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First trip to Ireland--won't be the last!

First trip to Ireland--won't be the last!

Old Jun 27th, 2015, 01:44 PM
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First trip to Ireland--won't be the last!

Although I didn't post any questions to the Fodor's Ireland board while planning our recent trip, I did find some helpful information by searching the board. So I thought I'd post a report about our trip in case it helps others with their own trip planning.

We are a middle-aged couple who have been traveling more and more over the past few years, and planning increasingly long (for us) trips. We both have some flexibility in our job schedules, so we now aim for 2-week trips instead of 1-week trips. We already have a 2-week trip to Greece planned for this September, but we realized in March that we wanted to plan something for earlier in the summer. I've always wanted to go to Ireland, but my partner has been resistant out of concern that the weather would be too cold and rainy. I finally convinced him to give it a try; the relatively cheap direct flights from DC to Dublin didn't hurt! Because of the upcoming Greece trip, we kept this one relatively short, at 9 nights.

Our itinerary was as follows: arrive Dublin on a Friday morning (June 12), pick up a car and then a SIM card for our MiFi device, and drive to Cashel for the night. (We wanted to see the Rock of Cashel, and we figured that would be enough driving after an overnight flight.) Then spend the next three nights in Bantry, followed by two nights in Lismore. End with three nights in Dublin, flying home on June 21.

This is more moving around than we normally do when we travel--our usual style is to rent an apartment in one or two areas and explore locally. But we couldn't settle on a part of Ireland to base in, at least not for a first trip. So we mainly went the B&B route, which we enjoyed very much.

I'll provide more details in subsequent posts! This is my first trip report, so please bear with me.
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Old Jun 27th, 2015, 02:27 PM
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Oh, and one important thing I forgot to say in my intro post: we had an AMAZING time. We absolutely loved Ireland!
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Old Jun 27th, 2015, 02:49 PM
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Ireland remains one of our favorite places so I will be interested on your insights.

We enjoyed it so much (West Coast) that we returned 8 mo. later to drive the middle (north to south.) We will return to see the East some time.

Our biggest surprise was the food. We expected to eat fish & chips for 2 weeks and found the gourmet quality restaurants a huge surprise. Along with the excellent B&B's and stunning scenery, Ireland is a place not to miss.

I'll be watching for your details.
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 11:36 AM
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Thanks, TPAYT! I remember reading and really enjoying your report of your own trip to Ireland! I agree about the food...I'm really into eating good food when I travel, and I was so pleased at the quality of our meals.

So, here goes. We arrived in Dublin at about 11 AM on June 12, right on time, after an easy flight from Dulles. (We got Global Entry earlier this year, so we could use the TSA Pre-check line, which was nice.) Immigration in Dublin was pretty quick and we had no checked luggage to worry about, so we were soon headed to pick up our car. DP had reserved at Dollar; the rate was pretty good, especially given that we were declining insurance (we'd gotten a letter from Chase confirming that our Sapphire card would provide coverage). The line at the car rental office moved really slowly--why do car rental transactions always take so long?!--but by about 12:30 we had our car and were off to the Carphone Warehouse to buy a SIM card for our new MiFi. (We have rented MiFis in Japan and Spain and love having them--he needs to be able to call in to his office daily, and we like to be able to check things out on the web, find restaurant info, etc. So it just made sense to buy our own device, but of course that means buying a SIM card when we get to town.) It was a bit of an ordeal to find the store, but, thanks to our pre-downloaded offline maps (CityMaps2Go, which are great) we finally made it. The card ended up being 20 euros for 7.5 GB of data, which was just enough for our time there.

After getting the card, we grabbed lunch and finally hit the road for real. We got to Cashel, where we were spending our first night, at about 4:30. We checked into Aulber House B&B, had a bit of a nap, then wandered into town for a long stroll to clear our heads of travel fog. We walked by the Rock of Cashel, which looked stark and dramatic in the late afternoon light, but it was too late to go in. Probably just as well, I'm not sure how much I could have taken in at that point! The town seemed very quiet, almost a little deserted, and we were sad to see that the Cashel Palace Hotel, which seemed to anchor the town, had closed. We had a wonderful dinner at a pub called Brian Boru that our host at the B&B had recommended, then wandered back and slept solidly.

June 13: We indulged in a nice big breakfast and then checked out. We enjoyed Aulber House--it was a little more like a hotel than a B&B but was very comfortable (great bed and very well appointed room), reasonably priced, and well located, and the owner was lovely. The breakfast buffet was great, and on top of that we could (and did) have a cooked breakfast. Not typical for us, but when in Rome... Then, off we went to the Rock of Cashel. We arrived just in time to join a guided tour that was very worthwhile--but, wow, it was chilly up there! No rain, but the Rock is exposed and the wind was whipping. Fascinating place, and we were glad to have seen it before all the tour busses arrived.

Our next stop was Cork, where we had decided to stop for lunch at the English Market. It was smaller than we'd expected, but we got a great salad and sandwich to eat in a nearby park. Then we strolled around, stopping in the Crawford Gallery to poke around a bit. We would have liked to spend more time there, but we still had to get to Bantry, so we made ourselves leave. (We were a little delayed getting out of the parking garage because a group of naked--though fully body-painted--bike riders were passing by. A quick Google search courtesy of the handy MiFi revealed that this was the Cork leg of the World Naked Bike Ride. Who knew?!)

The drive to Bantry was beautiful, especially the latter part, as the roads got smaller and smaller. This was a little hair raising (the side mirror often hit hedges along the roadside), but we made it to our home for the next three nights, Bantry House, by about 5:30. The house was just stunning, and the location incredible! We checked into our truly lovely room, wandered around the beautiful gardens and enjoyed the view of Bantry Bay, then napped for a bit before walking into town for dinner at Fish Kitchen. (I had reserved by email a few days earlier.) It was a lovely, tiny spot, with perfectly fresh fish (I had Bantry Bay mussels, DP had John Dory) and very warm and kind service. We then wandered around town looking for music--the band at one pub was playing good trad music but the sound was way too loud, so we went to another pub, where we listened to a good guitarist/singer. We walked back to Bantry House, where we again slept incredibly well.

To be continued!
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 12:17 PM
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Bantry House and Gardens look stunning. A good reason to return as we missed it.
More, please!
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 12:26 PM
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Could you please add links to the B&B's you stayed in. I'm trying to find Bantry House but can't seem to get the accomodation part.
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 03:04 PM
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Hi CONTARBECKY,

I am really enjoying your report. I was in Dublin from June 10-17 and the weather was perfect, a bit cool at times.

I hope you had the same...
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 03:20 PM
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Hi TPAYT, sure! Info about staying at Bantry House is available at http://www.bantryhouse.com/bantryhou...bed-breakfast/. Aulber House is at http://aulberhouse.com.

latedaytraveler, looks like we overlapped! Yes, the weather was great, wasn't it? It was cool but never chilly (well, maybe except for when we were at the Rock of Cashel). Even when it was cloudy there was a lovely balminess to the air. It was so fresh. And we had essentially no rain.
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 05:50 PM
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So, to continue the saga (I'm sorry, I'd sketched out some notes and didn't realize until now just how wordy I'd been!):

June 14: The day started off with a really nice breakfast at Bantry House. Lovely scones, yogurt, fruit, muesli--and a full Irish for him, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon for me. The breakfast room at Bantry House is serene and lovely, and the food is top quality. What a treat! We poked around the main house a little, joining an impromptu tour that one of the staff was giving for some other guests. This is a really special house with a very interesting history!

But we didn't hang around the house too long today, because we had planned to spend the day exploring the Beara Peninsula. Really, coming to Beara was what drew us to Bantry in the first place, and our desire to come to Beara was stoked in part by Tony2Phones' comments about what a beautiful and relatively untouristed area it is. And it did not disappoint! We spent the day driving around the peninsula, taking full advantage of the very long day length in mid-June. We stopped for a short hike along Bantry Bay before we even reached the town of Adrigole, where we stopped at a lovely gallery/craft shop/cafe (Adrigole Arts) and did a wee bit of shopping.

We then continued to Castletownbere, intending to have lunch. Most places were closed, since it was Sunday. One restaurant, the Old Bakery Cafe was open--but both Google maps and Yelp had the location wrong and we couldn't find it! So instead we got salads, bread, and cheese (Milleens--a local cheese, from Eyeries) from the supermarket. We then drove to the ruins of Dunboy Castle and went for a beautiful walk and picnic along Bullig Bay, across from Bere Island. Back in the car we continued to Dzogchen Beara (a Buddhist retreat center). We wandered around the grounds, which are located high above the bay, and then continued on to Allihies, where we went to O’Neill’s pub for a Sunday trad session. The joint was jumping! We had some very good fish chowder (and beer/cider), then kept on driving. We continued past Eyeries to Lauragh, then took the Healy Pass back down to Adrigole. The road is extremely twisty, and although we had to dodge sheep we didn't see any other cars, maybe because it was so late in the day. We reached Glengariff after 9:30, surprisingly hungry. Almost everything was closed, but we managed to find a place that would make us salads.

This was a fun but exhausting day, and one on which we came to regret our original decision to have my DP be the sole driver. Still, we came away from Beara wanting to spend more time there. I can easily imagine a quiet, relaxing week spent near one of the small villages we passed through. The scenery is just beautiful, the terrain rugged but not forbidding. It was fun to see the different sides of the peninsula, and it would be great to have the opportunity to explore it in a more leisurely way.
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 06:22 PM
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In 2004, we took our daughter and her new husband to Ireland for their first visit, which included a tour of Dublin on the Hop-On/Hop-Off Bus. When the Live Commentator overheard me pointing out the occasional obscure site that he failed to mention (Croppies Acre, I think) -- He asked me pointedly if I had been to Ireland before.
When my daughter quickly responded in the affirmative, he said:
"If you visit Ireland once, you will WANT to return. If you DO return a second time, then you WILL make a third visit. And how many times have you visited?"
"This trip is our sixth", I told him.

He maybe missed ONE beat, but then smiled and asked if we had received our Citizenship papers yet.

Eleven years -- and 14 visits -- later, we still don't have Irish Citizenship -- but, I wish that we did!
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Old Jun 28th, 2015, 07:58 PM
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Enjoying your report. We took our first trip to Ireland last year and will go back. We enjoyed a very nice meal at the Fish House too. Looking forward to more.
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Old Jun 30th, 2015, 07:17 PM
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Thanks, Paqngo--I read your report of your time in Ireland when we were planning our trip and found it really helpful and fun to read!

Italian_Chauffeur, that's a great story. It seems as if most people who go to Ireland don't stop at one trip. But, 14 visits in 11 years--wow!

I am having a crazy busy week and haven't had the time I'd hoped to continue with the report, but I will get back to it in the next day or two.
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Old Jun 30th, 2015, 08:23 PM
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Actually -- Our current total is at 20 visits over 16 years!

When I retired in October of 2010, we spent 28 days there
http://ireland.activeboard.com/t5151...tirement-tour/
-- on TOP of a 2 1/2 week visit in April, to attend a family wedding: http://ireland.activeboard.com/t4903...ng-april-2012/

Now --- MOST people don't get the 'Ireland Bug' THAT severe . . .
But I've heard of very FEW who aren't 'Bitten' to SOME degree! ;-)
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Old Jul 1st, 2015, 12:51 PM
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I like the English market and love to see the buttered eggs. Cork has a lot to see and bet it was hard to leave. I want to go to Bantry. I love that area. I have been to Ireland 6 times and still want to go back. Enjoying your trip report.
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Old Jul 1st, 2015, 01:11 PM
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I am so glad you've enjoyed Beara! I fell in love with it in 2011. So delightful. I've only been to Ireland 5 times. I keep trying for those citizenship papers, too!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2015, 06:25 AM
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Well, picking up on my trip report at last!

We had a bit of a lazy morning after our long day yesterday, but it was a gorgeous day and so we decided to go out and explore the area again--this time to the Sheep's Head Peninsula. This peninsula is smaller than Beara, and Bantry House is right at the top of it, so we knew it would be an easier drive.

We drove along the north side of the peninsula, along the so-called Goat's Path. Just a beautiful road--narrow, little-trafficked, and with lovely views across Bantry Bay to Beara. Signs indicated several cycling routes, and I was thinking it might have been fun to be on a bike--but as we continued the terrain became more hilly and I reconsidered!

Soon enough this main road (the term is relative) turns south, and we followed it down into the pretty village of Kilcrohane. From there the road leads west, toward the tip of the peninsula. We were thinking of taking the road to the end and then hiking out to the lighthouse, but we decided to first stop in Kilcrohane for a bite at the Bayview Inn. We ordered a sandwich of homemade roast chicken to share, a pint, and a cider and wandered out back to the patio. There we fell into conversation with a couple from the UK who have been vacationing in this area for 30 years (in earlier days they rented a house, but they now travel in a caravan and get around on electric bikes), and we sat and chatted for a long time while we ate our simple but incredibly tasty sandwich.

By the end of lunch we were a little sleepy and had lost some of our enthusiasm for the lighthouse hike, so we decided to head east along the southern side of the peninsula and stop for a short hike along the way. The Sheep's Head Peninsula has a wonderful walking trail, the Sheep's Head Way, and we ended up walking a short but absolutely gorgeous stretch just east of Kilcrohane, starting at the Farranamanagh Lough and following the path up and over the headlands through the ruins of the Bardic School. This was one of the many places in Ireland where the landscape felt both oddly familiar--like a combination of Vermont and Northern California--but at the same time completely new. I think that's part of what felt so compelling about the country.

Back in the car, we continued east through Akahista to our next stop, the Heron Gallery Cafe and Gardens. These are owned by an artist, Annabel Langrish, who makes lovely wildlife prints (in fact we had picked up some cards with these prints in Adrigole) as well as paintings and sculptures. The sunny and cheerful cafe was just closing, unfortunately, but we wandered around the garden paths for a while, enjoying the creative and colorful plantings, the pond, the garden sculptures, the pigs, and the view to the bay. What an incredible spot!

Finally, we headed back to Bantry House, driving through more lovely landscapes and the town of Durrus. Once back we spent an hour or two exploring the property--which, we now realized, is crossed by part of the Sheep's Head Way walking path. Eventually we decided to think about getting dinner--and were shocked to realize that it was nearly 9! These long days can really play tricks on my sense of time. We high-tailed it down to Bantry and had dinner at O'Connors. The setting was comfortable and the people just lovely, and we had a good meal with the usual impeccably fresh fish.

We are eager to get back to Sheep's Head Peninsula. I've never done a multi-day walking tour, but if I ever do one I think it will be here. The scenery is so beautiful and serene, with the views of Beara to one side and of Mizen Head to the other, and even though the area feels quiet and remote it is actually pretty accessible, with Kilcrohane less than 30 minutes from Bantry.
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Old Jul 4th, 2015, 07:32 AM
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Loving your report!
We spent a week in a rental cottage in Kilcrohane, back in April of 2001 (our 30th Anniversary)and loved it.
Report is here, with a link to photos: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...newal-tour.cfm
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Old Jul 4th, 2015, 09:10 AM
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OOOPS!!! My bad -- It was April of 2006 -- and our 35th Anniversary! The 2001 Visit covered entire different areas -- Cahir, Cork and Dingle.
It's tough, this getting old thing -- NOT for the faint of heart or the young. ;-)
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Old Jul 4th, 2015, 04:54 PM
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Great report. Keep it coming!
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Old Jul 4th, 2015, 07:31 PM
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Our first overseas trip was to Ireland, so loving your review. We got a 7 night trip with bed and breakfast selections, as well as a car for the duration for something like $399. Times have changed, right?
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