Margo

My husband and I spent 12 days in Italy this summer and while we were 1st timers, I would like to add my comments and what I have learned...... <BR> <BR>We flew Delta from JFK to Venice in Business Elite class. My husband HATES to fly so we booked tickets which were upgradable($1,375)and added 40,000 points(each ticket) from Delta miles. For those of you that don't care, by all means go coach. BUT, if you can go Business Elite this way it is SO WORTH IT. We had tons of room,were treated like VIP's and made the long flight a breeze. <BR> <BR>Stayed at Hotel Ala in Venice. It was clean,quaint and in a great location. The #1 vaporetto was about 50 yards away, as is the Gritti Palace. To me Venice was beautiful,charming, not too hot or crowded, the water never smelled and a must see. We took the #82 vaporetto to Guidecca Island and ate at a very quaint,local, garden restaurant called Altanella. <BR>The owner was a doll and this is where we had our first dinner in Italy. Then it was on to Florence by 1st class Eurostar. I liked this because we had assigned seats in nonsmoking. Travel agent suggested this and we agreed. Agent also suggested private transfers from airport to hotel,then pick up from hotel to train station and so on from city to city. this was all paid for in advance and again, if you can do it this way it saves the hassle of looking for taxi and struggling with luggage. The pick up person has a van and does everything. So, on to Florence.....will continue in the next message.Keep reading.

Margo

We stayed at the Plaza Lucchese in Sante Croce. Loved this location because it was far enuf away from the crowds yet close enuf to walk to Duomo and all other sites.Rooms were clean,bathrooms were big for italy standards. Ask for room facing Santa Croce church not the Arno river as the mopeds along the road are noisy. I will not mention the beauty and need to see major sights as you already know this but wan to recommend a couple of things. If you want leather go to the Leather School. It is located to the left of the Sante Croce church. You can get there directly from the inside of the church or,if you are not dressed appropriately, there is an entrance from the outside as well. We shopped around and found the prices and quality of leather was excellent here. Ask for Vito. He was very helpful and had wonderfull taste. They make things from $5.00 little change purses(great for gifts,in all colors) to $500.00 pocketbooks etc. And I love the way Italians wrap their goods. Florence had some beautiful stationary stores. We shopped at Johnsons & Relatives on Lungarno Corsini,near the Pitti Palace. Lovely things. Better prices than around the very crowded Ponte Vecchio. <BR> <BR>Two wonderful meals in Florence. Il Lantini,via Dei Palchetti.The place is fun,Tuscan soup to die for,and wonderful waiters. Other,more formal place was Leo's in Santa Croce. Very good food, more tourists, but wonderful owner, very gracious.We were not able to go to Siena or San Gimignano but we did take a taxi up to Fiersole. It was lovely,we ate the best warm pomodoro bruschetta in a very cheap outdoor restaurant right in the main square. <BR> <BR>On to Rome....

Margo

Again, took 1st class rail to Rome. There was a delay on the tracks so therefore train was delayed. Tip...if you have to go on the info line at the station get on quick cuz there is a tremendous wait as few windows are open. <BR> <BR>Stayed at the De La Ville Intercontinental at the top of the Spanish Steps. Next to the Hassler. Our hotel in Venice was a small 3 star, Florence was a 4 star and a bit bigger. In Rome the hotel was 4 star but was like a 5 star. Peopkle have said they don't like the spanish Step location but we loved it. Yes, at the bottom of the steps near the via condotti it was very crowded but at the top it was not. We were able to walk to Plaza Navona,Campo dei fiore and most other areas.There was a Georgio Armani fashion show going on the 1st night we arrived. the models were staying at our hotel. This was the closest I will ever come to the red carpet at the Academy Awards.As we exited the hotel for dinner,there were fans with cameras lined up behind barricades snapping pictures of the rich and famous. We went back inside and caught it all from the lobby. We saw models ,Armani himself and for all you star groupies we were 2 feet in front of Ivana Trump whose body looked great but the plastic surgery is very evident.anyway, we hired a tour guide/driver for one day in rome. we only had 3 nights and wanted to get in as much as possible. If you are looking for a very technical guide then this person is not for you but if you want a warm,funny,reall live Italian to show you around then I have it. His name is Alfredo Peparini. I got him from a recommendation online. We emailed each other all the arrangements. He wanted no money up front. He met us in the hotel lobby at 8:00am and kept us out til 7:30 that night. He also took us for a GREAT meal in a very nontouristy restaurant called Il Canestro via le Mazzini(mnever saw this in any tour book) alfredo ordered all the food.For all you food groupies, the antipasto table was outrageous as was a fresh fish ragut over homemade pasta followed by lobster and shrimp. We loved Alfredo. He took us wherever we wanted to go. It was a pleasure to ride in an air conditioned minivan for a day, instead of walking, and we could not have seen as much of Rome as we did if we did not hire him.The person I got his name from told me that she hired him for 3 days and on the last day he took them to his home for a meal made by his wife. that is how nice he was. <BR> <BR>We loved the Borghese museum and a must see if you have the time. the other nmemorable meal was at Al Fontanone in Trastevere. dIt was cheap,GREAT food, the owner, Pino, bottles his own wine and I ate the BEST porcini mushrooms over fettucini and fried artichokes( which are out of season in July so they were frozen and STILL delicious)the owner was wonderful and these two meals in romw were my favorite. Not fancy, not touristy,just good food. <BR> <BR>On to Amalfi....

Margo

OK, we were on the last leg of our trip. We took train to Naples. there we were met by a driver from our hotel who took us down to the BEAUTIFUL coast. We splurged on the hotel which was the 5 star Santa Caterina. We loved the white tiled floors with colored tiled murals,the pool,the open airy lobby,the restaurant/terrace overlooking the sea.Now, many people have questioned whether to stay at(5 star) Santa Caterina or San Pietro in Positano. I did not see the San Pietro so I cannot comment. But my agent said it was more money than the Caterina and far more stuffy and touristy.We wanted to stay where Italians vacationed and that was more Amalfi than Positano. My husband did not take a dinner jacket and he ate at the Caterina at night in nice pants and shirt. I wore a linen dress.We were not into dressing up. I loved the Caterina. It is not old world decor. It is white and airy.The staff and guests were friendly. We relaxed at the pool area and jumped into the blue water of the sea. It was a dream. I also liked Amalfi because the hotel had a free shuttle(2 minutes) to the main town. From there we explored Ravello( about a 15 minute SITA air conditioned,clean bus ride) and was able to catch a ferry to Capri. Ravello was beautiful. We went to the Pallazzo Sasso hotel for a drink.The grounds were breathtaking but we heard the food is not as good as the Caterina and it was too stuffy and all the people had jackets on as it was near cocktail time when we visited.If you take the ferry to Capri, do it early. We took an 8:30a.m. Capri was lovely in the morning but by 11:30 it was much to crowded. I can understand why people say Capri is perfect when all the day tourists leave. the night must be heqven.Capri is not a hop ,skip and jump to get to. First you take a ferry,then a funicular up to town,then if you want to see Anacapri, you must then take another bus.We did not like Anacapri. It was the first time that we saw resturants that had hot dogs and hamburgers on the menu.It was not as charming as Ravello or Amalfi or even Capri.So, if you are not up to schlepping yourself around...skip anacapri. This is only my opinion. Others may have had different experiences. <BR> <BR>We spent our last night in Italy having a very romantic dinner overlooking the water on the terrace of the hotel. I WILL never forget the view,ambiance etc <BR> <BR>The next morning the driver took us back to Naples where we boarded an AlItalia flight to Rome.There we departed Italy for home. <BR> <BR>I thank all of those who gave me tips online for 9 months before my trip. Ed,Rex,Bob,Elaine,Marilyn,Paolo,and many others. I LOVED Italy as I knew I would. It exceeded my expectations. I threw my coins in the fountain as I hope to return. If anyone has a question I would be happy to answer. Please email me. [email protected] <BR> <BR>I wish I could stay on this site forever and read about Italy but 1) it makes me sad because my trip is over and 2)I have to start researching college sites for my son. What a difference. LOL <BR>

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Excellent report Margo. I am delighted you had such a great time. You did it right.

Rex

What a great trip report - - and I don't often fully read nor appreciate lengthy trip reports. <BR> <BR>I am flattered that you mentioned me by name - - for whatever little help I may have provided to you, and so tickled to death that your trip went so well. <BR> <BR>Best wishes, <BR> <BR>Rex <BR>

robin-k

- <BR>Margo, glad to hear about your wonderful visit to Italia. <BR> <BR>Funny --- often the small things that capture your eye. Your comment on how they wrap packages --- I love buying things in Italy and watch how they carefully wrap up the items. Don't just plop their goods in a plastic sack. Really understand the art of presentation. <BR>