for dinner, we asked Angelique for a restaurant recommendation in the area. We easily found her suggestion, Cepe e’ fique, located on Cours de Commerce, a cobbled “passage” off Rue St. Andre’des Arts. It was a small, simple French place, but the food was wonderful.
We enjoyed their onion soup and boeuf bourguinon (which was on special for 19 EUR). They recommended a vin rouge from Languedoc, an area which we would visit later in our trip. It was a perfect pairing with our meal. The beef in the bourguinon was so tender, a treat after last evening’s experience.
We lingered till about 11:30, having a great discussion with a couple from Melbourne, Australia. We spoke about what is trending in both countries, plus travel experiences.
It was a good day visiting both the Musee d’Orsay and the Opera Garnier, and just ambling around and enjoying the ambience of Paris. The delightful evening meal capped off the day.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 2016
ANOTHER FULL DAY IN PARIS!
Up at 7, even though we retired after midnight last night. Our goal was 10:00 Mass at Notre Dame.
We walked the 10-15 minutes to Notre Dame and easily found seating. There was a smooth exchange of people leaving the previous liturgy and entering for the 10 AM Mass which began very punctually.
Most of the main parts of the Mass were surprisingly and beautifully sung in Latin. But it was evident from the responses to the parts that were in French that there was a predominance of French-speaking worshipers, as one might expect. Even though visitors were permitted to walk around the perimeter while the middle sections were blocked off for worship, the liturgy was inspirational and completed in about an hour.
At the end, we shot a few photos of the stained glass windows and views of the long line forming outside on the plaza. On every visit to Paris, it’s our tradition to visit Notre Dame.
This was another beautiful, sunny day, with a perfect temperature. Luxembourg Gardens was calling us. We headed up the hill in that direction, but before venturing into the gardens, we first enjoyed brunch at an outside table of the Le Rostand Restaurant.
Tom’s croque madame and Margie’s quiche loraine were both excellent. We enjoyed our meal with a vin blanc for Margie and a beer for Tom as we watched the people arriving by bus or bikes, passing by to cross the street to the garden entrance.
The Luxembourg Gardens had never been so impressive! A perfect day to appreciate the outstanding palace, fronted by the large pond, flower gardens, pots of geraniums, green grass, with chairs and benches scattered around inviting people to relax; small sailboats in the water, lots of bodies lying out in the sun at the far end away from the walkers; even a small restaurant on the premises. Good job, Marie de Medici, for providing such a wonderful summer spot for enjoyment!
A shady spot with two inviting chairs was the perfect place for relaxation. Although we’ve seen Luxembourg Gardens in the past, we’ve never had the pleasure of enjoying it on such an ideal day. The flowers were at their peak, and all the grass was lush. Our visit lasted much longer than we had anticipated, but why not take full advantage of this beautiful garden on such a perfect day?
The palace, which now serves as the Senate, is huge and not normally able to be toured except in Patrimoine Week. Maybe in the future we’ll visit during the 3rd week of September for these “Heritage Days” and have the opportunity to tour the interiors of the Senate and other notable buildings.
After a couple of hours in the Luxembourg Garden, we tore ourselves away to walk the short distance to the Pantheon. In our past visits to Paris, we have never visited the Pantheon, and thought we’d like to step into a bit of history. Our museum pass was valid for the 2nd time…hardly worth the $98 we paid (used about ½ of that). Tourism was down in Paris, and thus the lines are not so long that the pass is necessary.
The Pantheon exterior is impressive, resembling the Pantheon of Rome. Louis XV commissioned the architect Jacques-Germain Souflot to erect this edifice in thanksgiving to God for his recovery from an illness. Due in part to financial difficulties, construction which began in 1757, lasted until 1791. The architect died before his goal of combining lightness and brightness using classical principles could be achieved. However, the Pantheon is still considered to be one of the most important architectural achievements of its time.
Over the years, the usage of the Pantheon has changed. Originally a church honoring St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, after the French Revolution the new government declared it a mausoleum dedicated to venerable patriots, scientists, philosophers, artists etc. On and off it has been returned to a church, but now it is again mostly a mausoleum underneath and the first floor a large open space with impressive statuary and columns.
We visited the undercroft, quite a large system with main passages and small offshoots where the notable citizens of France are interred. We visited several crypts, among them Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie, and Louis Braille, and viewed some videos showing how the Parisians honor the passing of their famous citizens.
Returning upstairs, we spent a couple of minutes observing the Foucault pendulum, a device conceived in 1851 by the French physicist Leon Foucault as a simple demonstration of the rotation of the earth. There were quite a few people gathered around the viewing area.
Following our Pantheon visit, which again went longer than we had anticipated, we enjoyed some sorbet and café au lait at Le Comptoir nearby. In Paris, one is never far from a café!
Each trip we, especially Margie, like to visit one high spot to enjoy a panoramic view of Paris. We’ve enjoyed Montmartre at sunset a few times, the Eiffel Tower, climbed the Arc de Triomphe, etc. but never made it to top of the Tour Montparnasse. On a previous trip, it began to rain just as we were ready to ascend.
Given the ideally clear day, we headed in that direction, and paid our 15 EUR each for a trip to the 56th floor. This was a perfect day to take advantage of the 360’ views of Paris. We learned that the elevator goes only to floor 52, with the remaining floors reached by a stairway. That is, unless one has reservations at the Le Ciel de Paris Restaurant. An elevator goes right to that area on the 56th floor. That might be on our “to do” list for our next visit.
Until more recently, after the Eiffel Tower, Tour Montparnasse was the second highest building in Paris. Several years ago the Tour Fust at La Defense has taken over that distinction. But whatever the height ranking, the view was outstanding. We took many photos on the first observation level, and then walked the other 75 steps up to the top terrace to view the city. Fantastic views in all directions.
From the Tour Montparnasse, we caught a bus to Boul. St. Germain where we intended to have dinner. Another great area of Paris, it’s close to our Le Regent Hotel. So many appealing outdoor/indoor restaurants/cafes…so many people frequenting them.
A happy find was the Brasserie Vagenende. We chose to sit in the more casual outdoors and shared the melt-in-your-mouth filet de boeuf chateaubriand béarnaise au poivre with their outstanding pommes frites. Wine and beer, of course, with the meal topped off with sorbet and café’au lait. The service was excellent.
The inside of Vagenende was beautiful. Margie pointed out the well-dressed people eating there and we both agreed that the Vagenende was a definite repeat ($67). On a return visit, this will be at the top of our restaurant list!
We returned to our hotel via a walk down Rue Gregoire de Tours and took note of an Italian restaurant that Angelique had earlier recommended. It was closed, but looked appealing for our next trip! In Paris, we always plan for that next visit!
The atmosphere was lively around Rue Buce. A small Dixieland Jazz band was playing in the area of many outdoor cafes. We lingered for a while, enjoying their entertainment and marveling at the large number of people out this Sunday night.
We headed back to Le Regent, and did some packing in order to be more ready for our morning check-out. Good night just after 11 PM. Another wonderful day in Paris!
MONDAY. AUGUST 29, 2016
ILE ST. LOUIS; PM: MONTPARNASSE
Up at 7:30 or so…continental breakfast…check-out wasn’t until noon…stored our luggage at Le Regent. Today was the day we would join a tour group at the Pullman Hotel in Montparnasse. We were ready for “Prong Two” of our journey, our “South of France Sampler”.
After checking out of Le Regent, we decided to make this a more leisurely day. We headed down Rue Saint Andre’ des Arts toward the Latin Quarter, stopping in some of the many shops. After the days of sun and blue skies, today was a bit overcast, and even a bit drizzly, but it didn’t last long.
We stopped by the famous English bookstore, Shakespeare and Company, and purchased a paperback copy of Animal Farm, a timely subject. Afterward, we walked along a section of the Seine which we do not ordinarily visit.
Ile St. Louis is usually on our list, and after doing some leisurely window shopping, we chose La Chaumiere En Isles for our lunch. It’s situated just over the bridge with a nice view of Notre Dame. A wonderful salad for Margie and omelette for Tom….with drinks and café au lait , and great service. (53,50 EUR).
Following that delightful lunch, we walked several more streets on Ile St. Louis, and wended our way back to Le Regent. The Notre Dame gardens, with flowers still in bloom, provided a pleasant stop.
Angelique, our fave, was on duty at the hotel, and called a cab that arrived within three minutes. A few miles and 15 EUR later we arrived at the Pullman Montparnasse Hotel where we were quickly checked in and our luggage was soon delivered to room 1101. It was here that we were to meet in the lobby to begin our travel to Burgundy, the Alps du Rhone, Cote d’Azur, Provence, Languedoc, and the Dordogne. We used the opportunity to shower and dress for the evening.
The Tour Group gathered in the lobby at 6 PM. We met Laurent, our native French director, whom we learned has been with the company for 17 years. We immediately liked him! And, as we would experience, he proved to be the perfect guide!
A “Welcome Dinner” was held in the Latin Quarter at Chez Clement Restaurant. The evening turned out to be a good experience. Champagne was served. It’s always a bit unnerving to meet totally new people and wonder just how things will go. However, we were seated with three Aussie couples. We sat across from Rob and Yvonne from Australia, not realizing that they would be our favorite couple and that we’d have quite a few experiences together.
The first item on the menu was a tasty French onion soup. We were treated to some escargot. Though not being inclined toward it, we thought it worth a try. The entrée (or “main” as the French say) was a deliciously prepared chicken, with accompaniments of potatoes and veggie. We were given our choice of beer, wine, etc. And a tasty dessert. Overall, we enjoyed the camaraderie and the first meal was very pleasant.
Back to the hotel just before 9 PM. Laurent pointed out that the Eiffel Tower, which we could see if we walked up a block or so to a large roundabout, would be lit up and “sparkling” at 9 PM. So we enjoyed the walk and the light show. It would be our farewell to Paris until our return in two weeks.
Tomorrow it’s off to Burgundy!
BACKGROUND:
This past spring, in planning for a late summer European trip, we had France on our minds: Paris, a re-visit of some favorite locations south, and an exploration of new areas. This would be a contrast with our trip last year to Central (Eastern) Europe which included, along with the beauty and cultures of the places visited, focus on the impact of the Nazis and Soviets on these countries.
Aware of our late start, and being inundated with activities at home leaving us little time for the detailed planning which would be involved, we worked out what we felt would be a satisfying combo. We would do the planning for Paris, and rely on a tour which traveled the “Country Roads of France”, as it was called, to explore other regions.
With three weeks to travel, following a few days in Paris, we would join the tour for what we called our “France Sampler”: a short re-visit of the Alps and the Cote d’Azur, and exploration of new regions: Burgundy, Provence, Languedoc, and Dordogne. We felt confident that we could utilize the positives of the tour: transportation, hotel bookings, knowledgeable guide, etc. etc. and depart from the group according to our own interests.
Again, we experienced that international travel always involves the same endless “things to do”. But finally, “Off to Paris and the South of France!” Great expectations!
Here are memories of experiences from what turned out to be a wonderful French adventure: natural beauty, excellent wine discoveries, appreciation of food, ancient and medieval architecture, history, French culture, and so much more.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 25; FRIDAY, AUGUST 26, 2016
TRAVEL DAY; BON JOUR, PARIS!
We arrived at CVG (Cincinnati) airport just before 4 PM; skycap did take care of our bags So we were comfortably early, and could linger a bit as we snacked at McDonalds and made a couple of calls before heading to Gate B5 for our 6:32 PM flight . We are pre-certified for security…nice to leave shoes on, no pulling out of computer, etc.
The 7 ½ hour flight was smooth. As with most international flights, it just seemed long and difficult to get some shuteye in an upright position. The flight routine is the same: be served a drink, then a light meal, then the lights are dimmed, and most sleep as best they can.
At one restroom break, we had a friendly discussion with an older Iranian man who was heading for Tehran. He had visited his son who owns a restaurant nearby us in N. Kentucky named “House of Green” with emphasis on fresh vegetables. We told him that we’d try it.
We touched down at CDG about 8:30 AM. It took a while to taxi to the gate, CDG having the distinction of being the largest international airport. We arrived in Terminal 2…and made the seemingly endless walk to arrive in Immigration. Many arrivals, with only three windows open, caused about 1 ½ hour line for those of us coming from a non-EU location. Again, a lively discussion with a couple from Washington D.C. who had worked for the Chicago Tribune, helped pass the time. Tom’s remark about the wife’s dead-on resemblance to Jodie Foster is what initiated our discussion. She acknowledged that many people tell her that.
Fortunately, our luggage had arrived with us, in contrast to last year when delayed baggage cost us almost a day of time! We purchased a 2-day museum pass (48 EUR each). Having several museums on our list, we thought it would be a worthwhile purchase to avoid the lines.
Cab fare to the St. Germain-des-Pres area was 55 EUR with a tip added. We’re glad that cabs accept credit cards…very honest and up front dealings from the driver…took about 40 minutes with limited traffic to arrive at the Le Regent Hotel.
We were excited to begin the first prong of our France venture: several days in Paris. At our hotel check-in, we reacquainted ourselves with Angelique, our favorite desk clerk, who remembered us from two years ago. Our room 61 is small with a shower in the tub…adequate and nicely located with a unique terrace overlooking parts of the surrounding area. Continental breakfast was included with our room rate.
We felt hungry, and with all the nearby restaurants, we easily found a good ham/egg/cheese crepe at a brasserie (16.20 EUR). The surrounding streets were bustling with activity on this beautiful, if very hot, day.
In spite of the things on our list for the day, jet lag, which we never want to acknowledge, caught up with us, maybe made worse because we were not able to get good rest before leaving home. We decided to do what the spirit moved. Just being in Paris and strolling the streets was an enjoyable introduction to our four-day stay.
Following lunch, we enjoyed a walk up Rue Dauphine to the Seine. Pont Neuf is a wonderful view in both directions, with Pont Alexandre and Notre Dame both visible from the bridge. It’s always of interest to note that the oldest bridge in Paris is named “Neuf”. There was a lot of activity in the bouquinistes lining the streets. We’re always interested in the street artists, but today they seemed to be absent.
In view of the sunny day, and our draggy feeling, we decided to forego museum plans and visit some of the traditional Paris sights, with no particular agenda in mind. We made our way to Trocadero and had ice cream for Margie and a beer for Tom at the Le Wilson Brasserie overlooking the area. The waiter commented to a family who entered that the temperature was the same inside the restaurant, as on the covered patio: “Tres Chaud”. No A/C.
Following that stop, we enjoyed the open terrace of the Palais de Chaillot for one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower. Since there was reconstruction of the fountains in front of the Palais, the area on the terrace was reduced and fencing was surrounding it. But it still allowed for comfortable viewing.
We descended the couple flights of stairs and walked down an inviting pathway through the Jardin de Chaillot with its long green lawn and a multitude of brilliant flowers. A shady park bench looked very inviting. Did we mention that it was hot? 90’s F. But we were just happy to have a clear day with blue skies.
After enjoying a restful pause, we walked the remainder of the garden and crossed the Seine via the Pont d’Elena. On the other side, we were happy to buy a drink to quench our thirst. It’s amazing how much time can be consumed just walking about enjoying the Champs de Mars and the atmosphere of Paris.
Back to the Le Regent to unpack a bit and freshen up for a 7:30 dinner reservation. Before leaving home, Margie had booked the Andre’ Allard Restaurant. This restaurant had been given good reviews as a moderately-priced, typically French restaurant, and we liked that it was near our hotel.
Upon arrival at Andre’ Allard, we were greeted at the door by four or five waiters, dressed in their typical black and white suits, and given a corner booth just aside the wine bar. The meal began with a nice red wine, followed by a tasty cucumber salad, fresh baked bread, and their delicious French butter. Never have we tasted such wonderful butter!
The service was great and the wine, salad, pommes frites and bread were a “10”. However, the main part of the meal took a dive. The filet de boeuf aux poivres presented looked beautiful, generous sizes. However, both were so tough that, even with their steak knives, we could barely cut any pieces! The old cliché, “cuts like shoe leather”, could be perfectly applied. We ate very little of the boeuf, tiny pieces at that. However, the pommes frites which accompanied it were perfect!
For a tasty finale, we ordered a sorbet and cappuccinos, and left Allard’s 133.20 EUR poorer, leaving a 5 EUR tip. Margie’s eyes were heavy as we finished the sorbet and cappuccinos. A recommendation to others who might choose Allard’s would be: “Don’t order boeuf.”
A short walk to our hotel; happy to be in Paris! Off to bed by about 11 PM.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 27, 2016
PARIS. . .OURS TO EXPLORE!
Great to sleep about 9 ½ hours! About 9 AM, we descended the circular staircase to the lower level, which looked like a former wine cellar, for our complimentary breakfast. The tables were attractively set, as one might expect in France. We were served a typical French continental breakfast consisting of croissants and fresh bread, regular yogurt that needed some jam to flavor it, and café au lait.
Following breakfast, we walked down Rue Saint Andre’ Des Arts to St Michel Square, the hub of the Latin Quarter. This route is lined with shops and restaurants.
We had several museums on our list, and thought that we might visit the Musee’ d’Orsay. As we had hoped, it did not appear too crowded. The museum pass worked well to avoid the line which had formed.
We’ve visited the Musee’ d’Orsay a few times in the past, and still experienced it as a great as ever. Our main interest was impressionism…and this museum has an abundance of it: Van Gogh, Monet, Cezanne, Degas, etc. We spent most of our time in the 2nd and 5th floor exhibit rooms. So many great works. . .and not crowded. Farther on in our trip, we would be visiting towns which provided inspiration for some of these artists.
It was interesting and relieving, to see the signs posted, “No selfie sticks!”
Our 2-hour rule was easily exceeded, and we were tired as we headed toward the Champs Elysees. Although the stores lining it aren’t the appeal, it is always impressive to see the Arc de Triomphe, the architecture of the buildings, and the view down the tree-lined avenue to the Place de la Concorde. And interesting people-watching!
Café Deauville, which we had enjoyed in the past, was our choice for lunch. Finding an outdoor table, we each ordered a 16 oz. 1664 draft beer and a crepe with ham and cheese. Normally, we wouldn’t think of beer as an accompaniment to a crepe, but the hot day made a cold beer taste quite refreshing.
We easily found a nearby taxi stand and within a few minutes were facing the entrance of the beautiful Palais Garnier Opera House. (9 EUR) for the Mercedes ride to the front door. Again, no problem using credit cards in taxis. We knew that our museum pass was not valid at the Opera House. ($11 EUR each to enter).
What a gorgeous place with gold leaf everywhere, magnificent marble staircases, sculptures and paintings by famous artists of the day, and the auditorium ceiling painted by Chagall! Though we had visited the Opera Garnier several years ago, we had forgotten just how beautiful it is. On each visit to Paris, we like to focus on one outstandingly ornate building interior, and for us this trip, the Opera House was it. The audio guides were excellent ($2 EUR each).
As we crossed the plaza to the Café de la Paix nearby to enjoy smoothies, we snapped photos of the outside of the Opera Garnier, stunning in its own right. It seems that every time we re-visit a place, we observe new details, and so it was today in the Opera House. No Phantom in sight!
Returning to our hotel to freshen up for dinner, we asked Angelique for a restaurant recommendation in the area. We easily found her suggestion, Cepe e’ fique, located on Cours de Commerce, a cobbled “passage” off Rue St. Andre’des Arts. It was a small, simple French place, but the food was wonderful.
We enjoyed their onion soup and boeuf bourguinon (which was on special for 19 EUR). They recommended a vin rouge from Languedoc, an area which we would visit later in our trip. It was a perfect pairing with our meal. The beef in the bourguinon was so tender, a treat after last evening’s experience.
We lingered till about 11:30, having a great discussion with a couple from Melbourne, Australia. We spoke about what is trending in both countries, plus travel experiences.
It was a good day visiting both the Musee d’Orsay and the Opera Garnier, and just ambling around and enjoying the ambience of Paris. The delightful evening meal capped off the day.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 2016
ANOTHER FULL DAY IN PARIS!
Up at 7, even though we retired after midnight last night. Our goal was 10:00 Mass at Notre Dame.
We walked the 10-15 minutes to Notre Dame and easily found seating. There was a smooth exchange of people leaving the previous liturgy and entering for the 10 AM Mass which began very punctually.
Most of the main parts of the Mass were surprisingly and beautifully sung in Latin. But it was evident from the responses to the parts that were in French that there was a predominance of French-speaking worshipers, as one might expect. Even though visitors were permitted to walk around the perimeter while the middle sections were blocked off for worship, the liturgy was inspirational and completed in about an hour.
At the end, we shot a few photos of the stained glass windows and views of the long line forming outside on the plaza. On every visit to Paris, it’s our tradition to visit Notre Dame.
This was another beautiful, sunny day, with a perfect temperature. Luxembourg Gardens was calling us. We headed up the hill in that direction, but before venturing into the gardens, we first enjoyed brunch at an outside table of the Le Rostand Restaurant.
Tom’s croque madame and Margie’s quiche loraine were both excellent. We enjoyed our meal with a vin blanc for Margie and a beer for Tom as we watched the people arriving by bus or bikes, passing by to cross the street to the garden entrance.
The Luxembourg Gardens had never been so impressive! A perfect day to appreciate the outstanding palace, fronted by the large pond, flower gardens, pots of geraniums, green grass, with chairs and benches scattered around inviting people to relax; small sailboats in the water, lots of bodies lying out in the sun at the far end away from the walkers; even a small restaurant on the premises. Good job, Marie de Medici, for providing such a wonderful summer spot for enjoyment!
A shady spot with two inviting chairs was the perfect place for relaxation. Although we’ve seen Luxembourg Gardens in the past, we’ve never had the pleasure of enjoying it on such an ideal day. The flowers were at their peak, and all the grass was lush. Our visit lasted much longer than we had anticipated, but why not take full advantage of this beautiful garden on such a perfect day?
The palace, which now serves as the Senate, is huge and not normally able to be toured except in Patrimoine Week. Maybe in the future we’ll visit during the 3rd week of September for these “Heritage Days” and have the opportunity to tour the interiors of the Senate and other notable buildings.
After a couple of hours in the Luxembourg Garden, we tore ourselves away to walk the short distance to the Pantheon. In our past visits to Paris, we have never visited the Pantheon, and thought we’d like to step into a bit of history. Our museum pass was valid for the 2nd time…hardly worth the $98 we paid (used about ½ of that). Tourism was down in Paris, and thus the lines are not so long that the pass is necessary.
The Pantheon exterior is impressive, resembling the Pantheon of Rome. Louis XV commissioned the architect Jacques-Germain Souflot to erect this edifice in thanksgiving to God for his recovery from an illness. Due in part to financial difficulties, construction which began in 1757, lasted until 1791. The architect died before his goal of combining lightness and brightness using classical principles could be achieved. However, the Pantheon is still considered to be one of the most important architectural achievements of its time.
Over the years, the usage of the Pantheon has changed. Originally a church honoring St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, after the French Revolution the new government declared it a mausoleum dedicated to venerable patriots, scientists, philosophers, artists etc. On and off it has been returned to a church, but now it is again mostly a mausoleum underneath and the first floor a large open space with impressive statuary and columns.
We visited the undercroft, quite a large system with main passages and small offshoots where the notable citizens of France are interred. We visited several crypts, among them Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie, and Louis Braille, and viewed some videos showing how the Parisians honor the passing of their famous citizens.
Returning upstairs, we spent a couple of minutes observing the Foucault pendulum, a device conceived in 1851 by the French physicist Leon Foucault as a simple demonstration of the rotation of the earth. There were quite a few people gathered around the viewing area.
Following our Pantheon visit, which again went longer than we had anticipated, we enjoyed some sorbet and café au lait at Le Comptoir nearby. In Paris, one is never far from a café!
Each trip we, especially Margie, like to visit one high spot to enjoy a panoramic view of Paris. We’ve enjoyed Montmartre at sunset a few times, the Eiffel Tower, climbed the Arc de Triomphe, etc. but never made it to top of the Tour Montparnasse. On a previous trip, it began to rain just as we were ready to ascend.
Given the ideally clear day, we headed in that direction, and paid our 15 EUR each for a trip to the 56th floor. This was a perfect day to take advantage of the 360’ views of Paris. We learned that the elevator goes only to floor 52, with the remaining floors reached by a stairway. That is, unless one has reservations at the Le Ciel de Paris Restaurant. An elevator goes right to that area on the 56th floor. That might be on our “to do” list for our next visit.
Until more recently, after the Eiffel Tower, Tour Montparnasse was the second highest building in Paris. Several years ago the Tour Fust at La Defense has taken over that distinction. But whatever the height ranking, the view was outstanding. We took many photos on the first observation level, and then walked the other 75 steps up to the top terrace to view the city. Fantastic views in all directions.
From the Tour Montparnasse, we caught a bus to Boul. St. Germain where we intended to have dinner. Another great area of Paris, it’s close to our Le Regent Hotel. So many appealing outdoor/indoor restaurants/cafes…so many people frequenting them.
A happy find was the Brasserie Vagenende. We chose to sit in the more casual outdoors and shared the melt-in-your-mouth filet de boeuf chateaubriand béarnaise au poivre with their outstanding pommes frites. Wine and beer, of course, with the meal topped off with sorbet and café’au lait. The service was excellent.
The inside of Vagenende was beautiful. Margie pointed out the well-dressed people eating there and we both agreed that the Vagenende was a definite repeat ($67). On a return visit, this will be at the top of our restaurant list!
We returned to our hotel via a walk down Rue Gregoire de Tours and took note of an Italian restaurant that Angelique had earlier recommended. It was closed, but looked appealing for our next trip! In Paris, we always plan for that next visit!
The atmosphere was lively around Rue Buce. A small Dixieland Jazz band was playing in the area of many outdoor cafes. We lingered for a while, enjoying their entertainment and marveling at the large number of people out this Sunday night.
We headed back to Le Regent, and did some packing in order to be more ready for our morning check-out. Good night just after 11 PM. Another wonderful day in Paris!
MONDAY. AUGUST 29, 2016
ILE ST. LOUIS; PM: MONTPARNASSE
Up at 7:30 or so…continental breakfast…check-out wasn’t until noon…stored our luggage at Le Regent. Today was the day we would join a tour group at the Pullman Hotel in Montparnasse. We were ready for “Prong Two” of our journey, our “South of France Sampler”.
After checking out of Le Regent, we decided to make this a more leisurely day. We headed down Rue Saint Andre’ des Arts toward the Latin Quarter, stopping in some of the many shops. After the days of sun and blue skies, today was a bit overcast, and even a bit drizzly, but it didn’t last long.
We stopped by the famous English bookstore, Shakespeare and Company, and purchased a paperback copy of Animal Farm, a timely subject. Afterward, we walked along a section of the Seine which we do not ordinarily visit.
Ile St. Louis is usually on our list, and after doing some leisurely window shopping, we chose La Chaumiere En Isles for our lunch. It’s situated just over the bridge with a nice view of Notre Dame. A wonderful salad for Margie and omelette for Tom….with drinks and café au lait , and great service. (53,50 EUR).
Following that delightful lunch, we walked several more streets on Ile St. Louis, and wended our way back to Le Regent. The Notre Dame gardens, with flowers still in bloom, provided a pleasant stop.
Angelique, our fave, was on duty at the hotel, and called a cab that arrived within three minutes. A few miles and 15 EUR later we arrived at the Pullman Montparnasse Hotel where we were quickly checked in and our luggage was soon delivered to room 1101. It was here that we were to meet in the lobby to begin our travel to Burgundy, the Alps du Rhone, Cote d’Azur, Provence, Languedoc, and the Dordogne. We used the opportunity to shower and dress for the evening.
The Tour Group gathered in the lobby at 6 PM. We met Laurent, our native French director, whom we learned has been with the company for 17 years. We immediately liked him! And, as we would experience, he proved to be the perfect guide!
A “Welcome Dinner” was held in the Latin Quarter at Chez Clement Restaurant. The evening turned out to be a good experience. Champagne was served. It’s always a bit unnerving to meet totally new people and wonder just how things will go. However, we were seated with three Aussie couples. We sat across from Rob and Yvonne from Australia, not realizing that they would be our favorite couple and that we’d have quite a few experiences together.
The first item on the menu was a tasty French onion soup. We were treated to some escargot. Though not being inclined toward it, we thought it worth a try. The entrée (or “main” as the French say) was a deliciously prepared chicken, with accompaniments of potatoes and veggie. We were given our choice of beer, wine, etc. And a tasty dessert. Overall, we enjoyed the camaraderie and the first meal was very pleasant.
Back to the hotel just before 9 PM. Laurent pointed out that the Eiffel Tower, which we could see if we walked up a block or so to a large roundabout, would be lit up and “sparkling” at 9 PM. So we enjoyed the walk and the light show. It would be our farewell to Paris until our return in two weeks.
Tomorrow it’s off to Burgundy!
Nov 1st, 2016, 07:02 AM
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Maitaitom, glad to have you on board. Goal is to keep pressing forward on this TR!
Denisea, Always good to hear from you. Yes. . .next visit to Allard's we'll have the sole Meunier.
We didn't feel appropriately dressed to try the bar in Le Ciel; only the casual place on Level 52.
Denisea, Always good to hear from you. Yes. . .next visit to Allard's we'll have the sole Meunier.
We didn't feel appropriately dressed to try the bar in Le Ciel; only the casual place on Level 52.
Nov 1st, 2016, 06:06 PM
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TUESDAY, AUGUST 30, 2016
When we travel independently, we are normally early risers, not wanting to lose out on the opportunities of the area we’re visiting. So we easily fell into the morning routine of a tour: luggage in hallway one hour before departure; that is, unless you prefer to load your own on the coach.
The morning began, as most mornings, with a buffet breakfast spread, including eggs and all the goodies one could hope for.
We left at 8:30; met the traffic which Parisians everyday experience on the peripherique leaving the city center, and within a short time were on our way to Troyes, a medieval city along the Seine about 93 miles southeast of Paris.
We made a stop after 1 ½ hours for restrooms/café au lait; then on to Troyes. We spent from 11:30 till 1:30 in Troyes with a tour of the medieval city center, led by Laurent, lunch, and time to explore on our own.
Troyes (pronounced like “twaw”) has a large town square, with an impressive town hall, and narrow cobbled streets with half-timbered houses, mainly of the 16th century.
One very interesting feature is that the second and higher floors of the buildings are wider than the ground floors. This custom developed because taxes were assessed on the square footage of ground area occupied. The upper floors of houses were so close that a cat could easily jump from one house to the other. Apparently, living in Troyes is slowly becoming popular again.
Although a typical French city, Troyes was occupied in the 1st Century BC by the Romans. It was the crossroads for transportation since the Roman era, primarily the Via Agrippa, and still is a main hub for highways and train connections. Early on, the city became a financial and commercial center. The measurement used to this day for gold and silver, the “troy ounce”, is said to have its origins in the city of Troyes.
Located at the southern tip of the Champagne region, its city center is shaped like the cork of a champagne bottle. However, its champagne isn’t known to have the quality of Epernay and regions around Reims. Another interesting note is that Troyes is the home of Lacoste clothing.
Because it was another beautiful day, we chose to enjoy our lunch outdoors in the town square, sharing a sandwich and pastry with light coke (6.80 EUR) purchased at La Mil Caline, a “take-away” bistro.
While enjoying our lunch, we could get a good view of the medieval portion of the city, limited to a few blocks, and observe the multitude of outdoor cafes.
The city has many narrow alley ways leading to the main square lined with numerous cafes and restaurants. After our picnic lunch, we walked through its streets and alleys, stopping at the cathedral and taking note of all the shops.
Following that stop in Troyes, it was on to the region of Burgundy (aka Burgogne). We learned that about 200 million years ago, the region was part of a vast, tropical sea which created limestone soils, discovered to be perfect for grape growing.
Winemaking goes back to the Romans in the 1st century AD, but it was Catholic monks that established the vineyards in the Middle Ages, growing grapes for the church and the aristocratic Dukes of Burgundy.
After the French Revolution, the land was given back to the people. Today, these vintners take pride in their attachment to the land. As we traveled on, we would learn so much more about this land and the many family-owned wineries who continue the production and uphold the reputation of the Burgundy wines.
We learned early on that Laurent was a great source of information, and as we traveled he would share so much about areas we were visiting. So as we drove from Troyes to Chablis, he began giving us info about the wine of Burgundy.
The main grapes of the Burgundy region are pinot noir and chardonnay, regulated by the French government. We would learn the meaning of “AOC”, “Appellation d’origine controlee” and the strict production conditions imposed by the French government.
As we proceeded on to the city of Chablis, we enjoyed the scenery along the back highways which was, as one might expect, mostly gently hills of grape vines. Approaching the quaint little town of Chablis, we crossed a small canal surrounded with colorful flower boxes. A welcoming sight!
In Chablis, we made our first winery stop. At La Cave du Connoisseur we were introduced to Chablis wine. We have always enjoyed wine, but have not been familiar with the French appellations and the government regulations for control. And. in most cases, haven’t focused on French wines.
The “tasting” included four levels and explanations of the various qualities of the wine. It was informative to begin learning about the different growing conditions to produce the levels of wine, the effects of climate, the importance of the glass shape and the proper way of most appreciating the wine.
We also learned that all Chablis wine is produced from chardonnay grapes which are small, round, and with a limey-yellow color. These vines prefer moist growing conditions in rich, limestone, or chalky soil. They like humidity. We were glad that we had enjoyed lunch before imbibing the four levels of Chablis offered.
That winery visit in Chablis was a welcome treat, and a fitting introduction to Burgundy. Then it was two more hours to travel to Dijon, the historic and modern capitol of Burgundy. We traveled continuing miles of green vineyards along the terraced hillsides. Rock outcroppings contributed to the beauty of the countryside.
Again, as we were traveling, we received so much info from Laurent. He described some of the history of Dijon, home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th century. He described the “Wine Route” we would be traveling, and a visit to a private winery which we could anticipate on tomorrow’s agenda.
The total drive today was about five hours, albeit comfortably broken up by various stops of interest. Tom caught a little snooze on the last leg to Dijon, a luxury he couldn’t enjoy if we were driving!
In Dijon, we were happy to check into the Grand Hotel La Cloche (the bell) for two nights. Our lovely room # 117 was well-appointed and beautifully decorated. The wall behind the bed was a large Renaissance sketch mural. One interesting feature was the glass wall between the bedroom and the bathroom vanity area. It was graced with a framed hanging Renoir print. There was a drape to pull for privacy.
After arrival, and getting ourselves settled, we had time to walk around the city center, enjoying the Square D’Arcy, which includes the park across the street from our hotel. This lovely park has a large flowing fountain which feeds into a sizeable pond, flanked by some statuary.
We learned that only a few years ago, all vehicle traffic within the city center of Dijon was cut-off and the area is now a pedestrian-only.
Entering under the triumphal arch, a mini Arc de Triomphe, we explored a few of the shops lining each side of the main street: Rue de la Liberte.
After our exploration of a bit of the immediate area, we headed back for a 7:30 meal in the hotel restaurant. As with many activities, we could have chosen to opt-out. However, we saw that the restaurant was attractive and elegantly set for the dinner, and it looked inviting for our evening meal.
It proved to be a delicious meal of beef bourguignon. Why not in Burgogne? It’s a fave of both of us. Again, a delicious salad, veggie, dessert, bread, and wine were included. The meal was excellent, and with enjoyable company. We sat with Yvonne and Rob whom we had met the previous evening in Paris.
We were back in our room by 9:15 or so. Another nice full day that passed quickly, with new experiences and learning about wine and France. We were glad to have time to catch up on our trip notes and e-mail.
Tomorrow: Dijon City Center
Wine Route to Beaune
Fixin Winery Visit
When we travel independently, we are normally early risers, not wanting to lose out on the opportunities of the area we’re visiting. So we easily fell into the morning routine of a tour: luggage in hallway one hour before departure; that is, unless you prefer to load your own on the coach.
The morning began, as most mornings, with a buffet breakfast spread, including eggs and all the goodies one could hope for.
We left at 8:30; met the traffic which Parisians everyday experience on the peripherique leaving the city center, and within a short time were on our way to Troyes, a medieval city along the Seine about 93 miles southeast of Paris.
We made a stop after 1 ½ hours for restrooms/café au lait; then on to Troyes. We spent from 11:30 till 1:30 in Troyes with a tour of the medieval city center, led by Laurent, lunch, and time to explore on our own.
Troyes (pronounced like “twaw”) has a large town square, with an impressive town hall, and narrow cobbled streets with half-timbered houses, mainly of the 16th century.
One very interesting feature is that the second and higher floors of the buildings are wider than the ground floors. This custom developed because taxes were assessed on the square footage of ground area occupied. The upper floors of houses were so close that a cat could easily jump from one house to the other. Apparently, living in Troyes is slowly becoming popular again.
Although a typical French city, Troyes was occupied in the 1st Century BC by the Romans. It was the crossroads for transportation since the Roman era, primarily the Via Agrippa, and still is a main hub for highways and train connections. Early on, the city became a financial and commercial center. The measurement used to this day for gold and silver, the “troy ounce”, is said to have its origins in the city of Troyes.
Located at the southern tip of the Champagne region, its city center is shaped like the cork of a champagne bottle. However, its champagne isn’t known to have the quality of Epernay and regions around Reims. Another interesting note is that Troyes is the home of Lacoste clothing.
Because it was another beautiful day, we chose to enjoy our lunch outdoors in the town square, sharing a sandwich and pastry with light coke (6.80 EUR) purchased at La Mil Caline, a “take-away” bistro.
While enjoying our lunch, we could get a good view of the medieval portion of the city, limited to a few blocks, and observe the multitude of outdoor cafes.
The city has many narrow alley ways leading to the main square lined with numerous cafes and restaurants. After our picnic lunch, we walked through its streets and alleys, stopping at the cathedral and taking note of all the shops.
Following that stop in Troyes, it was on to the region of Burgundy (aka Burgogne). We learned that about 200 million years ago, the region was part of a vast, tropical sea which created limestone soils, discovered to be perfect for grape growing.
Winemaking goes back to the Romans in the 1st century AD, but it was Catholic monks that established the vineyards in the Middle Ages, growing grapes for the church and the aristocratic Dukes of Burgundy.
After the French Revolution, the land was given back to the people. Today, these vintners take pride in their attachment to the land. As we traveled on, we would learn so much more about this land and the many family-owned wineries who continue the production and uphold the reputation of the Burgundy wines.
We learned early on that Laurent was a great source of information, and as we traveled he would share so much about areas we were visiting. So as we drove from Troyes to Chablis, he began giving us info about the wine of Burgundy.
The main grapes of the Burgundy region are pinot noir and chardonnay, regulated by the French government. We would learn the meaning of “AOC”, “Appellation d’origine controlee” and the strict production conditions imposed by the French government.
As we proceeded on to the city of Chablis, we enjoyed the scenery along the back highways which was, as one might expect, mostly gently hills of grape vines. Approaching the quaint little town of Chablis, we crossed a small canal surrounded with colorful flower boxes. A welcoming sight!
In Chablis, we made our first winery stop. At La Cave du Connoisseur we were introduced to Chablis wine. We have always enjoyed wine, but have not been familiar with the French appellations and the government regulations for control. And. in most cases, haven’t focused on French wines.
The “tasting” included four levels and explanations of the various qualities of the wine. It was informative to begin learning about the different growing conditions to produce the levels of wine, the effects of climate, the importance of the glass shape and the proper way of most appreciating the wine.
We also learned that all Chablis wine is produced from chardonnay grapes which are small, round, and with a limey-yellow color. These vines prefer moist growing conditions in rich, limestone, or chalky soil. They like humidity. We were glad that we had enjoyed lunch before imbibing the four levels of Chablis offered.
That winery visit in Chablis was a welcome treat, and a fitting introduction to Burgundy. Then it was two more hours to travel to Dijon, the historic and modern capitol of Burgundy. We traveled continuing miles of green vineyards along the terraced hillsides. Rock outcroppings contributed to the beauty of the countryside.
Again, as we were traveling, we received so much info from Laurent. He described some of the history of Dijon, home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th century. He described the “Wine Route” we would be traveling, and a visit to a private winery which we could anticipate on tomorrow’s agenda.
The total drive today was about five hours, albeit comfortably broken up by various stops of interest. Tom caught a little snooze on the last leg to Dijon, a luxury he couldn’t enjoy if we were driving!
In Dijon, we were happy to check into the Grand Hotel La Cloche (the bell) for two nights. Our lovely room # 117 was well-appointed and beautifully decorated. The wall behind the bed was a large Renaissance sketch mural. One interesting feature was the glass wall between the bedroom and the bathroom vanity area. It was graced with a framed hanging Renoir print. There was a drape to pull for privacy.
After arrival, and getting ourselves settled, we had time to walk around the city center, enjoying the Square D’Arcy, which includes the park across the street from our hotel. This lovely park has a large flowing fountain which feeds into a sizeable pond, flanked by some statuary.
We learned that only a few years ago, all vehicle traffic within the city center of Dijon was cut-off and the area is now a pedestrian-only.
Entering under the triumphal arch, a mini Arc de Triomphe, we explored a few of the shops lining each side of the main street: Rue de la Liberte.
After our exploration of a bit of the immediate area, we headed back for a 7:30 meal in the hotel restaurant. As with many activities, we could have chosen to opt-out. However, we saw that the restaurant was attractive and elegantly set for the dinner, and it looked inviting for our evening meal.
It proved to be a delicious meal of beef bourguignon. Why not in Burgogne? It’s a fave of both of us. Again, a delicious salad, veggie, dessert, bread, and wine were included. The meal was excellent, and with enjoyable company. We sat with Yvonne and Rob whom we had met the previous evening in Paris.
We were back in our room by 9:15 or so. Another nice full day that passed quickly, with new experiences and learning about wine and France. We were glad to have time to catch up on our trip notes and e-mail.
Tomorrow: Dijon City Center
Wine Route to Beaune
Fixin Winery Visit
Nov 2nd, 2016, 05:34 AM
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Enjoying your report. Thanks for taking the time to write it.
Just curious....how many people on the tour? Full sized motor coach or something smaller? Could you provide a link to the tour.
Thanks, kay
Just curious....how many people on the tour? Full sized motor coach or something smaller? Could you provide a link to the tour.
Thanks, kay
Nov 2nd, 2016, 06:28 AM
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Once again, a well written and interesting trip report Tom. Thank you for sharing.
I myself just returned from a special purpose weeks trip to Paris (Oct 9 -16) and visited many of the sites you did. I'm no stranger to Paris either (6th visit this time besides living and studying there briefly 5 years ago) but there is always delight in discovering new neighbourhoods and sites, as well as revisiting old ones and seeing them through new eyes. I was exhausted by my purposed schedule but still had a great time.
Looking forward to more.
I myself just returned from a special purpose weeks trip to Paris (Oct 9 -16) and visited many of the sites you did. I'm no stranger to Paris either (6th visit this time besides living and studying there briefly 5 years ago) but there is always delight in discovering new neighbourhoods and sites, as well as revisiting old ones and seeing them through new eyes. I was exhausted by my purposed schedule but still had a great time.
Looking forward to more.
Nov 2nd, 2016, 07:34 AM
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Kansas, Schnauzer, Adelaidean, thanks for the nice comments!
FuryFluffy, glad you appreciate our combo of historical info with the personal. Our target audiences include, of course, the Fodorites; but also friends and family who are interested, but not as well-traveled, and ourselves. Our TR serves as our travel memories. Thanks for following along!
Kay P & Scootair, we hope to include observations of our tour experience as we move along. The company we traveled with was Insight Vacations which we booked through AAA. We traveled on a very comfortable coach. . .about 34 people, a nice mixture of Aussies, Canadians, and Americans.
Mathieu, always great to hear from you. We just picked up your post about the Toronto Symphony's tribute to Syrian refugees. How inspiring! We'll listen to YouTube, and respond.
Thanks so much for following along!
FuryFluffy, glad you appreciate our combo of historical info with the personal. Our target audiences include, of course, the Fodorites; but also friends and family who are interested, but not as well-traveled, and ourselves. Our TR serves as our travel memories. Thanks for following along!
Kay P & Scootair, we hope to include observations of our tour experience as we move along. The company we traveled with was Insight Vacations which we booked through AAA. We traveled on a very comfortable coach. . .about 34 people, a nice mixture of Aussies, Canadians, and Americans.
Mathieu, always great to hear from you. We just picked up your post about the Toronto Symphony's tribute to Syrian refugees. How inspiring! We'll listen to YouTube, and respond.
Thanks so much for following along!
Nov 3rd, 2016, 11:48 AM
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WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31, 2016
Dijon Town Center
"Route des Grand Crus" to Beaune
Winery Tour/Dinner
After breakfast overlooking the lovely garden area of the hotel, we were ready for a walking discovery of the historical center of Dijon, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site on July 4, 2015.
During the 11th to the late 15th centuries, when Dijon was home to the Dukes of Burgundy, it was a town of tremendous power and wealth, with the reputation of a great European center of art, learning, and science.
Our tour began in D’Arcy Square, adjacent to our La Cloche Hotel. D’Arcy Square is named for the leading edge man, Henri D’Arcy, an engineer who brought water to the city of Dijon, the first city in France to receive it. This was quite a feat in its day.
Entering the pubic walkway leading to the main attractions of the city, we again passed through their Arc de Triumph. On the rear of the arc is a plaque paying tribute to Thomas Jefferson, marking his relationship with Lafayette and his visit to Dijon, part of his three-month exploration of France in 1787.
We continued our walking tour down the Rue de la Rupublique, following the Owl’s Trail. This is a series of numbered brass plaques with engravings of an owl, seen on the sidewalks and streets, which guide visitors around to the city’s main places of interest. Apparently the owl (choudette) has been adopted as a symbol for the city. Laurent’s commentary made the walk extremely informative, as he filled in so many interesting details.
We saw the highlights of Dijon center: among them the Palais of the Dukes of Burgundy, which is undergoing a major renovation, the Musee’ des Beaux Arts, several churches of Dijon, and the Market area.
On an outside corner of the Notre Dame church, the oldest in Dijon, is the first owl in Dijon, sculpted from stone. Apparently, for three centuries people have been touching it with their left hands, believing their wishes would come true. It appeared quite worn, so we hope that all of the people who followed this superstition enjoyed good fortune!
Walking around the city, we again contrasted architecture from the 15th through the 19th centuries. Even the city pharmacy is in a 16th century structure with wooden beams. We noted the glazed tile roofs of terracotta, green, yellow, and black, arranged in geometric patterns, which are characteristic of Burgundy, and which we would see as we traveled around.
In one square, there is a sculpture of the wine god, Bacchus, very appropriate for this wine producing capitol.
We learned the meaning of the window decal “Artisan” indicating that only fresh ingredients are used and that the food is prepared in house. Of course, a popular stop was the Maille Moutarde store, one of the premier Dijon Mustard producers. One fact about Dijon mustard that we had never known was just how many varieties there are, and how much interest fellow travelers would have in them.
We spent more time exploring Dijon center on our own, and enjoying a café’ au lait before our trip to Beaune, by way of the famous ”Routes des Grand Crus”.
It took a few minutes to negotiate out of Dijon proper, and catch the back road. Once on the Grand Cru Route, we experienced the gently rolling miles of green vineyards. Beaune is about 29 miles south of Dijon. The section of the “Routes des Grand Crus” north of Beaune is referred to as the “Cote de Nuits.”
We normally wouldn’t be motivated to remember that fact, except that the Burgundy region is recognized as one of the most popular regions of wine production in the world. The Burgundy vineyards produce some of the most prestigious and expensive wines. The top wines are mostly produced on this narrow strip of land running south from Dijon, considered the region of “Grand Cru“vineyards.
Laurent explained more details about the Burgundy region, the grapes of Burgundy: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the rigorous work of the growers. Apparently, each vineyard has its own secrets, traditions, and special techniques. Their role of “vigneron” or winemaker is a way of life and a source of great pride for them.
Although we’re wine amateurs, in contrast to some of our friends, and in no way aspiring to become connoisseurs, we did find the information about wines which we were learning very interesting, and were happy that a portion of our travels included this outstanding wine area.
The middle and upper slopes of the vineyards receive the most exposure to sun and best drainage, and produce the finest wines: the “Grand Crus”. The “Premium Crus” come from somewhat less favorably exposed slopes. The relatively ordinary wines are produced from grapes in flat territory, close to the villages.
As we passed medieval towns, picturesque villages, beautiful chateaus and abbeys, we made intermittent stops. We learned about the term “Clos” on so many vineyards, meaning “enclosure” by stone walls or iron gates. This practice began as a method for owners to protect their vineyards from theft. The walls provide some protection from winter winds. However, the term "clos" has come to be used by other commercial wineries.
One winery of particular interest was Clos de Vougeot, originally owned by Cistercian monks. It became property of the state until the French Revolution, and since has had several owners.
The Grand Cru wines from Clos de Vougeot are in such demand that they are reserved years in advance, and are served to heads of state or purchased by only the very wealthy. Confident that we would not attempt to put our names on the list, we proceeded onward to Beaune, where we were looking forward to lunch.
We entered Beaune through its impressive rampart, and witnessed its ring road. Unlike Chablis, Beaune is not a town that bears the name of a famous wine. However, it is still very much involved in the wine culture. Although it produces its share of reds, the vineyards around Beaune apparently produce a somewhat higher percentage of white than those farther north, as well as a small percentage of sparkling wines. But as we enter the ramparts of Beaune, wine isn’t the first thing on our minds. It’s food, as we were hungry.
The city was having an outdoor market, including fresh fruit, which looked appealing. However, we soon learned that these markets do not stay open too long, something we would experience in other cities which we would visit. At 1 PM, they would begin closing.
We wended our way around the market, purchasing some fruit for snacking. After it closed, we walked the old town, which is quite compact. Its surrounding narrow streets are lined with shops and old buildings, historical mansions, half-timbered houses, and flowered squares.
The fruit snack was temporarily satisfying, but we wanted to have lunch before visiting the most significant attraction in Beaune, the Hotel-Dieu. We chose the Baltard Café’, which overlooks the square, for a rose’ and a shared croque madame. Laurent had introduced us to the rose’ of Burgundy, explaining that it was a refreshing mid-day wine. So we tried it with lunch and used an expression which we had picked up from Aussie friends: “Spot on!”
Then we headed to the Hospices de Beaune, better known as Hotel-Dieu, a masterpiece of 15th century Flemish architecture, which has been preserved and renovated.The exterior of the whole complex looks ordinary from the town square, except for its peaks and spires, but the Hotel-Dieu courtyard is outstanding with its colorful varnished-tiled roof, a Burgundian feature which we had seen on buildings in Dijon.
Upon entering the Hotel-Dieu, or Hospices, we were happy to receive audio guides to lead us through this sizable museum.
Hotel-Dieu was a vital hospital for its time. Established in 1443, it was constructed under the supervision of a chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy and his wife. Its patients included those wounded in war, notably the Hundred Years’ War with England; others having serious diseases, or the destitute. The finest materials were used in order to ensure its longevity.
Mostly church people (nuns) served the 120 or so patients, many of whom were there to die. Many had no relatives and so gave their inheritance to the hospice. It was interesting, and a bit disconcerting, to see the rudimentary surgical instruments available at the time. There was a pharmacy where medicines were mixed. Part of the museum showed the kitchen, and an impressive Great Hall for the Poor, a long room with beds lining each wall, each cubicle draped with a brilliant red fabric. A chapel was at one end.
Artistic highlights in the Hotel-Dieu were beautiful tapestries and the masterpiece Flemish painting, the polyptych-nine panels, depicting “The Last Judgment” by Rogier Van der Weyden.
We were impressed to learn that the mission of the Hospices was carried on until the early 1970’s when a new hospital was constructed. But the vineyards donated to the Hotel-Dieu produce outstanding wines which are sold at an annual auction to benefit the Hospices and the local hospital.
Although we had become aware of wineries surrounding Beaune, on this trip our visits would be in different areas. In fact, we would enjoy one such winery visit this evening in a village closer to Dijon.
After a bit more exploration of Beaune, we exited through its ramparts and made the lovely return drive to Dijon. Upon arrival, we had some time to refresh in our hotel room, enjoying more Beaune fruit with a café. We could utilize an hour or so to venture into the Dijon town center before leaving for our winery/dinner venture at 6 PM. We even checked out the Galleries Lafayette on the main street.
Our destination was the small village of Fixin along the Wine Route, not far from Dijon. Here we would visit a local winery, Clos St. Louis. Having visited wineries in California, we almost decided to skip it and have dinner in Dijon. However, we were happy that we did not miss this special occasion. Laurent knew the owner of Clos St. Louis, and that made the experience very personal.
Phillipe, the owner, Martine, his wife and their daughter provided our evening experience. Phillipe lead us on a tour of his vineyard and discussed about every aspect of wine production…the plant, the amount of sun, soil effects, rain, location of the vines, time to harvest (usually late September), etc. He described the weather in Burgundy: cold winters, often with hard rains, hail, and frost, and warm summers, all having effect on the vineyards; consequently on the wines produced. Some years are better than others.
Phillipe described how vines can live 40-50 years; that new vines are methodically introduced; that roots grow very deep. Phillipe picked up soil to let us see the consistency, and demonstrated the method for pruning the vines and picking the grapes. Phillipe was dedicated to hand-picking the grapes which he believes affect the quality of his wines vs. the usage of machines which have become popular, even among his neighbors.
We learned about the French Government laws regarding the wine growing industry, controlling the types and amounts of vines grown. Finally, we grasped the meaning of “terroir”, a word we had seen on a restaurant name. We learned that it is not simply the land, but the symbiosis of grape, soil, climate, vineyard placement, and the human touch all rolled into one. So Burgundy is all about “terroir”. Next time we’re in Paris we’ll appreciate more the name of a little restaurant near our hotel: Vin et Terroir.
Phillipe led us through his whole wine production area: vats, barrels, bottles, etc. and offered tastings of different levels of the Pinot Noirs. Several people were asking, “Which is the best wine?” trying to determine which grade of wine, including cost, is good, better, best. We liked Phillipe’s answer: “The one you like the best!”
Clos St. Louis has been handed down from Phillipe’s grandfather, and he is very proud of carrying on the tradition. In fact, his daughter is now in college focusing on the aspects of agriculture relating to grape growing and wine production. Phillipe hopes that she will continue the family tradition at Clos St. Louis. He’s extremely proud of the many awards which his wines have received, prominently displaying them on a wall of his winery. We couldn’t resist taking a photo of Phillipe with his awards.
Our learning of the dedication and work involved in maintaining a vineyard and wine production has left us with a new respect and appreciation for the vintners and for their wines.
Following the tour and wine tastings, we proceeded to the family house where Martine had prepared a wonderful meal. Their dining room was large enough to accommodate three oval tables, each seating six. Perfect for our group.
Apparently, Martine doesn’t particularly like wine, but she delights in being an excellent cook. Her salad had slivers of roast duck on it; the main was a delectable chicken with fromage and other spices! (As we continued our trip, we would learn about the government ratings of chickens.) The main dish included a tasty rice with broccoli and was accompanied with small samples of wines of differing levels. Then followed three cheeses as a palate cleanser, and an appealing dessert of a small fresh peach, pear pieces, ice cream, and some berry topping. And a finale of sparkling wine! A grand feast! (No worries as we had a DD!)
Every few minutes during the meal, Phillipe would pop out of the kitchen and have something comical to say. Laurent and Phillipe had a great chemistry; both were humorous, interacting like old friends do! That made the occasion especially delightful!
It was a short ride from Fixin back to the La Cloche Hotel in Dijon. En route, we discussed how happy we were not to have missed out on the special evening.
Returning to our room, we followed our normal night routine. Tom summarizes the day’s events on the laptop, from notes scribbled as we travel, which Margie later uses for writing our TR. Margie gets clothes, etc. organized for the following day. We enjoy recapping experiences, and prepping for yet another adventure-filled tomorrow.
Tomorrow: CHAMONIX-a Highlight Day for us!
Dijon Town Center
"Route des Grand Crus" to Beaune
Winery Tour/Dinner
After breakfast overlooking the lovely garden area of the hotel, we were ready for a walking discovery of the historical center of Dijon, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site on July 4, 2015.
During the 11th to the late 15th centuries, when Dijon was home to the Dukes of Burgundy, it was a town of tremendous power and wealth, with the reputation of a great European center of art, learning, and science.
Our tour began in D’Arcy Square, adjacent to our La Cloche Hotel. D’Arcy Square is named for the leading edge man, Henri D’Arcy, an engineer who brought water to the city of Dijon, the first city in France to receive it. This was quite a feat in its day.
Entering the pubic walkway leading to the main attractions of the city, we again passed through their Arc de Triumph. On the rear of the arc is a plaque paying tribute to Thomas Jefferson, marking his relationship with Lafayette and his visit to Dijon, part of his three-month exploration of France in 1787.
We continued our walking tour down the Rue de la Rupublique, following the Owl’s Trail. This is a series of numbered brass plaques with engravings of an owl, seen on the sidewalks and streets, which guide visitors around to the city’s main places of interest. Apparently the owl (choudette) has been adopted as a symbol for the city. Laurent’s commentary made the walk extremely informative, as he filled in so many interesting details.
We saw the highlights of Dijon center: among them the Palais of the Dukes of Burgundy, which is undergoing a major renovation, the Musee’ des Beaux Arts, several churches of Dijon, and the Market area.
On an outside corner of the Notre Dame church, the oldest in Dijon, is the first owl in Dijon, sculpted from stone. Apparently, for three centuries people have been touching it with their left hands, believing their wishes would come true. It appeared quite worn, so we hope that all of the people who followed this superstition enjoyed good fortune!
Walking around the city, we again contrasted architecture from the 15th through the 19th centuries. Even the city pharmacy is in a 16th century structure with wooden beams. We noted the glazed tile roofs of terracotta, green, yellow, and black, arranged in geometric patterns, which are characteristic of Burgundy, and which we would see as we traveled around.
In one square, there is a sculpture of the wine god, Bacchus, very appropriate for this wine producing capitol.
We learned the meaning of the window decal “Artisan” indicating that only fresh ingredients are used and that the food is prepared in house. Of course, a popular stop was the Maille Moutarde store, one of the premier Dijon Mustard producers. One fact about Dijon mustard that we had never known was just how many varieties there are, and how much interest fellow travelers would have in them.
We spent more time exploring Dijon center on our own, and enjoying a café’ au lait before our trip to Beaune, by way of the famous ”Routes des Grand Crus”.
It took a few minutes to negotiate out of Dijon proper, and catch the back road. Once on the Grand Cru Route, we experienced the gently rolling miles of green vineyards. Beaune is about 29 miles south of Dijon. The section of the “Routes des Grand Crus” north of Beaune is referred to as the “Cote de Nuits.”
We normally wouldn’t be motivated to remember that fact, except that the Burgundy region is recognized as one of the most popular regions of wine production in the world. The Burgundy vineyards produce some of the most prestigious and expensive wines. The top wines are mostly produced on this narrow strip of land running south from Dijon, considered the region of “Grand Cru“vineyards.
Laurent explained more details about the Burgundy region, the grapes of Burgundy: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the rigorous work of the growers. Apparently, each vineyard has its own secrets, traditions, and special techniques. Their role of “vigneron” or winemaker is a way of life and a source of great pride for them.
Although we’re wine amateurs, in contrast to some of our friends, and in no way aspiring to become connoisseurs, we did find the information about wines which we were learning very interesting, and were happy that a portion of our travels included this outstanding wine area.
The middle and upper slopes of the vineyards receive the most exposure to sun and best drainage, and produce the finest wines: the “Grand Crus”. The “Premium Crus” come from somewhat less favorably exposed slopes. The relatively ordinary wines are produced from grapes in flat territory, close to the villages.
As we passed medieval towns, picturesque villages, beautiful chateaus and abbeys, we made intermittent stops. We learned about the term “Clos” on so many vineyards, meaning “enclosure” by stone walls or iron gates. This practice began as a method for owners to protect their vineyards from theft. The walls provide some protection from winter winds. However, the term "clos" has come to be used by other commercial wineries.
One winery of particular interest was Clos de Vougeot, originally owned by Cistercian monks. It became property of the state until the French Revolution, and since has had several owners.
The Grand Cru wines from Clos de Vougeot are in such demand that they are reserved years in advance, and are served to heads of state or purchased by only the very wealthy. Confident that we would not attempt to put our names on the list, we proceeded onward to Beaune, where we were looking forward to lunch.
We entered Beaune through its impressive rampart, and witnessed its ring road. Unlike Chablis, Beaune is not a town that bears the name of a famous wine. However, it is still very much involved in the wine culture. Although it produces its share of reds, the vineyards around Beaune apparently produce a somewhat higher percentage of white than those farther north, as well as a small percentage of sparkling wines. But as we enter the ramparts of Beaune, wine isn’t the first thing on our minds. It’s food, as we were hungry.
The city was having an outdoor market, including fresh fruit, which looked appealing. However, we soon learned that these markets do not stay open too long, something we would experience in other cities which we would visit. At 1 PM, they would begin closing.
We wended our way around the market, purchasing some fruit for snacking. After it closed, we walked the old town, which is quite compact. Its surrounding narrow streets are lined with shops and old buildings, historical mansions, half-timbered houses, and flowered squares.
The fruit snack was temporarily satisfying, but we wanted to have lunch before visiting the most significant attraction in Beaune, the Hotel-Dieu. We chose the Baltard Café’, which overlooks the square, for a rose’ and a shared croque madame. Laurent had introduced us to the rose’ of Burgundy, explaining that it was a refreshing mid-day wine. So we tried it with lunch and used an expression which we had picked up from Aussie friends: “Spot on!”
Then we headed to the Hospices de Beaune, better known as Hotel-Dieu, a masterpiece of 15th century Flemish architecture, which has been preserved and renovated.The exterior of the whole complex looks ordinary from the town square, except for its peaks and spires, but the Hotel-Dieu courtyard is outstanding with its colorful varnished-tiled roof, a Burgundian feature which we had seen on buildings in Dijon.
Upon entering the Hotel-Dieu, or Hospices, we were happy to receive audio guides to lead us through this sizable museum.
Hotel-Dieu was a vital hospital for its time. Established in 1443, it was constructed under the supervision of a chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy and his wife. Its patients included those wounded in war, notably the Hundred Years’ War with England; others having serious diseases, or the destitute. The finest materials were used in order to ensure its longevity.
Mostly church people (nuns) served the 120 or so patients, many of whom were there to die. Many had no relatives and so gave their inheritance to the hospice. It was interesting, and a bit disconcerting, to see the rudimentary surgical instruments available at the time. There was a pharmacy where medicines were mixed. Part of the museum showed the kitchen, and an impressive Great Hall for the Poor, a long room with beds lining each wall, each cubicle draped with a brilliant red fabric. A chapel was at one end.
Artistic highlights in the Hotel-Dieu were beautiful tapestries and the masterpiece Flemish painting, the polyptych-nine panels, depicting “The Last Judgment” by Rogier Van der Weyden.
We were impressed to learn that the mission of the Hospices was carried on until the early 1970’s when a new hospital was constructed. But the vineyards donated to the Hotel-Dieu produce outstanding wines which are sold at an annual auction to benefit the Hospices and the local hospital.
Although we had become aware of wineries surrounding Beaune, on this trip our visits would be in different areas. In fact, we would enjoy one such winery visit this evening in a village closer to Dijon.
After a bit more exploration of Beaune, we exited through its ramparts and made the lovely return drive to Dijon. Upon arrival, we had some time to refresh in our hotel room, enjoying more Beaune fruit with a café. We could utilize an hour or so to venture into the Dijon town center before leaving for our winery/dinner venture at 6 PM. We even checked out the Galleries Lafayette on the main street.
Our destination was the small village of Fixin along the Wine Route, not far from Dijon. Here we would visit a local winery, Clos St. Louis. Having visited wineries in California, we almost decided to skip it and have dinner in Dijon. However, we were happy that we did not miss this special occasion. Laurent knew the owner of Clos St. Louis, and that made the experience very personal.
Phillipe, the owner, Martine, his wife and their daughter provided our evening experience. Phillipe lead us on a tour of his vineyard and discussed about every aspect of wine production…the plant, the amount of sun, soil effects, rain, location of the vines, time to harvest (usually late September), etc. He described the weather in Burgundy: cold winters, often with hard rains, hail, and frost, and warm summers, all having effect on the vineyards; consequently on the wines produced. Some years are better than others.
Phillipe described how vines can live 40-50 years; that new vines are methodically introduced; that roots grow very deep. Phillipe picked up soil to let us see the consistency, and demonstrated the method for pruning the vines and picking the grapes. Phillipe was dedicated to hand-picking the grapes which he believes affect the quality of his wines vs. the usage of machines which have become popular, even among his neighbors.
We learned about the French Government laws regarding the wine growing industry, controlling the types and amounts of vines grown. Finally, we grasped the meaning of “terroir”, a word we had seen on a restaurant name. We learned that it is not simply the land, but the symbiosis of grape, soil, climate, vineyard placement, and the human touch all rolled into one. So Burgundy is all about “terroir”. Next time we’re in Paris we’ll appreciate more the name of a little restaurant near our hotel: Vin et Terroir.
Phillipe led us through his whole wine production area: vats, barrels, bottles, etc. and offered tastings of different levels of the Pinot Noirs. Several people were asking, “Which is the best wine?” trying to determine which grade of wine, including cost, is good, better, best. We liked Phillipe’s answer: “The one you like the best!”
Clos St. Louis has been handed down from Phillipe’s grandfather, and he is very proud of carrying on the tradition. In fact, his daughter is now in college focusing on the aspects of agriculture relating to grape growing and wine production. Phillipe hopes that she will continue the family tradition at Clos St. Louis. He’s extremely proud of the many awards which his wines have received, prominently displaying them on a wall of his winery. We couldn’t resist taking a photo of Phillipe with his awards.
Our learning of the dedication and work involved in maintaining a vineyard and wine production has left us with a new respect and appreciation for the vintners and for their wines.
Following the tour and wine tastings, we proceeded to the family house where Martine had prepared a wonderful meal. Their dining room was large enough to accommodate three oval tables, each seating six. Perfect for our group.
Apparently, Martine doesn’t particularly like wine, but she delights in being an excellent cook. Her salad had slivers of roast duck on it; the main was a delectable chicken with fromage and other spices! (As we continued our trip, we would learn about the government ratings of chickens.) The main dish included a tasty rice with broccoli and was accompanied with small samples of wines of differing levels. Then followed three cheeses as a palate cleanser, and an appealing dessert of a small fresh peach, pear pieces, ice cream, and some berry topping. And a finale of sparkling wine! A grand feast! (No worries as we had a DD!)
Every few minutes during the meal, Phillipe would pop out of the kitchen and have something comical to say. Laurent and Phillipe had a great chemistry; both were humorous, interacting like old friends do! That made the occasion especially delightful!
It was a short ride from Fixin back to the La Cloche Hotel in Dijon. En route, we discussed how happy we were not to have missed out on the special evening.
Returning to our room, we followed our normal night routine. Tom summarizes the day’s events on the laptop, from notes scribbled as we travel, which Margie later uses for writing our TR. Margie gets clothes, etc. organized for the following day. We enjoy recapping experiences, and prepping for yet another adventure-filled tomorrow.
Tomorrow: CHAMONIX-a Highlight Day for us!
Nov 3rd, 2016, 01:39 PM
#20
Loving your trip report...excellent details.
We have been to Paris often & visited most of the places you described but I did make note of Brasserie Vagenende as is seems like our kind of place.
Going on from Paris to many, many places we have not been is a real treat.
We have travelled in France extensively but your choices are all new to us and I will be making many notes on what you enjoyed. Again thanks for all the details. This is what we Fodorites look for in a trip report.
We have been to Paris often & visited most of the places you described but I did make note of Brasserie Vagenende as is seems like our kind of place.
Going on from Paris to many, many places we have not been is a real treat.
We have travelled in France extensively but your choices are all new to us and I will be making many notes on what you enjoyed. Again thanks for all the details. This is what we Fodorites look for in a trip report.
