You should definitely try to include the Bargello. And, if you can find time, (about an hour) try to get to the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. The small chapel in the palazzo has a beautiful mural - The Procession of the Magi - that has recently been restored and is quite beautiful.

A restaurant we like is the Osteria di Benci which is at the foot of the hill after you return from Piazzale Michelangelo on the Via di Benci very near Santa Croce.

Another vote for the Bargello, and a big vote for the Basilica di Santa Croce where the likes of Michelangelo, Galileo, Rossini, Machiavelli, Vasari and Ghiberti are buried, and others like Dante, Marconi and Fermi are honored with monuments. Santa Croce suffered some of the worst damage from the 1966 flood, and there is a column in the church that is marked to show how high the water rose.

Santa Maria Novella is definitely worth the trip! It's a bit out of the way, but you will be entranced by the wonderful scents and the products are truly special.

I also vote for the Bargello and the Basilica di Santa Croce, and after you tour the basilica, you'll be right next to the Gold Market which sells some very nice leather products at a good price. I have a jacket from there that still looks stylish 10 years on!

We enjoy walking around the city at night. The Piazza della Signoria always has something going on, and it looks beautiful lit up at night. Wander down by the Ponte Vecchio and enjoy the view of the river at night. If you're lucky you may happen upon a concert in an old church right near there--we heard the music as we walked by and just stood outside and listened.

You will love Florence! It's one of our favorite places.

First, I must thank you all for your thoughtful replies and recommendations.

Second, I have a few more questions

It sounds like a trip to the Bargello would be worthwhile, but I see they close before 14:00 (2pm). Am I reading that correctly?

Either way, I think we will plan to visit the Bargello on our last full day. How long should we expect to be there? Is there an audio guide at the Bargello, or an mp3 guide I can download beforehand? Also, do we need reservations?

@ mamaalice - thank you for the restaurant recommendation. We will certainly keep it on the short list. Also, thank you for the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi recommendation. I will definitely include that. I read here http://www.palazzo-medici.it/eng/info.htm that it closes at 19:00 and reservations are needed, does that sound right?

Our tour of the Accademia on the last day ends at 17:30. The Palazzo Medici-Riccardi is about a 5 minute walk from there (according to google maps), so I will try to make a reservation for 18:00.

@ Jean - When I originally read about Santa Croce I knew that was something I did not want to miss!

My original itinerary has us going right after our Uffizi tour ends at 15:45, but I see that Santa Croce closes at 17:30. Is that enough time? Is there usually a line to get in?

It appears to be about a 5 minute walk (according to google apparently everything is 5 minute walk, lol), but we may want to stop for a coffee or gelato or something.

@ cybertraveler - we definitely will walk around at night. That's one of my favorite things to do in any city. Cities always feel different to me (in a good way)at night

The Bargello closes at 2:00 pm, but special exhibits sometimes have extended hours. If you're staying in a hotel in Florence, have them find out the exact opening/closing hours for you. You can do this by email in advance of your arrival.

Santa Croce closes at 5:30 pm, and the last entrance is at 5:00 pm.

At the time of year of your visit, I don't know whether there will be lines and/or whether advance tickets or reservations are recommended for either the Bargello or Santa Croce. This is another question you can ask your hotel.

How much time you would need for either place depends on your interests. We love art, so spending a few hours in the Bargello would be easy to do, but it's not a large museum. You might want to peruse its website before you go:

http://www.firenzemusei.it/00_english/bargello/index.html

The time needed for Santa Croce would also depend on your interest in art. The various tombs and monuments can be viewed fairly quickly. FYI, I believe Cimabue's Crucifixion which became a symbol of survival for Florence following the 1966 flood has been moved from the refectory (as noted in the link below) to above the main altar.

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/florence-santa-croce

In your nighttime wanderings, don't skip Piazza della Repubblica. Also, we've attended several concerts at a very reasonable cost at a de-commissioned church a few blocks off Piazza della Repubblica on Via del Corso near Via della Studio. (Look for the four stone columns at the curb and the doors set back behind black wrought-iron gates.) In October, we've bought tickets in the afternoon for same-evening performances, but I don't know the situation in May. The musicians are professionals, teachers or talented students, and the instruments are often antiques.

Jean,

Thank you again. I will email my hotel for hours and reservations.

DH and I love music, so we'll be sure to check out Piazza Republicca and the former church you mentioned as well.

I would even skip the Accademia to make time for the Bargello (unless of course you absolutely HAVE to see the ORIGINAL David statue). And give yourself adequate time at Santa Croce to see (and appreciate) not just the basilica but the Pazzi Chapel, the Museum/refectory, the cloisters.

@autodidact - Yes, I MUST see the original David. I will still have time to see the Bargello though

Our plan is to head straight to Santa Croce from the Uffizi, so we should have an hour and a 1/2 there. If there is a long line we will try to go through the Leather School. Otherwise we can go early in the afternoon of our 3rd day (after touring the Bargello and Palazzo Medici-Riccardi in the morning).

Has anyone been to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi recently? The website provides an email address for tickets and bookings, but when I emailed they replied and said I don't need to make a reservation.

I'm hoping that I don't actually need a reservation, because I'd like to see the Bargello first (because it opens earlier) and then get to the Palazzo whenever we're finished. If anyone knows I would appreciate it.

Here's our revised itinerary:

May 18th:
Venice to Florence by train - arrive 11:30am
Check into Alloro B&B for 3 nights
2:30 - 4:30 Wine & Cheese tasting at Pitti Gola Wine Bar
San Miniato
Piazzale Michelangelo

May 19th:
9:15 - 12:15 Florence Walk with ArtViva (Duomo, Baptistry, Bell Tower, Piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio, ect.)
1:45 - 3:45 Uffizi Gallery tour with ArtViva
Santa Croce

May 20th:
8:15 - Bargello
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi

Afternoon:
Just enjoy Florence - Wander, shop, find a nice cafe, etc.
Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy
4:30 1-hour Accademia Tour

May 21st:
Leave for Monterosso

Great travel information. It appears that you planned meticulously. Hope you had a wonderful time. We leave for Paris in five days, then off to Venice, Verona, Florence and Rome.

Although you're not big art people, if you go to the Farmacia S.M. Novella, finding time to vist the church which is about a block away is really worthwhile. There is a sublime, major fresco cycle by Ghirlandaio (a young Michelangelo worked on this when he was an apprentice), a terrific altar, major DellaRobbia in the gift shop (not for sale ) and other really great masterpieces which you can see on just a quick stop of under an hour.
I also recommend the Bargello if you can work that in - I never found the time until my fourth (!) visit. Major Donatello statue of David and other great works (lots of ceramics, too). And, just expeiencing the fortress is pretty wonderful.

Restaurant recommendation-right on Piazza Santa Croce. Boccadama. Limited menu as it's really all about the wine but this is a very good place for that hunk of Florentine Chiana beef-mmm. http://boccadama.com/

Restaurant recommendation - Yellow Bar, Via del Proconsolo,39. Homemade pastas and pizza. Very near the Duomo and only open for dinner. Looks like a tourist trap - it is not. Noisy, casual, lots of locals, fun and really good food.

after you've toured the accademia, why not walk round the corner to the piazza san marco, and get the bus up to fiesole - the bus stop is one of the first ones you come to.

have a wander up to the monastery of san francesco, enjoy the views over Florence, have supper [we really liked the restaurant in the centre of the town] watch the sun set, and get the bus back down.

abendeck, here are my restaurant recommendations for Florence:

1. SOSTANZA!! The chicken breast dish is amazing, as is the artichoke hearts in eggs. May sound weird, but they were fantastic.
2. Glass of vino and a truffle panino at Procacci on Via Tornabuoni. Tiny place but the panino (the house specialty) was wonderful.

3. Dinner at Camillo Trattoria on Borgo S. Jacopo. We were there in the fall so we had amazing porcini dishes, but everything else looked fantastic. Great tiny space.

We only took about 30 minutes to go through the Accedemia - walked straight to David, drooled over him for about 20 minutes and we were done. Easy to get on art overload!

When you are at the Uffizi, stop at the roof-top cafe for some great views of the city.

Does the ArtViva walking tour include the interiors of the Duomo and Baptistry? If not, you'll want to come back to them at some point. IMO, both interiors are not to be missed. I would also climb the Duomo to the lantern if you have time. The views from the top are spectacular, and the climb provides an up-close view of how the dome is constructed.

Such great planning. I am bookmarking for a later read as we will be in Florence in October. Hope you don't mind.

Thank you all for the great recommendations. I wish we had more time in Florence, not only for the sights but for all the fabulous food!

I have to keep reminding myself that we will be back.

@Jean - The ArtViva tour does include the interior of the Duomo, but not the Babtistry. I read that the dome is open until 7pm, so we planned to climb the Duomo either after Santa Croce closes (5:30) on our 2nd day or before or after the Accademia on day 3 (if we don't get there on day 2). But I'm rethinking that strategy now…

<<Easy to get on art overload!>>

eck - That's what I'm worried about!

My original plan was to keep Day 3 pretty flexible after climbing the Dome in the morning (if we haven't gotten there yet). I know that is something we don't want to skip, because we would appreciate the architecture and view immensely (and because we'll have the most energy for the climb first thing in the morning).

Then, since no reservations are needed, we can decide if we feel like spending a few hours at the Bargello, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi or both. If we're already feeling a bit of art overload, we could skip one or both until next time.

Except for a visit to the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy, I am keeping the late morning/early afternoon open, before our Accademia tour, so we can decide what we feel like doing. We may be a bit burnt out and just decide to sit in a cafe an people watch! Either way, I am making a map (love Google Maps) listing all the possible sites you've all mentioned, so we can look at it, see what's nearby and decide if we want to go.

@annhig - Thank you for the idea about Fiesole. I will certainly consider doing that after the Accademia. I didn't think there was enough time to get there on this trip, but maybe there is

@ aussie10- of course I don't mind! I have learned so much from these boards, even before I registered to start posting and really getting into my detailed planning phase. I'm happy to contribute, and plan to post a trip report once we return.

IMO, the interior of the Baptistry is not to be missed. The gold mosaic ceiling makes it feel like stepping into a jewel box. It's open most days until 7:00 pm.

Re climbing the Duomo, you'd need to arrive by about 6:00 pm (M-F) or 5:00 pm (Saturday). (Not open on Sundays.) If you cut it too close, you'd better be good stair-climbers if you hope to reach the top.

http://www.operaduomo.firenze.it/english/opera/orari.asp?

Thanks Jean, I know there's a good chance we won't make it in the evening, that's why it would be priority in the morning on day 3. We'll certainly make it into the Babtistry at the end of day 2 if we don't get there in time for the Dome

Margaretlb on Apr 22, 11 at 2:19pm


Restaurant recommendation - Yellow Bar, Via del Proconsolo,39. Homemade pastas and pizza. Very near the Duomo and only open for dinner. Looks like a tourist trap - it is not. Noisy, casual, lots of locals, fun and really good food.


I would whole-heartedly echo this recommendation for the Yellow Bar.....

My brother's girlfriend (who lived in Florence) also recommended Yellow Bar. We'll certainly check it out. So many good places, so little time, if only I could move there for awhile...

With apologies in advance for lowering the cultural tone but we found the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum on via Tornabuoni an interesting departure from the high art of Florence.
Just shoes - but what shoes!
It's not far from the Pharmacia Santa Maria Novella and it stays open until 6pm.
Pitti Gola wine bar is excellent - you will enjoy it.

@SeeDee - Please don't apologize! I love shoes

I see that the museum has a reservations link, but I don't want to make a reservation. Do you know if reservations are required?

Cannot imagine any need for a reservation; the museum is located in the basement of the Ferragamo store so you can visit during store opening times.
It's one place where your credit card is safe - look but you cannot buy......

SeeDee, I am glad you brought up the Ferragamo museum. We visited when we were in Florence and I loved it! Absolutely no need for a reservation, we walked in, bought tickets and looked around. We were the only ones there almost the entire 30 minutes. REALLY nice restrooms, so be sure to use them while you are there!

Another great small museum that was very different was the Opificio Pietre Dure, the Museum of Precious Stones on Viale F. Strozzi. Amazing works of art made with precious stones that are very different than the usual museum pieces. I know we had a 9:00 a.m. appointment there, but I am not sure if reservations are required.

I second the recommendation for l'Opificio delle Pietre Dure, although we've only visited the site on Via Degli Alfani. No reservations needed there, and note the combined entry ticket with the Accademia:

http://www.firenzemusei.it/00_english/opificio/info.html

However, with only 3 days, the OP may be pressed to find time for this great little museum. I think you have to be pretty nutty (as I am) for commesso mosaics and tesserae.

Our favorite restaurant over the past forty years has been Buca Mario.