I suggest self-drive. True you cannot take in all the scenery while you drive, but you can stop wherever and whenever you want, stretch your legs, have a good look, take a photo, and be in (rather than passing by) the place.

That leads directly to your next question about how how much ground you cover. In scenic areas you travel slowly, partly because you are stopping to see or do things, and partly because the roads are often (usually) not built for high-speed inter-urban travel. So be disciplined, focus an what you really want to see, and keep the itinerary short and tight.

I think you have answered your third question already. Be warned that B&Bs cost the solo traveller a bit more. The effort in setting up a room is the same, whether it has one occupant or two, and many (I think most) B&Bs do not have singles so taking you means they might pass up the chance of two paying visitors.

I make no suggestions about itinerary because you have said nothing about what interests you.

JR-- driving in Ireland is not an easy proposition. A first timer to Ireland who doesn't like missing stuff should therefore avoid the driving solo bid. Next option is an escorted tour. I have never taken one, but do see that under your conditions and based on how poorly the dollar is doing, an escorted tour is actually a good value choice. So what to do? Split the vacation in two styles: the first week do it yourself and focus in areas with great public transport system and with easy day trips within a relative close radious, i.e. Dublin, down to Kilkenny. The second week, pick up a tour with a focus on a certain region you will like to see (i.e. Southwest) and meet up with the group and go. Tours have about 25% independent time alloted and the rest they are driving you to a place you would be heading out anyway. There isn't a lot of time to dilly-dally so you need to start by making a list of what is a MUST and what is a NICE to see. This will give you an idea on whether you just need to be in a region or if you really will be all over the place.

I agree with Viajero2 - be advised that you will probably get hit with a heavy 'single' surcharge on the Guided tour portion of your trip.

B&B's may not be the best way to go for a 39YO lady travelling 'solo.' Their rates are 'PPS' (per person sharing). You may have to negotiate on prices for B&B's. Hotels might be better for you.

A male septuagenarian I can't speak from a 39 yo female's perspective; but I found many B&B Operators to be very 'nosy,' so I opt for hotel stays whenever possible.

May is not peak tourist season except possibly for Ennis' Spring music festival (21-28 May?), so you should be able to 'pick & choose.'

I went solo and did train (mostly) and taxis but have heard the bus system is great. I took trains because I didn't want to miss the scenery and didn't want to drive, particularly left-drive. I've done another trip with a woman friend and we also did trains vs. drive, with a couple of taxi trips. A trip where my husband drove with our whole family, he found it somewhat harrowing and wished we had taken trains. Car definitely gives you more freedom to see a lot of sights, but I never regretted our car-free travels.

It really depends on where you want to go. You could also consider trains/buses and getting a car for areas not accessible by public trans.

On my solo trip I went to Galway, Ennis, Aran Islands, and Dublin. With a friend, we went to Dingle, Connemara, & Skerries, as well as Galway and Dublin. Worked fine. We got to more places with the car (Ring of Kerry, Killarney, Enniskillen, Cork, Kinsale, and Sligo), but I think you can have a lovely tip without one. On an escorted tour you'd be mostly on busses, right?

Do it yourself and drive. Ireland doesn;t really have highways - so there's no issue of your speeeding along at 85 and not seeing anything. Most roads are small and local with low speeds and lots of places to pull over - so you can enjoy the scenery even while driving.

Can't comment on B&Bs - since I like large full service hotels. (I actually think it's kind of creepy staying in some stranger's house, and don;t like the idea of people knowing when I'm coming and going etc.)

I did it solo and took the bus around, and the train. I don't think I could've managed driving. I get lost.... a lot.
I know you don't want to do Hostels, but some do offer private rooms. Have you looked into guesthouses?

I was there for a little over a week.

The BESt -all time -- SOLO FEMALE IN IRELAND thread:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34373959

Take a look at the various Tour Itineraries and see how THAT jibes with YOUR list of 'Must-Sees'. If it DOES match, then go for it -- but I'm quite sure you will find the 'cookie-cutter' tours somewhat lacking.

I've logged thousands of miles driving in Ireland without any significant 'incidents'...

There IS a Single Suppliment surcharge when traveling solo, BOTH on tour and otherwise, so THAT'S probably a wash.

B&B's in Ireland are MY preferred way to go -- it can add yet another dimension to your experience that you might other-wise miss.

Give us an idea of your Wish List and we'll have a go at helping you find YOUR way ....

Bob

I am a single female (older than you are now) who has traveled to Ireland solo many times over the last 41 years. I have rented a car many times without significant incident, though I did get stuck once down a road I shouldn't have been on with a little car. A kind farmer pulled me out with his tractor. (Long story, which is funnier now than it was then and which is irrelevant to the current topic.) I love being able to stop when and where I want, pick up picnic makings at the grocery store and eat at will, finding small towns off the beaten track, etc.

I didn't find B&B owners nosy, rather helpful and friendly. As far as the single supplement is concerned, I didn't find them outrageous; in fact, I often found B&Bs with single rooms. The supplements were a lot more reasonable than those on many tours. The tourist info. offices were very helpful at ferreting out single rooms. Until a few years ago I was a teacher so perforce travelled in the summer and did not have trouble fining places to stay even in high season. I did stay in hotels occasionally, and found them more expenxive than B&Bs. Price was for the room, not per person.

When I did eat in a restaurant, I found the wait people friendly and helpful and never got a "bad" table.

In fact, I am planning to go back this spring and will be driving myself.

Good luck with whatever you choose that will work for you. Have a wonderful time.

You all are so great! Thanks for the info, it is so helpful.

I believe I am going to drive myself, because I want to get all that I want for my money...not what someone else decides.

As far as my itinerary, I am a nature lover, as well as history. I definitely would love to see the Dingle peninsula, as well as Connemara. I have been told not to miss Giants Causeway too (which may be difficult because its so far from other things I want to see???). I definitely don't want the tourist traps like Blarney, but really want to see Kylemore Abbey and the Rock of Cashel. Any other ideas??? (I would like to do a bit of birdwatching). Also want to see the Dublin zoo, believe it or not.

As far as driving, I am a zookeeper, and if you saw the areas that I drive every day at work, you would see that narrow roads are not an issue. I'm used to driving horse trailers in very tight spots.

Thanks again!

This is nothing to do with Ireland, but I travel solo quite a bit (50+yo female) and I never rent a car or drive myself. It would give me an anxiety attack and I simply just would not want the responsibility.

That said, I do not take tours either.

I go on my own and plan my trips around what I can do making use of the train or bus system, and taxi or public tranpo within cities.

RE: Blarney....I was dragged by co-travelers to the Blarney Castle (compromising...). I had read here so many times about what a tourist trap it was. Guess what? It was so much fun and I loved it. The castle and surroundings forest area is definitely worth a visit. The whole kissing thing, you either do it or you don't. It is so irrelevant. A personal visit to this place really turned me around; I think it is a very interesting castle and site.

Hi Viajero!

Thanks for that snippet on Blarney. I may just have to re-think that stop!

For trip routing and planning:
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichelin/int/tpl/hme/MaHomePage.htm
OR/AND:
http://www.aaroadwatch.ie/

Be advised that the DRIVE TIMES are rather, AH... OPTOMISTIC -- as they assume that you are a skilled, LOCAL driver and that you won't be distracted by the views and the IRISHNESS of your surroundings.

If you decide to Mix-And-Match,
Day Tour companies:

Mostly run out of Dublin:
http://www.newgrangetours.com/tours.html
http://www.railtoursireland.com/

In Galway, there are a number of companies: http://www.bushq.com/galway/index.htm and in Killarney, Deros Tours offers numerous excursions AND has private drivers. http://www.derostours.com/rates.html

Does that get you STARTED?

PS: I have been to Blarney three times in the last nine years. The grounds ARE beautiful and I have a really nice photo, looking down from the battlements of the castle.
And YET --
I AM one of those that regularly advise skipping Blarney. It can be OVER-RUN with tourists, to the point where the narrow, steep and claustrophobic climb up the winding, worn, stone stairs can take FOREVER.
Since MANY on this board are trying to 'SEE IT ALL' in just a week or so, Blarney can be a MAJOR time-drain. There are MUCH better castles (Ross, in Killarney, Cahir Castle, in Cahir -- just to name two)

I often recommend Bunratty Folk Park, however -- so what do I know????

The TRUTH is, that I can't think of ANY place in Ireland that isn't worth a visit, or three. But, given MOST people's time considerations, seeing ALL that Ireland has to offer is seldom a viable option.

We give ADVICE here -- after our opinions are weighed, it is the Traveller's option to decide whether or not to TAKE it.

After all, it's YOUR vacation.

Bob

RE: Lines at Blarney. I was there at the end of August and there was NO LINE at all. That said, a friend was there in May and she had to deal with the lines. Even so, she thinks it was a blast, what can I say...

JR, if you are a zookeeper, you would really like the park on Fota Island (near Cork, it is not an island that needs a ferry ride to access). They are working on breeding rare species (and some not so rare) there and the animals are in very large enclosures so that from some angles, they look as if they are in the wild. I remember lemurs getting up very close to me and seeing one perch on a little girl's shoulder.

The Saltee Islands near Wexford (ferry from Kilmore Quay) are supposed to be a birdlover's paradise. A stopover for migrating species. Sorry I don't have any details on when is prime bird spotting season, but I am sure that you could find details somewhere with a google search.

Again, have a great time!

Hi again all,

Italian Chauffeur, thanks so much for all your great info and websites. The travel log from Mina was fantastic!!! And, yes, definitely, that gets me started!

Irishface, I can't tell you how great that info on Fota and Saltee islands is! Exactly the type of thing I really need for planning! Any thoughts on the Dublin or Belfast zoos? Should I waste my time on either of those??

Next, in your opinions, is it cheaper to book everything seperately, or as a package (air, car, b&b's).

One more question, I would really like to see Giants Causeway, and have been told by so many not to miss it. However, most of the other areas I plan to spend most of my time is in the south and west. My biggest fear is not seeing it, and when or if I will be able to return.

Thanks again to everyone who is giving me advice. I couldn't do this without any of you!

I BELIEVE that IrishRailTours offers a 'Day-Trip' to the Giant's Causeway out of Dublin. The tour leaves early in the AM via train to Belfast and then, I THINK it transfers to a bus. Return to Dublin is late -- 10PM or so.

I'll look for the link.

Meanwhile, I would buy the airfare --consider an 'open-jaw' (INTO Dublin - DUB- and OUT of Shannon - SNN - or vice versa ). It USUALLY doesn't cost any more and saves you having to spend a whole day, just getting BACK to catch your flight.

Once you've set your dates, flesh out a rough plan -- you don't need or want a car while in Dublin.

Book all of your Dublin nights first as the better places fill up early. If you opt to fly into SNN, book your first night's stay, as well. Once you've got that, THEN book your car rental.

So, yes, I AM advising that you do it yourself. Otherwise, you will be 'Locked-In' to someone elese's schedule, rather than your own.

Some other links that might interest you:

http://www.invectis.co.uk/cork/garnish.htm Garnish Island - Ilnacullin Gardens

Index of gardens, with interactive map:
http://www.castlesgardensireland.com/main/map.html

http://www.millstreetcountrypark.com/ They used to keep a herd of Irish Red deer -- dunno if they still do ...

There are also a number of animal sanctuaries for particularly for sheep, and donkeys, if you think that might interest you.

Some examples: http://www.klas-millstreet.net/news.php

http://www.thedonkeysanctuary.ie/site/4/Visitor_Information.html

Hope this helps more than it complicates your planning ---

Bob

Here's the link to the Giant Causeway Day Trip:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35053840

Bob

I travelled to Ireland solo in my early 40's (7 years ago) and it was one of the best trips I've had. I rented a car and logged on some incredible amount of miles in my 10 days. I didn't feel the roads were as bad as people say. I would definitely get extra coverage though b.c. the roads can be narrow and of course you drive on the left. I think I did pretty much standard route through the South beginning in Galway and ending in Dublin. Stayed in Connemara after seeing the Cliffs of Mohr, Dingle Peninsula is a must, Kilarney, Cork, Waterford (only if you're interested in crystal), Kilkenny, and up to Dublin for a few days. If you're comfortable, get off the beaten track. I felt safer having comfortable hotels waiting for me at each stop(modest at that).
I booked through a central reservation co. so that the entire trip was planned through one service.Enjoy the million shades of green!Also, you might enjoy the movie "Once" before or after you go.

Get a car (be sure to go for auto - shifting AND driving on the opposite side of the road AND navigating is a bit much) and go!

Bring your travel guides, a good map, and a big smile and you'll be set. Shoulder seasons will assure you of choices of incredible B&B's and country houses. Hug the coast - the most scenic and mystical - and don't be afraid to travel into the north - it's equally wonderous!

2 weeks should be fine... but don't plan on lots of Dublin time. THat's a separate trip! ANd be sure to ferry to the Aran Islands!

Hi JR,

Since I haven't traveled to Ireland myself, I can't give you specific advice, but I can suggest a couple of good sources which have helped me when traveling solo elsewhere (Scotland, England, Italy, Australia). Being a single woman traveling alone, for me safety and accessibility are always prime concerns in choosing accommodations. I personally tend to prefer the B&B atmospheres except on ocassion in large cities, and find that the innkeepers often are very helpful and their advice as locals can beat out any formal hotel concierge. There are also home stays and such. I suggest you visit the Journeywoman site to read about accommodations, including B&B's, home stays and hotels. Thousands of women who frequently travel solo share their own recommendations there. You may also find some good advice regarding your other questions (itinerary, driving, etc.). It's a great resource (www.journeywoman.com). The other site I use extensively for reading the pros and cons of various accommodations is www.tripadvisor.com. These are reviews by "regular people" who have stayed as guests and you can search hotels and B&B's by location or name. Often these reviews tell you a lot about the convenience and/or ambience of the property's location and you can certainly avoid some real dives by reading them (I refer to the reviews both for personal travel and in weeding out properties in my work as a meeting planner, but I always go to the property itself for booking). Many B&B's in the UK do have single rooms, by the way, though they may have only one single room available and so they sell out quickly. It never hurts to ask, if you prefer a B&B. You pay more as a single person in a hotel too.
Happy travels! Sounds like a fantastic trip...
Beth

Hi Beth, Passport, and Blue!!

Your info was all SO great and helpful! I am definitely going to get my own car, and have finally bought my plane ticket. Now the fun begins in the actual itinerary and accomodation planning.

Beth, I am going to check out those websites next! Thats exactly the type of info I really in need of right now! I'm sure it will be helpful, as you have been.

Passport, I am actually going for the stick. One, cuz I've driven sticks all my life and hope that the change shouldn'tn be too difficult. And two, its about 200 bucks cheaper! Eeek. Hope that doesn't come back to bite me.

Blue, thanks for the itinerary info. Its very close to what I was thinking of doing. Do you remember if you saw alot of birds on your coastal travels? Not sure what time of year you went though, or if you were even paying attention since I'm a bird geek and most normal people aren't.

Again, thanks for your great advice. I am getting more and more excited every day! I will be celebrating my late 39th b-day (March)/transition into my 40s next year. Really want this trip to be as amazing as everyone says it will be.

Janessa

Drive! I went to Ireland a couple of years ago alone, for 16 days. I hate driving, and yet I thought the driving was absolutely the best part of my trip. The countryside was heavenly, and I think I saw far more than I would have seen any other way, met great people, went spontaneously to fantastic things they recommended . . . Drive! I did mostly B&Bs, which I thought were great. I flew into Shannon, drove south through the Ring of Kerry, Cork and around in a semi-circle up through the Wicklow Mountains and up to Dublin, where I flew out. It was amazing. I want to do it again.

I didn't have my blog when I went to Ireland, unfortunately, but I've blogged about some other travel adventures at www.paynoattention.net. Check out the categories on the left hand side to go straight to the posts about my various trips.

By the way -- I got lost a few times when driving, and that was often the best part. I went into a pub to ask directions, and stayed for lunch and to chat. They steered me to a medieval tower in the middle of a cowfield and the ruins of a cathedral that weren't anywhere in my guidebooks. I never felt unsafe for a minute, although I was confused once or twice. Drive!

JR, I accept your categorisation and declare that I'm a normal person rather than a bird geek. To learn about bird geekery in Ireland, try http://www.birdwatchireland.ie/ .

I endorse irishface's recommendation of Fota Wildlife Park. See http://www.fotawildlife.ie/ .

A visit to Dublin Zoo was a childhood treat for me but later on I came to perceive it as an animal prison rather than a sanctuary. It has been extended and redeveloped in recent years and I understand that it is a great deal better now. I actually passed close to it yesterday evening with Herself, and we recognised that it is years since either of us has been there, so we put it on the list of things that we intend to visit in the short term -- but given our diaries, probably not soon enough to advise you.

We have another facility in Dublin that is known as "the dead zoo" -- the Natural History Museum. Unfortunately, structural problems were discovered, and it is closed for major works, and is out of commission for more than a year.

Hi JRKite,
Your trips sounds like it's coming along well.

We went to Skellig Michael and loved it for the birds. We were staying in Kenmare but I think you can reach it from the Dingle Peninsula as well.

We also went to the Giant's Causeway on our last trip and loved that too. I think NI has done a fantastic job with protecting the top of the cliffs and the trail. The top of the cliffs are barley fields, much loved by insects and birds, and the views are protected. So you hike for miles along the top with the fields on one side and the sea on the other. Very nice.

We've just been twice and each time we spent a week in one area and then a week in Donegal. The first time (2005) we stayed in Kenmare for a week, then drove up to Donegal for a second week. In 2006 we spent a week in Westport, then a week in Donegal (we like to rent cottages, hence the week stay.) I have a trip report under my name for the second trip. So I think it's not that hard to split your time between SW and north, it just means one long and lovely drive in between. No big deal.

Fortunately for bird lovers there are many coastal areas or islands with completely cool birds to watch. But I think the best is probably Skellig Michael - do check into that. Seeing a puffin dive into their nest and watching thousands of gannetts (sp?) up close was amazing and unforgettable.

Thanks Pad. I'm glad you aren't offended by my "geekery" comment.
Love that term. Can I use it???

The main reason I was wondering about the zoo was because of this major ovehaul, and the fact that it is the oldest European zoo. Lot of history of the industry over so many years.

Rose, thanks so much for your post. It was so helpful. I am going to look for your other travel log! The question I have is whether you flew roundtrip from Dublin, or did you fly openjaw? I already bought my ticket, and the roundtrip to Dublin was almost 200 bucks cheaper. Now I'm worried about the decision or if it is still feasible to get everything in...with some exceptions now of course.

JRK

annw...I am wondering if you would share with me the details of the trips you've taken using trains and taxis. My husband and I did an Ireland driving trip several years ago, and although it was wonderful, if we go again in the future, we will not drive. It was just too anxiety provoking for us. We have friends who would like for us to join them, but they don't want to drive either. An itinerary using trains and taxis would be terrific. If you wouldn't mind sharing yours, my email is mkdiebold@insightbb.com

Thanks!

JRKite, I am glad you have had the courage to rent a stick shift. I too have driven stick shifts all my life and have never found them a problem in Ireland. You do have to shift with your left hand, but the clutch, brake and gas are in the same order on your side as in the US. One thing, I have been tricked on is the location of reverse on the stick. Each model seems to have its own quirk. I got into difficulties in Scotland once and once in France, but seemed to do ok in Ireland, but wonder if it was the luck of the draw. After two aforementioned episodes, I always check out reverse before I leave the rental parking area.

Have fun!

Nice to see you Irishface!

Its funny, I was just thinking about that today about the floor pedals. That may have been a problem...at least till I hit the first hedge.

Didn't even consider the reverse. Thanks for the tip!!

JR

Hi JR,
We went a few years ago with a large family group & split between a self catering cottage x 1 week & 4 B&B's when we traveled south.
I'm used to paying with credit cards on vacation & my sister mentioned bringing along more cash at the last minute. I'm glad we did because many B&B's do not take credit cards. Just a little tip if it helps.
We were also driving 2 minivans which is quite challenging on those roads so we definitely needed a driver & a navigator (particularly the round abouts).

Hi JR,
I think you're fine flying in and out of Dublin. We flew in and out of Shannon simply because it was cheaper and we found more that interested us on the west coast. Have you made progress with your itinerary? I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

I had such a hard time our first trip. I bought a big road map, sat down with the guide books and when I saw something I thought was terrific, I put a little blue dot on the map. (Talk about geeky!) In the end it was clear where we had to go: Donegal and Kerry. Second trip was Donegal and Westport.

I think it's such a good decision to drive. My favorite memories are just as grouchywoman wrote - the lost roads.

I tried to find my old trip reports to paste links for you - couldn't find them, sorry!

Eileen's tip about most B&Bs taking only cash was a good one. Every couple of days I just withdrew from ATMs--never had a problem. I did talk to my bank about the debit card before I left.

JRKite,

As Irishface said use your ATM card for withdrawals from your checking account. Tell your bank when you'll be in Ireland and if you wish they can increase how much money you can take out at a time. I always used ATM machines in front of banks if I was taking out more than $200.
Have a great trip, Joan

Hi All,

Thats good to know about the B&Bs not always accepting credit. Thanks!

Rose, I too am having an extremely hard time deciding on my itinerary. I just bought a large fold out map yesterday, and am hoping that will help me start plotting my travels. Its a bit daunting to say the least.
I am noticing a trend on my must sees though as far as locals. I think this will make it much easier.

Wish me luck! I'll let you know what I come up with...couldn't plan this trip without all of you!

Hi JRKite -
I finally found my old trip report from North/Northwest Ireland. I was using a different name back then.

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?screen_name=McShane&fid=2

It has information on Westport, Donegal and the many day trips we took. It was such fun!

Whoops - that wasn't it either. Try this:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34667646

Hi Rose!

Thanks for the link, the trips sounded fantastic!!

I have pretty much completed my itinerary, and besides a daytrip from Dublin to Giants Causeway, looks like I'll be staying in the lower half of Ireland this time around. But NEXT time, I will definitely be doing the North.

Thanks so much for thinking of me.

Janessa

wanted to read this later for my trip next week, thanks!

JRKite - I don't know if you've booked your accomodation yet. There are some B&B's that have minimal "single supplement" charges. If you search hostelworld.com and http://www.guide-to-ireland.com/ you should be able to find a handful of B&B's with better rates for singles. The second website listed gave me better options. Hostelworld does feature B&Bs and guesthouses, and is better at telling you the cost up-front in Euros, Dollars, or Pounds. What I would do is research or price out the places you are interested in and contact each place directly to inquire about a single supplement or discount. I've been getting better rates going that route, and my trip is not until September.