Here I sit on the 11th day of moving to Florence. Some may know my original plan was taking me to Barcelona to continue my 10 year career as a mosaic artist. well things change and so do plans. Quick re-cap: A decade of bad positioning while doing my work and a few pinched nerves later, on the advice of my nuerologist to maybe find another line of work, I scrapped all previous plans and came up with a new one. I may not be in physical shape to continue as a craftsman with my own hands at the pace I previously was, but I am an artist so decided to use my creative brain,work smart, not hard, take my knowledge of mosaic and translate it into jewelry that I will design but have others hands produce.
I had been thinking about that for a while so I switched gears, googled jewelry schools in Europe and Florence had a bunch. In order to better show what I want made to those making it I thought it necessary to learn the craft of metalsmithing myself.
So after putting the contents of my apartment in storage, with 5 70 lb. suitcases ( 320$ in overweight charges) and my cat ( 100$ for in cabin travel) I headed to Florence.
There have been quite a few hiccups this past week and a half, but as those who have read my trip reports know I can roll with the punches. A detailed report will come shortly as well as a link to a blog I am starting for family and friends.
To start the top 10 things I have learned so far:
10) With the exception of heavily touristed areas pretty much everything in August is closed til the 24th or so.
9) How to use clothes pins ( I am the least domestic person I know)
8) Punta Video 24 hr. really means you get charged every 6 hrs
7) A large gelato can set you back 12 bucks
6) When the landlord comes to fix the washing machine he brings the entire family to see the grande gatto americano at which point they all exclaim " e GRASSO!!!!"
5) Vodaphone is your lifeline
4) On that note , Skype is the best thing since canned peaches
3) Do not trust online photos of apartments
2) Fodors is your best 911 call
1) One more time EVERYONE IS ON VACATION IN AUGUST
Florence: One artist's move to Italy
Recent Activity
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- 25 travel help

What an adventure! It's great that you have been able to translate your talent into a new area. When do we see photos of the grasso gato and of the jewelry?
I have learned about online photos of apartments and what they look like when you get there.
So what's this about the video/DVD? You rent for 6 hours and have to return it or get charged again?
laartista, Long time... Sorry to hear about Barcelona but I see you are making the best of it!! Which is great and exciting. Here's wishing you all the best in Florence.
Ciao!
I,too am an artist and have read your posts over the years! I look forward to seeing you jewellry and other creations that will evolve from your head! I hope to be in Florence in 2009 visiting another artist that does restoration and furniture painting. Would love to see some of your work.
Hey laartista!
I am so excited for you and your new adventure! I think it's great you can roll with the punches.
Keep us updated, I'm looking forward to hearing more. I am interested in something, were you fluent in Italian before you decided to move to Florence?
Johanna
P.S. I know what you mean about the $12 gelato. Crazy.
I'm jealous! I could see myself moving to Rome, if it weren't for that one little obstacle of needing to support myself! I look forward to more.
La Artista,
Congrats on your courage move!!
What a glorious adventure!!
Keep us posted!
Cheers,
Bailey
http://baileyzimmerman.blogspot.com
Hello Laartista,
I've wondered where you were and happy to hear that it's Florence.
However, sorry to hear that you had to give up your mosaic work. I remember your photos and your work was beautiful, but it sounds like you're making the most of the need to change.
I'm looking forward to seeing your jewelry designs.
I hope all goes well for you; I'll be watching for your reports.
Best,
Luisah
Hey, Thanks guys.
Adrianne-Jewelry are only in sketch form right now so will let you know. Re: video rental , just realized today 1.50 E for 0-6 hr,6-12 hr + .50, 12-24 hr + 60, I think 24 hr. + 2.00. All I know is I'm blowing thru my credit of 12E in a day and a half. Will have to look for a better video place as the TV is broken and of course the repairman is ON VACATION!
Comfy-Artlvr, nice to see ya and thanks!
Gracie, no far from fluent, easy conversation at best BUT start Sept. 1 with 2 hrs a day for 5 weeks at George Pira Language school for 130E A bargain!
Susan, I know what you mean I have to live on a tighter budget now. Worked my arse off first 7 months of this year and figure if I run out of moolah can always make some small mosaics to sell until jewelry launches which should hopefully be February.
Bailey and Lusiah thanks for encouraging words, have to admit it's kind of a weird feeling. Didn't really notice it first week, my friend Robin was here, she'll be here about 10 days-2 weeks a month and back in NY 2 weeks a month where she lives w/ her boyfriend. She is going to handle sales and marketing on that end and I'll hold down the fort on design here. We'll see how it works out.Should be interesting to say the least.
bookmarking
laartista,
After my visit to Rome this spring, I can't imagine anywhere better to live than Italy. I'm looking forward to hearing what it's really like to live there. Thanks for sharing!
wow, what an exciting post to find here. thanks so much for checking in with us, and updating everyone on your adventures. pet that cat for me!
Wow, laartista is back !!
Nice to hear you are in Florence..you know how to choose cities, girl !!

And yes, vacation is pretty much the same here..my place looks almost like a ghost city ...LOL
Maybe your cat needs a bit of diet to blend in with italian cats ?
Take care and keep on telling us your adventure !!
Ciao laartista, I have wondered why I haven't seen you on Fodor's. Congratulations! Although I too saw the photos of your beautiful mosaics I envy you as I always wanted to design jewelry and to live in Italy!
Yes, having several friends in Florence I know..they are all on vacation, lol.
I am really excited for you laartista!
Hi laartista, Bookmarked this yesterday as I had to stop and make peach upside-down cake before the peaches went bad.
Congrats on your move to Italy! OMG, I am soooo jealous but glad for you. Please pass along your blog address when you get a chance. Would enjoy seeing your work and am looking forward to reading about your continued life in bella italia. In the meantime, I'll try to find your previous posts.
Ciao! TD
Hey thanks familiar faces, nice to see u guys as well.
OK, I'll start this thing after a few skype calls BUT first have to just mention that after my shiatzu massage today ( medical reasons, couldn't find a physical therapist for my pinched nerve) given by one extremely yummy italian guy, I feel completetly qualified to write a chapter for the next Jackie Collins novel. I swear I needed a cigarette after and I don't smoke! A purchased package of 6 later, I highly recommend Soul Space located at Via Egidio 12. Details to follow.
Laartista-
So nice to see you back! Like everyone else here, I look forward to hearing more about your adventures in moving to Florence. Please tell us all about how you found your apartment, what your neighborhood is like and more about those gorgeous Italian men!
PS- So happy you were able to take your kitty with you. Oh, and congrats on getting your dual citizenship!
hi laartista,
i missed the posts about your move to florence, but want to wish you well in your new venture.
i have a friend who was a teacher who has just spent 3 years getting a degree in jewelry making, and is setting herself up making it - i admire her resolve vey much, and now yours too.
do carry on sharing your trials and triumphs with us.
regards, ann
Hi laartista,

I’m a long time lurker on Fodors, but this is my first post ... I’m kinda nervous!
I’m enjoying reading about your first 2 weeks in Firenze because I can relate to your experiences – I moved here from Canada 5 years ago. I’m also an artist – well, a musician actually (as you can probably deduce from my clever and well thought out screen name), but the side of the brain is the same.
Without sounding like a freak (being a first poster and all), if you ever need any tips or advice regarding the “little things” (like never EVER going grocery shopping on Saturday morning unless you’ve lost the will to live), I’d be happy to (try to) help. I also went to Giorgio La Pira when I first arrived … good call!!!
Oh, and the best gelato is in Piazza della Cure – Gelateria Cavini – and you can almost get a kilo for 12 euro …
Good luck in your new adventure!
Laura
P.S. My BFF is camelbak on this site. She has posted a couple of trip reports of her invasions - errrr, I mean visits to Florence.
!hat can I say?!?!? I am GREEN with envy! You go girl!!! You are totally living my dream. Wishing you the absolute best.
Oh the support! Thanks e1.
Violin, I'm going to post my email address, drop me a line, not freaky at all, would be great to know someone who knows the ins and outs of this city.
So Anyhoo getting here.
Most know I had applied for dual citizenship, my mom is Hungarian.I came in with my US passport as my Hungarian papers were not due to arrive til around October. Well 6
days after I arrived and a very frustrating day I picked up my messages from my US cell number and it was the Hungarian consulate saying my passport and citizenship papers were ready for pick up. So I am officially dual which will make life easier.Now getting them since I'm here is a bit of a problem, but will work out.
Bear, the giganticat was a whole other story. Originally was to leave for BCN end of June so took him for his physical and Eurochip. It has to be a specific model compatable with the scanners here. For the chip, physical, Rabies and other shot boosters, plus to fill out the paperwork my vet charged me 780$. That's NY for ya.That didn't include a few month of his Tapozol scrip. Bear has an overactive Thyroid. Used to be 23 lb. That's another 60$ p month. Then things got pushed back and I found out he had to be reexamined within 10 days of flying and new paperwork now for Italy add another 250$. Not done yet. I had my housekeeper , who also doubled as Bears nanny for the 6 years I was in NY area take him for a week so I could visit my brother and his family before I left, so down to S Florida I went. It was in Miami that it took 2 trips to the Aphis dept. of the USDA to get the proper stamps so that the Italians would let him in.
Fast forward to Aug. 5 night before we leave, my friend Robin picks me up at Newark we swing by and get Bear from Nellie who was sadder to see him go than me and stayed at Robin's place in the Bronx that night where my stuff that I was taking had been for a week.
Aug 6 Day of travel. All I'll say is I flew on a buddy pass, got in trouble for getting into details before so will leave it at that. I bought the Sherpa doggy travel bag for Bear. He is afterall an 18 lb Maine Coone so he needed a sturdy bag. We were really late arriving at airport and Robin who was flying with went to park while I checked in. Let me say that JFK is a nightmare! Complete disarray!
I took 4 huge suitcases, all overweight. Robin checked two in as hers so I didn't have to pay for extra luggage, only overweight charges.It is very hard condensing one's belongings into 6 suitcases , 2 which will come later.I'm a girl I like shoes and accessories! She only traveled with a carry on since she was leaving in a week and coming back end of Aug. I left 2 other bags with her in the Bronx that she'll bring with on different trips. Works out well. She went through security first, she was in uniform I waited about 45 minutes and when I finally got up there to my horror they asked me to remove Bear from his carrier. Oh No!
Background on Bear, a large cat with a bigger attitude problem who's file at the vet has a large Yellow Caution sticker on it(True). The week before I brought him to be groomed at the Vet and the groomer called and said he could not finish, the cat had attacked him, he will not charge me. Well, when I picked him up he had a huge bald spot on his shoulder. Needless to say I was not happy and neither was he. He had never been out of his apt. for 6 years and in a week to a crappy groomer, 2 strange apartmentments, one with a barking dog on the other side of the door and now at an airport ready to go to another country. He's my cat, I love him, but there was no way in hell I was taking him out of that carrier. I feared for myself.
Robin was watching from beyond the screener at security and sent a TSA agent over. She had told the woman that Bear was a bit wild. The agent came over and asked if he was, I said sometimes. She said can you take him out. I said no, but you can, if you want to try. She did not, they wanded him instead, and felt arounbd the outside of the carrier. I said she could just put her hand in to feel around the inside to which she said " I'm not putting my hand in there". I'll tell you, Bear was a hit at the airport, he's so big people are expecting him to be a dog and when they realize he's a cat, it's funny.
We flew Biz class, I kept Bear in his carrier but on my seat when reclined with one door open so he could see me. I did not sleep. We arrived at Pisa around 11:30 am. Got our bags, quick thru customs and guess what? THEY NEVER CHECKED BEAR"S PAPERS! Never even asked! Never said is that an animal, he did not get his Euro pet passport ( a real thing) and I was pissed I had spent almost a grand to get this cat ready to go.
It was extremely hot, poor Bear was panting like crazy as we waited for the Bus from Pisa Airport to Florence SMN station. The bus took 1 hr 10 minutes cost 8 E, 12 rt FYI and when we got there I hit the ATM because we had to pay cash for our apartment we took for the month.
I chose an apartment on line for the month of August so when we got here we could find someplace long term. I didn't want to be locked into someplace if it wasn't all it said it would be. Good Call on my part. The apartment was in the Oltro Arno are on a beautiful street the taxi could not find called Vicollo DEl Canneto, Viccolo meaning so tiny the car can't get on it and you have to drag all your crap up a hill.
So the guy I was dealing with, who I will give props to for being attentive via email ( oh those Italian men) sent a young Canadian girl to meet us, good move on his part because if it were him, the scene would not have been pretty.
A dirty, dingy, no a/c, tv, phone or internet ( which is fine I can get back to the basics) but he said it had all those things. Oh no, this would not do. It felt like a sauna, 2 floors of must, I had let Bear out he ran under the sink and came out with a huge dustball attached to his tail. Robin was leaving in a week and I in no way was staying at that place alone. It was creepy. So I basically tried to bluff Lorenzo so he would get us in a better place and he called my bluff. Well , never one to back down, even when I am about to be homeless, I said Fine, we are not taking it. I had made no deposit, the Canadian girl left, me and Robin dragged all our/my stuff up the street and basically set up camp under a stone archway at the base of some stairs at the end of Vicola Del Canneto with no where to go.I pulled out the laptop hit "These are the Days" by the 10,000 maniacs and We just looked at each and laughed, hysterically. TBC.....
laartista,
Congratulations on the successful paperwork and the move. I'll be waiting to hear all the details as they develop, including a view of your new jewelry.
Hi,
i love your story. keep posting.
Yipper
"These are days, you'll remember"... No kidding!!!!
Wow, can't wait to hear where you finally found an apartment. Glad Bear did well on the plane. I always thought that if I ever moved to Europe, I'd have to bring my Golden, Gracie with me. Too bad they didn't check his papers after you spent all that money.
Looking forward to your next installment!
Johanna
I'm enjoying your story, and admiring your decision to continue a different line of artistry.
We have a 20-pound Maine Coone named Lynx; he bites us (somewhat gently) when he's mad, and when he's in a good mood, just to keepus in line, I guess. But they are beautiful cats, aren't they?
Thanks for the nice words you guys. Lex, Yeah I think it's a Coone thing the biting, I don't mind the little ones it's the ones when he doesn't let go that suck.
So I have parked myself at a cafe with a cappuccino and a slice for this installment.
So there we sit, each on a luggage trying to shade Bear. Poor cat hadn't eaten since we left Ny on instructions from the Vet. I open the large blue wheeled duffle bag to get him some treats. I packed food for a few weeks and a disposable litter box for when we first arrived. a gasp! The litter box cracked and exploded and all the litter was now in my shoes and on my linens, it sucked but no time for that I had to just zip it back up and ignore the situation for now, we were homeless.
Robin starts going thru the emails on her Blackberry that I had sent her. I had put out a lot of feelers before leaving NY so we had people to contact.We decided to take a hotel for 2 nights to give us time to find an apartment which would not be easy with everyone on vacation. I leave Robin and Bear at the covered stairs and head down the hill to find a Taxi. The street brings me right to a taxi stand right of Ponte Vecchio if facing Duemo. There was one taxi. I tell her in my very basic Italian at best that my friend and bags are up the hill. Can she take me there to get them and then to an inexpensive nearby hotel with air conditioning. We had been traveling about 17 hrs, it was hooter than Bangkok and I needed an airconditioned room not to mention Bear needed one too.
So in I hop and up the hill we go to where the entrance to the staors were. I tell her to stop, e get out and that taxi driver starts laughing at the sight of Robin and Bear and all that luggage. I tell her we will bring it up the stairs just to wait. I am convinced that is what led to my neck acting up again. By a iracle we get everything into the taxi and she takes us to the most delightful Pesion on the Oltro arno side of the river not far from our stairway. I will not give the name because we had an incident involving Bear and they were so nice there. Battery is running low will finish after I recharge. For ViolinCellista in Firenze my email or anyone else mosart29@aol.com.
Very funny posts.... Although you really must post a photo of your giganticat. If it is okay with the cat, that is
May be I didn't read carefully enough but did you say if this is a longer-term stay or couple/few weeks?
F A B U L O U S ! ! !
What a terrific storyteller........thought about writing a book?
http://baileyzimmerman.blogspot.com
laartista, I wondered where you have been, Wishing you the best of times and may your creativity bloom in all it's glory as we follow your adventure.
LOL, so crazy I only get 2 hrs a time if I'm not plugged in. BTW the mosquitos here are worse than Bangkok, seriously I have pizza legs and arms, Off and Repel are worth Sh-- to these Florentine mOsquitos.
Comfy about a year, so longer term
Thanks Baily and Cig nice to see you.
Ok so this pensione that the taxi driver took us to was really lovely, had a great outdoor area overlooking the Arno our room was huge with a big bedroom area and another smaller one ( did I mention Robin is allergic to Bear) So she takes the small room me and bear the large and it was huge, nice big bathroom free wifi and breakfast and especially a/c all for the bargain basement price of 100E a night. SOLD! So here's the thing we smuggled Bear in. I know , sooooo not ethical, but we were desperate and couldn't take the chance of them saying no. Plus, the Italian taxi driver woman suggested we don't say anything, so we didn't. But we did door- block that bellguy Mossimo from crossing the threshold to room # 51. And that cat who hadn't meowed once in 17 hours held fast, not a peep.
We are all in, I finally let Bear out and under the bed he goes. Next was to get a litter box, I would not open that suitcase again for 2 days til we got to where we are staying now. A few doors down was a 7-11 type mini mart. We got some wine and eats and a bag of litter and a turkey basting pan except it was more the size for a few cornish hens. Ok so you have to buy the bags for like .04 cents or something, but one bag does not hold a 10 lb. bag of litter without splitting, another bag and another, plus we had to arrange it that in no way could they tell when we walked passed reception that I had a roaster pan and litter in my bag. How weird would that look. A ham sandwhich placed very carefully on top and my wares were in full incognito.
We get back to the room , gone maybe :45 min and he is gone. Bear appears to be gone. We ripped that room apart and could not find him anywhere. I start crying where is Bear, where is he, even Robin who does not like cats but has become somewhat fond of Bear when he doesn't make her sneeze had a look of worry. For 15 minutes, we looked and looked and must have looked under that bed 58 times, no sign of him. OMG, Mossimo found us out and confiscated my cat!!!! Robin said you think? I do ,I really do where else would he be. And then, the slightest movement from the big bed area. I run over drop to my stomach and look again. There is nothing, and then I see it, the bulge in the box spring, a bulge that could only be made by a 18 lb cat who some how crawled in. He's here, he's here, as I push him to prod him to come out but NO that cat would not move.
Robin says OMG I can't freakin ( well she was more colorful, cleaning it up for Fodors) believe him. The space to which he crawled in was so small I couldn't get my full arm in, I could not figure out how he got in there. Well, we had to get him out. I mean cat is stuck. Somewhat of a moral dilemna in the way of damaging someone elses property. This is what we do.
Backtrack: When I packed I dumped one of my kitchen junk drawers in a bag and threw it in my luggage. You all have one , that drawer that has a bit of everything to the point that you can go Let's Make a Deal and Win. well good thing I did, because in that bag was scissors and purple electrical tape. We turned the bed over and like highly skilled plastic surgeons CUT ( yes, I said cut)OPEN the bottom of the box spring. A very neat and precise L in order to get Bear out. We sealed it up with that purple electrical tape. Now I feel horribly guilty about this because every person working there from the owner to the breakfast lady and the reception people were calling their friends to find us an apartment and we go and desicrate their property. In my defense we did a really good job and who looks under the box spring anyway. I mean what was I do? So that's why no names mentioned.Oh but there's more
Now I'm thinkin' movie...yes a movie...this is way too visual for just a book deal. . . .
Hmmmm now, let's think of the cast....who would you like to play YOU?
Great post. Bookmarking.
"One more time EVERYONE IS ON VACATION IN AUGUST"

You should teach the locals the new stylish hip word "staycation"
OMG, that sounds like something my cat would do! He's also a biter. Can't wait for more!
Have not seen your earlier posts, but this is a fascinating report! Am enjoying it a lot.

Do you have a web site where I can see some of your work?
I think he sounds like a gentleman and well behaved cat considering what he'd been thru recently -lol!
I'm another fan of your travel adventures and you positive attitude.
You are living one of my dreams so I am eager to see how this tale unfolds!
~Mebe
This is a really funny report
I am equally curious to read what you see etc as time goes on (I spent 48 hours in Florence but more than a decade ago... envious of your new home).
I don't know I missed your earlier posts, but I am TOTALLY loving your report!
If I could type and applaud at the same time I would do so because you are one of the brave few who actually gave it all up and WENT FOR IT!!
Can't wait to hear more and will follow your adventures on your blog.
I just heard about your post via Slow Travel. What a hoot! The very best of luck in your endeavours and adventures!
Yvonne
Dear laartista,
Good luck with your jewelry venture. I admire your courage.
I bought a mosaic brooch in Florence when I was 17 (several decades ago). I still have it (the pin on the back fell off so can't wear it). It's a stunning piece. I looked for something like it when I was there in '05, but only saw wall pieces.
I look forward to seeing your pieces.
Susan
You're ending a post with "oh but there's more." Seriously?? That is so no fair.
Johanna
Should read: That is so not fair!
Johanna
and i thought the bangkok tales were wild....
As usual, loving your tales. I have a 13 year old Maine Coon so I can relate. This is a cat who chased a skunk into my mother's clothes closet a few years ago. You can imagine what happened next. It took months to get the smell out of the house.
Oh, I'm smiling so much reading this, my face is practically cracking! I've been sooo waiting for you to continue the great adventure you had begun.
I can't tell you the number of times I looked for the "laartista" posts, so disappointed that there were no new ones for the longest time. But at last!
I so admire your spirit - especially the complete change of plans, and the drive to make it work. I can see the movie, too - with Bear in a starring role!
Can't wait for the continued saga. Thank you for the chance for us to live vicariously in your great adventure!
Paule
Hi laartista,

I'm also loving your posts and admiring your courage and wish you the very best with your venture. I can't wait to hear more and see pictures of your art.
I have been to Florence a couple of times and love the place. You absolutely must go to Festival for gelato.... YUM YUM! If you google it you'll come up with write-ups and lots of pictures.
Anyway, good luck
Ciao!
welcome to Firenze.
I moved here in 1984, with a lot less than you brought on vacation.. mmust have been a site!
I am now living in Certaldo, but come into town often for work.
I do market tours of San Lorenzo.
Let me know if you want to meet for coffee or something.
OMG- can't believe all the kind words. NIce to see so many familiar names. Yes, Divina would love to meet for coffee, in fact anyone in Florence or coming to Florence I want to meet for cafe, seriously!
Before I continue, I just got back from a morning of apartment hunting but that's not what I want to address yet. I think I mentioned the mosquito problem and how they are worse than Thailand. Honestly for almost 2 weeks now, night and day those buggers have been snacking on me. I have spent countless Euros on Off and cortisone creme for the itch and I have Repel and nothing works. Well, seems I did not have the right weapons in my arsenal for this war with the mighty Florentine mosquitos. Now according to one very wise pharmacist here, I have been going about it all wrong, the good news is he set me on the right track ,30 E later.
What I needed was 1)this bottle of a special liquid mix, safe enough even for the children he says. This liquid that you rub on your body is supposed to have some super duper mosquito repeling mojo. I'll take one. THEN I told him how my friend does not get bit at all. Seems she has more yeast than I do so in order to boost up my yeast content ( and hopefully not in the wrong place, otherwise I might need another trip to the Farmacia , OOPS sorry channeled George Carlin for a minute there)2) I need to take 2 B12 tablets everyday, Ok got some of those. Makes sense, Robin is like vitamin queen. And 3) most importantly VAPE plug ins. Like a room deodorizer except the smell can only be detected by the mosquitos. A smell to them the equivalent of the 42nd street subway station on a 98 degree day in the midst of summer. So now ,tonight,I am ready to do battle and win the war that has left me with the unsightly scars of the dreaded mosquito bite. Rant over.
OK so the next day we have a nice breakfast and literally scour the city to find an apartment.The heat was stifling AND this is when we found out that pretty much everything is closed in August especislly the immobiliares. Panic was starting to set in. A few weeks prior Robin had a layover in Pisa. It was then that she met with a few people I had scoped out re: apartments. One service was Universal and Sarah who had been very helpful had shown her an apartment in the Mercato Centrale. Literally in the Market square on Panicali. It was a one bedroom with sofa bed in the living room. Robin said it wasn't huge but brand new and really cute. Since she was just staying 8 days in August she would take the couch. We had been quoted 1050E for the month but asked if they would pro rate it since now it was the 8th and we would move in on the 9th. They came back with a price of 770E to the end of Aug. and most importantly the owner would allow the cat. So many say NO ANIMALI that this was important. With pretty much no prospects and the following Friday being Assumption Day which means whoever wasn't already on vacation was now leaving for vacation, we jumped on it. OK, so NOW we had a place with wifi, tv, no a/c but that was ok with us because Robin said when she saw the apartment it was very hot out but the place stayed cool. OK great. We head back to the pensione to make our 77E deposit via PAYPAL. THEN sARAH CALLS. oopS SHIFT STUCK.
" I am sorry but there has been a mistake there is no wifi or internet". Well, my laptop is my lifeline back to the states and research and this is just awful. " Oh, and the TV antenna is broken and the repairman is on vacation so he can not fix it til Sept. UGH. BUT, the owner will provide you with a DVD player. HMMMM. We really had no choice so we suck it up and plan our move for the next morning.
We told the people at our reception at the pensione about the wifi and they suggested we run right over to a particular Vodaphone office before they too go on vacation Saturday. It was 6:30 pm and they closed at 8 so we jump in a taxi and go there.
Now my Italian sucks and the English at this particular store was worse so this took a while. Seems we had 2 options pay 199E (300 us)upfront for a usb broadband key and the 35 E a month for 100 hrs which is only like 3 hrs a day, which translates to 2 skype calls from my mom. OR sign a 2 year contract with no money down and 30E a month for 300 hr airtime. What to do?Scuzi, una momento, " Robin, conference please". And we step to the side ( even though we were the only ones there)We debate pros and cons and even though we knew we probably weren't going to be in Italy for 2 years, although you never know, we decide to go with the contract. Being on budgets and all seemed like a better deal. If we break it we only have to pay the 199E for the key on the back end so there I sign, pretending like I know exactly what I'm signing. One new vodaphone key later,wait 48 hrs and we are online.
Back to the pensione, and we had been out all day, I felt guilty about Bear. In the roomand AGAIN nowhere to be found. Hadn't eaten or pooped. This time I knew where to find him. So under the bed I look and NO he is not in the boxspring we cut open, he is in the one on the other side, the big bed being made of two twins pushed together. ' Is he there", Robin asks. Yeah, he's there but in the other one! Well, I was not cutting open another box spring. As we both lie there on our stomachs looking at the bulge in the boxspring we decide what if we upend the bed and he comes sliding out? That'll work. So we do just that and bear comes tumbling out. BAD KITTY! Meowwwwwwwwww, he was so unhappy. Would have been better if we had thought of that the night before, prior to grabbing the scissors. Next pix of Bear and move out and in day
LMAO_ Faina- Staycation, love that!
OK pix of Bear here
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Bear02
Bear looks much more dignified than I expected....he's not F A T ....just big boned!!
Just to let you know...we're all thinking of you and helping you with good vibes alone the way!!
Thumbs up!!
http://baileyzimmerman.blogspot.com
Witch hazel takes away the itch-old fashioned remedy. Hope you can find it.
Pauvre gatto!
Absolutely loving your report!!!!
Sally
How funny, Bear looks just like a black and white cat that has been hanging around my sisters apartment. We've been calling him Rudy.
Johanna
Thanks SRS, Tdudette, will get some witch hazel tomorrow! And Bailey, Yes, he is not FAT just big boned and very dignified, except maybe when in the litter box.

Sat. am move out of the Pension and into Apt. for Aug. day. Maybe too much info here but Bear hadn't gone to the litter since Wed. night in NY. I was getting a bit worried UNTIL the smell that was the alarm clock for both Robin and I. Problem was poor big guy couldn't fit in the cornish hen roaster you couldtell he tried. So like many NY'ers before me with a plastic bag on my hand LOL, sorry so funny, I cleaned up after my pet. Then became the game we call "Smuggle the cat and all evidence of him out of the hotel room".
First, dump all catfood and clean bowls. Bear like his human mom is a bit of a messy marvin when eating so a little sweep up with some postcards. Then the litter roaster, into the garbage bag. But where to put it? Couldn't very well leave it for the chamber maids. I go scouting in the hallway. We had given strict instructions the day before not to have our room cleaned. The maids were cleaning a room down the hall around the corner. A few rooms down from there was parked the " re-stock the room" cart and lying on the floor a quarter filled large black hefty bag. PERFECTO! I run back to the room to tell Robin the plan. As I distract the maids with some questions in a mix of English and Italian she will run to the hefty bag and put our smaller bag of litter in it. Success! Now to get Bear out.
So all the luggage is mine except for a very large carryon and 2 smaller bags. Wouldn't be right to have Robin drag them downstairs while I smuggle him out. In hindsight I think I should have because my pinched nerve has been a horror ever since. We get him back in his carrier which is no small feat. He hadn't had the best experiences in there recently. Then a scarf to cover the sides with the computer bag on same arm in foreground. I tell her to go wait outside for the taxi. Do not stop at reception, wave and book out of there. 4 trips down the elevator that could only fit 1 bag at a time and then down a flight of stairs later,while constantly insisting I need no help from the front desk, we are in the taxi and outta there!
3 Panicali Please.
Mr. Andrea, the owner of the apartment met us there and was very kind to help us up the 2 flights of stairs. One flight is actually a private stairway shared only by another apartment not rented. There is an open air roof above it which is great because turns out the apartment is unbearably hot. Keeping the front door open as well as the windows gives a great cross breeze. The apartment is very cute, all new. The bedroom is huge and beautiful.Lot's of storage space. No box springs, all good there. In both rooms are old arched windows. We do have a washing machine and really cute coffee cups. I would totally recommend this apartment EXCEPT I am exhausted because it is impossible to get sleep. You see, we are located in a covered archway right above the market sellers. My view is of the FagAzzi Polo and Izod shirt guy. Next to him is the levi's for 20E. Good thing I guess if I don't feel like doing laundry I could yell out and ask him to throw up a pair. They're vintage
Every night around 8 pm they all pack up their carts. Clanking and banging. then at around 10:03 pm the street cleaning begins. First, the orange panted guy with a leaf blower and an attitude problem. When he is done ,THE TRUCK, the truck that is so loud that I want to hide under the bed. They finish only to have a second round. Around 5 am sometimes 6 the sellers are back ,clanking and crashing and dragging those carts on the cobblestone to set up for another day. Look I'm used to city noise but this is craziness and no amount of cold tea bags can help my weary eyes. I've been napping.
Once in, we let Bear out and back under the bed he goes. It's all been so traumatic for him. He's doing good now laying on his back with tummy exposed only to be uprooted again in 10 days. We unpack, or I unpack. I had brought things like a french press for coffee and some small art items from my old apartment. From doing the art circuit for so long I have an extensive collection of American Craft, mostly on trade, all into storage along with my art purchases from travel. That really bummed me out. So brought a few with. Brought all toiletries because that stuffs expensive over here. I had unpacked all the bags except the blue litter duffle. I dragged it into the hallway and began one by one emptying my shoes as if I had been to the beach, of litter. Any clothes in there shook out and right into the washing machine. This is when we discovered the washing machine didn't work, no water AND it held my clothes hostage for 2 hours. Finally unpacked we head out to stock the fridge, get some fans and a sim card.
I just looked out the window to see the name of the street lol, it's Via Chaira I think, getting dark out. Well that street leads to I think Nazionale. If you go left it gets you to the station. If you go right it gets you to the Vodaphone shop #2, supermercato AND .99 Euro store. We go to all. At the vOdaphone store we get fans.2 of them 19.99 E each, 3 speed oscillating. I will return there to have Patrizzio help me with my sim card, our internet key and to buy a hair dryer.
Next .99 store for a colander,plastic bins for the bathroom a place mat for bear and a bunch of other crap we don't need.
Supermercato. I couldn't help but think this was not the main place. Turns out I was right. The place we wanted was Conrad, bigger, better, cheaper. I hear there are even better ones, like Standa or Coop.Have yet to see one. I also hear there is a FREE bus to Ikea. We did a pretty large shopping, stocked up the fridge,bought some cheap wine, we are trying not to eat out a lot. Since Robin left I've been using the microwave alot or grabbing a pizza or a gelato.
That night Robin cooked, we made skype calls, checked emails and such.
Next photos of apt., details on my new favorite thing SKYPE and a day to Piazzale Michaelangelo.
I am really enjoying your report! I have a 17 lb Maine Coon so it makes it extra fun to read about Bear's adventures.
Count me among your new fan club. This is a wonderful report. Bear looks quiet intelligent. In one of the photos he's absolutely smiling. Look forward to your continuing travails and best wishes for a wonderful, fruitful adventure.
handsome cat!
how funny, we were almost neighbors!
i just moved from Via Taddea( my windows were on the Piazza del Mercato though). I left after 20 years.. to the countryside!
let me know when you get settled.
Hey tahnks u guys.

Divina -so weird, I was looking on the web the other day for a cooking class, not alot to do before sept.1 and I had bookmarked your website BUT so funny just realised it was the same you posting here. OK I'm going to look more carefully at your site now
"poor big guy couldn't fit in the cornish hen roaster' "you could tell he tried".....
See right there.....the name of your book!!
I'm still laughing...so hard I choked!
What is the name of Divina's site??
Love the update. Despite the mosquitos, heat and noise, it still sounds like a really cool adventure.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Here's divina's website:
http://www.divinacucina.com/
Love the pictures! How many word per minute does Bear type?
Glad to see you back on Fodors!
Your play by play report is so interesting and fun, I love your attitude and Bear's adventures!
Tell us more !
Susan- Bear might as well be typing considering my typing skills. I'm gonna switch format to non play by play and just tidbits and funny stories or things I find funny here.
I had brought my 3 favs with Suzhou, china, Bangkok, Thailand and Paris. I proceed to do the most awful thing possible. I pour Dottore a coffee in the gigantic Starbucks mug with milk and sweet & Low ,LMAO, he looked at me like I had 3 heads. What's this he asks, Your cafe. He goes into a rant about cafe, took a sip and literally spit it out. What's worse was when he asked if we had biscotti for the cafe and I handed him a plastic wrapped pre packaged chocolate croissant from the Supermercato. He just shook his head.
We went to Piazzale Michaelangelo on Sunday. The nice thing about knowing you'll be here a while is not having to rush around to see everything in a few days. I had been to Florence 4 times prior for 3 days max a time. Never made it up to there before. It's really worth it. We cross Ponte Vecchio and to the left there are signs that lead you to the gazillion stairs up to Piazzale Michaelangelo. we did it on a day of 95% and humididty through the roof. Wouldn't suggest that, BUT in better weather definitely. The views are spectacular. From there we walk to Belvedere, IMO that part of the walk up a hill is worse but again worth it because the walk back down thru that neighborhood is really beautiful. I actually wouldn't mind living over there. If I had more motivation I'd climb those stairs every morning in the hopes of looking like Jennifer Garner, Yeah not happenin.
So, in my top 10 I mentioned the landlord and the washing machine. They couldn't figure it out. He had his friends wife up here reading the directions while they tried t find the problem. Solution Send Dottore the Plumber over. At least he said that's what we should call him.
Dottore arrived one early afternoon last week. Zero English which brings me to a conversation me and Robin had in Valencia where we argue over who knew more Spanish and I then ask if they speak Italian and she insists I don't know Italian either. Guess what I know enough, enough that Robin has conceded that I've been doing really good with it. And enough to converse with Dottore.
He is a loud guy, very animated, very funny. When he arrives Robin is in the shower so I'm out in the lIving Room with him while he is under the sink. He finds the problem. They never hooked the water up! Well, he found this freakin hysterical and proceeds to lie back on the couch while calling Andrea the landlord to basically tell him what morons the guys who put the washing machine are. He is laughing so hard he has to wipe the tears frm his eyes numerous times, and I am laughing at oops with him. He says he'll be back at 6 to fix it.
6 o clock rolls around and there he is at the door. He stayed for two hours, fixed the washer in 45 minutes. I offered him coffee that I made in my French Press. So I collect Starbucks city mugs, I know cheesy, but I love them and you all know how I feel about Starbucks. Only sorry I can't have one with a David on it
While he had been under the sink I had been setting up our Skype video calling with my Dad. Skype is really the BEST! So I'm on videa call with my dad who happens to be wearing a t-shirt that says wife for sale ( I swear I can't make this stuff up) and he asks who's there, I say the plumber and call Dottore over to say hi. AND HE COMES OVER! Next you know Caio Papa! and he starts taking to my dad in Italian and my dad was choking he was laughing so hard. I told him they were in Vegas so he starts making sounds and motions like the slot machines, it was very comical. The best part though was when he made a call to Andrea to say the washer was fixed and relayed the whole video phone story to him. I wasn't sure whether to tip him or not so I gave him my Starbucks Paris mug, he loved that, and walked out with his wrench in one hand and the Starbucks mug in the other.
Speaking of tipping anyone know whether you tip for services like pedicure or a massage?
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/FlorenceAug08
Thanks for posting this! I can just imagine Dottore!
ttt
laartista, what a treat to discover another one of your memorable trip reports this morning! I was also pleased to read that you will provide a link to your blog so we can keep up with your ongoing adventures in Florence.
My cousin in New Brunswick adopted a bedraggled kitten that had stowed away under the hood of her car to keep warm. He grew into a magnificent specimen - not fat, just fluffy. Her son did a report on cats for school and discovered that he was a Maine Coon.
I hope you will keep notes on whatever you don't post (you never know...) Loving the report and the photos are great. Wish you'd gotten one of Dottore. When does school start for you?
Thanks Moolyn and Mari. Mclaurie I just right down a key word to rember a story, my memory is pretty good, especially on what I find funny.

BTW just realised should have been
DOCTORRE, the doctor
Oh to be in Firenze!!!
Laartista, I'm so enjoying your adventures in Firenze makes me miss being there, but I'm counting the 5 weeks and 5 days until I can experience it again in person.
Continue to keep us posted!
jdc
Thanks for posting the link to your pictures. I'm heading to Florence in a few weeks and hope to get a nice clear day to take pics from the Piazzale Michelangelo like yours.
A link to your blog? That would be terrific!!
Tipping pedicure/massage?...I always tip for services.
Whew...at least youv'e gotten through your first 'Doctors' visit!
Glad you have a functioning washing machine.
Great photos I can feel the heat coming off the stones!!
ps...Divina, Great site!
http://baileyzimmerman.blogspot.com
Laartista, what an adventure you're having! Thanks so much for sharing your stories and your pictures.
I've been missing Florence for a while. I hope to find time to go there next year, when I'm scheduled for Rome...but your pictures will have to do for a while.
Hope you dont' mind my asking, but what does your apartment look like?
Very nice shots (and funny report). Definitely an enviable adventure. Great view!
Laartista
Too funny. I was away for a few days and look at what I missed! Hope you and Bear settle in nicely and enjoy all that great food and architecture! Keep writing please!
What a wonderful adventure. Thanks for sharing it with us and I'm looking forward to your next posts.
I just found this thread... Wonderful stories so far.
Laartista, inside the box spring liner is the favorite hiding place of all the cats I've ever owned! I finally removed the liners from all the beds in our house. I'll be interested to hear how Bear settles in. Oh, and you too! LOL!
She says wth a sneer " Interesting how quickly Bear has become the star of this report"
They say never work with animals , they always steal the show!
So here's some background on Bear or as I affectionatly call him Bearcat. My Brother in law calls him Kung Fu Kitty and Bear has been banned from my sisters house since they Kitty sat him when he was 1. My Bro-in -law swears Bear came at him on hind legs upright, claws out swatting away at his calfs. I thought it was Bear urban legend until 2 years later when Bear trapped me and my friend Marcel in a bathroom for an hour, and we had to use a blow dryer to get out.
He has mellowed in his mid age but is still a biter, occasionally clamping down on my arm and shaking his head like a dog playing tug-o -war. Can be very cuddly and snuggly BUT like a typical male when he's had enough goes to the other side of the bed and sleeps. PLUS, when Robin was here, I caught him slutting around for the pets. There they were, Robin with one hand over her nose and petting him with the other and her bottle of Purell Hand sanitizer only inches away.
He looks all sweet and can be, but like most cats there is no unconditional love there, I have to earn it, and I know he is feeling comfortable because once again he is ruling the roost. Last night even saw him sleeping belly up 4 paws in the air. I couldn't have been happier.
Mc, I'll post a few pix of apt. we are in now and the apts I've been looking at for Set 1. Having a hard time deciding what to do with that.
Baily- I always tip too, but was wondering whether to tip for those services like I usually would or a lower percentage. I know the tipping debates on this forum are legendary but they are usually about dining.
laartista, I'm enjoying your report so much. I hope you continue posting during your time in Florence.
"Last night even saw him sleeping belly up 4 paws in the air. I couldn't have been happier."
I must be living vicariously through you because when I read this my first thought was "oh good, Bear's feeling more comfortable!"
My cat Buddy is nicknamed Ninja Cat. He loves to take a running start and jump over my Golden with his front paws spread out.
Johanna
Thanks Sam, Gracie, we do love our pets huh?

I'm going to jump around a bit here.
First about SKYPE. I really do think it's the best, I'm kind of a techno idiot so anything gadgety or computerwise usually scares the crap out me BUT Skype is sooooo easy. I signed up for the world unlimited plan. I did it before I left the states. I think it was 9.95 E p month for unlimited calls to landlines and mobiles within your calling area. Skype to Skype is always free and calls to other #'s outside your area have pretty low rates. Because almost all my calls were going to be to friends and family back home I also got a Skype phone number. My number is based in NY so whenever anyone from the states calls me here either from their cell or landline and whever I call them it's the same as if we call back and forth from NY even though I'm in Italy. The skype number was 30 US per year. Considering everyone I know has unlimited calling plans all our calls are free. Here's the glitch, my skype window has to be open and me online to receive calls. Included is also voicemail and video calling. My sister and her husband videocall every night to watch me make dinner, I feel like Max Headroom. Oh, so back to having to be online. I get 10 hr. p day of airtime with Vodaphone. Seems like alot of hours but they go fast. Thing is every time you log on it is counted as 15 min. For some reason between 8-10 pm Florence time i get knocked off alot. You can use three hours a day just logging on. Anyway, my mom just loves skype, she used to call like 8 times a day now it's only maybe 6
I've had a real interesting day so far but it is a scorcher today and was up early so I'll post about it later, need a siesta. Plus want to download some photos first.
Re: the tipping thing....Maybe one of the other posters that live in Italy could help you with this one.
I tend to overtip then I'm stuck tipping that amount for the entire relationship. Plus, Im sure that the % would be less than in the States?
Skype.."open and on-line"....reminds me of the old days...sitting by the phone waiting for THE call.
We have a cat that was feral....she adopted us....now she is the ruler. We named her JAC....Just A Cat.
What a terrific report....do you have a blog? If not Please. please, please start one!!
Hello laartista, regarding tipping. My various women friends that live in the Region of Veneto do not tip for a manicure or pedicure because the various owners of the establishments takes care of their manicures and/or pedicures and hair. I don't know if that is the custom throughout Italy to not tip the owner if you receive the service(s) from the owner however.
I am loving your thread! Have a lovely weekend in beautiful Florence.
"we do love our pets" heck, i've fallen in love with YOUR cat thru these reports. what a guy, plane ride to europe, smuggled in and out of apartments... he's the MAN!
as far as tipping, can you simply ask someone at the salon? throw yourself on their mercy? something simple like "am i supposed to tip?" in Italian. or maybe just slip a 5 euro note directly to your technician? not too much, not too little, so you'd be OK regardless of local tradition. especially if it's a place you'll be frequenting?
Your sister calls every day to watch you make dinner??? That's a lot of pressure.
How's the mosquito stuff working?
How's the apt. hunt going?
bookmarking
What a treat! Please do let us know when you have your blog set up. And thanks for living your dream and allowing us to share it.
I was in NYC for a few days and just found your post. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading about the adventures of Bear and you. He is a very handsome guy so what's a little bite now and then I have a nibbler too.
Please keep it coming!
ttt
I'm really enjoying your posts! Bear is adorable and your pictures are helping me to get excited about my trip to Florence in March!
Going to bed and imagine you are now awake in beautiful Florence laartista. Have a wonderful Sunday. And enjoy your Boots, what a sweet character he is. He is the MAN indeed, lol. Thanks for sharing your adventures, I always so enjoy reading your threads.
I was A fodor's slacker yesterday.Actually downloaded Mai Tais report to read offline. he's always very funny.
with Lapo my new shiatsu masseuse, the spa was close by so I figure I'd swing by on the way there. So I say 1/2 hour? 10:15? Perfecto. Grab my stuff and out the door.
LC, Bfrac, sandyy-thanks for the nice comments
Suze- Yep, Bear IS the man! And he knows it. What I decided to do with the tipping is fall somewhere in between my usual US 20% and the way the Europeons tip ( no offense meant by that)
Baily- JAC that is too funny! Blog template is set up but have to transfer stuff so I'll post the link once that's done.
McLaurie- Really no pressure on my end w/ making dinner. It's not like I'm running some C grade version of the Rachel Ray show out of my tiny apartment. More like throwing frozen gnocchi for the supermercato into boiling water and slapping some butter on it. AND, that's when I'm not feeling lazy, which would then be putting a sandwhich I picked up earlier in the day in the mIcrowave.AS far as the Zanzara( my new Italian word) go the Vape plug in seems to helping a bit, BUT still getting bit.
Love- You are always so sweet, thanks for reading
So Friday was a wacky day. I was awakened extra early by the market guys setting up below my window, like at 8. Then at 9:45 my cell rings. I had bought a Vodaphone Sim card, which I seem to constantly recharge. The conversation goes like this:
Me: Hello
Lady: Andrea?
Me: Si, Sono Andrea
Lady: two minutes straight of rapido Italian, that I caught maybe every 5th word of.
I have found that if you speak even the slightest amount of Italian to them they start rattling. I usually get what they are saying in person because I'm good at reading people and gestures and all but on the telefono, whole other ball game. It's like they are Nic Robertson reporting from Afghanastan on a 5 second delay. She goes to get her friend who speaks some English. NOw my comprehension delay is kicking in. OH, It's the landlady from the apartment on Via Dei Pepi where I left my notebook on the kitchen counter. Now the translator gets on the phone to tell me what I just figured out. Can I come, and when?
Well. I had an 11:00 second date, I mean appointment
About a 10 minute walk later I'm sitting at the curb outside Via Dei Pepi 70. And I sit ,and I sit, and NOW it's 10:40. I call back the lady. She is there! Where? I'm here! She was waiting in the apartment. The week before when she was on vacation her brother Gianni came to show the apartment and he met us outside , so I thought that's where I wait. I guess that's just for first time look-sees. So Upsatirs I go. She was a petite slightly older than I well dressed woman with another woman , her translator who was an older lady, in a moo moo with 3 teeth. I tried not to look and count but I couldn't help it. Her English was very good, although with a lisp.
I take my notebook and they ask what was wrong with the apartment. I didn't want to tell her the reason was the bathroom only had a drain in the floor for a shower , so like every other apartment I blame it on my friend who is in NY (Robin). My friend didn't like it. Plus this had a bedroom and a loft and we wanted 2 bedrooms. So the lady says( and this is all in Italian w/ the friend translating( that she has a friend, Marco,who owns the Farmacia down the block and he may have a 2 bedroom. I tell her I have an appointment at 11:00 on Via Sant Egidio. Not a problem, it's on the way and literally takes my hand to go with her. OK
We walk to the farmacia, she is still talking Italian to me , knowing full well by now I'm not understanding alot. I think she was telling me about her vacation. We get to the Farmacia and she introduces me to Marco(speaks English)and he says he has no 2 bedrooms BUT, he has a friend who does. This is a very popular way of finding an apartment in Italy. Sort of an Apartment Scavenger Hunt.
Alright, I say my ciaos, gotta run, Lapo is awaiting. So I briefly touched upon the whole shiatsu thing at the spa but really it's fantastico! Plus in two sessions has really helped my shoulder blade ( where my nerve pain from neck is sitting). When I first get ther it was right at 11, maybe 5 after. I had wanted to take a turkish steam before to loosen my muscles up a bit. Shiatsu is a bit like a Thai massage. Sort of an accupressure with strtching, not the lie on your stomach, 00h ahh feels so good massage. Hurts sometimes, but that's good.
The woman who owns the spa looks like a prettier version of Julia Louis Dryfuss ( who's pretty to begin with), dresses great, is from Turkey, married an Italian. She is also a medical doctor so she's been great in giving me advice for my problem. I walk in carrying a red nylon shopper that had my purse and loose fitting clothes for the massage. She had given me stuff to wear on my first visit but, I'm 5'2" and the pants were made for someone 5"8" and I looked like one of the peanuts dragging the pants bottoms across the floor. I hadn't packed any work out clothes except one pair yoga pants, had to do laundry so I just brought a pair of pink checkered pj pants with and a tank.Anyhoo she sees me walk in with the bag on my bad arm and immediatly takes it from me and says ' andrea, how are we supposed to help you if you don't help yourself!" You cannot carry heavy bags, especially not on that arm" I know I know, I'm sorry and she takes the bag and leads me to the locker room.? Nope, did not. OK and gives me a thin cotton turkish towel wrap thing to use. She says try to stay in for 10 minutes at least 5.
THe steam is hotter than any sauna I have ever been in, it's a wet heat, the marble room literally dripping as I am in sweat. I mean soaking wet. I can feel my face dripping off There is a cool water hand shower for when you get too hot. I think I lasted about 7 minutes I'll time myself next time. The great thing about is , you actually CAN feel your muscles loosening up and toxins leaving your body. I wish my apartment had one, I'd do it every day.
Done with the steam and I go to shower off and change for my massage which started up with a very interesting Q & A session. Gotta check emails brb.
Interesting what you needed to get for your cat to got to Italy.
We brought TWO cats to France, admitedly 14 years ago, and they didn't need cat passports, chips etc. But we did get all the right papers, checks less than 10 days before, etc. No sedation, virtually nothing to eat or drink the day we left.
Cats went into their cages hours before we left, so they wouldnt get lost in the confusion. Off to the airport, where I'm sure we were overweight, but everyone was so amazed to find two cats, no one paid any attention to our other luggage.
Our cats travelled from Toronto to Paris in the hold, emerged on a luggage cart beside the elevator, looking a little stunned, but none the worse for wear. We pulled out our papers, had a look around, no one cared, so we put them on OUR luggage cart and walked out. No one ever asked about the papers. We had a taxi ride to the train station, 4 hours to wait, 5 hours on the train, taxi to our house (luckily we had already bought a house, and so didn't have to start looking for somewhere that accepted cats.)We figure they were in their cages at least 24 hours, without food and water for longer than that(on our vet's advice) No side effects, no problems - she said they just go into a kind of suspended animation, pretending they are anywhere else but on this horrific voyage, and basically shout down. It seemed to work.
Everyone had told us they should stay inside for at least two weeks so that they got used to the new house. However, having taken them away on vacation a few times, we knew they really only cared about where dinner was served, and that immediately became home. So they got dinner, had a sleep, next day decided they really lived in France now, and continued to do so happily for many years. Never did learn to speak French though.
I also sympathise with you and Vodaphone/Vodacom. We have gone to South Africa the last few winters. First time we found a server who was happy to have us on a monthly 'pay as you go' rate. Second time we couldn't find him, finally decided his small business had been bought out by biggie Vodacom. After a week of asking everyone we could find, we finally gave in and bought the Vodacom connector (WIreless LAN it says on the box) plus buying time, rather than a contract. Strangest system. You buy time at the VOdacom store, or supermarket, and get a receipt with a code. Then you take the SIM card out of your phone, replace it witht the SIM card in your LAN, download time, using the code on the receipt. Convert the time you just bought to data bundles. Take the SIM card out of the phone, replace it in the LAN and there you have enough time for a few weeks. Not cheap, but it works.
We decided that since we'd made a significant investment in hardware and learning curve, we might as well go back next year - also helps that we love Cape Town!
"Moo moo 3 teeth...with a lisp"...another roarer!!
Thanks for making my Sunday!
Just A Cat...we keep reminding ourselves...she is not a deity.
Now we are all waiting to hear about your 'date'. Sorry to put the pressure on....we'll be patient!!
It can't possibly take this long to check emails. Soooo, if dinner is not a big deal, is this just the time of day you and sis like to visit? Do you talk while preparing the dins? Sorry to hear the biting continues. If your friend from NYC is coming back, maybe you should have her bring back some Avon Skin So Soft or Off Deep Woods
http://www.webmd.com/a-to-z-guides/features/avoid-mosquito-bites
Yes, just likes to talk while <i prepare dinner.
You would not believe the craziest story EVER today, but first my massage. Lapo was waiting for me after I changed and the shiatzu area is downstairs in a cavern room. Futon on the floor, candle lit, weird Yogi music playing. I lie down on my back ready for my massage. Then Lapo sits down next to me and the questioning goes like this:
Lapo: I have some things you can answer me?
Me: OK
L: What is your tastes, what do you prefer?
** note in parenthases (sp) what I'd like to say, other what I actually said.
M: (you) about what?
L: sweet, sour your taste
M: oh, sweet
L: what swet?
M: chocolate, gelato etc.....
L:what is in your head, what do you think about?
M: (you) What's in my head? depends
L: when you are not awake , are there things in your head?
M: (my brain) OH, yeah , you mean when I dream? Yes i dream
L: about what?
M: (you) Lots of things
See a trend yet?
He goes on to ask me if my head is too crowded, if my dreams are always the same or different, get this one, if after I eat ( and I wish I had the visual for his hand movement on this one) does the food go out? Basically if I poop ok ( totally ruined the mood on that one. If I keep things in or let them go? Am I scary? to which I replied sometimes although he was trying to get at whether I was scared of things. I said somethings, like airplanes, bugs and the dark, told him I still sleep with a night light. Sad but true. Finally I say what's with the psychotherapy? He says he needs to know where the pain is coming from.
Finally my massage begins. Weird thing about shiatsu, it's all about the Chi and meridians so as he starts with his palm on my stomach I couldn't help thinking how I wish I hadn't had that croissant for breakfast. This massage is so good and is helping my shoulder so much that although I am supposed to be on a pretty strict budget with no income while I'm here, for now, that I shell out 450E for a package of six. You can take the girl out of NYC but not NYC out of the girl. I justified it by it being the same as I paid for Physical Therapy out of pocket each week back in the states, and he doesn't make me do exercises and is really nice to look at.
So it's about one when I leave and I had a 3:15 to look at an apartment on Via San Zanobi by an agency run by Elaina. A very nice woman 90 if a day who uses a magnifying glass to read and insists that I know Italian. She had called me the day before to come to her agency to tell me about the appointment, Why that couldn't be done on the phone, No Lo So.
So the apartment was nice, no great shakes, but with the agencies there is one months fee, plus 2 months security and the rent. That's 4 months upfront which equals alot of Euros and even more dollars. we had the possibility of a deal on the down low going on with someone else so we will try to avoid the agencies if possible.
Next my pedicure and dinner with Violincellista.
LOL
"a moo moo with 3 teeth"
Please keep your reports coming, artista-betcha you'll find that many of us are living in Italy vicariously through them.
No fair, artista, you just gave a glimpse on that last post--mainly of your lust for Lapo (having been to Florence I totally believe he is lustworthy
Now get back here, pronto!!
thanks T, Mel- Oh he so is! I am definitely crushing on my masseuse, so cliche' I know, but I don't care.
I had a six o clock pedicure appointment I had made on Wed, at Mix Evolution located on Via Del Giglio. A small hair salon that has Bed Head products and all your beauty services. Two weeks in flip flops and the dirty cobblestone streets of Firenze had done a number on my feet.
** SIDENOTE** I know there are a ton of threads on what to wear and blah, blah, blah. I always ignore them and wear what I would at home and fit in fine. Let me tell you something, it has become a flip flop world! I noticed it in NYC a few months back that noone wears shoes in warm weather, FLIP FLOPS! every color every brand, from Haviannas to Fit Flops everyone, everywhere is in the thong and that includes Florence and NO, IT'S NOT JUST THE TOURISTS. Italians too, in masses. In two weeks I've been stopped by about 2 dozen different Britsh and American people with their little language books asking me for directions thinking I'm a local all the while I wear flip flops. And those white sneakers Americans are so fearful of wearing because they will stand out, everyones in those too.
OK so I had gone to the beauty supply store to get the supplies to give myself a pedicure( which I had never done before) and it was like 30E later, 8E for nail polish! A pedicure was 20E, you do the math. Barbara was the girl who did my feet. I lay on a table and put my feet in a tub of warm water. No massage chairs with the foot spa there. AS I turn my head I notice the wax pot. Oh, you do waxing. I found the bargains in Italy, eyebrow wax 7E and a haircut which I have an appointment for Tuesday, 18E. I haven't paid under 100 dollars for a haircut in a decade!
As Barbara begins on my feet my phone rings, a woman rattling in Italian, I keep saying No Capito, she keeps talking. Quiet as a mouse Barbara then asks if I want her to take the call, Um Yeah, I do. She takes the message hands me a sticky note with a phone number on it and the name Marco. It was the landlady from Via Dei Pepi calling to tell me to phone Marco the pharmacist about an apartment. See how this works? Nutty right? I try calling, no answer.
So my pedicure was not great but better than I could do, I'll let you know how the haircut goes. I had exchanged a few emails with violincellista ( Laura) and we had made plans to meet up around 8-9 that night. I got a text, her gig ran a bit late, we finally caught up on a phone call and decided to grab some eats and drinks, her choice of place. We set to meet at the Duomo by the stairs. I told Laura I was not aware there were stairs, but there are. I just never noticed them with all the people. I described myself and said I was wearing a purple tube top. I meant a strapless top and was hoping she would not think I was in a neon purple tube top being a fashion victim left over from 76.
I walk to the Duomo and spotted her right away and really from first hi, thought we would be fast friends.
OMG just got an email we got an apartment, this is the crazy story I was talking about. Have to go skype Robin but will finish about dinner after. I really need to get that blog up!
... he doesn't make me do exercises and is really nice to look at
Sounds a lot better than PT to me! LOL
You have a crush on your masseur Masseuse is a woman.
Musician and artist sounds like a good friendship!
LOL, thanks for pointing that out Mclaurie. Yes, have a crush on my MASSEUR, not switching teams at this time
So I meet up with Laura and we go to this place Osteria De Pazzi. She had to call first because it's a locals place and hard to get a table. When we show up it was like when Norm walks into Cheers, They all meet her with big hellos. She and her hubby are regulars there. This is a good thing as we or I should say she gets star treatment. She orders an antipasto assortment and some wine. We had a chat about the wine because for some reason red wine aggravates my allergies and I get congested from it. BUT, being in Italy where Chianti comes from I throw caution to the wind and we order red. It was deliciouso, however 1/2 way through dinner I start sounding like Lily Tomlin's Edith Ann.
I told him about how we were considering the apartment downstairs which is when he gave me the back story. OK, so the upper floor apartment is in way better shape with an AMAZING view. Kitchen is even smaller than downstairs but appliances are new.
)
We talked so much through dinner that the waiters would come by and remark on how we weren't eating. First came a thinly sliced larda di something, I call it pig fat that you put on a warm bread and it melts in. Sounds gross, suprisingly not bad although I think one piece was enough for me, my dad however would love it! Then tomato halves with a bread crumb stuffing, a big platter of cured meats and salamis, pecorino cheese slabs with a red pepper jelly on top, and finally crostini breads with 3 different toppings. One was peppers, one eggplant and a dried tomato and pecorino cheese mix. It was all very good. We laughed a lot through dinner and Laura was a treasure trove of info. Her Italian is awesome and everytime she spoke it I couldn't help think I want to sound like that!
She ordered dessert after the chef brought and showed us what they had. I can't remember the names but 1 was some liquor that you dunk biscotti into. Was very strong, takes an acquired taste I think. The other a layered pudding type with chocolate and as Laura says about 6000 calories of heaven. It WAS sinful. That Laura pulled a fast one on me. Said she would go in a settle up and then we would settle, didn't let me give her a dime. Really so nice, so next one's definitely on me.
WE closed down the place and decided to walk and talk for a while. I really want to say her hospitality was above and beyond. She walked me back to where I live which can be a pretty scary place at 1 am. The apartment I'm in now is on the edge of Mercato Centrale on Panicali street. After about 11 when the restaurants in the square close down it really becomes a bit unsavory. At the far end of the arched walk way sits a bunch of guys on motorcycles.They guard the vendor carts all night. Kind of like the Guardian Angels without the red berets. When we get to my address Laura remarks that I really should not walk around there at night when it's dark. It's not safe. Great! Now I felt bad that she had to walk to the taxi stand to get home by herself. She said she'd be ok and we made plans to meet Monday.
OK so here is the CRAZIEST story EVER re: our new apartment. Kind of hard to follow so I'll try my best to break it down.
1) Remember the first place on Via Canneto that left us homeless because we hated it so much and the guy LORENZO who rented it to me online.
2) That same day a few weeks ago when I called my parents to tell them what happened both MY DAD and my sister get on the net for an apartment search.
3) MY DAD starts corresponding with this guy NIC. He says he had nothing at the moment but would let MY DAD know when he did.
4)One week after I arrive when I go to register at Georgio Pira language school I meet a guy named FRANCESO. I ask Francesco if he knows of a 2 bedroom apartment, ( just like I ask everyone I meet). He says yes, HIS CO-WORKER owns a place and he would call me that afternoon. He does and me and Robin go to see it. The place is a dump but has good bones and with a trip to Ikea can be spruced up. Thing was ,bedrooms were super tiny and very dark. But it had an awesome 50 meter square deck, but no view. 1100 E p/ month it's on Via Degli ALFANI, a block and a half round the corner from the Academia.
5) Meanwhile Robin leaves and I had been looking everyday at a bunch of places. Saw one place through MIlligan & Milligan Immobiliare. Owned by an American woman Carol who has been here like 30 years. They show me an apartment that is off the hook with a state of the art kitchen, Sat TV a/c laundry room w/ washer & Drier, just awesome and the owner a Canadian woman Sylvia a doll. I really loved that place at 1250E a month it was no contest w/ the place on ALFANI, But they took a 12% finders fee on the entire rental period which would be a couple extra thousand dollars. I really did not want to pay that but would have paid half. Robin gave a resounding, NO FREAKIN WAY! So I tinkered with the thought of paying it myself since I was the one who would be here the whole time.I would highly recommend Milligan and Milligan for rentals if you don't mind the fee. They are very nice to deal with. So now it's between the crappy place with awesome deck and the off the hook apartment behind Paizza Signoria.
6) I call Francesco to see if I can go back to ALFANI 59 to see the place and photograph it. Plus I offer 900E a month and he says I can see the place on Thurs. and he will ask his CO-WORKER about the 900.I go back on that Thurs. to see apt. and FRANCESO tells me his CO-WORKER will take 1000E p/month plus put a tv in but we are responsible for cable or satallite.
7)Now Friday late night after I get back from dinner I call Robin. She had been on a layover in Moscow and the weekend was rolling around and a decision needed to be made by Monday am on which apartment. We had a very heated discussion bordering on major argument. When she got back to NY she called and said she would need to be flying more to cover bills. I took that as she'd be here less. My point was why should I have to live in a crappy 2 bedroom, when I can get a really nice 1 bedroom and when she IS here she can sleep on the pull out sofa. She insisted she would be here at least 2 weeks every month and all of September so wanted a two bedroom. OK, so let's go with the nicer one. It was getting ugly. Here's the thing, because the crappy apt. was through the owner to move in it was 1000E for Sept. rent and a 500E security deposit. 1500E in total. Where as to move into the nice apt. it was 1400E finders fee, 1250 E security, and 1250E Sept rent. 3900E. HUGE DIFFERENCE! We decide that unless I find something better over the weekend w/out a finders fee we would let FRANCESCO know Monday morn we would take the apt on ALFANI.
8) Saturday I get an email from NIC, do I still need an apartment. I email asking what you got.Sunday am he emails me and says a 2 bedroom, living and dining area, refurbished, balcony view of Duomo at 1100E p/month. He attaches pix, but from our first experience and #3 on my top 10 list Never trust the pix. So I ask if I can see it this day (Sunday) because there is another apartment that we are going to take on Monday. While I am waiting for his response I open the zip file of pix he sent. Hmmm, bedrooms look ok, kind of small plus one , the smaller has bunkbeds,ooooh the ding area looks cute, OMG that view AND THEN THE PICTURE THAT TURNS THIS INTO ONE CRAZY TALE, THE BATHROOM!
The crappy apartment with the great deck on ALFANI had really distinct tiling in the bathroom. White tiles with a few big black flowers designs spattered. This photo I was looking at from NIC ( my dad's contact from 2 weeks prior) had the SAME EXACT TILING. I almost fell off my chair. It had to be in the same building. We had actually looked at 2 apartments that FRANCESCOS CO-WORKER owned at ALFANI. The one with the graet deck and one above that was in worse shape, no deck, we immediatly ruled it out. There was a top floor apartment in the building and I was sure that was now NIC"S apartment. I email him asking what number on ALFANI is the apt. And sure enough he emails me back number 59.
Really, what are the chances, in all the streets of Florence, that my dad's contact NIC and the guy I meet at the language school FRANCESCO are showing apartments on the same street let alone same exact building! OK ,so now I'm thinking this is Kizmet, I'm supposed to live in that building. Which ever apartment we go with THAT IS the address!
I email him back asking if he owns all the apts. in that building (thinking he must be FRANCESCOS CO-WORKER). He just emails back saying he'd meet me at 5 pm. If you think that's weird, gets even wilder.
9) I go to ALFANI and wait across the street on a stoop for NIC to meet me. At about 10 after 5 I notice a real good looking guy on a motorcycle ( not a vespa, a real bike). I could tell he was cute even with the helmet on. He parks and I see him walk toward 59, OMG cute guy on the bike is NIC. I see him waiting. I stand up and he sees me, I say loudly NIC? as I walk over he asks Andrea? I say yes. And as I get to him to shake his hand hello, he says no not NIC, it's me LORENZO from Via Canneto ( the first apt. that caused us to go to the Pensione) I literally slipped and said Shit aloud.
CAN YOU BELIEVE IT? I mean really CRAZY! I couldn't wrap my brain around it. So here's the connection. Seems LORENZO'S MOTHER owns the top floor apt.and a bunch of other property around town. LORENZO and NIC both work for her.
The MOTHER'S BROTHER, LORENZO'S UNCLE owns the other two crappily maintained apartments and is FRANCESCO's CO-WORKER! Also, Lorenzo told me that his MOTHER and THE UNCLE/CO-WORKER are in a fight. They don't speak, a feud so to say.
I ask Lorenzo if he knew it was the same Andrea as Via Canneto and he says not until this afternoon when he saw my email address. I asked if he said, Oh that Bitch! I was kind of firm about my displeasure when we first arrived to Florence. He laughed and said he did not call me names
He is firm on the price of 1100E p/ month. Will not budge. 100E more than downstairs. I tell him I have to speak with my roommate and he pipes in ROBIN, I know, I know all about you. Oh you do, do you? He mentions his girlfriend took the photos of the apt. so they weren't great. ( girlfriend?- buzzkill
We walk out together and when we get downstairs he literaly corners me in a doorway and starts asking what I did not like about Via Canneto. Geez, get over it buddy, I mean really! He said he had two gay guys from Seattle stay there and they loved it. Really? 2 gay guys loving that place? I don't think so.
He was not letting me go until I told him what I didn;t like. OK ,you want me to be honest? He said he did. So I threw diplomacy out the window and I told him, it was claustraphobic, and musty and dusty and smelly and I just didn't like it. But what would you change, why? People say it's much nicer than the pictures. Well pal, I'm not one of them. It really seemed to irk him I did not like the space. Cute Lorenzo was becoming insecure about his apartment guy so I threw him a bone. Well, maybe I was just really tired from the travel and it's probably not as bad as I remember it being. NOW, Lorenzo is all smiles, nice to finally meet you Andrea, shake of a hand, I'll let him know by tomorrow, which is now today.
CRAZY STORY HUH? Phew!
So which apartment. The one that needs more work with the amazing deck owned by the UNCLE. Or the one in better shape with the awesome view owned by the MOTHER?
We made a decision, I'll post the photos and let you all weigh in before I reveal the winner. Also pix on this link of where I am now on Mercato Centrale.
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Apts
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Apt2?authkey=z26mfzxd5qI
The upstairs is nicer, brighter. The big bedroom is -ahem- nicer, you know.... just in case...
You only need to become friends with the people that rent the one with the awesome deck.
Wow..tough decision. I think the upstairs is the winner...it has a real view....more room. (I'm kinda confused does the upstairs have 2 bedrooms?) BUT the downstairs has all that outdoor space and less stairs!!
Can you believe the real estate tangle?...reminds me of renting an apartment in Cinque Terre.
Which does Bear prefer??
I'd be awake all night trying to make that decision. Love the large deck, but in the end I think I'd take the upstairs apt because it seems brighter and lighter, except for the kitchen, which is kind of depressing, but hey you can brighten it up. The dining area looks nice. It looks like the balcony is large enough for chairs and I'd love sitting there with the Duomo view. Would there be a sunset view? Sunrise?
But even without the view, I would go to the one with better light, I feel claustrophobic and kind of depressed in dark places.
The story of finding these apartments is a chapter in the book of your adventures (which I hope you'll publish) -- better than fiction.
Report on the next massage, we'll be waiting to hear more about Lapo.
Hi again, laartista,
that deck looks sooo familiar that at first I thought that it was the same via dei alfani apartment we stayed in about 2 years ago. but ours was no 84 according to my e-mail records. the furniture and bathrooms weren't very different either! - obviously the owners have similar taste.
I'm agog to find out what you decided.
regards, ann
Wow, I can't believe you kept all that straight!
Any new updates....another session with Lapo your massage therapist?
Bookmarking!
Hi Andrea
Inquiring minds want to know what's going on with you and your boyfriend, uh, sorry, masseur!
Johanna
We took the apartment w/ the view, shiatsu session on Friday. But will be back to report on how the apartment thing went a last few days.
Thanks for the thumbs up!!
Congrats on the apartment....was it Bears favorite?
Andrea, that seems like a wise choice and I'm looking forward to reading more about it - especially since we have the offer of an apartment with a view in a palazzo in the Oltrarno next June!
bookmarking
Loving this report!! please continue!!!
In know I have been slacking on the updates. So here's the thing about those 2 apartments. The top floor was 100 E more a month BUT would have to sink less money into it to make it nice. PLUS the thing that really sold me was the view of the Duomo. A large deck is nice but summer is coming to an end and even if it were warm enough til November, you really wouldn't use it much in winter and then all you would have is a view of a wall. Where as the Duimo view is fantastico no matter the season. AND the little balcony is definitely big enough for 2 chairs and a little table. Plus I was a bit worried with Bear escaping from downstairs while upstairs I could put some netting on the balcony grates and I would think he would know it's a long way down.
So I did try to get them to match the price downstairs but no go. We made a plan to meet Monday to leave a deposit. I never heard from then and was a bit worried. I emailed and Nic said sorry couldn't make it maybe tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow? What does THAT mean? They are so laid back here, no rush for anything. Was finally able to catch them and make a deposit yesterday. Met Ana at Piazza Beccaria. I had gotten a text from Lorenzo to go there and phone her when I got to the Piazza. Problem was, I was out of outgoing minutes. Luckily there was a phone booth. We met in front of the cinema I handed her 100E. kiss kiss on both cheeks.Will move in around noon om Monday. Robin gets back here on Sunday.
So Tuesday I had a haircut appointment. I was quoted 18 E ended up costing 37E BECAUSE to have your hair blow dryed is EXTRA! The young guy who cut my hair wore a nametag Leroy, I highly doubted that was his name ( it's just so not Italian) and when his friends dropped by and were making fun of his name tag I knew I was right. It was like when I waitressed at Durgin Park in Boston in the nineties and wore a name badge that said flo on my white waitress dress with the black apron and Roast Prime rib of Beef Badge. This guy was like zoolander with the face , and everytime he cut a section he would fling my hair and strike a pose. I seriously had to brace myself not to lose it a crack up. My appointment was at noon and I was to meet Laura at 2 in front of the Micky D's by the SMN train station. It was only 1:15 I was starvin and broke my cardinal rule. Do not eat American fast food abroad ANYWHERE! In 10 years of travel w/ the exception of Starbucks ( which doesn't count )I have never done it. An occasional diet coke with ice, yes, but no burgers and no fries.
I gotta say I was burnt out on the pizza, pasta and gelato so I got myself a big and tasty value meal at about 7E. Bad move! DOES NOT TASTE THE SAME! Never again!
Laura was waiting outside in her car. Forget TGIF, my new one is TGFL Thank god for Laura. Not because she may read this, but because I really mean it. A total doll, who is gracious and who shleped me around all day.
First we went to San Gimigiano. Beautiful, chock full o tourists, an amazing little Duomo and the claim to fame ( besides the towers) the gelato shop that has won the gelato taste off 3 years running. You have got to know we indulged in some of that.
Although San Gimigiano was lovely the highlight of my day was ESSELUNGA! The ginormous grocery store, a mix of Shop-Rite and Whole Food rolled into one. I thought I had died and gone to supermercato heaven, where goods are a plenty and prices are better. That is where Laura does her shopping. She lives nearby to it and it's about 5 min. outside the Centro Storico. She told me I could catch the #20 bus at Piazza San Marco and it will take me to ESSELUNGA! Very, Very exciting.
If that wasn't exciting enough, she then took me to the IPERCOOP about 1/2 hour away, somewhere. See TGFL!
The IPERCOOP is like a strip mall in the states with Italian version of Best Buy, target and an even nicer supermercato than ESSELUNGA ( which is kind of hard to beat).Laura told me the #16 bus fro SMN will take me THERE. I think it was called Media City or something, anyhoo that's where I got my American style coffee maker! Whoo Hoo! Sorry, can't deal with the mocha maker and the French Press was getting on my nerves so a mr. coffee but the generic Italian brand it is.
We went to the Coop next door to get filters and I was showing Laura the coffee I had been buying. She said,"" You drink Decaf?" No I drink regular. well you've been buying Decaf. OMG, no wonder I'm so tired all the time! It was very funny, maybe had to be there.By the time we got back to the city it was around 8 pm. I had like 5 missed calls from my mom because she was checking on my leg which had been swelling up and down. Laura and I decided to grab some dinner but first drop off my bags, and so I could feed bear and make a quick Skype call to my mom, which I did by video and she was able to meet Laura. Again, anyone living far from loved ones should get skype!
Sorry to say Bear was not friendly, ran and hid under the bed, he's been quite unsociable these days. So we go to some really cool restaurant which I can not remember the name of, on the road up to Fiesole. A super cute restaurant built on tiers for outdoor dining. It was awesoem, I had a pizza, Laura had a calzone, a few beers, and mosquito bites later.
It was a great day! Learned a lot. Probably because I ask questions every 6 seconds like a 4 year old would. Plus laura is really good on getting the correct pronunciation of words.
So yesterday I pretty much just sketched jewelry all day. The present ladlord Mr. Andrea stopped by w/ the guy from the Italian Con-Ed. They just came right in and took care of their business at the diing table. No warning they were coming by, just dropped in were here about an hour. gthe Con-Ed guy had a nylon briefcase. Out of it he pulled a few pens the paperwork a stapler and some paper clips. He was meticulous with every thing he did and when he was done, perfectly replaced each item in it's proper pocket. I said " Ufficio in la bolsa!" they thought that was pretty funny.
Next up , after reading the Degas thread in the lounge the hypochondriac in me takes MY swollen leg to the doctor!
Ciao laartista e Meow Bear

Scrittura bella
I'm STILL laughing about the coffee thing ... sorry!
Have you been bouncing off the walls these last two days drinking real coffee?
The restaurant we went to for pizza and mosquitos is called Le Lance.
Laura
P.S. You're making me blush!
What a nice thing....that two people come together via a website and add so much to each other's life.
What a mitzvah!!
Isn't it nice that Laura published a post and that she has helped you to get established?
Small world!
Yes, good reason to take the upstairs....a better fit for our friend Bear!
All over the world, people are reading about you! And, just hanging around, waiting for the next episode. You realise you can never stop telling us what's happening?
Please, what does TGFL mean? Laura sounds so nice. And, how is your leg?
Ciao.
Come back and tell us how the leg is after seeing the doctor!
Yvonne: TGFL: Thank God For Laura!
Love, love your posts and thanks for letting me live a great life through you!
BUT, I am worried about Bear on that balcony. Tony and George live with us, and Tony loves to jump up on high things, 2nd floor banisters and suchlike. George is overweight, so doesn't jump much, just up to his chair to sleep off his b'fast/lunch/dinner/snack, but Tony is slim and trim and gets around. Don't know what you could do, but definitely make sure that netting is up.
Have a great time!
Laartista, congratulations on your courage to live your dreams. I'm certain you will be very successful in your endeavors. You already have a bunch of Fodorites under your spell... An excellent customer base.
By the way, I think Bear is a very bad cat. He's cute and charming but still a bad cat. I know, I have one exactly like Bear. Her name is Angel.
Thanks you guys! Yes, Bear is somewhat troublesome BUT as far as the balcony goes he's a big boy and I don't think he can jump his big old self up that high. Also, about living here, there is never enough water in the toilet for him to drink out of it which was always a gross habit of his. He didn't even jump up on the bowl, just stood on his hind legs with paws on the seat. Now I have him drinking out of a bowl like a proper cat although he still sits next to the toilet and meows sometimes.

Ok, so here's the deal with the doctor. I was doing some lounge thread reading, don't usually post there because to be honest it's not always the nicest place. Anyhoo (oh, that has got to annoy the grammer polizia on this board) I came across the thread about Degas and his swwollen leg. I've had one of those, lower left swollen calf for years. Most probably from sitting cross legged on the floor when I worked and often with my left leg bent leaning on it. So I get these episodes of it being bad and then goes away sometimes doesn't happen for months at a time. It's usually after I fly or around my cycle but I've had this one for a good 2 1/2 weeks now. ( Major run on sentence there!) So, that thread freaked me out, AND being somewhat of a hypochondriac at times I walked myself over to Dr. Stephen Kerr's office located at Piazza Mercato Nuovo 1. This was the English doctor that someone recommended because I forgot my nuerontin. I swear all my problems come from bad positioning. Well, Dr, Kerr is still on vacation and the receptionist speaks ZERO and I mean ZERO English. I got by and there was another doc there that I saw.
Awesome doctor, really nice. Dottore Soldani. He spoke some English and with my little Italian I was able to get my concern across. I told him I had a doppler and a d-dimer blood test done about 3 years ago. He felt both my legs and then concentrated on my left. He wheeled in a doppler machine, scanned the lower leg. He said the blood is not going good. Bad circulation. I said, no clot? no danger? No, No no danger, just feels bad. He said to get rid of the flip flops and drew a picture of a shoe with a low heel, these are better. Told me to drink more water, elevate my leg when resting and to get physical therapy and massage on that leg. Well I had the massage part covered with Lapo.
Turns out he is the doc for the football team Fiorentina. Florence's soccer team! He specializes in sports medicine and physical therapies. The PT that works with him is guess what? On vacation til Sept. 8th ,but ,he made an appointment for me to se him at 8 am on the 8th to assess what type of PT I would need and how often. I told him about my shoulder and that I had been going for shiatsu because all the PT's were on vacation in August. He said is good! But still to see the PT. Total cost for office visit, doppler and my first physical therapy session on the 8th ,50E. That's right 50E, 75 bucks. In the States that would have set me back a few hundred dollars if out of pocket or the hassle of getting it approved by my crappy BCBS HMO. Because I'm self employed and based in Hudson county,I pay 6,000 p year for insurance. If I were to get a PPO it would be closer to 12,000. Ridiculous. My mother says to keep my rants on health care costs to myself especially around her side of the family who happen to all be doctors.
I also asked Dr. Soldani about my mosquito bites. The other night when I was bored I counted them. 47, 47 mosquito bites, one big one now on my left cheek, it's awful. I figured out I had spent 90E in 3 weeks on sprays, plug ins, after bite creams,vitamins, all to no avail. They still get me! I told him this and he started laughing. Went and got a bottle of rubbing alchohol. He said 1 Euro, rub it on you, no mosquitos. So, when I left I went right to the Farmacia, got the rubbing alchohol and guess what? No new bites yesterday or last night. Can you believe it, what a waste, for 1 Euro I could have been bite free all this time.
On my way for my massage will report back later.
I am sooooo living vicariously with you! Thank you for taking the time to write and share.
LOl so I just came across a post about this report on slotrav, which is BTW a great source for additional info to this board.
Anyhoo, seems to be a question to how big Bear really is. He used to weigh in at 23 lb but now due to an overactive thyroid for which he takes a tapozol 2x a day he has dropped down to 18 lb. He DOES have a lot of fur, he DOES NOT shrink down when wet unlike poor George on Seinfeld.
Lapo was an absolute sadist today,don't like him anymore, crush over! But someone is calling will continue!
Andrea-
I hadn't seen that post about you on slow trav, but I checked it out and posted a direct link to this thread for you so everyone could follow along.
Please, do continue...
Can you sneak a picture of Lapo?
Sandi...LOL...I can see her now.......lying back and sneaking the camera out from under the sheet and BLAM...the flash goes off!!!
Very funny visual.......but if would be fun to get a look at Lapo!!
Thumbs up on the great doctoring that you are receiving! You are so right about the out-of-pocket PT costs here at home.
I bet you are relieved?
I really like SlowTravel too....I always get great and accurate info!
It's a dark, dark room ladies with only a futon and some candles on the floor. I do think a flash may look suspicious. Doesn't mean I won't try
Lapo the lovely masseur tortured me today! I was 1/2 hour late ( just trying to fit in here) couldn't remember what time myappointment was. I had no time for a turkish steam beforehand and then I thought may not be the best for the leg anyway so skipped it altogether today.
Right before my massage I asked id he had any questions first, because if you remember I was interrogated last week. He said not yet and why did I not like the questions. No, don't mind just want to know they are coming. So he said maybe after. He then told me he had brought special things for me today. Really? Special things? Like what? Well, he brought a small brown bottle of a mystery liquid. What is that? I will tell you after. Is it a magic make me better potion? ( I actually asked that, such a geek) He said yes, it is magic. ( OK you have to keep in mind his English is very rough, heavy Italian accent on everything, I know I'm IN Italy)
Thought that might have happened,cut me off, luckily i copied first! TAKE 2

( in case mom reads). No we were not geting stoned. He lit that thing up, I am back on my back and when it has a good hot ember going he comes at me with it. OK, HOLD UP BIG GUY! What are you doing with that. He said, " I use the heat on parts of your body." Do you burn me? Because I really don't want to be burned! No, no , no burn, just very, very close. I guess it's an alternative to electric stimuli on certain muscles. OK fine, do it, but don't hurt me. HE HURT ME! I have little red spots on the sides of my knees and at the base of my thumbs where they meet my hand, not palm side. I kept saying ouch, he kept saying, IS GOOD FOR YOU ANDREA.
It's a dark, dark room ladies with only a futon and some candles on the floor. I do think a flash may look suspicious. Doesn't mean I won't try
Lapo the lovely masseur tortured me today! I was 1/2 hour late ( just trying to fit in here) couldn't remember what time my appointment was. I had no time for a turkish steam beforehand and then I thought may not be the best for the leg anyway so skipped it altogether today.
Right before my massage I asked if he had any questions first, because if you remember I was interrogated last week. He said not yet and why did I not like the questions. No, don't mind just want to know they are coming. So he said maybe after. He then told me he had brought special things for me today. Really? Special things? Like what? Well, he brought a small brown bottle of a mystery liquid. What is that? I will tell you after. Is it a magic make me better potion? ( I actually asked that, such a geek) He said yes, it is magic. ( OK you have to keep in mind his English is very rough, heavy Italian accent on everything, I know I'm IN Italy)
Alright so I lay down on my back and the massage goes as usual EXCEPT he cut out the part when he pressure point my sides and massages my shoulder. Arms, hands legs, feet and then skips right to the neck. I'm thinkin, what up? So then something new, turn over on my stomach. This was the 3rd massage and first time I lay on my stomach. He starts doing some spine alignment stuff and hips. Then like in a Thai massage kneels on the back of my thighs and presses on my shoulders. Feels kind of good when there is only about 90 lbs. on your back, say , like an old Thai lady, kind of hurts when you got a 6"2 Italian guy kneeling on you.
OK Then I felt like Miranda in that episode of Sex in the cIty when the guy goes back there. Well, he start pushing on my butt cheeks with his thumbs. DID NOT FEEL GOOD! It hurt, ALOT! At one pointI slapped his hand and I said, Lapo I hate you, I don't like you anymore. He said, don't hate me, I must do this. You are lucky I usually use this and points to his ( minds out of the gutters) ELBOW! But for you I use this and holds up his thumb. All I could think is I really have to start my Budokon Discs again. I could feel my ass was cushy.
So if having him poke around on my butt wasn't bad enough he then says this is the special thing I brought for you. Another special thing besides the potion? Yes, more special. And he proceeds to pull out what can only be described as looking like a gigantic doobie right out of a cHeech and Chong movie. I thought, is he going to get me stoned. I mean I saw it once in college but never inhaled
So after the sadist finishes his burn session and I feel like Gweneth Paltrow after cupping he shows me a few exercises, I especially liked the one when he bent over in front of me, I know , so bad. So he gives me the magic bottle and says 4 times a day 4 drops here, and points to under his tongue. Well what is it? What does it do? Smelled like brandy. I ask, you trying to get me drunk? He actually gets my jokes. No next week you tell me what it does. OK?
So I go upstairs get changed and go to make my appointment for next week and Lapo is standing there telling the girl to charge me 35 Euro for the F----En Magic potion. What a freakin racket he's got going. they hypnotize you, make you think they are giving you a potion gift and then BAM! 35 E. I said, LAPO! You didn't tell me how much it was! I already had it in my purse. Fine, and I hand over my mc. Then they didn't have change for his tip so I pretipped for next week. Before I left I turned around and said THIS BETTER WORK LAPO! So today I was burned and I was BURNED> Paid the equivelant of 50 bucks for like 3 ounces of brandy. OH Italia
Geeze...I think I'd tell him....forget the potions....just massage.
Working on your gluts is a good thing....hope he didn't do too much too soon. It should be in steps...re: the depth and intensity!!
Let's see if you feel beaten up tomorrow....ouch!!
Hope you're having a fun Friday night??
I'm loving this on-going report!
The magic potion in the little brown bottle sounds like a Bach flower remedy - there are 38 of these 'essences' derived from various plants, each one treating a particular emotional state. They work by 'stimulating the body’s own capacity to heal itself, by balancing negative feelings, helping you to take control'.
A little bit like homeopathy. The brandy base is to prevent deterioration of the essences.
Actually they really can be quite effective, especially if you don't know what you are taking, so take your drops and see what happens to your emotional side/attitude!
You can google Bach Flower Remedies and get loads of websites to look at, here is one of the best...
http://www.bach-flowers.co.uk/bach_remedies.asp
The wikipedia entry is also quite informative.
Don't worry, he asked his questions, thought about your answers before deciding what to put in your magic bottle of brandy. It would be interesting for you to know what he did put in when you have taken it, so you can look back and think, hey I WAS feeling like that, or it's a load of sh*t!!!
(I bet Walnut will be in there - to help with major life changes)
Incidentally, I have the whole range, bought when I and two of my children were going through a traumatic time. I believe these remedies did help us at that time, and we still often use Rescue Remedy in times of stress, and Larch for lack of confidence before exams etc.
Bailey-great jsut what I need a pain in the ass tomorrow.
Julia T- Soooooo interesting. You sound like you know a lot about these things. Could this potion interfere with my regular meds? I take a pretty serious nerve med. I'm kind of nervous to start the drops tomorrow. Gosh I hope I don't start tripping out! On second thought may not be a bad thing. Just kidding. BUt am serious on any side effects. I'm heading over to google.
I had a friend in Edinburgh give me the Bach Rescue Remedy when I was under stress. Never used it.
But my daughter's dog freaks when it rains, so her vet told her to buy it for her dog and give him a few drops in his food or on his tongue (easier said than done) when storms approached. It worked great and, since it's natural, there was nothing that could harm the dog, like sedatives.
BTW, I think Lado has quite a little racket going!!
But, more, please!
"OK Then I felt like Miranda in that episode of Sex in the cIty when the guy goes back there."
Okay, Andrea, you owe me another computer monitor, because I just spit my wine all over mine.
I think I could use a few sessions with Lapo...
Let us know how the potion works.
Johanna
Andrea-
It does sound like a homeopathic remedy to me. I've taken Bach flowers Rescue remedy (before flying!), but his is probably just a different brand. 35 euro is crazy expensive though.
I've also had the "big doobie" thing done to me by an accurpuncturist. I can't remember what it's called though. I am not a fan of cupping (it hurts).
laartista, I wish that I'd read your report earlier. We could have met for cafe in Florence. Love your report! Please keep it coming--you're living my dream.

Sorry Gracie! & Thanks Mel.
.
.
Kristina, you know what they say " No pain, no gain" I am starting to think all these Homeopaths are sadists. I went for Acupuncture this spring and I remember when she put the needle in for my sinuses, OMG, thought I was going to pass out!
Thanks Cyber, is too bad we didn't get to meet for a cappucino. I would have loved meeting you. Your report is FANTASTICO BTW.
So I did my drops this morn at 8 am. Why so early on a Saturday? Because in addition to the street cleaners at 11 pm and 2 am, and the vendors setting up at 6 am, for the past week they have been making a secong bedroom or something in the apartment right above me so my alarm clock this morning was a JACKHAMMER! I swear, for a country that really doesn't seem to work much, especially in August if at all, these guys are working on a Saturday!
So because nothing exciting is gonna happen today except cleaning and laundry, I'll write about some random things here in Italy. Robin returns tomorrow for 4 weeks before she'll go back to NY again. Spoke to her last night because she is bringing some of my fall stuff I left at her place. Each times she comes back she is bringing more of my things, which IS really nice of her. She also went to Target for Bear's food and a bunch of other stuff that is expensive here.
I'm living off savings I'm a on a pretty tight budget, well for me. I've been here over 3 weeks and have done no shopping. Appliances do not count. It has been very hard. I have shown great self control. Those who have read my reports before know I am a huge shopper and in a city with so many fabulous things to buy, well it's been torture. So, I needed to rework my budget to allow for some indulgences.
I had budgeted for school, rent,utilities ( which is extra) groceries, entertainment/dining out, day trips and one overnight trip per month. Speaking of utilities that was also a selling point on apartment upstairs. Although warmer now is not such a good thing. With the flood of light and being on the top floor it will be warmer in the winter when it's important and heating costs will be less. Also the skype, vodaphone and my bills back home like health insurance, my stuff in storage, credit card payments. Trying not to use the credit card, though that black motorcycle jacket I fell in love with may be considered an emergency. So I tweaked my numbers to allow myself 100E p/ month for shopping. In addition to that I don't use any coins. So at the end of each day I empty my wallet of coins into a cup. It adds up because they have those 1 and 2 Euro coins here. In 2 weeks I have amassed 42 E in coins. Goes toward my shopping
So here's the deal with school. Monday I start 5 weeks of language for 2 hours each morning 9-11 M-TH at Giorgio Pira. I had looked at a bunch of jewelry schools and decided on Art Fuji located on Guelfa. http://www.artfuji.it/
SACI and Syracuse( my alma mata, go orange) both send their students there for jewelry classes so I figured must be good. Run by a very nice older American fiber artist ( Her stuff is AMAZING!) they also offer fantastic weaving and batik there. I didn't really need to take a full blown ciriculum because a) as a self taught artist of any medium I've worked in I just need the basics and can pretty much teach myself the rest b) I'm not going to be producing the jewelry. Just designing it. Some parts will be made here in Italy most probably Arezzo and the rest in Bali ( who has fair trade & wages) where I will go first 2 weeks of December. Still I want to know the medium I am designing for and best way is hands on.
So, I signed up for a 84 hr 5 week Basic jewelry making class which starts Sept. 8. M-W 1-6pm, TH 1-7, Friday open work studio. 1000 E for that class. Then, I signed up for an engraving class , 5 weeks M-th 7-9 pm. 400E. In October I will start my cast molding class which will fill the slot that engraving is in for September. also 400E. I am teetering with the thought of adding and enamel class, but not sure. So September will be very busy. I can't wait. Honestly, never thought I'd say this. I miss working my 14 hour days. I've been drawing, rendering the jewelry and handbags but I miss getting my hands dirty.
Where I have been living the past almost month is an interesting and colorful area. Not the safest late night but colorful still. In a 1 block radius is about 63 Internet cafes. Small no nonsense, un air conditioned cafes. I keep a running credit at one of the 3 I can see out my window if I run out of daily air time with Vodaphone. Also ,at the side of Mercato Centrale that I'm on are about 2 dozen hair weave shops. Which brings me to the interesting mix of products you can find at one store in Italy.
Need a pair of shoes to go with your gelato, try the gelato/ shoe shop. Or some orange fanta to enjoy while your getting your weave. This is leading to the shop name that has taken over the number 3 position in my favorite shop names. I always notice funny shop names. May not always be funny to everyone, but funny to me. OK not politically correct some of these I know, which is why one funny one did not make it on the list. Don't shoot the messenger. Just reporting what I see. It's all observational!
The one that DID NOT make it on my list and which is located around the corner which is more of a stunnerthan funny is " Black Monkey an American Hip Hop shop" That is the full title and would for sure cause a ruckus in the US. It seems here they do not worry about such things.
So number 3 is just out my window and I like the sub title as much as the name.
CHI CHI AFRO SHOP
food stuffs and afro cosmetics
( which btw is a very lively place and a great place to pop in for a cold drink)If you say it aloud has a nice flow to it.
Number 2 in Barcelona by the port
FOC a COCKTAILERIA ( LOL) so funny
They sell t-shirts that say FOC YOU,or FOC THAT. Did not buy one but wished I had for a conversation piece.
And the number one, that has held it's place since 1998. In LA, on Labrea just south of 6th which has now become a chain.
OH MY NAPPY HAIR SALON
http://www.ohmynappyhair.com/
OK, so there is a trend for sure. Alot of Afro shops have funny names, perhaps a better sense of humor than other ethnicities including my own. I said don't shoot the messenger just reporting what I see.Sorry Gracie! & Thanks Mel.
Kristina, you know what they say " No pain, no gain" I am starting to think all these Homeopaths are sadists. I went for Acupuncture this spring and I remember when she put the needle in for my sinuses, OMG, thought I was going to pass out!
Thanks Cyber, is too bad we didn't get to meet for a cappucino. I would have loved meeting you. Your report is FANTASTICO BTW.
So I did my drops this morn at 8 am. Why so early on a Saturday? Because in addition to the street cleaners at 11 pm and 2 am, and the vendors setting up at 6 am, for the past week they have been making a secong bedroom or something in the apartment right above me so my alarm clock this morning was a JACKHAMMER! I swear, for a country that really doesn't seem to work much, especially in August if at all, these guys are working on a Saturday!
So because nothing exciting is gonna happen today except cleaning and laundry, I'll write about some random things here in Italy. Robin returns tomorrow for 4 weeks before she'll go back to NY again. Spoke to her last night because she is bringing some of my fall stuff I left at her place. Each times she comes back she is bringing more of my things, which IS really nice of her. She also went to Target for Bear's food and a bunch of other stuff that is expensive here.
I'm living off savings I'm a on a pretty tight budget, well for me. I've been here over 3 weeks and have done no shopping. Appliances do not count. It has been very hard. I have shown great self control. Those who have read my reports before know I am a huge shopper and in a city with so many fabulous things to buy, well it's been torture. So, I needed to rework my budget to allow for some indulgences.
I had budgeted for school, rent,utilities ( which is extra) groceries, entertainment/dining out, day trips and one overnight trip per month. Speaking of utilities that was also a selling point on apartment upstairs. Although warmer now is not such a good thing. With the flood of light and being on the top floor it will be warmer in the winter when it's important and heating costs will be less. Also the skype, vodaphone and my bills back home like health insurance, my stuff in storage, credit card payments. Trying not to use the credit card though that black motorcycle jacket I fell in love with may be considered an emergency. So I tweaked my numbers to allow myself 100E p/ month for shopping. In addition to that I don't use any coins. So at the end of each day I empty my wallet of coins into a cup. It adds up because they have those 1 and 2 Euro coins here. In 2 weeks I have amassed 42 E in coins. Goes toward my shopping
So here's the deal with school. Monday I start 5 weeks of language for 2 hours each morning 9-11 M-TH at Giorgio Pira. I had looked at a bunch of jewelry schools and decided on Art Fuji located on Guelfa. http://www.artfuji.it/
SACI and Syracuse both send their students there for jewelry classes so I figured must be good. Run by a very nice older American fiber artist ( Her stuff is AMAZING!) they also offer fantastic weaving and batik there. I didn't really need to take a full blown ciriculum because a) as a self taught artist of any medium I've worked in I just need the basics and can pretty much teach myself the rest b) I'm not going to be producing the jewelry. Just designing it. Some parts will be made here in Italy most probably Arezzo and the rest in Bali ( who has fair trade & wages) where I will go first 2 weeks of December. Still I want to know the medium I am designing for and best way is hands on.
So, I signed up for a 84 hr 5 week Basic jewelry making class which starts Sept. 8. M-W 1-6pm, TH 1-7, Friday open work studio. 1000 E for that class. Then, I signed up for an engraving class , 5 weeks M-th 7-9 pm. 400E. In October I will start my cast molding class which will fill the slot that engraving is in for September. also 400E. I am teetering with the thought of adding and enamel class, but not sure. So September will be very busy. I can't wait. Honestly, never thought I'd say this. I miss working my 14 hour days. I've been drawing, rendering the jewelry and handbags but I miss getting my hands dirty.
Where I have been living the past almost month is an interesting and colorful area. Not the safest late night but colorful still. In a 1 block radius is about 63 Internet cafes. Small no nonsense, un air conditioned cafe. I keep a running credit at one of the 3 I can see out my window if I run out of daily air time with Vodaphone. Also at the side of Mercato Centrale that I'm on are about 2 dozen hair weave shops. Which brings me to the interesting mix of products you can find at one store in Italy.
Need a pair of shoes to go with your gelato, try the gelato/ shoe shop. Or some orange fanta to enjoy while your getting your weave. This is leading to the shop name that has taken over the number 3 position in my favorite shop names. I always notice funny shop names. May not always be funny to everyone, but funny to me. OK not politically correct some of these I know, which is why one funny one did not make it on the list. Don't shoot the messenger. Just reporting what I see.
The one that DID NOT make it on my list and which is located around the corner which is more of a stunner is " Black Monkey an American Hip Hop shop" That is the full title and would for sure cause a ruckus in the US. It seems here they do not worry about such things.
So number 3 is just out my window and I like the sub title as much as the name.
CHI CHI AFRO SHOP
food stuffs and afro cosmetics
( which btw is a very lively place and a great place to pop in for a cold drink)If you say it aloud has a nice flow to it.
Number 2 in Barcelona by the port
FOC a COCKTAILERIA ( LOL) so funny
They sell t-shirts that say FOC YOU,or FOC THAT. Did not buy one but wished I had for a conversation piece.
And the number one, that has held it's place since 1998. In LA, on Labrea just south of 6th
OH MY NAPPY HAIR SALON
http://www.ohmynappyhair.com/
OK, so there is a trend for sure. Alot of Afro shops have funny names, perhaps a better sense of humor. Like I said don't shoot the messenger just reporting what I see.
I am off to the only ATM it seems that will give you more than 250E, the one at the SMN station. Need to make a few trips before Monday for the rent and security deposit. Wish they did pay pal, would be so much easier.
Dang hate when that double in a post happens!
As a maine coon owner I understand what having a clawed monster at 6kg attach himself to the end of your arm.
Quick cultural question; why would "Black Monkey etc" be a problem in the states what colour do you think monkeys are?
Monkies come in all colors, depends on the type. I thought that part of my post may raise an eyebrow. It's a derogatory term used sometimes in certain parts of the states by some people to refer to a certain ethnic group.It's not nice. Would just be considered in poor taste to name a hip hop shop that.Which it is. It was more the subtitle that went with the title. Both myself and the friend I was with took notice. Not so much funny funny, BUT funny in the sense a it's a shops name. Get it? Like I said just writing what I see. Probably should edit myself more here at Fodors. My mistake. I have to go call Bill Mahr now for advice.
Andrea, don't edit yourself. It's your stream of consciousness style we all love.
Yes, the name of the store would cause a ruckus here in the US. But that's what makes your observation of the cultural difference which makes it ok in Italy interesting to those of us here.
Topping
La, Enjoying your writing style and the reports (what is "nappy" hair?!!) from an exotic locale. I think you are making a lot of envious fans
I am so hooked on this report! I love the way you leave us all waiting for more. You are gonna have a lot of bummed out people if you stop writing! You really should put all of this into a book!
My husband and I will be in Florence for just a day in a couple of weeks. I feel like I want to check out all these places you've mentioned just to put a visual to them. (Don't worry, I'm not a stalker!) I can see it now- before long there will be a "Laartista tour" like they have in NY for Sex & the City or The Sopranos in NJ!
Laartista - so glad I am on your e-mail list as that is how I found out about this post!! (haven't been on the Europe board as much since our next trip is to Argentina!!)
Finally, had some time to sit down and read through it all. It is fabulous, hilarious and I am enjoying every word.
Having read your other trip reports I can only imagine the withdrawals you were feeling over no shopping budget. Glad you have found some extra budget - and the coin idea is great!! Have you found any new boots to go with the 3 pairs you brought to Morocco??!!
Can't wait for the next installment!
LMAO! I was out of touch for a few days and just caught up.
ComfyShoes - "Nappy hair" is the most kinky variety of African-American hair. It goes in and out of style, so sometimes that is a pejorative term and other times not.
Aren't some posts missing?
OMG, you are right I've been censored!. Please, it's not like I pulled a Don Imus, really I didn't make up the names, just reported them. Interesting. More reason to hurry up and get that blog done. Sorry Fodor's but I do believe you just infringed on my First Ammendment rights! Shame on you.
That said crazy 3 days will write about it tomorrow.
I can't imagine that someone considers any of the previous posts offensive in any way, shape or form.
Editors....would you care to explain what happened?
laartista listed the names of shops she's noticed in her travels in Italy and around the world--names which used English words in odd ways in countries where English is not the primary language. I suspect the editors thought some people might be offended by some of the names that referred to characteristics of particular races.
Odd, but I don't see anything missing, or at least, her post with the names of the shops is still there, dated 8/30. Is something else missing?
I also just looked for something missing and everything looks fine as of now...
Hi Andrea,
Unless I'm missing something, I don't see where you have been censored.
How was Lapo's magic potion?
Johanna
Yeah, they were gone but now back. I'd write more tonite but just heard some awful news about a friend from long ago.
Many were missing earlier but seem to be back now.
I just found this and have spent the whole night reading (and thank you for keeping me out of the lounge.) I remember when your Facebook status reported that you were homeless in Florence, and I have been curious ever since. And the answers were right here all the time!
I am sorry about your friend, Andrea.
I am continuing to enjoy your very entertaining report. Please do not censor yourself too much - leave that for others
Any updates you can share?
I going to Florence in November and love your notes. Keep going!!!
Hi Andrea,
I am sorry you have had bad news about your friend, I hope everything is alright.
I'd love to hear more about your adventures when you get the chance.
Johanna
Thanks for the interest you guys and Gracie re: my friend.

So it's been so hectic and hot that by the time I get home I just want to lay down with a fan next to me.
I'll try and do a catch up.
Sunday the 31st Aug. Robin returns from NY, gets in about 3pm and calls from the bus she had gotten at Pisa Airport. She was just about at SMN Station and needed help with the bags. A short 5 minute walk and I meet her there and we walk the bags back to the apartment at Mercato Centrale where would move from the next day. We are not back at the apartment 5 minutes and we hear Andrea the apt. owner coming up the stairs with another man.
In walks Andrea with Carlo a tiny little guy who must have been related to the landlady's friend at Via dei Pepi because like her had 3 teeth, maybe 2.Carlo had to be about 80. Why were they there? Well, the next day they had new tenants moving in and Andrea wanted Carlo to put a backsplash in. That's right a backsplash, tiles, grout, wetsaw, the whole deal at 3:30 on a sUnday afternoon. No call to say they were coming, just a drop by to install a backsplash.
Now I have installed quite a few of these and offered my help but Carlo had it covered. They said it would take about an hour, which in Italy is like dog years so you must multiply by 5. Robin and I ran out to a cafe in the square to get some eats, swang by the punta Video to pick up a few movies ( TV never was repaired) and returned home around 5. 2 hours and little progress had been made. For 3 more hours we watched Carlo and Andrea make a tile backsplash and a mess of the living room.In between skype video calls to our families. Carlo was flirting with my mom.
We finished packing the apartment for the move and watched a great movie, big thumbs up August Rush. Major tear jerker!
Monday 1 Sept.- We start language class at 9 am at Georgio La Pira. For 2 hours every M-TH for 5 weeks. The first day we would test for our level. I did pretty good placing between 1-2 on a beginner level. Robin not as well but we would end up in the same class. After testing we went to the atm at SMV station. It is the only one I have found so far that lets you withdraw up to 500E all others maxing out at 250E. We needed the cash for security deposit and rent. SNAG! Robins card had a block on it because of fraudulant activity in Texas she would find out. Luckily I had another account that I could draw from for her because this entire month til she gets back to NY she has no access to money.
We went back to the apartment to get our things, we were to meet Ana at Alfani apt at 2. The move was a complete nightmare. We had so much stuff, my back and arm have been jacked up since April and this was not going to help. When we finally got all our stuff out the front door of the building which was under a covered archway, I asked Drago ( the guy who sells the Polo shirts) if he could call us a taxi.
The taxi pulled up and he just shook his head. No way were we gettiing all our stuff in that one car. Meanwhile Bear was being a trooper! We managed to get everything in except 2 fans and the litter box. We could have squeezed it but the taxi driver would have none of it and insisted on calling an additional car. When you phone for a taxi here, the meter starts from the phone call. 30E later we are about 8 blocks away at our new place. We unload everything onto the street and then into the small hallway of the building. Take Bear up first and take care of money matters with Ana. Then the new landlady, Lorenzo's mom Giovanna stops by. She owns an antique shop on Via Maggio and that is where we will go at the 1st of each month to pay the rent.
Ana had brought us hydrangia flowers , a new vaccume, an antenna for the TV ( didn't work) and a bunch of other stuff from Ikea. To follow would be 14 trips up and down 58 stairs each time to move in. I have lost 4 pounds since I have been here on a diet of pizza, pasta and gelato because of the heat, and the stairs. We had alot of unpacking to do so we started on that. I ran agian down the stairs to the small bodega next door to get some fanta zero, my new fave, and just as opened the door to leave the building I saw 2 guys and 2 girls leaning down to take the litter box and litter we had forgot to bring up from the street. OH NO YOU DON"T! NOt my 24 $ litter box, NUH-UH! Scuzi, e" mio litterbox per mio gatto!
At around 7 pm we decided to go to Esselunga, the big supermarket that Laura had introduced me to. We walked 3 blocks to Piazza S. Marco to get the number 1B bus. The bus came we got on and asked the driver for a ticket. He said he had none and waved us to sit down. So we did.We watched people get on and off, some asking for tickets, others not, some validating, others not until we reached Esselunga. We did our shopping and caught the same bus back at 9:15 pm which was the last.
We were of a few people on the bus at first. We asked the driver for tickets ,had no tickets, no where to get them. 2 stops before we were to get off at S. Marco I said to Robin that I felt bad we had no tickets, she said everyone does it it's not a big deal. Guess what? It is a huge deal! A 45E ticket per person deal! Just as she finished her sentence I saw 3 people get on. 2 men , 1 woman, An older man in slacks and a button down. The other two in blues with little messenger bags. I knew they were bus workers, what I did not know until they approached us is that they were the Autobus Polizia!
Oh, an argument for the ages ensued. Sort of one sided as none of them spoke any English and I said I spoke no Italian. Look, we were wrong, but in our defense I was told I could get tickets on the bus and both drivers said they had none. Interestingly enough, when I said that the driver now produced exactly 2 tickets from his shirt pocket. There must be a kick back involved, a total scam. BUY YOUR TICKETS ALWAYS AT THE TABACCHI BEFORE GETTING ON THE BUS!
WE argued all the way to S. Marco where they followed us off the bus. I was almost in tears. 90E for 2 tickets. The guy was being a real hard ass and what was pissing Robin off is that there were at least half dozen Italians on the bus with no tickets or at least no validated ones ( which will get you into just as much trouble- SO VALIDATE!) But the old guy waved them off and then stomped on us. Finally I break into whatever Italian I know, which was enough. I bargained him down to 1 ticket for the 2 of us for a total of 45 E which I had to give him on the spot in cash and in return I got a crappy piece of green paper that said PAGADO!.
Next up- I think our apt. is haunted and a trip to Ikea Firenze!
Sorry to hear of your bus ticket mishap! It certainly sounds like a scam if the Italians didn't receive the same treatment.
Otherwise I love your new life!
I'm so glad you are back. This would make a great movie.
How is the language school going? I have been taking classes off and on for a couple of years but really believe total immersion is the best way.
laartista:
I love your amazing ongoing post! For sure write a book -- I believe that's what Peter Mayle did! Meantime, keep on posting and I'll keep on enjoying!!!
Your life in Florence is so interesting, please keep us informed. I feel like I am there with you and I sure wish I were in Florence right now !! thanks for sharing with us
WOW! Thanks for the tip. We'll be in Florence in November and I'll remember to ignore the "kindness of bus drivers!"
Thanks u guys. In fact I have this awesome picture I'll post with a masked super heromin a cape called MR. TICKET! He gives out 45E tickets to all those without a bus ticket. There is a request in in my language class to bring the picture in so I'll bring it in tomorrow
.
Tues,2 Sept First real day of language class. We got there about 10 minutes late which was actually early, so now we come everyday at 9:10 and every day we are early. At Giorgio La Pira all the instructors are there on a volunteer basis. Ours a woman named Veronica is just great. Our class consists of 6 students. Phillip ,21 and Alexander ,20 ,2 friends from Germany doing civil service here in Italy, part of a requirement as a way of optioning out of military service. Julia 22, a German Au Pair working for an Italian family, Marianella, 40 ( looks like a 25 yr old Mexican woman version of the kid from a Christmas Story) a mexican sister/ nun in training, Robin and I. I know all their ages because that was one of the first questions asked of us. On that note, I LOVE ITALY! Everyone asks your age, it's weird, honestly we laugh about it. My mom always said it was rude to ask a woman's age. No such rule here. Why do I love Italy, because whenever I answer Quarante Due they say Compliments to me. It's great! Anyhoo class lasts 2 hours or so, we often get off subject and it's a fun group. Marianella just watches and listens.
After class we booked on over to the McDonalds across from SMN Station. Not for lunch but it is there on that corner that is the FREE IKEA BUS!!!!!! We had some things to get. It's about a 20 minute ride out to Ikea. Just like Ikeas everywhere did not disappoint!
We bought a rustic chair for our 800 year old computer desk and a bright red rug to compliment our deep purple couch. A dark brown coffee table, dryer rack,a few chairs and little table for the terrace. We also picked up sheets, towels, small houswears, full length mirror and some other stuff. About 250 US in total which Robin put on her credit card because I had lent her cash. Right over to customer service where they fill out the VAT forms for when she flies back out at end of the month. 17% back, not bad.
We loaded our stuff into the under part of the bus. Back at the in town Ikea bus stop, Robin stood watch while I ran over to SMN Sta. taxi stand to round us up a taxi.
Damnnnn! Didn't think about the 58 stairs when we were shopping. It was most probably an uneventful night because I can't remember what we did but it's been so hot and the sun so strong it wipes you out. Probably went to bed early. Oh wait I remember now, NO, WE DID NOT GO TO BED EARLY!
The night before i had gotten a weird note on Facebook from someone I did not remember asking me if I had roomed with this girl in college. I answered back yes, we were good friends and inquired to how she was. The next night Tuesday, I received another note from the same girl with very upsetting news that this good friend I had lost touch with had passed 7 years earlier. I was very upset and without any info about how I googled her name. Just as I hit the enter button, Bam, blackout, all power except for the computer screen, laptop on batteries. We were completely freaked out, had to go downstairs to flip the circuit breaker. Robin and I just looked at each other all creeped out, Bear under the bed. No that night we were up late. I think I needed 2 xanax.
Wed. 3 Sept. Another day of class followed by a day of putting together all the IKea furniture and finish unpacking.Did I mention Robin has bunkbeds in her room. Later that afternoon we traveled the city by foot in search of a sky italia dealer. Our antenna sucked, it's an important election year, I'm a news junkie, the net wasn't cutting it for me I wanted satellite and I was gonna get it. But not that day.
Andrea, good to have you back and to find you settled in your new apartment!
The apartment with a view I mentioned in the Oltrarno for next June has 96 steps to the fourth floor. My condo building has 96 steps to the eigth floor so I've been climbing them to get in shape - just once a day at the moment and not carrying anything. Obviously those old Florentine palazzos have high ceilings!
Hi andrea,
is this the via dei alfarni apartment? sorry for asking but I've forgotten which one you fixed on and am too lazy to re-read the whole thread.
if so, there is a supermarket jsut round the corner opposite the accademia which sells most of what you could want including whole frozen octopus. yum yum.
also in piazza san marco is a tiny bar by the bus stop for fiesole which sells bus tickets as well as excellent cheap cafe corretto. which may be useful on cold mornings. nearby, on the corner with via cavor is a very up market [for the area] cafe with waitresses with the swishest uniforms I've ever seen. nice food too.
good luck with the new flat,
regards, ann
Oh my goodness, Laartista, I just found this and have been reading all night. I am saving the parts I want to read out loud to my husband.
How amazing that you are doing this! I'm a little confused about why you ended up in Florence instead of Barcelona; is it because there were jewelry schools in Florence but not in Barcelona?
Eagerly looking forward to the continuing saga.
First a note to Baily if she checks in, I have tried replying to your email all week and keep getting an error message. I have been able to respond to some emails but for some reasion some are not sending. Anyway thanks for the email.
Moolyn- Honestly 96 stairs sound like an absolute nightmare! Especially with luggage. We do 58 here a few times a day plus 65 at school and then additional stairs various other stairways. it is exhausting. I keep saying if my ass isn't 3 inches higher by the new year I'm gonna be pissed!
Ann- Hey thanks for the tips. We have shopped at Centro across from the Academia, it's right around the corner. Also on Servi ( I think) is a Conad, but I saw a skinned rabbit in there and won't go back.
NiKki- Yes, Fir instead of BCN because of the jewelry schools.
Thurs. 4 Sept
Day 3 of class, and our group has definitely gelled. We get off track a lot but always in Italian, even if we struggle. Actually learning some German too because when the instructor tries to explain what something is in English the german kids give the equivalent in German. They laugh at us every morning because we come with our Starbucks coffee to go cups in hand. That is one thing I miss already coffee to go.
The plan after class was to go to a place called EXPERT, a smaller Media World, electrionics shop. The one we were headed to was on Novoli. About a 10 min ride on Bus # 22. e get off right at the start of Novoli before the round about. on your left abit up the street is a blockbuster and next door an EXPERT. there is only one guy at EXPERT who speaks English and that is Giovanni. It was 12:30 and he wasn't due in til 4. I did best I could which was not bad with the inquiring about Sky. We would have to sign a year contract with a special promotion at 49E down, 19E of which was for installation and 30E as a deposit which I would get back. Then we could choose from different packages. I wanted to Mondo + Cinema package which had a ton of stations and movie channels. On all programming broadcast, if English was the original language you can change from the dubbed Italian backl to English with your remote. That package was 39E a month. About 15 US a week is the way I figured it and was still less than I paid for cable back in the states.
I decided to go ahead with it but soon realized I had forgotten my passport. I carried it every day but that day switched purses and forgot it. They close at 1 for a 3 hour nap so we went back to the apartment and planned on returning at 4. By then Giovanni would be there. We had been dealing with William.
At 3:30 we head back to catch the bus to once again go to EXPERT. It was an exhausting process! For 3 hours Giovanni and William tried to get us signed up. SNAG, the sky italia software 9 (siebel)for contracts only takes Italy based credit cards for direct billing and it is only with direct billing that you get the 19E install with the deposit back. Otherwise it's 99E, none back and every 2 months they will mail you a bill that you take to the post office to pay. William tried and tried to enter my info. So frustrated he was he started to thump the inside of elbow as if it were drawing blood from him. It was all very funny. At on epoint when Giovanni ca,me over it looked like it may work. He was a about to walk away and I said, Giovanni! Tu buona Fortuna, Sta qui! They thought that was quite amusing. With a no go from the computer I bought some batteries and left without my SKY.
On the way home we stopped at a place to look at Terra Digiboxes. A decoder that will get you more channels with better reception but no English channels except for maybe BBC. They were 99E as well and thought if I was going to spend taht might as well get the sky. Then I thought maybe our landlord would sign up for it and we could pay her. I emailed our contact Nic and NO such luck, wanted nothing to do with the satellite, so I would have to get it done myself. It was late we were hungry but both agreed had had enough of Italian food. There is only so much one can take. Florence does not have a large selection of other types of eateries as other international cities do. Seriously we had to search, and search hard for them. That night we ended up at a Mexican place called Tiajuans's I think on Ghilbetti( I'll double check on sp).
Food wasn't bad, my frozen strawberry margherita with a salted rim was fantastico and it was a nice change. We had no class on Friday and decided we would go to Fiesole but would go in the afternoon. We were both so tired from all the schlepping all week and the heat, that we would sleep late and go in the afternoon.
Next, Friday w/ Lapo and a trip ti Fiesole with pictures!
Oh yaye, a Lapo update!
Looking forward to your Fiesole pictures, I haven't made it up there yet.
This is so interesting getting a day to day look at actually living in Italy, having to get everyday things done as opposed to being there on vacation, with vacation money, etc.
Johanna
Andrea....sorry about my e-mail....sometimes AOL really screws up. I've had the same e-mail address for ten years...I just hate to change it.
Oh my gawd the steps!!
I remember the time my sister and I were heading up the steps in a parking garage. Two really cute, much younger guys, were following us up the steps. We both ran up 5 stories, each of us silently praying the guys car would be on a lower floor....no *&^() luck.
On the 5th floor we threw open the door and as we slammed the door....we both collasped in a heap...in exhaustion and laughter!
It is true that stairs really get you into aerobic shape...fast!
It's such a hassle getting all of our electronic components to work at the same time....I feel your pain!
Thumbs up to you and your new schedule of classes....combine that with the heat and stairs....sainthood isn't far behind!!
ps...just looked at my post. I really don't know how that strange link appeared..."classes...com".
See the electronic gods are watching.........
H E L P ........it happened again!!
lol
Bailey, because you have the "..." close together, the site thinks it is a website link ".com" I've seen it happen before.
Andrea, continuing to truly enjoy your journal. Thank you so much for allowing us to share your new life.
Thanks LC and Gracie.
Baily so funny about that classes link! Yeah seriously the stairs are ridiculous. I can't imagine it being 96 stairs like Moolyn will have to climb. I'm kind of worried about how my parents will do it when they visit. May have to install a pulley system out the window and hoist them up over the terrace.
OK Friday 5 Sept. OMG LAPO!
So I had an 11:00 am appointment with Lapo, rolled out of bed at 10:30 and walked the 4 blocks to the spa, now too conveniently close.The shiatsu had been great BUT I was having alot of problems with my neck and shoulder ( which is what I was going to PT for in NY) so I decided I would ask for a regular massage that day so he could really work on the knots around my shoulder blade.
So Lapo met me at the reception and asked me about the magic potion. I asked if it was flower bach remedy, (thanks to Juliat) and it was. He was impressed I knew. Thing about that stuff it started aggravating my allergies by the 3rd day so I stopped taking it. I told him this to which he replied "strange". I know, I'm strange. At the time I thought I had left it in the bathroom at the old apartment so told him that. He said if I found it I could return it. FOUND IT! Awesome because I was charged 35E for it.
Anyway, he seemed disappointed I did not want shiatsu, as sensual a massage that it is I really needed an old fashioned back rub. He showed me to the locker area and said to remove all clothes and gave me a robe. He said he would give me a slip in the massage room to put on. For shiatsu you are clothed, I usually wear yogawear. I got undressed but left my underwear on. When I came out of the room I followed Lapo to a new massage room, not the cave downstairs where I usually go. He handed me a little plastic bag the size of a pack of trident gum. I asked what it was, he said it was the slip to put it on. THIS? This is the slip? As I wave it around. Si, Si Andrea the slip. " Can't I just wear my own?" NO, the oil, you need the slip. OK fine, he leaves the room and as I open the itty bitty plastic bag and pull out what can only be described as a tiny paper g-string I thought, SHIT, should have stuck with the shiatsu.
Ok, look, I'm not heavy but I'm not as small as I used to be and I am 42 so things are not exactly where they once were as hard as I try. I was absolutely horrified. I know they have no modesty problems here, but I kind of do.So I put on the paper triangle and spotted a towel at the end of the massage table. I lay on my stomach as he asked me to and put the towel across my butt.
Knock, Knock, yes, all set. LOL, Lapo walks in sees me lying there with the towel and says " Andrea! What is the problem?" Well, Lapo the problem is my 42 year old cellulitey ass is sticking up in the air! That's the problem! Ok , I didn't say that but that's what I was thinking! Instead I said Mi dispiace Lapo, Sono Americana! He thought it was funny laughed and let me keep the small towel draped across my butt.
The massage was awesome! He used all kinds of oils and really got into the knots. HOWEVER, I just could not relax, I kept thinking about my butt! Vanity, a terrible quality. When he got to my hands and neck he did pull out some shiatsu on me and I called him on it. " Lapo, are you sneaking some shiatsu in?" He laughed and said yes, because it's good for you. He kept remarking on how bad my back was, I told him about the move and the trip to Ikea and carrying the stuff up all the stairs. He said that he was not just my masseur BUT ALSO my Ikea expert! REALLY? Are you offering to help with additional trips to Ikea? Hmmmm.
So after an hour long rub down I head back home for a quick shower and some lunch before we head to Fiesole. To get to Fiesole we take the number 7 bus from a bus stop at Piazza San Marco. It's a really pretty ride up there and we passed the restaurant La Lance that I had gone to with Laura. Fiesole is really beautiful, can be seen in a half day. We arrive at the main piazza by the clock tower. There is an Irish bar that we stop at for the restroom.
The weather was much cooler up there and it was overcast and would eventually rain. We walked around for a while exploring the town, taking photos and stopped for a gelato. We finally found our way to the Estruchean Ruins and Roman amphitheater. I highly recommend a trip to Fiesole and especially the ruins, very impressive. They were having some sort of shindig in the ruins that night. In the center of the stage of the amphitheater was a baby grand piano. It was very cool.
It began to rain and we stopped by that Irish bar for a cocktail. We met 5 couples in their 50's from Britian in Italy to celebrate one guys 50th B-day. We had a fun chat with them and headed home.
Next great greek food and the boboli gardens.
Links to pix from S. Gimignano, our apt view and Fiesole.
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Sangiam?authkey=1-U8v3Q7wzU#
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Ourapt?authkey=H8Rykw2xZ9E#
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Fiesole?authkey=zqsCzNnaM-o#
Hi again,
ref coffee to go, there is a little bakery/cafe right opposite the apartment we rented on via dei alfarni [no 86 from memory]. they did what we brits call "take-away" coffee, tea, hot choc on a good day, plus nice croissants etc.
DS and I regularly went there to get our breakfast to take back to the apartment.
talking about stairs, in Rome there were 81 up to our apartment door; fortunately DS decided to make himself breakfast monitor and went out every morning to the cafe opposite. the only problem came when he couldn't remember which our door was!
did you find the monastery in fiesole? the museum in the basement was both fascinating and free.
regards, ann
OMG! The view of the Duomo is Fabulous!

Loved the massage story.
You MUST get a photo of him for us...
Thanks for posting the pics. I loved the ones of Fiesole. We stayed there 2 years ago and it brought back wonderful memories. We rode the No. 7 every day into Florence.
Well, now I've added a side trip to Fiesole into our Florence portion of the upcoming trip!
Your pics are fabulous, Andrea!
Andrea, I loved your photos, especially the piano in the ampitheatre. It's wonderful to come across incongruent images like that. Fiesole is now on my list.
I've enjoyed reading your previous reports of Provence and Thailand but this is even more special because you are actually living in Florence while you are writing about it. I much prefer this to the "four days or a week is enough to see everything" approach.
I'm not worried about the 96 steps to the apartment as it will help make up for the exercise I'll be missing. We don't have to cart luggage upstairs every day or furniture from Ikea.
If you have Thursdays free, from about 8:45 until 5:00, there's a Chianti Coach Tour that I've come across in my research. It's a real bargain because it's put on by the local tourist boards. For just 15 euros per person - not 10 euros as it states on the website - the tour includes lunch, wine tastings and more. People who have taken it say not to be put off by the low price; it's as good as much more expensive tours. I just hope it's offered again in 2009!
firenzeturismo.it/en_EN/special-promotions/g…
So I stumbled across this posting earlier tonight and decided to take a look...here it is now 1:30 in the morning and I have been laughing my a$$ off.
Once again...how long do you plan on staying there?
Looking forward to many more posts!
p.s. have the blog up yet?
So enjoying this report and the details of getting "real" life together in Italy. You are very inspiring and I look forward to more!!
Laartista, congratulations on your move! I'm so glad you chose the apartment with the view of the Duomo -- great inspiration for an artist!
Can't wait for the blog, and remember:
BLOG = AD REVENUE = SHOPPING
Two requests though:
1. Please give your mum her own page on your blog, she cracks me up (I loved the citizenship story where you had the 3-way with the embassy). And, I could just imagine her flirting w/Carlo!
2. And, a page devoted to Bear. Guaranteed to be highly-viewed by all of his fans here.
Looking forward to more~
no updates???? you're killing me here!
Annh- Thanks for the coffee shop info, will check it out. Did not get to the monestary in Fiesole, a reason to go back

A bunch of pomp and then the joust.Not really PC but I have noticed in Italy there is no political correctness at all. Nothing is off limits, and they let you know it. Anyway the guy who gets the best shot at the Sacaran wins the Golden Lance. We enjoyed some roasted peanuts and San Benedetto Limone iced tea in a plastic bottle. They take all the bottle tops away. Guess they have had problems in the past with people throwing them.
Krist- I KNOW! Our Duomo view is AWESOME! Even prettier at night all lit up.
Bfrac/Melj- glad you liked the pix
Moolyn-Thanks for the info about the wine tour. Do you have the entire link? Would love to do that.
Jgg- Thanks for the nice words
Heartofsouth-Plan on staying at least a year. Thing is everyone I speak to from the states never leaves so we'll see. I have been slacking on transfering installments to the blog. I really should get on that.
And speaking of blogs, what's this Mvor
BLOG = AD REVENUE = SHOPPING
Please-expand
Sat. 6 Sept. A freakin scorcher.
We got up super late around noon and it was dreadfully hot out. Real feel like 107. We had planned on going to Viareggio for the beach but it was late and I didn't feel like sitting on a hot train for 1:45 each way. Plus I decided to go with the 99$ down SKY package and wanted to get back to EXPERT because we were starting jewelry classes on Monday and would have no time to get back during the week.
We decided to go to the Boboli Gardens til about 4 and then head up to Novoli area and Expert.I felt so bad for Bear, we left the fans running and he was sprawled out on the bathroom floor to keep cool. It takes us about 15-20 to walk to the Pitti Palace where the Boboli Gardens are. I have been to the palace a bunch of times but because all previous times in Florence were during winter I had never seen the gardens. 10E gets you into the gardens plus the costume and porcelin museums. We did not check out either museum. Instead we parked ourselves on a wall ledge at the top tier of the gardens where there was a great breeze. It was just so hot!Thumbs up for the gardens, a really nice way to spend part of the day weather permitting.
Stopped for a gelato on our way back to EXPERT where we were greeted once again by William and Giovanni. 2 hours later I had a SKY contract in my hands and a decoder box to go with it. They said it could be up to 2 weeks but someone would call to install the parabola on our terrace.
The heat was unbearable we stayed in that night made a big salad and watched youtube clips of Bill Maher and John Stewart ripping in to the ridiculousness that is Sarah Palin.
Sunday 7 Sept. A trip to Arezzo.
So I had heard about all the great Autumn festivals in Tuscany and so I had been jotting them down.One that I really wanted to go to was the Giostra Del Saracino which is the Jousting of the Sacaran. Dates back to the middle ages when the Christaian crusaders battled the North African Arabs ( Moors) to drive them out of Europe. A Baroque version popped up in the 15th and 16th centuries and fell off sometime in the 18th century. In 1931 it was re-established with the original 14th century ambiance.
Takes place 2 x a year , in June and the first Sunday of September. Super festive, it was a blast. Starts with a parade of 300 or so people dressed in garbs accompanying the 8 knights who represent the 4 quarters of the city of Arezzo. All the towns people are out, all stores are open, there is also a fantastic antique fair which was held the same day as well as 1st Sunday of every month. I will go back in October, did not get a chance to look around the fair.
Anyhoo, when we first got to Arezzo we noticed how everyone was wearing different colored scarfs with crests on them but didn't know what it meant. So we asked. The 4 quarters of the town represented in the joust are:
Porta Crucifera- Red and Green
Porta Del Furo- Yellow and Purple
Porta S' Andrea- Green and White, ( i believe the winners from last year and highly booed.
Porta Santo Spirito ( Blue and Yellow ( The appeared crowd favorite.
Basically they parade through the streets of Arezzo and on to the main square where the buildings are decorated with the crests. There are stands to sit ,we got standing only tickets at 5 E. We got lost somehow trying to find the entrance and watched as the poor Porta Santo Spirito team walked thru the Porta Crucifera neighborhood and were heckled beyond belief! It was AWESOME!
Finally we find the entrance and try to perch up on a stairway. At 5'2" it was really hard for me to see anything so I got a play by play from Robin while I watched the crowd. Just as fun.Pay attention to the photo of Roberto Dangerfield standing behind Robin. When we want to get a shot of someone I'll pretend I'm taking a pix of her and just move the lens over.
I loved Arezzo, on my list of really great Tuscan towns to send the parents to when they come and visit. Arezzo is also where a ton of jewelry is made so I have decided to scout the area nad maybe keep production in Italy. Might have the first samples made here and see how the numbers crunch out. Arezzo is basically the bottom corner of the golden triangle , the jewelry production center of Italy.
You might notice in some of my bunch o photos there are pix of guys with purses. It is the MAIN PURSE PHENOMENON! They all carry them, all the guys, everyones got a man purse. Do not know if that craze will ever hit super big in the US but here it's HUGE! And not just with the gay guys, ALL GUYS! The most popular man purse is the small Gucci messenger bag. Worn by guys of all ages all orientations and with all different outfits. Occasionly you see a special treat, the man purse, colored pant combo. Not as common but a sight to behold. THAT, I hope does not catch on, not a fan of the colored pants. Know my dad will be and I can just hear him now. " Pum, look at these orange pants" I've pre-warned my mom. Anyway, the most fantastic man purse I have seen so far was the lime green crocheted one, WITH FRINGE! There is also a variety of ways the man purse is worn. Like I mentioned there is the small messenger bag. Also larger versions worn across the body or on one shoulder as a woman would wear it. Plus the fanny pack purse also worn across the the body as opposed to on the waist.I've become a man purse photo stalker, can't help it. And it's not just me, Robin's got a bunch on her camera too!
We caught a 7pm train back to Firenze and stopped in for some Chinese food somewhere. It was just alright, no great shakes, cheap though. Next Start at Fuji and move over Lapo, there's a new sheriff in town!
Below pix from Boboli and Arezzo
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Boboli?authkey=7K9nHlf4q3E#
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Arezzo?authkey=-7ReQZCrt6o#5245842180433542066
Did you see lots of cats at the Boboli Gardens?
I missed the news that you had moved! Bookmarking to follow your adventures.
Andrea, The photos from Giostra Del Saracino are pretty cool with insignias under everyone's windows etc. A question, is the sky always gray-ish?
May be a small bottle of massage oil given it is Italy ?
Just a funny idea to me although it doesn't look bad.
As a man myself, I wonder what guys carry in those man purses. Beyond a wallet and a handkerchief (yes, I am seriously old fashioned....), I have never had a need for much else. May be lip gloss, a mirror, a comb, etc ?
ComphyShoes-My husband often carrys a bag like that, but only when we travel. This is because at some point I told him I was not going to carry everything for the both of us (especially now that I carry a DSLR and lens which takes up most of my bag)! Usually he has stuff like a small camera, small binoculars, a guidebook, maybe even an umbrella. Depends on the needs of the day.
Andrea-Some blogs have adverstising on them and from that you can generate revenue. However, I would not count on it being enough to buy even a new pair of shoes!
Still, please do the blog, you'll find that it's a lot of fun and you'll have all your photos and writing in one place forever (as opposed to on Fodor's where eventually the thread will sink if you stop writing on it). Google's Blogger format is easy and free.
Thanks, Kristina. I also carry something similar (actually slightly bigger) on travels, obviously. For business, I typically carry a briefcase which is suitable in my line of work. I think La's shots seem to show men going about their daily lives.
Anyway, I was obviously joking. People can carry whatever they want.
Loved your pictures of Arezzo - what a spectacle! The sky looked blue to me, with puffy white clouds. And was it as hot that day as the previous one? Those knights must have been sweltering.
Sorry, Andrea! Try this link for the Chianti Coach tour: http://tinyurl.com/6cp52f
Thanks for the update, laartista.
How's that handsome cat of yours doing?
I got a big kick outta your voyeuristic man-purse images!!
What a great day in Arezzo!
I bet you'll be thrilled when the weather cools down?
Fabuloso pictures of Arezzo, Andrea! The festival looks amazing, and so does the town.
The man purses aren't so bad - lots of guys wear a messenger bag in NYC, so it's not so strange to me. But those red pants! Whoa! Bright colored pants for guys is a trend I hope doesn't catch on too big!
Thanks for sharing your Great Adventure with us. It's so much fun to read your posts, I'm only slightly envious (!) of what you're doing!
Thanks again,
Paule
Andrea, somewhere, sometime (a documentary, perhaps?) I saw this tournament. A guy from one of the neighborhoods wanted so badly to be the lead jouster (probably getting the terminology wrong). It's apparently some HUGE honor.
If I only have one day to trip outside of Florence in October, should it be Arezzo or Fiersole?
So I saw this morning upon waking up that there was a new posting from you. As eager as I was to read it...I firmly believe good things are worth waiting for. So I cleared some time in the afternoon to sit down to read.
I decided to make some good ole home made southern chicken and dumplings then I would kick back with my food in front of the computer to read the latest addition.
In my eagerness to hurry the cooking....I sliced my finger open....instead of the chicken. I swear the thing jumped off the plate. Just goes to show you...don't cook while you are distracted lol.
Once again, enjoyed the latest updates on the festival and the man purses...quite ammusing!
I hope you are enjoying yourself and can't wait for the next post.
best to you....
Lobo and Loba wish you the best in Florence.
I am soooo excited for you! I can so see you staying in Florence permanently.
The pics are great.
Loved the pictures of the festival!! My hubby always carries a "man bag" when we travel. He's not a Gucci guy but his is a more conservative Dunhill. He usually carries a camera, water bottle, map, guidebook and small umbrella. It has been really handy so I don't have to carry everything!
MelJ- I personally would pick Arezzo over Fiesole, more to see IMO. BUT we went to Cortona this past Sat. pix and report to come and I really loved that town!

Funny to hear them talk about stuff. Most
Suze- Thanks for asking Bearagatto as I now call him is doing great! Sneaked out in the hallway last week and scared the crap out of the neighbors. They don't grow cats like him in these parts. Everyone who sees him loves him though. He is BELLO! AND for some reason EVERYONE asks while making a scissor motion if he is castratto! And yes he is.
Moolyn- Thanks for the link I think we are going to do that chianti tour this Thurs. and blow off language class. The benefits of being an adult student
Madem- No, no cats at Boboli. It was so hot though I'm sure they were all under a bush or somewhere shady
Thanks so much Lobo's, still plan on a weekend in Lisbon so will for sure give you guys a heads up, ciao to Matt if you speak w/ him
Heart- what I wouldn't do for some chicken and dumplings. I am already kind of over the italian food.
Thanks Mari for the well wish
Ok about the man purse. Clarification: I'm not talking about day bags for travel, I'm really talking about the man PURSE. I don't have aproblem with them just think it's funny they are SOOOOOO in fashion!
Mon. 8 Sept. First day of Physical Therapy and first day of jewelry class.
So remember how I went to Dr. Soldani re: my swollen leg and he said bad circulation I needed PT but the guy was on vaca. Well, it was the 8th, he was back and I had an appointment at 8 am. I had been going to PT for a few months back home for my shoulder which is still messed up so I thought I would talk to him about that too.
I left for my appt. and told Robin I'd meet her at language class at nine. The Dr.s office is located right next to the bronze pig market, a 10 min. walk from our very centrally located apartment. Dr. Soldani met me in the waiting room and took me back to meet the PT. I nearly fainted!
Ladies, I say this with all honesty and men well sorry for being opposite sexist but this guy was the best looking man I have ever seen in person in my entire life. And then he askedme to get naked! He did, a quick handshake, Dr. Soldai told him about my shoulder, my leg was not swollen so they ignored it and then he told me to get naked waist up. No gown to put on, didn't leave the room, did not even turn around. NOw I have NEVER had to get undressed for PT, and at a DR.'s office they leave the room, but no not here in italy, oh no, they watch. So now in a matter of days I have been seen undressed with 2 different extremely good looking guys and I'm not dating either one. What's wrong with this picture.
Needless to say I was not comfortable with this request. PT guy spoke very little English but he said, I am doctor it's ok. Yeah, not OK because YOU DON'T LOOK LIKE A DOCTOR! Clooney's got nothing on this guy. REALLY!!! I left my bra on, lay on my stomach and then, THE DOCTOR unsnaps it and pulls it out from under me like a magician pulling a table cloth from under the plates off a table. Major spillage going on.30 minutes of some wanky half-ass chiropractic half pounding massage,pushed on my lymph nodes in my face and said I should feel better. I didn't. I thought I might have even felt worse. Where was the ice and heat and electric stimuli? Where were the isometric exercises? That session was gratis included in my DR. visit from a few weeks ago. But he told me to come back Wed.
I met Robin in class and she asked how it went, I said not great but OMG you have got to see this guy! Really? Yeah, I think he may be an ex-soccer player. I was right!
It was also our first day of jewelry class. 1-7 basic jewelry making ( metalsmithing) and 7-9 engraving. Well with in 10 minutes I knew that basic jewelry class was not for me. Sawing and gripping and all kinds of stuff that within that short time I was feeling in my bad shoulder nad arm. If I was going to still torture my body I'd be doing it with an arform I was good and successful at. I dropped the basic class and signed up for cast molding instead. Much easier on the hands. Thing is I don't really need to use my hands at all just wanted to get a feel for different techniques. My designs are already down on paper, taken from my years of experience in a different art form. You can be a master craftsman at anything, a master metalsmith or jewelry maker but if your ideas are stale or just plain ugly doesn't matter how good you make it. Unfortunately that's the problem with a lot of artists,originality is dead. Hope this doesn't sound arrogant but that's not my problem, my problem is getting other people to make my vision a reality, and do it well. We'll see how it all flushes out.
Anyhoo, I really enjoyed the casting class, worked on a rounded ring. The kids at the school are all really young, under 21, I could be their mom, but they don't know that and I don't tell.
An hour break and we met with Franco our engraving teacher who is a big wig in Florentine design has worked for all the major jewelry companies, speaks NO English, neither does our other instructer, makes it a bit more difficult but we just watch the demonstration more closely.Anyway Franco just gave us a list of supplies to get and vbring to class the next day which was Wed.
Tues, Wed, Thurs. Class, class and more class.Except on Tues. am when I awoke with the Aunt Flo ( OK maybe too much info) but I could not get out of bed so I skipped language class and Robin went alone. Made it to my afternoon class. AND except Wed. when we were out the door for language and my cell phone rang. It was SKY coming to install our dish. Priorities, so we skip language and watch as they install a dish the size of a mini cooper on our terrace. However we are having a problem getting the smart card activated so channels are still limited.
On Wed. I had my second PT appt. I told Robin she had to come with just to see the PT. She did, we went at 11:00 right after language class. I went to use the restroom and when I came back Robin was already in the room with Dr. PT. I could tell be the stupid ear to ear grin on her face that we were agreed about this guy. She stayed in the room pretending to read a magazine while Dr. worked over my back and she checked out the DR. Only in Italy do they re-hook your bra for you. Chivalry is not dead! Dr. PT decided I must see the lead sports medicine guy in Florence , THE SPORTS DOCTOR to team Fiorentina, Soldani is the internist but this guy Manetti is the Osteo and sports med guy, head of sports medicine at Univ. of Firenze. I had been worked over neuro and pt before I left NY , cervical spine MRI and I didn't think they would tell me anything I already didn't know but I hadn't had that shoulder imaged so I agreed to meet with him so he could ultrasound the area. Dr. PT said it would be 150 E, I really need to get BUPA!
The only time the Sports Dr. could fit me in was the next morning at 7 am. so I said OK. When we left as we are walking down the stairs Robin just looks at me and says OMG, have you ever? Nope, never have, told you. She said, for a minute I was like Mike who? ( that's her boyfriend) About a half an hour of Dr. Pt talk that could rival dialogue in Sex in the City we both had Doc PT on the brain. If I get a picture of anyone it'll be that guy.
Engraving class is very difficult. The good thing is it's just me Robin and the instructor so we get all the help we need, communicating is not easy but getting better with each day of language class. Franco even spent some time giving us a recipe for sauce. He says his wife is a great cook, they all are.
Thursday at 7 am I was at the Docs office and Robin came with again. Not for moral support during my ultrasound but to get another look at Dr. PT.Thank goodness it showed nothing, a neuro exam of my left arm and shoulder showed some weakness in a muscle so on a piece of white paper with a stamp the sprts DR. wrote a scrip for 3 days of Medrol. Suggested I go back to Dr. PT the following week which I have decided not too because a) it's expensive and b) I feel worse afterwards. I might just start yoga again and see if that helps.
When I got to the Farmacia to get the scrip filled they said he had not put a dosage on there so back to the office to have it fixed.
Days are long, beds uncomfortable, sinks in the middle so another trip to Ikea is needed for wood slats to put between the bed frame and mattress.
Next dinner with Laura and a trip to Cortona.
Wow, forget dating in America, I'm moving to Florence and getting an appointment w/Dottore McHottie.
We need pictures!
Johanna
One of the best things I've read in a long, long time! I feel as though I'm living right there with you! Good thing the kids know how to cook, I started reading 2.5 hours ago!! Can't wait for more!
Did I miss the blog link, or is it not ready yet?
I have a 22 lb Calico (plus 4 others)...cats are fabulous!
Oh, geez, now I'm off to research Cortona
Can't wait to see the pics, Andrea!
well if you want a good ole southern recipe for chicken and dumplings im your girl! very easy, cheap and you can eat for days lol.
I know what you mean though about getting sick of Italian food after a while...I LOVE Italian food but was tired of it after one week in Rome...yes I actually broke down and went to McDonalds...I know I should be stoned for doing so but chicken nuggets have never tasted sooooo good!
Sorry to hear that the PT was so crappy...at least you had something nice to look at while going through it.
Awaiting another post!
I'm supposed to be finishing up my own trip report, which includes Florence, but I'm having more fun reading yours.
~mebe
Andrea, re: the blog. I agree with Kristina that you should do your blog to have as a record/keepsake of your experience and that if you were to only host ads it would probably not generate a lot of revenue.
However, if you plan to host an online store for your jewelry, the blog will help drive traffic to your site.
Another way to generate income via your blog is to get others to link to you (generating click throughs). (Already, you have relationships here with fellow bloggers, are using services in Florence that might wish to associate with your blog: language school, realtors, etc.)
Like anything, the amount of effort/work spent on the blog will help determine the revenue stream. I guess the most important question to answer is the role that you want the blog to play in your life/business.
Here are some links that might help you:
Google's Blogger
https://www.blogger.com/start
Google's AdSense
https://www.google.com/adsense/login/en_US/
...How to improve your site's search ranking:
http://tinyurl.com/3pxqz4
Track your competitors' sites
(The sites you'll be comparing may be too small/too little data for this to be relevant.)
http://compete.com/
Chocolate and Zucchini
A little blog that has grown into an empire of 40,000 plus readers.
http://chocolateandzucchini.com
Am loving this. Ditto for a picture of Dottore PT!
Paule
Awwww crud....I saw that there was a new hit on this thread and was hoping and praying you had posted an update....fooey....I'm trying to wait patiently but it's just not working....I need a new post to get me through my boring day!
OK I'm over it lol...hope everything is going well for you and look forward to hearing your latest updates.
Hey Thanks for all the info Mvor! And thanks e1 else.

So Robin is in the midst of cooking for our Mexican dinner for some German students from our language class. Not an easy thing or economical thing to do when it costs like 20 bucks to make guacamole!
I just spent the last 45 minutes trying to translate my first piece of mail! From Sky Italia, I think they said they cannot activate my smart card because I don't have an Italian bank account. I already knew that. Can't figure out why they would send some guys up 4 flights of stairs with a satellite dish, install it and then not activate it. It's ITALY! I should have my Hungarian passport Monday, it was Fed-exed from the States, then get a new codice fiscale and hopefully open a bank account by Wed. Fax the iban number to Sky and be up and running in time for the debates next weekend. Her's to hoping
So We've met some real charachters here. Franco for ivstance. He is our engraving instructor. Speaks NOT A SINGLE WORD of English. Somehow we communicate with him. Anyway he's a real arrogant SOB and should be because he's amazing at what he does. A master engraver and jewelry designer who has worked for Cartier, Gucci and now Graziella. He has major attitude is 57 and really likes Robin. Me, not so much. Artistic head butting going on I think. He kept saying hgow easy mosaics were. NOt Mine!! Franco. Si, Si Facile! So I brought in my laptop and pulled my arsenal of photos. Silently he looked and when he was done without expression looked at me and said Brava. Facile? I asked him. Noooo, non e facile. OOPS guests are her bbl
As I asked a long time ago in this thread, where can we see some of your work? Other artists want to be impressed along with Franco.

now dang it that post was just a tease!
Sorry bout that. Nukesafe-will post some pix of mosart.
So don't get me wrong I actually really like Franco, I think he's a trip. Last week Robin had made some past with sauce and brought some to eat in between classes. She had some left over and when Franco arrived I told her to offer him some because he had gone on about the long involved process of his wife making sauce. She did, He took the for a grabbed a bite of gnocchi in the sauce and as soon as he put it in his mouth made a face of absolute disgust walked over to the garbage can and spit it out. We were hysterical. Franco, non piacere? NO, No bene! And walked to his work station without another word.
We sit right behind hem, very close proximity with our backs toward each other. The class is hard for me because I have trouble gripping the stick that holds the wax that the copper to engrave is on. So I use the time to pick his brain. But always through Robin. I'll say Robin ask Franco....... And she'll turn around and always start with Franco, and then the question. We've had some very funny exchanges with him.
Like most of the Italians we've met Franco asks alot of inappropriate questions. They have no filters. He asked me how old I am, how old my parents are, why I'm not married why I don't have children. At 42 this is a sensitive subject.I told him I hadn't met the right guy. A buono uomo is difficile a trovare. I asked him if he knew anyone for me, perhaps a friend of his. He burst out laughing. Why so funny? I think I'm either going to start telling people I'm 32 when they ask or 42 and divorced. I'm sick of the questions.
Last Sunday Robin and I were sittiing on a stoop across the street from our building eating some pizza and a car pulls up in front of the magazine store. It's Franco! and a woman dressed in all black, tight jeans knee high boots long hair, totally Italian. We wondered whether it was his wife or perhaps his girlfriend. We had imagined his wife in a grey bun slaving over the stove making the sauce. She went into the store and we yelled Franco! He leaned his head out the window saw us ,said ciao and turned back around and then they drove off. Next day in class Robin asked if that was his wife.
Then Wednesday I had gone to talk to Kathy the woman who owns the school to see if I could have my passport fed-exed there. When I came back I saw Franco's wife talking to him, Robin motioned while mouthing, That's the wife! When she left Robin asked if she brought him dinner, he said no. Me and Robin usually discuss what we'll ask him before she does. We sit right behind but usually whisper, I think he understands us. I said, do you think he has kids. Cue Robin, Franco, Hai Bambinos? SI, una figlia. How old is she? 27. Is she an engraver too? SI, BRAVA! Is she better than you at engraving. NO! IO! NOw his wife is a hot shit and does not look old enough to have a 27 year old. I said do you think the wife is his baby mama. We just about keeled over laughing. Well we can be inappropriate too! How old is your wife Franco? 56! No way, I lean over to Robin and say I want her doctors phone number. No way she looks like that without a bit of help from the needle. Lip injections are HUGE here!
Then I asked Robin do think he has grandchildren. She says how do you say grandfather, I said well grandma is nona so nono. She repeats to me Nono? and then Franco pipes in NONO NO!Before she even asks! On Wed. we got a third student in engraving a Taiwanese girl named Cathy. So Franco has a problem with Chinese, anything Chinese. He has lectured us on not eating at Cinese restaurants in Florence, no good, He tells Robin her jewelry is made in China and is radioactive. Anyway he was so harsh on this poor girl. We had felt the brunt of his moods the night before when 20 minutes before class ended and I showed him my engraving and asked Bene?He said No! Domani! Domani? I repeated and he snapped DOMANI! I looked at Robin and said I think he is basically telling us to get the hell out of here.
LOL Our class ends at 9, at 8:30 Franco asks if we are hungry, do we want to go to dinner? Hmmm, inviting us to dinner, maybe we are making a breakthrough here. We said yeah, sure. OK a lunedi! Lunedi? We are not going to dinner with you Franco? He laughs at us NO, you go to dinner, and he says I am going home to watch Fiorentina play!
We all leave and walk with Cathy from Taiwan, she is going our way. We talk about class and cats. I've been feeling people out as a possible Bear nanny if I go away on a weekend. Cathy has 2 cats back in Taiwan. A fat orange cat named Tomato and a Siamese named some Chinese name I can't pronounce. She tells us all about how she studied jewelry in London and now here. About the gross American guy roommate she had that didn't flush the yoilet so she move out and in with 5 other students. I tell her about Bear and right there on the street she starts clapping and jumpng up and down.It was very funny. When we get to our building we say, Ok Cathy we live here, we will see you on Monday. She asks if the cat is here? Yes, he's upstairs, starts clapping again and asks , Can I see?Can I see? How can I say no to a clapping Tawainese girl. Ok come on up.
Now I've told about Bear and his attitude problems and that he is a bit of a scardy cat. Well she comes in grabs a hold of him and starts squeezing his face while talking to him in Mandarine. Bear was so freaked out! His ears were back and I was only concerned he shouldn't bite her.She stayed, crouched on the floor, literally, for an hour every so often lifting her hand and saying Hi Bear! HI Bear! He finally went under the bed and stayed there til she left, which was only prompted by Robin asking if I was hungry and wanted dinner.
After language class on Thursday the 3 German kids aged 19,21,22 asked if we wanted to get some coffee. They make me feel old! We went with themto a place in the central Market where a cappuccino is under a euro. We sat a round a while and chatted. Julia the girl who is 19 asked if we wanted to meet for dinner Fraday night. We think she is lonely, lives with an old woman who is not nice to her. She has become close with the 2 German guys Philip and Alex so the three of them are always together. Somehow we ended up having them for dinner last night. it was fun, they seem more mature, cultured and world aware than American students their age. We laughed ALOT, it was interesting but when they left I told Robin I really need to find some people my age to hang with. I mean I can be their mom! We were supposed to go to 5 Terra today but woke up late I was up til 4am last night watching Larry King, so we'll go tomorrow. Not done tweaking the pix from Cortona so will post those later.
laartista,
For Italians, asking your age is not inappropriate--it is indeed one of the first things they want to know and is an acceptable question. I remember years ago being struck by the fact that they even did it in newspaper articles. I saw news items about our president, not scandal sheets but the latest treaty negotiations or something, that would read, "President Bill Clinton, 52, proposed . . ." So don't take it personally.
Sounds like you are making friends with an interesting group.
So you made Tex-Mex for the german kids? How did that turn out and how did they like it? Is it difficult to find the right ingredients to make it?
Hi laartista, it's been interesting to read about your life in Florence. Sounds like fun.
I, too, have found old world Italians to be very, um, inquisitive. Many questions are asked in such rapid fire succession. But this is the norm? Perhaps one of our Fodorites could give a little lesson in Italian social culture to help us all?
This is so much fun to read. Thank you so much for taking the time to share with us.
What a cultural soup....two Americans making a Mexican dinner for three Germans while in Italy!!
Franco...what a little Napoleon....an arrogant tyrant.
I guess Italians asking everyone his/her age is the same as American's asking "what do you do?" ??
Thanks so much for your update!!
Hang in there....I sense a date on the horizon!!!
Hi Andrea
"Like most of the Italians we've met Franco asks alot of inappropriate questions. They have no filters. He asked me how old I am, how old my parents are, why I'm not married why I don't have children. At 42 this is a sensitive subject.I told him I hadn't met the right guy. A buono uomo is difficile a trovare. I asked him if he knew anyone for me, perhaps a friend of his. He burst out laughing. Why so funny? I think I'm either going to start telling people I'm 32 when they ask or 42 and divorced. I'm sick of the questions."
Ha ha, I know just how you feel! I took my Mom to see some old friends of hers today. I had never met them, so the introduction went something like this.... So, you're the youngest of her daughters? Yes. How old are you? I'm thirty nine. Oh, are you married? No. Any children? No. Really? After that, I got the familiar look. Oh well.
I like the idea of fudging my age!
Sounds like you're meeting some cool people.
Johanna
Been lurking for a while,,,,,you know these are truly hysterical!! I now know where to get the bus to Ikea in Florence, ya never know when that can be worked into a conversation! Keep writing girl.
woo whooo! glad you finished the update! can't wait for the next posting... lol tex mex in italy...now thats amusing!
Oh and by the way..Franco really needs to lighten up!
Oh dear! How did I miss the post on Dott. McHottie?!?!?! Pictures, please.

When I go to Florence next, I will pay for your PT so that I may set eyes on Dott. PT.
I can identify with your discomfort about all the personal questions. My husband's family did the same thing. I became an expert at dancing around the answers but they were also experts at re-phrasing and asking again.
My la professoressa (from Sardegna) told me that they will ask all about your family and personal life, but never what you do, that would be considered too private. Like asking how much money you make. Well, my mother-in-law never had a problem asking that question either!
Thanks everyone for reading! I plan on working on the blog next month when I have some more free time.
BIG BIG NEWS!!!!! My Hungarian passport and citizenship papers arrived. I am officially dual. Yeah!! Today I went to get my official codice fiscale, the unofficial one came from Expert when I got my Sky contract. I went to the Agencia di Finance located on Nazionale. They looked at me kind of funny because my Hungarian passport says born in Brooklyn ny, I explained and Voila Codice Fiscale. Next, tomorrow to the bank to open an account and hopefully my sky smart card will be active by Thursday. Such excitement!
So before I get to Cortona and Cinque Terre I have to fill in on my conversation w/ Franco tonight. I literally almost choked on laughter! Last week when he asked me why I wasn't married I forgot to post part of the conversation and didn't remember until I saw him tonight. When I told him last week I couldn't find a good man and then when he laughed when I asked if he knew anyone for me I told him it was ok, I was waiting for Clooney. Mind you all our conversations take place in Italian which I think make them extra funny because although getting better, my Italian sucks. Anyway he told me I had to go to Lago di Como for Clooney, I replied Lo So Franco Lo So, Vado sta fine settimana. He said really? I told him I was going there to marry George Clooney. He practically spit his drink out laughing.
So tonight when Franco arrived on his pastel pink bicycle ( is that so funny) I was outside in the courtyard talking with another student. Robin and I blew off engraving class last night because Cinque Terre kicked our asses on Sunday. I said Ciao Franco Come estai. He said Bene and walked inside. About 10 minutes later I walked in. Caterina(the taiwanese girl) was there, Robin was making a call. As I placed my bag on the work desk, Franco said without lifting his head or turning around, Bouna Sera Senora Clooney. Without missing a step and with a straight face I said Buona Sera. Then he asked how the weding was. I said Bene, Grazie.Funny thing is I never wear rings but just a few hours earlier I was cleaning out my bag and my grandmothers wedding band was on the bottom. Beautiful platinum w saphires and diamond, art deco ring. Terrible I know for it to be at the bottom of my purse, but I probably put it there for safe keeping.Anyway I put it on during casting class. So while Franco was inquiring about my non existant wedding to George Clooney I slipped the ring from my middle finger to my ring finger. I flung my hand around and asked if he liked the ring George gave me. I said it's platinum Franco. He said bellisimo.
When Robin came in I told her what happened we laughed so hard. I basically can't do the engraving so I just entertain Franco. He asked where George was, I said he had to go to LA for a movie. Everytime he tried to slip me up I came back with an answer and always with a straight face and then we would just start laughing.I had him in stitches tonight, broke the barrier!
He asked if I call him George or Senor Clooney? I said I call him Senor Dolce! That was it, I think Franco fell off his stool on that one. He followed up by asking if my fantasma moved to Como with me and what George thought about it/. I said no, the ghost stays in Florence with Robin. He said Robin doesn't go to como, I said, No, George no piacere Robin! At which point Robin piped in Hey! We got nothing done tonight, but it was a hoot.Even Catarina was laughing. BTW my casting instructor Agnozio who is Argentine also teaches Tango and my new friend Catarina also does Tango so guess who's taking Tango class? That's right me! I've lost my mind.
So last Friday night Robin and I went back to that Greek restaurant with Laura. She hadn't been there yet and I hadn't seen her in a few weeks so she came to meet us at the apartment and we then went for a greek feast. It was delic. and we made plans to all go to Cortona the next day. Laura offered to drive so we could see the countryside. Really, reaaly nice of her.
So Sat. morning we were to meet at 11 at Piazza Liberta. It was pouring and cold but that did not stop us. We went to Cortona in the rain. I guess the drive was a bit over an hour. The last three weekends, to Arezzo, Cortona and Cinque Terre, all rain! Anyhoo we had a great time in Cortona, Laura had never been either. we had an amazing lunch, they had frittatas, I had pasta with a pesto/marscapone sauce YUM! We walked the town, window shopped. It's a beautiful town and the surrounding countryside and views, gorgeous! Plus I love Under the Tuscan Sun so this was a real treat! So far it's the top of my list of Tuscan towns, Arezzo in second.The rain let up for at least part of the day but I definitely want to go back and see Cortona in better weather. On the way home Laura swung us by one of the outlet centers ( not the fancy gucci ones) to get some lindt hot chocolate mix. It was cold that day and wet and we wanted some coco!
Pix of Cortona- 5 terre will have to wait til tomorrow
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Cortona?authkey=JB4xAW-Ox9s#
Buongiorno, Signora Clooney. Tu sei molto fortunato!!!
Keep the stories coming, per favore.
Baci e abbraccio da Yvonne from Australia.
Okay, Andrea, Cortona it is (I'm easy). Your photos are bellisimo and I LOVE Under the Tuscan Sun, but didn't realize it was filmed there. That sinched the deal!
More, more...
Senora Clooney!! ROFL!
Love your report, this is the most fun I've had all day!!
The pix of Cortona are cool - love seeing you and Robin as well.
Paule
Loved the pictures...actually just watched Under The Tuscan Sun the other night...one of my favorites!
Hope all is well with you
Loved Cortona.....a nice little vacation for the eyes!!! Keep the reports coming, they are the best treat after a long day working! Must go for now.......Ciao Senora Clooney.
Was that last picture of a mannequin with a man-purse? Good catch!
Yep, those are man purses Sandi! So we were supposed to go to 5 Terre on saturday but were up really late with our Mexican/German get together so we decided to just go Sunday. The weather was SUPPOSED to be about 75 and sunny both days, not the case. Sunday started out nice but by the time we got to Monterosso it was overcast, drizzly and cool.
We took the 10:27 am train to Monterosso with a connection in Pisa. About 2 1/2 hours in all and 30E RT p/p. Going there,there were NO seats, we each got a jump seat at the beginning of a car. Not the most comfortable but better than standing.
I had been to 5 terre before about 4 years ago. Robin's 1st time. Bottom line it's beautiful in any weather. First time I was there was early March, everything was closed and stayed at a place that I really liked called Locanda Gigante. That trip was a solo one to 5 Terre, Milan, Innsbruck and Zurich. Was in 5 Terre for 3 days. Funny story: When I checked into Locanda Gigante a woman named Maria Pia checked me in. I had spoken with her on the phone before arriving. She was very nice, showed me my room, told me reception ( which is basically a desk) leaves at 8pm and gave me a key to get in later than that. There was only one restaurant open for dinner in town.I went at 7 was super jet-lagged and came back and crashed.
Well I was awoken around 3 am by a massive thunderstorm. The lights were flickering, I was a bit freaked out but figured at least there were other guests there in case of an emergency. I guess I finally passed out again. Around 8 am. KNOCK,KNOCK on my door. I open it to see Maria Pia holding out a cell phone.
"Andrea, Tua mama,il telefono" What? My mother? Si, Si, tua mama. I was confused! How did that woman get Maria Pia's cell number. I had given her my itinerary but I didn't even know Maria Pia's cell number.I take the phone still half asleep.
Ma?, she says, Ang? You never called, I was woried! I say, MOM, you're calling Maria Pia's cell phone, I'll call you back! What? Who's cell phone? Who's Maria Pia? ANDREA! LOL, I said, Mom, I will call you back from with my calling card.( no cell yet)
I apologized to Maria Pia, told her my mama was loco, then she offered to make me breakfast which was really a nuked croissant and a cappuccino. Over breakfast she said that she almost came back to the inn in the middle of the night during the storm. I asked why. She said she was worried about me, with the phone lines being down ( AHA! call was forwarded to her cell from the inn's main number, that's how mama Brody called). She said her husband said I would be fine , Andrea is from NYC, she's fine! I told her that was true, not a big deal, besides the other guests were there with me. Yeah, NO! No other guests! What? No other guests? Seems I was alone in that inn that night, good thing I did not know that, I wouldn't slept a wink.
Anyhoo, present day, we hiked the 1 1/2-2 hr. trail from Monterosso to Vernazza. this is one messed up trail. Seriously, not for faint of heart or those not in at least good physical condition. I personally don't really exercise that much, Robin does and even she was having trouble at some points. There are a gazillion stone stairs, It's so worth it but totally exhausting!
We finally got to Vernazza. the views stupendous and we were starved. It was about 3;30,the place was mobbed with tourists an all the restaurants were closed until 7 for dinner. Can you imagine? Only pizza places were open. Pissed we each grabbed a slice. I had my heart set on steamed mussels. It started raining again so we opted to take the train to the 3rd town. Off the train and took one look at the stairway that led to Corniglia. My legs felt like jello. I looked at Robin and asked , " You want to climb those stairs right now?" Nope!, You?, I answer nope! and we start the 40 minute much easier walk to Manarola.
We encountered all kinds of people along the way. Many times on the walkways you have to stop to let someonepass, it's that narrow. Next statements just from my experience that day. Americans, British, Australians, most polite, always stop, always say thank you when you move over for them, always smile. Italians will run you off the side of a cliff, GET OUT OF THEIR WAY! PRONTO!!!. Germans, I was suprised, we ran into alot they never moved to the side for you, never said thanks.
We got to Manarola expecting everything to be closed but no, restaurants were open AND they had steamers. Perfect way to end a day. The rain got harder, we sat down to eat, had a beer, steamers and some gnocchi and pesto. I LOVE THE PESTO! Decided to skip the last town and take the train from Manarola directly to La Spezia where we would change trains and arrive in SMN at 9:20.
I had gotten an email from Fodorite Ky Bourbon the night before saying she would be in Florence that night, one night only on her way to Amalfi Coast. I wrote we would try to stop by, but we were still damp from being rained on and cold and exhausted and so my apologies. Next time. Ok below the pix from CT. There are a boatload of them, had trouble editing. Also Robin's in almost every picture, and she says I'm in all her pix so we'll have to swap photos for our families and next time remember to switch cameras!
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/5Terre?authkey=P0NsQeuh_X0#
Hi Andrea
Wow, some of those paths are scary narrow, huh? But the views are certainly worth it.
I would have had to take that gray striped cat that was snuggled up in the straw home with me! Also that one from your last pics of Cortona that was asleep in the basket.
Looks like you and Robin are having a great time. I bet it's nice having the cooler weather after it's been so hot.
Johanna
Not only narrow but very steep. Cortona is really beautiful and the only time I was there it was raining also!
How nice to see another post/photos AND an appearance from Mama Brody. She is TOO much. I hope she and Papa B are visiting you soon? I can't imagine what she'll get up to but I look forward to hearing all about it plus I'd love her take on Franco!
I'm going to have to quit looking at your photos...my list of places I want to go just keeps growing and growing!
Thanks for the update...as always it was fantastic!
This has been wonderful to read...
Beautiful photos of Cinque Terre. It's true, it's a gorgeous place in any weather. Of course, all of the scenic shots are great, but as a former photographer, I was also taken by #111- your umbrella shot. Nice framing of the shapes and colors.
Paule
Nice shots indeed. I went to that part of Italy so long ago and the one memory that is imprinted on my brain is the overwhelming number of cats everywhere that would follow you with their eyes.
mvor's idea of paid blogs is interesting. You should consider it because your reports are fun (although I must admit that, as a man and a married one at that, I skip the details of massage etc) and well written specially since you are there for a long enough time period to further develop a reader base.
Really enjoying reading about your adventure.
Ooh, yes! I agree about the cats ComfyShoes. I (stupidly) decided to feed them some morsels of bread I had left over. There were only three cats to start with but many more came when I threw the bread for them. When it was all gone, I was in trouble! They looked at me with those eyes...I was seriously frightened! I just walked/hopped/ran away!

Andrea, I have been enjoying your stories. I, too, lived in Florence for a few months back in '03 and treasured every minute of it! I am dying to go back! So, THANK YOU for posting! BUT, you are thoroughly responsible for some unfinished projects at work and for making me stay much later than intended (I couldn't stop!)! Shame, shame!
Andrea, thanks again for your wonderful report and photos! Your daytrip experiences are great research for those of us who plan to visit Florence and take some excursions too! I had thought Cinque Terre would be too far so it's nice to know that it's a possibility.
Bravo....once again a real score!!
Thanks for the photo gallery...with an updated Bear photo..he seems to be slimming down...lol!
You & Robin look great...women on the move!!
So...what's been going on since we last heard from you?
Dang Andrea! I wish I had known about your hot dottore as I had my own dottore incident two days earlier in Siena. Perhaps I could have waited until Florence as my dottore at Siena Ospedale was not the least bit cute. The x-ray guys were cute though.
I did walk down your street to check out where your apartment was located. Great location! Is that really a discount wine store next door or just a tourist trap?
I didn't leave Florence until late afternoon on Monday as I wanted to shop a bit. I figured you would be at language/jewlery lessons. I've been to Florence several times, but still find things to do/see and never have enough time there. Perhaps in the spring I can get back and stay longer.
I'm really sorry I missed you Ky! Yes, it is a discount wine place and because we live upstairs he gives us better prices! The guy who owns it als ohas Bollywood movies you can borrow when you misplace your punta video card. And Yes, the location is great!Very central to everything.
Thanks everyone, been a busy week BUT I have some awesome pics and a review of the chianti tour moolyn recommended, am uploading photos now to picasa and will post them later today. Also Bologna and some fashion observations.
Hi laartista,
I'll probably be in Firenze this coming week on the 6, 7, and 8. I'll look to see if your email is posted here and will surely get try to say hello!
Bellastarr
The whole inappropriate question thing is just another cultural difference. I've lost count of the number of Americans who have asked me how much I earn. Yet for a Brit that is akin to asking for the size of your John-Thomas
Italians will want to know everything about you from a familial point a view and every time your body language says "how dare" you will appear to be stand offish and unfriendly. Go for it and tell what sort of men you like so he can check through his list of single friends
I'm a slacker and a sick one at that! Got myself one nasty head cold. I going totally American here and admitting the thing I miss most from my apt.I had back home is central air and heat. I just can't get tempature comfortable. Too hot, too cold I feel like one of Goldilocks bears. It's freakin freezing in this apartment!Other things I am missing while I'm sick: bitching to my mom every 1/2 hour, food delivery( specifically good won ton soup), an elevator and canned soup, campbell's chicken and stars to be exact.Actually I would take any chicken broth based soup at the moment.And an English muffin, none of those here.So this will be a quickie just a rundown and pics from Chianti. I have not finished uploading my fashion do and don't photos.
Anyhoo I took Mool's advice ( thanks again)and called Machiavelli chianti tours. For 15 E it's a whole day excursion. Now I'm not a huge fan of organized tours. I had only been on 3 before. One in Morocco to the desert, one in Thailand to river Kwai and also in Thailand Anthong National Marine Park. Other than that I try to steer clear, partly, no mainly I really don't like being on some elses schedule. That said, I have no car, rentals are kind of pricey for a day and there is NO WHERE to park in city center. So we figured how bad could it be.
Not bad at all especially for the price, actually can't be beat. You board a bus near the SMN station in a small piazza at 8:45 we left abot 15 minutes late. Got back around 6 pm. so it's a long day. 2 churches, 2 towns,2 shops, 1 lunch at a farm, coffee and dessert at a gelateria ( that's extra) and a stop at a winery, a total of 7 times on and off the bus and you have got yourself a great deal. My favorite part was definitely the vineyard, the Machiavelli vineyard. It was really cool, beautiful, have to admit did not care for their wine, can't win them all. The tour is run by a nice guy Marco, informative and accomodating. the requisite stops to local artisans where you are supposed to buy stuff, we did not ,but almost everyone else did. Lunch was meats and cheeses, breads, spreads and wine in a nice country setting with goats up on the hill. There were points in the day it dragged a bit but overall a good tour. Would recommend it and again especially because of the price. Most other tours I have seen start at about 70E for the day.It's a small group, maxes out at 30 I think we had 27.
Pix below, I need to make some tea on my stove that I have to light the pilot with a match EVERY SINGLE TIME I use it!Which actually reminds me of something funny the other day. Thurs. after Robin left for NY and I got home from class I saw an Ikea work slip on my coffee table. Now Ikea was supposed to be here 4 weeks ago to attach some hose that was flailing around our 3' sq. kitchen to something else in there. They never came, until last Thurs.
I walk into the kitchen and it looks like someone had cut a redwood down in there. saw dust everywhere AND the faucets were no longer attached to the wall, they were lying on the floor. OMG what the hell happened in here! I march right over to the laptop and start writing a ripping email to the landlord when I hear a buzzer. At the door is a young guy wearing an Ikea shirt, no English ( I know I'm in Italy) I quickly delete the email. He says he needs to finish in the kitchen, about 1/2 hour. 5 trips up and down the stairs and 3 hours later he is done. A half hour before he finishes I smelled gas, stove gas. I walk over and start sniffing my nose. He says yes, it's the gas, by accident he hit the knob and it was on spewing gas for about 20 minutes. Great!
So now, the crazy hypochondriac I have become starts imagining I will not awake from carbon monoxide poisoning. I open every window, which is probably why I'm sick come to think of it. So then about 15-20 min later I smell smoke, cigarette smoke. I had been working on the computer with my back turned toward him. I turn around and there he is, Mr. Ikea smoking a butt, standing next to the stove and says finito,ciao, he is done.Doesn't clean up, leaves me all the trash and splits.
Ok, so they don't ask permission to smoke in your apartment, they just light up. The good news was he didn't blow up, no nefarious amounts of bad gases floating around the apartment. Close all windows.
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/Chianti?authkey=t_NwA-Xa2qA#
Andrea, sorry you are under the weather but so happy you posted the latest installment and your photos of Chianti. I just love the cedars, I take tons of pictures of them. What is the baby in the tube? That was kind of creepy in a funny way.
Hi Andrea
Sorry you are feeling sick, thanks for posting the Chianti pics. Love the look on the orange kitty's face. He's one cool cat. More man purses!
So glad the Ikea guy didn't blow up your apartment.
Feel better soon,
Johanna
Andrea, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed the Chianti Coach Tour! I read about it on Trip Advisor so will share the link to your trip report there. It certainly seems like a great deal for people without cars, which is probably most of us, and it sounds like the lunch would be perfectly fine without the bread for a celiac like me.
It was very kind of you to check this out for all of us planning trips to Florence! Thanks for the great photos too!
My sister-in-law in Costa Rica has a glass fusion artist friend who is going to help women there set up a jewelry making studio next year. I mentioned that you are studying jewelry design and we wondered whether there could possibly be a fit. Please contact me if you think there might be. moolyn@hotmail.com
Aw, Andrea, I hope you feel better quickly.
I'm glad you had a good trip to Chianti, and I'm even happier Mr. Ikea didn't blow up your apartment!
Until your next installment...
Hi,
So sorry to hear about your cold. I hate them. I am living through you and loving it.
Thanks, Yipper
Andrea, I'm enjoying your report, your impressions, your photos. You two ladies look wonderful.
I see a book in the making!!!
Welcome back Lara and hello moolyn.
hmmmm chicken and stars...my favoite!
Is it allowed to ship some to you? I know this might sound strange but when I moved out of state my father used to feeze bread for me and mail it to me in Virginia because only Alabama had that brand of bread....you get used to eating certain things as your comfort foods i guess...but it's a thought...get your mom to send you some chicken and stars in case you get sick again.
well hun I hope you are feeling a bit better. make sure to drink plenty of liquids and get lots of sleep. Looking forward to your next post.
Amber
Andrea,
I have loved keeping up with your living in my favorite city in the world Firenze. And your pictures are great!!!
I am in the midst of planning a three month trip to Italy starting this coming April, one month, May will be spent in Firenze. Will you still be there then? If so, are you up to meeting with a fellow American? I will even bring you some Campbells Chicken and Stars, LOL.
Tom
Thanks e1 for the get well wishes. Sucks because I didn't go to classes yesterday or today. This cold has been going around the jewelry school past 2 weeks and I don't want to re-introduce it into the air. I think Laura may come by today with some cookies and maybe she can help my figure out the directions for the mushroom barley soup in a pouch. We'll see.
TR- Should still be here in April if all goes well, so stay in touch. I think my email is listed somewhere on here. Another fodorite is in town right now and will try to catch up with her too.
Funny story, the powers of Facebook. Sat. night I received a message from a woman in Crema Italy. She said she found my name in Syracuse Alum list saw I was living in Italy and that I was a mosaic artist. She said she too was an SU alum and ALSO a mosaicist. Would I like to meet up and talk tiles sometime. I thought, that's funny,A fellow SU alum, same year, living in Italy that's a mosaic artist? yeah definitely would. So I send a message back and add her to my friends list. She accepts the friend request.
I click on her name to see her profile and as I'm looking at her picture I realize OMG that's Arlene, a girl I was good friends with at school, we waitressed together at a 50's bar wearing cheerleader costumes and doing the jive on the hour. We had lost touch after graduating. I wanted to make sure so I send her a message asking if the last name she was listed under was her married name ( I didn't recognize it) and if her family was originally from Sri Lanka. She writes back Yes, I knew an Andrea Brody once. I write back and that would be me! Shut the F@$% up! So crazy. She said she didn't know it was me because I had dark hair and the andrea she knew was blonde. Blonde? I was never blonde! I did have those highlights that were so big in the 80's but never blonde. She said well then you had alot of highlights because I always remembered you as blonde. lol
Anyway we couldn't believe it, she has skype we talked for 2 hours that night. She had married an Italian guy moved to Denmark and has been living in Crema for 9 years. Facebook is wild! Anyhoo when I feel better we are going to meet up in Ravenna and then I'll be going to some charity auction she has a piece being auctioned at in Milan at the end of the month.
That is so neat....It's amazing who you can run in to on the Internet!
It's a small world after all.
Andrea...Great photos of Chianti!!
You two look hot...not just hot from the heat as in melting!!
6 degrees of seperation....it's always amazing to find connections!!
Thanks for your update...hope Mom has sent your soup!!
I'm also continuing to enjoy your adventures.
I hope you are feeling better. We always want Mom when we are ill . . .
Surely some Fodorite is headed to Florence and can take this poor girl a can of soup!
Sure! If she's able to wait until May...
I'm hoping to get there then, as I plan on being in Rome in early May for my birthday! And I cannot leave Italy without visiting the city that stole my heart...
Hi there,
Buon giorno, mi'amica!
I have been to Itay 10 times, speak Italian, and just can't get enough. I love that you have taken the plunge and moved. I love Florence-one of my favorite places. Your posts are fabulous and I am really enjoying seeing your adventures in my mind.
Your cat is the bomb! How cool you are for taking him along. We have an 18 lb cat named Valentino Lorenzo and I just had to giggle when I saw yours.
How long do you plan on living there? The next time I am there I plan on stopping by or meeting you for un cafe o forse un gelato. I am a writer and photographer and singer/musician, who only DREAMS of being a mosaic artisan.
Please keep us posted. This is such an amazing adventure you are having.
Buona fortuna! A piu tardi!
Stacy
any new updates? its killing me! lol
bm
Yes, Andrea inquiring minds want to know! How are things in Bella Firenze? (I don't know if that's grammatically correct, but it sounds good)
Hope you are feeling better!
Johanna
Hi Andrea, hope all is well and you will have new tales to share soon.
WOW. Whatta read! Now that I'm up to date, I have a new on-line novella! Thank you Andrea.
it's been a while since you last posted. hope all is will with you.
Has anyone heard from laartista???? Kind of worried about her. It's been a while.
No, I e-mailed her about two weeks ago and didn't get a response. We've e-mailed in the past so I don't think my e-mail went to spam. Perhaps she's had computer problems.
I had a nice dinner in Florence with Andrea and her friend Laura in mid October... I don't have a trip report ready yet, but thought I'd mention that here- she seemed just fine then!
Maybe she ran away with Lapo.
Johanna
Johanna, my sentiments exactly. Or some other hot Italian!
As we live vicariously through Andrea...
laartita, we mistchaI
Grazie a tutti! I am fine, and so sorry for not updating, Unfortunately for me my absence is not due to lapo or any other hot italian guy but instead just got busy and then involuntarily manslaughtered my 6 month old toshiba laptop with a glass of water. I now must frequent seedy internet points and it gets expensive so only online for about an hour or two a day to try to redo all my research that was lost and call my mom .I have a new laptop on the way, a pink gateway ( so cute). Have been keeping notes as I plan on recapping may funny tales and experiences since I last checked in. Went to London for the NFL @ Wembley, have had some interesting other stuff and have a bunch of pix to upload. So when I once again have my own computer I will bring this report up to date. Thanks again for the interest and sorry for the emails I did not return. Oh, and bellastar, was a pleasure, glad you got home safe!
So looking forward to reading your updates. Glad you are well.
laartista~ Thanks for checking in... we were worried about you
suze
Sounds like things are going well, except for the laptop. Glad to hear it.
glad you are safe. was wondering what hottie Italian you might have ran off with. Too bad though....maybe next week
Sooooo looking forward to the updates...I miss my late night reading lol.
Well, I'm another one who is happy to know you're alright!! Mah, sei un uccisore of PCs!!!
I'm going to be in Florence (again) in March. I'd love to meet you for a caffè macchiato one day.
Yvonne (Australia)
I'm taking it you don't have your computer yet
So nice to see you back on Fodors Andrea. Have been following this post for months and loving reading about your life there. Was worried about you there when you went silent.
We (my husband, I and our now two small kids) have travelled to Italy very often but we have not yet taken the kids to Florence. Might do so this summer. Whenever you can, pls do give me any advise on child friendly things in Florence - the kids are 5 and 9 years old.
Take care and God Bless
Deepa in Singapore
DeepaSingapore-
For your kids, you might want to consider the amazing Museum of Science (Museo di Storia della Scienza- Piazza dei Giudici 1) that we found out about on this board. It’s around the corner from the Ufizzi by the river. It contains Galileo’s telescopes, globes, instruments he used to measure the distance between planet, the lens that was used in which he discovered the moons of Jupiter…even the bone of his index finger.
Keep in mind, the Science Museum is under renovation so most of the exhibits are closed.
Thanks sandi and ellenem, The museum sounds like a great plan and hopefully the renovations would be over by June.
We are at that interesting crossroad on holiday planning where we now find that our interests (quaint towns, cobblestone roads, cafes, shops, slow coffees and wine etc.) do not seem to tie in with what the kids like. So I need to rethink destinations like Italy so everyone can be happy. So our trip will combine a stay at a nice hotel with gardens etc. in Tuscany but we do want to stay in Florence for a couple of days. Thanks again for your replies.
Ok, it's been almost 2 months since the last real update...you're killing us....absolutely killing us lol
Love your stories!
Is Florence magical this time of year?
I was there last year at this time (first week of Dec. last year). I don't remember it being any more magical than usual. I love Florence. I don't remember Christmas stuff if that is what you mean. Maybe the second week of Dec. has more.
Unless it's taken down right away, I was in Florence a day or 2 after Christmas in '04 and don't recall seeing anything in the way of holiday decorations....and we were staying in the B&B that overlooks Piazza della Signoria.
Back in business! Got my new pink gateway laptop, very cute with matching wireless mouse, I feel like I'm 12 again.So it's been about 2 months since a normal update and there is alot to tell so I'll rewind and give some highlights. First to the post whether Florence is more magical this time of year? If rain means magical then yes! Feels like it's been cold and rainy for months! Honestly it's like Seattle with a Duomo! There ARE x-mas lights up around the city as well as a bunch of x-mas trees, seems every piazza has one. A few x-mas kind of markets, the one in Santa Croce, a German take off with lots of German food ( which by the way is very yummy) and another on I think Via Nazionale walking away from the train station,off of Guelfa. Red and yellow tents with the standard stuff.
So I've pretty much been here by myself, Robin is hardly here, maybe 8-10 days a month. Good news is she pays her rent! Since I last posted have been to a bunch of appertivos, seen some bands,passed 3 levels of Italian class, had an election festiva, went to london, went to Crema, made some mosaics and parents came for 2 weeks so was in Venice and Rome( that's a report in itself!).
A night at Casa de la Pace:
Ok so back in October the the German kids I befriended from language class, 2 of them Alex and Philip work at a bed and breakfast type place outside the centro toward Scandicci. Philip had invited me and the 3 Mexican girls from Guadalajara (sp), one of which he is dating, and Julia for dinner. Philip is 21 going on 56, seriously, fountain pen, ascot and all. Anyway he said he would pick me and the girls up at the SMN station. He came with another guy he works with, from Albania but grew up here in Florence so fluent in Italian and constantly correcting my pronunciation which is a good thing! I was the first to the van so of course took the front seat which turned out to be a big mistake because this kid drove like a NYC taxi driver on crack! While waiting for the rest I ran across the street to get some cat litter and returned with my 7 kilo bag.We all piled into the van that took us to the very large, somewhat in need of tlc, but great if you like super rustic, villa on the outskirts of town. The grounds looked beautiful from what I could see in the dark. Perched on a hill looking down on Florence surrounded by olive groves.
Once inside there was a long table set for dinner. Besides the caretakers and this other mystery couple I was the oldest one there by 20 years, which did not stop the hormone raging Elidor from Albania from hitting on me all night. Hey, buddy, I could be your mom, back off! Any 42 year old would be flattered.I was the only one who brought something. When I was younger my mom always told me you never go to a house without bringing something. If there are children you bring something for them. This lesson was not taught to the others. I had picked up a bag of homemade biscotti.
The head of the house was kind of surly, did not like me at first but I think it was more I was the only American and he thought I only understood and spoke English. By the way, no longer the case my Italian is coming along! He eventually warmed up to me. There was another even older couple, not sure what their role was but they were very nice. We sat down to a very rustic family style dinner of salad, some kind of meat, still not sure, bread and risotto. Of course wine and for dessert chocolate cake and the biscotti.So the food was not great but the company was
After dinner Alex and Julia( also from Germany is now Bear's Au Pair) showed me around the house. Impressive in size to be sure but could use a bit of sprucing up. There was a beautiful chapel in the basement with an awsesome collection of crosses from all over.A few hours later after dinner Magda arrived, a Polish girl who had worked at the house but recently moved downtown for University. Soon after the 8 under 25 and I would pile back into the van for the ride back to centro with a detour to Fiesole to take some photos of Firenze in lights.As I was walking to the van the older man ran out ( he had changed my name to Andraina, because Andrea is a boys name) Andraina, una domanda! He wanted to know if I was voting for Obama. Of course I was! At which time I got a big hug!!
For about 6 weeks October til around mid November every Wed. night I would meet this crew of kids at a place called Kitch the pub, for the best by far food wise appertivo in town.Have since taken Laura by there who agrees they put on a nice spread. Afterwards we would go listen to a band at a place called Be-Bop one of the few live music clubs in Florence just around the corner from my apartment. Thing I like about Be-Bop is all ages go there and you don't feel over the hill at all. Interestingly enough I don't feel that way around the kids either, probably because they don't see me that way. Sunday and Wednesday nights is an acoustic show with the 2 owners, they are quite good play everything from 60's to today. Thursday nights extremely loud,you could go deaf from a terrible Oasis cover band. I did see an amazing Police cover band there one night with Laura. The guys in the band were in their 50's, the crowd was really ecclectic, I think the band is called Roxanne would definitly go see them again.
I have not seen the kids as much over the past month. Philip has gotten serious with Miriam from Mexico and Julia and Alex are together, they are the cutest couple. They watch Bear and stay here whenever I'm out of town. Altough I just found out when I came back from Roma on Wed. That they are both leaving Italy for good next week ( more on That later). Sucks, now I must find a new kitty sitter for Bear when I go to Bali in Jan. I think Philip mentioned he would do it.
Pix from that night and at a few appertivos
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/TheKids?authkey=n4LgYgG4oe8#
Bellastar came to town:
So since I moved here I have been contacted by a few Fodorites who have come to town. It's nice to meet up with people so when Bellastar sent an email we set a time to meet. I invited Laura to join. We made plans to meet in front of Cafe Za Za in the Piazza Mercato Centrale, it was near to her hotel and my apartment too. It's always interesting meeting people from Fodors who you only know by a screen name. I actually walked along side her on a street leading to the piazza and something made me stop and say Bellastar? Yep it was her.
Laura met us soon after and we walked to a small cafe on Via Guelfa that I sometimes went to after class for a cafe. We sat there for a while having a cocktail and chatting. We then decided to get something to eat. I had been overdosed on Italian food since September so we headed over to one of my new favorite restaurants Diones, awesome Greek food and just a few blocks away. We chowed, and drank and laughed and it was a really nice night, a lot of fun and great meeting her!
The NFL in London :
Some background off subject, sorry. When I was in college at Syracuse one of my bestest friends was this guy Doug. He played football for S.U. an offensive tackle, he is 6'5" and weighed about 300 lbs. I am 5'2" and back then was maybe 100 lbs soaking wet. My parents loved him and when my dad met him sophmore year they got along famously. So much in fact, that by suggestion of my dad, Doug became my personal bodyguard at school. Not good for meeting guys to have a 6'5" 300 lb guy questioning them as soon as they said hi! Anyway we remained the best of friends until a few years after school. I don't remember exactly what happened, he was playing for the Dolphins and I was living in FLA. and one night with 2 other very good friends there was an incident involving the throwing of a chicken wing at his head and a really nasty arguement and we had a huge falling out and never spoke again for 17 years until this past April.
I got a call in April from a mutual friend, my closest girl friend from growing up, her and her husband, been together since we were 11 and they are 2 of my closest friends. Doug called her husband, he had heard some news about an ex-boyfriend of mine from college. Terrible news, this boyfriend who I had dated on and off for about three years and lost touch with had committed suicide. It was awful, and devastating and I picked up the phone and called Doug. It did not seem like 17 years had passed. We apologized to each other, he told me he was married, 3 kids and the offensive line coordinator for the Saints. I told him I was moving to Barcelona ( funny how things change) and he told me they were playing at Wembly in October I should come to the game he would love to see me and introduce me to his wife. I told him I'd be there!
Fast forward. It was 3rd week of October.Robin had left on the 2nd and due back on the 27th. I sent Doug an email asking if they had gone to London yet. He wrote back no, last weekend of October, game on the 26th would love for me to come. I booked the flight with Ryan Air ( which SUCKS) paid 250 US cause it was kind of last minute and called Robin to say I'd be in London when she returned. Well she wanted to go too. So she would end up flying into London and meeting me there.
Good to hear from you. You really look like a kid yourself in those photos!
The way I see it, hanging out with younger folks either makes you feel young again or older than sin. Sounds like you're looking in the right direction.
Hi Andrea
Glad you're back in business with your computer. Sounds like you are having fun. Liked the pics of you and the kids.
Johanna
So I got Julia to watch Bear for the weekend and took a 7 am bus from Florence to Pisa airport for a 10 am flight to Stansted. The bus is 8E one way and is faster than the train. Since arriving beginning of August this was my first time leaving Italy. Since I had come in on my US passport I wanted to get stamped going out and would return with me new Hungarian passport. Flight was quick like 2 hours but really Ryan Air sucks,if I had paid 60 bucks rt I'd chalk it off to you get what you pay for. But since I didn't pay 60 bucks, I'll just say again they suck! If it weren't for the bulkhead and my friend xanax there could have been a major panic attack in the making. That's why I paid 10E extra each way for priority boarding and you should too. Boarding a Ryan flight is like being in the middle of running with the bulls in Pamploma! Utter confusion!

Pix below
Landed at Stansted and used my Hungarian passport for the first time, got in line for EU went right through, it was great. Bought a bus ticket to London center for I think 16 L RT. That weekend the exchange rate was around 1.54 I think so London to me was a bargain. I had gotten a room literally the night before on Priceline because I've just been so busy, I mean lazy! I got a room at the Copthorne Tara Hotel in Kensington for 100 US per night 130 w/ tax. A steal for London IMO. I got off at Oxford street by accident ( I really think it was a subconcious urge to go shopping) so had to grab a cab to the hotel.When I arrived Robin had already checked in.Is the Copthorne a fantastic hotel, NO, but is it a fantastic hotel for 100 US per night, YES! Location is good, just off Kensington High street, I will say the bed was super comfy which was good considering my bed in Italy is a NIGHTMARE! And the best part was a real shower with the shower head high on the wall with excellent shower pressure. My shower in Italy is hand held and trickles like a bad leak. A quick unpack and call to Doug to meet up for dinner. He originally suggested we meet at 5 for dinner because he had a coaches meeting at 8. I laughed at him. 5? are you serious? I've been living in Italy I eat lunch at 5! We set to meet at 9:30 at his hotel. In the meantime me and Robin had some shoppin to do.I had been really controlled in Italy for 3 months, but I considered this a mini vacation which means 2 things, EAT & SHOP!
OK, I was never a huge fan of London, been many times, never caught on UNTIL this trip. I may have to move to London when my lease is up. Don't get me wrong I really love Italy and Florence but I've decided I need a bigger city. Just the city mouse in me. So in June when my apartment lease comes to an end, financially and God willing I will move to another city. In contention, the big three London, Paris, Rome!
We took the tube to Oxford street. I saw when I got off the bus a very, very crowded store called Primark, near to Marble Arch and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about! Now I know, everything is under 20L, with most under 10L and not crap quality, some real cute stuff. Many bags later and 85L I got 7 sweaters, a few tank tops, pj's, scarf and gloves and a ski vest! SCORE!!!!!!!!!! Robin was just as successful. With our many Primark bags we head over to Starbucks, I had been going through withdrawl since arriving in Italy and I was shaking with anticipation of my Grande Vanilla Skim Latte! It did not disappoint and I would have a total of 7 over the course of 2 days. Back to the hotel to nap and get ready for dinner. I hadn't seen Doug for 17 years and didn't want to look like pooh, I needed extra time for primping and would wear one of my new purchases.
So Doug was staying at a fancy shmancy place. Afterall the New Orlean Saints players aren't going to stay in any hotel. He was staying at The Grosvenor House. I wanted to be staying at the Grosvenor House too, but at the moment I'm unemployed so no Grosvenor House for me. Nice place to visit though. We arrived around 9:40. I was nervous, it was weird, would he recognize me? I knew I'd recognize him, I mean how many huge guys hang around a hotel lobby? Alot it seems, a lobby filled with huge guys, players and coaches and then a huge arm swoops me up in a bear hug! We laughed so hard. He hurried us out the door the place we were going for dinner stopped serving at 10 and were holding a table for us. I've been trying to find the card for the place where we ate, left a message for Robin maybe she remembers, very well known old pub, I want yo say Guine or some thing like that, anyway food was authentic pub food with a high end twist. Twas delicious and we laughed all through dinner catching up and reliving our college days over steaks and 2 bottles of wine. Ever the gentleman he treated and over dessert Doug handed me an envelope with 4 game tickets where the team families sit and 4 passes to a private tailgate party. Sucked that 2 tickets went to waste, the game was pretty much sold out. We went back to his hotel and hung out in the lounge area and a few more drinks, said We'de meet him there after the game and he would take us to the players party if they won, if they lost we would go co-miserate at some dive bar.
So Sunday, we got a late start and would never make it to the tailgate party BUT we would have fish and chips! Woo Hoo! It's one of my favorite foods. So in Italy the trains strike like once a week for a few hours, in LOndon on the weekends they get cancelled or stop running a whole bunch of train problems. It took us almost 2hours to get to Wembley from our hotel.Luckily we were only a few minutes after kick off. I hadn't been to a football game in I don't know how long, they are FUN!
Wembley Stadium is quite the sight. I guess for soccer loving folk like Mike from Ireland, Robin's boyfriend, it's considered hallowed ground. It was packed, not sure if every American visiting was there or not but there were alot of British. Seems American Football is popular. It was an exciting, good game and thankfully the Saints beat the Chargers! By the time we got there everyone was already in the stadium, getting out was another story. We left our seats with 2 minutes left, getting out of the actual stadium was not so bad, but once out they funnel you to this one tube stop down a concourse type street that you can't get off of even if you wanted to. Then the cops on horses stand in a line perpendicular to the street , you walk between the horses and every so often they turn those horses to the side and it's like being stuck in rush hour on the 405 except you have no car to protect you. I felt like a sitting target and terrorism wise I don't think this is a good system. It made me very uncomfortable until I actually got on the train. We got off the wrong stop and walked what seemed a few miles to Grosvenor House.Luckily there was a Starbucks open
We got back to the hotel before the team did so we just had a drink and waited for Doug. We knew they had arrived back when you could hear people cheering in the lobby. I turned around to see Doug standing there. He wanted to get cleaned up, call the Mrs. and he would meet us back there. When he returned we went to the players party. It was a private party of about 200, looked like a wedding. Huge buffets of food and large tables of 12 in a ballroom. He told us no pictures, no autographs. That was fine with me because I had no idea who anyone was. I do know I was introduced to a bunch of people, very tall people! It had been a long day I had an 8 am flight which meant I had to leave my hotel at 5:30 am and Doug also had an early flight. We said our goodbyes, promised to keep in touch. He told me a secret when I saw him but now that the news is out I can say Congrats to him for being named head coach of our Alma Mata Syracuse University's Orangemen!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/LondonSend?authkey=QHYTZ1LqwtY#
YAAAAY!!! She's back! So much fun to follow your adventures.
Great photos, too - you DO look like one of the kids! Also, love the shot of you and Doug (and you do look great).
Paule
What a great trip to London! Go Saints!!! New Orleans is like a second home to me. In fact, I'm driving over for the day on Tuesday.
Johanna
Hi Andrea! It's great to see you back!
You must have spent some time in LA if you know what "rush hour on the 405" is like.
Oh, and if you are going to leave Florence, I vote Rome for your next stop. It would be a shame for all that Italian you've learned to go to waste.
Ciao Andrea, what a joy it was to read your post today and I so enjoyed the photos you posted. And you do not look any older then the "kids"..honest! Having so many friends in Florence I so enjoyed your descrptions and again also your photos.
Your time in London sounded like so much fun and I am glad your buddy and you made up..a chicken wing to the head can cause a problem I guess, lol. Isn't life strange?
Best wishes to you along with an early Merry Christmas wish.
Thanks e1. Did spend some time in LA Kristina for 3 years back in 98, sister lives there so am unfortunately too familiar with the nightmare traffic!
Robin's nutty friend visits and one Election Festiva grande!:
So Monday morning I had to leave the hotel at 5 am for a 8 am flight back to Pisa. Robin was flying in later in the day on British air mainly because she was still bringing my stuff back and would be way over the luggage allowance for one of the cheapy airlines. I mentioned before that she has not been here much. When we were first looking at apartments I wanted to take a one bedroom less in rent and thought she could use the sleeper sofa when she was here,thinking she would only be here a week or so a month. We had many disagreements about this but she assured me she would be here at least 2.5- 3 weeks every month and wanted her own room. Well guess what, Bear basically has his own room that Robin pays for. Do I have a problem with that? Nope, not as long as she keeps paying her part of the rent. What I do have a problem with is her having nutty friends visit during the short time she is here. Afterall we ARE attempting to start a business together and as she is always flying when in the states ,her time here is supposed to be devoted to work so I am not stuck doing everything. Look ,I'm not talking out of school everything I write has been said in the open, just regurgitating (sp)it.
So she had told me back in September 2 of her friends and her brother wanted to come when she was here at start of November. I put the kabash on that! How do you plan on working with 3 people visiting you? So the other 2 fell off and one, her friend Heather was still coming. I said I don't care as long as you don't have to babysit her and do your portion of the work. She assured me, no, she knows I have work to do, she can sightsee on her own , she is just crashing here, I'm here to work screech.............. NOT! Basically we get along great BUT I can be high strung at times and we both insist we are always right so there is an occassional butting of the heads.this time I was right.
We had planned on having an Election party. One, to introduce our young foriegn friends to American politics and 2 for some of the American students from our jewelry classes, and 3 beacuase I love election night! .We planned on having a real American BBQ. Her friend was to arrive on Sat. so we had all week to get work done and we did. And then Saturday rolls around. Her friend arrived around 1 and she spent the day showing her around,while I worked, ok no biggy, I'm not a cold hearted slave driver. That night I had made plans with Laura to go to lucca to see a friend of hers blues/jazzy kind of band and invited Robin and the friend. Laura drove. So while driving I hear the conversation in the back seat and Robin saying " so Heather, this week we'll go to Pisa and Lucca and Cinque Terra and what else should we do?" Are you shitting me? Wha? Did the conversation we had go in one ear and out the other? Oh, it sure did! But I kept my mouth shut, then.
The band was fab, I love when foriegn bands cover American music sing English perfectly and don't speak a word of it. It's learned phonetically. Anyway it was a fun night but we left kind of early because Heather was tired from her trip. We made plans to meet Laura at Angels at noon on Sunday for American Brunch. BTW, don't know if I mentioned it before but Angels has an amazing brunch. Eggs Benny and all, always packed, make reservations or get there before 1. After brunch Robin says I'm going out with Heather, what are you doing, Me?, I'm going back to work on the jewelry. Oh, well I'll be back in a few hours,and help you, fast forward almost 8 pm. See I knew this would happen which is why I suggested no friends visit, only family until after we had our samples made in Bali in January. I was pissed and it showed and was immature about it and basically did not talk to her until Monday night. It was either that or letting loose in front of the friend.
Monday night we went to Essalunga, the big supermarket to get food for the party on Tues.night. Robin had brought back a few packs of Saberet hot dogs from NY, baked beans, bbq sauce, mac and cheese,ranch dressing, brownie mix,real hamburger buns and hot dog buns, grey poupon mustard,stuff that is hard to get here or really expensive here. Her friend shopped for herself as she is a vegetarian who preaches the evil of eating meat all the while buying leather jackets at the market. When we got back that night Robin and I had a heated discussion, we took it to the terrace. She saw my point and promised she would get her share of the work done that week. Fine.
Tuesday night was our election party, set to start at 11 pm and go til we had a victor. I spent Tues. afternoon after class searching for a small bbq, was successful and returned home with a bbq and coals. We made hamburgers, hot dogs, macaroni salad, Julia came by early and made German potato salad. We also made Mac and cheese, fluffer nutter sandwiches ( which were the biggest hit), chocolate chip cookies, french onion dip, we had lots of wine. We had invited all the kids from my language class plus Veronica my teacher w/ her husband and 2 girls from my jewelry class. We somehow ended up with 40 people! The Mexicans, brought an additional 6-7 friends, Alex from Jewelry brought about 8, Philip brought a few stragglers. Luckily we had enough food. Suprisingly the people who brought the most friends with them did not bring some much as a beer.
It was a really fun night, I grilled for the first 2 hours in the rain on the mini terrace,lol, then was all over the election coverage. I love, love, love politics and especially all the pundits. Kind of hard explaining the electoral college but everyone was really interested. Around 3 am most people left, except Julia, Alex,and Philip. Heather had gone to bed. We pulled out the sofa and the five of us in a row lay there watching the results come in. They all fell asleep but I was intent on hearing the winner announced and at around I think 5:15 am or so cnn projects the winner OBAMA!!!! Hey, wake up e1, we have a winner. we stayed up to watch the acceptance speech.History made! The next day Philip and I had our level 2 test in Italian, I was hoping I would pass being exhausted and all. We all got up around 10 Robin made pancakes, I took my test, passed with an 80 out of 100, I'll take that. Next, someones friend gets really weird!
Some pix
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/ElectionFestiva?authkey=pV3d00Urbb0#
<Next, someones friend gets really weird!>
Oh, this should be good!
LOVED your CNN graphics!
What a way to spend the election night - there's nothing like watching a dramatic event unfold in the US from outside the country.
I know, not only was I out of the country on 9/11, but I remember Nixon's resignation! I was travelling with a BF and staying at someone's apt in Glasgow, and we spent 12 hours watching old Nixon tapes (remember Checkers?) before finally watching him announce his resignation.
Keep up the great stories!
Paule
It was really cool seeing history unfold in the US from here, but I kind of wished I was there that night. It was interesting because the next few days any time anyone knew I was American they would hug me or shake my hand and say congrats. If nothing else this election will help restore the US image overseas. They really love Obama over here.
h, they rule the earth, powerful men they are, and they will get rid of Obama just like Kennedy!

Wed. comes and after our talk Robin told her friend she would have to do work that day and suggested her friend take a day trip by train to Arezzo. We loved Arezzo and thought it would be a nice day for her. So we actually, eek did not get that much done because we were so tired from the party, my oops. So here comes craziness. The friend comes back around 6 pm hysterical, crying her eyes out, she was alone all day it wasn't fun, if she knew she would be alone she wouldn't of come! Wha? Robin says, I told you I was not going to be able to do stuff with you, and Heather says, no you said you'de be in class but that we would hang out. It was all weird because Robin had no classes. I think she probably did tell the girl they would be hanging out because why would she come to visit?
I thought it was strange that a 33 year old woman would be hysterical about spending a few hours on her own. I travel for weeks on my own, I guess for some people it's difficult. In any case now I felt bad. And Robin was like I told her, so I just said, just go with her the next few days, I feel bad for her. I knew this would happen, just knew it.
So that night we are sitting around and her friend starts talking about the Illuminati. The who? The what? She says oh yeah, the Illuminati!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illuminati
I'm probably going to hell for making fun and repeating this convo, but I'm writing a non fiction report so here goes.
H
Me: A conspiracy theory,like Free Masons, Oh I see.
H: No, not a conspiracy theory, it's the truth, everyone knows it, everyone knows about them, it's all true!
Me: Well I don't know about it and over to google I go. (Robin says I google to prove her wrong, but I always google to prove I'm right
Yep, a conspiracy theory. OK, I don't have a huge problem with that, look I believe in ghosts, and tarot cards and alot of unexplainable things. What I don't do is say that are fact! It's what I believe and also believe it could not be true. Just don't know. But then the conversation takes an even more bizarre turn.
She starts taliking about this friend of hers who is a healer and can actually see inside your body to tell whats wrong. Ok, maybe, fine.
Me: Really? How did she know she had this ability
H: Well, she's part Alien.
STOP THE PRESSES! I shoot Robin a look and she is just stunned mouth hanging open and shrugging her shoulders.
Me: Heather, what are you saying? Your friend is part alien? Are you serious?
H: ( with the straightest face)Oh yeah, she is. I know it sounds strange ( an undersatement) but it's true! She can shape shift, she's a shape shifter. She can change her shape to be whatever she wants.
OK now I'm thinking she's screwing with us, here's the scary part, SHE WASN"T!
Me: Heather! People cannot just change their DNA structure whenever they want, you can't be serious?
H: I've seen it with my own eyes, I've seen her do it! ( Now she was getting pissy at me)
Me: (I start laughing couldn't help it) No, what happened is she hypnotized you into believing that's what you saw.
H: No Andrea! You just are unable to comprehend it, It's ok, alot of people don't have the brain capacity to comprehend such things! Like the fact there are Aliens living among us and people from the future who are here to observe! You're just too narrow minded!
Me: And you're a FREAKSHOW!
Needless to say Robin was horrified, Heather was pissed I didn't believe about her shape shifting friend and went to bed. I looked at Robin w/ a WTF face and she was just I am sorry I had no idea she was so nutty. And there in lies the problem. You can't call everyone friend. If any of you read my Thailand report with another one of her crazy friends she invited! I don't use friend lightly, I know alot of people but they are not all friends and I certainly would not invite people on vacation or to sleep under my roof that I kind of know. Robin says she was not always like that. Well, that girl is like that now, and she was freaking me out! I told Robin I don't care if you do no work next few days just keep her out of here!Heather left a day early, has put a friend request in over at facebook, just can't accept. Robin went back on the 12th Nov. and would be returning on Dec. 3 for 9 days.
Bear has a kitty emergency:
The weather here for half of October to a few days ago has for the most part been awful! There had been a few really bad windy days and on one such day a Friday, Bear was literally scared shitless and pooped on himself. In 10 years this cat has never gone anywhere but in the litterbox, but this day all over himself. I wasn't sure if he was afraid or sick or what, but he is my baby and I freaked. I texted Laura. She was very helpful and supportive. Thing is he is a huge heavy cat and getting him to a Vet would not be easy.Especially with 4 flights of stairs. Here in Italy the housecall is huge so with one frantic phonecall to emergency veterinary services Dottoressa Catarina arrived.
A young Italian Vet walked in with her doctor bags and I went to drag Bear from under the bed. Now they don't see cats like Bear everyday, so after the mandatory, Che Bello, molto grande, bellisimo gatto exclamations I was assigned to pin down my nearly 20 lb, not too happy cat while she examined him complete with the thermometer up the ass! Poor Bear, seems he had a tummy infection, so a shot of antibiotic and she was on her way. A note: Bear takes 5 mg Tapazol 2x daily for is overactive thyroid. In the US I paid 80$ for 120 pills from the vet. I have since gotten is prescription filled here at the regular Farmacia because it's people medicine and for 100 pills I pay 4 Euro! Price for a housecall including meds 50 Euro.
When you get back to the states, try getting the generic version (methimazole) instead of the brand name. You will likely get it for $4 per month.
Ah, Robin and her "friends". Yeah, I remember that Thailand report. She knows how to pick them, doesn't she?
Poor baby, Bear. I love that you can get the mobile vet there so cheap. Here, I know of one, but a visit is probably something like $200 (just a guess).
Glad to hear Bear is OK. kybourbon, you're definitely right about generics being much cheaper. But Andrea's right too about how much less expensive health care is in Europe. Two years ago I was in Barcelona with my sister in law when she sprained her ankle. Once we determined it was just sprained (we're both nurses so we were pretty sure it wasn't broken) we decided she could get by the next two days till we went home with just an ace bandage and some kind of crutch or cane. The hotel staff sent me to a pharmacy and I got a really nice aluminum crutch and an ace bandage - for €9! At first I thought she said €90 which is about what I'd expect to pay here in the US.
The day my laptop died:

It was Sat. after that friend of Robins left. It was probably bad karma for laughing at her. I don't know what happened but I tripped hit the table a glass of water spilled on my 6 month old laptop. DEVASTATING! I tried to revive it, I did what you are supposed to do, but alas it seemed that my spill resistant keyboard was not spill resistant at all. It was Saturday and there was no emergency help to be had. There is no Geek Squad in these parts. I awoke Sunday morning and was suprised when my computer turned on. Only one problem some keys were not working. But was able to get online and I thought ok, I can get a new keyboard they aren't that expensive. Monday morning my glee turned to despair when once again it did not work, never did come back to life. I tried everything, ran it to a pC store but the water had gotten to the motherboard, it was gone for good and I would be disconnected for weeks until the parents visited. I could have bought one here but all the software is in Italian and with the exchange rate and all it was cheaper to buy it in the States and have them bring it with them.
I frequented a few different places for internet.My favorite was Italian Point on the same street as the Academia but walking toward Duomo. It's clean and bright and most of all Salvatore at the front desk in the morning was helping me with my Italian. I'd stop in on my way to class to check my emails. Every morning I go to class with my Starbucks tumbler filled with coffee. It's basically like having AMERICAN plastered across my forehead but I don't care, I like my coffee tumbler. Salvatore was so intrigued by this and kept asking me about the tumbler. He said iTalians like to enjoy their cafe. I said well this way you can enjoy it for many hours. This seemed to appeal to him in some exotic coffee kind of way. I told him my parents were coming to visit and I would ask them to bring one.
So I went online found the ones that look like the Starbucks cups, we had 2 but not as nice, plain ones, none like that, one was MIA so we needed a new one. I asked mom to pick up 2 for me. When I went last week to give Salvatore his tumbler he was so elated it was kind of funny. The fact I actually kept my word and also that he now had a tumbler. He asked me how does it work, lol, I told him hot or cold, showed him how to work the top, it made his day! I know it's an Italian cardinal coffee sin!
A week of mosaicing and an unfortunate/fortunate event:
So I think I wrote about my friend from college Arlene who found me through Facebook and she is also a mosaic artist and living in Crema. Anyhoo she and I talk quite frequently now and she decided to have a pre x-mas mosaic appertivo Thanksgiving weekend Sunday.She would invite a whole bunch of people and we could sell mosaics. She would put hers there and I could bring mine. One problem I had none. So the search for supplies in Florence began and was not an easy task.
I had a bunch of large blank wood picture frames from Ny and my glass cutter but that was it. You would think in a town like Florence stained glass would be easy to find. Nuh Huh! Some plain cathedral glass but nothing of color and what was here was super duper expensive. Art supplies in general are a fortune here compared to the States. After many hours of googling I found a small stained glass shop in Scandicci that looked like it had what I needed.
Glass is heavy and I have a bum shoulder so I asked Laura if she would come with. Actually she drove which was good because she also played translator. My Italian is not good enough yet to inquire about glass and such. Turns out this glass shop was more a working studio for a stained glass artist, she did straight stained glass and some fused stuff. She was extremely nice and helpful and sold me a few small sheets, but I needed more. She gave me the name and number of her supplier who is basically the supplier for the area.
In an industrial warehouse on the outskirts of Florence I found a glass supplier. When I walked in I thought I heard angels sing AHHHHHHHHHH! They had Spectrum and Bullseye and Kokomo and Wismach, I even saw a ew sheets of Youghigany and I had hit the jackpot. One caveat, the prices were CRAZY! Well compared to what I paid through my wholesaler in the States. About 100 E later I was stocked up, next to hit the bead store.
In addition to the bead store I also found a lumber store to cut lumber to mirror sizes I wanted. Then another field trip to Leroy Merlin, dragged Laura with again. Leroy Merlin located at the gigli shopping Center about 20-30 minutes outside Florence is easily gotten to by a Caph Bus, ticket office on Nazionale before you hit the Micky D's across from SMN Station. There is also a Media World there and a bunch of other stores. I LOVE Leroy Merlin, it's like a Home Depot( my fav of all stores), Bed Bath and Beyond rolled into one. I was able to get clear glass, grout, paint, brushes and straight edge razor blades! I spent that week mosaicing, I hadn't mosaiced in nearly 4 months and was afraid I may have lost my mojo, I didn't
The day after my glass field trip to Scandicci, it was a Saturday, Laura and I made plans to hang out, maybe see a movie. Instead we spent the day lightly shopping and bar hopping ended up having tapas at Salmanca , but skip the mojitos they suck go with the Sangria and Paella is very good.
http://www.salamanca.it/
and ending the night with seeing a Police cover band at bee-bop. During the day we met over at Internet Train on Via Guelfa, headed over to Sephora and then I grabbed a piece of pizza at a small pizza place on Duomo square next to the store on the corner of the street where the body shop is. Their pizza is great and I will make sure to post the name. We walked over to the Body Shop because I wanted some tools for a pedicure, I had just bought some really cool blue nail polish at Sephora. That's when the following happened,the perfect story which I used for my passato prossimo and imperfetto exercizi in Italian class that coming Monday. I cannot take full credit, Laura helped me with the grammer.( there may be a few errors) But the following is the main event of that day.
Sabato sera ero fuori davanti La Body Shop in vicino il Duomo. Stavo mangiando un pezzo di pizza, con salami.
Mentre stavo asspendando per mia amica, ho sentito una goccha sulla mia teste. Ho pensato, ma uchellino cagato sulla mia teste?
Allora, mia amica e' tornata e ho detto, " Laura, uchellino cagata sulla mia testa?" Sono girata e lei ha detto, " SI, c'e la merta nei tuoi capelli!"
Allora, Laura e' andata in um bar per un fazzoletto, Lei ha detto, " un picione ha fatto la caca nei capelli di mia amica!"
La signorina ha detto, " Oh, Buona, Buona Fortuna!, Prendo un fazzoletto con un po acqua. Ho detto grazie mille mentre sto ancora mangiare mia pizza!
Needless to say, my essay went over with lots of laughter and was way more interesting than writing about what I looked like when I was little!
Translation in next installment although I'm pretty sure most here know Italian.
Next up a trip to Crema
It's wonderful to have you back posting your adventures and misadventures! We've all missed living vicariously through your day-to-day experiences in Florence.
I need the translation, Andrea, so hurry back! By the way, while my daughter was in Rome, she needed a new laptop and her boyfriend shipped a new one to her. Boy, was that expensive, and it got held up in Italian customs. You got yours the right way.
Laartista, know how I am enjoying your report, and so happy that bear will be ok.
Hey Thanks you all. Suki- they looked into shipping it and it was 180 US w/out duty and I had heard horror stories about customs so yes, it made more sense to wait.If they hadn't been coming I probably would have bought one here.
The translation is a little bit condensed:
Saurday evening I was outside the Body Shop eating a piece of pizza with salami.
While I was waiting for my friend I felt a drop on my head. I thought, did a bird just shit on my head?
When my friend returned I said, : Laura, did a bird shit on my head?"
I turned around and she said," Yep, you have crap in your hair".
She went into a bar and told the girl that a pigeon had crapped in her friends hair. The girl said, Oh, that's really good luck! I'll give you a napkin with some water on it. I said thanks a lot while still eating my pizza.
It was really funny, I have been crapped on before, not here though. At very first I thought an air conditioner in a window then I remembered where I was. And afterward, when I looked up I saw that little bird on the ledge right above my head, I pointed him out to Laura. I could swear he was looking down at me and bird laughing! I kept thinking of that scene in Under the Tuscan Sun where she is buying the house and the old woman needs a sign and then a bird craps on Diane Lane's head. I'm still waiting for my Buona Fortuna!
Hi Andrea
Maybe you'll be buying a villa soon, you never know.
Glad Bear is feeling better. How cool to have a vet that makes house calls. How did an inside cat get a tummy infection? My cat (Buddy) is indoor/outdoor, and is always getting into trouble. I tell him all the time that if he'd just stay indoors, life would be better. I guess maybe not.
By the way, my dog Gracie is on thyroid pills, Thyrosin, and they cost $10 for 100 pills.
Johanna
Andrea, thanks for your continuing report, it is so enjoyable to read about your life on a day to day basis. I'm glad Bear is feeling better too.
Ha, I'll have to show this thread to my mother. Whenever we pass by Eglise St Germain des Pres, she remembers the time, on one of our first trips, when a pigeon pooped on my sleeve. Not a light drip as from an air-conditioner, but a loud, hard hit! Until reading this, I didn't know that's supposed to bring good luck, but maybe it's true-- I had no clue at the time that, less than 3 months later, my long-time dream of moving to NY would be fulfilled.
Glad that Bear is better. He did look a bit under the weather in the election party photo.
Thank you for sharing your stories with us.

I also love politics, pundits and voted for Obama -- wasn't it a great night?
And may I vote for Rome?
~mebe
Ohhhhh the updates! So glad to have you back!
as for R's friends....all I can say is NUT JOB! You did nothing wrong by laughing at her...should have gotten a straight jacket out for the girl!
Buon Natale e felice Anno Nuovo cara laartista!
Gracie- yes, is great the vet makes housecalls but people doctors do too here, the housecall is very popular.

Thanks Sea Urchin
Mademoisellefifi- see bird crap= move to NY, twas Buona Fortuna!
Mebe- it was a great night and I got goosebumples when he did his acceptance speech, was very happy about the outcome.
Heart of South- you said it!
Love Italy- right back at ya- Buon Natale e Buon fino anno
Your adventures make such good reading! Looking forward to hearing about the sale. Happy holidays!
It's great to hear more stories! Glad Bear is OK. I would also choose Rome for your bigger city, but then, it's my favorite place!
So what did you do for New Years?
Laartista, I've just found your thread after someone, I think Suze, pointed it out on a thread about art classes. I've spent the last couple of days reading the whole thing and as others have said, these are wonderful stories and beautifully crafted. Thanks for sharing them with us!
PS creative nonfiction is hugely popular these days--add me to the crowd calling for publication!
Thanks again you guys. Suze, what I do for New Years- niente! How's that for boring.Was asleep by just after midnight, lol, I'm such a loser
I meant to update this last Tuesday night when I got home because it was such a great night so I'll jump to last week and then back to Nov. when I went to Crema and then the parents visit.
First though,about a month ago I started having these stomach problems,nothing new to me, I always have stomach problems, have had 2 endoscopy, 1 ulcer and super bad acid reflux. At first because it was crampy I thought maybe it's just that time of the month, but aunt flo came and went and still felt like crap. Crampy and bloated all the time and anytime I ate anything , it was just awful. While I was in Rome with the parents one night it was so bad I walked into an emergency clinic. Noone spoke English, basically my mom forced me to go and there is never, ever winning an arguement with that one!
So for 24 E I got some lady doctor to press on my belly with 2 guys standing and watching, I think one was the nurse and the other the janitor( I'm totally serious) and her conclusion was " troppo CACA " That's right according to her I was literally full of shit! The one guy gave me a shot in my ass, she filled out some papers and said to go see my doc in Firenze and get an ultrasound. So back in Florence, the parents left and of course mom was crying because she did not want to leave me when I was sick, but I told them to go.
It was Wed. had an appointment with Dr. Soldani from my shoulder which is still tweaky, for Friday, I tried to move it up to the next day but no go. The next day I really was in a bunch of pain, did not want to wait another day and started getting neurotic that maybe it was a female issue. Hey, if I don't feel well I have it checked out, I run right to the doctor, don't care where I am,how much it costs, better to be safe. So with some googling I found a GYN, German married to an American been in Firenze forever, she was great! What was not great is the fact that in Italy there are no paper gowns, you basically walk across the room NAKED and straddle up! Horrifying if in the least bit modest which I am, I was so HORRIFIED! 70 E got me One internal exam complete with an internal ultrasound , a small cyst, and inflamed intestine. She gave me a scrip for some Homeopathic pills and teas,the Italians are really big on the whole Holistic meds, they pretty much stay clear of antibiotics if they can, she was leaving on vacaction and gave me her cell#.
So called mom told her and she said, " Well, that's good everything down there is ok, but why are your intestines inflamed Andrea?" Well I don't know Mom! " Andrea, I think maybe you should have that checked, Aunt Magdi says you should have that checked" OK, Aunt Magdi is the matriarch of my mom's Hungarian clan and a retired 80 year old Doctor who was connected with Columbia in NYC for years, very good doctor. So now you know why I get neurotic, MY MOTHER MAKES ME THAT WAY!
I decided to keep the appointment w/ Soldani for Friday but 15 minutes before he called and cancelled and rescheduled me for that Monday. It got worse over the weekend, the hocus pocus meds were not working and 10 am Monday I was at Soldani's office. He came out said Ciao, aspetta. I waited , another 20 minutes, at which point he came out with his coat on said he must go I can come back in the afternoon. Are $^&&* kidding me mister! I was clearly in distress, told him I had an appointment, unapologetic he said he must go I could come back. My ass I'll come back, I told him exactly what I thought of his blow 2 appointments off in a row policy and almost in tears got myself to the nearest internet cafe to find someone else. Studio Medico Medical Service located at Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico 59, if you get sick in Firenze THIS is where you should go. Not to that other hack who is in Stephen Kerr's office. THIS office has mostly local patients so you know it's good. The doctor I saw was Doctoressa Desii. She is very good, told her everything ,she sent me right away for an entire abdominal ultrasound at some radiology type clinic which is HUGE on Piazza Indepenzia. Such an ordeal, and a little bit scary when you are by yourself in a foreign country.
No English spoken at the radiology place, NONE. When the older man who did the ultrasound was done, I said, Qualcosa? He said,something which I did not understand so I said, Niente serio, he said no, no serio. OK that's all I needed. Next day back to the Docs office I waited 3 hours, because she didn't recognize me w/out my baseball cap from the day before. While waiting I ran into Kathy the woman who runs the Fuji art school where I took the jewelry class. She was there with her husband, who was well, not the nicest of men. Anyway ,she seemed to feel really uncomfortable seeing me there but when her cell was dead and she needed a cab I leant her mine. Anyhoo turns out I have a small mynomer ( don't know about spelling) 2 cm right side of uterus, that the gyn missed or thought not important to tell me about because it's very common in women over 40 ( OMG I'm a women over 40!) and besides that, all the organs are good. So Dr. Nesii says it's a dietary issue that my intestines are inflamed, I am probably indeed full of caca and that's where the pain is coming from. Seems overindulgence for 4 months here has done a job on my digestive system. So,or 3 weeks, no bread, no pasta, no dairy, no alcohol, no chocolate, no gassy veggies like broccoli, no beans basically lettuce, brown rice chicken, no spices or sauces, except for olive oil. I have lost 2.5 Kilo in a week, I have 2 more weeks to go and I may just lose my mind in the interim!In additon I take 6 FITOLINOIL tablets per day and 1 AXIBOULARDI per day forever ( that's like an acidopholous, gosh my spelling is horrendous!Oh, and must drink at least 1 1/2 litres of water per day. Anyhoo, good news is although not entirely better am on my way, I leave for Bali in 3 weeks and the last thing I need to go there with is a weak stomach. So Suze that's why I did NIENTE on New Years!
Sorry, man I can ramble! Alright so last Tuesday after I left the XDr. office I met Laura at Piazza Liberta, which is where she always picks me up in the car and we were going to see this gospel group that she had played with the night before. W e were going to a small church on the outskirts of Lucca to see a 5 person gospel choir from LOuisiana, Boy, was this going to be interesting!
The 15th century church was off the main road in the Commune of Capannori. We arrived about 15 minutes before start and the place was already packed. Luckily we got some seats in the pew in the 6th row so we were pretty close to the stage right. Next to me was the commune photog and directly next to him a confessional, It was SRO and people were sitting wherever they could including the confessional to my right. I was so pissed because I had forgotten to charge my camera and if ever I wanted pictures it was of this night! Right before we sat down Laura introduced me to the singers that she had met the night before. There were 5, 3 women, 2 men, one better looking than the next.
So I was psyched for this, I LOVE gospel choirs, have seen a bunch in NYC and also have been to almost all the House of Blues gospel brunches, Boston, a bunch of times, the one in Chicago, LA. I just love it! Her's the thing in small town Italy I don't know how familiar they are with the whole Southern Baptist Gospel Choir thing. I was about to witness, noy too familiar. So there I sit in my pew and then OSCAR WILLIAMS AND THE PERFECTED PRAISE TAKE THE STAGE!
Sorry want to google some images for this and call laura to ask about a song, brb
They open with a slightly upbeat, nothing too crazy song, their voices were amazing and as I look around this old church and watch the faces of what seemed like all the towns people of that town, I could tell they were gonna like it. However, they were not too familiar with the whole clapping along through the ENTIRE song, but Oscar himself was a great cheerleader and as if he held a cue card that said clap he would get them going again, it was keeping them going that was the problem. That's where Laura and I came in. Now she was a bit shy at first about waving her hands in the air, I was not, and about 4 songs in that's exactly what I started to do and then added the swaying action. It was then, that one of the women in the choir gave us the nod that we were doing good! A Kwanza tune, A few solos by each perfomer and then the song that got us, well me and Laura on our feet, Go tell it to the Mountain.
We each bought a CD with every other person on there. They literally cleaned them out of merchandise. Laura said it was a much different vibe from the night before. Sorry to speak for you Laura, maybe you want to pipe in.
Oh we were clapping and singing and the rest of the audience was just a bit confused at us. They smiled and we smiled back as if to say hey it's ok ,on your feet. Not yet, but they started singing and as I sang at the top of my lungs standing in a pew of a Roman Catholic church these words:
Go tell it on the mountain,
Over the hills and everywhere,
Go tell it on the mountain,
Our Jesus Christ is born.
I thought I actually felt my Orthadox Jewish grandmother rolling over in her grave. Now Laura is kind of non denominational and we thought it was funny that an American Jew from NY and a non affiliated Canadian were leading the pack. But here's the thing, to me it's not about religion, it's about people, I'm not religious in an organized sense, I'm more spiritual and think along the lines of the one God for everyone. So for me, singing those words were a celebration of life and people and the beauty in their voices and I was proud. Proud to be American at that moment. Now I don't want any Michele Obama miscontrued proud to be an American assertions here, I'm always proud to be an American. Not always proud of my government BUT always proud to be an American. But right then ,my country was being represented by a small Louisianan choir and not by a war, my country was being represented by 5 young singers from the Bayou not by some Wall street white guy with a 20 million a year bonus and a bail out, that night on the eve of the first African American being sworn as President of the United States my country was represented by 5 African Americans ( the only people of any color in that church)whose only task was to spread good Natale cheer. Maybe it's a bit deep but that's what I felt, it made me proud and I was proud for them because they were loved in that church that night. And finally when they sang The Saints go Marching In, everyone was on their feet and they received a standing O complete with the Bravissimos! It was AWESOME it was PERFECT!
When the show that lasted just over 2 hours ended it seemed as though everyone rushed the stage including Laura and I. Everyone wanted to shake their hand and we did. And Ashley one of the singers said, hey thanks you guys for being so participating
So we went outside and had a quick chat with Jacapo, a violinist that Laura plays with who was acting tour manager for Oscar Williams in Italy.I was so excited about the show I forgot where I was for a minute and slapped him on the arm and said THEY WERE AWESOME! He looked at me like I had 3 heads. Laura explained I was from NY, he shook his head. OMG he was GORGEOUS, I mean GORGEOUS, but gay. Seems the really cute ones are always playing for the other team.
WOW! Halleluia !! I am from Texas and could just hear them singing! I am so sorry you are dealing with *digestive issues*....I have been there too! I am glad you are still posting away for all of us lonely for Italy. I still read you on a very regular basis, just don't get to post much. Can't wait to hear about BALI!
Theresa
Thanks so much for posting your story. I feel like you're living my dream. I would love to be able to move to Europe and live on my art - unfortunately I have no creative talent so it's not gonna happen, but it's great to read about someone actually doing it. Your writing is so entertaining; it brings the people and places to life.
What an amazing evening that must have been - and how wonderful that you are there and able to enjoy it!
Hate to suggest this in Pasta Land, but have you ever been checked for celiacs?
Really truly enjoying your adventures in the country that has stolen my heart. Just pretending it is I going to school in Florence is enough!
laartista, just wanted to let you know I'm really enjoying your journey!
Happy New Year! So glad I popped in here and found this post! It is super late here so I just did a quick read and will come back to get all the gory details!
Welcome to this side of the pond! ( Funny we were in NYC for Halloween to see all the disadvantaged school kids that travel the world with us virtually).
We are back to our little village in Andalusia, Spain for our 3rd winter. We were in Sweden when you arrived in August & have just been too busy to post or visit here.
So cool to hear that you actually did it girl! Woot! That made my day & I KNOW this is going to be some interesting reading. lol! ♥♥♥
Next we will have to start working out a get together! ♥
I grew up in a baptist church and sang in the youth choir. We used to go to various churches and sing with the soulful choirs in Houston and in Louisiana. There's no better way to tug at my heart like a choir that can stir it up a bit.
Wow...

I can't believe I missed this when you started back in August. So glad I found it now. Love hearing about your adventures!
Felice Anno Nuovo!
Hi laartista,
I love that story about the choir from Louisiana singing in the Church in Lucca. I'm almost teary-eyed thinking of them (and y'all) singing "Go Tell It on the Mountain"!
My Mom is from Louisiana- and she loved your story too.
Happy New Year and have fun in Bali!
Andrea,
I finalized my trip yesterday! I will be in Florence Feb 22-27. I think you will be in Bali then, but let me know.
Theresa
Andrea - We need an update!
Oh, this new Fodors! artlvr, hope you will contact me while in Florence
So, been back from Bali about a week, AMAZING!!!!!!! will post a report and pix over on Asia. Will try to catch up here a bit.I can't believe it's almost March!
Crema- Thanksgiving weekend
So I had been found by a really good friend from college via Facebook, lost tpuch about 20 years ago, she lives in Crema, married to an Italian and also a mosaic artist! Crazy!!!! Anyhoo we had been talking all fall and she invited me up to catch up and also she was having a pre X-mas appertivo style mosaic sale at her place.
On a very rainy Saturday afternoon I left Florence, train to Milan where I was to get my connection to Crema. Really a pain in the ass trip if I'm to be honest, lugging an 80 lb suitcase full of mosaic stuff I had made earlier that week. My lot 16 large picture frames, 10 small trivets, 3 crosses, 6 candy dishes and 3 mirrors of assorted size. Well as my train pulled into Milan I actually saw my connetion leaving. Argh! With less than 1 blinking orange you are out of charge bar on my phone I texted Arlene she told me to get another train in an hour that went to a small town about 20 min. from her and her husband Enzo would pick me up. I think the stop was Trivolio or something like that. It's been a few months. So I did and arrived in an awful cold rain storm, but there was Enzo to greet me.
Now it's a little strange spending what turned into a 1/2 hour drive and another 1/2 hour at the house alone with someone you never met before, but suprisingly Enzo was chatty so by the time Arlene got home we already had glasses of wine. was it weird to see a friend that I had lost touch w/ some 20 years ago. It really wasn't, it was like no time had passed at all which I think is a sign of old good friends. Her apartment is a sprawling rehab in a 12th century building, well a few buildings connected. Art on every inch of wall, very ecclectic, very left bank, I loved it.
Igot her daughter Allegra's room for the weekend, who by the way is adorable. She also has a 12 year old son.
That night we met with another friend of her's and headed out to the hopping nightclub/ live music/ meatmarket place in Crema called Zanzibar. I think the name says it all. not my scene BUT a few Grand Marniers and I'm all good.
Sunday we spent the good part of the day setting up for the Appertivo. me, Arlene and a photographer friend of hers. All in all it was a great day, I only sold 1 picture frame which sucked and was highly unusual for me BUT most people there were her friends so they bought from her. The feedback was good. The best part was noone spoke English the entire night so even though it was exhausting for my brain it was good for my Italian. About 6 people plus me Arlene and her hubby stayed up and chatting til the wee hours of the morning. Man can those Italians drink!
Monday, a quick stroll around town which is very cute, I left my mosaics there, Arlene thought she could sell more in the weeks leading up to X-mas and she dropped me at the train station to get my train to Milan for a connection to Florence.
Well seems I got on the wrong train which DID NOT stop at Milano Centrale and when I noticed that we had gone past Milan and was kicked off the train at the last stop I exited the staion and asked a taxi how much to Centrale, 50 E. Well, that won't work, I was somewhere on the outskirts, there was a subway, 3 subway changes and finally at Milan wher I wait another hour for a es to Florence, arrive home at 8pm, 9 hours later! Good news was Arlene had sold a bunch of my stuff that day to people that came back so a few hundred Euro await me in Crema!
The parents come for a visit
laartista, I'm glad you are back to posting. It is a welcome read for the weekend.
Hey thanks bfrac- i know it's been a while

to kitty sit Bear and early Friday morning, very early Robin and I caught the Eurostar for the two hour trip to Milan. My parents were staying at the Andreola hotel, 1 1/2 blocks from Milano Centrale, I would later stay there the night before my trip to Bali. It is a lovely little hotel, Alessio at the desk is now my Facebook friend after he tracked me down
and it's about 100E per night, not bad at all for Milan.
My mom and dad are 68, they have been together since they were 14, married since they were 20. I love my parents, I adore them, they are the best EVER! That said, I knew 2 weeks with them, well 16 days was not going to be a cakewalk. I'm not sure when it happened but my Dad especially had become, well ,crotchety, nit picky and like me a hypochondriac. This was gonna be fun
They arrived from LA to Milan on Thursday December 4th late in the evening. Robin who hadn't been around much before or since then had jsut gotten back into town AND my mom invited her to come to Venice with us. So I asked Julia and Alex who have since moved back to Germany
I hadn't seen my parents since July, needless to say they were very excited. My mom had been to Italy once for 5 days in 99 when she met me in Venice, my dad's first time. We met them at the hotel, the 2 of them have a slew of health issues icluding my mom's MS so having Robin there was a big help in carrying/wheeling their bags.
So I knew that my Dad was not going to let me pay for anything while I was with them, and I also suspected he would not let Robin pay for anything either, but he was really over the top with it down to bottled water. I had to sneak to treat! Worst part was, he has this new habit my mom says started a few years ago where he spreadsheets the expenditures of EVERYTHING! And this trip was no exception, down to the bottled water, reciepts for EVERYTHING! Out comes the pen and notation on the back. My mom said the most fun he had was entering them into the spreadsheet every night. Off to Venice.
I had argued with my dad for months about renting a car. He was insistant. I told him it would be way easier by train plus less expensive, he fought me on it til the day they arrived. Turns out I was right ,and they both loved train travel. Everything was an exercise in patience on my part because everything was an arguement. Ever see Seinfeld? Well my mom and dad ARE the Seinfelds!
Before they arrived I emailed them hotel choices. So hotels are pretty expensive in Venice any time of year and we needed 2 rooms so I suggested we stay on the LIdo. Big mistake! Train to Venice was fine and quick and my dad loved the espresso cart that came by. He snapped pictures of every train station sign Plus mnay, many, many candid unflattering shots of me , my mom and Robin too,lol. I think she thought she should have stayed in Florence. So we get to Venice it was 4 days after the Aqua Alto that flooded the city. Although still raining and freakin bitter cold there were no signs of the previous flooding except the elevated walkways stacked at the end of each street.We did have one day of very cold sunshine when we went to Burano/ Murano.
Now I remeber the first time I set eyes on Venice. I could not get over it, there really is no place like it, I love it there as does my mom and Robin, my dad not so much. At first he thought it was kind of cool but all the walking ( he has leg blockages)and the cold and the rain and no English TV, well he was a bit grumpy at times. He did like food though, even though I think of all the major cities in Italy the food in Venice is the worst.
Anyway we stayed at a place called Venezia2000, not the 4 seasons, but comfortable enough and in the summer probably a super great perch w/ the beach directly across the street. But this was not summer, it was December and 15 degrees F with sleet and grey skies and ugh!It was an hour boat ride to and fron San Marco maybe 45 min. from Rialto. We got 3 day transporation passes for I think 40 E pp. Kind of steep but considering it was like 6E for each leg you got on a boat ended up being the right way to go.
Here's what we did in Venice:
Friday night ahd dinner at an unmemorable place on the Lido. Oh and I forgot, my parents luggage were lost in their transfer in London. Virgin Air sucked, and they had no clothes for 2 days. For my mom she bought a few things at a Coin store I think, but my dad who could be cast as an extra in THe Sopranos was hard pressed to find anything that would fit him. Early to bed.
Saturday - walked around Venice ALOT! Too much for my dad, had lunch, shopped, well my mom did, she was suprisingly controlled though, Could have been all the reciept collecting by dad. Both my sister and I have inherited the shop-a-holic gene from my Neiman Marcus loving mother! Boats shut down back to lido from everywhere except San Marco due to wicked bad fog. Finally put mom and dad on a bpoat back, me and Robin went to Harry's bar for a ridiculously priced drink, I just don't get it now that I've seen it and off to the casino where I won 100E Woo Hoo!
Sunday- used our transport passes to go to Burano and Murano, again forgetable meals, but the towns were beautiful even though pretty desolate. Was sunny but COLD!
We left Monday around noon, took the ES to Florence.
Venice pictures
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/VeniceDec08?authkey=HuU4dUfyP4U#
Nice pictures. When I saw the decorations on Murano I thought how cool it would be to see them lit and then there was your next picture. Thanks!
I'm condensing their visit, lol. Originally my parents were going to stay with me in Florence, that is until I took an apartment on the 4 th floor, 60 steps, big, old, uneven, stone steps. I'd be lucky if they made up here once to see the apartment. In fact just once was all it was. So I found them a great little hotel about 2 1/2 blocks from Piazza San Marco walking toward Piazza Liberta and about a 7 minute walk from where I live. Really cute hotel, their room was huge, breakfast was ok, but because they stayed for a week paid 70E p/ night. The hotel, and I would recommend it is Hotel De La Pace.
http://www.hoteldelapace.com/
In fact my aunt and uncle who will be here end of March will be staying there as well.
Once back in Florence we piled into 2 taxis and got them situated at their hotel. I still had classes that week and a test in my Italian class so in the day from 11-1 M-th Robin parent sat. Here's the thing my dad didn't want to go to any museums, or at least that's what he thought, when I would finally get him in one or a site such as Palazzo Vecchio, he loved it, just didn't know he would beforehand so on every street corner we had the same conversation, well what do you want to do now? How about we go to the Pitti Palce? No, what else, we can walk around. Walk around where? It was exhausting.. Luckily there were many chestnut vendors to keep him happy and many store windows to keep mom happy.
During the week they were here this is what we did:
Ate A LOT!!!!!
Saw a bunch of sites
Went to the designer outlets including Gucci and Prada, dad was offering to be suprisingly generous but I did not partake. Maybe would have if I had seensomething but I didn't. They do have great prices though and is recommended to check out. Laura came w/ us or we went w/ her she drove, all of us!
Joined Laura and her hubby Marco for dinner at their favorite restaurant in Florence where they are treated like royalty so we were too. My dad was taken to the kitchen to choose his cut of steak , he loved that.
Me and the parents did a day trip to Siena, they both loved it.
Ate some more
Went to the Santa Croce X-mas market for German food.
Mom did a bunch of shopping, Dad did a bunch of reciept counting
They came to the apartment ONCE, just ONCE, to visit their 4 legged grandson, who hates my dad. Unfortunately my dad takes it personally. After the stairs my dad said I should move, it's no wonder I have aches and pains. Cooked them dinner, gave dad the sky satallite clicker, he found cold case and bones and was happier than a pig in, well you know.
pix of miei genitori in firenze
http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidhand/MieiGenitoriInFirenze?authkey=aanKTs55JI4#
next to Roma!
I am still enjoying your updates and pictures on this rainy Sunday afternoon.
Ciao Laartista! I am so glad to see more reports..and I love your photos. They make me miss Italy so much however. Your parents are darling! I laughed about your cat hating your dad, our cat hated my mother, lol. She took it quite peronal. Never mind the fact she didn't like cats at all.
I don't know how you managed with an 80 pound suitcase on the train! I cringed for you. Glad your friend was able to sell a lot of your work however. Take care and thanks for sharing your time in Italy.
hi laartista,
my italian must be coming on as i know that "miei genitori" means "my parents". for some reason you are MUCH younger than I thought and your parents look my age. good for them!
great pics too.
looking forward to more,
regards, ann
What a wonderful thing to find on a rainy Sunday! Thank you for sharing this adventure.
Hey, thanks you guys! Will add parents in Roma hopefully later today but I am exhausted! Stayed up all night and watched the Oscars on Sky Cinema and then started new language classes this a.m. I'll tell you a month away from Firenze and Ho dimenticato TUTTI!
BTW, was in Bali for about a month with the jewelry thing and have started a report on the Asia board, mostly pictures. Bali is AWESOME! Anyway here is the link if anyone is interested
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/bali-wowie.cfm
Andrea,
I am sure I walked by your apartment today, just didn't know which one! I was on Panicale across from the Mercato Centrale and saw the jean guys selling in the market. E_MAIL ME!!
Artlvr123@aol. com or Artlvr123@gmail.com . I will be here through Fri morning.
Ciao,
Theresa
Ciao, Artlvr, actually that was the apt in Aug. since Sept. I have been on Alfani right around the corner from Academia, Love to grab a cafe if you have time, I'll also send an email.
Andrea - Are you still in Florence?
"A large gelato can set you back 12 bucks"
EEK. It's like one of those tourist nightmare stories you here going around. Like the one with bottles of water (small) costing 2 euro's a pop.
For the record, and in my own tasting experience, the worst ice-creams in Florence are in the centre of Town. I went to one of the most historic ones, with the queues outside, waiting and tasted, and was HUGELY dissapointed. This with a Florentine friend of mine, that agreed with me (ma è cambiato questo posto da quando sono andato io da piccolo!)
In my opinion the BEST place to get ice-cream is here
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Gelateria+Il+Girasole+Di+Luigi+Fratini%E2%80%8E&sll=43.768177,11.297303&sspn=0.002475,0.004731&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=18
For a list of ice-cream parlours that are recognized by ConfArtigianato (and thereby conform to a recognized standard in terms of production and quality), of which Girasole is one, see this link:
http://www.confartigianatofirenze.it/categorie/alimentaristi/gelatieri.htm
If you still need help acclimatizing to Florence, try the series of articles listed here that cover a wide range of pointers.
http://www.tuscany-villas.co.uk/uncover-tuscany.html
Welcome to Florence!
Thanks webmaster,that was from when I first arrived, been here 7 months now, so I'm settled and now know where and where not to get gelato
jsut slacking on this post, but all is good!!
Ky- yeah still here
Glad to hear all is well.
We found a wonderful gelateria when we were in Florence. It was on the other side of the Arno from the historic center and right at the end of the bridge that was next to the Ponte Vecchio. My daughter remembers that it was also very affordable, and she recommends the stracciatella (sp?). Personally, I loved the lemon on a really hot July day.
So......... I know I have totally slacked off on this thing but for good reason have been super busy getting this jewelry thing up and going. I debated about putting a link to the website here because of the no advertising policy BUT so many of you have followed me and gave me support on this crazy year and since the store is not up yet and it's just photos I'm bucking authority. This is the jewelry that was inspired by my years as a mosaic artist, from living in Italy and an oh so AWESOME trip to Bali, And so with really, really shaky hands, ( I am wicked nervous about this whole thing), I'm introducing RANE. Thanks Fodorites for following along on my ride and sorry if my posting this link offends anyone
www.ranejewelry.com
Since you have no prices up yet, I think it's fine.
The jewelery is beautiful. I especially like the cuffs and dogtags.
A couple comments about the website itself (I hope you don't mind). Are the "flash" graphics really necessary? A pet peeve of mine is going to a website and then being told to "wait" while it loads. It's rarely worth the wait just for some moving graphics.
Also, the photo on the main page looks a little low resolution and blurry.
Other than that, I think it looks great! Congrats on the new business!
I really like the bracelet and cuffs especially. I would easily buy one. Thanks for showing us your site, I don't mind waiting for it to load up.
Beautiful pieces, I wish you much success.
Your stuff is beautiful & original - good luck & congrats. I like the main page photo, it works. I think you will be a big success.

Your copy is a little un-grammatical at times
Andrea, your jewelry is beautiful! And the website looks good too-- I like the shades of olive for the background.
Thanks u guys.
Weird thing is my isi who is the big wig markting chick for THE MOVIE STUDIO wrote alot of it, so that definitely ain't no good! lol
Kristina still tweaking with the photos, the shot is actually very high res. trying to fix that and although i agree with the flash thing it is what it is for now, over the summer when i'm in the states i will redo with a graphics friend, but this is what i so not techie was able to handle myself
Ungrammatical- do tell cuz that ain't no good!
OK for instance would tweak the "about RANE" page just a tad like this:
R Ă N E gets its inspiration from the beauty of nature and features designs based on Andrea Brody's extensive original mosaic art work from the past decade. The R Ă N E collection includes rings, arm cuffs, necklaces and earrings. Materials used include 925 sterling silver, triple gold plating and an assortment of semi-precious stones - all set with the highest quality handcrafted workmanship.
Sorry - did not mean to impugn your sis - I have one too!
andrea, happy to see you back here. We hAVE ALL MISSED YOU ARE WONDERED HOW THINGS WERE GOING.
I too, love the cuffs and bangles
Love the River Run bracelet-- reminds me of Klimt's Water Serpents.
Andrea, congrats! Your creations are stunning -- I'm another fan of the cuffs.
GRAZIE MILLE TUTTI!!!!!

LAWoman- corrections made, thanks for the input
Great looking stuff, can't wait for the prices. Will you be selling in stores or just on line? Do you have anything inspired by your time in Italy? You mention being in the states this summer, are you moving back or just coming for a visit?
And here's a total non sequitur. Last summer I went to Budapest and had remembered from your trip report that you mentioned this face cream in little black jars. I saw the stuff all over but figured "how good could it be", not worth the trouble. Well my last day I was buying something else in a store and it was right near by on the shelf so I picked up a jar. It's the best stuff I've ever used. I don't suppose you ever found a source for buying it from the US have you.
So many congrats on getting this done in such a short time. I too love the bracelets and really really love the first necklace with the pearls. The site is now happily residing in my shopping bookmarks!
Will you, in addition to the web sales, place your pieces in any retail outlets?? Again, congratulations for this incredible achievement!
ps-some resolution was lost on the close-ups on my computer
hi laartista,
lovely work and the web-site loaded fine.
good luck with it all,
regards, ann
Hey, I hope my post did not come off as too negative. All I meant about the flash stuff is that usually there is a bunch of "loading" graphics just to get to the main page with more moving graphics. I'm not sure the moving graphics are worth it (in general). Not that the website itself is not worth the wait.
Love the jewelery. When are you going to put prices up? And will you be shipping from Italy or from within the US?
Hey,


Kristina- absolutely NO offense taken all remarks pos. and neg. welcome because everything can use a little constructive criticism
Will be selling thru web and also retail outlets, hopefully lots of them! We are also working on having them pplaces with stylists and publicists in LA for maximum exposure, luckily i have some cnnections out there
Isabel, no have not seen that creme anywhere online for purchase, it is great. My aunts go once a year so I usually have them pick some up for me. Small chance I may be meeting one of them there in June for a few days, if I go I'll give u a heads up and grab some.
laartista, LOVE the site! I am so excited for you! I sure wish you would sell some of your mosaics...hint hint lol. I showed FH the ones on your facebook page and he just sat there with his jaw dropped....i'm taking it he liked them
I finally got caught up on all the reading and must say that when you go to move this summer I vote for Roma! Keep us updated where you will be as we will be in Rome for 2 weeks in December.
Also, what ever happened to the guy that did your massages? Everyone was hoping for an Italian love affair lol.
Outstanding! You have been a busy girl.
Did I miss something? Moving to Roma?
Update: 3 months out of Italy will have turned into 11 by the time I get back for good July 1. The new jewelry biz has kept me back and forth from the States to Bali although I did return to Italy in January to find a new apartment ( with a/c this time) and attend the MACEF Fiera ( Milan Gift Show). Unfortunately was not a great accomplishment-wise trip but did figure out it will be a return to Firenze for the time being. I know peeps there, I'm already super familiar w/ the city and they have a Vet that is a Diplomat of the European College of Veterinary Medicine ( DECVM). Plus I can't afford Rome at the moment, 1300 E at a min. per month.
and since Nov. has gained 4 lbs back ( a better weight) and besides a lil eye infection at the moment is doin great!!!! So the timing worked better for both Bear and Business.
Those on Facebook know this autumn I almost lost Bear. Seems his thyroid meds had been poisoning his bone marrow. He dropped half his body weight to just over 10 lbs. They had to take him off the meds which spiked his thyroid to 30.0++, normal is 3.5.... SCARY!! He has an excellent endicrinologist who specializes in blood here in Vegas, he had the radioactive iodine therapy ( which made him glow,
So , my landlord found me a place, I asked Laura ( violincellista) to please check it out for me. She said it was real cute a bit small and I'm having a problem visualizing. I already put the deposit on the apartment but I think as long as I stick w/ Lorenzo if I wanted I could change to something bigger if he has.
Input please on 40 sq. meters + HUGE as Laura put it terrace.
Link below, all comments welcome, oh and it's 5th floor walk up no elevator but after 7 months of no stairs my ass has grown horizontal so lots of stairs may not be such a bad thing!
http://www.apartmentsflorence.it/articolo.asp?ID=ART00093
laartista, I just looked at your Rane jewelry - very impressed! They are really beautiful and unique.
The apartment looks pretty cool! Very bright and sunny, always a plus. Is that an artist rendering with the Duomo in the window - or is it really that close/a view from the window?
No that's the Duomo! My last apartment was even closer and that window is actually a door to nowhere. Do you think that
40 sq.m is really small, I'm trying to get a grasp on size about 430 sq. ft.
PS. Thanks re/; jewelry
A bit further than your last apartment, but no weird looking tile. I'm not so sure about a fifth floor walk-up. Oh my, but then maybe you could go for another massage.
Hi
Well, 430 SF is small, but at least the bedroom is a loft which gives a little separation. The bedroom doesn't look tiny, based on the amount of room around the bed (double bed?) so I'm guessing it's at least 15 feet wide, and perhaps 11-12 feet deep up there. Where is the closet/where do you put your clothes?
I suppose that leaves 15x18 on the lower level, give or take. That includes the seating, kitchen, dining area and bathroom. That does seem quite small, but the photos do it well - it looks larger than that dimensions would seem. I'm mentally comparing it to the size of the hotel room I had in London in October - I believe that one was roughly 380 SF - all on one floor though.
The apartment is very cheery and bright and modern. It looks charming. You'd have to picture your belongings in that space - not sure if there are closets (are closets even included when you state size of an apartment?) or other storage space - something to move personal items out of daily view. You also mentioned a large terrace? The location is good too.
I'd actually welcome a 5th floor walkup. Good exercise!
I really do like your jewelry. Very, very well done.
For how long a period of time are you renting this apt? It seems pretty expensive for the size and amount of stairs.
The apartment is bright and cheery, and the open space probably makes it feel bigger than it is. I like it a lot, and think it's very liveable.
My only concern would be the stairs to the bedroom -- and waking up in the middle of the night for, well, whatever! Umm, I'd be a little bit leery about stumbling down that spiral staircase in the dark.
Otherwise, I think it's very doable, providing you're pretty organized about storage or don't mind stuff around. Open spaces can feel messy pretty quickly - there's no place to hide stuff!
Congratulations about your business and move!
Paule
Nice to hear an update. Thank you. I think the new place looks very do-able. Especially knowing there's additional outdoor terrace space along with it. Kisses to Bear.
Thanks for all the input!!

Does look cheery and bright, and not so much the 5 floors but the fact that the bathroom is upstairs, so up that spiral everytime!
Closet is upstairs
I gave him 6 months w/ option to extend, I was hoping by end of year I could afford someting bigger or Rome. But I just want to get my stuff over to that continent and get the move, move out of the way so I'm over there and if the apt. didn't work out I would have an out.
BTW Progol- I am the least organized person I know and am like a teenage girl w/ my clothes in my bedroom, I try to be neat, just not possible
The website says the bathroom is in the loft with the bedroom. It looks gorgeous, if you can be very tidy.
I don't see why everyone's so worried about your housekeeping skills
I can mess up a large apartment just as easy as a tiny one. Big deal.
LaArtista....the apartment looks fantastic! My 2cents worth is to go for it!
hi laartista,
nice to see you're coming back to europe. the flat looks great, if a tad on the snug side! but very bright and modern -hopefully you'll be able to run the waching machine and boil a kettle simultaneously.
the only adverse comment I've got, and presumably you know this from your previous sojorn in Florence, is that no way is it 2 mins from the Duomo. we stayed in the via degli alfarni, which is closer to the duomo I think, and it was a fast 5 minute walk down via cavor.
good luck
regards, ann
I'm SO happy to see you back and would love (when you have time) for you to catch us up! Your jewelry is as beautiful as I expected it to be. Your sensibilities are wonderful for this and I'm really, really anxious to see the prices!
By the way, I love the apartment for one basic reason: You get to live in clean, new, modern facilities while looking out on the beautiful ancient city. After staying in many apartments in London, France and Italy I think the romance of living in a listed building is overrated when you are the one who must pay for updates, repairs, etc. (not that we did, we were just renting for vacations).
One question: Will you be creating the jewelry--at least prototypes--in the apartment? If so you might have a little trouble carving out space for that, but the light looks wonderful.
Just did a catch up on your life. Wow-y zow-y. Great stuff--the jewelry, the photos, the apt. the whole deal! Michelle Obama would love your jewelry. Have your mkting guru figure out a way to get some to her.
Continued good look and good health! Where is Bear and how is he now???
LaArtista, nice to find this update and discover that you are doing so well wih your jewelry. Please give us an update on Bear too. And has your pink computer survived?
The apartment looks very appealing: 430 square feet is about the size of a double garage although probably the sleeping loft subtracts from the square footage on the main level. Fans of Sue Grafton's alphabet series of mystery novels know that Kinsey Milhone, PD, lived very happily in an apartment converted from a garage with a sleeping loft up top.
Thanks u guys!!! So am def sticking with the small blue apt. w/ the great terrace. will stick a hammock out there for the summer!!!



Mel: I only design now, fabrication is done in Bali- hence my frequent trips there lately. So will just have to house my personal crap, lorenzo is kind enough to say if too small I can switch to a larger apt
Mclaurie- thanks and Bear is good he is w/ me when I'm in Vegas which has been every 6 weeks or so for 2-3 weeks at a time at the parents. Grandma spoils him rotten, he has the German Shepards running scared, rules the roost and is overall doing really well and staying put for a while got him back on the right health track. So even though I miss him while I've been racking up miles, soon enough we'll both be settled back in Italy.
Moolyn- Yep am on the pepto laptop as we speak, it's very popular with the other folks at starbucks, my office at the moment
Double Garage huh? That's not too bad for a temporary but once my folk art collection makes it's way over that may not suffice. At least for now is good with an extra i think 100 sq. ft. of terrace. I'm gonna put the coffee maker in my bedroom, so I can roll out of the bed, grab the coffee and right onto the deck!!
Oh and Suze- I am quite the tornado myself when messing up any size space
coffee maker???? Who are you kidding, you will just need to roll to the nearest bar/cafe for a cappucino...that is if you rise before 11am, otherwise it will have to be un caffe! LOL
But the apartment is five floors up, isn't it? I think a coffeemaker would come in very useful.
Laartista, you can see that lots of people are living your adventure along with you. I can see myself happily in the flat and taking the Italian lessons, the problem is I don't feel confident about the making a living by designing jewelry part!
BTW, Laartista, would you please give a web site where we can see some of your jewelery designs?

My lady wife is a glass artist, doing mostly kiln formed big pieces now. As I watch her slaving in the cold work shop with those awkward chunks of glass, I think your idea of having someone in Bali do the grinding and polishing has a lot of merit.
There is a website shown earlier in this thread
www.ranejewelry.com
elleneem- there is no advertising here on Fodor
Actually Tarquin, first 9 months have gone pretty well and they say if you can manage to stay above water as a new company right now things will only get better.
I'm gonna give Slanglish lessons on the side in Florence.Seriously.
Comments have been removed by Fodor's moderators
Hi
On HHI a few days ago there was a show about an American couple who bought a pied-a-terre in Paris. It was somewhere around 360 SF, if I am not mistaken (perhaps a little less, even 325 or so) and it actually didn't look quite as small as I had expected. They did a great job renovating it. The bathroom looked respectably-sized, they had a full size bed with space around it, sofa, small table with chairs, small kitchen.
I think your place with the loft upstairs (and terrace and bathroom and closet - I didn't know that the terrace was upstairs as well) sounds perfect.
Thank you elleneem for digging up the website. I had been looking for it on the thread earlier on and couldn't find it. I wanted to look at laartista's work.
laartista, any new news?
Not really, after he last 2 weeks in hong kong and kula lumpur am in bali for the next month. Bear & I move back to
florence july 1
Good to hear from you Laartista/Andrea again.
I'm really enjoying reading of your adventures and wish you every success with your jewellery business. You have some fine pieces.
On the subject of small apartments, take a look at this YT video of a 430sq ft apartment in Hong Kong (hope the link works). Knowing your creativity, it may give you a few ideas of how to deal with the limited space.
Cheers,
M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg9qnWg9kak
Sorry, its actually less than 430 sq ft - its 330 sq ft, but looks and feels like triple that ! Amazing.
Thanks Mathieu, will have to wait to view until i get somewhere w/ a faster internet connection
In honor of your new place, how about starting a new thread?
Mathieu: an absolutely amazing apartment. Fabulous!
It's cool isn't it, TDudette ?
I love things like that : making the most - and the best - of what you have to work with, and still being stylish.
M.
Topping this-I want to live in Italy!
Hi, Andrea - I've just found your thread late this afternoon and read it through for several hours. I am happy you and BearCat are going back to Florence. It may be a small city, but it has a huge soul and as you say, you're already established there. Please keep udating; your reports and observations are fantastic. If I could make a living there, I'd do the same thing you did without even thinking!
Your jewelry is just beautiful - I've got my eye on the large gold hoops to start with, but the bangles and the rings look good enough to eat. Can't wait to hear and see more.
Sandra